CONCLUDING REMARKS
Obstacles that attend travelling into the interior of
Australia--Difficulty of carrying supplies--Importance of steady
intelligent subordinates--Danger from the natives--Number of men
requisite,--and of cattle and carriages--Provisions--Other
arrangements--Treatment of the natives--Dimensions of the boat used in
the second expedition.
Having now had considerable experience in the fitting out and
management of expeditions in New South Wales, I cannot refrain from
making some few observations on the subject. And without presuming to
lay dawn any fixed rules, I shall only refer to those by which I have
best succeeded, in hopes that some of my remarks may prove of use to
future travellers who may venture to penetrate into the trackless
deserts over so small a portion of which I wandered.
DIFFICULTIES OF EXPLORING AUSTRALIA.
The great difficulty of examining the interior of Australia, is that of
carrying supplies; for increasing the number of individuals composing
an expedition is of no avail, since an additional number of men must
necessarily increase the consumption of food. In order to meet this
difficulty it has been proposed to establish depots upon which an
expedition could fall back to recruit its supplies, and in ordinary
cases this plan might answer; but I am decidedly of opinion that no
party could long remain stationary in the distant interior without some
fatal collision with the natives, which would be attended with the most
deplorable consequences; and I do think, considering all things, that
the experiment is too dangerous to be tried; for when I reached Mount
Harris, on my first retreat from the Darling, I found the party who
were awaiting me, with a supply of provisions, under very great alarm,
in consequence of the hostile proceedings of the Mount Harris tribe.
The men had been obliged to put the camp into a state of defence. The
blacks had attempted to surprise them, and would, had I not returned,
have combined in some general attack. It appears to me that the most
judicious plan would be to send a supply of provisions, with an
expedition, to a distant point, under the charge of a minor party.
These provisions could replace those already expended, and the animals
that carried them could be taken back.
SELECTION OF SUBORDINATES.
The number of individuals of which the expedition down the banks of the
Macquarie was composed, was fourteen: that is to say, myself, Mr. Hume,
two soldiers, one free man, and seven prisoners of the crown. The
latter behaved, on all occasions, as steadily as it was possible for
men to do. Yet the circumstance of the two soldiers being with me
increased my confidence in the whole, for I was aware that their
example would influence the rest. However well disposed the prisoners
of the crown may be, (as in this instance they certainly were,) the
beneficial example of steady discipline cannot be denied. I should not
have considered myself justified in leaving the camp as I did for a
week, and in detaching Mr. Hume at the same time when at the bottom of
the marshes, or in making the last effort to maintain our position on
the banks of the Darling, if I had not reposed every confidence in the
man to whom I entrusted the safety of the camp during my absence.
Experience, therefore, of the value of the two soldiers, whom General
Darling was good enough to permit me to take on the strength of the
party, fully bears me out in recommending that one man, at least, of
general responsibility shall be attached to all future expeditions. The
success of an expedition depends so much on the conduct of the persons
of whom it is composed, that too much attention cannot be given to the
selection even of the most subordinate. Men of active intelligent
minds, of persevering habits, and of even temper, should be preferred
to mechanics who do not possess these most requisite qualities. On the
other hand, it is impossible to do without a good carpenter, however
defective he may be in other respects. I was indebted to Mr. Maxwell,
the superintendent of Wellington Valley, for some excellent men, both
on my first and on my second journey, because he understood the nature
of the service for which they were required, and the characters of
those whom he recommended. But however well selected the party, or the
men rather, might be, I still consider a man of general responsibility
necessary for its complete organisation. I would have him somewhat
superior to the rest in his station in life. Him I would hold
answerable for the immediate discipline of the camp, whilst I was
present, and for its safety when absent. The assistant to the leader I
would put entirely out of the question. He has other and most important
duties to perform. I would rate this man wholly independent of him.
DANGER OF COLLISION WITH THE NATIVES.
In reference to what I have already said with regard to the natives, it
was supposed that they were so little to be apprehended, that when I
went on the first occasion into the interior, I applied for a limited
number of men only, under an impression that with a few men I could
carry provisions equal to a consumption of a greater number, and by
this means be enabled to keep the field for a greater length of time.
But I do not think it would be safe to penetrate into the distant
country with fewer than fifteen men, for although, happily, no rupture
has as yet taken place with the natives, yet, there is no security
against their treachery, and it is very certain that a slight cause
might involve an expedition in inextricable difficulty, and oblige the
leader to throw himself on the defensive, when far away from other
resources than those with which he should have provided himself, and
that, perhaps, when navigating a close and intricate river, with all
the dangers and perplexities attendant on such a situation. It is
absolutely necessary to establish nightly guards, not only for the
security of the camp, but of the cattle, and at the same time to have a
force strong enough to maintain an obstinate resistance against any
number of savages, where no mercy is to be expected. It will be borne
in mind, that there is a wide difference between penetrating into a
country in the midst of its population, and landing from ships for the
purpose of communication or traffic. Yet, how few voyages of discovery
have terminated without bloodshed! Boats while landing are covered by
their ships, and have succour within view; but not so parties that go
into unknown tracts. They must depend on their immediate resources and
individual courage alone.
PACK-OXEN, HORSES, WHEEL-CARRIAGES.
With regard to the animals, I should recommend an equal number of
horses as of bullocks; since it has been found that the latter, though
slow, travel better over swampy ground than horses, which, on the other
hand, are preferable for expeditious journeys, to which bullocks would
never be equal. One of the colonial pack-saddles weighs fifty pounds
complete, and is preferable to those sent out from England. This, with
a load of 250 lbs. is sufficient for any animal, since it enables the
men to place a part of their provisions with the general loads. The
difficulty of keeping the backs of the animals free from injury, more
especially where any blemish has before existed, is exceedingly great.
They should undergo an examination twice a-day, that is, in the morning
prior to moving off, and in the afternoon before they are turned out to
feed; and measures should then be taken to ease them as circumstances
require. I never suffered the saddles to be removed from the backs of
the animals under my charge for twenty minutes after the termination of
the journey for the day, in order to guard against the effects of the
sun; and where the least swelling appeared the saddle was altered and
the place dressed. Yet, notwithstanding all this care and attention,
several both of the horses and bullocks were at one time in a sad
condition, during the first journey,--so much so as almost to paralyse
our efforts. It would be advisable that such animals as are entirely
free from blemish should be chosen for the service of expeditions, for,
with proper management they might be kept in order. The anxiety of mind
attendant on a bad state of the animals is really quite embarrassing,
for it not only causes a delay in the movements, but a derangement in
the loads. Other animals are overburdened, and there is no knowing
where the evil will stop.
In addition to the pack-animals, I would recommend the employment of a
dray or cart under any practicable circumstances. It serves to carry
necessary comforts, gives an expedition greater facility for securing
its collections, and is of inconceivable advantage in many other
respects.
ISSUE OF PROVISIONS.
