Wash and cut open, then take out the mea_The English Housekeeper: Or, Manual of Domestic Management Containing advice on the conduct of household affairs and practical instructions concerning the store-room, the pantry, the larder, the kitchen, the cellar, the dairy; the whole being intended for the use of young ladies who undertake the superintendence of their own housekeeping

herrings, mince the fish with cold chicken, two hard-boiled eggs, one

onion, a boned anchovy, and a little grated ham, season with cayenne,

vinegar, and oil, salt, if necessary; and serve the mince, garnished with

{132}heaps of chopped boiled egg, parsley and pickles, also spun butter.

_Oysters to Stew._

Choose plump natives, beard and stew two dozen in their own liquor, till

just coming to a boil; take them out and lay them in a dish, whilst you

strain the liquor into a saucepan; add a little piece of butter rubbed in

flour, a blade of mace, a few peppercorns, lemon peel, three

table-spoonsful of cream, and a little cayenne. Lay the oysters in, cover

the saucepan, and let them simmer five minutes, very gently. Have toasted

sippets in a deep dish, take out the oysters when done with a silver spoon,

lay them in and pour the gravy over.--The French strew grated parmesan over

the oysters, before the sauce. _Oysters to Grill._--Toss them in a stew-pan

in a little of their own liquor, a piece of butter, and a little chopped

parsley, but do not let them boil. Clean their own shells, lay an oyster in

each, and some little bits of butter. Put the shells on the gridiron, in

two minutes they will be done. _Oysters to Brown._--Open carefully, lift

them out of their liquor, and dip each one in yolk of egg, beaten up with

flour, pepper and salt, then brown them in a frying-pan, with a piece of

butter; take them out, pour the liquor into the pan, thicken with a piece

of butter rolled in flour, add a little catsup, minced lemon peel, and

parsley, let it boil up, put in the oysters, and stir them in it a few

minutes. Serve on toasted sippets. _Oysters to Fry._--Make a batter of

three or four eggs, a table-spoonful of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, and

the ¼ of one of cayenne, also a very little mace. Cover the oysters well

with this, and fry in boiling lard of a light brown; then grate toasted or

brown bread over them, and put before the fire for three minutes in a Dutch

oven. _Oysters or Cockles to Scallop._--Stew the oysters in their own

gravy. Have ready some bread-crumbs, put a layer into the scallop shells,

or dish, moisten with the oyster liquor, and put some little bits of

butter, then a layer of oysters, then of crumbs, till the shell is full; a

light sprinkling of salt, pepper, and cayenne; let bread-crumbs be at the

top, and lay on some little bits of butter. Brown before the fire in a

Dutch oven. _Cold fish_ may be re-cooked in this way for supper or

luncheon. _Oysters in Dean Swift's way._--Wash the shells {133}clean, and

put the oysters, unopened, into an earthen pot, with their hollow sides

downwards; set the pot, covered, in a kettle of water, and make that boil.

Do not let the water get into the shells; three or four minutes will cook

the oysters.

_Oysters to Keep._

Wash them clean, lay them, bottom downwards, into a tub, and cover them

with strong salt and water, in the proportion of a large handful of salt to

a pail of water. Some persons sprinkle them with flour or oatmeal; this

fattens them, but does not always improve the flavour.

See in the Index for _Curry of Fish_.

CHAPTER XIV.

MADE DISHES.

WHAT is generally understood in England to represent a "made dish" is

something too rich, or too highly seasoned, to be available for a family

dinner; but this is an error. Made dishes are not of necessity rich or

costly, but judgment is required in compounding them, and, by a little

practice, a cook will acquire this judgment, and then will be able to

convert the remains of joints, and much that would not appear to advantage

if plainly cooked, into nice palatable dishes. It is the proper application

of seasonings and flavouring ingredients, and not the superabundance of

them, which constitutes the excellence of "made dishes."--(_See in the

Index for Sauces._)

It has been directed, in making soup, that it must not boil fast. Made

dishes should never boil at all; _very_ gentle simmering, and the lid of

the stewpan must not be removed, {134}after the necessary scumming is over.

Time should be allowed for gradual cooking, and that over, the stewpan

ought to stand by the fire a few minutes, that the fat risen to the top be

taken off, before the dish is served. Indeed, ragouts are better made the

day before, because then the fat is more completely taken off. Shake the

stewpan if there be danger of burning, but if the lid be removed, the

savoury steams escape, and also much of the succulent qualities of the

meat.

Great delicacy is required in re-warming made dishes; they should be merely

heated through; and the safest mode is to place the stewpan in a vessel of

boiling water.

All made dishes require gravy, more or less good, and, in most houses,

this, by a little previous forethought, may always be ready; for if the

liquor in which meat has been boiled be saved, that seasoned, flavoured,

and thickened, the cook will always be provided with gravy for a ragout or

fricassee. (_See the Chapter on Soup, and also that on Gravy._)

The following is a good store gravy.--Boil a ham, or part of one, in water

to cover it, with four onions, a clove of garlic, six eschalots, a bay

leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, six cloves, and a few peppercorns. Keep the

pot covered, and let it simmer three hours. The liquor is strained, and

kept till poultry or meat of any kind is boiled; put the two together, and

boil down fast till reduced to three pints; when cold, it will be a jelly,

and suits any sort of ragout or hash.

Every cook ought to learn the art of _larding_, and also of _braising_, as

they are both used in made dishes.

_To Lard._

Have larding pins of various sizes. Cut strips of bacon, with a sharp

knife, put one into the pin, pierce the skin and a very little of the

flesh, and draw it through; the rows may be either near together or far

apart. The bacon is sometimes rolled in seasonings to suit the meat.

_To Blanch, either Meat or Vegetables._

This gives plumpness as well as whiteness. Put whatever it be into a

saucepan with cold water to cover, and let {135}it come to a boil; take it

out, plunge it into cold water, and let it remain till cold.

_To Braise._

This is, in fact, to stew in highly seasoned fat. Poultry must be trussed

as for boiling. Either lard, or stuff it, with good forcemeat, and provide

a thick-bottomed stew-pan, large enough to hold it. Line this with slices

of bacon, or fat beef, sliced onion, carrot, and turnip. Strew in a few

chopped herbs, salt, mace, black and Jamaica pepper, 2 bay leaves, and a

clove of garlic. (The seasoning to suit the meat.) Lay the meat in, and

cover it, first with the same quantity of herbs and spices as above, then

with thin slices of bacon, and, over all, white paper; wrap a cloth about

the lid of the stew-pan, and press it down, setting a weight on the top.

Place the stew-pan over a slow fire, and put embers on the lid. The cooking

process should be very slow. Braised joints are generally glazed.

_To Glaze._

When the meat is sufficiently cooked, take it out of the stew-pan and keep

it covered. Strain the gravy into a clean stew-pan, put it on the fire, and

let it boil quickly, uncovered, a few minutes; brush the meat over with

this, let it cool, and then brush again. What is not used may be kept in a

jar tied down, in a cool place.--_Fowls_, _Hams_, and _Tongues_, cooked by

plain boiling, are often glazed, to be eaten cold.--_Another way_ is, to

prepare a glaze beforehand, for _Hams_, _Tongues_, or _Fricandeaux_, thus:

break the bone of a knuckle of veal, cut the meat in pieces, the same with

shin of beef, add any poultry or game trimmings, and a few slices of bacon;

put them in a stew-pan over a quick fire, and let them _catch_, then put in

a little broth of cow-heels, or calf's-head, or feet. Let this stew to a

strong jelly; then strain, and put it by in jars. It may be flavoured to

suit the dish, at the time it is heated to be used. Glaze should be heated

in a vessel of boiling water, and when quite hot, brushed over the meat.

When _cream_ is used, it should be first heated (not boil), poured in by

degrees, and stirred, to prevent curdling. In making a stew, remember to

let it stand by the fire nearly ten minutes, not simmering, that {136}you

may remove the fat, before you put in the thickening. The _flour_ for this

should be of the finest kind, well dried. For _Ragouts_, you may brown it,

before the fire, or in the oven, and keep it ready prepared. It is

convenient to keep spices ready pounded; the quantity so prepared, as to be

proportioned to the usual consumption. _Kitchen pepper_ is: 1 oz. ginger, ½

oz. each, of nutmeg, black and Jamaica pepper, and cinnamon; pound or

grind, and keep them in small phials, corked, and labelled. For _white

sauces_, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, and grated lemon peel, in equal

proportion, may also be kept prepared; cayenne, added or not, as taste

requires; cayenne is used in preparations of brains, kidneys, or liver.

Made dishes are sometimes served on a _Purée_ of mushrooms or vegetables.

This is: boiled to a mash, just thicker than a sauce, and much used in

French cookery. To _Marinade_ is to _steep_ meat or fish, in a mixture of

wine, vinegar, herbs and spices.

_Onions_, small silver ones, are blanched, peeled and boiled in good broth

to serve as garnish to _bouilli_ and many other made dishes; or not

blanched, but stewed with butter, if to be brown. When very strong you may

parboil them with a turnip, for a stew, or forcemeat.

Some persons use _brandy_ in made dishes. _Wine_ in the proportion of a

wine-glassful to a pint of gravy; the quantity of brandy small in

proportion.

_Truffles_ and _Morells_ are a valuable addition to gravy and soup. Wash 1

oz. of each, boil them five minutes in water, then put them and the liquor

into the stew.

_Rump of Beef to Stew, Ragout, or Braise._

Cut out the bone, break it, and put it on in cold water, with any trimmings

you can cut off the rump; season with onion, sweet herbs, a carrot, and a

turnip. Scum, and let it simmer an hour; then strain it into the stew-pan

in which you stew the beef. Season the rump highly with kitchen pepper

(_which see_), and cayenne; skewer and bind it with tape. Lay skewers at

the bottom of the stew-pan, place the meat upon them, and pour the gravy

over. When it has simmered, rather more than an hour, turn it, put in a

carrot, turnip, and 3 onions, all sliced, an eschalot, and a glass of

flavouring vinegar. Keep the lid quite close, and {137}let it simmer 2

hours. Before you take it up, put in a little catsup, made mustard, and

some brown _roux_, or butter rolled in flour, to thicken the gravy.--_Or_:

having taken out the bone, lard the beef with fat bacon, and stew it for as

many hours, as the beef weighs pounds, in good gravy, or plain water, with

vegetables and seasoning, as in the other receipt, to which you may add a

head of celery. This dish should be nicely garnished; for which purpose

have carrots boiled, and cut into any shapes you like, also button onions,

Brussels sprouts, sprigs of cauliflower, &c., &c.; a border of mashed

potatoes round the meat, and carrot or green vegetables disposed upon it,

is also nice. Stewed tomatas also, or tomata sauce.

_Brisket of Beef to Stew._

Wash, then rub the beef with salt and vinegar, put it into a stew-pan to

just hold it, with water or broth; when it boils scum well, and let it stew

an hour; add carrots, turnips, and onions, cut up. Stew it 6 hours, take

out the bones, skim the gravy, add butter rolled in flour, a little catsup

and mixed spices. Put the meat into a dish; add made mustard, and more

catsup, to the gravy, pour some into the dish, and the rest in a tureen.

This may be enriched by walnut and mushroom catsup, truffles, morells, and

Port wine; also, carrots and turnips cut in shapes, boiled separately, and,

when the meat is dished, spread over and round it. Serve pickles.

_Beef, or Veal à la Mode._

The rump, the thick part of the flank, the mouse buttock, and the clod, are

dressed as follows; take from 8 to 10 lbs. beef, rub well with mixed spices

and salt, and dredge it with flour. Put some skewers at the bottom of a

stew-pan, and on them thin slices of bacon, 2 table-spoonsful of vinegar,

and a pint of good gravy or broth; then put in the beef, and more bacon.

Cover close, and let it stew slowly 3 hours; then turn the meat, and put in

cloves, black and Jamaica peppers, 2 bay leaves, and a few mushrooms, or

catsup, also a few button onions, browned in the frying-pan, and a head of

celery. Let it stew till the meat is tender, then take out the bay leaves,

put in a tea-cupful of Port {138}wine, and serve the meat with the gravy in

the dish. The gravy will have thickened to a glaze. Some cooks lard the

beef with thick slices of fat bacon, first dipped in vinegar, then in a

mixture ready prepared, of black pepper, allspice, a clove and parsley,

chives, thyme, savoury and knotted marjoram, all chopped very fine. Serve

_salad_ or _cucumber_. When veal is dressed this way (the breast is best),

flavour with oyster catsup, lemon peel, lemon pickle, mace, bay leaf, and

white wine. Garnish with pickled mushrooms, barberries, and lemon. This may

be cooked in the oven, in a baking dish with a close fitting lid.

_Beef to Collar._

The thin flank is best; the meat young, tender, not very fat. Rub it with

salt and a very little saltpetre, lay it across a deep dish one night, to

drain; rub in a mixture of brown sugar, salt, pounded pepper and allspice;

let it lie a week in the pickle; rub and turn it every day. Then take out

the bones, cut off the coarse and gristly parts, and the inner skin, dry

it, and spread over the inside some chopped herbs of whatever flavour you

choose, and mixed spices; roll it up as tight as you can, and bind with

tape; allow it four or five hours' slow, but constant boiling. When done

press it under a heavy weight, and put by to eat cold. It is sometimes

served hot.

_Boeuf Royale._

Bone the brisket, then scoop holes or cut slits in the meat, about an inch

asunder, fill one with small rolls of fat bacon, a second with chopped

parsley and sweet herbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, the third with

oyster cut small and powdered with a very little mace and nutmeg. When all

the apertures are stuffed, tie up the meat in a roll, put it into a baking

pan, pour over it a pint of sherry, quite hot, and six cloves, flour the

meat, cover close and set it in the oven for three hours; pour off the

gravy, and put it by to cool that you may skim off the fat; if it is not

already in a jelly, which it should be, boil it a little longer. Serve the

beef cold, and the jelly round it.

_Beef to Fricandeau._

Lard a piece of lean beef with strips of bacon, seasoned {139}with salt,

pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice; put it into a stew-pan, with a pint of

broth, a faggot of herbs, parsley, half a clove of garlic (if you like),

one eschalot, four cloves, pepper and salt. Let it stew till tender, take

it out and keep hot by the fire; strain the gravy, and boil it quickly,

till reduced to a glaze; and glaze the larded side of the beef. Serve on

stewed sorrel or cucumbers.

_Ox Cheek to Stew._

Having washed the cheek, tie it up round, and stew it in good gravy, or

water, with two bay leaves, a little garlic (if approved), two onions,

mushrooms, two turnips, two carrots, half a small cabbage, a bunch of sweet

herbs, six whole peppers, a little allspice, and a blade of mace. Scum

well, and when nearly done, take out the cheek, cut off the tapes, put it

into a fresh stew-pan; strain the liquor, skim off the fat, add lemon

juice, or vinegar, salt, cayenne, and catsup; whisk in some white of egg to

clear it, pour it through a strainer, to the cheek; and stew it till quite

tender.

