wife, is as follows: The woman squatted down on the ground, and taking
an enormous flat gourd, containing milk which had been kept for three
days, she proceeded to rock it to and fro, bringing it up short against
her thigh. She assured us that, for the purpose of obtaining butter, it
was absolutely necessary to insert two small pieces of wood as medicine.
Judging from the quantity of butter, I doubted its efficacy; and
suspecting that there was some new villainy in hand, as we obtained
about a quarter of an ounce of butter from a bucket full of milk, we
waited till the process was complete, and then told her to bring the
gourd to us. All my doubts as to the efficacy of the two bits of wood
were removed when I discovered that they were just large enough to jam
in the neck of the gourd, and that, perched on the top of them, was a
pound and a half of butter. She was quite unabashed at the discovery,
and evidently mentally prayed that she would have better luck next time,
which I have no doubt she did, although not in that particular method.
On our last march up the side of the lake the cattle were, owing to the
steep nature of the road, left a long way behind; a band of natives
attacked them, but the cattle-guard, firing a few rounds, which did more
harm to themselves than to anybody else, repulsed the attack. Hearing
about it, I sent Makanjira, my gun-bearer, back, and with his help they
brought them all in without mishap.
At the north-east corner of the lake there is an abrupt descent, and to
the north of the lake the country is flat, gently sloping to the base of
the large, active volcano.
*CHAPTER XI.*
*THE VOLCANOES.*
At the base of the descent there is a small bay, the resort of many
fishermen, and beyond, two small isolated peaks, on the slope of one of
which we camped. In the evening I climbed to the top of the one nearest
to the lake to take observations of all the promontories down the east
coast.
I think the view is the finest I have ever seen. Far to the south
stretched the mighty expanse of water; dark promontories of every shape
and size jutted far into the lake; Kwijwi stood out in bold outline; and
the mighty wall of mountains on the west was dimly visible on the far
horizon. Below me stretched a great plain, the eastern part densely
covered with fields of millet and banana plantations, dotted with a
thousand huts. In all the fields hundreds of women were working, and
small herds of cattle and goats were slowly wending their way to the
lake. To the west, the plain was covered with young forest. To the
north towered the terrific mass of Mount Goetzen, vomiting forth a great
volume of black smoke. The old volcanoes towered aloft above the
clouds, which swirled in constant eddies about their base. Entranced
with the view, I waited till the sun declined and dropped like a molten
ball behind the bold outline of the hills; then the moon came up,
bathing the waters of the lake in silvery light.
The natives visited our camp in hundreds, and brought numerous presents
of goats and sheep, and an unlimited quantity of supplies for sale. We
told them that we wanted to buy eggs--a request that always astonishes
the natives, who are not used to the ways of white men, as they
themselves never eat them. One old gentleman rushed away, and shortly
returned, bringing a dirty basket with a frowsy old hen and about
fifteen small chickens emerging from the eggs, and was surprised because
we said they were of no use to us. We tried to explain that we
preferred them fresh, and he evidently thought that we were making a
fool of him.
Here we were informed that in the pass between the volcanoes there was
no water, and that we should have to purchase what we required at great
price from the natives, who obtain a purple liquid by tapping the stems
of the banana palms.
The large volcanoes, of which there are six, fall naturally under two
heads. The two western ones are still active; the highest I have
described on my map as Mount Goetzen, in honour of Count Goetzen, who
was the first to discover Kivu, and who made the ascent of the peak
which I have named after him. Owing to the impossibility of obtaining
representative names to these mountains, I have suggested names for
them. On one of the mountains on which I camped, I obtained no less
than thirty-six names of the same place. Mount Goetzen is a stupendous
mass, and has three craters. The central crater, described by Count
Goetzen, is very extensive; the bottom of the crater is quite flat, and
has two cleanly-drilled vent-holes; the northern and the southern
craters are now extinct. It is covered with the densest imaginable
forest, almost to the summit; and Count Goetzen found it absolutely
necessary, during his ascent, to fetch all water from the lake.
