Intercourse with the natives--Their appearance and condition--Remarks
on the Salt or Darling River--Appearance of the marshes on our
return--Alarm for safety of the provision party--Return to Mount
Harris--Miserable condition of the natives--Circumstances attending the
slaughter of two Irish runaways--Bend our course towards the
Castlereagh--Wallis's Ponds--Find the famished natives feeding on
gum--Channel of the Castlereagh--Character of the country in its
vicinity--Another tribe of natives--Amicable intercourse with
them--Morrisset's chain of Ponds--Again reach the Darling River ninety
miles higher up than where we first struck upon it.
We kept near the river as we journeyed homewards, and in striking
across a plain, found an isolated rock of quartz and jasper, just
showing itself partially above the surface of the ground.
We were anxious to get to the small plain I have mentioned, if
possible, for the sake of the animals, and pushed on rapidly for it.
About 4 p.m. we had reached our sleeping place of the previous evening,
and being overpowered by thirst, we stopped in hopes that by making our
tea strong we might destroy, in some measure, the nauseous taste of the
water. The horses were spancelled and a fire lit. Whilst we were
sitting patiently for the boiling of the tins, Mr. Hume observed at a
considerable distance above us, a large body of natives under some gum
trees. They were not near enough for us to observe them distinctly, but
it was evident that they were watching our motions. We did not take any
notice of them for some time, but at last I thought it better to call
out to them, and accordingly requested Mr. Hume to do so. In a moment
the whole of them ran forward and dashed into the river, having been on
the opposite side, with an uproar I had never witnessed on any former
occasion.
INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES.
Mr. Hume thought they intended an attack, and the horses had taken
fright and galloped away. I determined, therefore, to fire at once upon
them if they pressed up the bank on which we were posted. Mr. Hume went
with me to the crest of it, and we rather angrily beckoned to the
foremost of the natives to stop. They mistook our meaning, but laid all
their spears in a heap as they came up. We then sat down on the bank
and they immediately did the same; nor did they stir until we beckoned
to them after the horses had been secured.
As they conducted themselves so inoffensively, we gave them everything
we had to spare. My gun seemed to excite their curiosity, as they had
seen Mr. Hume shoot a cockatoo with it; they must consequently have
been close to us for the greater part of the day, as the bird was
killed in the morning. It was of a species new to me, being smaller
than the common white cockatoo, and having a large scarlet-and-yellow
instead of a pine-yellow top-knot.
Having stayed about half an hour with them, we remounted our horses,
and struck away from the river into the plains, while the natives went
up its banks to join their hordes. Those whom we saw were about
twenty-seven in number and the most of them were strangers.
DISTRESS FROM THIRST.
It was some time after sunset before we reached the little plain on
which we had arranged to sleep, and when we dismounted we were in a
truly pitiable state. I had been unable to refrain from drinking
copiously at the river, and now became extremely sick. Mr. Hume had
been scarcely more prudent than myself, but on him the water had a
contrary effect, as well as upon Hopkinson. The tinker was the only man
fit for duty, and it was well for us that such was the case, as the
horses made frequent attempts to stray, and would have left us in a
pretty plight had they succeeded. We reached the camp on the following
day a little before sunset, nor was I more rejoiced to dismount from my
wearied horse than to learn that everything in the camp had been
regular during our absence and that the men had kept on the best terms
with the natives who had paid them frequent visits.
The bullocks had improved, but were still extremely weak, and as the
horses we had employed on the last journey required a day or two's
rest, it was arranged that we should not break up our camp until the
12th, beyond which period we could not stop, in consequence of the low
state of our salt provisions, we having barely sufficient to last to
Mount Harris, at the rate of two pounds per week.
REMARKS ON THE NATIVES.
The morning after we returned from our excursion, a large party of
natives, about seventy in number, visited the camp. On this occasion,
the women and children passed behind the tents, but did not venture to
stop. Most of the men had spears, and were unusually inquisitive and
forward. Several of them carried fire-sticks under the influence of the
disease I have already noticed, whilst others were remarked to have
violent cutaneous eruptions all over the body. We were pretty well on
the alert; notwithstanding which, every minor article was seized with a
quickness that would have done credit to a most finished juggler. One
of the natives thus picked up my comb and toothbrush, but as he did not
attempt to conceal them, they were fortunately recovered. After staying
with us a short time the men followed the women. They appeared to be
strangers who had come from a distance.
CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES.
The natives of the Darling are a clean-limbed, well-conditioned race,
generally speaking. They seemingly occupy permanent huts, but their
tribe did not bear any proportion to the size or number of their
habitations. It was evident their population had been thinned. The
customs of these distant tribes, as far as we could judge, were similar
to those of the mountain blacks, and they are essentially the same
people, although their language differs. They lacerate their bodies,
but do not extract the front teeth. We saw but few cloaks among them,
since the opossum does not inhabit the interior. Those that were
noticed, were made of the red kangaroo skin. In appearance, these men
are stouter in the bust than at the lower extremities; they have broad
noses, sunken eyes, overhanging eyebrows, and thick lips. The men are
much better looking than the women. Both go perfectly naked, if I
except the former, who wear nets over the loins and across the
forehead, and bones through the cartilages of the nose. Their chief
food is fish, of which they have great supplies in the river; still
they have their seasons for hunting their emus and kangaroos. The nets
they use for this purpose, as well as for fishing, are of great length,
and are made upon large frames. These people do not appear to have
warlike habits nor do they take any pride in their arms, which differ
little from those used by the inland tribes, and are assimilated to
them as far as the materials will allow. One powerful man, however, had
a regular trident, for which Mr. Hume offered many things without
success. He plainly intimated to us that he had a use for it, but
whether against an enemy or to secure prey, we could not understand. I
was most anxious to have ascertained if any religious ceremonies
obtained among them, but the difficulty of making them comprehend our
meaning was insurmountable; and to the same cause may be attributed the
circumstance of my being unable to collect any satisfactory vocabulary
of their language. They evinced a strange perversity, or obstinacy
rather, in repeating words, although it was evident that they knew they
were meant as questions. The pole we observed in the creek, on the
evening previously to our making the Darling, was not the only one that
fell under our notice; our impression therefore, that they were fixed
by the natives to propitiate some deity, was confirmed. It would appear
that the white pigment was an indication of mourning. Whether these
people have an idea of a superintending Providence I doubt, but they
evidently dread evil agency. On the whole I should say they are a
people, at present, at the very bottom of the scale of humanity.