_Ox Palates._

Parboil them till the upper skin will easily come off, and either divide,

or cut them in slices. Stew them slowly, in gravy thickened with browned

flour, with a little minced eschalot or onion, or a spoonful of onion

pickle, some catsup, and cayenne. If to be dressed high, add wine,

mushrooms, truffles, and morells to the sauce, and forcemeat balls in the

dish. Stewed cucumbers with this.--_Beef skirts_ the same way.--_Or_: boil

the palates in milk, and serve them in white sauce, flavoured with mushroom

powder and mace.

_To Pickle Ox Palates._

Clean and simmer them in water, scum well, then put as much mace, cloves,

pepper, salt, and sweet herbs, as will make them highly seasoned, and let

them boil gently 4 hours, or till quite tender; then take the skin off, cut

them into small pieces, and set them by, to cool. Cover them with a pickle

of half white wine, half vinegar, and spices as above: when this is cold,

strain it, and pour over the palates; add 2 bay leaves, if you like. Cover

very close.

{140}_Bouilli._

See this in direction for soup. But if to be dressed without soup, boil a

piece of the flank or brisket in water to cover it, with a sufficiency of

cut carrot and turnip to garnish, also a head of celery and 12 or 16 button

onions, browned; add a small table-spoonful of black and Jamaica peppers

tied in muslin; simmer it gently; and it requires a long time to cook it

enough. When it has boiled till tender, take out enough of the liquor to

make sauce; thicken it with brown _roux_, or flour rubbed in butter, add

catsup, cayenne, and made mustard. Garnish with the vegetables. Caper,

walnut, or tomata sauce. Pickled gherkins on the table.

_Tongue to Stew._

Cut off the root, and boil a salted tongue tender enough to peel. Stew it

in good gravy, with herbs, celery, soy, mushroom catsup, and cayenne. To be

very rich this is served with truffles, morells, and mushrooms. Lard it if

you like.--_Or_: put the tongue into a pan that will just hold it, strew

over a mixture of pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, and thin slices of

butter, put a coarse paste over, and bake it slowly, till you think a straw

will pass through it. To eat cold.

_Ox Tails to Stew._

Divide them at the joints. Scald or parboil, then brown them in a stew-pan,

with a little piece of butter, to keep from burning. Stew them slowly till

tender, in broth or water, enough to make sufficient gravy, seasoned with

salt, pepper, cayenne, chopped parsley, and a spoonful of made mustard.

Thicken the gravy with brown flour. If you approve, put into the stew three

onions (one brown), two carrots, and a bay leaf; or you may boil some cut

carrots and turnips, stew them in melted butter, and serve round the pieces

of meat in the gravy.

_Irish Stew._

This excellent dish is made of mutton or beef. Chops cut from a loin or

neck of mutton, trimmed of most of the {141}fat, and well seasoned with

salt, pepper, and spices. Parboil and skin as many potatoes as you think

enough, the proportion is 4 lbs. weight to 2 lbs. of meat. Peel 8 or 10

onions (for 4 lbs. meat), lay some sliced suet at the bottom of the

stew-pan, or a tea-cupful of melted butter, put in a layer of potatoes

sliced, a layer of chops, slice a layer of onions over, then potatoes and

mutton, and so on, the top layer potato; pour in half a pint of broth or

water. A shank or small piece of ham is an improvement. This should stew

very slowly; when the meat is tender the potatoes _may_ be boiled to a

mash, therefore have some boiled whole, by themselves. Beef steaks, and any

of the coarser parts, make a better stew than mutton.

_Rump Steaks to Stew._

The steaks should be of one thickness, about ¾ of an inch. Put about 1 oz.

of butter into a stew-pan, and 2 onions sliced, lay in the steaks, and let

them brown nicely on one side, then turn them to brown on the other side.

Boil a large tea-cupful of button onions three quarters of an hour, strain,

and pour the liquor over the steaks; if not enough to cover them, put a

little more water or broth, add salt, and 10 peppercorns. Stew them very

gently half an hour, then strain off as much of the liquor as you want for

sauce; put it into a saucepan, thicken with brown flour, or _roux_, add

catsup, a little cayenne, also a glass of red wine. Lay the steaks in a

dish, and pour the sauce over. The boiled onions may be laid over the

steaks. Mushrooms stewed with steaks are an improvement; 2 or 3 tomatas,

also, will help to enrich the stew, and about 4 pickled walnuts may be put

in. Harvey's and Reading sauces may be used to flavour, also chili or

eschalot vinegar. _With Cucumbers, or Potatoes._--Having your steak either

broiled or fried, pour over it the following:--3 large cucumbers and 3

onions, pared, sliced, browned in the frying-pan, and then stewed till

tender in ½ pint of gravy or water.--_Or_: cut the under side of the

sirloin into steaks, broil them three parts, rub a piece of butter over

each, and finish in the Dutch oven: serve them on potatoes, parboiled, cut

in slices and browned.--_Italian Steak_: have a large tender one, season it

with salt, pepper, {142}and onion, or eschalot: put it, without any water,

into an iron stew-pan, with a close-fitting lid, and set it by the side of

a strong fire, but do not let it burn: in 2 hours, or a little more, it

will be tender: serve, in its own gravy.

_Rolled Beef Steaks._

Prepare a forcemeat of the breast of a fowl, ½ lb. veal, ¼ lb. ham, fat and

lean, the kidney of a loin of veal, and a sweetbread, all cut very small,

also a few truffles and morells stewed, an eschalot, a little parsley,

thyme and grated lemon peel, the yolks of 2 eggs, ½ a nutmeg and ¼ pint of

cream, stir this mixture over the fire ten minutes, then spread it on very

tender steaks, roll them up and skewer them; fry them of a fine brown, then

take them from the fat, and stew them a quarter of an hour with a pint of

beef gravy, a spoonful of catsup, a wine-glassful of Port wine, and, if you

can, a few mushrooms. Cut the steaks in two, serve them the cut side

uppermost, and the gravy round. Garnish with lemon or pickled

mushrooms.--The forcemeat may be less rich, according to what you have.

A _fillet of beef_, namely, the under cut of the rump, makes very nice

steaks; cut in pieces ¼ inch in thickness, put them on the gridiron over a

sharp fire, season them whilst broiling with pepper and salt, and turn them

often, to keep the gravy in. Make a sauce of the yolks of 4 eggs, ½ lb.

butter, in slices, salt, pepper, the juice of ½ a lemon, and a little

chopped parsley; keep stirring it over the fire in every direction, till

rather thick, then take it off and keep stirring until the butter is

melted; if too thick, add milk or cream, and pour round the steak.

_Beef Olives._

Cut slices, of ½ an inch thick, about 5 long, and 3 inches broad. Beat, dip

them in egg, then in a seasoning of chopped herbs, bread-crumbs, salt,

mixed spices, and a little finely shred suet. Roll up and fasten them with

thread. These may be roasted in a Dutch oven, or stewed in clear gravy,

after being browned in the frying pan. Thicken the gravy, and add catsup

and walnut pickle; dish {143}the olives, skim, and pour the gravy hot over

them. They may be made of slices of cold roast beef, forcemeat spread over

them, and when neatly tied up, stewed in gravy, or boiling water, with

brown flour rubbed in butter, to thicken it.--_Or_: spread on the slices of

beef this mixture; mashed potatoes worked to a paste, with cream, the yolks

of 2 eggs, and 1 spoonful of flour, seasoned with salt and pepper; when

this is spread on the slices, strew over each a very little finely chopped

onion, parsley, and mushrooms; roll the olives up, fry in butter, or bake

in a Dutch oven.

_Beef Marrow Bones._

Fill up the opening with a piece of paste, tie a floured cloth over that,

and place them upright in the pot. Two hours' boiling. Serve on a napkin,

with slices of dry toast.

_Beef Heart._

Soak it and cut off the lobes. Put in a good stuffing, and roast, or bake

it, two hours. Serve gravy and currant jelly.--When cold, hash it like

hare.

_Hunter's Beef._

Take the bone out of a round, and rub in the following mixture, all in fine

powder: ¼ lb. saltpetre, ¼ lb. lump sugar, 1 oz. cloves, 2 nutmegs, and 3

handfuls of salt; this for 25 lbs.; rub and turn it every day, till you

think it salted enough to boil; take it out of the brine, wipe it with a

sponge, and bind up firmly with tape. If you choose, a stuffing may be put

into the place where the bone came out. Put the meat into an earthenware

pan just to hold it, with a pint of broth or thin melted butter; put some

pieces of butter or suet on the top of the beef, lay folds of brown paper

over the pan, or a coarse crust is still better, and bake it at least five

hours. This is generally eaten cold, but it may be eaten hot. The gravy

left in the pan is preserved to flavour soups and sauces. It may be made of

the _Ribs_: rub into a piece of 12 lbs., boned, 4 oz. bay salt, 3 oz.

saltpetre, ½ lb. coarse brown sugar, 2 lbs. salt, and a teacupful of

juniper berries bruised: rub and turn every day for three weeks, then bake

it, covered with a coarse paste.

{144}_Hamburgh Beef._

Rub a rump or round of beef well with brown sugar, and let it lie five

days; turn it each day. Sponge, and rub into it a mixture of 4 oz. common

salt, 4 oz. bay salt, and 2 oz. saltpetre, well beaten, and spices to your

taste. Rub and turn it every other day, for a fortnight: then roll up, tie

it, put it in a cloth, then under a heavy weight; that done, hang for a

week in a wood-smoke chimney. Cut pieces to boil as it is wanted, and when

boiled enough, press the meat again under a weight, to eat cold.

_Hung Beef._

Rub the best end of the ribs well with lump sugar, or treacle, and

saltpetre; on the third day rub with common salt and saltpetre; rub and

turn it every day for a week; let it lie a fortnight, turning it every

other day, pouring the brine over. Take it out, wipe, and dust bran over,

then hang it to dry (not smoke) six or eight weeks.

_Boeuf à la Flamande._

Lard a piece of ribs of beef of 8 lbs. weight, and braise it over a slow

fire, a slice of bacon under and over it; then add a pint of fresh

mushrooms, 2 lbs. truffles, 2 doz. forcemeat balls, made with plenty of

eggs, and ½ pint Madeira. Carrots and turnips, cut small, boiled separately

in broth till quite tender, also silver onions as directed for made dishes;

all or any of these may be laid over the beef.

_Beef to Press._

Bone the brisket, flank, or ribs, and rub it with a mixture of salt, sugar,

and spices; let it be a week, then boil till tender, and press it under a

heavy weight till cold.

_Beef to Hash, or Mince._

Cut thin slices of the underdone part, leaving aside the gristly parts and

burnt outside to make gravy, with the bones; put these on in a quart of

water, pepper, salt, two onions, a little allspice, cayenne, sweet herbs,

and parsley: when the water has wasted one half, thicken with flour,

{145}mixing it in by degrees, a little at a time; when this has boiled up,

skim off the fat, set it by the side of the fire to settle, strain it into

another saucepan, and put it again on the fire; add mushroom catsup,

pickle, or whatever ingredient you choose; when hot, put in the slices of

meat, and all the gravy left of the joint; let the meat slowly warm

through, but not _boil_, or it will become hard; a very few minutes will be

sufficient. Toasted sippets round the dish. You may add any flavouring

sauce you choose; eschalot vinegar is good, but use no onion. A

table-spoonful of curry paste makes it a good curry.

_Beef Cecils._

Mince cold meat very finely, and mix it with bread-crumbs, chopped onion,

parsley, pepper, and salt. Put it into a stew-pan with a very little melted

butter, and walnut pickle, stir it over the fire a few minutes, pour it in

a dish, and when cool, put enough flour to make it into balls, the shape

and size of large eggs; brush with egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and

brown before the fire. Pour good gravy over them. The minced beef may be

warmed in scallop shells, between layers of mashed potatoes, or only a

layer spread thinly over the top, and little bits of butter stuck on, and

then browned before the fire: this may be moistened with any gravy you

have, or walnut pickle.--_Or_: you may serve the mince on toasted bread, or

under poached eggs. Chopped _onions_, previously parboiled, make this more

relishing to some persons' tastes.

_Beef Collops._

Cut thin slices of very tender beef, divide them in pieces three inches

long, beat them with the blade of a knife, and flour them; fry them in

butter three minutes, then stew them in a pint of water or gravy; if water

add salt and pepper, half a pickled walnut, 3 small gherkins, or a

table-spoonful of capers, a lump of butter and flour to thicken it. Take

care it do not boil, but stew gently. The pickles all cut small.--_Or_: do

not stew, but fry them in butter with 1 onion in slices, till cooked, about

ten minutes; then put them in a hot dish, keep that covered, while you boil

{146}up in the pan a table-spoonful of boiling water, a tea-spoonful of

lemon pickle, of oyster pickle, walnut catsup, soy and made mustard; pour

all hot over the collops.

_Beef en Miroton._

Cut thin slices of cold boiled (not salted), or roast beef, or tongue. Put

6 onions chopped into a saucepan with ¼ lb. of butter, turn it round

frequently, and in a few minutes add a little flour mixed in a tea-cup of

broth, and a wine-glass of white wine; let it be on the fire until the

onions are cooked; then put in the meat with salt, pepper, and a spoonful

of vinegar. After one boil, stir in a spoonful of made mustard, and serve

it; the edge of each slice lying a little over the other round the dish.

_Bubble and Squeak._

Cold boiled beef is best, but roast meat is very good. Cut it in thin

slices, pepper well and fry them in butter, then keep them hot, while you

fry some boiled cabbage, chopped; when done, put this high in the middle of

the dish, and lay the slices of meat round: if you like, an equal portion

of cold potatoes, chopped and fried with the cabbage. Serve thick melted

butter, with pickled cucumbers, or onion or capers, and a little made

mustard. _Veal_ may be cooked this way, with spinach instead of

cabbage.--_Or_: what is more delicate, cut bits of cold veal without any

skin, about an inch long, and warm them in the frying pan with the white

part of a boiled cauliflower in little bits, ½ pint of cream, and a light

sprinkling of salt and cayenne.

_Beef to Pot._

Lean meat is best. Salt, and let it lie two days. Drain, season with

pepper, and spices; bake it in a slow oven. When done, drain it from the

gravy, and set it before the fire, to draw the moisture from it. Tear in

pieces, and beat it up well in a mortar, with mixed spices, and enough

oiled butter to make it the proper consistence. Flavour with mushroom

powder, anchovy or minced eschalot. Put it into potting-cans, and pour

clarified butter {147}over, which may afterwards be used for various

purposes. _Potted Beef_ is generally made of meat which has been used to

make clear gravy, _or_ the remains of a joint.

