STITCHES--(_continued_)
Knots and Knot Stitches--Herring-bone Stitch--Feather Stitch--Basket
Stitch--Fishbone Stitch--Cretan Stitch--Roumanian Stitch--Various
Insertion Stitches--Picots.
KNOTS AND KNOT STITCHES
It would be difficult to go far in embroidery without requiring knots
for one purpose or another. They are useful in all sorts of ways, and
make a pleasant contrast to the other stitches. For the enrichment of
border lines and various parts of the work, both pattern and background,
they are most serviceable, and also for solid fillings; for such places
as centres of flowers or parts of leaves, they are again valuable. They
have been used to form a continuous outline, but owing to their tendency
to make a weak line, not frequently; indeed they usually show to better
advantage when slightly separated.
Examples are to be seen of English knotted line work in which the
knotting was executed in the thread previously to embroidering with it.
The knotting of thread was a pastime with ladies in the XVIIth century.
The thread, usually a linen one and as a rule home spun, was wound upon
a netting-needle, and by the aid of this a close series of knots was
made upon it; when finished it somewhat resembled a string of beads.
Balls of this prepared knotted thread may still be found, treasured up
in old work receptacles. When prepared it was couched on to the material
with fine thread, like a cord or braid, and made to follow out some
prearranged pattern. In white linen work it was used for carrying out
ornamental borderings on infants' robes and other dainty articles.
[Illustration: Fig. 57.]
French knots can be worked in the hand or in a frame. They are easier to
manage in the latter, and to look well they must be neatly and firmly
made. Completed they should resemble beads lying end upwards on the
material. To work the French knot (fig. 57)--Bring the thread through
the material at the required point, take hold of it with the left finger
and thumb near the starting-point (A on plan), then let the point of the
needle encircle the held thread twice, twist the needle round and insert
it at point B on plan, draw the thread through to the back, not letting
go the held thread until necessary. Fig. 58 shows some French knots
decorating a leaf spray, and various other examples of their use can be
found in the book.
[Illustration: Fig. 58.]
Bullion knots resemble tight curls of thread laid on the material. They
can be used as a variation from French knots, and even for the
representation of petals and small leaves. To be satisfactory they must
be firm, stout, and tightly coiled; some knack is required to make them
properly. To work the bullion knot (fig. 59)--Bring the thread through
at the required place, insert the needle one-eighth of an inch from this
point and bring it through again exactly at it. Take hold of the thread
about two inches from where it came through and twist it several times
round the point of the needle, the number of times being dependent on
the required length of the knot. Place the left thumb upon the tight
coil on the needle, in order to keep it in place, and draw the needle
and thread through it, then pass the thread through to the back at the
point where the needle was last inserted (point A on plan). The thumb
must not be removed until it is in the way. Fig. 60 represents a flower,
of which the centre is formed of bullion together with French knots.
[Illustration: Fig. 59.]
[Illustration: Fig. 60.]
[Illustration: Fig. 61.]
Fig. 61 shows a knotted stitch that is similar in result to the knotted
threads discussed earlier in the chapter. In this case the knotting of
the thread and the fixing to the material is done at the same time. It
is a useful stitch when a jagged line is wanted, and can be seen used,
for instance, for the branching veins in open work leaves, as in fig.
62. The diagram explains the working of the stitch; at point A on the
plan the left thumb holds the thread down whilst the stitch is in
progress.
[Illustration: Fig. 62.]
MISCELLANEOUS STITCHES
[Illustration: Fig. 63.]
The stitch illustrated at fig. 63 is very similar to the common
herring-bone. The only practical difference is that in the plain
needlework stitch there is usually a smaller piece of material picked up
by the needle each time. To work it as in the diagram--Trace two
parallel lines on the material and bring the thread through at the
commencement of the lower line, insert it on the opposite line rather
farther along and there pick up a stitch, as the needle is doing in the
figure. Then on the opposite line pick up a similar stitch a little in
advance of the one just finished. After this work the stitches on either
line alternately, commencing each one at the point where the last one
ended; this forms on the underside a double row of back stitches. It is
quite easy to work this stitch with the back stitches on the working
side, and when they are required to be on the surface it is advisable to
do it in that way. When embroidering upon a semi-transparent material
this stitch is a satisfactory one to use, the back stitching follows out
the outline on either side of the form, and the crossing of the threads
on the under side shows through prettily. This stitch sometimes goes by
the name of double back stitch. It is useful in many ways, making a
light stitch for stems, leaves, or flowers; it can be sometimes found in
Eastern work used for an entire embroidery. When used for flowers or
leaves the width and the closeness of the stitch are varied to suit the
shape to be filled. An example of its use as a flower filling is shown
in the carnation at fig. 64, which is carried out in four shades of
colour. Considerable use is made of this stitch in embroidered curtain
shown in Plate VII.; it is there employed for all the stems and various
flowers upon the hanging.