REMARKS ON THE DARLING RIVER.
We struck the Darling River in lat. 29 degrees 37 minutes S. and in E.
long. 145 degrees 33 minutes, and traced it down for about sixty-six
miles in a direct line to the S.W. If I might hazard an opinion from
appearance, to whatever part of the interior it leads, its source must
be far to the N.E. or N. The capacity of its channel, and the terrific
floods that must sometimes rage in it, would argue that it is
influenced by tropical rains, which alone would cause such floods. It
is likely that it seldom arrives at so reduced a state as that in which
we found it, and that, generally speaking, it has a sufficient depth of
water for the purposes of inland navigation: in such case its future
importance cannot be questioned, since it most probably receives the
chief streams falling westerly from the coast ranges. But, with every
anticipation of the benefit that may at some time or other be derived
from this remarkable and central stream, it is incumbent on me to state
that the country, through which it flows, holds out but little prospect
of advantage. Certainly the portion we know of it, is far from
encouraging. The extent of alluvial soil, between the inner and outer
banks of the river, is extremely limited, and, instead of being covered
with sward, is in most places over-run by the polygonum. Beyond this
the plains of the interior stretch away, whose character and soil must
change, ere they can be available to any good purpose. But there is a
singular want of vegetable decay in the interior of New Holland, and
that powerfully argues its recent origin.
REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY.
There is no life upon its surface, if I may so express myself; but the
stillness of death reigns in its brushes, and over its plains. It
cannot, however, be doubted that we visited the interior during a most
unfavorable season. Probably in ordinary ones it wears a different
appearance, but its deserts are of great extent, and its productions
are of little value.
Agreeably to our arrangements, we broke up our camp at an early hour on
the morning of the 12th, and proceeded up the river to the junction of
New Year's Creek. We then struck away in an easterly direction from it,
detaching a man to trace the creek up, lest we should pass any water;
and we should certainly have been without it had we not taken this
precaution.
On the following day, we again passed to the eastward, through an open
country, having picturesque views of Oxley's Table Land. We crossed our
track about noon, and struck on the creek at about five miles beyond
it, and we were fortunate enough to procure both water and grass. The
timber upon the plains, between us and the Darling, we found to be a
rough gum, but box prevailed in the neighbourhood of the creek at this
part of it.
On the 14th, we changed our direction more to the southward, but made a
short journey, in consequence of being obliged to make some slight
repairs on the boat carriage.
REGAIN OUR OLD ROUTE.
On the 15th, we kept an E.S.E. course, and, crossing the creek at an
early hour, got upon our old track, which we kept. We had the lateral
ridge of the Pink Hills upon our right, and travelled through a good
deal of brush. Four or five natives joined us, and two followed us to
the end of our day's journey. In the course of the evening, they
endeavoured to pilfer whatever was in their reach, but were detected
putting a tin into a bush, and soon took to their heels. This was the
first instance we had of open theft among the natives of the interior.
We passed Mosquito Brush on the 18th, but found the ponds quite dry, we
were, therefore, under the necessity of pushing on, to shorten the next
day's journey, as we could not expect to get water nearer than the
marshes. At noon, on the 19th, we entered the plain, and once more saw
them spreading in dreariness before us. While the party was crossing to
the first channel, I rode to the left, in order to examine the
appearance of the country in the direction of the wood, and as far as I
skirted the reeds had my impressions confirmed as to their partial
extension. I was obliged, however, to join the men without completing
the circuit of the marshes. They had found the first channel dry, and
had passed on to the other, in which, fortunately, a small quantity of
water still remained. It was, however, so shallow as to expose the
backs of the fish in it, and a number of crows had congregated, and
were pecking at them. Wishing to satisfy my mind as to the distance to
which the river extended to the northward, Mr. Hume rode with me on the
following day, to examine the country in that direction, leaving the
men stationary. We found that the reeds gradually decreased in body,
until, at length, they ceased, or gave place to bulrushes. There were
general appearances of inundation, and of the subsidence of waters, but
none that led us to suppose that any channel existed beyond the flooded
lands.
ALARM FOR THE SAFETY OF THE PROVISION PARTY.
On our return to the camp, we observed dense masses of smoke rising at
the head of the marshes, and immediately under Mount Foster. This
excited our alarm for the safety of the party we hoped to find at Mount
Harris, and obliged us to make forced marches, to relieve it if
threatened by the natives.
On the 22nd, we crossed the plains of the Macquarie, and surprised a
numerous tribe on the banks of the river; and the difficulty we found
in getting any of them to approach us, their evident timidity, and the
circumstance of one of them having on a jacket, tended to increase our
apprehensions. When two or three came to us, they intimated that white
men either had been or were under Mount Harris, but we were left in
uncertainty and passed a most anxious night.
The body of reeds was still on fire; and the light embers were carried
to an amazing distance by the wind, falling like a black-shower around
us. As we knew that the natives never made such extensive
conflagration, unless they had some mischievous object in view, our
apprehension for the safety of Riley, with his supplies, was increased.