_Mock Hare._

Put the inside of a sirloin of beef into an earthen pan, cover it with Port

wine, and let it lie 24 hours: then spread over it a forcemeat of veal,

suet, and anchovies, chopped, also grated bread, mace, pepper, and mushroom

powder, lemon peel, lemon thyme, eschalot, and the yolks of two eggs: roll

up the beef tight, and roast it, by dangling before the fire: baste with

the wine in which it was soaked, till half done, then with cream, or milk

and butter, and froth it, till well coated, like hare. Serve a rich gravy,

flavoured with walnut or mushroom catsup, and a table-spoonful of eschalot

vinegar. Sweet sauce.--_Or_: a cold uncut inside of a roasted sirloin may

be re-warmed whole, in gravy flavoured with eschalot vinegar, walnut or

mushroom catsup, and Port wine.

_Fillet of Veal to Stew._

Stuff it with a good forcemeat, roll tightly, and skewer it. Lay skewers at

the bottom of a stew-pan, place the meat on them, put in a quart of broth,

or soft water, lay some bits of butter on the top of the fillet, cover the

stew-pan close, after taking off all the scum, and let it simmer slowly

till the meat is tender; take it out, strain the sauce, thicken it, and put

it on the fire to re-warm; season with white pepper, mace, nutmeg, a glass

of white wine, and the juice of a lemon, pour it hot over the meat; lay

slices of lemon, forcemeat balls, pickled mushrooms, or fresh ones stewed,

over the meat, and round the dish. Serve white sauce.--This dish is made

more savoury if you put mushrooms, and ham or tongue, in the forcemeat.

Also, you make it richer by putting the best part of a boiled tongue,

whole, where you take the bone out, fill up the cavities round the fillet

with forcemeat; tie it up in a good shape, and either stew or bake it, in

gravy, as above; or roast it, basting well. This may be served with a wall

of mashed potatoes round, and that ornamented with pieces of tongue and

bacon, cut in dice, alternately, with sprigs of green {148}vegetable; or

pieces of stewed cucumber; or Jerusalem artichokes cooked in white sauce;

or garnish with lumps of young green peas.

_Neck of Veal to Braise._

Lard the best end with bacon rolled in a mixture of parsley, salt, pepper,

and nutmeg: put it into a stew-pan with the scrag end, a slice of lean ham,

1 onion, 2 carrots, and 2 heads of celery, nearly cover with water, and

stew it till tender, about two hours. Strain off the liquor, and put the

larded veal (the upper side downwards) into another stew-pan, in which you

have browned a piece of butter, then set it over the fire, till the meat is

sufficiently coloured; keep it hot in a dish whilst you boil up quickly a

little of the strained liquor; skim it, put in a glass of Madeira, some

orange or lemon juice, and pour it hot over the veal. Garnish with slices

of lemon.--This joint may be covered with a veal caul and roasted; ten

minutes before it is done, uncover it to brown. Serve it on sorrel sauce,

celery, or asparagus tops: or with mushrooms fricasseed, or in sauce.

_Breast of Veal to Stew, Ragout, or Collar._

An elegant dish for the second course. Put on the scrag and any bones of

veal you have, to make gravy; put a well seasoned forcemeat into the thin

part, sew it in; egg the top of the breast, brown it before the fire, and

let it stew in the strained gravy an hour; when done, take it out and keep

it hot over boiling water, while you thicken the sauce, and put to it 50

oysters cut up, a few mushrooms chopped, lemon juice, white pepper and

mace; or catsup and anchovy sauce may be used to flavour it; also cream,

white wine, truffles, and morells, at discretion. Pour the sauce hot over

the meat, and garnish with slices of lemon and forcemeat balls, also

pickled mushrooms.--A _Scrag_ of veal is very good, stewed in thin broth or

water, till very tender; make a sauce of celery, boiled in two waters to

make it white, then put into very thick melted butter, stir in a

coffee-cupful of cream, shake it two minutes over the fire, and pour it

over the veal. _Or_ tomata or onion sauce. _To Ragout_--Make a little gravy

of the scrag and bones of {149}the breast, cut the meat into neat pieces,

rather long than broad, and brown them in fresh butter. Drain off the fat,

and stew them in the gravy, with a bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of lemon

peel, a few cloves, a blade of mace, two onions, white pepper, salt, and a

little allspice. Simmer slowly, keeping it covered close. When done, take

out the meat, skim off the fat, strain and thicken the gravy, add the juice

of a lemon and a glass of white wine, and pour it hot over the veal,

holding back the sediment. _Breast_ and _neck of veal_ may be stewed in

water, or weak broth, without forcemeat. _Veal_ is sometimes stewed with

green peas, chopped lettuce, and young onions.--_Lamb_ may be dressed this

way, and served with cucumber sauce.--_Rabbit_ the same, with white onion

sauce. _To Collar_--Bone it, take off the skin, and beat the meat with a

rolling pin; season it with pepper, salt, pounded mace, and a mixture of

herbs, chopped very fine, then lay on thick slices of ham or 2 calves'

tongues, boiled and skinned; bind it up in a cloth, and fasten it well with

tape. Simmer it in enough water to cover it, over a slow fire, till quite

tender, which will be about three hours and a half; then put it under a

weight till cold. You may put in, in different parts, pigs' and calves'

feet boiled and taken from the bones; also yolk of hard-boiled egg, grated

ham, chopped parsley, and slices of beet root. _Collared Veal to be eaten

Hot_--Spread a forcemeat over the breast (boned), then roll, bind it up

tight, and stew it in water or weak broth. Serve it in good veal gravy, or

on fricasseed mushrooms, and artichoke bottoms. This is sometimes roasted.

_Veal Olives or Veal Rolls._

Cut long thin slices and beat them, lay on each one a very thin slice of

bacon, and then a layer of highly seasoned forcemeat, in which there is a

little eschalot. Roll them tight the size of two fingers 3 inches long;

fasten them with a skewer, rub egg over, and either fry them of a light

brown, or stew them, slowly, in gravy. Add a wine-glassful of white wine,

and a little lemon juice.--If you do not choose the bacon, put only

forcemeat strongly flavoured with ham; or grate ham thickly over the

slices. Garnish with fried balls and pickled mushrooms.

{150}_Scotch Collops._

Cut small slices of the fillet, flour and brown them in fresh butter in the

frying-pan, and simmer them very gently in a little weak broth or boiling

water; when nearly done, add the juice of a lemon, a spoonful of catsup, a

little mace, pepper and salt; take out the collops, keep them hot in the

dish; thicken the sauce with browned flour, and pour it hot over the

collops; garnish with curled slices of bacon.

_Veal en Fricandeau._

The fat fleshy side of the knuckle, a little thin slice from the fillet, or

the lean part of the neck boned. Take off the skin, beat the meat flat, and

stuff with forcemeat; lard it, or not, as you like. Lay some slices of

bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, the veal on them, and slices of bacon on

the top; put in 1½ pint of broth, or water, the bones of the meat, or 2

shanks of mutton; a bunch of herbs, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, 3 onions sliced, a

blade of mace, 2 bay leaves, some white pepper, and lastly, more slices of

bacon. Let this stew slowly, after being scummed, two hours, keeping the

stew-pan closely covered, except when you baste the upper side of the

fricandeau. The meat ought to be cooked to eat with a spoon. Take it out,

when done, and keep it hot while you take all the bones out of the gravy,

skim off the fat, and let it boil quickly till it thickens, and becomes a

glaze; pour it over the meat. Mushrooms, morells and truffles may be added.

Sorrel or tomata sauce.--_Another_: put the veal into a stew-pan, the

larded side uppermost, add 2 tumblers of water, 2 carrots and onions in

slices, 2 cloves, pepper and salt to taste, and a bunch of parsley: boil

slowly three hours and a half; then brown the veal with a salamander;

served with stewed mushrooms.

_Knuckle of Veal to Ragout, or with Rice._

Break the bone and put it into a stew-pan with water to make a quart of

broth, with the skin, gristles, and trimmings of the meat, a bunch of

parsley, a head of celery, one onion, one turnip, one carrot, and a small

bunch of lemon {151}thyme; this being ready, cut the meat off the knuckle,

the cross way of the grain, in slices smaller than cutlets, season with

salt and kitchen pepper, dredge with flour, and brown them in another

stew-pan. Then strain the broth, pour it over them, and stew it _very_

slowly half an hour; thicken the gravy with white _roux_, and add the juice

of half a lemon. _With Rice_--Cut off steaks for cutlets, or a pie, so as

to leave no more meat on the bone than will be eaten hot. Break and wash

the shank bone; put it into a stew-pan, with two quarts of water, salt, an

onion, a blade of mace, and a bunch of parsley. When it boils, scum well,

put in ¼ lb. of well-washed rice, and stew it at least two hours. Put the

meat in a deep dish, and lay the drained rice round. Serve bacon and

greens.

_Granadin of Veal._

Line a dish, or shape, with veal caul, letting it hang over the sides of

the dish; put in, first a layer of thin slices of bacon, then a layer of

forcemeat, made of herbs, suet, and crumbs of bread, then a layer of thin

slices of veal, well seasoned, and so on till the dish is filled; turn the

caul over the whole, tie a paper over the dish, and bake it. Mushrooms may

be added. When done, turn it out of the dish, and serve with a clear brown

gravy.

_Veal à la Daube._

Cut off the chump, and take out the edge-bone of a loin of veal; raise the

skin and put in a forcemeat; bind the loin up with tape, cover with slices

of bacon, and put it into a stew-pan, with all the bones and trimmings, one

or two shanks of mutton, and just cover with water, or broth; a bunch of

sweet herbs, two anchovies, some white pepper, and a blade of mace. Put a

cloth over the stew-pan, and fit the lid tight, with a weight on the top.

Simmer it slowly two hours, but shake the pan occasionally. The gravy will

have become a strong glaze; take out the veal, the bacon, and herbs; glaze

the veal, and serve it with tomata or mushroom sauce, or stewed mushrooms.

_Veal to Haricot._

Shorten the bones of the best end of the neck; you may {152}cut it in

chops, or dress it whole. Stew it in good brown gravy, and when nearly

done, add a pint of green peas, a large cucumber pared and sliced, a

blanched lettuce quartered, pepper, salt, a very little cayenne, and

boiling water, or broth, to cover the stew. Simmer it till the vegetables

are done, put the meat in a hash dish, and pour the stew over. Forcemeat

balls to garnish, if you choose.

_Veal Cutlets à la Maintenon._

_See Mutton Steaks à la Maintenon_; or cook them without paper as follows:

first flatten, and then season them with mixed spices, dipped in egg first,

then in bread-crumbs mixed with powdered sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, and

lemon peel. Broil them over a quick, clear fire, and serve directly they

are done, with good gravy well flavoured with different sauces; or catsup

in melted butter, or mushroom sauce. Garnish with lemon and curled parsley.

They may be dressed in the Dutch oven, moistened, from time to time, with

melted butter. The fat should be first pared off pretty closely. Serve

pickles.

_Calf's Heart._

Stuff it with a rich forcemeat, put the caul, or a well buttered paper

over, and roast it an hour. Pour a sauce of melted butter and catsup over

it.--_Or_: stuff, and brown it in a stew-pan, with a little butter, or a

slice of bacon under it; put in enough broth or water to make a very little

gravy, and let it simmer gently till done; take out the bacon, simmer and

thicken the gravy, and pour it over the heart. Sweet sauce, or currant

jelly.--_Sheep's_ hearts are very nice, in the same way; a wine-glassful of

catsup, or of Port wine, in the gravy.

_Calf's Pluck._

Parboil half the liver and lights, and mince them. Stuff the heart with

forcemeat, cover with the caul, or a buttered paper, or, instead of either,

lay some slices of bacon on, and bake it. Simmer the mince of the liver in

gravy or broth, add salt, pepper, chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon and

catsup: fry the rest of the liver in slices, with parsley. {153}When done,

put the mince in a dish, the heart in the middle, the slices round. Garnish

with fried parsley, or toasted sippets.--_Or_: cut the liver into oblong

slices an inch thick, turn these round, and fasten with thread, or form

them into any shape you like. Chop onions very fine, also mushrooms and

parsley, fry these in butter, pepper and salt; then dredge flour over the

pieces of liver, and put them into the frying-pan; when done enough, lay

them in a dish, pepper slightly and keep them hot, whilst you pour enough

broth or boiling water into the frying-pan to moisten the herbs; stew this

a few minutes, and pour it over the liver. A nice supper or breakfast

dish.--_Lamb's pluck_ the same way.--_Calf's liver_ is very good stewed.

This is made rich, according to the herbs, spices, and sauces used. Chili

vinegar is good.

_Veal Sweetbreads._

Parboil a very little, then divide and stew them in veal broth, or milk and

water. When done, season the sauce with salt and white pepper, and thicken

with flour; add a little hot cream, and pour it over the

sweetbreads.--_Or_: when parboiled, egg the sweetbreads, dip them in a

seasoned mixture of bread-crumbs, and chopped herbs; roast them gently in a

Dutch oven, and pour over a sauce of melted butter and catsup.--_Or_: do

not parboil, but brown them, in a stew-pan, with a piece of butter, then

pour over just enough good gravy to cover them; let them simmer gently,

till done, add salt, pepper, allspice and mushroom catsup; take out the

sweetbreads, thicken the sauce with browned flour, and strain it over them.

Mushroom sauce and melted butter are served with sweetbreads.--_Or_:

par-roast before the fire, cut them in thin slices, then baste with thin

melted butter, strew bread-crumbs over, and finish by broiling before the

fire.--Truffles and morells may be added to enrich the gravy.

_Calf's Tails._

Clean and parboil the tails, brown them in butter, then drain and stew them

in good broth, with a bunch of parsley, a few onions, and a bay leaf. Green

peas, sliced {154}cucumber, or lettuce, may be added and served altogether,

when done, and the fat skimmed off.