[Illustration: Fig. 64.]
[Illustration: Fig. 65.]
The feather stitch, often used to decorate plain needlework, is now to
be discussed; although similar in name it must not be confused with the
feather or plumage stitch that has already been mentioned. The stitch is
so simple and so much in use as hardly to need description; fig. 65
explains the working. There can be many slight variations of the stitch,
the worker perhaps devising them needle in hand. Two are shown in fig.
66. The one to the left is worked very like the ordinary stitch; the
needle picks up the material in a straight line instead of slightly
obliquely, and each stitch touches the one immediately above; it is
here made use of as a couching stitch, a bunch of threads of a
contrasting colour is laid on the material, and the stitch worked over
it from side to side. The right-hand example shows the ordinary feather
stitch worked more closely and in a broader line; carried out in this
way, it can be used for a leaf filling.
[Illustration: Fig. 66.]
Basket stitch, useful for a solid line, shows up very clearly when
worked with a stout twisted thread. This stitch would be appropriately
used when applied to some representation of basket work. To carry out
the diagram (fig. 67)--Trace two parallel lines on the material, and to
commence, bring the thread through on the left-hand line, then insert
the needle on the right-hand line about one-eighth of an inch lower down
and bring it through on the left-hand line exactly opposite (see needle
in fig.); the next stitch is worked by inserting the needle on the
right-hand line but above the last stitch, that is at point A on
diagram, and bringing it through at B. To continue, repeat from the
beginning.
[Illustration: Fig. 67.]
A particularly good line for a border is made by fishbone stitch. It can
be worked in one colour, or as easily in a chequering of two or three,
as shown in the diagram (fig. 68); to carry it out in this way the
worker must have two threads in use, bringing through each as required.
For such purposes as the fillings of small leaves, this stitch is very
useful (see fig. 58). The meeting of the stitches in the centre suggest
the veining line, also the change in direction of the thread gives, to
the two sides of the leaf, pleasant variation in tone. To work
it--Trace three parallel lines upon the material and bring the thread
through on the upper line at the left-hand end. Insert the needle and
bring it through as in process in the diagram, then repeat the same
stitch on the other side the reverse way, that is, insert the needle
just over the central line and bring it through on the upper one close
to the last stitch. Care must be taken that the stitches cross well over
each other at the centre, or the material will show through.
[Illustration: Fig. 68.]
[Illustration: Fig. 69.]
The stitch shown in fig. 69, known as plait or Cretan, is commonly seen
on Cretan and other Eastern embroideries. It can be used as a solid
border stitch or as a filling, varying in width as required. To work
it--Bring the thread through on the lower central line, then insert the
needle on the uppermost line and bring it through on the next below as
in process in the diagram; then, still keeping the thread to the right,
insert the needle immediately underneath on the lowest line and bring it
through on the line next above, in fashion similar to the last stitch,
but in reverse direction. To continue, work the stitch alternately on
one side and the other, always keeping the thread to the right of the
needle. In order to make the central plait broader take up rather less
material with the needle; this will decrease the outer and increase the
inner lines. Fig. 70 is taken from a Cretan embroidery, in which this
stitch is mainly used.
[Illustration: Fig. 70.]
[Illustration: Fig. 71.]
Another similar but more simple stitch, often seen in Eastern work, is
shown in fig. 71. It can also frequently be found employed on XVIIth
century English wool work hangings. It is sometimes called Roumanian
stitch, and is composed of one long stitch crossed by a short one in the
centre. To work it--Trace two parallel lines on the material and bring
the thread through on the left-hand line at the top. Insert the needle
on the opposite line and bring it through near the centre, as shown in
process in the diagram. For the next half of the stitch the needle
enters the material at point A on plan, and is brought through again on
the left-hand line close to the last stitch, and so in position to
commence again. An illustration of this stitch in use as a filling can
be seen at fig. 72. It is worked in four shades of green wool, and each
line of stitches is so arranged as to encroach slightly on the line
before by means of setting each stitch just between two of the last row.
