CHAPTER IX.

STEADY PROGRESS.

The "Principles of Geology" had been completed and published for

thirteen years, yet catastrophism, as we learn from a correspondence

with Edward Forbes,[116] dated September, 1846, was dying hard.

"Agassiz, Alcide D'Orbigny, and their followers [were still] trying to

make out sudden revolutions in organic life in support of equally

hypothetical catastrophes in the physical history of the globe."[117] A

remark in Forbes's reply is striking:--

"You are pleased to compliment my paper on its

_originality_. Any praise from you must ever be among the

greatest gratifications to me, and to any honest labourer in

the great field of Nature. But I had rather hear the views I

have set forward be proved _not original_ than the contrary.

It seems to me that the surest proof of the _truth_ of such

conclusions as I have summed up at the end of my essay is

the fact of their not being _original_ so far as _one_

person is concerned, and of their having become manifest to

_more than one_ mind, either about the same time or

successively, without communication. I believe laws discover

themselves to individuals, and not that individuals discover

laws. If a law have truth in it, many will see it about the

same time."

In this month also the Lyells removed from Hart Street to 11, Harley

Street. The house where they had spent fourteen years very happily was

not left without regret, but it had become too small. They had no

children, but a rapidly increasing geological collection takes up almost

as much room as (though it is much more silent than) a growing family.

The removal of a geological collection is a laborious business; and,

besides this, Lyell was preparing a new edition of the "Principles" and

writing a book about his recent travels in America. Still, to judge from

his letters, he found time for some pleasant social distractions; for

his letters to the old home at Kinnordy contain more often than formerly

interesting references to talks with such men as Macaulay, Milman, and

Rogers, Lord Clarendon and Lord Lansdowne. The seventh edition of the

"Principles," condensed into a bulky single volume, was published early

in 1847, and in the following June Lyell attended the meeting of the

British Association at Oxford, which appears to have been no less

pleasant than successful, although "out of twenty-four Heads of Houses

only four were at Oxford to receive the Association." On this occasion,

he writes, he became better acquainted with "Ruskin, who was secretary

of our Geological Section." The remainder of this summer was spent in

Scotland, and the rest of the year, with most of the following one, was

devoted to quiet work. Still, Lyell took an active part in a crisis

through which, about this time, the Royal Society was passing. A number

of the Fellows, including most of those eminent in science, were anxious

to raise the standard for admission into the Society. For many years

past the "three letters" had often signified little more than an

indication of good means and social position, coupled with a certain

interest in scientific pursuits. The reformers prevailed, after a long

struggle "with a set of obstructives compared with whom Metternich was

a progressive animal," and the present _status_ of the society is the

result. Incidental remarks in Lyell's letters to his relations also

indicate that he was becoming well known in circles other than

scientific, of which a further proof was given in the autumn of 1848,

when he received the offer of knighthood. Of course, in any country

where "orders of merit" exist, other than Great Britain, Lyell would

have been "decorated" years ago, but we manage things differently. As a

rule, we let science and literature be their own reward, and, as an

exception, confer the same distinction on a man who has won a world-wide

reputation (provided he is fairly rich) and on an opulent tradesman who

is accidently prominent on some auspicious occasion, or is a local

wirepuller in party politics. Lyell went over from Kinnordy to Balmoral

to receive the intended honour, and had, as he writes, "a most agreeable

geological exploring on the banks of the Dee, into which Prince Albert

entered with much spirit." In February, 1849, he was elected for the

second time President of the Geological Society, and in the autumn, when

at Kinnordy, was again invited to Balmoral, where he had some

interesting talks with Prince Albert on subjects ranging from various

educational and broad political questions to the entomology of

Switzerland, Scotland, and the Isle of Wight.

In the middle of September he attended the meeting of the British

Association at Birmingham, where he was for the third time President of

the Geological Section. A few weeks later his father, whose health had

been for some time failing, died at Kinnordy.[118] The latter was a

rich man, but as he made liberal provision for his daughters and younger

sons, Sir Charles, though he succeeded to a considerable estate, found

himself unable to afford the expense of keeping up Kinnordy as well as a

house in London. Which, then, was henceforth to be his home? The

attractions of Kinnordy were obvious, but the long distance from the

metropolis was a serious drawback, while the duties of a resident

landlord would have interfered much with his geological work, which

would have been still more hampered by the severance from libraries,

museums, and intercourse with fellow-workers. Thus he felt it his duty

to retain his house in London and to let Kinnordy, though, as his mother

and sisters retreated to the "dower house," he was able from time to

time to visit the old place. The decision probably was less painful than

it otherwise would have been from the fact that his boyhood had been

spent in England. At any rate, it was a wise one, in regard to both his

own reputation and the progress of science in general.

