After entering the Parana, the voyager sails for hundreds of miles up
the mighty stream between lofty clay-banks of a red colour; sometimes
absolutely perpendicular, and at others consisting of broken masses
covered with cacti and mimosa-trees. Here and there may be seen,
projecting from the cliffs, huge skeletons of the toxodon, megatherium,
mylodon, and other monsters which once in countless numbers inhabited
the plains of South America. Now the river expands into lake-like
proportions, its surface dotted with numerous low and wooded islands.
At intervals, towns, villages, or forts may be seen on the summits of
the cliffs, sixty feet above the water. Generally the country on the
western side is a level, treeless plain; but as the river is ascended
woods appear, which gradually become thicker, presenting, as further
progress is made, more and more a tropical character.
As Paraguay is approached, low flat banks appear, which for many a long
league are marshy and impassable. It is the district of the Esteros, as
these flooded lands are called. Beyond them, in the wet season, immense
shallow lakes are formed; but when they are dried-up in the hot weather,
a grey dusty soil, full of cracks, and covered with wiry grass and low
shrubs, is left. Nothing can be more dreary than the appearance of the
country when the river is high; the water extending far and wide beyond
its crumbling banks, with rows of melancholy palms standing as landmarks
above the flood. These districts are, however, valuable for grazing
purposes; and before the war were covered by vast herds of cattle, now
swept away. Above the Tebiquari the country is higher and more
diversified. Vast woods, increasing in breadth and density, appear,
with ranges of distant hills beyond them.