THE NORTH PART OF CORNEWALE.

Fro Stratton, not very far from the hedde of Tamar, to Padstow, the

contery by the north se ys rather hylle then montaynenius, and is very

fertile of gras and corne. And the clives of the sayd northe se,

betwne the places aforesayd, hath good fyne blew slates, apt for howse

kyveryng, and also hath diverse vaynes of leade and other metalles not

yet knowen.

Also abowt Camelford ar certen old mynes, wrought yn tymes past, but

of what metalle yt ys now onknowen. Withyn a myle above that poore

village sowth, runneth the ryver that goyth ynto the Severn Se at

Paddistow, and it is the greatest ryver on the north side of

Cornewale, and ys cawled yn the commune spech there Dunmere, and yn

the Kyngges grawnt of privilege to the Chanons of Bodmynne, and the

burgeses of the same towne, Alan, yt may fortune for Alaune. Sum

historyes cawl it Cablan. By this ryver Arture fawght his last field,

yn token whereof the people fynd there yn plowyng, bones and harneys.

Wythyn iiii. myles of the sayd Camylford, apon the north clif ys

_Tintagel_, the which castel had be lykekod iii. wardes, wherof ii. be

woren away with gulfyng yn of the se, insomuch that yt hath made ther

almost an isle, and no way ys to enter ynto hyt now but by long elme

trees layde for a bryge; so that now withoute the isle rennith alonly

a gate howse a walle, and a fals braye dyged and wallid. In the isle

remayne old walles, and in the est part of the same, the ground beyng

lower, remayneth a walle embateled, and men alyve saw theryn a postern

dore of yren. Ther is in the isle a prety chapel, with a tumbe on the

left syde. Ther ys also yn the isle a welle, and ny by the same ys a

place hewen owt of the stony grownd to the length and brede of a man.

Also ther remayneth yn the isle a grownd quadrant-walled as yt were a

garden plot. And by this walle appere the ruines of a vault. The

ground of this isle now nuryshyth shepe and conys.

_Paddistow_, a haven towne of one paroch of fysscher men, wher shyppes

cum not yn but at the flowyng water. The grownd by the se cost from

Paddestow to Saynct Anne’s Hille, wheron ys no maner of buylding, the

ground sumwhat hilly ys fruteful of corn and gresse, but with lytle

tynne.

In the est part of Paddestow haven be ii ―――― [ro]kketes that ―――― yth

se ――――. The est ―――― ys cawled ―――― tyre, and so ys the land that

lyeth agaynst yt.

Apon an viii myles from Paddestou ys a lytle howse of canons secular,

cawled _Crantoke_.

Fro Sainct Anne’s Hil to _Lanant_, a village, the contery by the north

se ys sumwhat hilly, sanday, and baren, and yn sundery places of the

same, wel replenyshed with tynne.

By Conarton cummith a rywer, cawllid Dour Conor, and goith to the se,

not far from Lanant ryver mouth.

From Lanant by the north se to _S. Just_, alias _Justinian_, wher ys

no thyng but a paroch chirch and divers sparkeled [_i. e._ scattered]

howses at the west poynt of the shore, cawlid ――――.

In the mouth of the ryver that cummyth by Lanant ys the rokket

Godryve, wheryn bredith se fowle.

The ground ys but baren, but yt hath yn divers places good tynne

warkes.

By al the north se yn Cornewale be sundry crekes, wher as smawle

fisshers’ bootes be drawne up to dry land, and yn fayr wether the

inhabitans fysche with the same.

At Paddestow Haven, Lanant, and S. Ives, the balinggars and shyppes ar

saved and kept for al weders with keyes or peres.

_Dosmery Poole_, stonding yn the east part of the same, sumwhat toward

the sowth, is of lenght by estimation ii. arow shottes, and of bredth

one, stonding on a hille, yn the est part of the which poole ys a vale

of xiiii. or xv. fadome depe by estimation, and owt of this poole

issueth a ryver, the which runnyng by the space of a myle and a dim.

ys of ii. fadome deep, and is cawled Depe Hatche. Looke wher he

issueth ynto the se.

Also yn the sayd hilly grownd and mooresch be redde deere, the wich

when they be schafed take the sayde poole for soyle.

Ther be of the _Isles of Scylley_ CXLVII, that bare gresse (besyde

blynd rokkettes) and they be by estimation a xxx myles from the west

part of Cornewale. In the byggest isle of the Scylleys, cawled S.

