CHAPTER I.

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BORDER AND BASTILLE.

BY GEORGE A. LAWRENCE

THE AUTHOR OF "GUY LIVINGSTONE"

New York:

W. I. POOLEY & CO.,

Harpers' Building, Franklin Square.

WYNKOOP, HALLENBECK & THOMAS, PRINTERS,

No. 113 Fulton Street, New York.

L'ENVOI.

When, late in last autumn, I determined to start for the Confederate

States as soon as necessary preparations could be completed, I had

listened, not only to my own curiosity, impelling me at least to see one

campaign of a war, the like of which this world has never known, but

also to the suggestions of those who thought that I might find materials

there for a book that would interest many here in England. My intention,

from the first, was to serve as a volunteer-aide in the staff of the

army in Virginia, so long as I should find either pen-work or handiwork

to do. The South might easily have gained a more efficient recruit; but

a more earnest adherent it would have been hard to find. I do not

attempt to disguise the fact that my predilections were thoroughly

settled long before I left England; indeed, it is the consciousness of a

strong partisan spirit at my heart which has made me strive so hard, not

only to state facts as accurately as possible, but to abstain from

coloring them with involuntary prejudice.

To say nothing of my being afterwards backed by the powerful

Secessionist interest at Baltimore, the introductory letters furnished

me by Colonel Dudley Mann and Mr. Slidell, addressed to the most

influential personages--civil and military--in the Confederacy, from

President Davis downwards, were such as could hardly have failed to

secure me the position I desired, though they benevolently over

estimated the qualifications of the bearer. To the first of these

gentlemen I am indebted for much kindness and valuable advice; to the

second I am personally unknown; and I am glad to have this opportunity

of acknowledging his ready courtesy. It was Colonel Mann who counseled

my going through the Northern States, instead of attempting to run the

blockade from Nassau or Bermuda, as I had originally intended. In spite

of the events, I am so certain that the advice was sound and wise, that

I do not repent--scarcely regret--having followed it.

I need not particularize the precaution taken to insure the safe

delivery of these credentials: it is sufficient to state that they were

never submitted to Federal inspection; nor had I ever, at any time, in

my possession, a single document which could vitiate my claim to the

rights of a neutral and civilian. Even Mr. Seward did not pretend to

refuse liberty of unexpressed sympathy with either side to an utter

foreigner. While I was a free agent in the Northern States, I was

careful to indulge in no other.

Since my return, I hear that some one has been kind enough to insinuate

that I might have succeeded better if I had been more careful to

prosecute my journey South with vigor at any risk; or if I had been less

imprudent in parading my object while in Baltimore. I prefer to meet the

first of these assertions by a simple record of facts, and by the most

unqualified denial that it is possible to give to any falsehood, written

or spoken. As to the second--really quite as unfounded--it may be well

to say, that before I had been a full fortnight in America, I was

"posted" in the literary column of "Willis' Home Journal." I could not

quarrel with the terms in which the intelligence--avowedly copied from

an English paper--was couched. The writer seemed to know rather more

about my intentions--if not of my antecedents--than I knew myself; but I

can honestly say that the halo of romance with which he was pleased to

surround a very practical purpose, did not however compensate me for the

inconvenient publicity. This paragraph soon found its way into other

journals, and at last confronted me--to my infinite disgust--in the

"Baltimore Clipper," a bitter Unionist organ.

Perhaps this will answer sufficiently the accusation of "parade," for

even had we been disposed to indulge in an "alarum and flourish of

trumpets," the sensation-mongers would have anticipated the absurdity.

Besides this, my movements were not in anywise interfered with up to the

moment of my arrest, when we were miles beyond all Federal pickets. My

captors, of course, had never heard of my existence till we met. It is

more than probable that the report just referred to did greatly

complicate my position when I was actually in confinement; but here my

person--not my plans--suffered, and here, the real mischief of that very

involuntary publicity began and ended.

After my plans were finally arranged, I had an interview with the

editorial powers of the _Morning Post_; there it was settled that I

should communicate to that journal as constantly as circumstances would

permit, any interesting matter or incidents that fell in my way, in

consideration of which was voted a liberal supplement of the sinews of

war; but it was clearly understood that my movements and line of action

were to be absolutely untrammeled. I could not have entered into any

contract that in any way interfered with the primary object I had in

view. I had no intention of commencing such correspondence before I had

actually crossed the southern frontier, so that one letter from

Baltimore--afterwards quoted--was the solitary contribution I was able

to furnish.

