CHAPTER XXI

THE “GERMANIA” AND THE “HANSA”

As has been seen in the last chapter, Hall was first inspired to

enter upon the field of Arctic exploration by the loss of the

Franklin expedition, and we have, in consequence, abandoned the

true chronological order of events and dealt with his expedition

out of its place. We must now hark back to the year 1868, when Dr

Petermann, the famous German geographer, fitted out a small ship

called the _Germania_ for a voyage of discovery along the east coast

of Greenland, thus earning for himself the distinction of being the

first of his race to send out an expedition to the Polar regions.

Dr Petermann himself took no active part in the work, but entrusted

the command to Captain Karl Koldewey, an expert in maritime matters,

who had studied navigation at the Polytechnic school in Hanover, and

physics and astronomy at the University of Göttingen.

His first trip in the _Germania_, in which he was accompanied by

a small crew of only eleven men, was not attended by any very

remarkable results. Pack-ice frustrated his attempt to coast

northward along the shores of Greenland, and compelled him to set

his course eastward to the Spitzbergen seas, where he succeeded

in reaching the latitude of 81° 5′. He then turned back down the

Hinlopen Strait, and made his way to Bergen, where he arrived on the

last day of September.

His second expedition, which sailed in the following year, was

much more fully equipped, and on this occasion the _Germania_, a

screw-steamer of 140 tons, which was manned by a crew of seventeen

officers and men, was accompanied by the _Hansa_, a schooner of 76¾

tons, commanded by Captain Hegemann, and having fourteen officers and

men on board. As it was intended that this expedition should spend a

winter within the Arctic circle especial pains were expended upon the

commissariat department, and no better provisioned ships had ever set

out on a voyage of adventure.

For a while progress was slow, owing to the heavy gales which

prevailed during the latter half of the month. They pressed steadily

on, however, keeping well in company with one another, and at the

beginning of July the knowledge that they were now reaching the

higher latitudes was brought home to them by the fact that the

sun did not set until 10.15, and that it was possible to read the

smallest print at midnight without the aid of artificial light. A

few days later, when they were off the coast of Jan Mayen Island,

they saw the midnight sun for the first time, and Dr Borgen and Dr

Copeland—the latter an Englishman who had studied and worked in

Germany—embarked with increased ardour on that series of scientific

observations which was the most valuable result of the expedition.

It was soon after this that a misunderstanding occurred which

resulted in the two ships being separated for ever. They were sailing

along in company, searching for a passage through the ice which

would, it was hoped, extend far away to the north. Koldewey, wishing

to consult with Hegemann, signalled to him to come within hail, but

he, unfortunately, misunderstood the signal, and, setting more sail,

disappeared into the fog before Koldewey could follow him.

Separated from his consort, Hegemann did all that lay in his power

to reach Sabine Island, the appointed rendezvous in the event of

any accident of this nature. The weather, however, was against him,

and, try as he would, he could not succeed in approaching within

thirty-five nautical miles of his destination. The _Hansa_ now found

herself in serious difficulties. For many weeks she had been fighting

against the ice, which was rapidly hemming her in on every side, but

lack of steam power made it impossible for her either to reach Sabine

Island or to force her way through to the landward water which lay

along the coast. On September 6 her captain had no choice but to lay

her up between two promontories of a large ice-field, and on the

following day she was completely frozen in.

It was now, of course, obvious that the crew would have to spend the

winter where they were, and they instantly set about building a house

of coal bricks, of which they had an ample supply on board. These

formed an excellent building material, since they absorbed the damp

and kept the warmth in the room, while water and snow made a perfect

substitute for mortar. “We only needed,” says Hegemann, “to strew

finely-powdered snow between the grooves and cracks, pour water upon

it, and in ten minutes all was frozen into a strong compact mass.” So

well did the men work that the house was finished and provisioned

for two months in little more than a week.

They were not much too soon, for before the month was over the fate

of the unfortunate _Hansa_ was sealed. On October 8 a gale arose

which blew violently for several days. On the 18th, the ice began

to make itself conspicuous by “thrusting and pressing against the

ship. This unpleasant noise lasted until the afternoon. At regular

intervals underneath, the ice, like a succession of waves, groaned

and cracked, squashed and puffed; now sounding like the banging of

doors, now like many human voices raised against one another; and

lastly, like a drag on the wheel of a railway engine. The evident

immediate cause of this crushing was that our field had turned in

drifting, and was now pressed closer to the coast ice.... For a time

the _Hansa_ was spared, though trembling violently. The masts often

swayed so much that it seemed as though someone was climbing them.”

