OF MY ARRIVING AT SURAT, AND OF THE POSTURE OF AFFAIRS THERE.
The other vessels coming in that same evening, we left Tangier the
next day, and continued in company our voyage along the Africk coast.
And although we caught sight not once nor twice of the galleys of
those pirates that infest these waters, yet they dared not attempt us,
seeing our force, and we had opportunity to admire the strange things
that met our view. For in these climates there is many things are not
as they are with us, as the sea and the weather and the length of day,
and the very stars themselves, not to speak of the poor heathens that
boarded us more than once, more especially off the colony of the
Gamboa.[13] And on crossing of the Line, moreover we were made
initiate in those mysteries which, as I suppose, are a relic of
antique superstition, but which the seamen do hug mightily; yea, even
the wisest among ’em. In all these matters, then, was there much to
instruct us, and our good master and his mate were always willing to
tell us whatever we desired. But as we drew further to the south, and
neared again the temperate climates, and in especial as we passed that
cape called by the Portugals _Bon Esperanzo_,[14] where the Dutch
have a few forts, we were assailed by such storms as we were like to
have left our bones in the South Seas. Also the continual tossing and
rolling of the ship did bring on again, both in Mr Spender and myself,
such an access of that dread malady whereof we had dreamed ourselves
cured, as we could do little else but lie and groan, desiring that
death which seemed at once too close to us and too far away. But when
we had left well behind us that evil and dangerous Cape, and were
entered the Indian Ocean, the which we found, in our traversing it,
prodigious still and pleasant, we revived, and did begin to look
forward with great anticipation to our arriving in East India.
Now during this part of our voyage the nights were extreme clear and
mild, so that I was wont to stay long upon the deck with Captain
Freeman, who, as he smoked his pipe, would tell me many strange tales.
For one thing, he told me of the mermaids in the Eastern Seas, whereof
he himself had seen one, sitting on a rock and combing her long hair,
and likewise of the dolphins and other monsters of the deep. Likewise
he told me of the wild men of the woods, whereof (said he) he had seen
many in the great islands, but all at a distance, and also of the
anthropophagi or man-eaters, of which he had never seen none, but had
heard of them from the most respectable persons. Of tigers, also, and
crocodiles, and great serpents, he told me much, especially with
regard to the empire of Birma and the eastern islands. And passing to
the islands of Japan, he spoke much of the Japanners, that are a
marvellous polite[15] people, and mighty inquisitive concerning
strangers, but so cruel and barbarous as could never be imagined. Two
emperors they have, whereof one may never be seen by the vulgar, and
as many princes, lords and grandees, as they could furnish forth even
Spain with ’em. But into their country may none travel, neither
merchant nor Jesuit missionary, nor even visit their ports, excepting
only the Dutch, and these must needs, when they come thither, abide on
one small island, whither their merchandises are brought them for to
load their ships withal. And if I should tell you all that Captain
Freeman told me concerning the manners and aspect of the inhabitants
of the great city Cangoxima,[16] methinks you should set him down as
a worse liar than Seignior Ferdinando Mendez Pinto himself, the which
should be grievously unjust, seeing that he had visited these parts
and this city as a lad in a ship of Holland, wherefore I will say
naught on’t. Of China and the Chineses, likewise, our good master
spake much, but this also I will not put down, lest I should have
confused therewith other matters I learned later from divers
shipmasters at Surat. But this I may say, that all this talk of mine
with Captain Freeman was wont to end in one way--viz., that when the
captain was through with his pipe and his tale, clapping me on the
shoulder, “Master Ned” (he would say), “when you list to make a
venture, come and sail with me to the eastwards, and I will put you in
the way of such markets and bargains as none but the Company’s
captains knows on.”