Constant and most earnest attention should be paid to the issue of
provisions, on the discreet management of which so much depends, and
the charge of them should be committed to the second in command. The
most important articles are flour, tea, sugar, and tobacco. All should
be husbanded with extreme care, and weighed from time to time. The
flour is best carried in canvass bags, containing 100 pounds each, and
should at the termination of each day's journey, be regularly piled up
and covered with a tarpaulin. Tea, sugar and tobacco lose considerably
in weight, so that it is necessary to estimate for somewhat more than
the bare supply. With regard to the salt meat, the best mode of
conveying it appears to be in small barrels of equal weight with the
bags of flour. Salt pork is better than beef. It should be deprived of
all bones and be of the very best quality. I have heard spirits
recommended, but I do not approve their use. Tea is much more relished
by the men; indeed they could not do well without it. A small quantity
of spirits would, however, of course be necessary in the event of its
being required.
LIVE STOCK.
Mr. Cornelius O'Brien, an enterprising and long-established settler,
who has pushed his flocks and herds to the banks of the Morumbidgee,
was good enough to present me with eight wethers as I passed his
station. It may be some gratification to Mr. O'Brien to know, that they
contributed very materially to our comforts, and he will, perhaps,
accept my acknowledgements in this place, not only for so liberal a
present to myself, but for his attention and kindness to my men as long
as they remained in his neighbourhood. It was found that the sheep gave
but little additional trouble, requiring only to be penned at night, as
much to secure them from the native dogs as to prevent them from
straying away. They followed the other animals very quietly, and soon
became accustomed to daily movements. They proved a most available
stock; no waste attended their slaughter, and they admitted of a
necessary and wholesome change of fresh food from the general salt
diet, on which the men would otherwise have had to subsist.
The provisions should, if possible, be issued weekly, and their
diminution should be so regulated as to give an equal relief to the
animals.
For general information I have annexed a list of the supplies I took
with me on my first expedition. It may appear long, but the articles
were packed in a small compass, and their value immaterial.
As a precautionary measure I should advise, that one of the pack
animals be kept apart for the purpose of carrying water. Two casks of
equal weight are the best for such a purpose. In long and hot marches,
the men experience great relief from having water at hand.
INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES.
In reference to the natives, I hope sufficient has been said of the
manner of communicating with them to prevent the necessity of a
repetition here. The great point is not to alarm their natural
timidity: to exercise patience in your intercourse with them; to treat
them kindly; and to watch them with suspicion, especially at night.
Never permit the men to steal away from the camp, but keep them as
compact as possible; and at every station so arrange your drays and
provisions that they may serve as a defence in case of your being
attacked.
The natives appeared to me to be indifferent to our presents, in most
cases. Tomahawks, knives, pieces of iron, and different coloured
ribbons for the forehead, were most esteemed by them. They will barter
and exchange their fish for articles, and readily acquire confidence.
I believe I have now touched on all the more important points: on minor
ones no observation I can make will be of use; men must, in many
things, be guided by circumstances.
* * * * *
WHALE BOAT EMPLOYED ON THE SECOND EXPEDITION.
I may here notice that, in my second expedition, as it was anticipated
that I should require adequate provision for water conveyance, at one
stage or other of my journey down the Morumbidgee, I was furnished with
a whale-boat, the dimensions of which are given below. She was built by
Mr. Egan, the master builder of the dock-yard and a native of the
colony, and did great credit to his judgment. She carried two tons and
a half of provisions, independently of a locker, which I appropriated
for the security of the arms, occupying the space between the
after-seat and the stern. She was in the first instance put together
loosely, her planks and timbers marked, and her ring bolts, &c. fitted.
She was then taken to pieces, carefully packed up, and thus conveyed in
plank into the interior, to a distance of four hundred and forty miles,
without injury. She was admirably adapted for the service, and rose as
well as could have been expected over the seas in the lake. It was
evident, however, that she would have been much safer if she had had
another plank, for she was undoubtedly too low. The following were her
dimensions:--
Breadth across 7th timber aft, 5 ft. 1/2 an inch outside.
Across 12th timber, 5 ft. 11 1/4 in.
Across 17th timber forward, 5 ft.
25 ft. 8 in. in length inside.
Curve of the keel No. 1, from the after side of each apron, 3 ft. 3 3/4in.
No. 2, from head to head of the dead wood, 13 1/2 in.
No. 3, from one end of keel to the other inner side, 3 in.
No. 4, round of keel from the toe of each dead wood, 7/8 1/16th.
The timbers were marked, beginning from the stern to the bow on the
starboard side, and from bow to stern on the larboard.
APPENDIX No. I.
LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS.
By His Excellency Lieutenant General Ralph Darling, Commanding His
Majesty's Forces, Captain-General and Governor-in-Chief of the
Territory of New South Wales, and its dependencies, and Vice Admiral of
the same, &c. &c. &c.
TO CHARLES STURT, ESQ. CAPTAIN IN THE 39TH REGIMENT OF FOOT.
Whereas it has been judged expedient to fit out an expedition for the
purpose of exploring the interior of New Holland, and the present dry
season affords a reasonable prospect of an opportunity of ascertaining
the nature and extent of the large marsh or marshes which stopped the
progress of the late John Oxley Esq, Surveyor General, in following the
courses of the rivers Lachlan and Macquarie in the years 1817 and 1818.
And whereas I repose full confidence in your abilities and zeal for
conducting such an expedition, I do hereby constitute and appoint you
to command and take charge of the expedition now preparing for the
purpose of exploring the interior of the country, and for ascertaining,
if practicable, the nature and extent of the marsh or marshes above
mentioned.
In the prosecution of this service, you will be guided generally by the
following instructions.
1. You will be accompanied on this expedition by Mr. Hamilton Hume,
whose great experience in travelling through the remote parts of the
Colony, cannot fail to be highly useful to you. You will also be
attended by two soldiers and six convicts, of whom one is to understand
the shoeing of horses, one to be a carpenter, one a harness-maker and
three stock-men, and you will be provided with six horses and twelve
bullocks.
2. A small boat has been built here for the use of the expedition, and
for its conveyance, there is provided a light four-wheeled carriage to
be drawn by two bullocks.
The deputy Commissary General has received orders for supplying the
expedition with provisions of the best quality sufficient for six
months' consumption, together with tents, blankets, clothing,
pack-saddles, utensils, instruments, tools, and necessaries of all
kinds of which you are likely to stand in need. Orders are also given
for providing you with arms and ammunition, with rockets for signals,
and an ample supply of simple medicines--You are to consider it an
important duty to attend to the providing of all these supplies, and to
take care that not only every article is of the best quality that can
be procured, but also that no article be wanting with which you may
desire to be provided.
3. Orders are given for forwarding without delay all your provisions,
stores and supplies of every kind to Wellington Valley, at which place,
you, Mr. Hume, and all your men are to rendezvous as soon as possible.
Mr Maxwell, the superintendent, will furnish you with well-trained
bullocks, and afford you all the assistance you may require in
arranging every thing for your departure from that station.
4. After you shall have completed all your arrangements, you are to
lose no time in finally departing from Wellington Valley in prosecution
of the immediate objects of the expedition.