Worse, however, was to follow, for on the next day the pressure of

the ice became so terrible that the deck seams sprang and the bow

of the ship was forced upwards seventeen feet. “The rising of the

ship,” says Hegemann, “was an extraordinary and awful, yet splendid

spectacle, of which the whole crew were witnesses from the ice. In

all haste the clothing, nautical instruments, journals, and cards

were taken over to the landing bridge. The after part of the ship,

unfortunately, would not rise, and therefore the stern post had to

bear the most frightful pressure, and the conviction that the ship

must soon break up forced itself upon our minds.... The first thing

to be done was to bring all necessary and useful things from the

tween decks on to the ice—bedding, clothing, more provisions and

coal. Silently were all the heavy chests and barrels pushed over the

hatchway. First comes the weighty iron galley, then the two stoves

are happily hoisted over; their possession ensures us the enjoyment

of warm food, the heating of our coal house, and other matters

indispensable for a wintering on the floe. At three o’clock the water

in the cabin had reached the table, and all movable articles were

floating. The fear that we should not have enough fuel made us grasp

at every loose piece of wood and throw it on the ice. The sinking of

the ship was now almost imperceptible, it must have found support

on a tongue of ice or some promontory of our field. There was still

a small medicine chest and a few other things, which, in our future

position, would be great treasures, such as the cabin-lamp, books,

cigars, boxes of games, etc. The snow roof (with which the _Hansa_

had been equipped for the winter) and the sails were brought on to

the ice; but still all necessary work was not yet accomplished. Round

about the ship lay a chaotic mass of heterogeneous articles, and

groups of feeble rats struggling with death and trembling with the

cold!”

By degrees the crew got things in order and settled down for the

winter in their fairly comfortable though not particularly secure

abode. Occasionally they had a bad fright. On the afternoon of

January 2, for example, as they were resting after dinner, they

heard “a scraping, blustering, crackling, sawing, grating, and

jarring sound, as if some unhappy ghost was wandering under our

floe. Perplexed, we all jumped up and went out; we thought that our

store-house had fallen in. Some of the sailors, going in front

with the lamp, carefully searched the path to it. But in whatever

direction the light fell on the sparkling and glittering ice-walls

we saw nothing. Immovable hung the rigid icicles, often a foot long;

evidently nothing was amiss here. We rummaged in the snow path before

the house. Although completely snowed up (indeed, the whole house

was buried more than a foot deep in ice), we all rushed out, but, of

course, we could not see more than the steps, nor hear anything but

the howling of the storm. Still, between whiles, we could detect the

same rubbing and grinding. For a change we laid ourselves flat down,

with our ears to the floor, and could then hear a rustling like the

singing of ice when closely jammed, and as if water was running under

our great floe. There could be no doubt that it stood in great danger

of being smashed to pieces, either from drifting over sunken rocks

and bursting up, or breaking over the ice-border; perhaps both at

once. We packed our furs and filled our knapsacks with provisions.

Our position, if the floe should be destroyed, seemed hopeless.”

Next morning they found that huge masses of the floe in the

neighbourhood of the house had broken off, and, on the following

day, when the storm had cleared off and they were able to take a

careful survey of the situation, they discovered, to their horror,

that it was not half its former size. The distance from the house

to the edge of the ice, which was once 500 paces, was now only 200;

except on one side, where the distance, formerly 3000 paces, was now

diminished to 1000, while the diameter of the floe, which, before

the storm was two nautical miles, was now barely one. The worst,

however, was yet to come, for on January 11 splits appeared in the

immediate neighbourhood of the house, which so reduced the floe that

it soon measured only 150 feet in diameter, and on this frail raft

the unfortunate crew experienced one of the most terrific storms that

they had encountered. By a miracle they escaped with their lives, and

by the beginning of February their trials, which they had borne with

marvellous patience, were practically over.

During the whole of this time they had been drifting steadily south

within sight of the barren shore of Greenland, which, unfortunately,

the ice had never allowed them to reach. On May 7, however, the

sea cleared, and it need hardly be said that they seized gladly on

the opportunity of taking to their boats, in which they reached

Friedrichsthal on June 7. There they received a ready welcome from

the Moravian missionaries, and eventually secured a passage home from

Julianshaab, a seaport on the west coast of South Greenland.

In the meanwhile, Koldewey, after waiting some time for the _Hansa_,

was obliged by the approach of winter to find a harbour for his

ship off Pendulum Islands. In the spring he went out on a sledging

expedition with Payer, during the course of which he reached lat.

77° 01′, the highest point attained up till then on the east coast

of Greenland. While sailing home in the summer, he discovered the

magnificent Franz Josef Fiord, at the head of which Mount Petermann

rears its head to a height of at least 12,000 feet above the sea.

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