Slightly to the north-west of this peak another volcano, covering an
enormous area, has formed since Count Goetzen's passage through the
country. He mentions considerable activity at the end of the ridge; and
two years before I passed through the country there had been a terrific
eruption, in the course of which this volcano formed; its crater is
several miles in circumference. I have described it as Mount Sharp,
after my fellow-traveller.
The eastern system is still more imposing. The four main peaks have
long been extinct, and the form of the highest, which I have described
as Mount Eyres, after Mrs. Eyres of Dumbleton Hall, Evesham, is very
striking, reminding me forcibly of the Matterhorn, as seen from the
Riffelalp. The height of Mount Eyres is over 13,000 ft., and its summit
was almost invariably covered with snow in the morning. A dense,
impenetrable forest runs up to a height of 11,500 ft., above which there
is open woodland. The actual summit, or last 500 ft., is practically
bare. The top has the appearance of slightly overhanging, and shows
some bold rock faces. The next volcano in the chain I have described as
Mount Kandt, after the eminent scientist who is making such exhaustive
studies of Ruanda and the north-west territories of the German sphere.
We insisted upon all our boys buying gourds for water, in case of there
being any difficulty in obtaining it on the road. The waterless stage
to be traversed was a long one, and we therefore only made a short
march, and camped at the last watering-place, which was about four miles
from the lake. This was the site of Gwamu's village. Gwamu himself,
following the traditions of the Ruanda kings, retired to the mountains,
but left his headman to receive us with a handsome present of goats and
necessaries.
The population here was enormous, every available inch of country was
cultivated, and this portion of Bugoie is undoubtedly the most
prosperous, the most densely populated, and the most fertile spot that I
have seen in Africa.
Fifteen miles to the east, the range that encloses the Rift Valley
culminates in a striking peak. It is known to the natives as Hembe e
Bugogo. This peak is at a pronounced angle in the range; and northwards
the enclosing hills recede towards the east. The volcanoes themselves
are a quite distinct system, having risen out of the bed of the Rift
Valley.
On the following day we started on our waterless march with many
misgivings. Our route lay along the base of the hills, then over a
small chain of extinct volcanic craters, then across the flat, swampy
plain, which lies to the east of Mount Goetzen. In all directions there
are isolated, extinct craters, still perfect in form, and invariably
terraced and covered with crops of peas and beans.
We camped in the vicinity of three large, straggling villages. The
natives were not very friendly at first, although the headman of Gwamu
had accompanied us, and about tea-time one of our men rushed in to say
that the herds had been attacked and that they had lost thirty goats and
sheep, and that one man had been wounded with a spear. I hurried out to
the scene, but it was too late to do any good, and I returned, bringing
in the remnants of our flocks.
The path then passed over the summit of the pass between Mount Goetzen
and Mount Eyres. I found the height to be approximately 7,000 feet.
Half a mile from our camp I discovered a small cave open at both ends,
in which there was a pool of water, which the natives refused to drink;
whether from superstition or because the water is poisonous, I could not
say.
At the base of Mount Eyres there are several small craters, and on the
north side of the base there is a little rugged patch of country, where
the path descends into abrupt ravines, and passes through a strip of the
most luxuriant tropical forest, on the far side of which the wonderful
pastures, characteristic of this country, recommence. Here, we were
told, was the elephant country.
Gwamu's headman was still with us, and he brought in many of the
surrounding chiefs. At first they were very friendly and brought us
plenty of supplies for sale, the article of exchange in greatest request
being salt. Judging from their phenomenal mendacity, I can quite
understand their need of it.
Here we purchased several bows made by the dwarfs. They are quite
distinct from any other bow that I have seen. The arc is in two pieces,
an outside sheath of split cane with another piece of wood let in to the
groove; both are neatly bound together by reed, and the string is
composed of one blade of a very tough reed which grows in the forest.
We also procured some strings of beads which the natives said had come
from the west; they are very primitive, and appear to have been made of
some kind of shell.
The following morning we went out in search of elephant.