Nicholas Isle, ys a litle pyle or fortres, and a paroch chyrche, that

a monke of Tavestoke yn peace doth serve as a membre to Tavestoke

Abbay. Ther be yn that paroch abowt a lx. howseholdes. Ther is one

isle of the Scylleys cawled Rat Isle, yn the which be so many rattes,

that yf horse or any other lyving beast be browght thyther they devore

hym. Ther is another cawled Bovy Isle. Ther is another cawled

Inisschawe, that is to sey the Isle of Elder, by cause it berith

stynkkyng elders. There be wild bores or swyne.

From S. Just to Newlin eastward the grownd ys sumwhat hilly and

fertyle of gresse, with tynne werkes both weete and dry, without havyn

or creeke, savyng yn dyvers places ther remayne capstaynes, lyke

engins as shyppes doth way ther ancres by, wherwith they draw ther

bootes up to dry land, and fisch but yn fayr wether.

Also yn the sowth-west poynt betwyxt S. Just and Newlyn ys a poynt or

a promontory almost envyronid with the se, wheryn ys nothyng but as yt

were a hil enclustered with rokkes as yt had bene yn tymes past a

castel, (Castel Treuyne) and for the declaration therof there remayne

yet toward the land ii. wardes clene fawllen downe, but the stones of

them remayne ther very fayre and well quadrated. The ruine of the

fortelet yn the poynt ys at thys day a hold irrecuperable for the fox.

Ther lyith betwixt the sowth west and Newlyn a myle or more off the

se, _S. Buryens_, a sanctuary, wherby, as nere to the chyrch, be not

above viii. dwellyng howses. Ther longeth to S. Buryens a deane and a

few prebendarys, that almost be nether [never?] ther. And S. Buryens

ys a iiii. myles fro the very sowth-west poynt.

_Newlin_ ys a poore fischar towne, and hath alonly a key for shippes

and bootes, with a lytle socur of land water. Within a arow shoot of

the sayd key or pere, lyith directly a lytle low island, with a chapel

yn yt. And this lytle islet bereth gresse.

_Mowsehole_ ys a praty fyschar town yn the west part of Montes-bay,

lying hard by the shoore, and hath no savegarde for shyppes, but a

forced pere. Also yn the bay be est the same towne ys a good roode for

shyppes, cawled Gnaves Lake.

_Pensants_, abowt a myle fro Mowsehole, stonding fast in the shore of

Mont-bay, ys the westest market towne of al Cornwayle, and no socur

for botes or shyppes, but a forsed pere or key. Ther is but a chapel

yn the sayd towne as ys yn Newlyn. For theyr paroche chyrches be more

then a myle off.

_Marhasdeythyou_, [_Marketjew_,] alias _forum Jovis_, ys a fischar

towne, with a market, and standeth fast apon the shore of the bay,

directly agaynst the foote of S. Michael’s Mont northward.

In Marhasdeythyow ys but a poore chapel yn the mydde of the poore

town, and a lytle chapel yn the sand nere by the towne toward the

Mont. Be the west end of the towne ys a lake, or a _rivulus_, the

hedde wherof risith withyn a myle of Lanant northwordde fro

Marhesdeythyou. Betwyxt the hedd of this _rivulus_ and the nerest part

of the ryver of Heyle, that cummeth yn to the se at Lanant is not a

myle. And the grownd of bred [breadth] betwene the ful se marke at

_forum Jovis_, and the ful se marke of Lanant ryver, is not ii. myles.

The cumpace of the roote of the mont of _S. Michael_ is not dim. myle

abowt. The sowth-sowth-est part of the mont is pasturable and breedith

conys. The resydue hy and rokky. In the north-north-est ys a garden

with certen howses with shoppes for fischar men. The way to the

chyrche enteryth at the north syd from half heb to half fludde to the

foote of the mont, and so ascendeth by steppes and greces westward,

and thens returneth estward to the utter ward of the chyrch. Withyn

the sayd ward is a court strongly walled, wheryn on the sowth syde is

the chapel of S. Michael, and yn the east syde a chapel of our Lady.

The capytaynes and prestes lodginges be yn the sowth syde, and the

west of S. Mich. chapel. The Mont is enclosid with the se fro dim.

flud to dim. ebbe; otherwyse men may cum to the Mont afoote. Ther be

found from the inward part of the ―――― yvers ―――― re stones ―――― wes

and ―――― ois v miles ―――― the se. In the bay betwyxt the Mont and

Pensants be fownd neere the lowe-water marke rootes of trees yn dyvers

places, as a token of the grownde wasted. The cumpace of the bay ys

from Lyzart poynt to Newlyn abowt a xx. myles.

