The reindeer of Northern Asia is an essentially different creature from

that of Lapland, for it is not only larger and more stately, but it

is a domestic animal in the best sense of that term. We all imagined

we knew the reindeer; for in Lapland we had examined it precisely

and carefully with the eye of the naturalist; but in Siberia we were

obliged to admit that till then we had gained a very imperfect idea of

this most remarkable of domestic animals. In Lapland we had known

the deer ceaselessly resisting, submitting with visible reluctance to

the yoke of the little men, and always apparently bent on regaining its

freedom; here in Siberia we found a docile, willing animal, attached to

man, and trusting in him. Certainly the Ostiak knows well how to deal

with it. Though he does not treat it with the tenderness he bestows

on his dog, he is, on the whole, not unkind to it, and he is very

rarely rough or brutal. Unlike the Laplander, he refrains from milking

it, but he harnesses it more frequently; for, winter and summer, it

must draw him and his family, the tshum with its appurtenances, and

all the other requisites for the continual migrations. The Lapp, on

the other hand, only harnesses the reindeer to his sledge in winter.

Like the Lapp, the Ostiak makes use of every portion of the carcase

of a slaughtered animal, with the sole exception of the stomach and

intestines. The flesh serves him as food, the bones and horns make all

sorts of implements, the tendons supply twine for sewing his clothing,

that, and whatever else he requires in the way of leather, is furnished

by the skin; even the hoofs are utilized. On a light sledge, drawn by

the reindeer, the Ostiak travels, in summer and in winter, from place

to place--to weddings, to festivals, to the chase, and to the burial

of his friends; with it he draws his dead to their last resting-place;

he slaughters the reindeer and eats it with his guests, or in honour

of his dead, whom he wraps up in its skin, as he does himself. Truly,

without the reindeer he cannot endure, cannot live.

Of scarcely less importance than his horned herds is the Ostiak’s

second domestic animal, the dog. It is possessed and cared for not

only by the wandering herdsman, but by every Ostiak--fisher as well as

huntsman, settler as well as nomad. The Ostiak dog is represented by

two different breeds, whose chief difference, however, is only in size.

Whether our dog-fanciers would find it beautiful I cannot say. For my

part, I must pronounce it beautiful, because, with the sole exception

of the colour, it possesses all the characteristics of a wild dog. It

most resembles the Pomeranian dog, but is usually larger; indeed, it

is often so large as to approach the wolf in size; and its slender

build also distinguishes it from the Pomeranian. The head is elongated,

the muzzle moderately long, the neck short, the body long, the limbs

slender, the tail moderately long, the brassy eyes obliquely set,

the short pointed ears held erect, the hair extraordinarily long and

thick, consisting of a mixture of decidedly woolly and bristly hairs.

The colour varies, but is predominantly pure white, or white with deep

black, usually regular markings on both sides of the head, including

the ears, on the back and on the sides of the body; or it may be wolf

or mouse gray, or dun-coloured, watered and waved, but never striped.

The slightly bushy tail is always carried hanging, or extended, but

never curled, and the resemblance to a wild dog is thereby greatly

increased.

Constant and intimate association with man has transformed the Ostiak

dog into an exceedingly good-natured animal. He is watchful but not

given to biting, brave but not pugnacious, faithful and eager but not

hostile to strangers nor violent. Though he hastens suspiciously,

if not exactly with unfriendliness, towards a stranger, he becomes

confiding as soon as he hears him speak with his master, or sees him

step into the tshum. He is in no way pampered, for though he loves

to share the dwelling of his master or mistress, he exposes himself

without apparent discomfort to wind and weather, throws himself

unhesitatingly into the cold water of the river and swims straight

across a broad arm, or, when on a journey, trots on uncomplainingly

under the sledge to which he is chained, whether the way lead over bog

or morass, among dwarf-birch bushes or through water. Intelligent and

cunning, ingenious and inventive, clever and active, he knows how to

make his life comfortable, and to adapt himself to all situations. In

the tshum he lies self-denyingly beside much-desired foods; outside of

his master’s hut he is a bold and greedy thief; among the dwarf-birches

of the tundra he trots indifferently under the sledge, but over smooth

or other easy ground he places himself with all four legs together on

the runners of the sledge and lets himself be carried. While hunting

he is a faithful and useful assistant to his master, but he snaps away

the game which he has scented and a stranger shot, and devours it with

such an air of inoffensive enjoyment that one cannot be angry with

him. In tending the herds he shows himself acquainted with all the

peculiarities and tricks of the reindeer, and he is docile enough;

but he is never quite so trustworthy as our sheep-dog, for he allows

himself an opinion of his own, and only yields his services without

resisting when it appears to him absolutely necessary.

