During the early settlement of the State, white men coming into these

fertile counties not only would settle as much land as a family of four

or five in number could cultivate, but as much as they were able to buy

Negroes to cultivate. Quite a few families with only five or six in

number would have land enough to work from 100 to 1,000 Negroes. One can

see from this how a few white families would, as they often did, own a

whole county. Now the Negro is not migratory in his nature; having been

brought to these counties during slavery, he has remained here in

freedom. He is not, therefore, primarily responsible for his being here

in such great numbers. These white families settled in little villages

seven or eight miles apart. The distances between were made up of their

plantations, on which were thousands of slaves. Only a few Negroes were

employed as domestics in comparison with the great numbers who worked on

plantations. It was only these few who, in learning to serve the white

man, properly got a glimpse of real home life. The masses had absolutely

no idea of such a life; nothing was done that would lead them to secure

any such knowledge.

Since their emancipation the masses of these people have had neither

competent preachers nor teachers; consequently most of them have

remained hopelessly ignorant even until this day. One hearing the great

condemnation heaped upon the Negro in these sections for his failure to

measure up to the standards of true citizenship and to proper standards

of life would get the idea that the proud Anglo-Saxon has spent a great

deal of time in trying to teach him the fundamental principles that

underlie life; but this is not the case. There are exceptions to all

rules, however, and here and there one may find noble and patriotic

white men laboring for the uplift of fallen humanity without regard to

race, color, or previous condition.

During the summer of 1893, after returning from Tuskegee, being anxious

to learn more of the real condition of our people in the "Black Belt," I

visited most of the places in Wilcox County and a few places in the

counties of Monroe, Butler, Dallas, and Lowndes, making the entire

journey on foot.

It was a bright and beautiful morning in June when I started from my

home, a log cabin. More than two hundred Negroes were in the near-by

fields plowing corn, hoeing cotton, and singing those beautiful songs

often referred to as plantation melodies. Notably, I am Going to Roll in

my Jesus' Arms; O Freedom! Before I'd be a Slave I'd be Carried to My

Grave, etc., may be mentioned. With the beautiful fields of corn and

cotton outstretched before me, and the shimmering brook like a silver

thread twining its way through the golden meadows, and then through

verdant fields, giving water to thousands of creatures as it passed, I

felt that the earth was truly clothed in His beauty and the fulness of

His glory.

But I had scarcely gone beyond the limits of the field when I came to a

thick undergrowth of pines. Here we saw old pieces of timber and two

posts.

"This marks the old cotton-gin house," said Uncle Jim, my companion, and

then his countenance grew sad; after a sigh he said: "I have seen many a

Negro whipped within an inch of his life at these posts. I have seen

them whipped so badly that they had to be carried away in wagons. Many

never did recover."

From this our road led first up-hill, then down, and finally through a

stretch of woods until we reached Carlowville. This was once the most

aristocratic village of the southern part of Dallas County. Perhaps no

one who owned less than a hundred slaves was able to secure a home

within its borders. Here still are to be seen the stately mansions of

the Lydes, the Lees, the Wrumphs, the Bibbses, the Youngbloods, and the

Reynoldses. Many of these mansions have been partly rebuilt and

remodeled to conform to modern styles of architecture, while others have

been deserted and are now fast decaying. Usually these mansions are

occupied by others than the original families. The original families

have sold out or have died out.

In Carlowville stands the largest white church in Dallas or Wilcox

Counties. It has a seating capacity of 1,000, excluding the balcony,

which, during slavery, was used exclusively for the Negroes of the

families attending.

Our stay in Carlowville was necessarily short, as the evening sun was

low and the nearest place for lodging was two miles ahead. Before

reaching this place we came to a large one-room log cabin, 30 feet by 36

feet, on the road-side, with a double door and three holes for windows

cut in the sides. There was no chimney nor anything to show that the

room could be heated in cold weather. This was the Hope-well Baptist

Church. Here 500 members congregated one Sunday in each month and spent

the entire day in eating, shouting, and "praising God for His goodness

toward the children of men." Here also the three months' school was

taught during the winter. A few hundred yards beyond this church brought

us to the home of a Deacon Jones.