_Calf's Head._

Wash and soak it in warm water, take out the brains, and the black part of

the eyes. Boil it in a large fish-kettle, with plenty of water and some

salt. Scum well, and let it simmer gently nearly two hours. Lift it out,

carefully sponge it to take off any scum that may have adhered, take out

the tongue, and slightly score the head, in diamonds; brush it with egg,

and sprinkle it with a mixture of bread-crumbs, herbs, pepper, salt and

spices; strew some little bits of butter over, and put it in the Dutch oven

to brown. Wash and parboil the brains; skin, and chop them with parsley and

sage (parboiled); add pepper and salt, with melted butter, to a little more

than moisten it, add the juice of a lemon, and a small quantity of cayenne;

turn this a few minutes over the fire: skin the tongue, place it in the

middle of a small dish, the brains round it; garnish with very small sprigs

of curled parsley, and slices of lemon; serve the head in another dish,

garnish the same. Serve melted butter and parsley. If you have boiled the

whole head, half may be dressed as above, and the other half as

follows:--cut the meat into neat pieces along with the tongue, and re-warm

it in a little good broth, well seasoned with spices and lemon peel; when

it is done, put in the juice of a lemon, pour it into your dish, lay the

half head on it, garnish with brain cakes and lemon.--_Calf's Head to

Stew_--Prepare it as in the last receipt to boil; take out the bones, put

in a delicate forcemeat, tie it up carefully, and stew it in veal broth or

water; season well with mace, mushroom powder and a very little cayenne.

Stew very slowly, and when done, serve it with fried forcemeat balls, and a

fricassee of mushrooms. It may be enriched to almost any degree, by

flavouring sauces, truffles and morells, also oysters. _A Collared Calf's

Head_ in the same way: when boned season as in the last receipt; put

parsley in a thick layer, then thick slices of ham or the tongue, roll it

up, tie as firmly as you can in a cloth and boil it, and put it under a

weight till cold.

{155}_Brain Cakes._

Take off all the fibres and skins which hang about the brains and scald

them; beat them in a bason, with the yolks of two eggs (or more, according

to the quantity of brains), one spoonful of flour, the same of

bread-crumbs, a little lemon peel grated, and two tea-spoonsful of chopped

parsley; add pepper, salt, nutmeg, and what spices you like; beat well

together, with enough melted butter to make a batter; then drop it, in

small cakes, into boiling lard, and fry of a light brown. Calf's or lamb's

brains, in this way, for garnishing, or a small side dish. _Brains à la

Maître d'Hotel_: Skin the brains and soak them in several waters, then boil

them in salt and water, with a little piece of butter, and a table-spoonful

of vinegar. Fry in butter, some thin slices of bread, in the shape of

scollop shells. Lay these in a dish, the brains divided in two on them, and

pour over a Maître d'Hotel sauce.

_Calf's Head to Fricassee, and to Hash._

First parboil, then cut the meat into small pieces, and stew it, in a very

little of the liquor in which it was boiled, or in rich white gravy,

seasoned with white pepper, salt, onion and sweet herbs. Simmer gently,

and, when nearly done, thicken with butter, rolled in flour, and just

before you dish it, add a tea-cupful of hot cream, or the yolks of two eggs

beaten; let it simmer, but not boil. Garnish with brain cakes, or curled

slices of bacon.--_To Hash_: Calf's head cold, makes an excellent hash, and

may be enriched to any degree, by adding to the following plain hash, some

highly flavouring ingredients, such as sweetbreads, truffles, artichoke

bottoms, button mushrooms, forcemeat and egg balls.--Cut the head and the

tongue into slices. Take rather more than a quart of the liquor in which it

was boiled, two shanks of mutton, or bones or trimmings of veal, and of the

head; a bunch of sweet herbs, parsley, one large onion, a piece of lemon

peel and some white pepper; boil this slowly, so that it may not waste too

much, till it is well flavoured gravy, then thicken it with butter rubbed

in flour, and strain it into a clean saucepan, add pounded mace, a large

spoonful of oyster catsup or lemon pickle, sherry, and {156}any sauce you

like; put in the slices of meat, and warm them by gently simmering. Garnish

with forcemeat balls, curled slices of bacon, or fried bread, in sippets,

or brain cakes.

_Mock Turtle._

Soak a large head, with the skin on, in hot water, then parboil it, in

sufficient water to cover it, with a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions and a

carrot; and after it has boiled to throw up the scum, simmer it gently half

an hour. Then take the head out and let it get nearly cold before you cut

it up. Take out the black parts of the eyes, and cut the other part into

thin round slices, the gristly parts of the head into strips, and the

peeled tongue into dice or square bits. Put the bones and trimmings of the

head back into the stew-pan, and keep it simmering by the fire. Fry some

minced eschalot or onion, in plenty of butter dredged with browned flour;

then put it into a clean stew-pan, with all the cut meat, toss it over the

fire a few minutes, then strain into it, a sufficient quantity of the stock

to make the dish a stew-soup; season with pounded mace, pepper, salt, and a

pint of Madeira; simmer it very slowly, till the meat is done, add a large

spoonful of catsup or soy, a little chopped basil, tarragon and parsley. It

must be skimmed before it is served; add the juice of a lemon, and pour it

into a tureen. Forcemeat balls may be used as garnish: this is made richer

by a cow heel, and also, by sweetbreads parboiled, or oysters and anchovies

being added.

_Veal to Mince._

Cold veal is generally used to mince, but undressed meat is the most

savoury. Mince it finely, only the white part, and heat it in a little

broth, or water (a piece of butter rolled in flour, if the latter), salt,

white pepper, pounded mace, and plenty of finely chopped or grated lemon

peel; when warm, put to it a small coffee-cupful of hot cream, and serve

with sippets round the dish. This preparation does for _patties_ or

_cecils_ or _scallops_, the same as directed for _beef_.--You may mix with

the mince some stewed mushrooms. _Veal_ may be _hashed_ the same as beef;

adding to the gravy, mace, nutmeg, and lemon peel.

{157}_Veal to Pot._

Season a thick slice of an undressed fillet, with mace, peppercorns and 3

cloves, bake or stew nearly four hours, pound it quite small in a mortar,

with salt, and butter sufficient, just melted. Put it in pots, and cover

with clarified butter. A portion of ham is an improvement.

_Veal Cake._

Boil 8 eggs hard, cut two in half, the others in rings, put some of the

latter and the halves round the bottom of a deep dish or shallow mould, and

between each, a light sprig of parsley to make a layer; then a layer of

very thin small pieces of cold veal, ham or tongue, and sprigs of parsley

between, and more egg, moisten as you go on with a very good savoury jelly,

flavoured with cayenne.--_Or_: make a very pretty dish; having boiled two

calf's feet or a cow heel for jelly, or other purpose, put some nice little

bits of the meat at the bottom of a deep round pudding mould, and little

bits of ham or tongue and sprigs of parsley between, season to taste, then

another layer, till full, moisten as you go on with some of the liquor. Set

in a rather cool oven just to stiffen, then in a cool place, and turn it

out of the shape. Bunches of barberries to garnish it.

_Mutton to Haricot._

Cut the neck or loin, into chops, and trim off all the fat and bones. Have

3 pints of good broth, in which a turnip, carrot, bunch of parsley and 3

onions have been boiled. Season the chops well with kitchen pepper, and

flour them; then brown them in the frying-pan, with a piece of butter, put

them in a stew-pan, and pour the strained broth over. Let them stew very

slowly half an hour, then put in 2 large carrots, cut in slices, and

notched on the edges, 10 or 12 pieces of turnip, cut in fanciful shapes, 6

button onions, previously half roasted in the frying-pan, or parboiled,

also a head of celery, cut up. When the chops are tender, skim the gravy,

thicken it with browned flour; add pepper and salt, and a table-spoonful of

walnut catsup, the same of camp sauce, of universal sauce, {158}of chili or

eschalot vinegar, and a wine-glassful of either Port or white wine. Lay the

chops in a hash dish, the vegetables on them, and pour the gravy hot over.

_Cucumbers_ sliced, _endive_ parboiled and cut up, or _haricots_ parboiled,

are good in this. _Veal cutlets_, _beef steaks_, and _lamb chops_, in the

same way. Young lettuces and celery are more suitable to veal than turnip

and carrot. Garnish with pickled mushrooms.

_Leg of Mutton with Carrots._

Lard the leg and put it in a stew-pan just large enough to hold it, with a

piece of butter. Set it over the fire five or ten minutes, and turn it to

every side; take it out, and mix in the saucepan, with the butter, a

spoonful of flour, and two tea-cupsful of broth or boiling water; let this

simmer, turning the saucepan often; put in the mutton, and fill up with

broth or boiling water; add salt and pepper, and a small bunch of herbs.

Boil it slowly two hours, then put in a large plate of carrots cut in small

pieces, and browned in another saucepan. Boil the mutton another hour after

the carrots are added, and then serve it. Any lean joint of mutton may be

cooked in this way.

_Loin of Mutton to Roll or to Stew._

Keep it till quite tender, take out the bones, and put them on in water to

cover them, with an onion and herbs, to make a good gravy. Season the meat

highly with black and Jamaica pepper, mace, nutmeg and cloves, and let it

lie all night. Flatten the meat with a rolling-pin, and cover it with a

forcemeat, as directed for roast hare; roll it up and bind with tape; bake

it in a slow oven, or half roast it before the fire, and baste from time to

time with the made gravy. Let it get cold, skim off the fat which will have

settled on it, dredge it with flour, then finish the cooking by stewing it

in the gravy with which you basted, which must be carefully preserved,

after the roasting or baking be over. When cooked enough, put to the gravy

an anchovy pounded, a wine-glass of catsup, one of Port wine, and a

table-spoonful of lemon pickle. Mushrooms are an improvement.--_The Loin_

may be boned, larded, stuffed with {159}forcemeat, then rolled, and stewed

in white stock, with plenty of delicate vegetables, and served with spinach

round it, and a sharp sauce.

_Shoulder of Mutton._

The same as the loin; or stuffed with oysters solely (bearded); the meat

rolled up, bound with tape, and stewed in broth, with a few peppercorns, a

head of celery, and one or two onions. When done, take off the tape, and

pour oyster sauce over.--_Or_: half roast a well-kept shoulder of mutton,

let it get nearly cold, then score it on both sides, put it in a Dutch

oven, before the fire, with a clean dish under to catch the gravy, and let

it continue to roast. Bone and chop four anchovies, melt them in the

basting ladle, add pepper and salt, then mix it into ½ pint of hot gravy, ¼

pint of Port wine, a spoonful of mushroom, the same of walnut catsup, and ½

a spoonful of lemon pickle; baste the meat with this as it roasts; when

done, lay it on a clean hot dish, skim the dropped gravy, heat it, if

necessary, and pour over the mutton.--_Or_: bone the shoulder, and steep it

in wine, vinegar, herbs, and spices; have ready a stuffing, in which there

are either oysters or mushrooms, put it in, cover the shoulder with a veal

caul, and braise it. Serve with venison gravy, and sauce. Some like the

flavour of garlic in this.

_Breast of Mutton to Grill._

Cut off all fat which will not be eaten with the lean, score that in

diamonds, and season with pepper and salt. Brush it with egg, and strew a

mixture of bread-crumbs and chopped parsley over. Either roast or broil it

in a Dutch oven, baste well with butter, strewing more crumbs and parsley

over. Serve with chopped walnut or capers in butter.

_Neck of Mutton to Stew._

Cut off some of the fat, and the meat into chops, put it into a stew-pan

with water or broth to cover it, pepper, salt, an onion, and what herbs you

like, cover close, and let it stew very gently; when half the water is

wasted, put it by the side to let the fat rise, take that off, put in ½

pint claret, {160}12 oysters, and let it stew till quite tender; take out

the herbs, thicken the gravy, and add the juice of ½ a lemon, and what

catsup you like.

_To Dress Kidneys._

Skin and split mutton kidneys, rub with salt and pepper, and pin them out

with small wire skewers, to keep them open. Dip in melted butter, then lay

them on the gridiron, the inside downwards first, that when you turn them

the gravy may be saved. Put the kidneys in a very hot dish, and pour melted

butter into each one.--_Or_: cut a fresh kidney into slices or mouthfuls;

soak in warm water and well dry them, dust them with flour, and then brown

with butter in the frying-pan: put them in a stew-pan with the white of 3

young onions chopped, salt, pepper, parsley, a table-spoonful of eschalot

vinegar, and then let them simmer till the kidney is quite done. Mushroom

or walnut catsup may be used. Serve mustard with this.--_Or_: mince the

kidney and season well with salt, pepper, and cayenne; fry this, and

moisten it with gravy or boiling water, or use what catsup or flavouring

vinegar you like. Serve on a hot dish for breakfast.--_Or_: put the mince

into a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs and an onion tied up in muslin,

as soon as it is just browned cover with boiling water and let it simmer 3

hours, then take out the herbs, and sprinkle over the mince a

table-spoonful of sweet herbs in powder.

_Mutton or Lamb Chops and Collops._

_Cutlets_ for a supper or breakfast dish may be cut from a rather underdone

leg: put a good sized piece of butter in the frying-pan, when hot lay the

slices of meat in, and turn them often till done, then take them out and

keep them hot, while you make a little gravy in the pan, of parsley, other

herbs if you like, and a very little broth or boiling water; any flavouring

sauce you have, and cayenne. The gravy should be thick of herbs; dish the

cutlets in the centre, and the herbs round.--_Or_: pare and slice some

cucumbers, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, pour a little vinegar over,

and let them lie an hour; then stew them with the collops in broth, enough

to make sufficient gravy; season {161}with catsup and what flavouring

ingredient you prefer, skim the gravy when the meat is done, and serve in a

hash dish.--_Or_: chop the leaves of 6 sprigs of parsley with 2 eschalots,

very fine, season with salt and cayenne, and mix all well together with a

table-spoonful of salad oil, cover the cutlets on both sides with this,

then shake grated bread-crumbs over, and fry them in fresh butter.

_Cutlets à la Maintenon._

Lightly season and lay them in a pan with 3 table-spoonsful of oil; fry

over a moderate fire till 3 parts cooked, then take them out, and fry 2

table-spoonsful of chopped onions of a light brown, pour off the oil and

put in a pint of good brown sauce, 3 table-spoonsful of tomata sauce, a

tea-cupful of chopped parsley, a little sugar, nutmeg, pepper and salt,

reduce it till rather thick, then put in the cutlets for about 5 minutes:

take them out, let them be cold in the sauce, and fold each one (the gravy

about it), in white paper (oiled), and broil them 10 minutes over a

moderate fire. Serve in the papers.

Sauces for cutlets may be made of oysters, mushrooms, tomatas, anchovies,

&c., &c., by stewing them in gravy, suitably seasoned; always add some lump

sugar. Serve with Jerusalem artichokes, cooked in white sauce, round them:

_or_, a bunch of asparagus in the centre, the cutlets round, and more grass

cut in points to garnish: _or_, French beans or peas the same way: _or_ (a

very pretty dish), divide in 8 or 10 pieces 2 nicely boiled small

cauliflowers, and put them into a saucepan with a tea-cupful of white

sauce, a tea-spoonful of lump sugar, and a little salt; when it boils, pour

in the yolk of an egg mixed with 4 table-spoonsful of cream, and serve it

as above.