The Ostiak dog is at once playmate, sentinel of the tshum, guardian of

the herds, and draught animal, and he is made use of even after death.

He is only harnessed to the sledge in winter, but the harness is so

awkward that if he has to exert himself much he becomes in a few years

weak in the loins or hip-shot. After death his splendid coat is much

prized; indeed, many of the Ostiaks evidently keep a disproportionately

large number of dogs solely to have skins at their disposal every

winter.

It is probably for the same or some similar reason that the various

mammals and birds, such as foxes, bears, owls, crows, cranes, swans,

&c., which one sees chained in or before the tent of the fisherman

or the herdsman, are taken from the nest and reared. As long as they

are young they are tended carefully and kindly; whenever they are

full-grown and in good fur or feather they are killed, the edible parts

are eaten, and the skin or feathers made use of or sold, the former

especially often fetching an astonishingly high price.

Here, as everywhere else, the dog submits to man’s will, but man must

adapt himself to the requirements of the reindeer. These requirements,

and not the will or humour of the herdsman, determine the wanderings

of the nomad Ostiak, as the coming and going of the fishes influences

the doings of his relatives in fixed abodes, to a considerable extent

at least. The migrations of the reindeer herdsmen and their herds take

place for almost the same reasons and in the same direction as those

of the Kirghiz, and are distinguished from them chiefly by the fact

that they do not cease in winter, but rather become more constant and

varied. When the snow begins to melt, the Ostiak herdsman travels

slowly towards the mountains; when the mosquito plague begins he

ascends their sides, or at least betakes himself to the shoulders of

the ranges; when it ceases again--and even the open heights are not

entirely free from it--he gradually descends to the low tundra to pass

the winter, if possible on his native river-bank. This is the course

of his life one year after another, unless he is visited by that most

terrible of disasters, the reindeer plague.

Before the short summer comes to the inhospitable land, before even

the first breath of spring is stirring, when a thick sheet of ice

lies still unbroken over the mighty river, its tributaries, and the

innumerable lakes of the tundra, the reindeer bring forth their calves;

it is therefore more than ever necessary to seek out a place which

offers sufficient pasture for both mothers and young. Our herdsman

migrates, therefore, not to the deepest valleys, but to the heights

from whose crests the raging storms of winter have blown away much of

the snow, and here, in the best available spot, he erects his tshum.

For days, even weeks, he remains there until all the exposed reindeer

moss has been eaten up, and the broad hoof of the reindeer itself,

which has been used to clear away the snow, almost refuses duty. Then

the herdsman breaks up his camp, and wends his way to some not far

distant spot, which offers the same attractions as the first. Here,

too, he remains until pasturage becomes too scarce, for this is still

what he looks on as the good season. The herds feed in dense troops;

among the stags, whose antlers have just begun to sprout, the deepest

peace reigns; the calves are never lost sight of by their anxious

parents; the herd neither scatters nor wanders out of hearing of the

loud call which summons them to the tshum at sundown. At night, indeed,

the greedy wolf, which has been driven by winter from the mountains,

prowls around them, but the brave dogs keep sharp watch, and resist the

cowardly robber; and our herdsman therefore is as little troubled about

the wolves as he is about winter, which he, like all the peoples of the

far north, looks on as the best season of the year. The days--still

very short--are gradually lengthening, the nights becoming shorter,

and the dangers threatening his defenceless herds are gradually

diminishing. The river throws off its winter covering; and with the

floods warmed in the steppes of the south, soft winds blow through the

land; one hill-top after another is laid bare of snow, and here, as

well as in the valleys, where the buds are sprouting luxuriantly, the

weather-hardened animals find food in abundance. The low tundra has

become a paradise in the eyes of our herdsman. But this comfortable

life lasts only a short time. The quickly-rising sun, which shines

longer and becomes hotter every day, soon melts the snow in the more

level valleys and the ice in the broad lakes, thaws even the surface

of the frozen earth, and calls into life, along with other harmless

children of the spring, milliards of torturing gnats and persecuting

gadflies, whose larvæ were snorted out of the reindeers’ nostrils only

a few weeks before.[83] Now wandering begins in earnest; the herdsman

travels, in short daily marches, but still hastily, towards the

mountains.