5. You are first to proceed to Mount Harris, where you are to form a
temporary depot, by means of which you will have an opportunity of more
readily communicating with Mr. Maxwell.
6. You are then to endeavour to determine the fate of the Macquarie
River, by tracing it as far as possible beyond the point to which Mr.
Oxley went, and by pushing westward, you are to ascertain if there be
any high lands in that direction, or if the country be, as it is
supposed, an unbroken level and under water. If you should fail in
these objects, you will traverse the plains lying behind our north-west
boundaries, with a view to skirt any waters by which you may have been
checked to the westward; and if you should succeed in skirting them,
you are to explore the country westward and southward as far as
possible, endeavouring to discover the Macquarie beyond the marsh of
Mr. Oxley, and following it to its mouth if at all practicable.
7. There is some reason to believe that the over-flowing of the
Macquarie when visited by Mr. Oxley, was occasioned by heavy rains
falling in the mountains to the eastward, and that as you are to visit
the same spot at a different season of the year, you may escape such
embarrassment; but although you should get beyond the point at which
Mr. Oxley stopped, it would not be prudent to risk your own health or
that of your men, by continuing long in a swampy country. Therefore it
may be advisable for you in the first instance to leave the greater
part of your men, bullocks, and baggage, at Mount Harris, and if you
should see a probability of your being able to cross into the interior,
you will then return to Mount Harris for such additional supplies as
you may judge necessary. You can there communicate with Mr. Maxwell
respecting any ulterior arrangements which you may be desirous of
making.
8. The success of the expedition is so desirable an object, that I
cannot too strongly impress upon you the importance of perseverance in
endeavouring to skirt any waters or marshes which may check your course
as long as you have provisions sufficient for your return; but you must
be cautious not to proceed a single day's journey further than where
you find that your provisions will be barely sufficient to enable you
to reach the nearest place at which you can depend upon getting
supplies.
9. If after every endeavour you should find it totally impracticable to
get to the westward, you are still to proceed northward, keeping as
westerly a direction as possible; and when the state of your provisions
will oblige you to retreat, you will be guided by your latitude, as to
the place to which you are to make the best of your way, but you are
not to make for any place on the coast, if Wellington valley should
still be nearer.
10. You must be aware that the success of the expedition will greatly
depend upon the time for which your provisions will hold out, and
therefore you will see the great importance of observing every possible
economy in the expenditure of provisions, and preventing waste of every
kind.
11. You are to keep a detailed account of your proceedings in a
journal, in which all observations and occurrences of every kind, with
all their circumstances, however minute, are to be carefully noted
down. You are to be particular in describing the general face of all
the country through which you pass, the direction and shape of the
mountains, whether detached or in ranges, together with the bearings
and estimated distances of the several mountains, hills, or eminences
from each other. You are likewise to note the nature of the climate, as
to heat, cold, moisture, winds, rains, &c., and to keep a register of
the temperature from Fahrenheit's thermometer, as observed at two or
three periods of each day. The rivers, with their several branches,
their direction, velocity, breadth, and depth, are carefully to be
noted. It is further expected that you will, as far as may be in your
power, attend to the animal, vegetable, and mineral productions of the
country, noting down every thing that may occur to you, and preserving
specimens as far as your means will admit, especially some of all the
ripe seeds which you may discover; when the preservation of specimens
is impossible, drawings or detailed accounts of them, are very
desirable.
12. You will note the description of the several people whom you may
meet, the extent of the population, their means of subsistence, their
genius and disposition, the nature of their amusements, their diseases
and remedies, their objects of worship, religious ceremonies, and a
vocabulary of their language.
Lastly. On your return from your journey, you are to cause all the
journals or other written documents belonging to, and curiosities
collected by the several individuals composing the expedition, to be
carefully sealed up with your own seal and kept in that state until you
shall have made your report to me in writing of the result of the
expedition.
Given at Sydney, this eighteenth day of November, 1828. By Command of
His Excellency the Governor, ALEXANDER M'LEAY.
APPENDIX No. II.
LIST OF STORES SUPPLIED FOR THE EXPEDITION.
List of Articles delivered from His Majesty's Stores, in charge of D.
A. C. Goodsir, to Captain Sturt, viz.--
1 Hack saddle. 9 Harness casks.
1 Bridle. 23 Canvas bags.
2 Tents. 4 Tin cases.
14 Pack saddles. 16 Padlocks.
14 Pair hobbles. 6 Tarpaulens.
24 Sets horse shoes. 10 Haversacks.
2000 Horse nails. 113 Fathom one-inch rope.
113 Fathoms 1 1/2 inch rope. 1 Boat compass.
1 Hammer, (Blacksmith's) 1 Telescope.
1 Paring knife. 1 Spare glass for ditto.
2 Chipping do. 1 Tin case (for charts.)
2 Rasps. 100 Fish-hooks, (large.)
1 Pair pincers. 12 Fishing-lines.
1 Cutter. 10 Knives.
2lb. Pack thread. 10 Forks.
24 Needles. 10 Spoons.
1/4lb. Bristles. 2 Frying-pans.
7lbs. Leather. 2 Tinder-boxes.
1/2lb. Thread. 1 Tea-kettle, (tin.)
1 Pair of steelyards. 10 Tin dishes.
10 Tin pots. 8 Jackets.
1 Flour seive. 8 Duck frocks.
2 Felling-axes. 8 Shirts.
4 Tomahawks. 16 Trousers.
2 Hammers. 24 Pair shoes.
1 Hand-saw. 16 Blankets.
3 Bill-hooks. 16 Pair stockings.
3 Awls. 2 Bullock collars.
3 Broad hoes. 2 Do. back-bands and pipes.
4 Razors. 2 Leading cruppers.
4 Brushes. 1 Boat with sail and oars.
4 Combs. 1 Do. carriage.
3 Iron pots, (camp kettles.) 1 Canvass boat-cover.
1 Pair scissors. 3 Water breaker.
COMMISSARIAT OFFICE, SYDNEY, NOV. 10TH, 1828.
P.S.--l Tarpaulin.
Large Fish-hook.
1 Tin tea-kettle.
1 Camp kettle.
Pitch and oil.
Hemp or twine.
APPENDIX No. III.
SHEEP-FARMING RETURNS, SHOWING THE INCREASE IN FOUR YEARS, from two
Breeding Flocks, consisting of 670 Ewes in Lamb.
(A.)--1st JUNE, 1828.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks. Breeding Ewes. Lambs. Total. Remarks.
2 yrs. old. 3 yrs. old. Male.-Female.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lambs.
No. 1 330 148 149 627 Deaths 6. Incr.297
No. 2 330 154 154 638 4 308
---- -- ---
* 1265 10 605
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
* The increase throughout these returns is calculated at from 270 to 290
Lambs, to 300 Ewes, which is the usual average in N.S.W.
ABSTRACT.
Purchased two Flocks of Ewes, at 84s.............................670 Ewes.
Increase of Lambs.......................................... 605
Casual Deaths............................................... 10
595
---
Total as per Return............................................ 1265
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(B.)--1st JUNE, 1829.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks.
| Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.|
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Lambs.