At the earliest dawn, we pushed for the hill. In passing that part of
the meadows under Mount Foster, we observed that the grass had also
been consumed, and we scarcely recognized the ground from its altered
appearance. As we approached Mount Harris, we saw recent traces of
cattle, but none were visible on the plains. Under the hill, however,
we could distinctly see that a hut of some kind had been erected, and
it is impossible for me to describe the relief we felt when a soldier
came forward to reconnoitre us. I could no longer doubt the safety of
the party, and this was confirmed by the rest of the men turning out to
welcome us. It appeared that our suspicions with regard to the natives
had not been without foundation, since they attempted to surprise the
camp, and it was supposed the firing of the marshes was done with a
view to collect the distant tribes, to make a second attack; so that
our arrival was most opportune.
The party I found awaiting our arrival at Mount Harris consisted of one
soldier, Riley, who had the charge of the supplies, and a drayman. They
had found the paper I had fixed against the tree, and also the letters
I had hid, and had forwarded them to Sydney, by another soldier and a
prisoner; which had weakened their party a good deal. Riley informed
me, that he had been between a month and three weeks at the station,
and that knowing our provisions must have run short he had expected us
much earlier than we had made our appearance.
My dispatches stated, that additional supplies had been forwarded for
my use, together with horses and bullocks, in the event of my requiring
them. On examination, the former were found to be in excellent order;
and, as it would take some time to carry any changes I might
contemplate, or find it necessary to make, into effect, I determined to
give the men who had been with me a week's rest.
ENCAMP AT MOUNT HARRIS.
The camp was made snug; and as the weather had become much cooler I
thought it a good opportunity to slaughter one of the bullocks, in
order to guard against any bad effects of our having been living for
some weeks exclusively on salt provisions. I was also induced to this
measure, from a wish to preserve my supplies as much as possible.
These matters having been arranged, I had a temporary awning erected
near the river, and was for three or four days busily employed writing
an account of our journey for the Governor's information.
Having closed my despatches, and answered the numerous friendly letters
I had received, my attention was next turned to the changes that had
taken place at Mount Harris during our absence. The Macquarie, I found,
had wholly ceased to flow, and now consisted of a chain of ponds. Such
of the minor vegetation as had escaped the fires of the natives, had
perished under the extreme heat of the season. The acacia pendula stood
leafless upon the plains, and the polygonum junceum appeared to be the
only plant that had withstood the effects of the drought. Yet,
notwithstanding this general depression of the vegetable kingdom, the
animals that had been brought from Wellington Valley were in the best
condition, and were, indeed, too fat for effective labour; it might,
therefore, be reasonably presumed, that herbage affording such
nourishment in so unfavourable a season, would be of the richest
quality, if fresh and vigorous under the influence of seasonable, and
not excessive, rains.
FIRING OF THE GREAT MARSHES.
The appearance of the country was, however, truly melancholy; there was
not a flower in bloom, nor a green object to be seen. Whether our
arrival had increased their alarm, is uncertain, but the natives
continued to fire the great marshes, and as the element raged amongst
them, large bodies of smoke rose over the horizon like storm clouds,
and had the effect of giving additional dreariness to the scene. I am
inclined to think that they made these conflagrations to procure food,
by seizing whatsoever might issue from the flames, as snakes, birds, or
other animals; for they had taken every fish in the river, and the low
state of its waters had enabled them to procure an abundance of muscles
from its bed, which they had consumed with their characteristic
improvidence. They were, consequently, in a starving condition, and so
pitiable were their indications of it, that I was induced to feed such
of them as visited the camp, notwithstanding their late misconduct;
being likewise anxious to bring about a good understanding, as the best
means of ensuring the safety of the smaller party when we should
separate, of which I had reason to be doubtful. These people had killed
two white men not long before my arrival among them, and as the
circumstances attending the slaughter are singular, I shall relate them.
SLAUGHTER OF TWO IRISH RUNAWAYS.
The parties were two Irish runaways, who thought they could make their
way to Timor. They escaped from Wellington Valley with a fortnight's
provision each, and a couple of dogs, and proceeded down the Macquarie.
About the cataract, they fell in with the Mount Harris tribe, and
remained with them for some days, when they determined on pursuing
their journey. The blacks, however, wanted to get possession of their
dogs, and a resistance on the part of the Europeans brought on a
quarrel. It appears, that before the blacks proceeded to extremities,
they furnished the Irishmen, who were unarmed, with weapons, and then
told them to defend themselves, but whether against equal or inferior
numbers, I am uninformed. One of them soon fell, which the other
observing, he took his knife out, and cut the throats of both the dogs
before the blacks had time to put him to death. He was, however,
sacrificed; and both the men were eaten by the tribe generally. I
questioned several on the subject, but they preserved the most sullen
silence, neither acknowledging nor denying the fact.
ARBUTHNOT'S RANGE.
Mr. Hume had been one day on Mount Harris, and while there, had laid
his compass on a large rock, near to which Mr. Oxley's boat had been
burnt. To his surprise, he found the needle affected; and his bearings
were all wrong. I subsequently went up to ascertain the extent of the
error produced, and found it precisely the same as Mr. Hume noticed.
When I placed the compass on the rock, Mount Foster bore from me N. by
W., the true bearing of the one hill from the other being N.N.W. My
placing my notebook under the compass did not alter the effect, nor did
the card move until I raised the instrument a couple of feet above the
stone, when it first became violently agitated, and then settled
correctly; and my bearings of the highest parts of Arbuthnot's Range,
and of its centre, were as follows:
Mount Exmouth to the N ...... N. 86 E.
Centre....................... N. 85 E.
Vernon's Peak................ N. 89 E.
Distance 70 miles.
Having finished my reports and letters, it became necessary to consider
the best point on which to move, and to fix a day for our departure
from Mount Harris. It struck me that having found so important a
feature as the Darling River, the Governor would approve my
endeavouring to regain it more to the southward, in order to trace it
down. I, therefore, detached Mr. Hume to survey the country in that
direction, and to ascertain if a descent upon the Bogen district would
be practicable, through which I had been informed a considerable river
forced itself. The report he made on his return was such as to deter me
from that attempt, but he stated that the country for 30 miles from the
Macquarie was well watered, and superior to any he had passed over
during the journey; beyond that distance, it took up the character of
the remote interior, and alternated with plains and brush, the soil
being too sandy to retain water on its surface. He saw some hills from
the extremity of his journey, bearing by compass W.S.W. We consequently
determined to make for the Castlereagh, agreeably to our instructions.