I have said thus much, because I wish any one who may be interested on

the point to know clearly on what footing I stood at starting: for the

general public, of course, the subject cannot have the slightest

interest.

Of all compositions, I suppose, a personal narrative is the most

wearying to the writer, if not to the reader; egotistical talk may be

pleasant enough, but, commit it to paper, the fault carries its own

punishment. The recurrence of that everlasting first pronoun becomes a

real stumbling-block to one at last. Yet there is no evading it, unless

you cast your story into a curt, succinct diary; to carry this off

effectively, requires a succession of incidents, more varied and

important than befell me.

A failure--absolute and complete--however brought about, is a fair mark

for mockery, if not for censure. Perhaps, however, I may hope that some

of my readers, in charity, if not in justice, will believe that I have

honestly tried to avoid over-coloring details of personal adventure, and

that no word here is set down in willful insincerity or malice, though

all are written by one whose enmity to all purely republican

institutions will endure to his life's end.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. A Foul Start

CHAPTER II. Congressia

CHAPTER III. Capua

CHAPTER IV. Friends in Council

CHAPTER V. The Ford

CHAPTER VI. The Ferry

CHAPTER VII. Fallen Across the Threshold

CHAPTER VIII. The Road to Avernus

CHAPTER IX. Caged Birds

CHAPTER X. Dark Days

CHAPTER XI. Homeward Bound

CHAPTER XII. A Popular Armament

CHAPTER XIII. The Debatable Ground

CHAPTER XIV. Slavery and the War

BORDER AND BASTILLE

CHAPTER I.

A FOUL START.

Looking back on an experience of many lands and seas, I cannot recall a

single scene more utterly dreary and desolate than that which awaited

us, the outward-bound, in the early morning of the 20th of last

December. The same sullen neutral tint pervaded and possessed

everything--the leaden sky--the bleak, brown shores over against us--the

dull graystone work lining the quays--the foul yellow water--shading one

into the other, till the division-lines became hard to discern. Even

where the fierce gust swept off the crests of the river wavelets,

boiling and breaking angrily, there was scant contrast of color in the

dusky spray, or murky foam.

The chafing Mersey tried in vain to make himself heard. All other

sounds--a voice, for instance, two yards from your ear--were drowned by

the trumpet of the strong northwester. All through the past night, we

listened to that note of war; we could feel the railway carriages

trembling and quivering, as if shaken by some rude giant's hand, when

they halted at any exposed station; and, this morning, the pilots shake

their wise, grizzled beads, and hint at worse weather yet in the offing.

For forty-eight hours the storm-signals had never been lowered, nor

changed, except to intimate the shifting of a point or two in the

current of the gale, and few vessels, if any, had been found rash enough

to slight "the admiral's" warning.

It had been gravely discussed, we heard afterwards, by the owners and

captain of "The Asia," whether she should venture to sea that day;

finally, the question was left to the latter to decide. There are as

nice points of honor, and as much jealous regard for professional credit

in the merchant service as in any other. Only once, since the line was

started, has a "Cunarder" been kept in port by wind or weather--this was

the commander's first trip across the Atlantic since his promotion; you

may guess which way the balance turned.

We waited on the landing-stage one long cold hour. The huge square

structure, ordinarily steady and solid as the mainland itself, was

pitching and rolling not much less "lively" than a Dutch galliot in a

sea-way; and the tug that was to take us on board parted three hawsers

before she could make fast alongside. It was hard to keep one's footing

on the shaking, slippery bridge, but in ten minutes all staggered or

tumbled, as choice or chance directed, on to the deck of the little

steamer. I was looking for a dry corner, when an American passenger made

room for me very courteously, and I begun to talk to him--about the

weather, of course. It was a keen, intellectual face, pleasant withal,

and kindly, and in its habitual expression not devoid of genial humor.

But, at that moment, it was possessed by an unutterable misery. No

wonder.

"I was ill the whole way over from America," he said, "and _then_ we

started with bright weather and a fair wind."

I was much attracted by the voice, betraying scarcely any Transatlantic

accent: it was quiet and calm in tone, like that of any brave man on his

way to encounter some irresistible pain or woe; but saddened by an agony

of anticipation, he presaged, only too truly, "the burden of the

atmosphere and the wrath to come."

