The fig tree is easily propagated by the methods commonly practiced with
fruit trees. It may be budded or grafted, but is most readily grown from
cuttings. These may be planted where the trees are to stand or rooted in
the nursery rows and transplanted later to the orchard site. Which
method is advisable for any particular site depends upon the conditions
there. If the soil and climatic conditions of the proposed location are
favorable to the uninterrupted growth of cuttings, it is better and
cheaper to plant them directly in the field. If there is any doubt on
these points, or if the proper care and attention can not be given them,
the better plan is to plant trees with good roots and well-formed heads,
grown under favorable conditions by a nurseryman. The best time for
making cuttings is after the leaves have fallen, when the fig tree is
comparatively dormant. Cuttings may be made of either one year or two
year old wood. If the cuttings are to be planted where they can remain,
2-year-old wood is preferable, as longer cuttings can be secured, but if
they are to be planted in nursery, yearling wood is best. In either case
the wood when freshly cut should disclose a moist surface, covered with
small, whitish, milky drops. If dry when cut, it should be discarded.
The length of the cutting must be regulated by the condition of the
soil. If this is moist and likely to remain so the cuttings may be 12 to
18 inches long. If the surface soil is dry, the cutting should be
sufficiently long to have its lower end in moist soil. On very dry soils
this may require a cutting 3 or 4 feet in length, though such long
cuttings are rarely needed, and in no case except when they are to be
planted directly in the orchard. In making the cuttings care should be
observed that the lower cut be made just below a joint or node and the
upper one just above a joint. The best cutting is one which terminates
in a bud and has a smooth, clean cut just below a joint at its base. No
matter what the length of the cutting, it should always be planted so
deeply that but one joint protrudes above the surface of the soil. This
will prevent the drying out of the cutting by the action of sun and
wind. It is better to have the top bud covered with earth than to leave
a high stump projecting above the surface.
Fig trees may be grown from single eyes or short tips, in boxes filled
with moist sand, set in frames and covered with cloth to keep the soil
moist and cool. These will make fine trees in time, but they generally
require to be a year older than those grown from large cuttings before
they are suitable for planting in orchard. Great care should be
exercised in removing fig cuttings or plants from one place to another.
They dry out readily and a few moments’ exposure to the sun or hot, dry
wind will seriously damage them. They should never be allowed to become
dry, and should be wrapped in wet sacks or cloths as soon as taken from
the trees or from the propagating bed. Cuttings partially dry may be
revived by soaking in water, but fig roots once dry are dead and
incapable of restoration to life.