Now truly this prospect was in no way displeasant to me, but I little
dreamed that I should ever make a voyage eastwards (though never such
a short one) with Captain Freeman. And having now sailed northwards
for a great while, and passed, at an inconvenient distance, that fair
island called Ceilon,[17] the which I had a great desire to see, we
come near to our port. And to me, who had thought Surat to be on the
sea-shore, ’twas a most monstrous surprise to find that we must needs
cast anchor in Swally[18] Road, and from thence find means to get
ourselves conveyed to the town, the which stands at some small
distance up the river Taptee. But this delay was by no means
displeasing to us, for there was many strange things and persons to be
seen, such as we admired mightily.
And we reaching the shore in the master’s boat, and paying the tax of
half a rupee that was demanded from each passenger, found there Mr
Spender’s cousin, the Secretary, that was come to fetch him in an
_hackery_, which is an Indian coach drawn by two white oxen. But since
Mr Spender made no offer to present me to Mr Secretary, and I cared
little to force myself upon this gentleman’s notice, I was left
desolate, defending my trunks against a rout of swarthy rascals, both
Moors and Gentues,[19] that fought with one another, and would have
carried off my baggage before my eyes, had I so suffered it. But at
last Captain Freeman, coming on shore and finding me contending with
these fellows at great odds, from my having no knowledge of the
Indostan tongue, and much incommoded with the great heat of the sun,
was very wroth against Mr Spender, and made haste to call to my help a
gentleman that was walking to the landing-place, bearing a great white
_umbrello_ over his head for to shield him from the sun. And by great
good fortune, who should this gentleman be but Mr Martin, one of the
Company’s senior factors, to whom I had a letter wrote from Dr
Ruthven? He received me with great kindness, and made haste to hire
certain of the troublesome rogues for to carry my trunks to his
hackery, and bade me take my place therein, and so carried me to the
city, after bidding farewell to my good friend Captain Freeman. Dr
Ruthven had assured me that I should be much pleased with Mr Martin,
and in truth, in that short space of our journey together I did
discover him to be a person of most varied and ingenious learning, and
so full of proverbs and wise sayings as I had never imagined could be.
Coming, then, to the gate of Surat, we must needs pass through the
Custom-house, where the customers[20] are so strict that they must
perforce search in all my pockets as well as my trunks and mails. And
this done, we went on into the city, Mr Martin displaying to me divers
strange sights, until we come to the Factory, which is a large and
fair house, builded after the Moorish fashion, and well defended by
great walls.
And being arrived, Mr Martin was so good as to say that if I would, he
would make interest for me to be under him in the business, and to lie
in the chamber next to him of nights. And of this offer when I had
gratefully accepted, I had my trunks brought to the place he shewed
me, and was assigned a Gentue servant for to wait upon me, and was
carried by Mr Martin to view the whole of the Factory. Which Factory
is, as I have said, a great house, given to the English many years
since by the king of Guzeratta, but whereto they have added
go-downs[21] and storehouses, built on hired land. And the house
itself is built after the Indian mode, of two storeys, and the upper
and lower rooms opening on two long galleries, the floors being of the
best cement, and near half a yard thick, all this for the sake of
coolness. The walls are part of stone and part of timber, whereof the
last is adorned with tolerable carvings, after their heathenish
fashion. There is a neat oratory, or chapel, where divine service is
held twice in the day, and on Sundays three times, and a convenient
dining-room, open on all sides, but shaded at the top, wherein all the
Company’s servants do eat together, being placed according to their
degree in the service. The President’s rooms are very finely
furnished, in part after the Oriental style, and Mr Secretary’s are
likewise decent and comely enough, close to which was Mr Spender’s
chamber. And we happening upon the President about this time, Mr
Martin did present me to his honour, and ask his leave to keep me
under him, which his honour was pleased to grant. And on that same
evening, Mr Martin carried me to the garden belonging to the English,
which is situated without the town, and should have been very fair and
pleasant but for the doings whereof I will tell you. For as Mr Martin
and I rid to the garden, he discovered to me all the trials and
troubles wherefrom this poor town and Factory had lately suffered,
which I will set down, that so you may perceive in what an evil case
was his majesty’s poor subjects in Surat at this time.