Another struggle and scramble--and we are on board, at last. It is some

comfort to exchange that wretched little wet tug for the deck of the

Asia; though a trifle unsteady even now, she oscillates after the sober

and stately fashion befitting a mighty "liner." Half an hour sees the

end of the long stream of mail-bags, and the huge bales of newspapers

shipped; then the moorings are cast loose; there rises the faintest echo

of a cheer--who could be enthusiastic on such a morning?--the vast

wheels turn slowly and sullenly, as if hating the hard work before them;

and we are fairly off.

The waves and weather grew rapidly wilder; as we neared blue water, just

after passing the light, we saw a large ship driving helplessly and--the

sailors said--hopelessly, among the breakers of the North Sands. She had

tried to run in without a pilot, and _ours_ seemed to think her fate the

justest of judgments; but to disinterested and unprofessional spectators

the sight was very sad, and somewhat discouraging. So with omen and

augury, as well as the wind dead against us.

"The Sword went out to sea."

All that day and night "The Asia" staggered and weltered on through the

yeasty channel waves, breaking in her passengers rather roughly for a

conflict with vaster billows. Thirteen hours of hard steaming barely

brought us abreast of Holyhead. The gale moderated towards morning, and

we ran along the Irish coast under a blue sky, making Queenstown shortly

after sundown.

By this time I had become acquainted with my cabin-mate, in which

respect I was singularly fortunate. M. ---- was a thorough Parisian,

and a favorable specimen of his class. Small of stature, and

slender of proportion--a very important point where space is so

limited--low-voiced, and sparing of violent expletives or gestures,

delicately neat in his person and apparel, one could hardly have

selected a more amiable colleague under circumstances of some

difficulty. I can aver that he conducted himself always with a perfect

modesty and decorum: he would preserve his equilibrium miraculously,

when his perpendicular had been lost long ago: he never fell upon me but

once (sleeping on a sofa, I was exposed defenselessly to all such

contingencies), and then lightly as thistle-down. On the rare occasions

when the _mal-de-mer_ proved too much for his valiant self-assertion, he

yielded to an overruling fate without groan or complaint: folding the

scanty coverlet around him, he would subside gradually into his berth,

composing his little limbs as gracefully as Cæsar. His courtesy was

invincible and untiring: he was anxious to defer and conform even to my

insular prejudices. Discovering that I was in the habit of daily

immersing in cold water--a feat not to be accomplished without much

toil, trouble, and abrasion of the cuticle--he thought it necessary to

simulate a like performance, though nothing would have tempted him to

incur such needless danger. His endeavors to mislead me on this point,

without actually committing himself, were ingenious and wily in the

extreme. Sitting in the saloon at the most incongruous hours of day and

night, he would exclaim, "J'ai l'idée de prendre bientôt mon bain!" or

he would speak with a shiver of recollection of the imaginary plunge

taken that morning. I don't think I should ever have been deluded, even

if my curiosity had not led me to question the steward; but never, by

word or look, did I impugn the reality of that Barmecide bath. To his

other accomplishments, M. ---- added a very pretty talent for piquet;

the match was even enough, though, to be interesting, at almost nominal

stakes, and so we got pleasantly through many hours--dark, wet, or

boisterous.

We were not a numerous company--only thirty-three in all. Few amateurs

travel at this inclement season. I knew only one other Englishman on

board, an officer in the Rifle Brigade, returning to Canada from

sick-leave. Among the Americans was Cyrus Field, the energetic promoter

of the Atlantic Telegraph, then making (I think he said) his thirtieth

transit within five years. He was certainly entitled to the freedom of

the ocean, if intimate acquaintance with every fathom of its depth and

breadth could establish a claim. It rather surprised me, afterwards, to

see such science and experience yield so easily to the common weakness

of seafaring humanity. Mr. Field told me that throughout the fearful

weather to which the Niagara and Agamemnon were exposed, on their first

attempt to lay down the cable, he never once felt a sensation of nausea;

the body had not time to suffer till the mind was relieved from its

heavy, anxious strain.

For three days after leaving Queenstown, the west winds met us, steady

and strong; but it was not till the afternoon of Christmas day that the

sea began to "get up" in earnest, and the weather to portend a gale.