1 3-yr. 327 154 154 635 Deaths 3 Incr.308
2 4-yr. 326 155 155 636 4 310
3 1-yr. 302 302 1 ---
4 1-yr. 302 18 320 -- 618
---- 8
1893
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ABSTRACT.
Return (A) Total...............................................1265
Increase by Lambing....................................618
Ditto Rams purchased....................................18
---
636
Casual Deaths......................................... 8 628
----
Total as per return............................................1893
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(C.)--1st JUNE, 1830.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks.
| Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.|
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Lambs.
1 2-yr. 296 133 154 562 Deaths 6 Incr.266
2 4-yr. 325 150 155 625 2 300
3 5-yr. 326 160 646 320
4 2-yr. 302 27 329 ---
5 1-yr. 309 309 886
6 1-yr. 309 309 ---
---- 3 Rams died
2780 12 ditto purchased
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ABSTRACT.
Return (B) Total............................................ 1893
Increase by Lambing....................................886
Ditto Rams purchased....................................12
---
898
Deaths............................................... 11 887
----
Total as per return......................................... 2780
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(D.)--1st JUNE, 1831.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks.
| Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.|
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Lambs.
1 2-yr. 304 136 136 576 Deaths 5 Incr.272
2 3-yr. 293 135 136 564 3 271
3 5-yr. 324 156 156 636 1 312
4 6-yr. 320 156 156 632 2 312
Killed 4 ---
5 3-yr. 300 300 Deaths 2 1167
6 2-yr. 308 308 1
7 1-yr 443 443
8 1-yr 442 442 1
9 40 40 5
---- --
3941 20
Purchased 12
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ABSTRACT.
Return (C) Total............................................ 2780
Increase by Lambing...................................1167
Ditto Rams purchased....................................18
---
1185
Casual deaths 20 ...Killed for use 4 ................. 24 1161
----
Total as per return.......................................... 3941
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(E.)--1st JUNE, 1832.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flocks.|Breeding|Maiden|Wethers.|Rams.| Lambs. |Total.| Remarks.
| Ewes. | Ewes.| |Male. Female.|
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. Lambs.
1 2-yr. 344 154 154 652 Deaths 6 Incr.308
2 3-yr. 344 162 161 667 4 323
4 3-yr. 342 164 165 671 3 329
5 6-yr. 320 155 155 630 2 310
6 7-yr. 300 145 145 590 2 290
7 4-yr. 300 300 ----
1560
8 3-yr 302 302 2
9 2-yr 440 440 1
10 1-yr 583 583
11 1-yr 584 584
12 45 45 5 Purch. 10
---- ---- ---- --- --- --- ----
1650 584 1625 45 780 780 5464
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
ABSTRACT.
Return (D) Total............................................ 3941
Increase by Lambing...................................1560
Ditto Rams purchased....................................10
---
1570
Decrease by casual death .............................. 25
Decrease by slaughter for use ......................... 22
---
1523
----
Grand Total .............................. 5464 as above
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEMORANDUM,--The deaths have been calculated at the lowest rate under the
best management. It may be safer to assume a rate of four or five per
cent. per annum.
Account of Expenditure and Income upon Sheep Stock in Australia,
appended to Returns A. B. C. D. and E.
1st YEAR, (RETURN A.) JUNE, 1829.
INCOME.
By 11265 fleeces, average weight 2 1/4 lbs. 284 lbs
wool at 1s. 6d. per lb. 213 9 0
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 1 Watchman at 20 20 0 O PROFIT.
To Hurdles, &c. 10 0 0
-------- 90 0 0
-------- 123 9 0
2nd YEAR, (B.) JUNE, 1830.
INCOME.
By 1893 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 4259lbs. wool at
1s. 6d. 319 8 6
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 2 Ditto 20 40 0 0
To 1 Watchman 20 0 0
To Hurdles &c. 5 0 0
---------
125 0 0
To 18 Rams at 10 pounds* 180 0 0
---------
305 0 0
---------
14 8 6
*The price of rams will probably fall to 5 pounds
3rd YEAR, (C.) JUNE, 1831.
INCOME.
By 2780 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 6255lbs. wool at
1s. 6d. 469 2 6
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 2 Ditto 25 25 0 0
To 3 Ditto 20 60 0 0
To 2 Watchman 20 40 0 0
To Hurdles &c. 10 0 0
---------
195 0 0
To 12 Rams at 10 pounds 120 0 0
---------
315 0 0
---------
154 2 6
4th YEAR, (D.) JUNE, 1832.
INCOME.
By 3941 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 8867lbs. wool at
1s. 6d. 665 0 0
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 2 Ditto 25 50 0 0
To 4 Ditto 20 80 0 0
To 3 Watchman &c. 60 0 0
(one to take charge of rams)
To Hurdles &c. 10 0 0
---------
260 0 0
To 18 Rams at 10 pounds 180 0 0
---------
440 0 0
---------
225 0 0
5th YEAR, (E.) JUNE, 1833.*
INCOME.
By 5464 fleeces, at 2 1/4 lbs. 12,294 lbs. wool at
1s. 6d. 922 0 0
EXPENDITURE.
To 2 Shepherds at 30 pounds 60 0 0
To 3 Ditto 25 75 0 0
To 5 Ditto 20 100 0 0
To 3 Watchman 20 60 0 0
To Hurdles &c. 20 0 0
---------
315 0 0
To 10 Rams at 10 pounds 100 0 0
---------
415 0 0
---------
507 0 0
----------
Net profit by sales of wool in 5 years 1024 0 0
1024 0 0 divided by 5 gives 204 8 0 for annual interest on the
original capital of 2814 0 0, (about 7 1/4 percent per annum)
in addition to the accumulation of capital itself, shown by the
valuation of stock.
*These accounts are a year in advance of the sheep returns, in order to
bring them to the time at which the wool would be sold.
VALUATION OF SHEEP, JUNE, 1832----(RETURN E.)
1614 Ewes from 1 to 4 years old at 3 pounds each 4842 0 O
620 Do. 4 to 7 years old 2 1240 0 0
780 Female Lambs 2 1560 0 0
2405 Wethers and Male Lambs 15s. 1803 0 0
45 Rams (original cost, 450l.) 400 0 0
----------
9845 0 0
Note.--About 500 pounds would be added to the Income on the fifth year,
by the sale of wethers of 3 and 4 years old.
The cost of rams ought, strictly speaking, to be added to capital, and
not deducted from Income; but these returns were made out in their
present form at the request of a gentleman proceeding to the Colony
with a limited capital, and who wished to know how much he might safely
invest in sheep.
APPENDIX No. IV.
LIST OF GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED IN THE DISTANT INTERIOR DURING
THE FIRST EXPEDITION, WITH THEIR LOCALITIES AND THEIR RELATIVE
DISTANCES FROM EACH OTHER.
It may be necessary to observe that the height of the Cataract of the
Macquarie River above the sea, was ascertained by barometrical
admeasurement to be 650 feet. The country subsequently traversed is
considerably lower. The specimens refer only to the geological
formation of the distant interior.