Now first you must know that near the whole of East India (and now,
for aught I know, the entire country) is subject to the Moors, that
are akin to the Scythian Tartars, and come from the north, and the
chiefest nation of these Moors is called the Moguls. And the ruler of
these Moguls is a mighty emperor, that hath his court in the great
cities of Agra and Dhilly,[22] and reigns there with such
magnificence as no sovereign of Europe can equal, far less surpass.
And the emperor when I came to Surat, and that is still (in 1697)
reigning, was the great Auren Zeeb,[23] said by the Moors to be so
wise and just as no prince hath been since Solomon, and by the Gentues
the most cruel and tyrannical ruler that did ever oppress a nation for
its sins. Now of these Gentues, the most warlike and bravest tribe is
that called the Morattys,[24] dwelling in a province named, so far as
I can spell it, Moruchtraw.[25] And of this province the boundaries
are uncertain, but it lies in great part in the kingdom of Guzeratta.
The Morattys are said by some to be a most bloodthirsty and
treacherous people, but ’twould ill become me to indorse this opinion
without more strict inquiry, since it hath pleased God by their means
to give me great deliverance, and this not once only, as I shall shew
hereafter in its place.
Now these Morattys had at this time a great king, or chief, by name
Seva Gi,[26] son to a famous captain of the king of Visiapour’s,[27]
called Shaw Gi, surnamed the Bounceloe,[28] from the caste or family
whereto he belonged, and his mother was descended from the ancient
kings of that country. He, rising up against the king of Visiapour,
defeated and murdered by treachery Abdul Caun[29] his general, and
had thereafter great success, taking many considerable places, even
fortified towns, so that at one time he was master both of Duccan and
also of Conchon,[30] which is the rugged country lying between the
mountains and the sea. But neither he nor any leader of the Morattys
hath ever been able to retain his hold on the plain country, but hath
always been forced to seek refuge again in the hills, which, indeed,
is the native land of the Moratty, where he is most at home. Now with
such craft and subtilty did this Seva Gi go to work, that he was able
for some years to maintain his peace with the Mogul emperor, while all
the while warring with him that should have been his ally--viz., the
king of Visiapour. It may well be that the mighty Auren Zeeb felt no
grief to see two powerful princes destroying the one the other, and he
did observe the fighting with no small diversion, calling the said
Seva Gi his Mountain-rat, because he must needs retreat always to the
hills. Now with regard to the town of Surat, I must premise that there
is set over it on the behalf of the Great Mogul a governor, whose
government is a byword among all the Europe merchants for its
injustice. But whatever may be this person’s iniquities, he is, at the
least, faithful to his master, and spurned all the offers made him
from Seva Gi, that he should take his part. Wherefore Seva Gi made a
road[31] into the place, and took and plundered the town, holding it
for six days, and taking from it a prodigious booty. But the English,
being retired into their Factory, and using that for a citadel, did
show so fierce a front, and upon occasion defend themselves so
bravely, as Seva Gi was forced to leave ’em in peace. But their fair
garden, lying, as I have said, outside of the city, was overrun and
ruined, and was not yet recovered when I first saw it, all this
happening but shortly before my coming.
“But pray, sir,” says I to Mr Martin, “how can you have any comfort of
life, knowing that you are all the time placed between an unjust
governor and a murderous robber?”
“_Beggers should be no chusers_, sir,” quoth Mr Martin. “Sure we are
in better case here than under the eye of the Inquisition at Goa, or
even than quarrelling with my Lord Malbery[32] and the king’s
officers at Bombaim.”[33]
“At the least you are your own masters here, sir,” says I.
“Not so fast, if you please, sir,” says he. “Not many months ago were
we held under grievous oppression by the Dutch, that would have us
acknowledge ’em to be lords of the Eastern Seas. Not being contented
with the most injurious conduct towards ourselves, they must needs
hoist their ancient[34] above our St George’s cross, as though we
were surrendered to ’em. And not a warship had we for to defend us
against their injuries. Had they but had Old Noll to deal withal, he
should have punished ’em first and made ’em ask pardon after.”
