DETROIT TO CHICAGO.
Eighty-fifth Day.
_Inkster House,_,
INKSTER, MICHIGAN,
_August 4, 1876._.
Having before me a lecture appointment at Ypsilanti, which, considering
the object I had in view through Michigan, I felt must be met, I rode
out of Detroit at three o'clock in the afternoon, somewhat reluctantly
perhaps, but within a very short time the love of travel was again upon
me, and I found myself easily reconciled. _Paul_ being in the most
delightful spirits, after four days of unbroken rest, displayed quite a
little animation as I mounted him in front of the residence of friends
on Cass Avenue, and when we had reached the open country, I gave him the
rein and allowed him to trot or gallop, as he felt inclined. The edge of
his impatience having worn off, he resumed his habitual easy canter
which made the saddle so enjoyable, and at this pace we covered fourteen
miles, reaching our destination a few minutes after six o'clock. There
was an agreeable if not decided contrast between the last
stopping-place and the present one. A hundred towers announced the
approach to a great city, as we neared Detroit; but here a solitary
spire rose against the sky, and while the Detroit River teems,
throughout its entire length with water-craft of all sorts, the almost
unknown little river that winds along between Detroit and Inkster, is at
this point as quiet as one of the untravelled streams of the North. The
Michigan Central Railway follows its shore for many miles, and as I kept
to the highway in the same direction, I could see it shining
occasionally through an opening in the trees. The waters of this river
are no doubt full of fish, as are all the streams of Michigan, and they
have besides a fine characteristic--a sparkling clearness.
Eighty-sixth Day.
_Hawkins House_,
YPSILANTI, MICHIGAN,
_August Fifth_.
A forbidding sky hung over Inkster as I took my seat in the saddle at
ten o'clock, but "Forward" was the watchword, and there was moreover a
charm in variety, for sunny skies had become rather monotonous and,
under the circumstances, uncomfortable. The dust was well laid when we
had gone only a short distance, but it rose again in a new form as
_Paul_ quickened his pace, so that we did not present a very dashing
appearance to the Ypsilantians, after sixteen miles of such travel.
[Illustration: A SUMMER AFTERNOON.]
Several times I was obliged to turn from the road, once taking shelter
under a tree and again in a woodshed. There were in town, however, those
who could excuse the appearance of a bespattered traveller--brave men
who had gone from Ypsilanti in the early days of the Rebellion, and who
had learned from long campaigning to look upon their comrades without
criticism. The brave Fourteenth Infantry started out from here under
Colonel Robert Sinclair, and joining Sherman in Georgia took a lively
part in all the movements of his army, until the fall of Atlanta;
numbering among their proudest achievements the repulse of the enemy at
Bentonville, North Carolina, where the hurriedly constructed works of
the Federals were charged and taken and then regained at the point of
the bayonet; and their part in the battle of Jonesboro, Georgia, in
1864, which was the last of Sherman's brilliant operations around
Atlanta. Many of these brave fellows perished on the field of battle,
but enough remain to keep fresh the memory of those stirring days and to
add the influence of their patriotism to the young Ypsilanti.
Eighty-seventh Day.
_Hawkins House_,
YPSILANTI, MICHIGAN,
_August Sixth_.
On the previous evening I met a large number of men of the town, who
gave me a hearty welcome, and as many of them were old soldiers, they
expressed their satisfaction with the purpose of my lecture, favoring me
with considerable enthusiasm in Union Hall.
The patriots of Michigan have many proud deeds to tell of, and are
distinguished for their gallant service. Their military leaders were
invariably zealous, and their civil leaders unceasing in their
encouragement. "We cannot consent to have one star obliterated from our
flag" was the sentiment, and with the saving of the Union at heart, the
men went into battle.
During Wheeler's repulse at Strawberry Plains in August, 1864, eight
Michigan men were left to guard McMillan's Ford on the Halston. One of
these, knowing the danger of his position, deserted, leaving his seven
companions to "hold the fort." This handful kept back a brigade under
the Confederate general almost four hours, but the Rebels crossed above
and below the ford and captured the guard. One of their number, a
farrier, was wounded, and Wheeler coming up to him began a conversation.
Finally Wheeler said, "Are all the Tenth Michigan like you fellows?"
"Oh, no," said the other, "we are mostly horse farriers and blacksmiths
and not much accustomed to fighting." "Well," said Wheeler, "if I had
three hundred such men as you, I could march straight through h--l!"
