Returning again to the east coast, about the latitude of Chesapeake Bay
and Cape Hatteras, we find a low level region known as the Atlantic
plain, running parallel to the coast, on which the long-leaved or
peach-pines flourish. This region is generally called the Pine Barrens.
Wild vines encircle the trees, and among them are seen the white
berries of the mistletoe. In winter these Pine Barrens retain much of
their verdure, and constitute one of the marked features of the country.
Amid them are numerous swamps or morasses. One of great size,
extending to not less than forty miles from north to south, and
twenty-five in its greatest width, is called the Great Dismal Swamp.
The soil, black as in a peat-bog, is covered with all kinds of aquatic
trees and shrubs; yet, strange to say, instead of being lower than the
level of the surrounding country, it is in the centre higher than
towards its margin; indeed, from three sides of the swamp the waters
actually flow into different rivers at a considerable rate. Probably
the centre of the morass is not less than twelve feet above the flat
country around it. Here and there some ridges of dry land appear, like
low islands, above the general surface. On the west, however, the
ground is higher, and streams flow into the swamp, but they are free
from sediment, and consequently bring down no liquid mire to add to its
substance. The soil is formed completely of vegetable matter, without
any admixture of earthy particles. In many even of the softest parts
juniper-trees stand firmly fixed by their long tap roots, affording a
dark shade, beneath which numerous ferns, reeds, and shrubs, together
with a thick carpet of mosses, flourish, protected from the rays of the
sun. Here and there also large cedars and other deciduous trees have
grown up. The black soil formed beneath, increased by the rotting
vegetation, is quite unlike the peat of Europe, as the plants become so
decayed as to leave no traces of organisation. Frequently the trees are
overthrown, and numbers are found lying beneath the surface of the soil,
where, covered with water, they never decompose. So completely
preserved are they, that they are frequently sawn up into planks. In
one part of the Dismal Swamp there is a lake seven miles in length, and
more than five wide, with a forest growing on its banks. The water is
transparent, though tinged with a pale brown colour, and contains
numerous fish. The region is inhabited by a number of bears, who climb
the trees in search of acorns and gumberries, breaking off the boughs of
the oaks in order to obtain the acorns; these bears also kill hogs, and
even cows. Occasionally a solitary wolf is seen prowling over the
morass, and wild cats also clamber amid its woods. Even in summer, the
air, instead of being hot and pestiferous, is especially cool, the
evaporation continually going on in the wet spongy soil generating an
atmosphere resembling that of a region considerably elevated above the
level of the ocean. Canals have been cut through this swamp. They are
shaded by tall trees, their branches almost joining across, and throwing
a dark shade on the water, which itself looks almost black, and adds to
the gloom of the region. Emerging from one of these avenues into the
bright sunlit lake, the aspect of the scenery is like that of some
beautiful fairyland.