Schorl Rock.--Colour blueish grey, fine grained, extremely hard.
Composed of Tourmaline and Quartz. Forms the bed of the Macquarie at
the Cataract, 75 miles to the N.W. of Wellington Valley.
Decomposed Mica Slate.--Colour white; yields to the knife; adheres
strongly to the tongue.
Decomposed Feldspar.--Colour pale rose-pink; very fine grained; easily
scratched with the knife; adheres strongly to the tongue.
Both specimens immediately succeed the Schorl rock at the Cataract, in
large smooth-sided masses.
This formation may be said to terminate the rocks connected with the
dividing ranges, since it is the last that occurs at their western base.
A little below the Cataract, the county undergoes a remarkable change,
and becomes extremely depressed.
Porphyry with Feldspar.--Colour dull red, with white spots, or grey
with red spots; very hard, compact, sonorous, magnetic. [See pp. 27 and
115.] Composition of Mount Harris, a hill called by Mr. Oxley, elevated
about 170 feet above the level of the plains. It lies 65 miles to the
N.N.W. of the Cataract, and is about 16 miles distant from the first of
the marshes of the Macquarie.
Porphyry with Feldspar.--Colour grey with red spots, similar to the
last. Was not observed to affect the needle. Formation of Mount Foster.
Mount Foster is more than 200 feet in height, and lies about 5 miles to
the N.N.W. of Mount Harris. From the summit of both, Arbuthnot's range
is visible, bearing nearly due east, distant 70 miles. [See page 28.]
Quartz Rock varieties--Slaty Quartz varieties.--Composition of the
first elevations to the Westward of the marshes of the Macquarie,
called New Year's Range, a group of five hills. The loftiest about 200
feet in elevation; distant about 80 miles to the N.W. of Mount Harris.
Granite.--Colour red, coarse-grained. Composed of Quartz, Feldspar, and
Mica.
Granite, Porphyritic.--Colour light red. Both occurring in the bed of
New Year's Creek, traversing it obliquely, and are visible for a few
hundred yards only. This granite occurs about 16 miles from the Range
in a N. by E. direction.
Old Red Sandstone.--Composition of Oxley's Table Land, 500 feet above
the level of the plains. It is broken into two hills, that appear to
have been separated by some convulsion. [See page 81.] It bears N.W. by
W. from New Year's Range, distant 50 miles.
Old Red Sandstone.--Composition of D'Urban's group. The highest
elevation ascended during the expedition, being nearly 600 feet above
the level of the plain in which it rises. It lies to the S.S.W. of
Oxley's Table Land, distant 40 miles, and the rock of which it is
composed is much harder and closer.
Breccia.--Colour pale yellow, silicious cement. Composition of some
trifling elevations to the North of New-Year's range, with which it is
doubtful whether they are connected.
Crystallized Sulphate of Lime.--Found imbedded in the alluvial soil
forming the banks of the Darling river. Occurring in a regular vein.
Soft, yielding to the nail; not acted on by acids.--See Plate.
Breccia.--Pale ochre colour, silicious cement, extremely hard.
Cellular, and sharp edges to the fractured pebbles. Has apparently
undergone fusion. Occurs in the bed of the Darling in one place only.
Sandstone Varieties.--Colour dull red and muddy white; appears like
burnt bricks; light, easily frangible; adheres to the tongue; occurs in
large masses in the bed of the Darling; probably in connection with the
rock-salt of the neighbourhood, which, from the number of brine springs
discovered feeding the river, must necessarily exist.
Variety of the same description of rock.
Jasper and Quartz.--Showing itself above the surface of a plain, from
which D'Urban's group bore S. 40 E. distant 33 miles.
It is a remarkable fact, that not a pebble or a stone was picked up
during the progress of the expedition, on any one of the plains; and
that after it again left Mount Harris for the Castlereagh, the only
rock-formation discovered was a small Freestone tract near the Darling
river. There was not a pebble of any kind either in the bed of the
Castlereagh, or in the creeks falling into it.
APPENDIX No. V.
OFFICIAL REPORTS TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
* * * * *
GOVERNMENT ORDER
COLONIAL SECRETARY'S OFFICE, 23RD JANUARY, 1829.
His Excellency the Governor has been pleased to order, that the
following communication, dated the 25th of December last, from Captain
Sturt, of the 39th Regiment, who is employed in an exploring expedition
into the interior of the country, be published for general information.
By his Excellency's Command,
ALEXANDER M'LEAY.
* * * * *
WESTERN MARSHES, 25TH DECEMBER, 1828.
SIR,--I do myself the honor to forward, for the Governor's perusal, a
copy of my journal up to the date of my arrival at Mount Harris. I
should not have directed the messenger to return so soon, had I not
subsequently advanced to Mount Foster, and surveyed the country from
that eminence. I could distinctly see Arbuthnot's Range to the
eastward. From that point the horizon appeared to me unbroken, but the
country to the northward and westward seemed to favour an attempt to
penetrate into it. I did not observe any sheet of water, and the course
of the Macquarie was lost in the woodlands below.
Mr. Hume ascended the hill at sun-rise, and thought he could see
mountains to the north east, but at such a distance as to make it quite
a matter of uncertainty. Agreeing, however, in the prudence of an
immediate descent, we left our encampment on the morning of the 23rd,
under Mount Foster, to which we had removed from Mount Harris, and
pursued a north-north-west course to the spot on which we rest at
present. We passed some fine meadow land near the river, and were
obliged to keep wide of it in consequence of fissures in the ground.
Traversing a large and blasted plain, on which the sun's rays fell with
intense heat, and on which there was but little vegetation, we skirted
the first great morass, and made the river immediately beyond it. It is
of very considerable extent, the channel of the river passing through
it. We are encompassed on every side by high reeds, which exist in the
woods as well as in the plains. Mr. Hume and myself rode forward
yesterday through the second morass, and made the river on slightly
elevated ground, at a distance of about five miles; the country beyond
appeared to favour our object, and we, to-morrow, proceed with the
party to the north-west. The river seems to bend to the north-east; but
in this level country it is impossible to speak with certainty, or to
give any decided opinion of the nature of it, beyond the flats on which
we are travelling. The reeds to the north-east and northward extend
over a circumference of fifty miles; but if Mr. Hume really saw
mountains or rising ground in the former point, the apparent course of
the Macquarie is at once accounted for. The country, however, seems to
dip to the north, though generally speaking it is level, and I am
inclined to think that the state of the atmosphere caused a deception
in this appearance.
I regret to add, that the effects of the sun on the plain over which we
passed on the 23rd produced a return of inflammation in the eyes of the
men, I have named in my journals, and caused the same in the eyes of
several others of my party. I halted, therefore, to expedite their
recovery. They are doing well now, and we can proceed in the cool of
the morning without any fear of their receiving injury by it. One of
the men, who were to return to Wellington Valley, was attacked slightly
with dysentery, but the medicines I gave him carried it off in the
course of a day or two. I have taken every precaution with regard to
the health of the men, in preparing them for the country into which
they are going; and I have to request that you will inform the governor
that the conduct of the whole party merits my approbation, and that I
have no fault to find. The men from Sydney are not so sharp as those
from Wellington Valley, but are equally well disposed. The animals,
both horses and bullocks, are in good order, and I find the two
soldiers of infinite service to me. The boat has received some damage
from exposure to intense heat, but is otherwise uninjured. We still
retain the carriage and have every prospect of dragging it on with us.