He was living in the house occupied by the overseer of the plantation

during slavery. It was customary for Deacon Jones to care for strangers

who chanced to come into the community, especially for the preachers and

teachers. So here we found rest.

His family consisted of himself, his wife, and six children--two boys

and four girls. Mrs. Jones was noted for her ability to prepare food

well, and in a short while invited us to a delicious supper of fried

chicken, fried ham, some very fine home-made sugar-cane sirup, and an

abundance of milk and butter. At supper Deacon Jones told of the many

preachers he had entertained and their fondness for chicken.

After supper I spent some time in trying to find out the real condition

of the people in this section. Mr. Jones told me how, for ten years, he

had been trying to buy some land, and had been kept from it more than

once, but that he was still hopeful of getting the right deeds for the

land for which he had paid. He also told of many families who had

recently moved into this community. These newcomers had made a good

start for the year and had promising crops, but they were compelled to

mortgage their growing crops in order to get "advances" for the year.

When asked of the schools, he said that there were more than five

hundred children of school age in his township, but not more than two

hundred of these had attended school the previous winter, and most of

these for a period not longer than six weeks. He also said that the

people were very indifferent as to the necessity of schoolhouses and

churches. Quite a few who cleared a little money the previous year had

spent it all in buying whisky, in gambling, in buying cheap jewelry, and

for other useless articles. After spending two hours in such talk I

retired for the evening. Thus ended the first day of my search for

first-hand information.

We had a fine night's rest. Mr. Jones was up at early dawn to feed his

horses and cattle, and before the sun was up he was out on his farm.

Mrs. Jones and one of the daughters were left to prepare breakfast, and

soon they, too, were ready to join the others on the farm. We took

advantage of this early rising and were soon off on our journey.

Instead of going farther northward, we turned our course westward for

the town of Tilden, which is only eight miles west of Snow Hill. The

road from Carlowville to Tilden is somewhat hilly, but a very pleasant

one, and for miles the large oak-trees formed an almost perfect arch.

On reaching Tilden we learned that there would be a union meeting of two

of the churches that night. I decided that this would give me an

opportunity to study the religious life of these people for myself. The

members of churches No. 1 and No. 2 assembled at their respective places

at eight o'clock. The members of church No. 2 had a short

praise-service, and formed a line of procession to march to church No.

1. All the women of the congregation had their heads bound in pieces of

white cloth, and they sang their peculiar songs as they marched. When

the members of church No. 2 were within a few hundred yards of church

No. 1, the singing then alternated, and finally, when the members of

church No. 2 came to church No. 1, they marched around this church three

times before entering it. After entering, six sermons were preached to

the two congregations by six different ministers, and at least three of

these could not read a word in the Bible. Each minister occupied at

least one hour. Their texts were as often taken from Webster's blue-back

speller as from the Bible, and sometimes this would be held upside down.

It was about two o'clock in the morning when the services were

concluded.

Here, again, we found no schoolhouses, and the three months' school had

been taught in one of the little churches.

The next day we started for Camden, a distance of sixteen miles. This

section between Tilden and Camden is perhaps the most fertile section of

land in the State of Alabama. Taking a southwest course from Tilden, I

crossed into Wilcox County again, where I saw acres of corn and miles of

cotton, all being cultivated by Negroes.

The evening was far advanced when we reached Camden, but having been

there before, we had no difficulty in securing lodging. Camden is the

seat of Wilcox County, and has a population of about three thousand

inhabitants.

The most costly buildings of the town were the court-house and jail, and

these occupied the most conspicuous places.

Here great crowds of Negroes would gather on Saturdays to spend their

earnings of the week for a fine breakfast or dinner on the following

Sunday, or for useless trivialities.