_Mutton to Hash._

When a leg of mutton comes from the table, cut slices to hash the next day,

and leave them in the gravy; if the joint be underdone, all the better.

Make a gravy of the gristles, trimmings and any bones of mutton, pepper,

salt, parsley, and 1 or 2 cut onions; skim off the fat, strain it, and put

in the meat (having well floured each slice), with salt to {162}your taste,

and cayenne: simmer very gently about five minutes, to warm the meat

through, and serve with toasted sippets round the dish. This may have

walnut catsup or any other you choose: or 2 pickled walnuts, cut up, and a

little of the liquor; or, and this is a great improvement, when the gravy

is ready, put in 4 tomatas, and simmer for a quarter of an hour before you

put in the meat. Stewed mushrooms are a nice accompaniment. Mutton may be

minced and warmed in a pulp of cucumbers or endive, which has been stewed

in weak broth.--_Or_: put a good sized piece of butter into a stewpan with

½ pint of mushrooms, ½ an eschalot minced, and boil them gently; then mix

in, by degrees, a table-spoonful flour, ½ pint broth, and stew till all the

flavour be extracted; let it cool a little, and put in some minced

underdone mutton, to heat through, without boiling.

_Hunter's Pie._

Line a mould with mashed potatoes, fill it with slices of cold beef or

mutton, or mutton or lamb chops, well seasoned, cover with mashed potatoes,

and bake it. Some add a very little minced onion.

_Leg of Lamb with Vegetables._

Cut the loin of a small hind quarter into chops, and fry them. Boil the

leg, delicately white, place it in the middle of the dish, a border of

spinach round, and the fried chops upon that.--_Or_: instead of spinach,

put a sprig of boiled cauliflower between each chop. Pour hot melted butter

over the leg.--_Or_: season the chops, brush them with egg, and roll them

in a mixture of bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, grated lemon peel, nutmeg,

and salt; fry them in butter, and pour over a good gravy, with oysters or

mushrooms. Serve hot; garnish with forcemeat balls.

_Breast of Lamb._

Stew it in good broth twenty minutes, let it cool, then score it in

diamonds. Season well with pepper, salt, and mixed spices; dredge flour

over, stick on some little bits of butter, finish in the Dutch oven, and

serve on spinach, stewed cucumbers, or green peas.

{163}_Lamb Cutlets and Steaks._

Flatten, season, and stew them in veal broth, and a little milk; season

with white pepper and mace. When nearly done, thicken the sauce with

mushroom powder, a bit of butter rolled in flour, and add a tea-cupful of

hot cream.--_Lamb Chops with Potatoes_--Cut handsome chops from the neck,

and trim the bone. Season, egg, and dip them in bread-crumbs and parsley,

and fry of a pale yellow. Mash some potatoes thin, with butter or cream,

place this high in the centre of a dish, score it, and arrange the chops

round, leaning each one on the side of the adjoining one. Garnish with

lemon slices, and pickled mushrooms.

_Shoulder of Lamb Stuffed._

Take out the bone, and fill the vacancy with forcemeat. This may be

roasted; or, if to be rich, stewed in good gravy, or braised. Glaze it, if

you like, and serve with sorrel, or tomata sauce.--_Or_: parboiled, allowed

to cool, scored in diamonds, seasoned with pepper, salt, and kitchen

pepper, and finished on the gridiron, or in a Dutch oven. _Sauce Robert_,

mushroom, or sorrel sauce, or a clear gravy. _Or_: bone a small shoulder,

lard the under side, with strips of bacon, rolled in a mixture of cloves,

mace, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, in small proportions. Roll the

meat up, tie, and stew it in veal broth: or braise, and then glaze it.

Serve it on cucumbers stewed in cream, or on stewed mushrooms.

_Lamb's Head_

May be dressed the same as _Calf's Head_.--_Or_: parboil, then score,

season and egg it, cover with a mixture of bread-crumbs and parsley, and

brown it before the fire. Mince part of the liver, the tongue, and heart,

and stew till tender, in a little broth or water, with pepper and salt. Fry

the rest of the liver with parsley. Put the mince in a dish, the head on

it, and the fried liver round.

_Lamb Fricassee._

Cut the best part of the brisket into square pieces of 4 {164}inches each;

wash, dry, and flour them. Simmer for ten minutes 4 oz. butter, 1 of fat

bacon, and some parsley, then put in the meat, an onion cut small, pepper,

salt, and the juice of half a lemon: simmer this two hours, then add the

yolks of two eggs, shake the pan over the fire five minutes, and serve it.

_Lamb's Sweetbreads._

Blanch, then stew them in clear gravy twenty minutes; put in white pepper,

salt, and mace; thicken with butter rolled in flour, and add the yolks of

two eggs well beaten, and stirred into a coffee-cup of cream, a little

nutmeg and finely chopped parsley; pour the cream and eggs in by degrees,

then heat it over the fire, but stir all the time. _Veal sweetbreads_ in

the same way. The best mode of re-warming _Lamb_ is to _broil_, either over

or before the fire.

_Venison to Hash._

Cut in thin slices, and warm it in its own gravy; season with pepper, salt,

mace, grated lemon peel, one wine-glassful of port and white wine mixed,

and a table-spoonful each, of mushroom and walnut catsup and soy. Serve

toasted sippets round it. If lean, mix with it some thin small slices of

the firm fat of mutton. Cold venison may be minced and dressed as directed

for beef.

_Shoulder of Venison to Stew._

If too lean to roast, then bone and flatten it, lay over some thin slices

of fat, well-flavoured mutton; season well with white pepper, salt, and

mixed spices, roll it up tight, bind with tape, and stew it slowly in beef

or mutton gravy, in a stew-pan which will just hold it; the lid close. When

nearly done, put in a very little cayenne, allspice, and ½ pint of claret

or Port. Stew three hours. Take off the tape, place the meat in a dish, and

strain the gravy over. Venison sauce.

_Venison Collops and Steaks._

A good way to dress what is too lean to roast well. Having cut thin long

slices from the haunch, neck, or loin; {165}make a good gravy of the bones

and trimmings, strain it into a small stew-pan, put in a little piece of

butter rolled in flour to thicken it, then a very little lemon, a

wine-glassful of port or claret, pepper, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg; whilst

this simmers gently, fry the collops, and pour the sauce hot over. You may

add tarragon or eschalot vinegar, also soy and mushroom catsup. Garnish

with fried crumbs. Season the steaks, and dip them in melted butter, then

in bread-crumbs, and broil them in buttered papers, over a quick fire.

Serve very hot, with good gravy in a tureen.

_Pig to Collar._

It should be three or four weeks older than for roasting. Bone it, and

season well with mixed spices; then spread over a layer of thin forcemeat

of herbs, hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, and a _little_ suet, then a layer

of thin slices of veal, a layer of seasoning, and so on; roll it up, tie in

a cloth, and stew it three hours, in just enough water to cover the pig. It

will then require to be tied tighter at each end, and put under a weight

till cold.

_Pork to Roll._

Bone the neck, spread over the inside a forcemeat of sage, crumbs, salt,

pepper, and a very little allspice. Tie it up, and roast very slowly.

_Pork Chops with Onions._

Season the chops on both sides with pepper and salt, brush them over with

olive oil, and roll them in bread-crumbs; put them on the gridiron, taking

care that the fire be clear, and do not turn the chops more than once. Put

12 large onions in slices, into a saucepan with a large piece of butter,

turn the saucepan frequently that the onions may imbibe the butter equally;

add half a tea-cupful of boiling water, some pepper and salt, and let the

onions simmer three quarters of an hour; strain and mix with them a little

made mustard. Place the onions in a dish and the chops on them.

_Pig's Head Roasted._

Divide the head of a young porker in half, take out the {166}brains and

clean the inside; stuff it with bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, lemon peel, a

very little suet, and an egg, to bind it, tie the head up carefully, and

roast it. Serve with brain and currant sauce.

_Pig's Feet and Ears soused._

Clean carefully, soak them some hours, then boil them tender, and when cold

pour over the following pickle: some of the liquor they were boiled in, ¼

part of vinegar and some salt. Cut the feet in two, slice the ears, dip

them in batter and fry them. Serve melted butter, vinegar and mustard.

_To Fricassee._

Boil, and when cold cut in pieces, and simmer them in a very little veal

broth, with onion, mace and lemon peel; just before you serve it, add a

little cream, and a bit of butter rolled in flour.

_Corned Pork with Peas._

Put a large piece of butter into a stew-pan with half a table-spoonful of

flour, and when it is melted add a tea-cupful of boiling water, chopped

herbs and pepper. Wash in three waters a small piece of corned pork, put it

in the stew-pan, and when it has cooked half an hour add three pints of

green peas, and let it cook one hour. Take out the herbs and pork, pass the

rest through a sieve; serve the peas round the pork.

_Hare to Jug._

A tender young hare is better jugged than an old one, but one that is too

old to roast, may be good jugged. Cut it in rather small pieces, season

with salt and pepper, and you may lard them if you like, if not put into

the jar two slices of good bacon, then put in the pieces of hare with the

following mixture; half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, a blade of mace and a

very small bunch of sweet herbs, four silver onions, one stuck with six

cloves, two wine-glassfuls of Port wine, half a pint of water, or thin

broth, and a table-spoonful of currant jelly. Set the jug in a saucepan of

boiling {167}water, or put it in the oven for two or three hours, according

to its age. Lay the meat on a dish before the fire, strain the liquor, boil

it up, and pour hot over the hare; you may add lemon juice, walnut or

mushroom catsup, and another glass of Port wine.--_Or_: you may put 2 lbs.

of coarse beef in, to make the gravy better. This, and especially if the

hare be an old one, will require an hour longer.

_Hare to Stew._

Cut off the legs and shoulders, cut down the back and divide each side into

three. Season these with pepper, salt, and mixed spices, and steep them 4

or 5 hours in eschalot vinegar, and 2 or 3 bay leaves. Make about 1½ pint

of good gravy, of beef or mutton stock, the neck, head, liver, heart and

trimmings of the hare, 3 onions, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, 12 black

peppers, the same of allspice, and a slice of bacon, in small pieces.

Strain this into a clean stew-pan, and put the hare and the vinegar into

it; let it stew slowly, until done. If required, add salt, more spices, and

cayenne; also good sauces, and Port wine if you choose. Thicken with

browned flour. An _old hare_ may be larded and stewed in a braise.

_Hare to Hash._

Into a pint of gravy put 2 silver onions, 4 cloves, and a very little salt

and cayenne, simmer gently till the flavour of the spice and vegetables is

extracted, then take them out, add 2 table-spoonsful of red currant jelly,

the same of Port wine, and when quite hot, put in the slices of hare, and

any stuffing there may be. Serve it hot with sippets and currant jelly.

_Rabbits with fine herbs._

Joint 2 white young rabbits, and fry the pieces in butter with some rasped

bacon, a handful of chopped mushrooms, parsley, eschalot, pepper, salt, and

allspice; when of a nice brown put it into a stew-pan, with a tea-cupful of

good gravy and a tea-spoonful of flour. Stew slowly till done, skim and

strain the sauce, and serve it hot about the {168}meat; the livers minced

and cooked with it. When you serve it, add the juice of ½ a lemon and a

very little cayenne.

_Rabbits to Fricassee._

Cut them in joints and parboil them; take off the skin, and stew them in

gravy of knuckle of veal, lean ham, sweet herbs, mace, nutmeg, white

pepper, lemon peel and mushroom powder; when the meat is tender, thicken

the gravy with the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs in a pint of cream; stir in

gradually 2 table-spoonsful of oyster, 1 of lemon pickle, and 1 of essence

of anchovy. Serve very hot. Stewed mushrooms are good with this. Garnish

with slices of lemon and pickled barberries.

_Rabbit, Hare, and Game to Pot._

_Rabbit_ must be seasoned with pepper, salt, cayenne, mace, and allspice,

all in fine powder.--_Hare_ with salt, pepper, and mace.--_Partridges_,

with mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt in fine powder.--Read

directions to pot beef, and proceed in the same way.

_Turkey to Braise._

Truss it as for boiling: put 3 onions, a carrot, turnip, and a head of

celery, all sliced, at the bottom of a stew-pan, with a bunch of parsley, a

sprig of thyme, 2 bay leaves, 3 cloves, and a blade of mace, also ½ lb. of

lean ham, and 2 lbs. of veal cut small, put in 2 quarts of water, and then

the turkey (the breast downwards), cover close, and let it simmer over a

slow fire about two hours, according to its size; then take it up, and keep

it hot, strain the stock into a stew-pan, boil it over the fire, and skim

off all the fat; have 2 oz. butter melted in another stew-pan, stir in

enough flour to make it thickish, and keep stirring till it is cooked

enough, but keep it white, then take it from the fire, and keep stirring

till half cold, pour in the stock, add a little sugar, and boil it all up,

stirring all the time: place the turkey on the dish, with either some

cauliflower heads or Brussels sprouts round it, and pour the sauce over.

{169}_Fowls, with Mushroom Sauce._

Braise them the same as directed for turkey, and when the stock is strained

into the stew-pan, put in some mushrooms, and stew it till they are cooked,

add lump sugar, and, at the last, stir in the yolk of 1 egg, beat up with a

table-spoonful of cream, take it off the fire, and pour over the fowl in

the dish.--_Or_: do not braise, but stew the fowl, in good stock, and when

done, thicken the gravy, and put in enough button mushrooms; serve mushroom

sauce with this, or a white fricassee of mushrooms round it.--_Fowl with

Oysters_: the same as either of the above, using oysters in the place of

mushrooms.

_Fowl to Force._

Bone, then stuff a large fowl with a forcemeat made of ¼ lb. of veal, fowl,

or turkey; 2 oz. grated ham, 2 oz. yolk of hard-boiled egg, lemon peel,

mixed spices, and cayenne to taste; beat the whole in a mortar, to a paste,

adding 2 raw eggs to bind it. Sew up the fowl, form it into its own natural

shape, draw in the legs, and truss the wings. Stew it slowly in clear white

broth; when nearly done, thicken the sauce with butter, rolled in flour;

just before you serve it, add a little hot cream, by degrees, to the sauce,

stirring all the time. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into a dish, lay the

fowl in the centre, and pour the sauce over it.--_Or_: the stuffing may be

of pork sausage, and the fowl roasted; serve good gravy in the dish, and

bread sauce in a tureen.