The forest was full of traps set by the Pigmies. The ordinary type was
a bamboo bent towards the game-path with a string fastened to the
ground, where it was tied in a running noose; by this means, I am
informed, they catch many pigs and small quadrupeds of the forest. They
also fix spears, weighted with heavy blocks of wood, in the trees, and
the elephant passing underneath releases the spear by breaking the cord
with which it is attached; but I think their usual method of slaying
elephant is by firing poisoned arrows into them--having done which, they
follow the unfortunate beast for days, until it drops.
The country was so impenetrable that hunting was a practical
impossibility, so two days later I started with ten boys to see if I
could find an easier hunting-ground. I passed round to the north of
Mount Eyres, and pitched my camp on an eminence of 9,000 ft.,
overlooking the Rutchuru Valley. Here I immediately found fresh
elephant-tracks. A herd of ten had passed towards the north, and a
solitary old bull had gone towards the forest on the mountain slope.
This I elected to follow, and in an hour and a half I could hear him not
far away, tearing down branches of trees. His spoor was bigger than any
spoor I have ever seen, and the size of the brute, when I first saw him,
filled me with astonishment. Unfortunately he was not standing broadside
on, and it was impossible for me to go round. From where I stood, I
could see the small glade in which he was standing, but could only see a
portion of his head and the ridge of his back. I watched him for some
time picking the leaves off a tree; then, having eaten all the leaves
within reach, without apparent effort he seized the trunk of the tree
about 16 ft. from the ground and laid it flat. The tree had a diameter
of more than 2 ft. Fearing that he might move into the impenetrable
jungle that surrounded us, I took the shot, difficult as it was; he
fell, but instantly recovered himself and dashed away, getting the
second barrel in his flank as he did so. For several hours I followed
him, without getting another shot, though I found where he had again
fallen down and lost much blood. A few hundred yards further on I heard
him in some very thick bush; my guide, who was following on the spoor,
refused to advance, and I had perforce to take the lead. The wind was
very shifty, and he suddenly detected our presence, venting his
disapproval in a series of unpleasant grunts. Suddenly, hearing a great
crashing of bushes, I thought that he was moving away, and hurried
forward as fast as the difficult track would allow, in the hopes of
catching a glimpse of him. The noise was terrific, and it suddenly
dawned upon me that, so far from moving off, he was coming on. I was
powerless to move--a fall would have been fatal--so waited; but the
forest was so dense that I never saw him till his head was literally
above me, when I fired both barrels of the double .500 magnum, which I
was carrying, in his face. The whole forest seemed to crumple up, and a
second later I found myself 10 ft. above the ground, well home in a
thorn-bush, while my gun was lying ten yards away in the opposite
direction; and I heard a roar as of thunder disappearing into the
distance. A few seconds later, the most daring of my boys, Zowanji,
came hurrying along with that sickly green hue which a negro's face
assumes in moments of fear, and with his assistance I descended from my
spiky perch. I was drenched with blood, which fortunately proved to be
not mine, but that of the elephant; my gun, which I recovered, was also
covered with his blood, even to the inside of the barrels. The only
damage I sustained was a slightly twisted knee. I cannot say whether
the elephant actually struck me, or whether I was carried there by the
rush of country.
Following on his tracks, I found enormous pools of blood, and half a
mile further on I again heard grunts, which showed that he had caught my
wind. He rushed about, uttering those strident shrieks that are so
terrifying, but, after his last experience, refused to charge. I spent
an exceedingly nervous five minutes, while he devastated half an acre of
forest. Then he moved on again, and it was not till two hours later
that I caught him up. He was standing in a dense bamboo thicket, and I
fired the .500 at his head; he fell to the shot, but quickly recovered
and went away. Yet another time I caught him up, and approached within
ten yards, but the thicket was so dense that I could not see an inch of
his body. I might have turned his flank, but in so doing should have
given him my wind, and I funked it. He shortly moved on, and after
twice falling pulled himself together, and went through the bamboo
forest at an increased pace. I followed hard, but never saw him again,
and at sunset was compelled to give up the chase.