His Excellency, having been good enough to order a fresh supply of
provisions to Wellington Valley, I have to beg they may be forwarded to
Mount Harris, and that the person in charge thereof be instructed to
remain at that station for one month. We shall, during the interval,
have examined the country to the north-west; and, in case we are forced
back, shall require a supply to enable us to proceed to the northward,
in furtherance of the views I have already had the honor to submit for
the Governor's approval.
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your most obedient and humble Servant,
CHARLES STURT,
Captain, 39th Regt.
THE HONOURABLE THE COLONIAL SECRETARY
* * * * *
GOVERNMENT ORDER.
COLONIAL SECRETARY'S OFFICE, 6TH APRIL, 1829.
His Excellency the Governor is pleased to direct that the following
interesting Report which has been received from Captain Sturt, 39th
Regiment, who has been employed for some months past, (as will be seen
on reference to the Government Order, No. 4, published with Captain
Sturt's First Report in the Sydney Gazette, of the 24th of January
last) in exploring the interior, be communicated for the information of
the public.
It appears that the river Macquarie ceases to exist near the spot where
the expedition under the late Mr. Oxley terminated, which, from the
state of country at the time, being then flooded, could not be
ascertained; and that another river of no inconsiderable magnitude, fed
by salt springs, was discovered by Captain Sturt on the 2nd February
last, about 100 miles to the westward of the Macquarie, running to the
southward and westward.
By His Excellency's Command,
ALEXANDER M'LEAY.
* * * * *
MOUNT HARRIS, 4TH MARCH, 1829.
SIR,--I do myself the honor to acquaint you, for the information of His
Excellency the Governor, that I returned to this eminence on Monday,
the 23rd ult. having been driven from the interior, in consequence of
the extreme drought which prevails there.
I am to state, in reference to my former communication, that agreeably
to what I then reported, I moved, on the 26th December last, lower down
the plains of the Macquarie, but encountered a barrier of reeds, formed
by the marshes of that river, through which we in vain endeavoured to
force our way. I was in consequence obliged to make the nearest part of
the river to my left, and to take such measures as the nature of my
situation required. Here, for the first time, I set the boat afloat,
deeming it essential to trace the river, as I could not move upon its
banks, and wishing also to ascertain where it again issued from the
marshes, I requested Mr. Hume to proceed northerly, with a view to
skirt them, and to descend westerly, wherever he saw an open space. He
was fortunate enough to strike upon the channel about twelve miles
north of our position, but was obstructed in his further progress by
another marsh, in consequence of which he returned to the camp the next
day; in the mean time, I had taken the boat, and proceeded down the
Macquarie, my way being at first considerably obstructed by fallen
timber: clearing this obstacle, however, I got into a deeper channel,
with fine broad reaches, and a depth of from twelve to fifteen feet
water. I had a short time previously cleared all woods and trees, and
was now in the midst of reeds of great height. After proceeding onwards
for about eight miles from the place whence I started, my course was
suddenly and unexpectedly checked; I saw reeds before me, and expected
I was about to turn an angle of the river, but I found that I had got
to the end of the channel, and that the river itself had ceased to
exist. Confounded at such a termination to a stream, whose appearance
justified the expectation that it would have led me through the heart
of the marsh to join Mr. Hume, I commenced a most minute examination of
the place, and discovered two creeks, if they deserve the name,
branching, the one to the north-west, and the other to the north-east;
after tracing the former a short distance, I reached its termination,
and in order to assure myself that such was the case, I walked round
the head of it by pushing through the reeds; it being then too dark to
continue where I was, I returned to a place on the river, at which I
had rested during a shower, and slept there. In the morning I again
went to the spot to examine the north-eastern branch, when I was
equally disappointed. I then examined the space between the two creeks,
opposite to the main channel of the river, and where the bank receives
the force of the current. Here I saw water in the reeds, but it was
scarcely ankle deep, and was running off to the north-west quicker than
the waters of the river, which had almost an imperceptible motion, I
was therefore at once convinced that it was not permanent, but had
lodged there in the night, during which much rain had fallen. I next
pushed my way through the reeds into the marsh, and at length clearly
perceived that the waters which were perfectly sweet, after running
several courses, flowed off to the north, towards which point there was
an apparent declination or dip. Finding it impossible to proceed
further, I regained the boat, and thence returned to the camp, under a
conviction that I had reached the very spot, at which Mr. Oxley lost
the channel of the river in 1818.
The next day I moved to the place where Mr. Hume had struck upon the
channel of the river, but was again doubtful in what direction to
proceed.
The marsh, at the commencement of which we now found ourselves, being
the third from Mount Foster, but the second great one, seemed to extend
beyond us to the north for many miles, but varying in breadth. In the
evening I went in the boat up the channel, and found it at first, deep
and sullen, as that of the river above. It soon however, narrowed, and
the weeds formed over its surface, so that I abandoned the boat and
walked along a path up it. I had not gone far when the channel divided;
two smaller channels came, the one from the southern, and the other
from the western parts of the marsh into it. There was an evident
declination where they were, and it was at their junction the river
again rallied and formed. On my return to the camp, Mr. Hume and I went
down the river, but found that about a mile it lost itself, and spread
its waters ever the extensive marsh before it.
In this extremity, I knew not what movement to make, as Mr. Hume had
been checked in his progress north. I therefore determined to ascertain
the nature of the country to the eastward and to the westward, that I
might move accordingly; I proposed to Mr. Hume, to take a week's
provisions, with two attendants, and go to the north-east, in order
again to turn the marsh, but with the expectation that the angle formed
by the junction of the Castlereagh with the Macquarie would arrest its
progress, as the last was fast approaching the former.
I myself determined to cross the river, and to skirt the marshes on the
left, and in case they turned off to the north east, as they appeared
to do, it was my intention to pursue a N.W. course into the interior,
to learn the nature of it. With these views I left the camp on the 31st
of December, and did not return until the 5th of January. Having found
early in my journey, from the change of soil and of timber, that I was
leaving the neighbourhood of the Macquarie, I followed a N.W. course,
from a more northerly one, and struck at once across the country, under
an impression that Mr. Hume would have made the river again long before
my return. I found, after travelling between twenty and thirty miles,
the country began to rise; and at the end of my journey, I made a hill
of considerable elevation, from the summit of which I had a view of
other high lands; one to the S.W. being a very fine mountain. As I had
not found any water excepting in two creeks, which I had left far
behind me, and as I had got on a soil which appeared incapable of
holding it, I made this the termination of my journey, having exceeded
100 miles in distance from the camp, on my return to which I found Mr.