“I trust, sir, that you an’t regretting the most fortunate death of
that rebel?” said I. Mr Martin looked upon me jestingly.
“_He that hath an ill name is half-hanged_, an’t he?” said he. “Old
Noll was a rebel, sir, but the Dutch feared him as the very devil.”
While thus discoursing, we walked to and fro in the garden, wherein
had stood divers _choultries_, or summer-houses, very pleasant to take
the air within, but now heaps of ruins, together with grottoes of many
fantastical forms, and fountains, whereof the sound and the coolness
was mighty agreeable. But the wildness of the place surprised me
(though now I know that the Indian gardeners do not affect neatness
and symmetry of arrangement, as do ours), nor had the ruins been
cleared away, but the flowers were springing and growing up around
them. And of the flowers themselves was nothing extraordinary, but
only mallows and stocks and jessamines and suchlike common things, for
so cursed with idleness are the lower sort here, that they won’t take
the trouble even to grow roses. Nevertheless, this garden is a mighty
pretty and pleasant place, and were it only better dressed and kept,
might be a very paradise.
And we returning to the Factory, Mr Martin pointed out to me the
English burying-ground, wherein are many monuments of extreme
elegance, and likewise the Dutch Factory, where were many stout
_mynheers_, that showed us, on our passing them, no more courtesy than
they need. Likewise Mr Martin bade me note the devastation wrought in
the city by that freebooter Seva Gi, so that the great walls were in
part broken down, and many fine mansions laid in ruins, and the houses
of the poorer sort almost all destroyed, though being but of mud and
stubble, they were fast beginning to build ’em up again. And moreover,
Mr Martin told me of one John Smith, who, being captured by Seva Gi’s
ruffians before he could escape into the Factory, was carried before
their prince himself, and heard him give orders for the beheading of
divers, both Moors and Gentues, that would not declare where their
treasures was hid. Upon this J. Smith fell into a great fear and
trembling, but God did graciously incline towards him the heart of the
king, so that on the advice of one of the chief Brachmines,[35] his
ministers, he let him go, and I myself have both seen and talked with
him many times.
We were now returned into the town, and this being the hour at which
all do take the air, we met with most of the Company’s servants then
in Surat, some riding on fine Arabian horses (these brought, as Mr
Martin informed me, by sea from Juddah),[36] but the most part borne
in _palenkeens_, which is a kind of coach without wheels, and carried
on men’s shoulders, the which seemed to me a very womanish manner of
going abroad, but I now know that the heat do make it very agreeable.
Passing the Mint, which is an extreme handsome piece of building, we
come to the cloth-bazar, which is like one of our markets, but held
all the year round. And in the High Street, which I had looked to see
a noble and stately place, I found only mean houses, with the shops
like peddlars’ stalls with us. And coming back to the Factory, we made
ready for supper, where I saw all the gentlemen that served the
Company at this place. And mighty strange it seemed to me, that all
were dressed in white, for to avoid the heat of the sun, though
keeping the English fashion. Now at the supper itself was all the
meats served on plate of China,[37] that, as they say, cracks when
any poison touches it, which is, without doubt, providentially
ordained for the sake of the dwellers in this land, where poisoning is
so common. And besides this magnificence, behind each man’s seat there
stood an Indian servant with a great fan of peacocks’ feathers, which
was waved about for to cool the air. And such ceremony was observed in
the bringing in and removing the many dishes as I had never thought
could be anywhere, short of a king’s palace. But with all this state,
the gentlemen showed themselves very affable towards me, and Mr Martin
presenting me to one or two, we had much pleasant and witty discourse.
And so at last to bed, being well tired by all that I had seen and
done that day, but found it prodigious hard to sleep, through being
plagued by those villainous insects called _muskeetoes_, the which
abound in these parts.