In the summer of 1850, Sir Charles augmented his experience and

refreshed old memories by a tour in Germany. During this he saw for the

first time the Roth-todt-liegende or Lower Permian conglomerates at

Halle and at Eisenach, as well as the great lava streams which had

supplied them with so much of their materials. Also he went to the

Brocken in order to examine into Von Buch's extraordinary assertion that

the granite had "come up in a bubble." This, it is needless to say, was

speedily pricked. The loess also, that singular deposit which wraps

like a mantle so much of the undulating ground in Northern Germany,

evidently engaged his attention, and we find the fruits of these studies

in a later work. In addition to all this, he did more than glance at the

Maestricht Chalk, the "Wealden" coal of Hanover, the Tertiary deposits

near Berlin, the Palaeozoic rocks of the Hartz, and the scenery of the

Saxon Switzerland.

His books, his scientific papers, and Presidential addresses to the

Geological Society, his duties as a commissioner, at first for the

Exhibition of 1851, and somewhat later for the reform of the University

of Oxford, kept him pretty well employed till August, 1852, when he for

the third time crossed the Atlantic to deliver another course of

lectures at the Lowell Institute, Boston. Though he was back in England

before Christmas, he found time for some geological work in America, the

most important item in which was an excursion from Halifax in company

with his old acquaintance, Mr. J. W. Dawson, to the Nova Scotian

coalfield. On this occasion he passed through a fair amount of country

still uncleared, which made the journey more interesting; he had also

opportunities of appreciating the effects of ice in moving and piling up

boulders on the shores of lakes, and obtained still more evidence in

regard to this, on reaching the sea-coast in the neighbourhood of the

coalfield. But their labour was rewarded by one discovery of exceptional

importance. In the trunk of a tree which had died and become hollow in a

forest of the Carboniferous period, they found entombed the skeleton of

an animal. Whether this were a fish or a reptile was at first hotly

disputed, but finally it proved to be an amphibian.

On his return to England, Sir Charles was kept for some time fully

employed by the preparation of the ninth edition of the "Principles,"

but early in the summer of 1853 he went for the fourth time to

America--on this occasion in company with Lord Ellesmere--as

commissioner to the Exhibition held at New York. But now his time was

fully taken up by official duties, and his visit was a short one, for he

returned before the end of July, and was soon afterwards invited to

visit Osborne and give some account of his journey to the Queen and

Prince Albert.

Very early in 1854 he again left England, in company with Lady Lyell and

Mr. and Mrs. Bunbury, to visit Madeira. Some three weeks were devoted to

a careful study of the geology of that island,[119] partly with the view

of determining whether it afforded any support to Von Buch's favourite

notion that volcanic cones were mainly formed by upheaval. As might be

anticipated, the evidence was distinctly unfavourable. The island was

proved to be mainly composed of volcanic material, cones of basaltic

scoria, and great flows of similar lava, which had been piled

successively one on another in the open air to a depth of about 4,000

feet. This mass had been subsequently pierced by dykes, worn by storm

and stream, and in one or two places deeply grooved by rivers. There

were, indeed, some underlying beds of marine origin, which, in one part

of the island, rose to a height of 1,200 feet above the sea, and thus

indicated a certain amount of upheaval; but even this was not of the

kind which Von Buch's hypothesis required, while the rest of the

evidence, including that afforded by some tuffs containing fossil

plants, proved that the major part of the island had been formed above

water.

From Madeira they went on to Teneriffe, Palma, and the Grand Canary. Of

this part of the journey few details are given, but the results were

afterwards incorporated with one of his books.[120] To the Peak of

Teneriffe the reference is comparatively brief. Of Palma the account is

much fuller, for this island had been regarded by Von Buch, who visited

it in 1825, as a type of his "craters of elevation"--an idea which was

dispelled by Lyell's investigation. The Grand Canary, like Madeira,

proved to be formed of masses of subaerial volcanic rock, perhaps even

thicker than those in Madeira, which also rested upon some upraised

marine deposits of Miocene age.

In the course of 1854 Sir Charles received from his own University the

honorary degree of D.C.L. Much time was spent in working up the results

of his last journey, some of which were communicated to the Geological

Society.[121] In the spring of 1855 he went to the Continent, studying,

among other matters, the drifts in the neighbourhood of Berlin. In the

summer he visited Scotland, made the acquaintance of Hugh Miller, worked

over Arthur's Seat, Blackford Hill, and "the coast of Fife from Kinghorn

to Kirkcaldy." It would be hard to find a set of sections better

adapted for the study of ancient volcanic rocks, both contemporaneous

and intrusive, than this coast affords; and his experience in Madeira

and the Canaries enabled him to regard "the Edinburgh and Fife rocks

with very different eyes."