Then, the Atlantic seemed determined to prove that report had not

exaggerated the hardships of a winter passage. It blew harder and harder

all Friday, and after a brief lull on Saturday--as though gathering

breath for the final onset--the storm fairly reached its height, and

then slowly abated, leaving us substantial tokens of its visit in the

shape of shattered boats, and the ruin of all our port bulwarks forward

of the deck-house. I fancy there was nothing extraordinary in the

tempest; and, in a stout ship, with plenty of sea room, there is

probably little real danger; but about the intense discomfort there

could be no question. I speak with no undue bitterness, for of nausea,

in any shape, I know of little or nothing, but--oh, mine enemy!--if I

could feel certain you were well out in the Atlantic, experiencing, for

just one week, the weather that fell to our lot, I would abate much of

my animosity, purely from satiation of revenge.

Unless absolutely prostrated by illness, the voyager, of course, has a

ravenous appetite; such being the case, what can be more exasperating

than having to grapple with a sort of dioramic dinner, where the dishes

represent a series of dissolving views--mutton and beef of mature age,

leaping about with a playfulness only becoming living lambs and

calves--while the proverb of "cup and lip" becomes a truism from

perpetual illustration? Neither is it agreeable, after falling into an

uncertain doze, to feel dampness mingling strangely with your dreams,

and to awake to find yourself, as it were, an island in a little salt

lake formed by distillation through invisible crevices.

"Oh, laith, laith were our gude Scot lords

To wet their cork-heeled shoon,"

says the grand old ballad; so, I suppose, it is nothing "unbecoming the

character of an officer and a gentleman" to hold such midnight

irrigation in utter abhorrence.

On one of these occasions I abandoned a post no longer tenable, and went

into the small saloon close by, to seek a dry spot whereon to finish the

night, I found it occupied by a ghastly man, with long, wild gray hair,

and a white face--striding staggeringly up and down--moaning to himself

in a harsh, hollow voice, "No rest; I can't rest." He never spoke any

other words, and never ceased repeating these, while I remained to hear

him. Instantly there came back to my memory a horrible German tale, read

and forgotten fifteen years ago, of a certain old and unjust steward,

Daniel by name, who, having murdered his master by casting him down an

oubliettes, ever haunted the fatal tower, first as a sleep-walker, then

as a restless ghost--moaning and gibbering to himself, and tearing at a

walled-up door with bleeding hands. The train of thought thereby

suggested was so very sombre, that I preferred returning to my cabin,

and climbing into an unfurnished berth, to spending more minutes in that

weird company. I never made the man out satisfactorily afterwards. It is

possible that he was one of the few who scarcely showed on deck, till we

were in sight of land; but rather, I believe, like other visions and

voices of the night, he changed past recognition under the garish light

of day.

Then come the noisy nuisances, extending through all the diapason of

sound. One--the most annoying--to which the ear never becomes callous by

use, is the incessant crash, not only alongside, but overhead. At

intervals--more frequent, of course, after our bulwarks were swept

away--the green water came tumbling on board by tons; and, being unable

to escape quickly enough by the after-scuppers, surged backwards and

forwards with every roll of the vessel, as if it meant to keep you down

and bury you forever. Lying in my berth, I could feel the heavy seas

smite the strong ship one cruel blow after another on her bows or beam,

till at last she would seem to stop altogether, and, dropping her head,

like a glutton in the P. R., would take her punishment sullenly, without

an effort at rising or resistance. Nevertheless, I stand by "The Asia,"

as a right good boat for rough weather, though she is not a flyer, and

sometimes could hardly do more than hold her own. Eighty-one knots in

the twenty-four hours was all the encouragement the log could give one

day.

I liked our commander exceedingly. He had just left the Mediterranean

station, and there still abode with him a certain languid levantine

softness of voice and manner; when he came in to dinner, out of the wild

weather, the moral contrast with the turmoil outside was quite

refreshing. Report speaks highly of Captain Grace's seamanship; and I

believe in him far more implicitly than I should in one of those hoarse

and blusterous Tritons, who think roughness and readiness inseparable,

and talk to you as if they were hailing a consort.