Then the next day I began to learn how the Company’s business was
carried on. But instead of the English going into the public markets
for to buy, as I had thought, I found that they made use of Gentue
merchants, called _banyans_,[38] that act as brokers, and after
buying up their wares from the Indians, bring them to the Factory.
These men are of a smiling and agreeable countenance and extreme
respectful in their manners, wearing white linen raiment of a strange
and womanish fashion. And although the Indostans generally are very
square in all their dealings, and prodigious exact to make good all
their engagements, yet these _banyans_ are extreme cunning, and do
contrive to gain for themselves so much from their transactions with
their countrymen on the Company’s behalf, as they are counted among
the most considerable persons of the place. And I not knowing their
tongue, my duty was only to write at Mr Martin’s dictation, and do my
best to improve myself. And when work was over, Mr Martin was again
good enough to take me riding with him in his hackery, and to inform
me on many matters. And I expressing my surprise that where so many
gentlemen, and some of them of a good age, was gathered together,
there should be none married, so far as appeared, Mr Martin saith--
“The proverb, sir, tells us, _He is happie that is wed, and without
trouble_, but he that weds here is like to have trouble. For what
gentlewoman of good family and fortune should choose to leave all she
might have in England, and adventure herself in the Indies? ’Tis true
that the Company desires its servants to be settled in life, and sends
out women for ’em to marry, but you may guess what manner of creatures
they would be, that would come out on such a chance; and moreover they
are also sickly and soon die, whether from the evil nature of the
climate, or from too much drinking of strong waters. Wherefore certain
of the gentlemen here have wedded Indian or Portuguese wenches, and
keep ’em shut up after the fashion of the country, never eating with
’em, and seeing ’em but when none else is by. But of such matches as
these is great trouble arisen, in especial regarding the children that
spring from ’em, when the mothers be Papists. It seems to me,
therefore, that they are wisest that determine while in the Indies to
devote themselves to their work alone, and postpone all such delights
until the time of their return.”
“As I shall,” said I.
“What, you have made up your mind so soon, Mr Carlyon?” says he. “You
an’t yet wedded, surely?”
“I am troth-plight, sir,” says I, and told him that which you know
already--viz., my engagement with my little cousin Dorothy. When I had
ended my tale, Mr Martin smiled upon me.
“_All shall be well, and Jacke shall have Gill_,” quoth he. “I honour
your resolution, sir, and shall take it extreme unkind in you if I
ben’t asked to the wedding, always supposing that I am in England
then.”
“That wise saw of yours is mighty comforting, sir,” says I.
“Say you so?” says he. “Then what do you think of this one, sir, _Age
and wedlocke lames man and beast_?”
I saw that he was jesting with me, but ’twas impossible for me to take
offence, so kindly and sweet-tempered a person was he, and that
friendship which was begun upon my landing at Surat hath continued
ever since, to my much advantage. For although the Company hath made,
and doth still make, many rules and advices for the better governing
of the younger among its servants, yet rules are not always kept, and
more than once hath Mr Martin brought me out of some trouble into
which I was fallen, either through the natural heat of youth, or
through the ill offices of Mr Spender.
For our life at Surat, there was in it always an admirable good order.
We all ate in company, saving only the snack taken on rising for to
comfort the stomach. Many of the gentlemen for this lunch[39] drank
burnt wine, made hot with cinnamons and other spice, but I always
followed Mr Martin’s advice, who told me that so much wine-drinking
was like to breed fevers and other disorders. For himself, he was wont
to drink _thé_[40] (the which is now well known in England, but then
only to those in our factories in the Indies), and I did likewise,
seeing that this herb doth much benefit the health both of the mind
and the body by the operation of a certain temperate heat that is
particular[41] to’t, and hath been observed by many curious
travellers.
This life of ours in company, where so many persons of divers humours
and originals were gathered together, made it necessary that all our
behaviour should be civil and respectful, and this towards our chief
and the chaplain in especial. The gentleman that occupied this last
place was commonly a person of excellent parts and wise discourse,
while his pay was higher than that even of the senior factors, and his
precedence was fixed next after the Members of Council,--a station
contrasting happily with the treatment accorded in these days to many
parsons in England.