Eighty-eighth Day.
_McKune House_,
CHELSEA, MICHIGAN,
_August Seventh_.
Left Ypsilanti bright and early in order to save time, for although
nearly the middle of August, I still felt the intense heat, and the dry
dusty roads often made my daily journeys far from agreeable. For several
days the mercury ranged between 85 deg. and 90 deg., and as the route was at
this time due west, the sun nearly stared me out of countenance in the
afternoon. Ann Arbor was reached about ten o'clock, but I did not take
more than a passing glance at the University, noticing, however, that
women as well as men were among the students--a recent and wise change
in the law of the institution. The people were raising a flag over one
of the buildings as I rode through, and on it in conspicuous letters
were the names of Tilden and Hendricks.
Delhi, with no signs of a Lalla Rookh, and Scio, modest under the
dignity of its suggestive Latin name, were quaint landmarks along my
way, but I rode on a mile beyond to have dinner at Dexter. The Huron
River has its source near here, in one of a cluster of lakelets,
bordering on Livingstone and Washtenaw counties. All Michigan is covered
with these small bodies of water, which, with the streams, lie upon its
green surface like pearls in a network of silver.
Leaving Dexter, I had company all the way to Chelsea. Large flocks of
sparrows flew along, lighting upon the telegraph wires, and as I
approached they would fly away and settle again farther along, keeping
up a kind of race, which was evidently fun for them, and which greatly
amused me. It seemed as though they were tireless, and when I and my
horse reached our destination fatigued, after twenty-six miles of travel
in the sun, these strong-winged fellows were ready for another flight. I
do not doubt that they easily accomplished the return journey, for we
cannot compute the distance they can cover in a day. They are hardy
little fellows and, despite the objections urged against them, have many
admirable qualities, not the least among which is their tenacity of
purpose.
Eighty-ninth Day.
_Hurd House_,
JACKSON, MICHIGAN,
_August Eighth_.
A few minutes after seven in the morning found me in the saddle at
Chelsea. I stopped on my way at the _Herald_ office and then struck off
towards the main road, along which I cantered to Grass Lake, where I had
dinner and remained until three o'clock. This rest was thoroughly
enjoyed, the more so perhaps, as I learned before leaving Chelsea that
if my advance agents had not made arrangements for me elsewhere, the
people would have asked me to lecture here. In that event I should not
have been so familiar with the quiet charms of Grass Lake.
Probably there are those who, if they had been in my place, would have
denied themselves these halts along the way, but they would have been
deprived of a double gratification. In the first place they would miss
much of the character of the country through which they passed, the real
difference in the manners and customs of the people; and they would miss
the opportunity of assuring the credulous that they were not making a
test ride across the continent within a certain time and for a certain
reward.
News often travels incredibly fast when there are no evident means of
communication, and I was often amused by the curiosity which my advent
excited and the reasons which were whispered about in the villages
through which I passed, as to the object of my journey. Indeed many
Michiganders, from quiet haunts in their native wilds, made short
pilgrimages "to town" in order to look at one whom they fancied might
hold a proud place for having crossed the continent in so many days,
hours and seconds. My horse even was looked upon with awe, as "the
charger upon which General Washington rode during the war of the
Revolution!" But this anachronism belongs to New York.
Leaving Grass Lake late in the afternoon, it was necessary to make
better time in order to cover the remainder of the twenty three miles
lying between Chelsea and Jackson. The pace quickened. I came into the
latter city at six o'clock, and rode directly to the hotel.
Ninetieth Day.
_Hurd House_,
JACKSON, MICHIGAN,
_August Ninth_.
I clipped the following notice from the _Citizen_ of this date, as a
memento of my stay at Jackson. It chronicled the fact that:
"Captain Willard Glazier lectured last evening in the interest of
the Custer Monument Fund. His lecture was a good historical review
delivered with graceful rhetoric and at times real eloquence. The
Captain is still in the city giving his horse a rest; a noble
Kentucky Black Hawk, whom he has ridden all the way from Boston, and
whom he expects to carry him to San Francisco. He starts to-morrow
morning for Battle Creek, where he lectures on Saturday evening."
My advance agent, Babcock, went on to Battle Creek in the morning, where
arrangements were made with local committees for my lecture on the
twelfth. After he had gone I made a leisurely inspection of the city.
It was impossible to do more on account of the extreme heat.