Wythyn iii. myles of Lyzart Poynt ys a lytle isle withyn the bay,

cawled _Inispriuen_, and conteyneth ii. acres of grownd, wheryn be

byrddes and conies. The ground fro Newlin to Loo Poole by the sowth se

ys not very fertile, but hath good tynne workes. Fro the poynt of

Lyzart to Hayleford haven the grownd is fertile of corn and gresse by

the sowth se. Also wythyn iii. myles of the sowth se betwene Haylford

and the est syde of Montes-bay is a wyld moore, cawled _Gunhilly_, i.

e. hilly hethe, wher ys brood of catayle. Also yn the west syde of the

poynt of Hayleford haven, and withyn the land of Meneke or Menegland,

is a paroch chirch of _S. Keveryn_, otherwis Piranus; and ther is a

sanctuary with x. or xii. dwelling howses, and therby was a sel [cell]

of monkes, but now goon home to ther hed hows. The ruines of the

monastery yet remenith.

Wythyn ii myles of the hedde of the ful se marke of Heyle ryver ys

_Heylston_, a market town, withyn the which ther is a cowrt for the

coynage of tynne kept twys yn the yeer. Yn the town is both a chapel

and a paroch, and yet apperith in the town _vestigia castelli_ yn the

west part. And a ryver runnyng under the same _vestigia_ of the castel

yssueth toward the sowthe see, stopped ther with sowth-est wyndes

casting up sandes maketh a poole cawled Loo, of an arow shot yn brede,

and a ii. myle in cumpas yn the somer; in the wynter, by reason of

fluddes, flowing to Heylston toun; wherby the mylles ner Heylston

beyng stopped, men be constrayned to cut the sandy banke betwyxt the

mowth of the poole and the se, wherby the water may have yssne, and

the mylles grynd, by the which gut so opened, the se floweth and

ebbeth yn to the poole, wherby se fysch enteryng with a sowth-est

winde ys closed yn the poole, the gut beyng agayn choked and fylled

with sand, and so after taken with trowtes and eles drawen yn the same

poole.

The cowntery fro Newlyn to Heylston ys meetely fertyle of gresse and

corn, and plentuus of tynne by the sowth se. Fro the mowthe of

Heylford to Falemuth be water ys iiii. myles.

_Falemuth_ ys a havyn very notable and famose, and yn a maner the most

principale of al Britayne; for the chanel of the entre hath be space

of ii. myles ynto the land xiiii. fadum of depes, which communely ys

caullyd Caryk-rood, by cawse yt ys a sure herboro for the greatest

shyppes that travayle be the ocean. At the entre of the haven lyith a

blynd roke covered at ful see nerer the west side of the haven then

the east, cawled Caregroyne, i. e. _Insula vel rupes potius vitulorum

marinorum_, alias Seeles. Seles when they cast theyr calves, they cum

to lond, and lay theyr _fœtum_ in a dry banke, the which they may com

to, and ther they suffer theyr _fœtum_ to tary a whyle or they bring

hym to the se. In the est syde of the sayde haven entereth a creek

flowing by the space of ii. myles ynto land, and ys fed at the hedde

with fresche water. Apon the sowthe syde of this creke ys a selle

longing to the howse of Plymton, cawled _S. Antony’s_, having but ii.

chanous. On the very north shoore of the sayd creeke towardo the

havyn’s mowth ys a poor fischar village, called _S. Mausa_, alias la

Vausa; and nygh to this village toward the same haven ys a fortelet

lately buylded by the contery for the defens of the haven. In the west

syde of the haven is a creeke that flowith up fro the haven’s mowth

ynto the land above iii. myles, at the very hedd of the which standeth

a prety town of marchandyse and vytayle market. Withyn the towne ys a

colleg wel walled and dyked defensabley cawled S. Thomas, wher be

seculer chanons and a provost. Also yn the towne ys a chapel, and a

quarter of a myle owt of the town ys the paroch chyrch; also viii.

myles and more above the sayd haven’s mowth is a market towne

est-north-est, cawled _Trureu_, wheryn is a mayre, and also coynag for

tynne, with a paroch chyrch and a blake freers. Also on the sowth-est

syde, at the hedde of the olde ful-se marke of Falemuth, is a market

toune xii myles. and more up ynto land, cawled _Tregoney_, wheryn is

an old castel and a paroch chyrch of S. James, standing in a more by

the castel, also a ch[apel?] standing yn the myddes of the towne; and

at the est end of the town a paroch chyrche.