On Fridays was there an assembly held by Mr President, whereto the
chief merchants of the other factories was used to come, and whereat
much sack was drunk, and also _palepuntz_,[42] a drink compounded by
the factors out of _acquavitæ_,[43] rosewater, sugar, and the juice
of lemons, and one that has, I believe, been brought by some of them
into England. But at the shipping-time was there small opportunity for
such gaieties, for all day long was the _banyans_ coming in with their
accounts, and below in the courtyard the packers and warehouse-keepers
must needs be looked after, and the merchants seen and spoken with
that had brought musters[44] of their goods. More than once, also, I
had the advantage to go with Mr Martin a journey among the towns and
villages of the vicinage, when he must oversee the weavers of cotton
fabrics, buying up the yarn from the spinners and intrusting it to the
said weavers, that so they might have wherewith to occupy themselves
during the rains. Nor was I idle when ’twas neither shipping-time nor
occasion for a journey, for, learning from Mr Martin that the Company
did furnish a master for to teach to the writers the tongues of the
country, and did promise also an annuity unto such as learnt them
well, but that few ever gained this, I applied myself to this study,
so that I gat a fair knowledge both of the Persian and the
Indostan[45] languages, and received the promised annuity. And this
to my no small contentment, although his honour the President, being
worked upon by Mr Secretary, was ill-pleased that he must give it to
me and not to Mr Spender, that would never learn nothing that he could
by any means avoid.
Now in these first years that I spent in Surat was many great things
happening, both at home and also in the Indies. The first whereof I
won’t recount, as knowing and hearing little of them; but of the
latter I may mention that that famous Moratty prince, Seva Gi, of whom
I have before spoke, being attempted[46] by the whole power of the
emperor Auren Zeeb, submitted himself and made his peace, and was
kindly received and his demands granted, so as he dared even adventure
himself in the city of Dhilly itself, on a visit to that great prince.
But here he quickly discovered himself to have been entrapped, for the
Mountain-rat was not accustomed to the ways of courts, and did quarrel
grievously with the emperor’s ministers. Having thus offended Auren
Zeeb, he found he was almost a prisoner, and must needs bend his wits
to the getting safely out of the place. And this he did by a stratagem
so cool and so ingenious as caused all that heard on’t to admire, and
one that I myself did imitate thereafter, as you shall in due time
hear. For having sent away his soldiers, and feigning himself to be
sick, he had himself and also Samba Gi,[47] his son, conveyed out of
the town in great baskets, such as the Moors use to send fruits and
succades[48] in as gifts to their _mosqueys_. And thus reaching a
place of safety, he returned to Moruchtraw, and fought against the
Great Mogul with good success during almost all the remaining part of
his life. And of the consequences of these wars you will see that I
myself participated, but not yet.
Now during all this time I was not content to enjoy only my wage as a
writer and the annuity I had earned, but engaged myself also in
ventures to the Eastern Seas, whereby my wealth was much
increased.[49] But of my venture for cloves to the Manillas, or of my
sending of Europe goods in a _caphalay_[50] (which is a pack-train)
bound for the city of Dhilly, you won’t care to hear, and ’twould be
tedious to tell. But I may say to you that these ventures prospered
marvellously, so that when I had been four years in East India, I had
been able to put by moneys sufficient to pay the further bond of £500
demanded from factors, when I should have been five years a writer and
so have reached my promotion, and something also to adventure once
more in trading. And all this I did regard as a step towards the
fulfilment of that work which my father had set before me, and towards
my marriage with Dorothy, and in my letters sent home I writ with
great delight of this happy hope. Happy is it for us poor mortals that
we can’t read the future, for at this very time, when all looked so
bright before me, I was about to part with all I had gained, yea, with
all that I had ever had, and barely to escape with life itself.