We were at an altitude of 9,000 ft. and spent the night sitting naked
round a fire, while the rain beat out any lingering sentiments for
elephant-hunting that had survived the day's work. The old volcanic
soil of these forests is so porous that above the valley there are no
streams. We had had nothing to eat or drink since 6 a.m., and it was
not till 11.30 the following morning that we found a cattle-station in
the forest. Here we drank a quantity of milk, and eventually arrived in
camp at two in the afternoon. My boys were almost dead with fatigue,
and I myself slept for fifteen hours without rocking.
In following elephant through these forests it was necessary to cut
one's way with a native axe on the path that the elephant had traversed
only five minutes before. At times, for many yards one never touched
the ground, but had perforce to climb along the tree-trunks, and the
dense vegetable growth, constantly slipping and falling into thorn-bush
and nettles, all of which the elephant would take in his stride; while
the bush was so solid that, after the elephant had brushed it aside, it
flew back to its original position.
This nettle, which, I believe, is peculiar to these volcanoes, is the
most appalling creation that I have ever dreamed of. Some were 10 ft.
in height, and it was impossible to brush them aside; they were covered
with myriads of long, almost invisible, spines, which penetrated khaki,
flannel, and everything except leather. The pain produced by contact
with them was nearly unbearable, but fortunately subsided in about ten
minutes. At times they were so bad that my natives could no longer
move, and I had to beat down a track before they could pass. Many times
they sat down and howled like babies. Some of the trees that had been
torn down by the elephant were of enormous dimensions, and I had never
before even guessed at the stupendous power of the African elephant.
I found that the country here was no easier than that which I had just
left, and therefore marched north down the long sloping spur that leads
into the valley of the Kako.
The district round the base of Mount Eyres is called Bwisha. It is
ruled by a powerful chief called Kahanga. His main village was
elaborately protected by a palisade, around which trees and creepers had
been planted to consolidate the structure, and it was surrounded by many
smaller villages. The whole of the adjacent country was densely planted
with banana, and all the intervening land was covered with fields of
peas, beans, and millet.
My track led down a small stream that flowed into the Mungawo, which is
the western head-waters of the Kako, as the southern part of the
Rutchuru is called; it is consequently one of the most distant sources
of the Albert Nile. The territory between the Mungawo and the Kako is
called Shoni; here I made many inquiries about elephant, and, as usual,
was informed that there were none actually there, but that there were
tremendous quantities elsewhere.
Kahanga was at first rather suspicious, but plucking up courage at the
insignificant proportions of my caravan, he eventually became very
communicative, and told off some men to guide me round the country.
Leaving this village I marched to the east, along the base of four
extinct volcanoes, to find out the real truth of the vexed question of
Mfumbiro.
Mfumbiro, as a mountain, is unknown to the natives, but I eventually
ascertained that it is merely a native word which means "The place where
there is fire." And when I reached the country where Mount Mfumbiro had
been supposed by an imaginative treaty-maker to be, I was informed that
"Mfumbiro" was used by the natives in that part to represent the
district of the active volcanoes.
In reaching my destination I passed through many almost impenetrable
forests of bamboo, and crossed the head-waters of the main stream of the
Kako. The natives appeared to be rather disturbed, and suspicious of my
intentions. With such a weak caravan I did not desire to have any
trouble; I therefore hastily retreated to the base of Mount Eyres once
more.
Close to Kahanga's village there is a small pool, probably a relic of
the lake that once filled this Rift Valley, as there are a few
hippopotami therein, and the hilly nature of the country that surrounds
this small lake renders it improbable that they have any connection with
the outside world.
From here I made my first attempt to cross the great lava streams that
fill the trough of the valley, with the intention of inspecting Mushari,
which Dr. Kandt had told me teemed with elephant. Inquiries which I
made confirmed his report, and the natives appeared particularly anxious
for me to go there. It was not till my eventual arrival in Mushari that
I really understood the reason of their anxiety.
When I had penetrated a short distance into the tangled scrub that has
sprung up on the edge of the lava-stream, my guide mysteriously
disappeared; and as it was already late in the day, and I knew that
there was no chance of obtaining water till I reached the hills on the
far side, I returned. Passing round the base of the terrace which
overhangs the lava-stream, I eventually arrived back at our main camp.
On the way I traversed a wonderful succession of plantations and
villages. The natives bring all their water from a distance of six
miles.