Preparations were made for breaking up the camp, all the various
arrangements in the change of animals were completed, the boat carriage
was exchanged for a dray, and I took Boyle in the place of Norman,
whose timidity in the bush rendered him unfit for service.
CIRCUIT OF THE GREAT MARSHES.
There is a small hill on the opposite side of the river, and
immediately facing Mount Harris, and to the S.E. of it there is a small
lagoon, the head of a creek, by means of which its superfluous waters
are carried off. This creek runs parallel to the river for about ten
miles, and enters the marshes at the S.E. angle. This I ascertained one
day in riding to carry on my survey of the southern extremity of the
marshes, and to join my line of route by making the circuit of that
part of them. I found that the river was turned to its northerly course
by a rising ground of forest land, which checks its further progress
westerly. I proceeded round the S.W. angle, and then, taking a
northerly course, got down to the bottom of the first great marsh, thus
completing the circuit of them. I did not return to the camp until
after 10 p.m., having crossed the river at day-light, nor did we
procure any water from the time we left the stream to the moment of our
recrossing it.
WALLIS'S PONDS.
Having completed our various arrangements, and closed our letters, we
struck our tents on the morning of the 7th March; we remained, however,
to witness the departure of Riley's party for Wellington Valley, and
then left the Macquarie on an E.N.E. course for Wallis's Ponds, and
made them at about 14 miles. They undoubtedly empty themselves into the
marshes, and are a continuation of that chain of ponds on which I left
the party in Mr. Hume's charge. About a mile from Mount Harris, we
passed a small dry creek, that evidently lays the country under water
in the wet seasons. There was a blue-gum flat to the eastward of it,
which we crossed, and then entered a brush of acacia pendula and box.
The soil upon the plain was an alluvial deposit; that in the brushes
was sandy. From the extremity of the plain, Mount Harris bore, by
compass, S.W. by W.; Mount Foster due west. The scrub through which we
were penetrating, at length became so dense, that we found it
impossible to travel in a direct line through it, and frequent ridges
of cypresses growing closely together, turned us repeatedly from our
course. The country at length became clearer, and we travelled over
open forest of box, casuarina, and cypresses, on a sandy soil; the
first predominating. For about two miles before we made the creek, the
country was not heavily timbered, the acacia pendula succeeding the
larger trees. The ground had a good covering of grass upon it, and
there were few of the salsolaceous plants, so abundant on the western
plains, to be found. The rough-gum abounded near the creek, with a
small tree bearing a hard round nut, and we had the luxury of plenty of
water.
We remained stationary on the 8th, in hopes that Riley would have met
the soldier who had been sent back to Wellington Valley, and that he
would have forwarded any letters to us, of which he might have been the
bearer. The day, however, passed over without realizing our
expectations; and we started once more for the interior, and cut
ourselves off from all communication with society.
MORRISSET'S PONDS.
We made for Morrisset's chain of ponds, and travelled over rich and
extensive plains, divided by plantations of cypress, box, and
casuarina, in the early and latter period of the day. About noon we
entered a dense forest of cypresses, which continued for three miles,
when the cypresses became mixed with casuarina, box, and mountain-gum,
a tree we had not remarked before in so low a situation. We struck upon
the creek after a journey of about 15 miles. It had a sandy bed, and
was extremely tortuous in its course, nor was it until after a
considerable search, that we at length succeeded in finding water, at
which a party of natives were encamped. The moment they saw us, they
fled, and left all their utensils, &c. behind them. Among other things,
we found a number of bark troughs, filled with the gum of the mimosa,
and vast quantities of gum made into cakes upon the ground. From this
it would appear these unfortunate creatures were reduced to the last
extremity, and, being unable to procure any other nourishment, had been
obliged to collect this mucilaginous food.
The plains we traversed, were of uniform equality of surface. Water
evidently lodges and continues on them long after a fall of rain, and
in wet seasons they must, I should imagine, be full of quagmires, and
almost impassable.
On the 10th, we passed through a country that differed in no material
point from that already described. We stopped at 10 a.m. under some
brush, in the centre of a large plain, from which Arbuthnot's range
bore S. 84 E. distant from 50 to 55 miles, and afterwards traversed or
rather crossed, those extensive tracts described by Mr. Evans as being
under water and covered with reeds, in 1817. They now bore a very
different appearance, being firm and dry. The soil was in general good,
and covered with forest grass and a species of oxalia. We did not
observe any reeds, or the signs of inundation, but, as is invariably
the case with plains in the interior, they were of too even surface, as
I have so lately remarked, to admit of the waters running quickly off
them; and no doubt, when they became saturated, many quagmires are
formed, that would very much impede the movements of an expedition.
REACH THE CASTLEREAGH RIVER.
We reached the Castlereagh about 4 p.m., and although its channel could
not have been less than 130 yards in breadth, there was apparently not
a drop of water in it. Its bed consisted of pure sand and reeds; amid
the latter, we found a small pond of 15 yards circumference, after a
long search. There is a considerable dip in the country towards the
river, at about two miles from it; and the intervening brush was full
of kangaroo, which, I fancy, had congregated to a spot where there was
abundance of food for them. The soil covering the space was of the
richest quality, and the timber upon it consisted of box, mountain gum,
and the angophora lanceolata, a tree that is never found except on rich
ground.