On Saturday evenings, on the roads leading to and from Camden, as from

other towns, could be seen groups of Negroes gambling here and there,

and buying and selling whisky. As the county had voted against licensing

whisky-selling, this was a violation of the law, and often the

commission merchant, a Negro, was imprisoned for the offense, while

those who supplied him went free.

In Camden I found one Negro schoolhouse; this was a box-like cottage, 20

by 16 feet, and was supposed to seat more than one hundred students.

This school, like those taught in the churches, was open only three

months in the year.

After a two days' stay in Camden I next visited Miller's Ferry; this is

on the Alabama River, twelve miles west of Camden. The road from Camden

is one of the best roads in the State, and for miles and miles one could

see nothing but cotton and corn.

At Miller's Ferry a Negro schoolhouse of ample proportions had been

built on Judge Henderson's plantation. Here the school ran seven months

in the year, and the colored people in the community were prosperous and

showed a remarkable degree of intelligence. Their church was equally as

attractive as their schoolhouse.

Judge Henderson was for twelve years Probate Judge of Wilcox County. He

proved to be one of the best judges this county has ever had, and even

unto this day he is admired by all, both white and black, rich and poor,

for his honesty, integrity, and high sense of justice. From Judge

Henderson's place we traveled southward to Rock-west, a distance of more

than fifteen miles. During this journey hundreds of Negroes were seen at

work in the corn- and cotton-fields. These people were almost wholly

ignorant, as they had neither schools nor teachers, and their ministers

were almost wholly illiterate.

At Rock-west I found a very intelligent colored man who had attended

school at Selma, Ala., for a few years. He owned his home and ran a

small grocery. He told of the hardships with which he had to contend in

building up his business, and of the almost hopeless condition of the

Negroes about there. He said that they usually made money each year, but

that they did not know how to keep it. The merchants would induce them

to buy buggies, machines, clocks, etc., but would never encourage them

to buy homes. We were very much pleased with the reception which Mr.

Darrington gave us, and felt very much like putting into practise our

State motto, "Here We Rest," at his home, but our objective point for

the day was Fatama, sixteen miles away.

On our journey that afternoon we saw hundreds of Negro one-room log

cabins. Some of these were located in the dense swamps and some on the

hills, while others were miles away from the public road. Most of these

people had never seen a locomotive. We reached Fatama about seven

o'clock that night, and here for the first time we were compelled to

divide our crowd in order to get a night's lodging. Each of us had to

spend the night in a one-room cabin. It was my privilege to spend the

night with Uncle Jake, a jovial old man, a local celebrity. After

telling him of our weary journey, he immediately made preparation for me

to retire. This was done by cutting off my bed from the remainder of the

cabin by hanging up a sheet on a screen. While somewhat inconvenient, my

rest that night was pleasant, and the next morning found me very much

refreshed and ready for another day's journey. Our company assembled at

Uncle Jake's for breakfast, after which we started for Pineapple.

We found the condition of the Negroes between Fatama and Pineapple much

the same as that of those we had seen the previous day. No schoolhouse

was to be seen, but occasionally we would see a church at the

cross-roads. We reached Pineapple late in the afternoon.

From Pineapple we went to Greenville, and from Greenville to Fort

Deposit, and from Fort Deposit we returned to Snow Hill, after having

traveled a distance of 157 miles and visiting four counties.

In three of these counties there is a colored population of 42,810

between the ages of five and twenty years, and a white population of

7,608 of the same ages. In fact, the Negro school population of Wilcox

and the seven adjoining counties is as follows: Wilcox, 11,623; Dallas,

18,292; Lowndes, 13,044; Monroe, 5,615; Butler, 5,924; Marengo, 12,362;

Clark, 6,898; Perry, 10,723; making a total of 85,499. Speaking of

public schools in the sense that educators use the term, the colored

people in this section have none. Of course, there are so-called public

schools here and there, running from three to five months in the year

and paying the teachers from $7.50 to $18 per month; but the teachers

are incompetent, and the schools are usually in the hands of those not

too much interested in the cause of education. Many of these trustees do

not visit the schools once in ten years, and they know absolutely

nothing of the methods of discipline even used by the teachers.