One or two of his published letters about this period have a special

interest, for they show that his views on the origin of species were

undergoing a gradual modification. Speaking of some strange variations

in the flower of an orchideous plant,[122] he refers, half in jest, to

"ugly facts, as Hooker, clinging (like me) to the orthodox faith, calls

these and other abnormal vagaries"; and again, the following sentences

do not come from a man who is firm in his belief[123]:--

"When Huxley, Hooker, and Wollaston were at Darwin's last

week, they (all four of them) ran a tilt against species

further, I believe, than they are deliberately prepared to

go--Wollaston least unorthodox. I cannot easily see how they

can go so far, and not embrace the whole Lamarckian

doctrine. Huxley held forth last week about the oxlip, which

he says is unknown on the Continent. If we had met with it

in Madeira and nowhere else, or the cowslip, should we not

have voted them true species? Darwin finds, among his

fifteen varieties of the common pigeon, three good genera

and about fifteen good species, according to the received

mode of species and genus-making of the best ornithologists,

and the bony skeleton varying with the rest! After all, did

we not come from an ourang, seeing that man is of the Old

World, and not from the American type of anthropomorphous

mammalia?"

Sir Charles and Lady Lyell were again on the Continent in the summer of

1856, examining the drifts of Northern Germany, visiting Humboldt at

Berlin, discussing geological questions, especially in regard to

Carboniferous plants, at Breslau with Roemer and Goeppert; working over

the Riesengebirge; then going on to Dresden, and passing through the

Saxon Switzerland to Aussig. The coalfield north-west of the former city

was not neglected, the great breccia beds of the Rothliegende were again

examined, and account was taken of Ramsay's opinion that certain British

Permian breccias were glacial in origin. Close attention was also

bestowed upon the great masses of hard quartzose grit, through which the

Elbe has carved its way--the Quader of Saxony; for this formation, "a

grit wholly deficient in calcareous matter, corresponds to the more

purely calcareous rock (Chalk) of Great Britain, and yet contains here

and there the same shells." He did not neglect the Brown Coal[124]

between Toeplitz and Aussig, and, on reaching Prague, made the

acquaintance of Barrande, who took him to see those older Palaeozoic

rocks among which the great palaeontologist had been labouring for nearly

a quarter of a century. Then the travellers proceeded to Vienna, and

after that to the Styrian Alps, to visit various interesting sections in

the Salzkammergut, such as the classic ground at Gosau and the Triassic

limestones near Hallstadt, where the last survivors of the Palaeozoic

ages are entombed with the representatives of the period. His letters,

like many others of earlier date, indicate that, notwithstanding the

fascinations of geology, neither living molluscs, nor insects, nor

plants had ceased to interest. They returned by way of Munich, Ulm,

Zuerich and Paris, reaching England about the end of October.

The summer of 1857 was devoted to another Continental tour, rather more

restricted than the former, but by no means unimportant. They went

leisurely through Belgium and up the Rhine into Switzerland, halting at

different places either to study sections of special interest or to

confer with eminent geologists. Part of a letter written at this

time[125] gives a valuable insight into the intention of these journeys

and the character of the author, who was now in his sixtieth year:--

"I hope to continue for years travelling, making original

observations, and, above all, going to school to the

younger, but not, for all that, young geologists, whom I

meet everywhere, so far ahead of us old stagers that they

are familiar with branches of the science, fast rising into

importance, which were not thought of when I first began."