WANT OF WATER; CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
It appeared that our troubles were to recommence, and that in order to
continue on the Castlereagh, it would be necessary for Mr. Hume and
myself to undertake those fatiguing journeys in search of water that
had so exhausted us already: and after all, it was doubtful how soon we
might be forced back. I had certainly expected that, on our gaining the
banks of the river, we should have had a constant supply of water, but
the circumstance of the Castlereagh having not only ceased to flow, but
being absolutely dry, while it afforded the best and clearest proof of
the severity and continuance of the drought in the interior, at the
same time damped the spirits and ardour of the men. We kept the left
bank of the river as we proceeded down it, and passed two or three
larger ponds about a mile below where we had slept, but there they
ceased. The bed of the river became one of pure sand, nor did there
appear to be any chance of our finding any water in it. I stopped the
party at about eight miles, and desired the men to get their dinners,
to give Mr. Hume and myself time to search for a supply upon the
plains. Disappointed to the left, we crossed the channel of the
Castlereagh, and struck over a small plain upon the right bank, and at
the extremity of it, came upon a swamp, from which we immediately
returned for the cattle, and got them unloaded by seven o'clock. As
there was sufficient pasture around us, I proposed to Mr. Hume on the
following day, to leave the party stationary, and to ride down the
river to see how far its present appearances continued. Like the
generality of rivers of the interior, it had, where we struck upon it,
outer banks to confine its waters during floods, and to prevent them
from spreading generally over the country; the space between the two
banks being of the richest soil, and the timber chiefly of the
angophora kind. Flooded-gum overhung the inner banks of the river, or
grew upon the many islands, with casuarina. It became evident, however,
that the outer banks declined in height as we proceeded down the river,
nor was it long before they ceased altogether. As we rode along, we
found that the inner ones were fast decreasing in height also. Riding
under a hanging wood of the angophora, which had ceased for a time, we
were induced to break off to our right, to examine some large
flooded-gum trees about a couple of miles to the N.W. of us. On
arriving near them, we were astonished to find that they concealed a
serpentine lagoon that had a belt of reeds round it. Keeping this
lagoon upon our right, we at length came to the head of it, past which
the river sweeps. Crossing the channel of the river, we continued to
ride in an easterly direction to examine the country. In doing this,
we struck on a second branch of the Castlereagh, leading W. by N. into
a plain, which it of course inundates at times, and running up it, we
found its bed at the point of separation, to be considerably higher
than that of the main channel, which still continued of pure sand--and
was stamped all over with the prints of the feet of natives, kangaroos,
emus, and wild dogs, We then turned again to the head of the lagoon,
and took the following bearings of Arbuthnot's range:
Mount Exmouth .......... E. 90 S.
Centre Range ........... E. 35 E.
Vernon's Peak .......... E. 20 S.
From the head of the lagoon, the river appeared to enter a reedy
hollow, shaded by a long line of flooded gum trees, and on proceeding
to it, we found the banks ceased here altogether; and that a very
considerable plain extended both to the right and the left, which
cannot fail of being frequently laid under water.
LAGOONS AND CREEKS OF THE CASTLEREAGH.
On the following morning we moved the party to the lagoon, and, passing
its head, encamped to the north of it; after which we again rode down
the river in search of water. It continued to hold a straight and
northerly course for about five miles, having a plain on either side.
The reeds that had previously covered the channel then suddenly ceased,
and the channel, contracting in breadth, gained in depth: it became
extremely serpentine, and at length lost all the character and
appearance of a river. It had many back channels, as large as the main
one, serving to overflow the neighbouring country. We succeeded in
finding a small pond of water in one of the former, hardly large enough
to supply our necessities, but as it enabled us to push so much further
on, we turned towards the lagoon, making a circuitous journey to the
right, across a large plain, bounded to the north by low acacia brush
and box. We struck upon a creek at the further extremity of the plain,
in which there was a tolerably sized pond. It appeared from the traces
of men, that some natives had been there the day before; but we did not
see any of them. The water was extremely muddy and unfit for use. The
lagoon at which we had encamped, was of less importance than we had
imagined.
JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER.
Whilst Mr. Hume led the party down the river, I rode up its northward
bank, to examine it more closely. I found it to be a serpentine sheet
of about three miles in length, gradually decreasing in depth until it
separated into two small creeks. In following one of them up, I
observed that they re-united at the distance of about two miles, and
that the lagoon was filled from the eastward, and not by the river as I
had at first supposed. The waters at the head of the lagoon were
putrid, nor was there a fish in, or a wild fowl upon it. The only bird
we saw was a beautiful eagle, of the osprey kind, with plumage like a
sea gull, which had a nest in the tree over the tents.
In turning to overtake the party I rode through a great deal of acacia
scrub, and on arriving at the place at which I expected to have
overtaken them, I found they had pushed on.
The Castlereagh, as I rode down it, diminished in size considerably,
and became quite choked up with rushes and brambles. Rough-gum again
made its appearance, with swamp-oak and a miserable acacia scrub
outside. The country on both sides of the river seemed to be an
interminable flat, and the soil of an inferior description.
WRETCHED APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.
I came up with with Mr. Hume about 1 o'clock and we again pushed
forward at 3, and halted for the night without water, the want of which
the cattle did not feel. The river held a general westerly course, and
the country in its neighbourhood became extremely depressed and low. On
the following day we moved forward a distance of not more than nine
miles, through a country on which, at first, the acacia pendula alone
was growing on a light alluvial soil. The river had many back drains,
by means of which, in wet seasons, it inundates the adjacent plains. It
was evident, however, that they had not been flooded for many years;
and, notwithstanding that the country was low, the line of inundation
did not appear to be very extensive, nor were there any reeds growing
beyond the immediate banks of the river. Swamp-oak and rough-gum again
prevailed near the stream at our halting place, and the improvement
that had taken place, both in the country and in the Castlereagh, had
induced us to make so short a journey; for not only was there abundance
of the grass for the animals, but large ponds of water in the river.