This may no doubt be considered the centre of the closely populated
southern end of Michigan, a region dear, in times past, to the heart of
the Indian, but which knows him no more. A Chippewa chief standing upon
this soil, once said: "These lakes, these woods, these mountains were
left to us by our ancestors; they are our inheritance, and we will part
with them to no one." He knew not the strength of the pale faces who
listened; for within a few years they were ready to claim, on the same
grounds, those hills, and lakes, and mountains for their own.
Compared to the peninsula, whose mineral-laden shores are washed by
Superior, Michigan and Huron, there is the greatest contrast; and La
Hontan, making a little exploratory trip up there before anyone else,
called it "the fag end of the world." These words might still be applied
to some of the wildest northern points, but here is the very heart of
civilization.
Jackson lies in the coal fields that reach down through several of the
southern counties. This deposit is not rich, owing to the amount of
sulphur in it, and the demand is chiefly local. The Grand River divides
the town and, with the bridge that spans it, adds much to the
picturesque effect.
Ninety-first Day.
_Cooley House_,
PARMA, MICHIGAN,
_August Tenth_.
Spent the forenoon in my room at the Hurd House, Jackson, writing
letters to my wife, Major Hastings and others. In the afternoon there
was a street parade of Howe's London Circus which was a very fantastic
affair, but which seemed to be hugely enjoyed by everybody. Later in the
day the great tent was upset by a gust of wind, accompanied by a
thunder-shower, and a droll scene followed, which caused considerable
excitement. The people were left exposed with the rain coming down upon
them in torrents. So far I have seen nothing more amusing than the
country boys and girls rushing up town drenched, and for once at least
indifferent to the charms of the "big show."
The storm having passed, I ordered _Paul_ after supper, rode down to the
office of the _Patriot and Citizen_, and after a few minutes'
conversation with the editor, hurried on toward Parma, which was reached
late in the evening. The ride in the dark was cool, but somewhat lonely.
It was probably on such nights as this that young Dean, the enterprising
settler of years ago, played his nocturnal tricks upon his neighbors. He
came out to Michigan when it was a wilderness, to make his fortune by
clearing land at ten dollars an acre, and while he was drudging he
expected to have a little fun. It was his habit to work away all day
chopping trees within an inch of the falling point, and then about ten
o'clock, when the settlers were well asleep, to go out and give a blow
to the end tree, so that it would fall against the others and send them
crashing like a row of ninepins. How the old forests must have rung with
their thundering and how that plotter Dean must have relished his
mischief!
As I approached Parma, in the darkness I could see nothing about the
village to suggest that other Parma, far away under an Italian sky, but
there is a resemblance, for the European duchy and its modest American
namesake both lie in a rich agricultural region; and if I mistake not
the dull white freestone that is quarried here in such large quantities,
finds a prototype over the sea.
[Illustration: THE COUNTRY PEDDLER.]
Ninety-second Day.
_Witt House_,
MARSHALL, MICHIGAN,
_August Eleventh_.
As there was a heavy rainfall in the morning, I waited in Parma until
nearly ten o'clock, and even then was obliged to start in a
thunder-shower in order to keep my appointment for the following evening
at Battle Creek. This required no sacrifice, for, excepting the
discomfort of wet clothes, the change was agreeable. I reached Albion in
time for dinner, and immediately made myself comfortable at the hotel.
Rest and refreshment having the desired effect, I afterward took a short
stroll through the town, which I found very wide awake, although the
Methodist college, the life of the place, was still closed for the
summer vacation. In the meantime the men of the village had met, and
before I remounted, came to me and persuaded me to return by rail and
deliver the Ouster lecture on the fifteenth. Glad to do all I could for
the "Benefit Fund," I readily consented and started away with the good
wishes of the impromptu committee. Marshall, being only twelve miles
beyond, was reached early in the evening, so that before dark I had time
to get a mental picture of the place. Calhoun County has its capitol
here, and in 1853 it was looked upon as one of the most flourishing
towns in Michigan. It has not reached the predicted pinnacle of
importance, but it has a pleasant situation, some flourishing flour
mills, and is altogether a credit to the "Wolverines."
Ninety-third Day.
_Potter House_,
BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN,
_August Twelfth_.
As soon as _Paul_ was led out in front of the Witt House at Marshall, a
large crowd gathered about us; and when I had taken my seat in the
saddle, one of the number stepped forward in behalf of the townspeople
to invite me to return at a time which had previously been agreed upon
and lecture on the heroes of the Revolution. Giving them the best
promise I could, I hurried away as I had a good six hours' ride before
me.