As soon as the dew is dry on the moss, lichens, grasses, and the young

leaves of the dwarf bushes, the women take to pieces the tshum they

erected only the day before, and load the sledges which were only then

unladen. In the meantime the herdsman himself, on his light sledge

drawn by four strong stags, goes in search of the herd scattered about

to find pasture, or resting contentedly in groups, collects them and

drives them towards the camping ground, where the rest of the family

are prepared to receive them. Holding in their hands a thin rope, over

which the reindeer seldom venture to jump, they form a circle round the

herd; the herdsman, with his lasso in his right hand, goes in among

the reindeer, throws his noose almost unfailingly round the neck or

antlers of the chosen stags, secures and harnesses them, orders that

all the others be let loose, mounts his sledge again and drives away

in the direction of the next camping-ground. All the other sledges,

driven by different members of the family, follow him in a long train,

the whole free herd follows them, lowing or grunting, their hoofs

crackling at every step. The dogs run about the whole procession,

barking continually and collecting the animals that are inclined to

wander. They cannot, however, prevent a few from breaking off from the

sides of the herd and remaining behind. The herd spreads out more and

more, picturesquely adorning all the heights; now and again they pause

in groups over some favourite food; importuned by the calves the mother

deer perform their maternal duties, and then, to please their satisfied

offspring, lie down beside them till the eagle eye of the herdsman

spies them, and, taking a wide circuit round the laggards, he drives

them by a word of command, or by the help of the dogs, to join their

fellows trotting briskly on ahead. Amid renewed general grunting, and

loud barking from the dogs, the reassembled herd surges onwards; a very

forest of antlers presses forwards, and something akin to sportsman’s

joy stirs the heart of the spectator who is unfamiliar with the sight.

The sun is declining; the draught animals groan heavily, their tongues

hanging far out of their mouths; it is time to allow them rest. At a

short distance, beside one of the innumerable lakes, there rises a

low flat hill. Towards it the herdsman directs his course, and on its

summit he brings his antlered team to a stand. One sledge after another

arrives; the herd also soon comes up and immediately betakes itself to

the best grazing-ground, quickly followed by the unharnessed draught

animals.

The women select a suitable spot for erecting the tshum, place the

poles upright in a circle, and cover them with the sheets of bark; the

herdsman in the meantime takes his already prepared noose, and with

experienced eye picks out a young, fat stag from the herd. Quickly he

casts the lasso over its horns and neck. In vain the animal struggles

for his freedom; the huntsman comes nearer and nearer, and the reindeer

follows him unresisting towards the tshum, which has now been erected.

An axe-stroke on the back of the head fells the victim to the ground,

and a knife is plunged into his heart. In a couple of minutes the

animal is skinned and dexterously cut up. A minute later all the

members of the family, who have assembled hastily, are dipping strips

of cut-up liver into the blood collected in the breast-cavity, and the

“bloody meal” begins. Crouching in a circle round the still warm stag,

each cuts himself a rib or a piece of the back or haunch; lips become

red as if they had been badly painted; drops of blood flow down over

chin and breast; the hands, too, are stained, and, dripping with blood,

they smear the nose and cheeks; and blood-stained countenances meet

the astonished stranger’s gaze. The baby leaves its mother’s breast to

share in the meal, and after he has swallowed a piece of liver, and

reddened face, hands, and whatever else he can reach, he crows with

joy as his careful mother breaks a marrow-bone and gives it to him to

suck. The dogs sit in a circle behind the feasting company, ready to

snap up the bones which are thrown to them. One after another rises

satisfied from the meal, wipes his blood-stained hands on the moss,

cleans his knife in the same way, and retires into the tshum to rest.