The library on board was not extensive, consisting (with the exception

of "The Newcomes") chiefly of religious works of the Nonconformist

school, and tales, which have long ago passed into surplus stock, or

been withdrawn from general circulation. But there was one invaluable

novel, which I shall always remember gratefully. I never got quite

through it, but I read enough to be enabled to affirm, that its

principles are unexceptionable, its style grammatically faultless, and

its purpose sustained (ah, how pitilessly!) from first to last. The few

amatory scenes are conducted with the most rigid propriety; and when

there occurs a lover's quarrel, the parties hurl high moral truths at

each other, instead of idle reproaches. But it is mainly as a soporific,

that I would recommend "_Silwood_:" on four different occasions, under

most trying circumstances it succeeded perfectly and promptly with me,

for which relief--unintentional, perchance--I tender much thanks to the

unknown author, and wish "more power to his arm."

Quite crippled for the time being by rheumatism, I was in bad form for

clambering about the sloping, slippery planks; nevertheless I did

contrive to crawl up to the hurricane-deck just before sundown, about

the crisis of the gale. I confess to being disappointed in the

"rollers:" it may be that their vast breadth and volume takes off from

their apparent height, but I scarcely thought it reached Dr. Scoresby's

standard--from 26 to 30 feet, if I remember right, from trough to crest.

One realizes thoroughly the _abysmal_ character of the turbulent chaos,

and there is a sensation of infiniteness around and below you not devoid

of grandeur; but as an exhibition of the puissance of angry water, I do

not think the mid-ocean tempest equal to the storm which brings the

thunder of the surf full on the granite bulwarks of Western Ireland.

It must be owned, that the conversational powers of our small society

were limited. Very often some selfishness mingled with my sincere

compassion for the prostrated sufferings of my Philadelphian friend of

the tug-boat; for whenever his weary aching head would allow of the

exertion, he could talk on almost any subject, fluently and well. He was

returning from a long visit to Paris, and a rapid tour through Germany

and Southern Europe. Most of the countries, that he had been compelled

to hurry over, I had loitered through in days past, and I ought to have

been shamed by the contrast in our recollections--his, so clear and

systematical--mine, so vague and dim. An intellectual American

travelling through strange lands does certainly look at nature, animate

and inanimate, after a practical business-like fashion peculiar to his

race; but it would be unfair to infer that such minds are, necessarily,

unappreciative. At all events, that concentrative, synthetical power,

that takes in surrounding objects at a single glance, and retains them

in a tolerably distinct classification, is rather enviable, even as a

mental accomplishment.

We did not speak much about the troubles beyond sea, and the

Philadelphian was rather reserved as to his proclivities. My impression

is, that his sympathy tended rather southward (all his early life had

been spent in Alabama), but he declined to commit himself much, nor do I

believe that he was a violent partisan either way. On one point he was

very decided: Falkland himself could not have wished more devoutly for

the termination of a fatal civil war--fatal, he said, to the interests,

present and future, of both the combatant powers--ruinous to every

class, with two exceptions; the adventurers who, having little to lose,

gained, by joining the ranks of either army, a social position to which

they could not otherwise have aspired; and the speculators, who,

directly or indirectly, fairly or unfairly, made gains vast and unholy,

such as wreckers are wont to gather in time of tempest and general

disaster. He scarcely alluded to the corruption and peculation prevalent

in all high places, diluted in its downward percolation till sutlers and

horse-thieves would strive in vain to emulate the fraudulent audacity of

their superiors. It was well he spared me then, for soon after landing,

my eyes and ears grew weary with the repetition of all these ignoble

details. To illustrate how heavily the taxes were already beginning to

weigh on the non-militant part of the population, my informant proved to

me by very clear figures that, if he individually could secure permanent

exemption from such burdens by the absolute sacrifice of one-tenth of

his whole property, real and personal, the commutation, would be

decidedly advantageous to him. True, he represented a class whose

incomes exceeded a certain standard, and therefore suffered rather more

heavily; but the same calculation, with very slight alterations, applied

to all other subordinate ones.

Grave and mild of speech was the Philadelphian philosopher, without a

trace of dogmatism or self-assertion in his tone; nevertheless, I judged

him to be a man of mark somewhere, and I afterwards heard that, albeit

not a violent or prominent politician, he had great honor in his own

country.

Strong head-winds and a heavy sea baffled us till we had cleared the

longitude of Cape Race; then the weather softened, the breeze veered

round till it blew on our quarter, and we had clear sky above us all the

way in. We sighted the first pilot-boat on the afternoon of January 3d,

and, as she came sweeping down athwart us, with her broad, white wings

full spread, our glasses soon made out the winning number of the

sweepstakes, "22." It was long past dinner hour when the beautiful

little schooner rounded to, under our lee, but all appetite just then

was merged in a craving for latest intelligence.