Hume still absent. When he joined, he stated to me, that not making the
Castlereagh as soon as he expected, he had bent down westerly for the
Macquarie, and that he ended his journey at some gentle hills he had
made; so that it appeared we must either have crossed each other's line
of route, or that they were very near, and that want of length must
alone have prevented them from crossing; but as such all assumption led
to the conclusion that the Macquarie no longer existed, I determined to
pursue a middle course round the swamps, to ascertain the point; as in
case the river had ended, a westerly course was the one which my
instructions directed me to pursue.
In the immediate neighbourhood of the marshes we were obliged to sink
wells for water, and it was thus early that we began to feel the want
of a regular supply.
Having made a creek about four miles from our position by cutting
through the reeds where there was a narrow space, we pursued a westerly
course over a plain, having every appearance of frequent inundation,
and for four or five days held nearly the same direction; in the course
of which we crossed both our tracks on the excursions we had made,
which had intersected each other in a dense oak brush; thus renewing
the few doubts, or rather the doubt we had as to the fate of the
Macquarie, whose course we had been sent to trace. Indeed, had I not
felt convinced that that river had ceased, I should not have moved
westward without further examination, but we had passed through a very
narrow part of the marshes, and round the greater part of them, and had
not seen any hollow that could by any possible exaggeration be
construed into or mistaken for the channel of a river.
It appears, then, that the Macquarie, flowing as it does for so many
miles, through a bed, and not a declining country, and having little
water in it, except in times of flood, loses its impetus long ere it
reaches the formidable barrier that opposes its progress northwards;
the soil in which the reeds grow being a stiff clay. Its waters
consequently spread, until a slight declivity giving them fresh
impulse, they form a channel again, but soon gaining a level, they lose
their force and their motion together, and spread not only over the
second great marsh, but over a vast extent of the surrounding country,
the breadth of ground thus subject to inundation being more than twenty
miles, and its length considerably greater; around this space there is
a gentle rise which confines the waters, while small hollows in various
directions lead them out of the marshes over the adjacent plains, on
which they eventually subside. On my return from the interior, I
examined those parts round which I had not been, with particular
attention, partly in company with Mr. Hume, and this statement was
confirmed by what we saw. Thus, at a distance of about twenty-five
miles from Mount Foster to the N.N.W. the river Macquarie ceases to
exist, in any shape as a river, and at a distance of between fifty and
sixty, the marshes terminate, though the country subject to inundation
from the river is of a very considerable extent, as shown by the
withered bulrushes, wet reeds, and shells, that are scattered over its
surface.
Having executed the first part of the instructions with which I had
been honoured, I determined on pursuing a west, or north-west course
into the interior, to ascertain the nature of it, in fulfilment of the
second, but in doing this I was obliged to follow creeks, and even on
their banks had to carry a supply of water, so uncertain was it that we
should meet with any at the termination of our day's journey, and that
what we did find would be fit to drink. Our course led us over plains
immediately bordering the lower lands of the Macquarie, alternating
with swamp oak, acacia pendula, pine, box, eucalyptus, and many other
trees of minor growth, the soil being inclined to a red loam, while the
plains were generally covered with a black scrub, though in some places
they had good grass upon them. We crossed two creeks before we made the
hills Mr. Hume had ascended, and which he called New Year's Range.
Around these hills the country appeared better--they are gentle,
picturesque elevations, and are for the most part, covered with
verdure, and have, I fancy, a whinstone base, the rock of which they
are composed being of various substances. I place New Year's Range in
lat. 30 degrees 21 minutes, long. 146 degrees 3 minutes 30 seconds. Our
course next lying north-west along a creek, led us to within twenty
miles of the hill that had terminated my excursion, and as I hoped that
a more leisurely survey of the country from its summit would open
something favourable to our view, I struck over for it, though
eventually obliged to return. From it Mr. Hume and I rode to the S.W.
mountain, a distance of about forty miles, without crossing a brook or
a creek, our way leading through dense acacia brushes, and for the most
part over a desert. We saw high lands from this mountain, which exceeds
1,300 feet in elevation, and is of sandstone formation, and thickly
covered with stunted pine, in eight different points--the bearings of
which are as follows:--
Oxley's Table Land, N. 40 E., distant 40 miles.
Kengall Hill, due E. very distant.
Conical Hill, S. 60 E.
Highland, S.E. distance 30 miles.
Highland, S. 30 E. distance 25 miles.
Long Range, S. 16 E. distance 60 miles.
Long Range, S. 72 W. distance 60 miles.
Distant Range, S. 25 W. supposed.
It was in vain, however, that we looked for water. The country to the
north-west, was low and unbroken, and alternated with wood and plain.
The country from New Year's Range to the hill I had made, and which I
called Oxley's Table Land, had been very fair, with good soil in many
places, but with a total want of water, except in the creeks, wherein
the supply was both bad and uncertain; on our second day's journey from
the former, we came to the creek on which we were moving, where it had
a coarse granite bottom. The country around it improved very much in
appearance, and there was abundance of good grass on the surface of it,
in spite of the drought. On the right of this creek, a large plain
stretches parallel to it for many miles, varying in quality of soil.
Near Oxley's Table Land, we passed over open forest, the prevailing
timber of which was box. I have placed Oxley's Table Land in latitude
29 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 43 minutes 30
seconds.
Finding it impracticable to move westward from the hill I again
descended on the creek, whose general course was to the north-west, in
which direction we at length struck upon a river whose appearance
raised our most sanguine expectations. It flowed round an angle from
the north-east to the north-west, and extended in longitude five
reaches as far as we could see. At that place it was about sixty yards
broad, with banks of from thirty to forty feet high, and it had
numerous wild fowl and many pelicans on its bosom, and seemed to be
full of fish, while the paths of the natives on both sides, like
well-trodden roads, showed how numerous they were about it. On tasting
its waters, however, we found them perfectly salt, and useless to us,
and as our animals had been without water the night before, this
circumstance distressed us much; our first day's journey led us past
between sixty and seventy huts in one place, and on our second we fell
in with a numerous tribe of natives, having previously seen some
between two creeks before we made New-Year's Range. At some places the
water proved less salt than at others; our animals drank of it
sparingly: we found two small fresh-water holes, which served us as we
passed. After tracing the river for a considerable distance, we came on
brine springs in the bed of it, the banks having been encrusted with
salt from the first; and as the difficulty of getting fresh water was
so great, I here foresaw an end to our wanderings. And as I was
resolved not to involve my party in greater distress, I halted it, on
overtaking the animals, and the next morning turned back to the nearest
fresh-water, at a distance of eighteen miles from us. Unwilling,
however, to give up our pursuit, Mr. Hume and I started with two men on
horseback, to trace the river as far as we could, and to ascertain what
course it took; in the hopes also that we should fall on some creek, or
get a more certain supply of drinkable water. We went a distance to
which the bullocks could not have been brought, and then got on a red
sandy soil, which at once destroyed our hopes; and on tasting the river
water we found it salter than ever, our supply being diminished to two
pints. Our animals being weak and purged, and having proceeded at least
forty miles from the camp, I thought it best to yield to circumstances,
and to return, though I trust I shall be believed when I add, it was
with extreme reluctance I did so; and had I followed the wishes of my
party, should still have continued onwards. Making a part of the river
where we had slept, we stayed to refresh, and in consequence of the
heat of the weather were obliged to drink the water in it, which made
us sick. While here, a tribe of blacks came to us and behaved
remarkably well. At night we slept on a plain without water, and the
next day we regained the camp, which had been visited by the natives
during our absence.