_S. Austol’s_, a poore village with a paroche chyrch, is vi. myles

east fro Tregoney.

_Trewardreth_ Bay hath at the hedde on the est side a poore village

with a paroche chyrch, and a priory yn the same town of Cluny monkes.

From Falemuth to Trewardreth by the sowth se the ground is metely

fertyle of corn and gresse, and no tyn werkes from Falemuth to Dudman

Foreland.

In the mydde way betwene Falemuth and Dudman is an islet or roke

beryng gresse, cawled _Grefe_, a ii. acres about, but standyng yn the

myddes torring upright. Ther bredeth yn the isle se fowle.

Fro Dudman Foreland to Trewardreth, the contre sumwhat baren of gresse

and corne, and replenishid with tynne werkes, with vaynes yn the se

clyves of coper. From Trewardreth to Fowey town ys ii. myles. Bytwene

thes townes by the sowth se ther is plenty of corn and gresse, but no

tynne werkes.

The town of _Fowey_ ys a market town, walled defensably to the se

cost, and hath gates also. Yn the town is but one chyrche, but the

howses of the towne be well buylded of stone and yl enhabited. Also at

the entery of the haven on the west syd is a blokke howse and a chapel

of S. Catarine, be the same. Also ther is on the same syd a towre with

ordenans for defens of the haven.

On the west syde, a ii. myles up yn the haven, ys a fyssher towne

cawled _Gullant_.

At the hedd of the ful se marke of this haven, and a quarter of a mile

more, is the toune of _Lostwhythyel_, havyng a market, and ys the

shyre towne of Cornewal. For ther the shyre is kept by the shryfe ons

yn the moneth. Also at this town is quynag of tynne twys a yere. And

by the shyre hawle appere ruines of auncyent buyldinges. It is

evydently knowen that yt hath flowed to Lostwhythiel; but the spuing

of the sandes of the tynne werkes hath stoppe yt now. The litle rownd

castel of _Restormel_ standith in the kinges parke ny to Lostwithiel.

At the est syde of the haven’s mowth of Fowey stondith a towr for the

defens therof, and a chapel of S. Savyor a lytle above the same. Ny by

the sayd towr standith a fysshar village, cawled _Polruan_.

A myle beyond Polruen on the est syde of the same haven, stondith a

poore fisshar village, caullid _Bodennek_, Ther is the passage or

_trajectus_ to Fowey.

ii. myles above Bodennek ynto the land northward is a creke apon the

north syde, wheryn ys a sel of ii. blake monkes of Montegu, and is

dedicat to S. Sirice and Julit.

By est the haven of Fowey apon a iiii. myles ys a smawle creke, cawled

_Poul Pier_, and a symple and poore village apon the est syde of the

same, of fisshar men, and the bootes ther fishing by, saved by a peere

or key.

In the est syde also of this Poul Pyrre, ii. myles of, is another

creke cawled Loow, being but a tyde creke. For at low water benethe

the bridge a man may both wade and ryde over in the somer. Ther is on

eyther side of this smaule creke a smaule fissher villag hard on the

se shore, the one cawlled _Est_ and the other _West Loow_, Est Loowe

being a market towne, and yn eyther of them a chapel. Also yn the

sayde creekes mouth, neere sumwhat to the sowthe-west, is a lowe isle

cauled S. Nicholas Isle, not a quarter of a myle far the mayn shore,

and conteyneth a vi. or viii. acres in cumpace, and fedeth shepe and

conies, nurishing also broode of se byrdes. Ther is a bridg sumwhat

above thes ii. vyllages of x. or xii. stone arches, over the which men

passe when the se ys yn.

Fro Fowey haven to Lowe creeke the grownd ny the see syde ys very

fertile of corne and gresse, and no tynne werkes.

From Loowe Creke to Tamar ys a xii. myles toward the towne of

Plymmuth. Yn the west syde of Tamar, withyn iii. myles of the haven

muth of Tamar, is a symple fisshar towne called _Mylbrooke_. Also apon

another creke west of the sayd ryver, and nerer up, is a towne cawled

_S. Germayns_, wherin is now a priori of Blake Chanons, and a paroche

chirche yn the body of the same. Beside the hye altare of the same

priory on the right hand ys a tumbe in the walle with an image of a

bishop; and over the tumbe a xi. bishops paynted with their names and

verses as token of so many bishoppes biried there, or that ther had

beene so many bishoppes of Cornwalle that had theyr seete theer. And

at this day the bishop of Exceter hathe a place cauled Cudden Beke,

joyning hard apon the sowth-est side of the same toun.