Since the day before there had been a decided change in the weather. The
sun blazed down with almost tropical heat, drying up the roads and
making my way a veritable fiery furnace. I had a rare opportunity for
watching "Old Sol" on these solitary rides, as he appeared unfailingly
in the morning, swung through the heavens, and vanished in the west at
night. It was now harvest time, and since that early day in May on which
I started westward, I had kept my eye on him like a true worshipper,
half understanding the pagan with his devotion to Apollo, and half in
sympathy with the Indian who greets the Sun-god and weaves the splendid
symbol into pouch and canoe and mocassin. Between the hours of ten and
four particularly the heat was intense, but in other respects the day
was uneventful.
Ninety-fourth Day.
_Private House_,
BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN,
_August Thirteenth_.
On the preceding evening a full house greeted me at Stuart's Hall, where
I was introduced by a comrade of the G. A. R., Lieutenant Eugene T.
Freeman. After the lecture I met several of the leading men of the town
and later was invited to a private residence, where I was made at home
during the remainder of my stay. The Lieutenant called for me on Sunday
morning, and I accompanied him to church, meeting the pastor, Rev. L. D.
Palmer, who spoke with animation and warmth and made the service an
effective one. I enjoyed it all the more perhaps as I realized that
before many Sundays I would be on the Great Plains beyond the
Mississippi, where churches are known to be very rare. Continuing his
courtesies, my comrade friend drove me out to the favorite resort, Lake
Goguac, in the afternoon and there I had several fine views of the
surrounding country. This little incident suggests an interesting theory
concerning one of the pre-historic races who are supposed to have
occupied this section of the country. It seems that in the ancient
symbolic manuscripts of the Aztecs frequent mention is made of a land
which they called Aztelan, compounded of the symbols A. T. S. and
signifying "Lake Country," from which also their own name is derived,
making it to mean "the people of the lake country." They refer to their
former home as a country lying towards the north and giving further
details which might be descriptive of the Peninsular State--so the
theorist thinks. As a coincident, but advanced nevertheless as a strong
argument, the learned gentleman states that the Wyandots have a
tradition to the effect that hundreds of years ago, the builders of the
mounds were driven southward by invaders from the northeast; and
pursuing the magic thread, he suggests that the Aztecs were usurpers in
Mexico according to their own traditions and the corroboration of
Spanish history. If this is the case, my comrade and myself, in visiting
this pretty little lake, may have trodden upon the same soil which had
been pressed by the feet of the mysterious builders of the mounds. I am
personally a trifle sceptical on this point, and believe that the key to
this part of ancient history is yet to be found.
Ninety-fifth Day.
_Kalamazoo House_,
KALAMAZOO, MICHIGAN,
_August Fourteenth_.
On this day I passed a fine wheat-growing section in the valley of the
Kalamazoo, whose richest part is probably near the Big Village--its
namesake. This river, which drains Hillsdale, Kalamazoo, Calhoun and
Allegan counties, and is navigable for forty miles above its mouth, has,
I believe, more traffic than any one of the rivers of Michigan.
Throughout its length of two hundred miles it flows through pine and oak
forests, through the richest section of a State famed for its
agricultural products, and like the Nile, if I may so compare the relics
of a great people with those of one comparatively unknown, is looked
down upon by the silent monuments of the past. To me the comparison is
not unreasonable, for I consider the tumuli of those mound-builders
scattered over the hills and valleys of America, worthy of as much
interest and respect as the more splendid remnants of a higher
civilization.
At this point the stream is still broad and picturesque. As to its name
I am undecided. According to some it is a corruption of Ke-Kenemazoo,
meaning "the boiling pot," and according to others of Kik-alamazoo, "the
mirage river," because to the fanciful Indian the stones that jutted,
dark and wet, out of the river-bed looked like otters. The village on
its banks was settled in 1829, and after being known for two years by
the name of its first settler, Bronson, became, in 1836, Kalamazoo. It
is thoroughly alive, has a population of about 18,000, and its position
as the half-way place between Detroit and Chicago adds considerably to
its importance. I lectured here to a full house, being introduced by
Major R. F. Judson, formerly of General Custer's staff, and bearing a
high reputation as a soldier. Intercourse with one who had known the
General so well, and who held him in such loyal regard, gave me a new
insight into the life of
"That mighty man of war,
A lion in battle, and a child by the fireside."