It was a caricaturist's study--the crowd of keen, anxious faces round

the gangway--as the pilot came aboard. He was a stout man, of

agricultural exterior, looking as if he were in the habit of ploughing

anything rather than the deep sea; but it is the fashion of his guild to

eschew the nautical as much as possible in their attire. The "anxious

inquirers" got little satisfaction from him--he seemed taciturn by

nature, if not sullen--and they came back to where the rest of us stood

on the hurricane deck, muttering discontentedly, "Gold at 46. No news."

It seemed very odd--such a complete stagnation of affairs, military and

civil--but we went to dinner in spite of our disappointment. Before we

rose from table the truth began to ooze out. One or two New York papers,

that had slipped on board with the pilot, were more communicative than

he would or could be.

Thousands of corpses, the full tale of which will never be known till

the day of judgment, lying rolled in blood, with a handful of earth

raked over them under the fatal Fredericksburg heights; the finest army

in Federaldom hurled back upon its intrenchments; nothing but darkness

covering a disastrous, if not shameful defeat; the papers crowded with

dreary funeral notices, showing how, to every great city of the North,

from hospital and battle-ground, the slain are being gathered in, to be

buried among their own people; a wail of widows and orphans and mothers,

from homestead, hamlet, and town, overpowering with its simple energy,

the bombastic war-notes and false stage-thunder of the press; rumors of

a terrible battle in the far West, where, after three days' hard

fighting, Rosecrans barely holds his own, and yet "_there are no

news_!"

It is an excellent quality in a soldier not to know when he is beaten,

but whether blind obstinacy will succeed when it influences the rulers

and destinies of a great nation, is more than questionable. Pondering

these things, I remembered how, four thousand years ago, a stiff-necked

generation were brought to their senses and on their knees. It was on

the morning after the visit of the Dark Angel, when Egypt awoke, and

found not a house in which there was not one dead. If such fearful waste

of life goes on here, with no decisive or final advantage on either side

attained, that ancient curse may not be long in recurring.

I rose when the sun ought to have risen, on the following morning,

intending to admire the famous harbor which Americans love to compare

with the Neapolitan Bay. But long before we reached the Narrows,

"A blinding mist came up and hid the land

As far as eye could see."

Very soon we were buried in fog, dense and Cimmerian, as ever brooded

over our own Thames or the Righi panorama. More and more slowly the

paddles turned, till they stopped altogether. It was dangerous to

advance, ever so cautiously, when the keenest sight could not pierce

half a ship's length ahead. So there we lay at anchor for weary hours,

listening to the church-bells chiming drowsily through the heavy air,

till an enterprising tug ventured out for the mails, and sent another

for the relief of the passengers.

The custom-house officers were not troublesome, and I was soon at the

Brevoort House, the Parisian Pylades still faithfully following my

fortunes. I was far from entreating him to leave me; landing utterly

alone in a strange land, one does not lightly cast aside companionship.

For reasons easily understood, I had declined to avail myself of many

proffered letters of introduction to New Yorkers.

That lonely feeling did not last long: the first object which caught my

eye on the steps of the Brevoort House was an honest English face--a

face I have known, and liked right well, these dozen years and more.

There stood "the Colonel" (any Ch. Ch. or Rifle Brigade man will

recognize the _sobriquet_), beaming upon the world in general with the

placid cheerfulness that no changes of time or place or fortune seem

able to alter, looking just as comfortable and thoroughly "at home" as

he did, steering Horniblow to victory at Brixworth. I had heard that my

old friend was on his way to England to join the Staff College, but had

never reckoned on such a successful "nick" as this. By my faith, my

turns of luck beyond the Atlantic were not so frequent as to excuse

forgetfulness, when they did befall.

So I had aid and abetment in performing the little lionization which is

obligatory on a visitor to New York; for the "Colonel's" comrade, my

fellow-voyager of the Asia, came to the same hotel.