I found that Sharp, after losing two stone in frantic efforts to find
elephant, had given up the game as a bad job, and together we started to
make another attempt to cross into Mushari.
The natives stated that there was a track round Mount Goetzen, and it
was not until we had actually started that they informed us that it was
impossible to take cattle there. One man volunteered to show the way,
but at the last moment endeavoured to escape. However, he was caught,
and a string was tied round his neck. I explained to him that I could
not risk being left without a guide, and had therefore been compelled to
take that precaution, promising him, however, a supplementary present
when he had completed his task, as compensation for his offended
dignity. He then protested that the track was impossible, saying that
there was no water for two days, nor any food, and that the path was so
bad that it would cut everybody's feet to pieces. Sharp and I
accordingly arranged that it would be better to see what the path was
like before moving with the whole caravan. For this purpose I started
with half a dozen men, carrying my necessaries, while Sharp returned to
our camping-place.
I and my boys set out for the slopes of Mount Goetzen, and on the way
managed to pick up two more guides. After climbing a very steep hill, we
arrived on a flat terrace, where there were many signs of elephant; this
we crossed and plunged into the dense forest, characteristic of the
slopes of these volcanoes. The track was almost indistinguishable, and
the recent depredations of elephant had rendered it practically
impassable. After eight hours' work we found that it would be impossible
to reach a pool of water which, my guide acknowledged, existed at some
distance. At this point two of the guides mysteriously vanished, and I
sincerely congratulated myself on having tied the third one up.
I waited for my boys to close up, but waited in vain: all except two had
lost the track, and though I fired round after round, there was no
response. Everything, with the exception of the inside of my tent, was
with the boys who had strayed. To afford some shelter we fixed up this
part of the tent on some poles, which we cut with a sword-bayonet.
Torrential rains fell all night, but unfortunately we had no means of
catching the water, as the roof of foliage above our heads caught the
fall and poured it on to us through unexpected channels. It was
exceedingly cold, and we had no food. However, the night passed
somehow, and the following morning, retracing our steps and firing shots
at intervals, we eventually discovered the other boys. The sun was very
hot, and selecting an open glade, we sat down and dried ourselves, while
making a square meal.
In the midst of my meal I had an idea that somebody from behind was
looking at me; and turning round, I saw the hideous, distorted features
of a pigmy leering at me in open-mouthed astonishment through the bush
against which I was resting. When he saw that he was detected he dashed
away at an incredible pace, and my boys failed to catch him. These
pigmies are usually described by travellers as implacably hostile to
strangers, but I never had any trouble with them, although I came in
contact with many.
Having no water or food, I had, for the second time, to abandon the
attempt to reach Mushari, and sorrowfully retraced my steps to camp,
burning on my way the hut of the guide who had bolted; a punishment that
he richly deserved, as he had undertaken to come for payment and had
left me, thinking that I should be lost, and taking with him my axe.
In this part of Africa the natives use the word "tanganyika" for any
lake or extensive body of water.
On my way into camp I saw another pigmy in one of the villages. He had
brought honey to trade with the Ruanda people for grain. The natives
informed me that the pigmies have no settled villages, nor do they
cultivate anything. They live the life of the brute in the forests,
perpetually wandering in search of honey or in pursuit of elephant; when
they succeed in killing anything, they throw up a few grass shelters and
remain there till all the meat is either eaten or dried. They depend
upon the other natives for the necessary grain, which they either steal
or barter for elephant-meat or honey. All their knives, spear-heads,
and arrow-heads they likewise purchase from other people, but they make
their own bows and arrows. So well are these made that they are held in
great esteem by the surrounding people. This pigmy fled on my approach,
and although the country was perfectly flat, and therefore my boys were
on equal terms when they tried to catch him, he easily escaped. The
pace at which he ran was extraordinary. It is curious to notice how
perfectly adapted they are to the surroundings in which they live; the
combination of immense strength necessary for the precarious
hunting-life they lead, and of compactness, indispensable to rapid
movement in dense forest, where the pig-runs are the only means of
passage, is a wonderful example of nature's adaptability.