Ninety-sixth Day.
_Albion House_,
ALBION, MICHIGAN,
_August Fifteenth_.
I came back to this place from Kalamazoo on the afternoon train and was
met at the station by R. A. Daniels, who went with me to the hotel. The
introduction at the Opera House where I lectured in the evening was made
by Captain Rienzi Loud. When I concluded, I found that the good old
custom of "passing round the hat" had not yet lost favor, for two
gentlemen, having furnished the "hat," assumed the role of collectors
and the "Fund" was within a very short time substantially increased.
When this ceremony was over a man in the audience rose and said:
"Captain Glazier! I came in after the hat was passed, but I want to give
something toward the 'Monument;'" and suiting the action to the word he
made his contribution. The whole ceremony was so suggestive of a certain
little church up in St. Lawrence County, New York, where the same custom
prevails on Sundays, that I came very near fancying myself the parson,
and if some of my comrades had not come up immediately and given me a
hearty greeting, I might have been guilty of pronouncing a benediction!
As it was quite late when I reached this point, having made twenty-five
miles since ten o'clock, there was very little time for sightseeing, but
I learned that here was the seat of Ames College, a thriving Methodist
institution admitting both men and women, and proudly referred to by the
people of Albion.
Ninety-seventh Day.
_72 West Main Street_,
BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN,
_August Sixteenth_.
Called at Captain Loud's law office at Albion in the morning, and had a
delightful chat over old times, our topic an inexhaustible one--the
battles and incidents of the late war. As this town was only a short
distance away, I was tempted to prolong the chat into a visit, finding
the Captain a cordial comrade.
According to previous agreement I lectured in the evening at Wayne Hall,
Marshall, having an introduction by Colonel Charles W. Dickie.
My horse was now in Michigan City, being treated for the sore on his
back by an old comrade, who since the war had attained quite a
reputation as a veterinary surgeon. The delay was somewhat annoying as I
anticipated trouble in crossing the Rockies, if I did not reach them
before the season was too far advanced; but there was a possibility of
disabling the animal if his affliction were neglected, and my sympathies
were with him. As the delay could not be avoided I availed myself of the
"Iron Horse" and on it made brief tours to the neighboring towns.
At this time it was very easy to agree with the theory of the fatalist
that "whatever is, is right," for by an accident I was enabled to meet
more agreeable people, to enjoy their hospitality, and to see more,
which was my chief purpose in crossing the continent.
A philosopher never worries about little hindrances, for he soon learns
that a delay often proves to be an advantage. Such was my case.
[Illustration: A MILL IN THE FOREST.]
Ninety-eighth Day.
_72 West Main Street_,
BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN,
_August Seventeenth_.
Soon after breakfast I left Marshall for Battle Creek on a freight
train, as there were no passenger coaches over the road until the
afternoon. This mode of travel, if not the most luxurious, was at least
novel, and we made very good time. Between the two places the face of
the country hardly changed in appearance. There were the same fields of
wheat and corn, and at Battle Creek evidently as much business in the
flour mills as at Marshall.
The creek, uniting here with the Kalamazoo, after a serpentine course of
forty miles, supplies the water-power and gives the necessary impetus to
trade.
I have heard that the tributary won its bellicose name through a little
difficulty between the first surveyors of public land who came to mark
this section and some Indians. The quarrel ended seriously, and, as the
tradition goes, two of the Indians were killed.
It may have been that the latter were making an attempt to hold the
ground, and that it was but one of the many similar occurrences which
were to convince the red man that he was superfluous. Calhoun County was
certainly worth making a stand for. Its soil was rich, providing
abundantly for the simple wants of the savage, and in the clear waters
of the St. Joseph and the Kalamazoo tributaries many a paddle had
descended with a deft stroke, upon the gleaming back of pike and
pickerel.
Ninety-ninth Day.
_32 Portage Street_,
KALAMAZOO, MICHIGAN,
_August Eighteenth_.
At nine o'clock I was once more on _Paul's_ back possessed of a stronger
sense of satisfaction than had been mine for many days. The truth is, I
had missed my four-legged companion sorely. Reached Augusta at noon. I
had a good old-fashioned dinner; and the horse something that was quite
satisfactory, and at four o'clock we started on again for Kalamazoo.