We found the river held a south-west course, and appeared to be making
for the central space between a high land, which I called Dunlop's
Range, at Mr. Hume's request, and a lofty range to the westward. It
still continued its important appearance, having gained in breadth and
in the height of its banks, while there were hundreds of pelicans and
wild-fowl on it. Flowing through a level country with such a channel,
it may be presumed that this river ultimately assumes either a greater
character, or that it adds considerably to the importance of some other
stream. It had a clay bottom, generally speaking, in many places
semi-indurated and fast forming into sandstone, while there was
crystallized sulphate of lime running in veins through the soil which
composed the bank.
This river differs from most in the colony, in having a belt of barren
land of from a quarter of a mile to two miles in breadth in its
immediate neighbourhood, and which is subject to overflow. This belt
runs to the inland plains, where a small elevation checks the further
progress of the flood. There is magnificent blue gum on both sides the
river, but the right bank is evidently the most fertile, and I am
mistaken greatly if there is not a beautiful country north of it.
Of the country over which we have passed, it is impossible for me to
have formed a correct opinion under its present melancholy
circumstances. It has borne the appearance of barrenness, where in even
moderate rain, it might have shown very differently, though no doubt we
passed over much of both good and bad land; our animals on the whole,
have thrived on the food they have had, which would argue favourably
for the herbage. Generally speaking, I fear the timber is bad--the
rough-gum may be used for knees, and such purposes, and we may have
seen wood for the wheelwright and cabinet-maker, specimens of which I
have procured, but none for general or household purposes.
The creeks we have traced are different in character from those in the
settled districts, inasmuch as that, like the river, they have a belt
of barren land near then and but little grass--they have all of them
been numerously frequented by the natives, as appeared from the number
of muscle-shells on their banks, but now having scarcely any water in
them, the fish having either been taken, or are dead, and the tribes
gone elsewhere for food, while the badness of the river water has
introduced a cutaneous disease among the natives of that district,
which is fast carrying them off. Our intercourse with these people was
incessant from the time we first met them, and on all occasions they
behaved remarkably well, nor could we have seen less than than two
hundred and fifty of them.
Our return is to be attributable to the want of water alone, and it is
impossible for me to describe the effects of the drought on animal as
well as vegetable nature. The natives are wandering in the desert, and
it is melancholy to reflect on the necessity which obliges them to
drink the stinking and loathsome water they do--birds sit gasping in
the trees and are quite thin--the wild dog prowls about in the day-time
unable to avoid us, and is as lean as he can be in a living state,
while minor vegetation is dead, and the very trees are drooping. I have
noticed all these things in my Journal I shall have the honour of
submitting through you, for the Governor's perusal and information, on
my return. Finally, I fear our expedition will not pave the way to any
ultimate benefit; although it has been the means by which two very
doubtful questions,--the course of the Macquarie, and the nature of the
interior, have been solved; for it is beyond doubt, that the interior
for 250 miles beyond its former known limits to the W.N.W., so far from
being a shoal sea, has been ascertained not only to have considerable
elevations upon it, but is in itself a table land to all intents and
purposes, and has scarcely water on its surface to support its
inhabitants.
I beg you will inform His Excellency the Governor, that I have on all
occasions received the most ready and valuable assistance from Mr.
Hume. His intimate acquaintance with the manners and customs of the
natives, enabled him to enter into intercourse with them, and chiefly
contributed to the peaceable manner in which we have journeyed, while
his previous experience put it in his power to be of real use to me. I
cannot but say he has done an essential service to future travellers,
and to the colony at large, by his conduct on all occasions since he
has been with me; nor should I be doing him justice, if I did not avail
myself of the first opportunity of laying my sentiments before the
Governor, through you. I am happy to add that every individual of the
party deserves my warmest approbation, and that they have, one and all,
borne their distresses, trifling certainly, but still unusual, with
cheerfulness, and that they have at all times been attentive to their
duty, and obedient to their orders. The whole are in good health, and
are eager again to start.
I have the honor to be,
Sir
Your most obedient and most humble servant,
CHARLES STURT,
Capt. 39th Regt.
THE HONORABLE THE COLONIAL SECRETARY.
* * * * *
MOUNT HARRIS, 5TH MARCH, 1829.
SIR,--It having appeared to me, that after discovering such a river as
the one I have described in my letter of yesterday, His Excellency the
Governor would approve of my endeavouring to regain it. There being a
probability that it ultimately joins the Southern Waters, I thought of
turning my steps to the southward and westward; and with a view to
learn the nature of the country, I despatched Mr. Hume in that
direction on Saturday last. He returned in three days, after having
gone above forty miles from the river, and states, that he crossed two
creeks, the one about twenty-five miles, the other about thirty-two
distance, evidently the heads of the creeks we passed westward of the
marshes of the Macquarie. He adds, that, to the second creek the land
was excellent, but that on crossing it, he got onto red soil, on which
he travelled some miles further, until he saw a range of high land,
bearing from him S.W.. by W., when, knowing from the nature of the
country around him, and from the experience of our late journey, that
he could not hope to find a regular supply of water in advance, and
that in the present dry state of the low lands, a movement such as I
had contemplated would be impracticable, he returned home. I do myself
the honour, therefore, to report to you, for His Excellency's
information, that I shall proceed on Saturday next in a N.E. direction
towards the Castlereagh, intending to trace that river down, and
afterwards to penetrate as far to the northward and westward as
possible; it being my wish to get into the country north of the more
distant river, where I have expectations that there is an extensive and
valuable track of country, but that in failure of the above, I shall
examine the low country behind our N.W. boundaries, if I can find a
sufficiency of water to enable me to do so.
I am to inform you that in this neighbourhood the Macquarie has ceased
to flow, and that it is now a chain of shallow ponds. The water is fast
diminishing in it, and unless rain descends in a few weeks it will be
perfectly dry.
I am also to report, that the natives attempted the camp with the
supplies before my arrival at Mount Harris, but that on the soldier
with the party firing a shot, after they had thrown a stone and other
of the weapons, they fled. It was in consequence of their fires, which
I saw at a distance of forty miles, and which they never make on so
extensive a scale, except as signals when they want to collect, and are
inclined to be mischievous, that I made forced marches up, and I am led
to believe my arrival was very opportune. The natives have visited us
since, and I do not think they will now attempt to molest either party
when we separate.
I have the honour to be,
Sir,
Your most obedient and most humble servant,
CHARLES STURT,
Capt. 39th Regt.
THE HON. THE COLONIAL SECRETARY.
END OF VOLUME I