Some natives had only just preceded us down it: we came upon their
fires that were still smoking; and upon them were the remains of some
fish they had taken, near which they had left a cumbrous spear. The
circumstances cheered us with hopes that an improvement would take
place in the country, and that some new feature would soon open upon
us. In the course of the following day, however, every favorable
change, both in the river and in the country, disappeared. The latter
continued extremely depressed, and in general open, or lightly covered
with acacia pendula; the former dwindled into a mere ditch, choked up
with brambles and reeds, and having only here and there a stagnant pool
of water. We travelled on a N.W. 1/2 W. course for about ten miles, and
again stopped for the night without water. In the course of the
afternoon, we traversed several flats, on which the rough-gum alone was
growing. These flats were evidently subject to flood; and contained an
alluvial soil.
They became more frequent as we travelled down the river, and the work
was so heavy for the animals, that I was obliged to keep wide of them,
in doing which we struck upon a creek of large size, coming from the
N.E. and, having crossed, we traversed its right bank to its junction
with the Castlereagh, and stopped close to it at a pond of water,
though the feed for the animals was bad. The country to the left of the
river, though somewhat high, was the same, in essential points, as that
to the right.
The Castlereagh seemed to have increased in size below the creek, but
still it had no resemblance to a river. We had not proceeded very far
down its banks, on the 18th, when we crossed a broad footpath leading
to it from the interior. I turned my horse to the left, and struck upon
a long sheet of water, from which I startled a number of pelicans. It
was evident that the natives had recently been in the neighbourhood,
but we thought it probable they might have been a hunting party, who
had returned again to the plains. The whole track we passed over during
the day was miserably poor and bare of vegetation, nor did the
appearance of the country to the N.E. indicate any improvement. We lost
the traces of the natives immediately after crossing their path or
beat, and again found the bed of the river dry, after we had passed the
sheet of water to which it led. The soil was so rotten and yielding,
that the team knocked up early; indeed, it was a matter of surprise to
me that they should not have failed before. The river made somewhat to
the westward with little promise of improvement. The wretched
appearance of the country as we penetrated into it, damped our spirits;
we pressed on, however, with difficulty, over ground that was totally
destitute of vegetation. Instead of lofty timber and a living stream,
we wandered along the banks of an insignificant watercourse, and under
trees of stunted size and scanty foliage. We stopped on the 20th at the
angle of a creek, in which there was some dry grass, in consequence of
the animals being almost in a starving state, but even here they had
but little to eat.
A violent thunder-storm passed over us in the afternoon, but it made no
change in the temperature of the air. The weather, although it had been
hot and sultry, had fallen far short of the intense heat we experienced
in crossing the marshes of the Macquarie, when it was such as to melt
the sugar in the canisters, and to destroy all our dogs; and our nights
were now become agreeably cool.
A PARTY OF NATIVES.
We still, however, continued to travel over a dead level, nor was a
height or break visible from the loftiest trees we ascended. A little
before we stopped at the creek, we surprised a party of natives; old
men, women, and children. They were preparing dinners of fish in much
larger quantities than they could have devoured--probably for a part of
the tribe that were absent; but the moment they saw us they fled, and
left every thing at our mercy. On examining the fish, we found them
totally different from any in the Macquarie, and took two of the most
perfect to preserve. In the afternoon one of the men came to inform me
that the tribe was coming down upon us.
Mr. Hume and I, therefore, went to meet them. They were at this time
about 150 yards from the tent, but seeing us advance, they stopped, and
forming two deep, they marched to and fro, to a war song I suppose,
crouching with their spears. We had not, however, any difficulty in
communicating with them, and I shall detail the manner in which this
was brought about, in hopes that it may help to guide others. When the
natives saw us advance, they stopped, and we did the same. Mr. Hume
then walked to a tree, and broke off a short branch. It is singular
that this should, even with these rude people, be a token of peace. As
soon as they saw the branch, the natives laid aside their spears, and
two of them advanced about twenty paces in front of the rest, who sat
down. Mr. Hume then went forward and sat down, when the two natives
again advanced and seated themselves close to him.
Now it is evident that a little insight into the customs of every
people is necessary to insure a kindly communication; this, joined with
patience and kindness, will seldom fail with the natives of the
interior. It is not to avoid alarming their natural timidity that a
gradual approach is so necessary. They preserve the same ceremony among
themselves. These men, who were eighteen in number, came with us to the
tents, and received such presents as we had for them. They conducted
themselves very quietly, and, after a short time, left us with every
token of friendship.
LARGE CREEK.
On the 21st we proceeded down the river on a N.N.W. course, and at
about five miles struck upon a very large creek, apparently coming from
the E.N.E.
Although the Castlereagh had increased in size, this creek was
infinitely larger; it was, however, perfectly dry. Lofty flooded-gum
trees were upon its banks, and it appeared so much superior to the
river that I was induced to halt the party at the junction, in order to
examine it more closely. Mr. Hume, therefore, rode with me up the right
bank. We had not proceeded very far, when some natives called out to us
from the opposite scrub. Thinking that they belonged to the tribe we
had left behind us, we pointed to the junction, and motioned them to go
there, but one of the party continued to follow and call to us for some
time. On our return to the men, we found that the natives had joined
them, and they now gave us to understand that we were going away from
water. This had indeed been apparent to us. The creek was perfectly
dry, as far as we traced it up; and seemed to have been totally
deserted by the natives.
We were about to proceed on our journey, when from twenty to thirty
natives approached us from down the river. We sent two of those who had
been with us to them, and the whole accompanied us for some miles,
talking incessantly to the men, but keeping at a very respectful
distance from the animals. We at length got opposite to their camp,
near which there was a very fine pool of water, and they were earnest
in persuading us to stop at it. We were, however, too anxious to get
forward to comply; under the improved appearance of the river since it
had received the creeks from the eastward, little anticipating what was
before us.
NATIVE ARMOURY.
The natives did not follow us beyond their own encampment. Within sight
of it, we came upon their armoury, if I may so term it. Numerous spears
were reared against the trees, and heaps of boomerangs were lying on
the ground. The spears were very heavy, and half barbed; and it is
singular that three of them were marked with a broad arrow. We saw the
natives watching us, fearful, I imagine, that we should help ourselves;
but I would not permit any of their weapons to be touched.