Switzerland, obviously, was visited on this occasion with a very

definite purpose. De Charpentier, Escher von der Linth, and other local

geologists, had been for some time asserting that the glaciers of the

Alps, at no remote epoch in geological history, had attained to an

enormous size, had buried the Swiss lowland and covered it with morainic

deposits, and had even welled up high against the flanks of the Jura,

where the huge blocks of protogine from the Mont Blanc range--such as

Pierre a bot and its companion erratics, full 800 feet above the Lake of

Neuchatel--indicated one position of its terminal moraine. Formerly, in

common with many other geologists, Sir Charles had supposed these blocks

to have been transported from the Alpine peaks by ice-rafts on the sea,

at a time when the whole region stood at a considerably lower level. But

now, after examining the erratics, their regular and significant

distribution, the other glacial debris, the ice-worn surfaces of rock

beneath it, and ascertaining the distinctly terrestrial character of the

deposits all about the mountains, he unreservedly admitted land-ice to

be the only possible agent, and, in accepting this hypothesis, perceived

clearly that he must not shrink from applying it to Scotland. Then he

plunged into the mountains to examine and follow the track of the

retreating ice-sheet up to the glaciers which are still at work among

the higher peaks, passing up the valley of the Reuss, crossing the Furka

Pass, and descending the Rhone valley to Visp, but turning aside to

examine the earth pillars on the flank of the Eggishorn.[126] Another,

and a larger group of these pillars--instances of the erosive action of

rain-water on morainic material--was seen near Stalden, in the

Visp-thal; but these had been damaged by the earthquake which two years

before had severely shaken this part of the Alps. At Zermatt the

characteristics of glaciers and the effects of ice were carefully

studied among the grandest of Alpine scenery; then, on returning to the

Rhone Valley, they crossed the Alps by the Simplon and went on to Turin.

Here he took the opportunity of visiting the huge moraine near Ivrea,

which rises from the lowland like a range of hills, and of

investigating the erratics of the Superga, satisfying himself that they

really belonged to the Miocene deposits of that hill, and were

indicative of the existence of glaciers in the Alps of that epoch, which

had been large enough to reach the sea-level, and to send off masses of

ice laden with boulders. Then they went on to Genoa, and along the

beautiful Riviera di Levante to Pisa; thence, after a short visit to

Florence, proceeding direct from Leghorn to Naples. Here, he once more

examined Vesuvius, and had the luck to see lava streams actually in

motion--"some going fast, others going very slow"--a sight which "gave

him many new ideas." A study also of the dykes of Somma convinced him

that they afforded no support to De Beaumont's idea of a distension of

the mass.[127]

From Naples he went to Sicily, in order to make a second examination of

Etna, and then, after rejoining Lady Lyell, spent some time in the

neighbourhood of Rome, visiting the old volcanic district of the Alban

Hills, and making excursions, as they travelled northward, into the

Apennines. They returned through France, reaching London towards the end

of December.

But, for a worker so thorough in his methods, this visit to the

volcanoes was not enough, so next year, after spending the earlier part

of the summer with his brother's[128] family in the neighbourhood of

Darmstadt, he left Lady Lyell there, and set off towards the end of

August for a third examination both of Vesuvius and of Etna. Travelling

rapidly up the valley of the Rhine, he went by Geneva to Culoz, and over

Mont Cenis to Turin and Genoa, without halting for geological work, and

thence by sea to Naples. Lava was still flowing from Vesuvius, that

black mass, with its strange rope-like folds and slaggy wrinkles,[129]

now so well known to every visitor. Accompanied by Professor

Guiscardi--one of the most genial and helpful of leaders--Sir Charles

made his way to a vent at the base of the principal cone, where the lava

was still welling forth from "a small grotto, looking as fluid as water

where it first issued, and moving at a pace which you would call rapid

in a river. White-hot, at first, in a canal four or five feet broad,

then red before it had got on a yard, then in a few feet beginning to be

covered by a dark scum, which thickened fast and was carried along on

the surface." But the great question, whether a volcano was mainly a

"crater of elevation" or a "crater of ejection," was ever present to his

mind; so, in addition to studying the grand sections displayed in the

crags of Monte Somma, he devoted two days to the exploration of the

ravines which furrow its outer slopes. He also found time to have

another look at the Temple of Serapis, and to examine the Solfatara,

which is a striking example of a crater at once broad and low.

After a week's halt at Naples, Sir Charles resumed his journey to

Sicily, landing at Messina on September 10th. By the 15th he was once

more on the slopes of Etna, and had begun a twelve-day period of hard

work on the mountain, passing five nights in very rough quarters at the

Casa degli Inglesi, 9,600 feet above sea-level. During this stay he

ascended the principal cone, carefully examining both the larger and the

smaller craters, and descended into the Val del Bove, a laborious

expedition, but one which well repaid him by throwing much light on the

structure of the volcanic mass. Still he was not yet satisfied, for

after he had descended to Zafarana, he returned to spend another night

at the Casa degli Inglesi in order to satisfy himself about one or two

details. From Zafarana also he went again to the Val del Bove, checking

and increasing his notes, and devoted another day to a most interesting

excursion through picturesque scenery as far as the watershed between

this vast hollow in the mountain side and the neighbouring Val di

Tripodo. On all these excursions Sir Charles, as far as possible, rode,

remarking to his wife, "I feel here that a good mule is like presenting

an old geologist with a young pair of legs." Work on the mountain ended,

he spent a little time in examining the Tertiary beds of the

neighbouring lowland, and then, getting back to Messina about the middle

of October, returned in due course to England.