Assisted by the Parisian, we made trial of the esculents peculiar to the

country--gombo soup, sweet potatoes, terrapins, and canvas-backs--with

much solemnity and satisfaction, agreeing, that fame had spoken truth

for once, in extolling the two last-named delicacies. We went to the

Opera, and there, in a brilliant _salle_ of white and gold, spoilt,

however, by the incongruity of bonnets mingling everywhere with full

evening toilettes, assisted at a massacre--unmusical and melancholy--of

"Lucrezia." We drove out through the crude, unfinished Central Park to

Harlem lane, whither the trotters are wont to resort, and saw several

teams looking very much like work (though no celebrities), almost all of

the lean, rather ragged form which characterizes, more or less, all

American-bred "fast horses." The ground was too hard frozen to allow of

anything beyond gentle exercise; but even at quarter-speed, that

wonderful hind-action was very remarkable. Watching those clean, sinewy

pasterns shoot forward--well _outside_ of the fore hoof-track--straight

and swift as Mace's arm in an "upper-cut," you marvel no longer at the

mile-time which hitherto has seemed barely credible.

Perhaps this same bitter weather may account for our disappointment in

the brilliancy of Broadway. Several careful reviews of the sunny side

failed to detect anything dangerously attractive in beauty, equipage, or

attire. It is probable that most of the _lionnes_ had laid them down in

their delicate dens, waiting for a more clement season, to renew

external depredations; though sometimes you could just catch a glimpse

of bright eyes and a little pink nose peering over dark fur wrappings,

as a brougham or barouche, carefully closed, swept quickly by. We

visited Barnum, of course. I think a conversational and communicative

Albino was the most note-worthy curiosity in the Museum, chiefly, from

his intense appreciation of the imposture of the whole concern,

originated and directed by the King of Humbugdom.

The sanguine popular mind was unusually depressed just then. The

President's emancipatory proclamation had recently issued, and seemed to

adapt itself, with wonderful elasticity, to the discontents of all

parties; not comprehensive enough for the ultra-Abolitionists, it was

stigmatized by the Democrats as unconstitutional and oppressive; while

moderate politicians agreed that, beyond irritating feelings already

bitter enough, it would be practically invalid as an offensive measure.

We shall see, hereafter, how these prognostications were justified.

But the first word in all men's mouths, for a day or two at least after

my arrival, was--Monitor. That same gale which had buffeted the Asia so

rudely on the high seas, had raged yet more savagely shorewards: the

Merrimac's antagonist, like a drowning paladin of the mail-clad days,

had sunk under her mighty armor, and now, with half her crew in their

iron coffin, lay at rest in the crowded burial-ground on which Cape

Hatteras looks down. Great discouragement and consternation--greater

than has often been caused by the loss of any single vessel--fell upon

all the North when the news came in. Ever since her famous duel, which

the Federals never would allow was a drawn battle, they had elevated the

Monitor into a national champion, and prophesied weeping in the South if

she and their batteries should meet: few then dared to insinuate a doubt

about Charleston's certain fall, when once the leaguer was fairly

mustered for assault. Grave doubts were now expressed as to the

seaworthiness of all the new iron-clads, though their advocates could

point to a sister of the unhappy Monitor, which had survived a great

part of the same storm. That they all must be more unsafe in really

rough weather than the crankiest of our old "coffin brigs," seems quite

ascertained now: the fact of their being unable to make headway through

a heavy sea unless towed by a consort, speaks for itself. The immediate

cause of the Monitor's foundering (according to Captain Worden's

account, which my informant had from his own lips) was a leak sprung,

where her protruding stern-armour, coming down flat on the waves with

every plunge of the vessel, became loosened from the main hull; but, for

some time before this was discovered, she seems to have spent more

minutes under than above the water, and nothing alive could have stood

unlashed for a second on her deck. So great was the public

disappointment, that the tribe of false prophets--whose cry of "Go up to

Ramoth Gilead, and prosper," deafens us here, not less, usually in

defeat than in success--did for awhile abate their blatancy; while

Ericsson--most confident of projectors--spake softly, below his breath,

as he suggested faint excuse and encouragement.

The news from the West--hourly improving, and more clearly

confirmed--were hardly welcomed, as they deserved, and scarcely

counter-balanced the naval disaster. It was not long, however, before

Rosecrans the Invincible came in for his full share of credit--perhaps

not more than he merited. Few other Federal commanders can claim that

epithet; and, though some people persisted in considering Murfreesburg a

Pyrrhic victory, it is certain that he held his ground manfully, and

eventually advanced, where defeat, or even a retrograde movement, would

have been simply ruin.

On the fifth day our small company were scattered--each going his own

way, east, north, and south--while the Parisian abode in New York still.

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