EXAMINATION OF CREEKS NEAR THE CASTLEREAGH.
Pursuing our journey, we reached another creek, at about five miles,
similar to the last in appearance and size, and we crossed it
repeatedly during the afternoon. We had been induced to keep along a
native path in the hope that it would have led us to the river by a
short cut; but it eventually led us to this creek, and away from the
Castlereagh; for, notwithstanding that we subsequently changed our
course to the S.W., we failed, as we supposed, again to strike upon the
latter, and were obliged to stop for the night on the banks of what
appeared to be a third large dry creek, which we intersected nearly at
right angles.
We travelled through a good deal of brush during the day, nor did the
country change from the miserable and barren character it had assumed
for the last thirty or forty miles. The Castlereagh had so frequently
changed, that both Mr. Hume and myself were puzzled as to the identity
of the creek upon which we had halted. We searched its bed in vain for
water, although it was most capacious. Under an impression that the
river was still to the south, and that we were at a point to which many
watercourses from the high lands tended, I crossed the creek early in
the morning, and held a S.W. course, over an open forest country. At
about eight miles, we came upon a large space over-run by the polygonum
junceum, a certain indication of flooded ground, and of our consequent
proximity to some stream. Accordingly, after pushing through it, we
struck upon a small creek with abundance of water in it. Whether this
creek was the Castlereagh, which it resembled much more than the one we
had left in the morning, was doubtful; but it was a great source of
comfort to us to have so unexpected a supply of water as that which was
now at our disposal. Whatever channel this was, whether a river or a
creek, our tracing it down would lead us in the direction we wished to
go, and probably to some junction.
The neighbourhood of the creek was well clothed with vegetation, and
the cattle found good feed; but the only trees near it were rough-gum
and casuarinae; the flooded-gum had again disappeared. The soil of the
forest land over which we journeyed was a light sandy loam; and its
timber consisted chiefly of eucalypti, acacia pendula, and the
angophora.
Some natives visited us in the afternoon, and among them, both Mr. Hume
and I recognized one of those we had seen on the Darling. He also knew
us again, but we could not make out from him how far we were from that
river. They stayed with us till sunset, and then went down the creek,
leaving their spears against a tree, for which they said they would
return.
On the 23rd we took up a W.N.W. course, and when we again touched on
the creek it was dry. This was at a distance of about five miles from
where we had slept. As the animals had not recovered from their late
privations, I deemed it better to halt the party and to examine the
creek for a few miles below us, that in case it should prove destitute
of water, we might return to that we had left. Mr. Hume accordingly
rode down it for about three miles, without success; and on his
rejoining the men, we returned with them to our last camp, or to within
a short distance of it. Wishing to examine the creek above our
position, I requested Mr. Hume to take two men with him, and to trace
it down in search of water, while I should proceed in the opposite
direction. I went from the camp at an early hour, and as I wandered
along the creek, I passed a regular chain of ponds. The country on both
sides of the creek was evidently subject to flood, but more extensively
to the south than to the north. From the creek, I struck away to my
left, and after penetrating through a belt of swamp-oak and minor
shrubs, got on a small plain, which I crossed N.E. and, to my
annoyance, found it covered with rhagodia and salsolae. As I had not
started with the intention of sleeping, I turned to the S.W. a little
before sunset, and reached the tents between ten and eleven. I found
Mr. Hume awaiting me. He informed me that at about nine miles from
where we had turned back with the party, he had struck upon a junction;
and that as the junction was much larger than the channel he had been
tracing, he thought it better to follow it up for a few miles. He found
that it narrowed in width, and that its banks became steep, with a fine
avenue of flooded-gum trees overhanging them. At four miles, he came
upon another junction, and at four miles more, found himself opposite
to the ground on which we had slept on the previous Saturday. From this
point he retraced the channel, but not finding any water for three
miles below the lower junction, he returned to the camp, with a view of
prosecuting a longer journey on the morrow. Mr. Hume had become
impressed with an opinion, that the junction up which we had slept was
no other than the Castlereagh itself; and that our position was on a
creek, probably Morrisset's chain of ponds, flowing into it. As the
cattle wanted a few days' rest, Mr. Hume and I determined to ride,
unattended, along our track to our camp of the 21st, and then to follow
the channel upwards, until we should arrive at the station of the
natives, or until we should have ridden to such a distance as would set
our conjectures at rest. In the morning, however, instead of running
upon our old track, we followed that of Mr. Hume to the junction,
giving up our first intention, with a view to ascertain if there
existed any water which we could, by an effort, gain, below where Mr.
Hume had been. The channel was very broad, with a considerable fall in
its bed, and, in appearance, more resembled the slope of a lawn than
the bed of a river. It had two gum-trees in the centre of its channel,
in one of which the floods had left the trunk of a large tree. We could
discover where it narrowed and its banks rose, but, as we intended to
make a closer examination before we left the neighbourhood, we
continued our journey down the principal channel. The ground exhibited
an abundance of pasture in its immediate neighbourhood, but the distant
country was miserably poor and bare. At about three miles, we came upon
the fresh traces of some natives, which led us to the channel again,
from which we had wandered unintentionally. In it we found there had
been water very lately, and it appeared that the natives had dug holes
at the bottom to insure a longer supply. These were now exhausted, but
still retained the appearance of moisture. At a mile and a half beyond
these, we were led to some similar holes, by observing a number of
birds flying about them. The water was too muddy for us to drink, but
the horses emptied them successively. We now kept sufficiently near the
channel to insure our seeing any pool that might still remain in it,
but rode for about seven miles before we again saw water, and even
here, although it was a spring, we were obliged to dig holes, and await
their filling, before we could get sufficient for our use. Having
dined, we again pursued our journey, and almost immediately came upon a
long narrow ditch, full of water, and lined by bulrushes. The creek or
river had for some time kept the centre of a deep alluvial valley, in
which there was plenty of food for the cattle, and which, at this
place, was apparently broader than anywhere else. The situation being
favourable, we returned to the camp, and reached it late.
