THE GARNITURE OF WORK
Finishing off--Making up--Edges--Use of Cord-making Appliance--Cord
Twisted by Hand--Knotted Cord--Fringes--Tassels--Knots.
When the embroidery is completed, the making up, the addition of
tasteful finishing touches, and such things as fringes, tassels, and
linings, must all be considered. These will, if judiciously made use of,
give a distinction and character to the work that might be missed if due
care and thought were not expended upon such details. This part of the
work might be compared to the garnishing of a boiled fowl with lemon and
parsley, a minor detail, but a very effective one.
It is possible, by the help of such expedients, to emphasise certain
colours and bring out points of the design, as well as to give
completeness and finish. Such things as fringes, cords, and tassels are
often more satisfactory when made by the worker and with materials like
those used in the embroidery, for such will be more likely to be in
keeping with the character of the rest, and to be more interesting in
detail. In the finishing off the same taste and neatness of execution is
required as in the embroidery. Good work can be very much marred in the
making up; on the other hand, a little extra interest added on a part
not often seen renders it doubly valuable.
The mounting of certain things should not be attempted at home; boxes
should be handed over to the cabinetmaker, books to the bookbinder, and
so on, for it is not possible for any one not an expert to do these
things properly, and even good work can look poor if badly set.
The question how to appropriately finish off an edge often arises; let
it be hem stitched rather than plain hemmed; or a narrow line of drawn
thread work may be inserted, for an open-work border is frequently a
set-off to the rest of the embroidery. If a binding is placed over the
edge this can be fixed with a pretty stitch, or the stitch alone can
bind the edge, one such as buttonhole, overcast, or that shown in fig.
76. With some stitches the edge of the material can be rolled over a
piping cord and the stitch worked over the thus emphasised margin.
The difficulty of procuring cord suitable for use with embroidered work
makes the appliance illustrated at fig. 149 a useful possession.[14] The
cords made upon this wheel can be of any thickness, according to the
number of plies and the substance in each. Different colours and
materials can be twisted up together, such as a gold and silk thread.
[Illustration: Fig. 149.]
To make a three-plied cord, cut three equal lengths of thread rather
longer than the required cord is to be, as it shortens in the
twisting. Make a loop at each end of the thread, or, better still,
attach tiny metal rings at the ends. Hook the threads in position as
shown in the diagram, and place the instrument far enough from the
clamped block of wood to make the threads that are stretched between
quite taut. Now commence the twisting by turning the large wheel quickly
with an even motion in the direction that continues to twist up the
threads, keeping the left hand on the instrument to steady it, for it
gradually slides towards the block as the twisting continues. When
corkscrew-like knots begin to come in the threads, stop revolving the
wheel, unhook the two outer threads and place them both on the central
hooks together with the third thread, keeping them taut during the
process. Revolve the large wheel again, in the direction opposite to
that in which it has been working, and continue turning until the cord
is tightly twisted up. It is now made, and can be removed from the
machine. The second twisting had better be over-done rather than not
sufficiently, since if over-twisted the cord rights itself upon being
removed from the machine. A two-ply cord is made in like manner, by
using first the two outer hooks only, and then placing both threads
together on the central hooks.
There is a simple way of making this cord without the help of any
instrument, but it is not possible to get the perfect result that the
machine gives. It is most easily carried out by two persons, though one
can do it. In order to make a two-plied cord, by hand, take a thread
rather more than twice the length of the required cord. Let each worker
take an end of the thread in the right hand and commence to twist it
between the thumb and finger, each working in direction opposite to the
other and keeping the thread at tension. When twisted as much as
possible without getting corkscrew-like knots in the thread, the cord
must be doubled in half by holding it at the centre and bringing
together the two ends, which are then knotted. During the entire process
the thread must be kept under tension. If one end of the cord is now let
go it should immediately twist itself up tight, and remain in that
position. If any small knots form during the process run the cord
sharply through the fingers once or twice to straighten it out.