But the housewife fills the cooking-kettle with water, puts into it as

much of the flesh of the half-eaten animal as it will hold, and lights

the fire to prepare the evening meal.

[Illustration: Fig. 64.--Interior of an Ostiak Dwelling (Tshum).]

Meantime the herdsman has thrown off his upper garment and looked

through it hastily, yet not without result, and he has drawn near

the fire so that the flames may play with full effect on the naked

upper portion of his body. He feels comfortable, and begins to think

of another enjoyment. A wonderful man who is travelling towards the

mountains in his company, a German, perhaps even a member of the Bremen

exploring expedition to West Siberia, has not only presented him with

tobacco--horrible stuff, it is true, yet at any rate strong--but he has

also given him a great sheet of paper, a whole _Kölnische Zeitung_.

From this he carefully tears off a small square piece, twists it to

a pointed cornet, fills this with tobacco, bends it in the middle,

and the pipe is ready. A moment later it is alight, and it smells so

pleasant that the wife distends her nostrils, and begs to share the

enjoyment. Her wish is at once granted, and the little pipe wanders

round so that every member of the family may enjoy it in turn.

But the contents of the pot begin to bubble, the supper is ready,

and all “raise their hands to the daintily prepared meal”. Then the

herdsman stands outside the door and utters a far-sounding call of

long-drawn notes, to collect the restless herd once more. This done, he

returns content into the tshum. Here his wife has spread the mosquito

tent and is still busy stuffing its lower edge under the coverlets.

While waiting for this work to be finished the man on his couch amuses

himself by seizing one of the dogs and nursing it like a baby, the

dog enduring it patiently in the consciousness that it is a high

honour. Then the man creeps half-naked under the mosquito net, his

fifteen-year-old son follows his example, the little thirteen-year-old

wife of the latter does the same, the anxious mother sees to the safety

of the little one in the cradle, the nursling already mentioned, lays

more decayed wood on the smoky fire at the entrance to the tshum, shuts

the door, and lies down like the rest. A few minutes later loud snoring

announces that all are sleeping the sleep of the just.

The next morning the same daily round begins again, and so it goes on

until the mountain heights permit of a longer sojourn in one place. The

snow, which falls very early, warns them to return even in August, and

again, this time more slowly and leisurely, herdsmen and herds journey

back to the low grounds.

With the disappearance of the ice the activity of the fishermen on the

river begins. Many of the Ostiak fishermen work in the pay of, or at

least in partnership with the Russians, others only sell to them the

superfluous portion of their catch, and fish on their own account.

Immediately after the ice has broken up, the former class pitch their

tshums beside the fisher huts of the Russians, and the others settle

by the river banks in their summer dwellings--log-huts of the simplest

construction. Where a tributary flows into the river, they raise across

it, or across the mouth of an arm of the stream, a barricade which

leaves only one channel, and in the deep water they place baskets and

set bottom-lines; beyond that they use only drag- and seine-nets.

Bustling activity prevails about all the fishing-stations when the

catch is good. On a shaky stand above the opening in the barricade the

young men, more boys than men, are crouching, peering keenly into the

dark flood beneath them to see whether the fish are going into the

draw-net which they are holding so as to close the channel. From time

to time they lift their burdened net, and empty its contents into their

little boat. The men fish together on a sand-bank with the drag-net, or

in shallower parts of the river with the seine. In the afternoon, or

towards evening the fishermen return home, and the fish are distributed

among the different households. Next morning the women’s work begins.