These two journeys in succession greatly augmented his knowledge of the

structure of volcanic cones, and enabled him to deal the death-blow to

the "crater of elevation" hypothesis which had found such favour among

Continental geologists. He could now prove that lava would solidify in a

compact form on slopes of thirty-five or even forty degrees--a fact

which had been stoutly denied by advocates of that hypothesis, and was

able to offer an explanation of the singular structure of the Val del

Bove, viz. that it was a huge gulf, formed by a series of mighty

explosions, similar to those which shattered half of the old crater of

Vesuvius,[130] and sent one side of Bandai San[131] flying through the

air. He returned to England satisfied that his feet were on firm ground,

if such a phrase be permissible in regard to a volcano, and that the

results[132] of this conscientious labour in the fulness of his age had

strengthened him in the position which he had adopted in his scientific

youth.

In the next year (1859) Lyell also travelled, though the journeys were

not so lengthy as their two predecessors. Still, in the spring he

visited both Holland and Le Puy in Auvergne, and in the earlier part of

the autumn attended the meeting of the British Association at Aberdeen,

under the presidency of Prince Albert. A strong body of geologists were

present, and Lyell was for the fourth time in the chair of the

Geological Section, the Prince coming to hear his address. Among the old

friends whom he met was one who would have been a suitable husband for

the famous Countess of Desmond, for Lyell writes of him to Mrs. Horner,

his wife's mother, "Dr. F. at ninety-four looks well enough, but having

eaten turtle-soup, and melon too close to the rind, and other

imprudences, is not quite well to-day!" _O dura Doctorum ilia!_ The

meeting ended, Lyell with some geological friends went off to Elgin to

examine the sandstone quarried at Cutties Hillock, near that town. The

rock closely resembles the ordinary Old Red Sandstone; it seemed at

first sight to form a continuous mass, yet in one place it contained a

fossil fish belonging to that period, and in another the remains of a

reptile (_Telerpeton_). After some days of careful study, the Rev. W. S.

Symonds, who was one of the party, came to the conclusion (which has

been fully ratified by later investigations) that the deposits were of

different ages; the one with the fish being truly "Old Red," the other,

with the reptile, "New Red." The chief cause of the puzzle is that the

sand which has been derived from the older rock has gone to form the

newer one, and that the usual indications of a discontinuity are

practically absent. It affords a valuable caution, for it shows that

Nature sometimes does set traps, which might well catch even the most

wary geologist.

In the same autumn Lyell read Darwin's great work on "The Origin of

Species," by which his scientific position was finally determined, for

his letters show that, if any objection to the leading principles in his

friend's views had still lingered in his mind, they were overcome by the

perusal of this masterly specimen "of close reasoning and long sustained

argument."

FOOTNOTES:

[116] In reference to an essay written by him on the connection between

the fauna and flora of the British Isles and geological changes.

("Memoirs of the Geological Survey," i. p. 336.)

[117] Life, Letters, and Journals, vol ii. p. 110.

[118] He died November 8th, 1849.

[119] He had the advantage of the company of Mr. C. Hartung, who was an

excellent naturalist and well acquainted with the island.

[120] "Elements of Geology" (sixth edition), pp. 621-635.

[121] "On the Geology of Some Parts of Madeira" (Quart. Jour. Geol.

Soc., x. p. 325).

[122] In a letter to Mr. Bunbury, dated November 13th, 1854 (Life,

Letters, and Journals, vol. ii. p. 199). It is written from 53, Harley

Street, one in the previous August bearing the superscription of 11,

Harley Street, so that he appears (though there is no allusion to this

in his published letters or journals) to have removed into another house

in the same street. The number of this was subsequently altered.

[123] Another letter to Mr. Bunbury, dated April 30th, 1856 (_ibid._, p.

212).

[124] This deposit belongs to the Tertiary era (Oligocene system).

[125] Life, Letters, and Journals, ii. p. 243.

[126] The largest, called the Zwerglithurn, is about one and a half

hours walk above Viesch.

[127] This had been asserted in support of the hypothesis of "craters of

elevation."

[128] Colonel Lyell had retired from the army and returned to England a

short time before the outbreak of the Indian Mutiny.

[129] _See_ Professor J. W. Judd: "Volcanoes" (International Scientific

Series), Fig. 22.

[130] In the famous eruption of A.D. 79.

[131] A volcano of Japan.

[132] These results are worked into the tenth edition of the

"Principles" (chaps. xxv. and xxvi.). _See also_ a paper on Stony Lava

on Steep Slopes of Etna (Proc. Roy. Soc. 1858, ix. p. 248). He received

the Copley Medal from the Royal Society in November.

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