Soon after I left the village a thunder-shower came up, but there was a
convenient tree at hand and we were not slow in reaching it. Thinking
that all was well I again put spur to _Paul_ and we started forward,
this time coming in sight of the little village of Comstock, three miles
east of Kalamazoo, before our progress was interrupted. Off in the
distance the warning whistle of an approaching train broke in upon the
stillness; the familiar rumble of wheels followed, and in a moment more,
as it was rushing by, _Paul_ made a leap of forty feet over the
embankment. He was good enough to leave me and the saddle behind. It was
a narrow escape and I was severely stunned, but was soon up again
getting my bearings. I found my horse standing in the stream stripped of
everything except the bridle, and, with the exception of a slight trace
of nervousness in him, looking as though nothing unusual had occurred.
We reached Kalamazoo a little later, and there I wrote to Mr. Bulkley as
follows:
KALAMAZOO, MICHIGAN,
_August 18, 1876_.
J. M. BULKLEY, ESQ.,
_Secretary Custer Monument Association,
Monroe, Michigan_.
DEAR SIR:--I have the pleasure of transmitting to Judge Wing,
through Major R. F. Judson, the net proceeds of my lecture,
delivered in this place on the evening of the sixteenth instant. I
desire to accompany my gift with an acknowledgment of many
courtesies extended by the press and band of this patriotic village.
I resume my journey this afternoon and shall speak at Niles, South
Bend, and Laporte before the close of the present week. Hoping that
your brightest anticipations for the "Monument" may be most fully
realized, I remain
Very sincerely yours, WILLARD GLAZIER.
This letter I preserved, as I wished to have all the correspondence upon
the subject of the "Monument" for future reference.
One Hundredth Day.
_Dyckman House_,
PAW PAW, MICHIGAN,
_August Nineteenth_.
Had an early breakfast at Kalamazoo. Ordered _Paul_, and mounting him
rode through the Big Village to take a last look. Before leaving I
called upon Major Judson and Colonel F. W. Curtenius. The latter of whom
has had a brilliant career. Graduating from Hamilton College in 1823, he
studied law and later went to South America, enlisting in the cause of
the Brazilians. He served through the war with Mexico, was appointed
adjutant-general of Michigan in 1855, holding this office until 1861,
having received the high title of Senator in 1853 and being re-elected
to the office in 1867. The Colonel's father was a general in the war of
1812, and was for many years a member of the New York Legislature. I am
only familiar with Major Judson's military record, but his services as a
citizen are no doubt as honorable as was his career as a soldier.
With these gentlemen I entrusted the proceeds of my lecture and the
letter to Mr. Bulkley, with the request that they be transmitted to the
Monument Association at Monroe. They expressed their appreciation of my
gift in warm terms and handed me the following acknowledgments:
_August 19, 1876_.
Received of Captain Willard Glazier the net proceeds of his lecture
at this place, which sum is to be applied to the fund for the
erection of a Monument to the memory of the late General Custer at
Monroe City, Michigan. We take great pleasure in speaking of Captain
Glazier in the highest terms, not only on account of the
self-devotion he has manifested in a noble cause, but of his
indomitable perseverance and energy. We trust he will, wherever he
goes, receive the unanimous support of the citizens whom he
addresses.
F. W. CURTENIUS,
_Late Colonel U. S. Volunteers_.
I take great pleasure in fully endorsing the above, and recommending
to public confidence and support Captain Willard Glazier, in his
efforts in behalf of the Custer Monument Association,
R. F. JUDSON,
_Late Aide to General Custer_.
With an exchange of salutations and good wishes from the friends whose
courtesies I considered it an honor to receive, I left Kalamazoo for Paw
Paw. The ride between these towns was unusually trying. _Paul's_ back
was still tender, the heat was intense, and under these circumstances it
was necessary to cover fourteen miles before any refreshment could be
had.
One hundred and first Day.
_Dyckman House_,
PAW PAW, MICHIGAN,
_August Twentieth_.
This Sunday was a perfect day for rest, and I indulged in a generous
amount. Had breakfast at eight o'clock, after which I strolled through
the streets of the Van Buren County capital, finding them generally like
all other village streets, but with enough individuality about them to
make them interesting. The High School stood, with the usual dignity of
educational institutions, prominent among the neat cottages, and in the
business portion two or three newspaper offices gave unfailing proof of
local alertness.
