OVER THE SIERRAS.
Sierra is the Spanish word for 'saw' and also for 'mountain,' referring
to the notched outline of the mountains as seen against the sky.
[Illustration: MINING CAMP IN NEVADA.]
My main object now was to push on to Sacramento. At Kelton, in Utah,
where I remained only a few hours, I was still seven hundred and ninety
miles from my destination. Stock is extensively grazed here and cattle
shipped to the Pacific coast in very large numbers. Leaving Kelton, I
rode thirty-three miles to Terrace, a small settlement in the midst of a
desert; thence to Wells in the adjoining State of Nevada.
Nevada belongs to the "Great Basin," a table-land elevated 4,500 feet
above the sea. It is traversed, with great uniformity, by parallel
mountain ranges, rising from 1,000 to 8,000 feet high, running north and
south. Long, narrow valleys, or canyons, lie between them. The Sierra
Nevada, in some places 13,000 feet in height, extends along the western
boundary of the State. The only navigable river is the Colorado, but
there are several other streams rising in the mountains and emptying
into lakes which have no visible outlet. Lake Tahoe is twenty-one miles
long, ten miles wide and fifteen hundred feet deep. Although it is
elevated 6,000 feet above the sea level, the water of this lake never
freezes and has a mean temperature of 57 deg. for the year. Nevada has its
hot springs, some of which have a temperature of two hundred degrees.
A heavy growth of timber, particularly of pine, fir, and spruce, covers
the eastern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, many of the trees attaining
enormous size. There are numerous alkaline flats, and extensive sand
plains, where nothing grows. The first discovery of silver ore was made
on the Comstock lode in 1859, from which more than $100,000,000 have
been taken. This has been the most valuable silver-bearing lode ever
discovered in the world, exceeding in wealth the mines of Peru and
Mexico. It is now exhausted and yields only low-grade ores.
Wells, my first resting-point in the Sierras, stands at an elevation of
over 5,600 feet, and had a population of less than 300. Farming and
stock raising are its principal industries. Formerly it was a watering
and resting-place for old emigrant travel, where pure water was
obtained--a luxury after crossing the Great Desert; and an abundance of
grass for the weary animals. Some of the wells here are 1,700 feet deep.
Stopped next for the night at Halleck, a small village--over 5,000 feet
elevation--thirteen miles from Camp Halleck, where United States troops
are occasionally stationed. Leaving Halleck after a night's rest and a
hearty breakfast of ham and eggs, I rode twenty-four miles to Elko, six
hundred and nineteen miles from San Francisco. This important town
stands at an elevation of 5,063 feet above sea-level and is on the
Humboldt River. The State University is situated here. Silver smelting
works and manufactures of farming implements were the principal
industries. One daily and two weekly papers were well supported. There
were also three large freight depots for the accommodation of the
railway business. I noticed several Indians about the town. The hot
mineral springs of Elko are considered of great value for bathing.
Population at the time of my visit, about 1,700, but the town is
destined to develop into an important city. The money paid for freights
consigned to this place, averaged $1,000,000 a year.
Leaving Elko, I pushed on for thirty miles. The pastures and meadows,
with isolated cottages, were soon passed and I reached Palisade in the
evening, a village of 250 inhabitants. Remained here for the night. For
the last two hundred miles the road had been a gradual descent and the
change of temperature was very perceptible. Palisade is a growing little
place with a population of about 400 souls. It is located about half-way
down a canyon, whose rocky, perpendicular walls give it a singular but
picturesque appearance.
My mustang carried me forty-one miles next day, to Argentina, where I
rested. This village is located in the midst of alkali flats and seemed
to me an unattractive place for a residence. Continuing my journey along
the foot of Reese River Mountain, I soon found myself at Battle
Mountain, at the junction of Reese River and Humboldt valleys. The town
of Battle Mountain has several stores, a public hall, a good school
house and an excellent hotel; with increasing trade. The mountain from
which the town derives its name is about three miles south of the latter
and is said to have been the scene of a conflict between a party of
emigrants and a band of Indians.
Golconda was reached on the evening of the following day--four hundred
and seventy-eight miles from San Francisco. Here are gold and silver
mines, but the place was small and calls for no further remark.
Remounted at sunrise the following morning and rode to Winnemucca, the
county-seat of Humboldt County. The town has a fine brick Court House,
together with several stores, a hotel, shops and a school house.
Reached Humboldt the following day, where I was reminded that I was
still in the land of civilization. Stopped at the Humboldt House, a most
comfortable hostelry, its surroundings recalling my home in the East.
Humboldt is the business centre of several mining districts and has a
bright prospect before it.
Lovelocks, the next point reached, is also on the Central Pacific
Railroad. It is a grazing region, and large herds of cattle are fattened
upon the rich native grasses. Leaving Lovelocks, I found myself again on
a barren desert, covered in places with salt and alkali deposits.
Another station in the midst of this desert is Hot Springs. Pushing
forward I reached Desert, three hundred and thirty-five miles from San
Francisco. The village is rightly named, for it is, in truth, a dreary
place. I was much relieved on reaching Wadsworth, a town of about 700
inhabitants, and only three hundred and twenty-eight miles from the end
of my journey. Some large stores here do a flourishing business. There
are also several good hotels, in one of which I was soon comfortably
housed. For several days I had seen nothing but dreary, monotonous
plains, and now, almost another world opened to my view--a world of
beauty and sublimity. It was with reluctance I left Wadsworth and
crossed the Truckee River. The trees, green meadows, comfortable
farmhouses, and well-tilled fields, were pleasant to look upon, and with
the prospect of soon reaching my final destination, I rode on, and
crossed the boundary into California.
[Illustration: A ROCKY MOUNTAIN RIVER.]
Truckee, although within the State of California, is in the Sierra
Nevada, one hundred and twenty-one miles from Sacramento. The village is
handsomely built, the surroundings picturesque and finely timbered, and
there is a line of stages running to the beautiful Lakes Tahoe and
Donner.