_Chickens, Pigeons, or Rabbits, to Braise._

Bone and stuff them as directed in the last receipt, and lay slices of

bacon on them. Brown a few sliced onions in a stew-pan, and add all the

bones and trimmings, with, if you can, two shanks or a scrag of mutton, or

a shank of veal, a bunch of sweet herbs, mace, and a pint of broth or soft

water; simmer gently one hour. Then put in the chicken, cover the lid of

the stew-pan with a cloth in thick folds, and let it stew very gently till

done. If you wish to glaze the chicken, pigeon, or rabbit, take it out, and

keep it hot while you strain the gravy, and boil it quickly to a jelly;

{170}glaze the chicken, and serve with a brown fricassee of mushrooms.

_Chickens to Fricassee._

Cut them up, and season the joints with mixed spices and white pepper. Put

into a pint of clear gravy or stock, two onions, three blades of mace, a

large piece of lemon peel, and a bunch of sweet herbs. When ready put in

the chickens, and stew them gently half an hour, covered close. When done,

take them out, keep hot over boiling water, strain the sauce, thicken it

with butter rolled in flour, and add salt and nutmeg. Just before you serve

it, pour in, by degrees, ¼ pint of cream, heated, and the yolks of two

eggs, beaten; keep stirring least it curdle, and do not let it boil: pour

it over the chickens. A glass of white wine may be added. Garnish with

lemon. You may put into the stew-pan, a quarter of an hour after the

chickens, some quite young green peas and lettuce.--The French _Fricassée

Naturel_ is as follows: cut up the chickens, blanch them in hot water a few

minutes, then dip them into cold water, and put them into a stew-pan with 4

oz. butter, parsley, green onions, and a tea-cupful of trimmed button

mushrooms, to warm through, and slightly brown; add salt and white pepper,

and dredge flour over them; then put in a little of the liquor they were

blanched in, and let it simmer half an hour, or till the chickens are done:

take them out, and keep hot, strain the sauce, give it a quick boil, add

the yolks of two eggs, and pour it over the chickens.

_Fowl à la Chingara._

Cut a fat fowl down the back and breast, then across, to be in four equal

parts. Melt a very little piece of butter in a stew-pan, put in four slices

from the thickest part of a boiled ham, then the fowl, and stew it gently,

till done; take out, keep it hot, pour the fat off the glaze at the bottom

of the stew-pan, and pour in a little good gravy, salt, pepper, and

cayenne. Simmer gently a few minutes, during which, fry, in the fat you

have poured off, four toasts, dust over them a little pepper and salt,

place them in a dish, a quarter of the fowl on each; either with the ham or

not. Skim the sauce, and serve in a tureen.

{171}_Cold Fowl or Turkey to Pull._

Take off the skin, and pull the meat off the breast and wings, in long

flakes; brown these in the frying-pan with a piece of butter, drain them

from the fat, put them into a saucepan with a little gravy previously

seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and mace. Simmer gently, to warm the

meat; during which, score and season the legs, if turkey, and broil them,

with the sidebones and back. Thicken the sauce with the yolks of two eggs,

and add a tea-cupful of hot cream. Serve the hash in the middle, the broil

round. Garnish with toasted sippets. Mushroom sauce good with this.

_Boudins_ are made thus: mince the meat which is left on fowl or turkey;

put a tea-spoonful of chopped onion and a piece of butter into a stew-pan

and turn it over the fire, for a minute or two, then put in a

table-spoonful of flour and mix it well, a pint of stock and the mince,

season with pepper, salt, and sugar; simmer it till heated through, and

then stir quickly in, the yolks of three eggs well beaten, stir it over the

fire, but do not let it boil, and pour it out on a dish to get cold; divide

it into equal parts, and roll them round or to your fancy, egg and

bread-crumb them two or three times, and fry of a light brown. These may be

flavoured with ham, tongue or mushroom cut up in the mince.

_Goose or Hare to Braise._

Stuff it for roasting, lay thin slices of bacon over it; line a stew-pan

with bacon, put the goose and giblets in the centre, 5 or 6 onions, 2

carrots and turnips, a clove of garlic, all sliced, salt, black and Jamaica

peppers, 2 bay leaves, and a slight sprinkling of finely chopped herbs.

Moisten with boiling water. Lay a sheet of paper over, cover close, lay a

folded cloth over the lid, put a weight on the top to keep it tight, and

stew gently. (_See instructions for braising._) Apple, pear, or currant

jelly sauce.

_Turkey or Hare en Daube._

Lard the breast and legs of the turkey with strips of bacon, with salt,

pepper, spices, and herbs; and lay slices of bacon over the breast. Line a

stew-pan with bacon, {172}and put in the turkey, with a hock of ham or a

calf's foot (both if you can), also the head and feet of the turkey, 4

onions, 2 carrots, young onions, a few sprigs of thyme, a bunch of parsley,

and 6 cloves; moisten this, with a tea-cupful of melted butter, and cover

it with white paper. Simmer it five hours; take it off the fire, and let it

stand by the side twenty minutes, or half an hour. Take out the turkey,

strain the gravy, and boil it down quickly; beat up an egg, stir it into

the gravy, put it on the fire, and let it come nearly to a boil, then stand

by the side of the fire half an hour, and it will be a jelly; strain it

again if not clear, and pour it over the turkey.

_Pigeons to Stew._

Put a piece of butter, rolled in flour, a little chopped parsley, and the

liver, into each pigeon, truss, then place them on slices of bacon, in a

stew-pan; cover with more slices of bacon, and stew them three quarters of

an hour. Serve good brown gravy. Stewed mushrooms, if liked. Garnish with

sprigs of boiled cauliflower, or small heads of brocoli. _Or_: add

bread-crumbs to the stuffing, truss them for roasting, and brown them in

the frying-pan; then put them into the stew-pan, with good stock of beef,

flavoured with herbs, mace, anchovies, mushroom powder, onions, and pepper;

stew till tender, then add oyster, mushroom and walnut catsup, Port and

white wine, soy, Gloucester and camp sauces. Garnish with egg balls and

pickled mushrooms.--_Or_: first stuff them with bread-crumbs, spices,

parsley, and a little fresh butter; half roast them in a Dutch oven, and

finish in the stew-pan, in good gravy; to which wine, lemon peel, and

mushrooms may be added. Pour it over the pigeons. Asparagus may be laid

round and between them.--_Pigeons in Jelly_--Pick, wash, and singe two

plump pigeons; leave the heads and feet on, clean them well, clip the nails

close to the claws, and truss them, propping the heads up with skewers;

season inside with pepper and salt, and a bit of butter in each. Put a

quart of the liquor of boiled knuckle of veal, or calf's head or feet, into

a baking-dish, with a slice of lean ham, a blade of mace, a faggot of sweet

herbs, white pepper, lemon peel, and the pigeons. Bake them in a moderate

oven; when done, take them out {173}of the jelly, and set by to get cold,

but cover them to preserve their colour. Skim the fat off the jelly when

cold, then boil it up with the whites of 2 eggs beaten, to clear it, and

strain through a bag. Place the pigeons in a dish, the clear jelly round,

and over them, in rough heaps. Instead of baking, you may roast the

pigeons, and when cold, put a sprig of anything you like into their bills,

place them on some of the jelly, and heap more of it round.--_Pigeons in

Forcemeat_--Spread a savoury forcemeat in a dish, then in layers, very thin

slices of fat bacon, young pigeons cut up, sliced sweetbreads blanched, 2

palates boiled tender and cut up, mushrooms, asparagus tops, cockscombs and

the yolks of 4 eggs boiled hard; spread more forcemeat on the top, bake it,

and turn it out in a dish, with rich gravy poured round. _Pigeons en

Compote._--Parboil 2 large pigeons; take them out of the water, and squeeze

the juice of half a lemon over the breast of each. Have prepared in a

stew-pan ¼ lb. of butter, a table-spoonful of flour, and 2 tea-cupsful of

weak broth, a faggot of herbs, pepper, salt, a piece of ham and 8 mushrooms

in quarters: place the pigeons in this, and stew them slowly till tender.

Blanch 12 button onions, and a ¼ of an hour before they are done, put them

in the stew-pan. When done, take out the herbs and ham, skim the gravy,

pour it over the pigeons, in a dish, and the onions round.

_Ducks with Peas._

Season them with salt, pepper, cayenne and mixed spices. Lay some very thin

slices of bacon in a stew-pan, the ducks on them, more slices over them,

moisten with broth, or water, and stew them from half to a whole hour,

according to their age, and size. While they are stewing, parboil, and fry

in butter, or with bits of bacon, 2 or 3 pints of young green peas, pour

off the fat, put them in a stew-pan with a very little water or broth,

salt, pepper, sugar, a bunch of parsley, and some young onions. Take the

onions and parsley out from the peas, skim off the fat, and pour the gravy

over the ducks.--_Or_: half roast the ducks, and stew them in a pint of

good gravy, a little mint, and 3 sage leaves chopped small, cover close and

let it stew half an hour. Boil a pint of green peas as for eating, and put

them in, after you have thickened the {174}gravy: put the ducks into a

dish, and pour the gravy and peas over.

_Ducks to Ragout._

Prepare them the same as pigeons to stew, brown them all round, in the

frying-pan, then stew them in good broth, till tender. Season well with

pepper, salt, onions, sage, and what other herbs you like. Thicken the

sauce with browned flour and butter. Add a glass of Port, if you like, and

pour it over them.

_Ducks to Hash._

Cut them up, as at table, and if you have not any gravy suitable, prepare

some of the trimmings, 3 onions, a bunch of herbs, pepper, salt, sugar, and

spices. Strain, thicken it, and put in the pieces of duck; do not let the

gravy even simmer, but keep hot by the side of the fire until the meat is

heated through. Port wine or catsup, and cayenne may be added.--_Goose_ may

be hashed in this way, the legs scored, seasoned and broiled, laid on the

hash, or served by themselves.

_Wild Fowl to Ragout._

Half roast the bird, score the breast in 3 at each side, lightly strew

mixed spices and cayenne into each cut, squeeze lemon juice over the

spices. Stew it till tender, in good brown gravy, take it out and keep hot;

add 1 or 2 finely shred eschalots to the gravy, also a glass of Port wine,

and pour it over the wild fowl; any game may be re-warmed cut up, in good

gravy, boiling hot, thickened with bread-crumbs, and seasoned with salt,

spices to taste, wine, and lemon juice, or pickle.

_Snipes, Landrails or Woodcocks to Ragout._

Pick 2 or 3 very carefully, take out the trail, and lard them with slices

of fat and lean ham, dredge well with flour, and fry in butter of a light

brown: then stew in good gravy, flavoured with sherry or Madeira, Port or

claret, anchovy, oyster, and lemon pickle, and walnut catsup, 2

table-spoonsful of soy, cayenne and Gloucester sauce. Thicken with

{175}flour and butter. Just before serving add the juice of a lemon, and 1

table-spoonful of eschalot vinegar. Pound the trail with salt, lay it on

slices of buttered toast, before the fire, put it in a deep dish, serve the

ragout over.

_Partridge or Wild Duck Salmi._

Par-roast two partridges, which have been kept long _enough_, when cold,

skin and carve them, put them into a small saucepan with one eschalot, a

bit of lemon peel, a very little dressed ham in small bits, all the

trimmings of the birds, a large glass of Madeira, half a wine-glassful of

the best olive oil, pepper, salt, cayenne and the juice of a lemon. When

just heated through, dish the birds on a very hot dish, pour the strained

sauce over, and serve very hot, with grilled toasts. A little good sauce of

veal gravy, the trimmings, cayenne, and the juice of a bitter orange; then

put in the pieces of duck, and simmer till hot.

_Tripe to Fricassee._

Stew a piece of the thick part in well-seasoned veal stock. Cut it in

strips, shake it over the fire in white sauce, five minutes; squeeze the

juice of a lemon in the dish, pour the fricassee in, and garnish with

slices of lemon. If maigre, cream and yolk of egg will enrich it.

_Mock Brawn._

Having cleaned a hog's head, split it, take out the brains, cut off the

ears, and rub the head well with salt. Let it drain for twelve hours,

spread 2 oz. common salt and 1½ oz. bay salt over it, and the next day put

it into a pan, cover with cold water, and let it stand a day and night.

Then wash well, and boil it until the bone comes out; skin the head and

tongue, and cut both into bits. Put half of the skin into a pan, spread the

meat in layers, season with salt and pepper, press it down hard, and cover

with the other half of the skin. If too fat, add bits of lean pork. Make a

pickle of 2 oz. salt, a pint of vinegar, and a quart of the liquor; boil it

three times, and when cold pour it over.

{176}_Tripe in the Scotch Fashion._

First boiled and cold; then simmer it gently in milk and water, with salt,

and a piece of butter. When quite tender, take it out, and let it cool,

whilst you prepare a thick batter of three eggs, three spoonsful of flour

and some milk; add green onions or chives, parsley chopped fine, and

ginger. Cut the tripe in square cutlets or strips, dip them in the batter,

thick enough to form a thick crust, and fry in beef dripping.

_A Scotch Haggis._

Having cleaned a sheep's pluck, cut some places in the heart and liver, to

let out the blood, and parboil it all (during which the windpipe should

hang over the side of the pot in a bowl, that it may empty itself). Scum

the water, as the pluck boils: indeed, it ought to be changed. From half to

three quarters of an hour will be sufficient. Take it all out, cut off

about half of the liver, and put it back to boil longer. Trim away all

pieces of skin and black-looking parts from the other half of the liver,

the heart, and part of the lights, and mince all together, with 1 lb. of

beef suet and three or four onions. The other half of the liver having

boiled half an hour longer, put it in the air to get cold; then grate it to

the mince, and put more onions if you like, but slightly parboiled. Toast a

large tea-cupful of oatmeal flour; turn it often with a spoon, that it may

be dried equally of a light brown. Spread the mince on a board, and strew

the meal lightly over, with salt, pepper and cayenne. Have ready the haggis

bag (it is better to have two, for one may burst), put in the meat, with

broth to make a thick stew; the richer the broth the better; add a little

vinegar, but take care that the bag be not too full, for the meat must have

room to swell. When it begins to boil, prick the bag with a needle; boil it

slowly, three hours. The _head_ may be parboiled, minced and added.