Our trip through this section revealed the following facts: (1) That

while many opportunities were denied our people, they abused many

privileges; (2) that there was a colored population, in this section

visited, of more than 200,000, and a school population of 85,499; (3)

that the people were ignorant and superstitious; (4) that the teachers

and preachers for the most part were of the same condition; (5) that

there were no public or private libraries and reading-rooms to which

they had access; (6) that, strictly speaking, there were no public

schools and only one private one. Now what can be expected of any people

in such a condition? Can the blind lead the blind? They could not in the

days of old, and it is not likely that they can now.

After this trip through the "Black Belt" I was more convinced than ever

before of the great need of an industrial school in the very midst of

these people; a school that would correct the erroneous ideas the people

held of education; a school that would put most stress upon the things

which the people were most likely to have to do with through life; a

school that would endeavor to make education practical rather than

theoretical; a school that would train men and women to be good workers,

good leaders, good husbands, good wives, and finally train them to be

fit citizens of the State, and proper subjects for the kingdom of God.

With this idea the Snow Hill Normal and Industrial Institute was started

ten years ago in an old, dilapidated, one-room log cabin with one

teacher, three students, and no State appropriation, and without any

church or society responsible for one dollar of its expenses. Aside

from this unfortunate state of affairs, the condition of the people was

most miserable. This was due partly to poor crops and partly to bad

management on their part.

In many instances the tenants were not only unable to pay their debts,

but were also unable to pay their rents. In a few cases the landlords

had to provide, at their own expense, provisions for their tenants. This

was simply another way of establishing soup-houses on the plantations.

The idea of buying land was foreign to all of them, and there were not

more than twenty acres of land owned by the colored people in this whole

neighborhood. The churches and schools were practically closed, while

crime and immorality were rampant. The carrying of men and women to the

chain-gang was a frequent occurrence. Aside from all this, these people

believed that the end of education was to free their children from

manual labor rather than prepare them for more and better work. They

were very much opposed to industrial education. When the school was

started, many of the parents came to the school and forbade our

"working" their children, stating as their objection that their children

had been working all their lives, and they did not mean to send them to

school to learn to work. Not only did they forbid our having their

children work, but many took their children out of school rather than

have them do so. A good deal of this opposition was kept up by

illiterate preachers and incompetent teachers, here and there, who had

not had any particular training for their profession. In fact,

ninety-eight per cent of them had attended no school. We continued,

however, to keep the "industrial plank" in our platform, and year after

year some additional industry was added until we now have thirteen

industries in constant operation. Agriculture is the foremost and basic

industry of the institution. We do this because we are in a farming

section and ninety-five per cent of the people in this section depend

upon some form of agriculture for a livelihood. How changed are the

conditions now as regards our work! From the little one-room log cabin,

the school has grown so that it now owns 100 acres of land, 14

buildings, counting large and small, with property valued at $37,000.

From three students, it has grown so that we now have a school with more

than four hundred students annually in attendance, representing more

than a dozen Alabama counties and seven States. It has also grown from

one to twenty teachers and officers. Including the class that graduated

last term, thirty-seven have finished the course. All are living but

one. No charge of criminal wrong-doing has been brought against even one

of them. One of the young women is married to the head teacher, another

to the superintendent of industries, and seven other graduates are

employed in responsible positions by the school. One of these has taken

a special course at Harvard University, three have taken additional

courses at Tuskegee, one is in charge of the woman's department of a

large school in Mississippi, two have founded schools of their own, one

at Tilden, Ala., the other at Greensboro, Ala. All have remained in the

country among the masses whom they are helping to uplift, and most of

them in Wilcox County, the county in which the school is located. Of the

thirty-seven graduates, twenty-seven own their own homes. Aside from the

graduates, about five hundred others have been under the influence of

the school for a longer or shorter period; many of these are making

exceptionally good records.