North-est of S. Germaynes, vi. myles apon the ryver of Tamar, is a

market town cawled _Asshe_. And neere to the same, westward withyn ii.

myles, ys a rownd castel of the kinges, cawled _Trematon_, as a man

showld say the secund forteres on Tamar. At the towne of Asshe is a

passage or fery of a quarter of a myle over.

Also ii. myles fro Asshe northward ynto the land is a smaul village

cawled _Caregrin_. Est of this is Bere Parke and hous in Devonshire,

dividid from Caregrin _tantum Tamara_.

From Low to Tamar by the sowth se the grownd is fertile of corn and

gresse, but withowt tynne warkes.

_Launston_, otherwys cawlled Lostephan, yn old tyme cawlled Dunevet,

stondith ii. myles beyownd Powlston Bridge on Tamar westward. The

sayde town Dunevet, otherwise Lawnston, is a walled towne ny yn cumpas

a myle, but now ruinus. On the north side of the towne a castel

stonding on a hye hille withyn the sayd towne, hath iii. rownde

wardes. Part of the castel stonding northwest, ys parcel of the walle

of the town. Ther be withyn this town iii. gates and a postern; also a

gate to go owt of the castel ynto the old parke. Sum gentelmen of

Cornewal hold ther landes by castel-gard, that ys to say for

reparation of this castel and towne; and withyn this castel ys a

chapel, and a hawle for syses and sessions, for a commune gayle for al

Cornwayle is yn this castel. Withyn this towne is a market, a mayre

and burgesses, with a chapel of Mary Magdalen to theyr uses.

In a vale at the foote of the hil of the sayde town, abowt an arow

shot fro the castel northward, is a priory of chanons regular dedicate

to St. Stephan.

North-est, almost half a myle of the sayde priory, is a lytle village

apon a hille, and a paroche chirche of _S. Stephen_ yn yt. The opinion

is that the chanons first dwelled on this hille, and cam thens downe

to a better and a warmer site. In the priory chirche yarde standeth

also a paroche chyrche.

The wall of Dunevet ys hy, larg, and strong, and defensably set.

By the north side of the priory runneth a litle ryver.

In Dunevet be ii. conduites of derived water.

[44] Again noticed thus: “Ther lay buryed before the high

altare in a high tumbe of a very darkesche gray marble, one

Thomas Veviane, Prior of Bodmyn and Suffragane _Megarerutis

Episcopus_. He dyed not long sins,” Vol. iii. fol. 1.

[45] In the margin are the following notes on the Arundells:

“Humfre Arundale, a man of mene landes, brother to old

Arundale of Lanheron.

“Humfre Arundale, a man of mene landes, nephew to Arundale.

“Sir John Arundale, sun and heir to Arundale of Lanheron.

“Syr Thomas Arundale, brother to Sir John.

“―――― Arundal, brother to Syr John and Thomas, hath land of

his father’s ――――e.

“Arundale, of ―――― in Falmuth haven, cum out of the house of

Lanheron. Cariehayes, where Trevagnion now dwellith, was

once the Arundalles.”

[46] In the margin are the following notes on the Vivians:

“Vivian’s grandfather was a man of mene land.

“Vivian’s father was a galant Courtier set forth by Somerset

Lord Herbert.

“Vivian now being heir, hath sum more land then his father

had, and yet he hath scant an hunderith markes by yere.

“This Vivian hath an uncle, a lawier, a man of mene landes.

“The heir of the eldest house of the Vivians is now lord of

Tredine Castelle at the southe-west pointe of Cornewal.

“There was found, _in hominum memoria_, digging for the fox,

a brase [pot] ful of Roman mony.”

[47] Market-jew or Marazion.

[48] In a side note “Cenor, and of sum caullid Kenor, ubi

pauca vel nulla vestigia.”

[49] That is, fed or supplied: as a fire was fed with

_betars_.

[50] Leland repeats this statement: “Thomas Treury _now

living_ made a blocke house on S. Catarine’s Hill bottome.”

Hearne’s edit. vol. iii. p. 34, note.

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