Singly, or in groups, they sit beside a great fish heap, each provided

with a board and a sharp knife, and scale, gut, split, and crimp the

fish, afterwards stringing them on long thin sticks, which are hung up

on the drying-stands to dry. With dexterous and certain strokes the

abdominal cavity is opened and the side muscles separated from the

backbone, a few touches more separate the liver and other viscera from

the head, ribs, and more valuable side portions of the body. Liver

after liver slips between the smacking lips; for the women have not yet

broken their fast and they take the titbits as a preliminary snack. If

they are still unsatisfied, a fish is scaled, gutted, and cut in long

strips, the end of one of these is dipped into the trickling blood and,

thus seasoned, is put into the mouth, divided into suitable mouthfuls

with quick knife-strokes which seem to pass perilously near the point

of the eater’s nose. The children playing about their busy mothers

receive pieces of liver or strips of muscle according to their size;

four-year-olds use the knife to cut the pieces almost as cleverly as

their elders, who invariably divide their fish or strips of reindeer

flesh in this manner. Soon the faces of mothers and children shine

with fish blood and liver oil, and the hands glisten with adhering

fish-scales. When all the fishes are scaled, split, and hung up to dry,

the dogs which have been sitting, covetous but not importunate, beside

the women, receive their portion also--the scales and debris, which are

thrown into a heap amid which the black muzzles burrow eagerly.

The morning work is over, and a short period of rest has been earned.

The mothers take their children on their laps, suckle the nurslings,

and then proceed to a work which is absolutely necessary, not only to

the little ones’ comfort but to their own--the hunt for parasites. One

child after another lays its head in its mother’s lap, and finally

she lays her own in that of her eldest daughter or of a friend who

hopes for a similar service, and the hunt proves productive. That the

booty secured is put between the lips, and if not actually eaten, at

least bitten to death, is nothing new to a naturalist who has observed

monkeys, and it confirms those who see more than a mere hypothesis in

Darwin’s doctrine, or in the belief that men may exhibit atavism, or a

reversion to the habits of a remote ancestor.

The sun is sinking, the men, youths, and boys come back with a new

and rich harvest. They have eaten raw fish as they required, but now

their souls long for warm food. A great steaming kettle of cooked fish,

delicious salmonoids (genus Coregonus), the nearest relative of the

salmon, is set before them; its accompaniment is bread dipped in and

thoroughly saturated with fish fat. Brick-tea,[84] put on the fire with

cold water and boiled for a long time, brings the meal to an end.

“But when the desire for food and drink is appeased” the spirit also

longs for satisfaction, and the musician with harp or zither of his own

manufacture is eagerly welcomed, whether to play one of their strange,

old, indescribable melodies, or an accompaniment to the quaint dance of

the women, in which they raise themselves and sink again, throw one arm

round the other, stretch both out, and drop them to their sides. These

amusements last until the mosquito-curtain is prepared, then here, too,

old and young disappear beneath its folds.

The summer is past, and winter follows the short autumn. A new activity

comes into play with the migration of the birds; a new, indeed the

full, true life of the Ostiaks begins with winter. For the departing

summer guests the treacherous net is spread. Gaps are cut in the dense

willow growth of the banks on the direct course between two large

sheets of water, and in each space is spread a thin, easily-moved limed

net, into which fly not only ducks, but geese, swans, and cranes. These

are welcome booty, both on account of flesh and feathers, for birds

of all kinds form a considerable portion of the food not only of the

Ostiaks but of all the dwellers in the river-basin. At the time when

the bird-catcher begins his work the nomad herdsman sets out on the

chase, and sets his fall-traps in the tundra for the red and Arctic

foxes, or in the forest, in company with his more settled relatives,

he sets snares, spring-bows, and self-acting cross-bows for wolves

and foxes, sables and ermines, gluttons and squirrels. If snow has

fallen, the experienced huntsman buckles on his snow-shoes, puts on his

snow-spectacles, and betakes himself with his fleet dog to the tundra

or the forest to seek out the bear in his den, to follow the track of

the lynx, to chase the elk and the wild reindeer, now impeded by the

snow, which will not bear their weight though it bears the huntsman’s.

He has never lied, never sworn falsely by the bear’s tooth, never done

a wrong, and the bear is therefore powerless against him, the elk and

the reindeer are not fleet enough to escape him! When a bear has been

shot he returns triumphantly to the village, neighbours and friends

gather round him in the tshum, rejoicing, and as the general jubilation

infects him, he slips quietly away, disguises himself, puts on a

mask, and begins the bear-dance, executing wonderful movements, which

are meant to mimic and illustrate those of the bear in all the varied

circumstances of his life.

From North Pole to Equator: Studies of Wild Life and Scenes in Many Lands · 第 34 / 47 段