CHAPTER XII

LIFE AT MONTEREY

The next day being Sunday, which is the liberty-day among merchantmen,

when it is usual to let a part of the crew go ashore, the sailors had

depended upon a day on land, and were already disputing who should ask

to go, when, upon being called in the morning, we were turned-to upon

the rigging, and found that the topmast, which had been sprung, was to

come down, and a new one to go up, and top-gallant and royal-masts, and

the rigging to be set up. This was too bad. If there is anything that

irritates sailors and makes them feel hardly used, it is being deprived

of their Sabbath. Not that they would always, or indeed generally,

spend it religiously, but it is their only day of rest. Then, too,

they are often necessarily deprived of it by storms, and unavoidable

duties of all kinds, that to take it from them when lying quietly and

safely in port, without any urgent reason, bears the more hardly. The

only reason in this case was, that the captain had determined to have

the custom-house officers on board on Monday, and wished to have his

brig in order. Jack is a slave aboard ship; but still he has many

opportunities of thwarting and balking his master. When there is

danger, or necessity, or when he is well used, no one can work faster

than he; but the instant he feels that he is kept at work for nothing,

no sloth could make less headway. He must not refuse his duty, or be

in any way disobedient, but all the work that an officer gets out of

him, he may be welcome to. Every man who has been three months at sea

knows how to "work Tom Cox's traverse"--"three turns round the

long-boat, and a pull at the scuttled-butt." This morning everything

went in this way. "Sogering" was the order of the day. Send a man

below to get a block, and he would capsize everything before finding

it, then not bring it up till an officer had called him twice, and take

as much time to put things in order again. Marline-spikes were not to

be found; knives wanted a prodigious deal of sharpening, and,

generally, three or four were waiting round the grindstone at a time.

When a man got to the mast-head, he would come slowly down again to get

something which he had forgotten; and after the tackles were got up,

six men would pull less than three who pulled "with a will." When the

mate was out of sight, nothing was done. It was all uphill work; and

at eight o'clock, when we went to breakfast, things were nearly where

they were when we began.

During our short meal, the matter was discussed. One proposed refusing

to work; but that was mutiny, and of course was rejected at once. I

remember, too, that one of the men quoted "Father Taylor," (as they

call the seamen's preacher at Boston,) who told them that if they were

ordered to work on Sunday, they must not refuse their duty, and the

blame would not come upon them. After breakfast, it leaked out,

through the officers, that if we would get through our work soon, we

might have a boat in the afternoon and go fishing. This bait was well

thrown, and took with several who were fond of fishing; and all began

to find that as we had one thing to do, and were not to be kept at work

for the day, the sooner we did it, the better.

Accordingly, things took a new aspect; and before two o'clock this

work, which was in a fair way to last two days, was done; and five of

us went a fishing in the jolly-boat, in the direction of Point Pinos;

but leave to go ashore was refused. Here we saw the Loriotte, which

sailed with us from Santa Barbara, coming slowly in with a light

sea-breeze, which sets in towards afternoon, having been becalmed off

the point all the first part of the day. We took several fish of

various kinds, among which cod and perch abounded, and F----, (the

ci-devant second mate,) who was of our number, brought up with his hook

a large and beautiful pearl-oyster shell. We afterwards learned that

this place was celebrated for shells, and that a small schooner had

made a good voyage, by carrying a cargo of them to the United States.

We returned by sun-down, and found the Loriotte at anchor, within a

cable's length of the Pilgrim. The next day we were "turned-to" early,

and began taking off the hatches, overhauling the cargo, and getting

everything ready for inspection. At eight, the officers of the

customs, five in number, came on board, and began overhauling the

cargo, manifest, etc.

The Mexican revenue laws are very strict, and require the whole cargo

to be landed, examined, and taken on board again; but our agent, Mr.

R----, had succeeded in compounding with them for the two last vessels,

and saving the trouble of taking the cargo ashore. The officers were

dressed in the costume which we found prevailed through the country. A

broad-brimmed hat, usually of a black or dark-brown color, with a gilt

or figured band round the crown, and lined inside with silk; a short

jacket of silk or figured calico, (the European skirted body-coat is

never worn;) the shirt open in the neck; rich waistcoat, if any;

pantaloons wide, straight, and long, usually of velvet, velveteen, or

broadcloth; or else short breeches and white stockings. They wear the

deer-skin shoe, which is of a dark-brown color, and, (being made by

Indians,) usually a good deal ornamented. They have no suspenders, but

always wear a sash round the waist, which is generally red, and varying

in quality with the means of the wearer. Add to this the never-failing

cloak, and you have the dress of the Californian. This last garment,

the cloak, is always a mark of the rank and wealth of the owner. The

"gente de razón," or aristocracy, wear cloaks of black or dark blue

broadcloth, with as much velvet and trimmings as may be; and from this

they go down to the blanket of the Indian; the middle classes wearing

something like a large table-cloth, with a hole in the middle for the

head to go through. This is often as coarse as a blanket, but being

beautifully woven with various colors, is quite showy at a distance.

Among the Mexicans there is no working class; (the Indians being slaves

and doing all the hard work;) and every rich man looks like a grandee,

and every poor scamp like a broken-down gentleman. I have often seen a

man with a fine figure, and courteous manners, dressed in broadcloth

and velvet, with a noble horse completely covered with trappings;

without a real in his pocket, and absolutely suffering for something to

eat.

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