This method of working has two advantages; the shading is thus made
more gradual, and a pleasant undulating effect is given to the surface
of the leaf. This can be most easily understood by a practical trial of
the stitch and method.
[Illustration: Fig. 72.]
INSERTION STITCHES
There is occasion sometimes in embroidery to join edges together
visibly. This gives an opportunity for some additional pretty
stitching--the addition of something like this, that is perhaps not
absolutely necessary, has extra value from the evidence it gives of the
worker's interest and delight in her work, a quality always appreciated;
on the other hand, work done from the motive of getting a result with as
little labour as possible is valued at just its worth.
These insertion stitches are useful for joining together edges of
cushion covers, bags, detached bands, also for the ornamentation of
dress, and for embroideries upon which drawn thread work is not
possible. A stout thread is usually suitable for the purpose. The raw
edges must first be turned in and flattened, and the parts to be joined
can if necessary be tacked in place on a temporary ground such as
_toile cirée_.
Fig. 73 illustrates a twisted insertion stitch that is quickly executed
and very frequently used. The diagram sufficiently explains the working
without further description.
[Illustration: Fig. 73.]
Buttonhole stitch can be turned to account for this purpose. Fig. 74
shows the tailor's buttonhole used as an insertion stitch; for this
purpose it is the better of the two kinds of buttonhole. The stitches
could be arranged in various ways; in the present example three are
worked closely together on either side in turn. The only difficulty with
this buttonhole insertion is that on one side the stitch has to be
worked in direction contrary to that usual, that is from right to left
instead of from left to right. In the diagram the needle is shown
working in this reverse way.
[Illustration: Fig. 74.]
[Illustration: Fig. 75.]
Fig. 75 is a knotted insertion stitch; the knot at each side makes the
stitch a very rigid one. To work it--Bring the thread through at the
lower left-hand side, insert the needle on the upper side a little
towards the right, draw the thread through, and then tie the knot on it
as in process in the diagram.
[Illustration: Fig. 76.]
A rather more complicated joining stitch is shown in fig. 76. It could
be carried out with different coloured threads. The two sides must be
first worked with the edging, which is practically the braid stitch
described on page 88. Commence the stitch in exactly the same way as
when carrying out braid stitch, but work on the edge of the material as
in buttonholing, the working edge in this case being away from the
worker. Let the worker, having reached the point of pulling the thread
through to complete the stitch, draw it out in the direction away from
her. This will draw the stitch towards the edge, where it will form a
knot. In the diagram one of the stitches has been partly undone in order
to show the working more clearly. When the two sides are bound with the
stitch, they can be laced together with another thread as in the
illustration.
PICOTS
Picots are commonly in use in lace work and they are sometimes required
for embroidery purposes, especially in the kinds of work nearly allied
to lace, such as cut work, or for an added ornament to an edging stitch.
[Illustration: Fig. 77.]
Fig. 77 shows too small picots added to a buttonhole bar, and on the
lower bar is shown the method of working the left-hand picot. The pin
that passes into the material behind the bar can be fixed in the bar
itself if there happens to be no material underneath. After reaching
the point illustrated in the diagram, the needle draws the thread
through, thus making a firm knot round the loop. This completes the
picot, the bar is then buttonholed to the end. The second picot is made
in much the same way; instead, however, of putting the needle as the
diagram shows, bring the thread up through the centre of the loop, then
round under the pin from left to right, and it will be in position to
make three buttonhole stitches along the loop, which completes the
second example.
[Illustration: Fig. 78.]
The upper bar on fig. 78 shows a buttonholed picot. The bar must be
worked to the left-hand end of the required picot; the thread is then
from there taken back about one-eighth of an inch and threaded through
the edge of the buttonhole. This is repeated to and fro until there is a
loop composed of three threads ready to be buttonholed over. Upon this
being done, the thread will have arrived at the right point to continue
the bar.
Bullion stitch makes another simple picot--Work the bar to the point
where the picot is required, then, instead of taking the next stitch,
insert the point of the needle in the heading of the last stitch. Leave
the needle in this position, and twist the thread six or eight times
round the point of it, just as for the bullion knot (fig. 59). Place the
left thumb over the tight coil thus formed, and pull the needle and
thread through tightly in order to make the stitch double up into a
tight semi-circle, then continue the buttonholing to the end of the
bar.