The growth on the part of the people has kept corresponding pace with

the growth of the institution. The farmers, who ten years ago depended

wholly on the landlords for food supplies, have grown to be independent,

raising most of their own supplies. They are rapidly passing from the

renters' class to the owners' class; they are possessing themselves of

the soil. This may be seen from the fact that ten years ago they owned

in this county but twenty acres of land; to-day they own 4,000 acres of

land. Many of the most prosperous farmers have opened bank-accounts. The

people no longer oppose industrial education; they now refuse to send

their children to any school where they can not secure some industrial

education.

For our part we find it wholly impossible to accommodate all who come to

us from time to time to take the trades' instruction. The churches

hereabout have been revived, new and better schoolhouses have been

built, and the county school terms extended in many cases from two and

three to five and six months; competent teachers and preachers, both

intellectually and morally, have been employed. Crime and immorality are

being uprooted, and virtue and civic righteousness are being planted in

their stead. The commercial and economic conditions have improved in

every way, and there was never a more cordial relation existing between

the races in this section than now. With these things true, the one-room

log cabin can not survive, and is rapidly giving way to houses having

three, four, and, in some places, six and seven rooms.

After having been here at Snow Hill for a few years, we felt that while

we were helping the children in the class-room, something should be done

to help the parents; so we organized what we call the Snow Hill Negro

Conference, on January 13, 1897. This conference is modeled after the

famous Tuskegee Negro Conferences, and meets once a year. At this

conference the farmers from this and the adjoining counties come

together. There were 500 at our last conference. The school is almost

wholly given up to farmers on Conference day. Here we listen to

educational, religious, moral, and financial reports from many sections.

Those who have succeeded, tell the others how they have done so, and

those who have not succeeded tell how they are trying to succeed. From

these annual meetings the farmers get new ideas, new information, and

take fresh courage; they return to their farms more determined to

succeed than ever before. When we commenced these meetings the reports

were discouraging, and from many sections the condition of the race

thereabout seemed hopeless. Many said that in the same section they

could not buy land at any price. There were only twenty acres of land

reported at the first conference. At the last one, reports showed that

the people had purchased more than four thousand acres since the

beginning of these conferences seven years ago. At our first meeting the

reports showed that the one-room log-cabin home was the rule; at our

last meeting it had become the exception. These conferences have tried

all along to induce the people to raise more of their own food-supplies.

We also waged a ceaseless war upon the one-room log-cabin home, which

has resulted in almost annihilating them. This war shall never cease

until there is not a one-room log cabin left in all this section. The

one-room log cabin is a pestilent menace to decent living.

Following the farmers' conference, we have the workers' conference

during vacation. This conference is chiefly composed of teachers and

preachers, and represents an idea got from Tuskegee. In this conference

we get a clear idea of what the teachers and preachers are doing, the

methods they are pursuing, and the results being achieved. The teachers

are encouraged to make education less theoretical and more practical;

the preachers are urged to preach to our people less of the dying

religion and more of the living religion. While they are encouraged to

build better schoolhouses and churches, they are also reminded of the

fact that these are not the ends, but only the means to an end; that

they are only of value in proportion as they can be used to build up a

hopeful and noble life in the communities where they are located.

However much the material side may be held up to them, they are told

that in the last analysis the spiritual is always the end. The reports

at our last Workers' Conference were most encouraging. Wherever the

intelligent teacher and preacher have gone, the condition of the people

has been improved. To my mind this demonstrates most clearly that the

great need of our people is intelligent leaders, and it is this that we

ask for; it is this for which Snow Hill is striving. While much good is

being accomplished through the Workers' Conference, the "Black Belt

Improvement Society," which I have organized, deals more directly with

the people in our immediate neighborhood. The aim of this society is

clearly set forth in its constitution, a part of which is as follows:

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