The east and west branches of the Paw Paw River meet here and hurry on
to pay their tribute to the Kalamazoo, offering their united strength to
the business concerns which man has erected on their shores. The
outlying farms thus naturally irrigated are very rich, and give, with
the extensive lumbering interests, a very flourishing and prosperous
appearance to this section of country and a certain briskness to the
trade at Paw Paw.
On returning to my room I copied the testimonials given me by Colonel
Curtenius and Major Judson of Kalamazoo, wrote several letters, attended
to some neglected dates in my journal, and made my plans for the next
few days. It was my intention to go to South Bend by rail the following
morning, to lecture there in the evening and then proceed to Grand
Rapids, where I was announced for Tuesday. My horse was in the meantime
undergoing new and vigorous treatment which I hoped would permanently
cure him.
One hundred and Second Day.
_Grand Central Hotel_,
SOUTH BEND, INDIANA,
_August Twenty-first_.
At ten o'clock I left Paw Paw, reached Decatur at noon, registered at
the Duncombe House and then continued my journey by rail. I hardly
realized that I was out of Michigan in this town on the St. Joseph, for
the river belongs to the "Wolverines" with the exception of the
capricious South Bend, and the streets have the breadth and abundance of
shade that have won so much admiration for the cities of Michigan. It
has, besides, the Hoosier enterprise, and began to be an important
manufacturing place fifteen years ago. The first settlement began in
1831 with a handful of houses and a population of a hundred souls. It
has now reached over 10,000. Prominent among the resources to which its
growth may be attributed is its proximity to the hard-wood forests of
Northern Indiana and Michigan.
These woods have proven a bonanza to South Bend. Enterprising
manufacturers have drawn from their unfailing source; prominent among
them being the Studebaker Brothers, who have had an enviable career.
These enterprising men started in 1852 with a cash capital of
sixty-eight dollars, and a knowledge of blacksmithing which they had
acquired at their father's forge on the Ohio. Thus equipped they went
to work, turning out two wagons the first year. The present output makes
that humble beginning seem almost incredible. Studebaker's wagons are
famous and the firm controls capital stock amounting to a million of
dollars. The other notable enterprise is the Oliver Chilled Plow Works,
founded in 1853 by James Oliver, a Scotchman, who came to Indiana to
follow the vocation of an iron master, and who ultimately had the
satisfaction of exporting his manufactures to his native country.
The most distinguished citizen of South Bend at the time of my visit,
and the most prominent man in Indiana, was Hon. Schuyler Colfax, whose
career as a statesman was a singularly brilliant one. For over a quarter
of a century he had been eminent in state and national politics.
Beginning life as an editor he founded in 1845 the _St. Joseph Valley
Register_, an organ of considerable popularity and which at the time had
a strong influence in local Whig circles. His subsequent duties as
Speaker of the House of Representatives and the friend and adviser of
Lincoln, kept him out of editorial work, and later he was entirely
engrossed with affairs of state. In 1868 he was elected to the office of
Vice-President under General Grant as chief executive.
One Hundred and Third Day.
_Sweet's Hotel,_
GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN,
_August Twenty-second._
My birthday. Went by rail from South Bend to Kalamazoo in the morning;
had dinner at the latter place, and then caught an early train for
Grand Rapids, where, finding that George had made unusually good
arrangements, I spoke in Luce's Hall to one of the largest audiences
which greeted me in Michigan, General W. P. Innes, well known in Grand
Army circles and a mason of high rank, introducing me. A large and
strongly executed painting of the Battle of Lookout Mountain, stretching
across the rear of the platform, made a striking effect and gave zest to
my reference to the War for the Union.
My reception at this place was so hearty that I should have enjoyed a
longer visit; but plans already laid prevented. I knew the town itself
well, for I had previously been there. It is full of interest both on
account of its past history and its present activity. The city lies on
both sides of the Grand River and seems to be hedged in by the great
bluffs that reach along at the water edge of the valley two miles apart.
Below is a stratum of limestone rock, forming the bed of the river, for
about a mile and a half with a descent of eighteen feet causing the
rapids and supplying the water-power. Gypsum is quarried here in large
quantities, and this industry supplemented by manufactures and fruit
culture gives it its commercial importance. Perhaps its most striking
peculiarity is to be found in the large proportion of Hollanders who
swell the population. Their churches, their newspapers and their general
thrift give them a high standing in the community, and what they have
ever been accorded--a reputation for being loyal and enterprising
citizens.