[Illustration: Fig. 150.]
[Illustration: Fig. 151.]
[Illustration: Fig. 152.]
Another pretty kind of cord is a knotted one. It is made in the hand in
most primitive fashion by using the two first fingers as crochet hooks.
The thread used for making it should be stout and firm. To commence
making the cord, knot two pieces of thread together and place the
threads in position as shown in fig. 150. The next step is shown in fig.
151, which is the index finger of the left hand bringing the darker
thread through the loop. Fig. 152 shows this thread looped on the
finger, the cord held in the left hand instead of the right, and the
right hand in process of drawing the lighter thread, which was the last
loop, tight. The next move, fig. 153, shows the right-hand first finger
making the new loop with the lighter thread, and fig. 154 shows the
loop on the finger, the cord passed over to be held in the right hand
again, and the left hand this time pulling the last loop tight. Continue
making the cord by following out the last four positions consecutively.
[Illustration: Fig. 153.]
[Illustration: Fig. 154.]
A very usual finish to an edge is a fringe. This can be made either by
fraying out the material or by adding a detached fringe, either knotting
it in or attaching it in some other way. If the fringe is to be a
frayed-out one, the best way to do it is to first draw out a few warp
threads where the head of the fringe is to come, then hem stitch the
upper edge of this, see the right-hand end of fig. 155; this makes the
heading of the fringe secure, after which the remainder of the warp
threads can be withdrawn. When fringing a square in this fashion, it is
well to save some of the frayings out to knot in at the four corners
where otherwise there would be gaps.
[Illustration: Fig. 155.]
To knot an added fringe into the border is a very simple matter. Begin
by cutting the threads that are to compose it all to one length, about
double that of the required fringe. Take a few together to form a bunch
and double it in half. With a stiletto make a hole near the edge of the
material; then bring from the back a crochet hook through this hole, and
draw the loop formed by the doubling of the bunch a little way through,
then take the ends of the bunch through the loop and draw them tight in
order to make the knotting firm.
[Illustration: Fig. 156.]
There are many ways of patterning a plain fringe, sometimes a change of
colour in the knotted-in threads is sufficient, as shown in fig. 156.
Another very usual way is to divide the bunches and refasten them
together in some way to form a pattern. Fig. 157 is an example of this;
they may be either knotted together, as in the first half of the
diagram, or bound with thread as in the second half, the needle reaching
the required places by running in zigzag fashion up the thread and down
again.
[Illustration: Fig. 157.]
A simple fringe can be made of strands twisted together, as in the first
half of fig. 158. This is made upon the same principle as the twisted
cord already described. About three threads of the fringe are twisted up
tight, and an adjoining three treated in the same fashion. These threes
are then twisted together in the direction opposite to that which has
just been used, and thus are securely locked together. The ends of the
completed fringe may require a little trimming off to make all of an
equal length. The second half of the diagram shows a durable and simple
fringe made by a close series of knots down the thread.
[Illustration: Fig. 158.]
Fig. 159 suggests two methods by which a stitching of coloured thread
near the margin can help to decorate a plain fringed edge.
[Illustration: Fig. 159.]
A row of tassels makes a pretty finish to various things. Complicated
tassel-making requires a professional hand; even a simple tassel
requires making properly. The first proceeding is to wind some thread
round a piece of cardboard, which should be a little wider than the
tassel is to be long; then double a piece of the same thread and thread
the two ends into a needle, thus leaving a loop at the usual knot end.