_Curry of Chicken, Rabbit, or Veal._

_Read in the Chapter on Seasonings, the part relating to Curry

Powder._--Curry may be made of cold meat, and makes a variety with the

common mode of re-warming {177}meat, but not so good a _Curry_ as when made

of undressed meat. Cut the meat into pieces, as are served at table, and

brown them, in butter, with 1 or 2 sliced onions, over a quick fire. When

of a fine amber colour, put it and the onions in a saucepan, with some

veal, mutton broth, or stock of poultry and veal, or mutton trimmings; when

this has simmered long enough to cook the meat, put in the curry powder,

from 2 to 3 dessert-spoonsful, according to the quantity of meat, rubbed

and mixed very smooth with a spoonful of flour; stir this carefully in the

sauce, and simmer it five minutes; when done, put in the juice of a lemon,

and stir in by degrees a coffee-cupful of thick cream. A small part of the

meat and the livers of poultry may be pounded to thicken the sauce.--_Or_:

rub the powder into a thin paste, with cream, and rub each piece of meat

with it, when half cooked, then return it to the saucepan to finish

stewing.--_Another_--Fry 4 large sliced onions in 2 oz. of butter, and put

all into a stew-pan, with either a loin of lamb in steaks, a breast of veal

cut up, chicken, duck or rabbit jointed, or any thing undressed and _lean_,

with a pint of good stock, or more, according to the quantity of meat; stew

till tender: then take out the meat, and mix with the gravy about 2

dessert-spoonsful of turmeric powder, 6 pounded coriander seeds, cayenne to

taste, and 2 table-spoonsful of chili, or eschalot vinegar. Boil these till

thoroughly mixed and thick, and till the turmeric has lost the raw flavour;

then put in the meat, and give it one boil. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon

or a lime, and serve it _very hot_, in a deep dish, with plenty of gravy;

the rice in another.--Stewed onions, stewed cucumbers, or stewed celery,

_brown_, are good with curry. Serve pickles (melon mangoes most suitable),

and chili vinegar.--_Veal cutlets_ fried with onions in butter, and stewed

in gravy as above. _Lamb_, _Duck_, _Cow-heel_, and _Lobster_ make good

curries. Indeed tender _steaks_ and _mutton chops_ are also very good

dressed in curry.

_Curry Kebobbed._

Cut into bits, either chicken and tongue, or veal and ham; season with

eschalot, and fasten them in alternate slices on small skewers. Mix with

flour and butter 2 dessert-spoonsful of curry powder, or 1 of curry paste,

1 of {178}turmeric, and add by degrees ½ pint of good gravy. Fry the meat

with 3 onions, chopped in butter, and put all into a stew-pan with the

gravy, a tea-spoonful of mushroom powder, a wine-glassful of sherry or

Madeira, 2 table-spoonsful of lemon pickle, 2 of garlic or tarragon

vinegar, 1 of soy, 1 of walnut pickle, 1 of claret or Port, and a

tea-spoonful of cayenne vinegar.--Garnish with pickles.

_Curry of Fish._

Slices of _cod_, _turbot_, _brill_, and _halibut_, also _whitings,

haddocks_, and _codlings_, may all be curried. To be maigre, make the gravy

of well-seasoned fish stock; if not, of beef or veal broth, in which an

onion and carrot have been boiled; thicken with butter rubbed in browned

flour. Bone the fish, and cut them into neat pieces, rub with flour, and

fry them in butter, of a light brown. Drain them on a sieve. Mix very

smoothly a table-spoonful of curry powder (more or less according to the

quantity of fish), with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and mix it to a paste

with a little of the broth; add 2 onions, beaten in a mortar, and ¼ pint of

thick cream, mix this in the gravy, or roll the piece of fish in it, then

put them in the gravy, and stew them gently till tender; place them in a

dish, skim the fat off the sauce, and pour over the fish.--_Lobsters_,

_prawns_, _shrimps_, _oysters_, and _muscles_ are curried in the same way,

to form a dish by themselves, or with other fish.--Slices of _cold_ cod,

turbot, or brill are re-warmed in curry sauce.

_Beef or Ham Chutney._

To 1 oz. of grated meat, put 1 small onion chopped very fine, 1

tea-spoonful of grated ginger, and cayenne to taste; mix well together,

adding vinegar or lemon juice.

_Fish Chutney._

Parboil an onion, chop it very fine, and add to the fish, which should be

rather salted, and chopped fine, or grated; add cayenne and vinegar to

taste.

_Rice to Boil for Curry._

Pick, and soak it in water; then boil very quickly, with a {179}little salt

in the water, till tender, but not soft; drain, and lay it on a sieve

reversed, before the fire, to dry. Turn it with a fork, as lightly as

possible, but do not use a spoon. Serve it in a dish by itself; or round

the dish in light heaps, the curry in the middle. After it is boiled, some

cooks pour cold water over, and then set it before the fire to dry. Every

particle ought to be distinct, yet perfectly tender.--_Another_ way is, to

wash it in warm water, pick it carefully, pour boiling water over it in a

stew-pan, cover that close, and keep it by the side of the fire to be quite

hot. In an hour's time, pour off the water, set the stew-pan on the fire,

and stir briskly with a fork till the rice is dry, but not hard.--The

_Hindostanee_ mode is this: when well picked, soak it in cold water a

quarter of an hour; strain and put it into boiling water rather more than

enough to cover it; boil it ten minutes, skimming, if necessary; then add a

gill of milk for each lb. of rice, and boil it two or three minutes; take

it off the fire, strain, and put it back into the saucepan over a slow

fire; pour on it ½ oz. of butter melted, and a table-spoonful of the water

in which it was boiled; boil it slowly, another eight minutes, and it will

be ready.--In _Carolina_ they soak the rice two hours in salt and water,

wash it, put it in a bag of cheese cloth, then steam it twenty minutes, and

each grain will be separated.

_A Pillau._

Stew some rice in broth, or melted butter, till tender, season with salt,

pepper, and mace. Prepare a boiled fowl, or mutton chops, or veal cutlets,

dressed as you like; place them in a hot dish, and if fowl or veal, slices

of boiled bacon over; cover the meat with the rice, glaze it with beaten

egg, and place it before the fire, to brown. Garnish with hard-boiled egg

and slices of lemon.--_Or_: half roast a breast of veal, cut it in pieces,

season with pepper and salt (curry powder, if you like), and stew them in

gravy, or broth. Place a high border of rice round a dish, the veal in the

centre, thin slices of bacon on it, and cover with rice, glaze with yoke of

egg, and brown it. A turkey capon, or old fowl, larded, may be dressed in

this way; or cold poultry, or rabbit.

{180}_Sausages._

To the following receipts saltpetre may be added, to give a red hue.

Mushrooms and oysters give a nice flavour, but the sausages do not keep

well. Sausage meat may be cooked without skins: mould it into flat cakes,

moistening with yolk of egg, to bind, and then fry them. These cakes form a

pretty supper dish, garnished with curled parsley; also a garnish for roast

turkey or fowl. The ingredients must be _well mixed_. Herbs ought to be

used sparingly. _Pork Sausages._--Cut 3 lbs. of fat, and 3 lbs. of lean

pork, into thin slices, scrape each one, and throw away the skin; cut the

meat altogether, as small as possible, with 2 oz. salt, ½ oz. pepper, 6

tea-spoonsful of sage, chopped fine, 2 nutmegs, and 2 eggs. Boil a pint of

water, let it get cold, put in the crumb of a penny roll, to soak all

night; the next morning mix it with the other ingredients, and fill the

skins. _Oxford Sausages._--To 1 lb. pork, add 1 lb. veal, 12 oz. beef suet,

3 oz. grated bread, 3 eggs, well beaten, with mace, black pepper, salt, and

sweet herbs, these last chopped, then pounded in a mortar, before they are

put to the other ingredients. Anchovy is an improvement.--_Or_: leave out

the bread, herbs and suet, have plenty of fat to mix with the lean, mix it

with yolk of egg, into long thin cakes, and fry them. _Epping

Sausages._--Equal portions of young tender pork, and beef suet. Mince them

very finely, season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a little chopped

sage. _Veal Sausages._--Equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, ½ a

handful of sage leaves, salt, pepper, and a few anchovies; beat all well in

a mortar. Roll this into cakes and fry them. _Bologna Sausages._--An equal

portion of beef, veal, lean pork and fat of bacon, minced and mixed well

together. Season with pepper, salt, and spices; fill a large skin, and boil

it an hour.

_Rissoles._

Any sort of cold meat, but veal, chicken, turkey and sweetbreads are best.

Mince the meat, season with salt and pepper, and stew it two minutes in

well-seasoned gravy; use no more than sufficient to moisten the mince. Let

it get cold, then roll into balls; dip these into egg beaten; then into

bread-crumbs, and fry them of a light {181}brown. When done, place them in

a dish, and pour good gravy into it.--_Or_: roll out thin puff paste,

spread some mince on it, and roll up, in what shape you please; fry of a

light brown. Rissoles may be made of cold turbot, shrimps, lobster and cod;

season with cayenne and thin melted butter; add the yolk of an egg to bind

it, then roll up in thin puff paste and fry them.

_A Bread Border._

Cut slices of firm stale bread, the thickness of the blade of a knife, into

any shape you like. Heat some top fat, or oil, in a saucepan, and put in

the sippets. Take some out before they are much browned, and let the rest

brown more. Drain well, fasten each one up with white paper, until you are

ready to use them; then pierce the end of an egg, let out a little of the

white, beat it up with a knife, and mix in a little flour. Heat a dish, dip

one side or point of each sippet in the egg, and stick them, one by one, on

the dish, in what form you please, and put the ragout or fricassee in the

centre.

_A Rice Border._

Soak the rice well, then stew it with salt and a blade of mace; to be

richer, use butter and yolk of egg. When just tender, and no more, place it

round the dish, as an edging; glaze with beaten yolk of egg, and set it in

the oven, or before the fire, a few minutes; then put in the curry, or

hash, &c. &c.

_Potatoe Border._

Mash them nicely; and form a neat border round the edge of the dish; mark

it and glaze with yolk of egg; brown it in the oven, and put the hash in

the centre.

_Omelets._

These with practice, are easily made, and are convenient to make out a

dinner or supper, especially in the country, where fresh eggs may almost

always be obtained. Omelets are so common in France, that the poorest inn

by the road {182}side will always furnish one. _Fresh_ eggs are essential;

the frying-pan should be round and small. The basis of most omelets is the

following: beat well the yolks of 6 and the whites of 3 eggs, put to them a

little salt and 2 table-spoonsful of water; put 1½ oz. fresh butter into

the frying-pan, and hold it over the fire; when the butter is hot, pour in

the eggs, shake the pan constantly, or keep stirring the eggs till they

become firm, then with a knife lift the edge all round, that the butter may

get under. If over done, it will be hard and dry. Gather the border up,

roll the omelet, and serve in a hot dish. This may be flavoured in various

ways: with grated lemon peel, nutmeg and mace; _or_ with the juice of a

Seville orange; _or_ with grated ham, tongue, _or_ veal kidney, pepper and

salt; _or_ finely chopped parsley, green onions, chives and herbs: _also_,

for maigre dinners, lobster meat, shrimps or the soft parts of oysters may

be pounded, seasoned and put into the eggs. A pounded anchovy, and, also,

mushroom powder, may be used to give flavour. Potatoe or wheaten flour,

about a table-spoonful, is sometimes added to the eggs.

_Eggs to Poach._

Boil some spring water, skim it, and put in a table-spoonful of vinegar.

Break off the top of the egg with a knife, and let it slip gently into the

boiling water, turning the shell over the egg, to gather in the white; this

is said to be a better way than to break the egg into a cup, then turn it

into the water. Let the saucepan stand by the side of the fire till the

white is set, then put it over the fire for two minutes. Take them up, with

a slice; trim them, and serve on toasts, spinach, brocoli, sorrel, slices

of broiled ham, or in the centre of a dish, with pork sausages round.

_Eggs to Fry._

Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan, and slip the eggs in.--_Or_: lay

some thin slices of bacon in a dish before the fire, to toast; break the

eggs into tea-cups, and slip them gently into boiling lard, in a

frying-pan. When done, little more than two minutes, trim the white, and

lay each one on a slice of bacon. Make a sauce of weak broth, cayenne, made

mustard and vinegar.

{183}_Eggs to Butter._

Beat 12 eggs with 2 table-spoonsful of gravy; melt ¼ lb. butter, stir the

eggs and this together, in a bason with pepper, salt, and finely minced

onion, if liked. Pour this backwards and forwards from one bason to

another, then into a stew-pan on the fire, and stir constantly with a

wooden spoon, to prevent burning. When of a proper thickness, serve on

toast.

_Eggs to Fricassee._

Boil them hard, then cut the eggs in slices, pour a good white sauce over,

and serve with sippets round the dish.

_Eggs to Ragout._

Boil 8 eggs hard, take off the shell, cut them in quarters. Have ready a

pint of gravy, well seasoned and thickened, and pour it hot over the

eggs.--_Or_: melt some butter, thicken with flour, season with nutmeg and

mace, add a tea-cupful of cream, and pour hot over the eggs.

_Swiss Eggs._

Put a piece of butter the size of a small egg into a saucepan with ¼ lb.

grated cheese, a little nutmeg, parsley and chives finely chopped, and ½ a

glass of white wine. Stir it over a slow fire, till the cheese is melted;

then mix in 6 eggs well beaten, set it on the fire, and keep stirring till

done. Serve in the centre of a small dish, with toasted sippets round.

_Scotch Eggs._

Boil 4 eggs hard, as for salad, peel and dip them, first in beaten egg,

then in a forcemeat of grated ham, crumbs and spices. Fry in clarified

dripping, and serve in gravy. _Or_: in white sauce.

_Eggs à la Tripe._

Fry 4 sliced Spanish onions in butter, then dust in some flour, let it

catch to a light brown, put in a breakfast {184}cupful of hot milk, salt

and pepper, and let it reduce. Then add 12 hard-boiled eggs, some in halves

or quarters, others in slices, mix these gently in the sauce (a

tea-spoonful of made mustard if you like), and serve it.

_Eggs à la Maitre d'Hotel._

Fry onions as in the last receipt, add melted butter, with plenty of

parsley chopped in it, put in the eggs and serve quite hot.

_Fondu._

Mix an equal quantity of grated parmesan and Gloucester cheese, add double

the weight in beaten yolk of egg and cream, or melted butter; beat all well

together, add pepper and salt, then the whites of the eggs, which have been

beaten separately: stir them lightly in, and bake in deep tin dish, or in

paper cases, but fill only half full, as it will rise very much. Serve

quite hot.

_Ramakins._

Beat an equal portion of Gloucester and Cheshire cheese in a mortar, with

the crumb of a French roll, soaked in milk, and the yolks of 3 eggs; season

with salt and pepper, and when beaten to a paste, add the whites of 2 eggs,

and bake them in saucers, in the Dutch oven.--_Or_: roll paste out thin,

lay a thin slice of cheese on it, cover with paste, and bake like

puffs.--_Or_: beat ¼ lb. Cheshire cheese with 2 eggs and 2 oz. butter, and

form it into cakes to cover thin pieces of bread cut round with a

wine-glass. Lay these on a dish, not touching one another, put it on a

chaffing dish of coals, hold a salamander over till quite brown, and serve

hot.

_Asparagus and Eggs._

Beat 4 eggs well, with pepper and salt. Cut some dressed asparagus into

pieces the size of peas, and stir into the eggs. Melt 2 oz. of butter, in a

small stew-pan, pour in the mixture, stir till it thickens, and serve hot

on a toast.