DEPRESSION OF THE MEN.
I do not know whether I was wrong in my conjecture, but I fancied,
about this time, that the men generally were desponding. Whether it was
that the constant fatigue entailed on myself and Mr. Hume, and that our
constant absence, or the consequent exhaustion it produced, had any
effect on their minds, or that they feared the result of our
perseverance, is difficult to say; but certainly, they all had a
depression of spirits, and looked, I thought, altered in appearance;
nor did they evince any satisfaction at our success--at least, not the
satisfaction they would have shown at an earlier period of our journey.
Before moving forward, it remained for us to ascertain if the channel
from the junction was the Castlereagh, or only a creek. The
intersection of so many channels in this neighbourhood, most of them so
much alike, made it essentially necessary that we should satisfy
ourselves on this point. Mr. Hume, therefore, accompanied me, as had at
first been intended the morning of our return to the place at which we
had slept. We took fresh horses, but dispensed with any other
attendants, and indeed went wholly unarmed.
CAMP OF NATIVES.
After following our old track to its termination, we kept up the right
bank of the channel, and at length arrived at the camp of the natives;
thus satisfying ourselves that we had been journeying on the
Castlereagh, and that we were still following it down. By this ride we
ascertained that there was a distance of five-and-forty miles in its
bed without a drop of water. Few of the natives were in the camp. The
women avoided us, but not as if they were under any apprehension.
Crossing at the head of the pool, we again got on our old track, but
seeing two or three men coming towards us we alighted, and, tying our
horses to a tree, went to meet them. One poor fellow had two ducks in
his hand, which he had just taken off the fire; these he offered to us,
and on our declining to accept of them, he called to a boy, who soon
appeared with a large trough of honey, of which we partook. One of the
men had an ulcer in the arm, and asked me what he should do to heal it;
indeed, I believe Fraser had promised him some ointment, but not having
any with me, I signified to him that he should wash it often, and
stooping down, made as if I was taking up water in my hand. The poor
fellow mistook me, and, also stooping down, took up a handful of dust
which he threw over the sore. This gave me the trouble of explaining
matters again, and by pointing to the water, I believe I at length made
him understand me.
DRY CHANNEL OF THE RIVER.
These good natured people asked us where we had slept the day we
passed, and when informed of the direction, shook their heads,
motioning at the same time, that we must have been without water. We
informed them where the party was, and asked them to come and see us,
but I fancy the distance was too great, or else we were in the beat of
another tribe. On mentioning these facts to the men, they said that two
of the natives had followed us for some miles, calling out loudly to
us, but Mr. Hume and I both being in front, we did not hear them,
although, evidently, they wished to save us distress.
Since the result of our excursion proved that the channel, about which
I had been so doubtful, was the Castlereagh, it necessarily followed,
that the creek at which we were encamped was one of those (most
probably Morrisset's chain of ponds,) which we had already crossed
nearer its source, and which Mr. Hume must have struck upon when
endeavouring to gain the Castlereagh from the marshes of the Macquarie.
A perusal of these sheets will ere this have impressed on the reader's
mind, the peculiarity of that fortune which led us from the Castlereagh
to the creek, at which alone our wants could have been supplied. Had we
wandered down the river, as we undoubtedly should have done had we
recognised it as such, the loss of many of our animals would have been
the inevitable consequence, and very probably a final issue would have
been put to our journey. It is only to those who are placed in
situations that baffle their own exertions or foresight, that the
singular guidance of Providence becomes fully apparent.
NATIVES PERISHING FROM FAMINE.
It would appear that the natives were dying fast, not from any disease,
but from the scarcity of food; and, should the drought continue, it
seemed probable they may became extinct.
The men found the body of a woman covered with leaves near the tents,
and very properly buried it. We made Friday a day of rest for
ourselves, as indeed was necessary; and on the following morning
proceeded down the river, and encamped on a high bank above it, at the
base of which, our cattle both fed and watered.
At this spot one of the largest gum-trees I had ever seen had fallen,
having died for want of moisture; indeed, the state of the vegetable
kingdom was such as to threaten its total extinction, unless a change
of seasons should take place.
It may be worthy of remark that, from our first arrival on the banks of
the Castlereagh, to our arrival at the present camp, we never picked up
a stone, or a pebble, in its bed.
JUNCTION OF THE CASTLEREAGH WITH THE DARLING.
In the hope that we should fall on some detached pond, we pursued our
journey on the 29th. The Castlereagh gave singular proofs of its
violence, as if its waters, confined in the valley, had a difficulty in
escaping from it. We had not travelled two miles, when in crossing, as
we imagined, one of its bights, we found ourselves checked by a broad
river. A single glimpse of it was sufficient to tell us it was the
Darling. At a distance of more than ninety miles nearer its source,
this singular river still preserved its character, so strikingly, that
it was impossible not to have recognised it in a moment. The same steep
banks and lofty timber, the same deep reaches, alive with fish, were
here visible as when we left it. A hope naturally arose to our minds,
that if it was unchanged in other respects, it might have lost the
saltness that rendered its waters unfit for use; but in this we were
disappointed--even its waters continued the same. As it was impossible
for us to cross the Darling, I determined on falling back upon our last
encampment, which was at a most Convenient distance, and of concerting
measures there for our future movements. Prior to doing so, however, I
rode to the junction of the Castlereagh with the Darling, accompanied
by Mr. Hume, a distance of about half a mile. Upon the point formed by
the two streams, there were a number of huts, and on the opposite bank
of the Darling, about twenty natives had collected. We called out to
them, but they would not join us.
At the junction, the Castlereagh, with whatever impetuosity it rushes
from its confinement, makes not apparently the least impression on the
Darling River. The latter seemed to loll on, totally heedless of such a
tributary.