Slip the needle through the centre of the wound thread close to the
cardboard, then through the loop and draw the thread tight; this will
bind the threads securely at that point. They can then be cut exactly
opposite this on the other side, which will release the cardboard. Give
the binding thread another tightening pull, and then take the needle and
thread straight through the centre, as shown in fig. 160, and fasten it
off with a good knot. This knot will be in the ball part of the tassel
and will help to make it round. Next, double the tassel into shape ready
for the collar. Thread the needle as before and make the thread encircle
the tassel, as shown in the second figure in the diagram, drawing the
thread quite tight, and, if necessary, winding it several times round
the neck of the tassel until the collar is of sufficient width, then
take the needle and thread straight through the centre, bringing it out
at the top, where it can be made use of to fix the tassel in its place
upon the work. With sharp scissors trim the edge of the tassel which
now is complete. The ball part can be further decorated by covering it
with an open network of stitches in some contrasting colour; buttonhole
and various lace stitches can be used for the purpose.
[Illustration: Fig. 160.]
KNOTS
Knots, which can be very pretty, are at times required in embroidery;
anything that requires a fastening may give an opportunity for some
pretty interlacing strap work or knotting. Also knots may be practically
useful in both weaving and embroidery, for sometimes a finishing thread
must be knotted on to a new one, since there may be no opportunity of
making a firm commencement with the aid of the material.
The knot shown in fig. 161 is called the girdle knot; it might be made
use of in many other ways. To carry it out, make a loop with one end of
the cord and hold it between the left finger and thumb, the looped part
being towards the right, and the end that points downwards to the left
passing over the other end. Take up the other piece of cord, pass it
diagonally across the surface of the loop, commencing from the
right-hand lower side, then round under one end and over the other, then
up into the loop from underneath, over its own end that crosses the loop
there, and then out under the loop at the top right-hand corner.
[Illustration: Fig. 161.]
The Chinese knot, which is used for a sailor's collar, is shown in fig.
162. The looped end can be left as large as necessary. To work it the
first part of the knot is laid in position on the table, commencing at
point A; for the latter part (from point C) the thread is interlaced
through to the finish. It can then be pulled tight, taking care in the
drawing-together process that the various loops are adjusted in right
position.
[Illustration: Fig. 162.]
[Illustration: Fig. 163.]
Another ornamental knot is shown at fig. 163. To make it--Form a loop
and hold it between the left thumb and finger, the loop pointing to the
right, the longer end pointing upwards and passing over the end that
points downwards. Take hold of the end pointing upwards, pass it
perpendicularly downwards across the surface of the loop, then round
under the other end, up over its own end, under the side of the loop,
over its own end that lies across the loop, and out under the loop at
the right-hand end. Pull as tight as required. All these knots may be
made of double cord by running a second through, following the lead of
the first, just before tightening up the knot. The one last described
may be made of doubled cord from the commencement, the looped end being
used as the working end: the knot will then finish off with a loop at
one end, which can be used as a loop or cut if required.
[Illustration: Fig. 164.]
Fig. 164 is an example of a pretty piece of interlacing strap work
attached to a fastening.
The weavers' knot (fig. 165) is useful for practical purposes in both
weaving and embroidery; this knot is universally employed by the cotton
weavers when the warp breaks. It is made as follows--Place the two ends
that are to be knotted together between the thumb and first finger of
the left hand in such a way that they cross each other at right angles,
the end that points towards the left passing under the one pointing
towards the right. Pass the long end of thread that hangs down towards
the right, and which is the newly attaching piece, over the thumb, round
the back of the end pointing to the left in front of the other end, and
let it hang down again towards the right, holding the loop thus made
between the thumb and finger; then pass the end pointing towards the
right down through this loop and out on the opposite side. To draw the
knot tight, pull the end which hangs down towards the right, which will
tighten the loop and so complete the knot.
[Illustration: Fig. 165.]
The reef knot (fig. 166) is another useful one, and it has this
advantage over the weaver's knot, that both short ends return parallel
to the long ones instead of going off at an angle; this makes it neater
for some purposes.
[Illustration: Fig. 166.]
FOOTNOTE:
[14] This will be found described in detail in Chapter II. There is an
interesting drawing of a neat little machine, similar to this, but
worked by cogwheels, in _L'Art du Brodeur_, by Germain de St. Aubin
(1770).