{185}_Mushrooms and Eggs._

Slice and fry some large onions and a few button mushrooms; drain them

well; boil some eggs hard, and slice them; simmer in good gravy, or melted

butter, with pepper, salt, mustard, and eschalot vinegar.

_Devils._

These are made of legs, rumps, backs and gizzards of cold turkey, goose,

capon, and all kinds of game, venison, mutton kidney, the back bone of

mackerel well buttered, biscuits and rusks. The meat must be well scored

for the seasonings to find their way into it: salt, pepper, cayenne, curry,

mushroom, truffle, and anchovy powder, must be used according to taste.

Broil, over a quick strong fire, and serve them dry, if to eat with wine;

but they may be served with anchovy, or any _piquant_ sauce. Served in a

hot water dish.--_Biscuits_ are spread with butter, heated before the fire

and sprinkled with the seasonings.

_Anchovy Toasts._

Fry thin slices of bread, without the crust, in butter. Spread them with

pounded anchovies mixed with butter.

_Mock Caviare._

Bone 6 anchovies, pound them in a mortar with dried parsley, a clove of

garlic, cayenne, salt and salad oil, also lemon juice if you like. Serve on

toast or biscuit.

_Sandwiches._

The bread should be cut in thin slices with a sharp knife. Various things

are used. Slices of beef, ham, or tongue, or either of the last two grated

or scraped; also German or pork sausage, anchovies and shrimps; forcemeat,

and all kinds of potted meat. Some persons cut the meat in very little

pieces, and spread them over the bread; a mixture of ham and chicken in

this way makes delicate sandwiches: or ham and hard-boiled yolk of egg,

seasoned with salt, mustard, or curry powder, according to the meat. Cheese

sandwiches are made thus: 2 parts of grated parmesan or {186}Cheshire

cheese, one of butter, and a small portion of made mustard; pound them in a

mortar; cover slices of bread with a little, then thin slices of ham, or

any cured meat, cover with another slice of bread, and press it lightly

down; cut these sandwiches small.

_Maccaroni._ (_See to make the paste._)

Boil 2 oz. in good broth or gravy, till tender; add a small piece of

butter, and a little salt, give it a turn in the stew-pan, and put it in

the dish. Scrape parmesan, stilton, or any other dry rich cheese over, and

brown it before the fire.--_Or_: mix a pint of milk and a pint of water,

put in 2 oz. maccaroni, and simmer it slowly three hours, till the liquor

is wasted, and the maccaroni tender. Add grated cheese, salt, and cayenne,

mix well, and brown it before the fire. Maccaroni plain boiled, with a

little salt, till tender, and the gravy of roast or boiled meat poured over

it, is light and nourishing for an invalid. _Maccaroni in the Italian

way._--Mince about six livers of fowl or game with a very little celery,

young onion, and parsley (blanched), and stew them in good butter. Then

have six more livers cut small, not minced, and cooked in a little butter.

Boil 2 oz. of maccaroni in white gravy, season it, if necessary, add

powdered mace and cayenne; when done, put a layer of it in a deep hot dish,

then a layer of the mince, a layer of grated parmesan, then maccaroni, and

at top the chopped livers and more cheese, and enough of the gravy to

moisten it sufficiently; put it before the fire a quarter of an hour, or on

a slow stove: then brown it or not as you choose. _Another_

(_Italian_).--Boil it in water, pass it through a cullender, and having

ready prepared some tomata sauce (_which see_), lift a layer of the

maccaroni lightly with two forks out of the cullender into a deep vegetable

or hash dish, put a light sprinkling of grated cheese, then tomata sauce,

then maccaroni, and again tomata sauce, till the dish be full; if the

maccaroni be dry, add butter in little bits, and cayenne, if you think

proper. This is not browned. You may omit the cheese. _Maccaroni

Maigre._--Simmer 2 oz. maccaroni in a pint of milk and a pint of water

(mixed) three hours, and the liquor wasted: stir into it grated cheese,

salt, and cayenne, and brown it before the fire.

{187}_Toast and Cheese._

Toast a slice of stale bread half an inch thick, without the crust, butter

one side, and lay on slices of toasting cheese; put it into a

cheese-toaster before the fire; when done, lightly pepper and salt it, and

serve it hot.

_Welsh or Scotch Rabbit._

There are many receipts for this, and the following is a good one. Mix some

butter with grated cheese (unless that be so fat that the butter is not

required), add salt, pepper, made mustard, and a tea-cupful of brown stout

or Port wine; put this into a cheese-toaster, stir till the cheese be

dissolved, then brown, and serve it quite hot: toasts in a separate dish.

CHAPTER XV.

STUFFING AND FORCEMEAT.

WITH regard to the flavouring ingredients to be used in making these, no

precise instructions can be given, because what is disagreeable to one

palate is indispensable to another one, therefore, practice alone will

teach a cook how to succeed in the art of forcemeat making; and so many

flavouring condiments may be used that she may vary her forcemeats to

almost any variety of dishes, taking care that no one flavour predominates,

but the whole be so blended that the proper zest be given without too much

poignancy. Some choose the flavour of onions, thyme, and other herbs, to be

strong, while others dislike even a very little of either. Onion is milder

for being parboiled in two waters, and some think the flavour of eschalot

preferable.--Suet is indispensable; but if it cannot be obtained, beef

marrow, or good fresh butter, are the best substitutes.--Bread-crumbs are

better soaked in milk, than grated dry; in the former case their quantity

must be {188}judged by bulk, not by weight: the bread should be stale. The

French use _Panada_, and prepare it thus: Soak slices of bread in hot milk,

when moist press out the milk from the bread, and beat the latter up, with

a little rich broth or white sauce, and a lump of butter. Stir till

somewhat dry, add the yolks of 2 eggs, and pound the whole well together.

Sweetbreads make delicate forcemeat flavoured with tongue.

Stuffing and forcemeat require to be well pounded in a mortar, and

thoroughly mixed: it ought to be firm enough to cut with a knife, but not

heavy.

The following flavouring ingredients may all be used.

Ham.

Tongue.

Eggs, boiled hard.

Anchovy.

Oysters.

Pickled ditto.

Lobsters.

Mushrooms.

Truffles.

Morells.

Salt.

White pepper.

Jamaica pepper.

Nutmeg.

Mace.

Mushroom powder.

Cayenne.

Cloves.

Curry powder.

Onion.

Parsley.

Tarragon.

Savory.

Knotted marjoram.

Thyme and lemon thyme.

Basil.

Sage.

Lemon peel.

Chervil.

Garlic.

Eschalot.

_The French preparation, called Godiveau._

Scrape 1 lb. of fillet of veal, mince 1½ lb. beef suet, chop scalded

parsley, young onions and mushrooms, enough to season the meat, add pepper,

salt, allspice, and mace; pound the whole well, mixing in 3 raw eggs at

different times, with a little water.

_Another, called Gratin._

½ lb. fillet of veal (if for fowl the livers parboiled), veal udder skinned

and parboiled, and panada, equal parts of each; pepper, salt, cayenne, and

fine herbs; with 3 eggs.

{189}_Forcemeat for Veal, Turkey, Fowls, or Rabbits._

Scrape fine 2 oz. of lean undressed veal, the same of ham, beef or veal

suet, and bread-crumbs; add parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg or mace;

pound well, and add the yolk of an egg to bind it. Add, if you like, a

little onion, parboiled and chopped; sweet herbs, according to taste. For

_boiled_ turkey, the soft parts of 12 oysters, or an anchovy may be

added.--_Room should be given for stuffing to swell._

_Plain stuffing for Veal, Poultry, or Fish._

Chop ½ lb. of beef or veal suet, mix it with 4 oz. bread-crumbs, chopped

parsley, thyme, marjoram, a bay leaf, salt and pepper, and 3 eggs.

_Stuffing for Goose or Duck._

Mix together 4 oz. bread-crumbs, 2 oz. onion, parboiled, ½ oz. sage leaves,

pepper and salt.--_Or_: the liver, some bread-crumbs, butter the size of a

walnut, a sage leaf or two, a sprig of lemon thyme, pepper and salt.

_For Hare._

About 2 oz. beef suet, 1 drachm of parsley leaves, the same of marjoram,

lemon thyme, lemon peel, ½ a drachm of eschalot, and nutmeg, pepper, and

salt; (an anchovy, and cayenne if you choose), mix with an egg; it must be

a stiff stuffing; add the liver, parboiled and minced.

_Forcemeat Balls for Made Dishes._

Pound a piece of veal with an equal quantity of udder, or a third part the

quantity of butter; moisten bread-crumbs with milk; (or soak a piece of

bread in warm milk), then mix in a little chopped parsley and eschalot,

pound it together to a smooth paste; rub through a sieve, and when cold mix

it with the veal and udder, and the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs; season

with salt, pepper, curry powder or cayenne, add the raw yolks of two eggs,

and mix well together in a mortar. This does for small balls to fry, or to

boil in soup.

{190}_Egg Balls._

Boil four eggs ten minutes and put them into cold water; when quite cold,

pound the yolks in a mortar with a raw yolk, a tea-spoonful of flour,

chopped parsley, salt, black pepper and cayenne; roll into small balls, and

boil them two minutes.

_Curry Balls._

Panada, hard-boiled yolk of egg, and fresh butter, pounded well, and

seasoned with curry powder. Boil two minutes.

_Stuffing for a Pike._

Grated bread-crumbs, herbs to taste, 2 oz. beef suet, salt, pepper, mace, ½

pint of cream and the yolks of 4 eggs; mix well, and stir over the fire

till it thickens.

_Fish Forcemeats, for Fish Soup, Stews, or Pies._

Put about 2 oz. of either turbot, sole, lobster, shrimps or oysters, free

from skin, into a mortar with 2 oz. fresh butter, 1 oz. bread-crumbs, the

yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, a little eschalot, grated lemon peel, and

parsley, minced fine; season with salt and cayenne. Break in the yolk and

white of one egg, mix well, and add an anchovy pounded.--_Another_: beat

the meat and the soft parts of a middling sized lobster, ½ an anchovy, a

large piece of boiled celery, the yolk of a hard egg, a little cayenne,

mace, salt, white pepper, 2 table-spoonsful of crumbs or panada, 1 of

oyster liquor, 1 of mushroom catsup, 2 oz. warmed butter, and 2 eggs well

beaten: make into balls, and fry of a fine brown.

{191}CHAPTER XVI.

GRAVIES AND SAUCES.

READ the directions for making stock for soup.--A cook ought never to be

without stock for gravy, as she may preserve all bones and trimmings of

meat, poultry and game; also liquor in which meat (unsalted), and poultry

have been boiled, and thus seldom buy meat expressly for the purpose.

Sauces in which cream and eggs or acids are mixed, must be constantly

stirred to prevent their curdling. Cream heated first, then stirred in by

degrees.--The greatest nicety should be observed in thickening gravy, both

for look and taste. The common method is to rub flour in butter; but the

French _roux_ is better.

The following is a list of store sauces, to keep in the house, to flavour

hashes and stews. A bottle of each lasts some time, and the cost not very

great.--The basis of all sauces for made dishes of _fish_ is soy and chili

vinegar.--A little practice and _great attention_ will enable a cook to use

these judiciously, to suit the dish, and the taste of her employers. Some

like a combination of flavours, others prefer one, or two at most.

Worcester Sauce.

Camp Sauce.

Gloucester Sauce.

Harvey's Sauce.

Oude Sauce.

Reading Sauce.

Tomata Sauce.

Lopresti's Sauce.

Essence of Shrimps.

Oyster Catsup.

Walnut Catsup.

Mushroom Catsup.

Chili Vinegar.

Universal Sauce.

Essence of Anchovy.

Essence of Lobster.

Eschalot Vinegar.

Tarragon Vinegar.

Lemon Pickle.

Gravy ought to be perfectly clear and free from fat; flavoured, to suit the

dish it is intended for; and always served hot; if in a tureen, that ought

to be covered.

{192}Some very good cooks use _brandy_ in making sauces, particularly for

ragouts; _sugar_ also.

_White Roux._

Melt slowly 1 lb. of good butter in a little water, then stir in 1 lb. of

fine, well dried flour; stir till as thick as paste, then simmer it a

quarter of an hour, stirring all the time, or it will burn. It will keep

two or three days. The common mode of browning soup and gravy with burnt

sugar is not so good as brown flour, but the browning is prepared thus: put

¼ lb. of fresh butter with ½ lb. of lump sugar into a saucepan, shake it

often, and when of a clear brown bottle it for use.

_To Brown Flour._

Spread flour on a plate, set it in the oven, or before the fire, and turn

often, that it may brown equally, and any shade you like. Put it by in a

jar for use.

_Brown Roux._

Melt butter very slowly, and stir in browned flour; it will not require so

long as to cook white _roux_, because the flour has been browned. Will keep

two or three days. When you use either of these _Roux_, mix the quantity

you wish (a table-spoonful for a tureen of soup), with a little of the soup

or gravy quite smooth, then use it.

The basis of most English sauces is melted butter, yet English cooks do not

excel in making it, and the general fault is deficiency of butter.

_To Melt Butter, the French Sauce Blanche._

Break ¼ lb. of good butter in small pieces, into a saucepan, with 3

table-spoonsful of sweet cream, or milk, milk and water, or water alone;

dredge fine dried flour over, hold the saucepan over the fire, toss it

quickly round (always one way) while the butter melts, and becomes as thick

as very thick cream; let it just boil, turn the saucepan quickly, and it is

done.

Butter for oysters, shrimps, lobsters, eggs, or any {193}thickening

ingredient, should be made rather thin, and if to be rich, a great

proportion of cream. If for catsup or any flavouring ingredient, melt the

butter with water only, and stir the ingredients in, by degrees, just

before you serve it.

_To Brown Butter._

Toss a lump of butter in a frying-pan, over the fire, till it becomes

brown. Skim, then dredge browned flour over, stir round with a spoon till

it boils; it ought to be quite smooth. This, adding cayenne, and some

flavouring vinegar, is a good fish sauce.

_Parsley and Butter, or Maitre d'Hotel Sauce._

Tie the parsley in a bunch, and boil it in salt and water, 5 or 10 minutes,

according to its age, drain it, cut off the stalks, mince very fine, and

stir it into melted butter.

The English Housekeeper: Or, Manual of Domestic Management Containing advice on the conduct of household affairs and practical instructions concerning the store-room, the pantry, the larder, the kitchen, the cellar, the dairy; the whole being intended for the use of young ladies who undertake the superintendence of their own housekeeping · 第 35 / 39 章

Wash and cut open, then take out the meat from the bones of two large