In 1760 there was a very different state of things here. The Ottawa
Indians had a large village below the rapids, and there Pontiac's voice
was heard, calling upon the chiefs to aid him in his projected siege of
Detroit. Here the fur traders had their grand depot, and the
missionaries labored in the cause of Christianity; and when in 1834 the
Indian settlement began its metamorphosis, some bold prophet declared
that it would soon be "the brightest star in the constellation of
western villages." This prophecy has been more than fulfilled, for Grand
Rapids is the acknowledged metropolis of Western Michigan. In the mail
that awaited me was a copy of the South Bend _Herald_, containing a
pleasant notice which chronicled in true newspaper diction the fact that
"Captain Glazier delivered his lecture 'Echoes from the Revolution'
at the Academy of Music last evening. Promptly at eight o'clock the
lecturer, with Mr. J. F. Creed, appeared on the platform. Mr. Creed
in introducing the lecturer stated the object of the lecture to be
in aid of the Custer Monument Association of Monroe, Michigan. He
also read several letters introducing Captain Glazier to the public,
from well-known citizens of Michigan, and acknowledging receipts of
the proceeds of the lectures delivered in Detroit and Kalamazoo. The
theme of the lecturer afforded a fine field for the display of his
talents as a speaker. Possessing a fine imagination, good
descriptive powers and the real qualities of an orator, he could not
fail to please the really intelligent audience which greeted him
last evening. Probably one hour and a half were consumed in its
delivery; but the interest and attention did not flag nor tire, and
when the speaker took leave of his audience he was greeted with
several rounds of applause."
One Hundred and Fourth Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_August Twenty-third_.
Came down from Grand Rapids in the morning intending to stop on the way
at Lawton, but was carried by through the carelessness of a brakeman
who neglected to announce the stations. The town is quite an important
point on the road for its size owing to the extensive fruit orchards of
the surrounding farms. This common industry which has sprung up in all
parts of the State, but especially in the southern portion, and which
attracts more attention than anything else, is a contradiction to the
statements of those who examined the country while it was yet a
wilderness.
In 1815 the surveyor-general of Ohio made a journey through the State
and soberly reported that not more than one acre in a thousand in
Southern Michigan would in any case admit of cultivation, yet
notwithstanding that worthy's opinion, six hundred thousand peach trees
flourished in Southwestern Michigan in 1872! Surely that is a fact to be
proud of. On my arrival at Decatur I found the _Eagle_ of Grand Rapids,
containing mention of my lecture at that place as follows:
"A very large audience gathered at Luce's Hall last night to hear
Captain Willard Glazier. The speaker was earnest and impassioned,
his lecture was delivered with a force and eloquence that pleased
his hearers, and all who were in the hall went away glad that they
had been there, and ready to add to the praises that have been
bestowed on Captain Glazier as soldier, author and orator."
Such notices were gratifying--not for the leaven of flattery which they
contained, but because they helped along the cause which was to raise a
shaft to the deserving dead. For this reason I appreciated the comments
of the press and owed much to its co-operation. It is a pleasure to me
to acknowledge my indebtedness to this most powerful agent of modern
times.
One Hundred and Fifth Day.
_Dyckman House_,
PAW PAW, MICHIGAN,
_August Twenty-fourth_.
Took the Michigan Central to Lawton, and changing cars there continued
my journey to this place by the Paw Paw Road. Thinking that it might
facilitate matters, I had my saddle padded here, and had a talk with the
saddler besides, as the delay was becoming serious. At this crisis, if
man and horse could have set up a partnership, like the fabled Centaurs,
how we could have flown before the wind--or even outstripped the
Michigan Central--as we galloped across country towards the setting sun!
That old myth was an inspiration. Was it invented by some fanciful
traveller-horseman hindered on his way to Rome or Athens, by a saddler
or a veterinary surgeon?
During my forced visit, the people of Paw Paw were very kind, making the
time pass agreeably and giving me a pleasant recollection to take away.
These small social influences carried great weight with them, and helped
to bear out the universally acknowledged fact that associations are all
powerful.
It is not strange that people, rather than their abode or works,
strongly impress themselves, nor that, realizing this, they should be
cordial in their hospitality. If, then, I praise the beauty or
enterprise of these American towns, I bear witness at the same time, to
the kindness and courtesy of their inhabitants. Whether East or West,
these qualities were everywhere apparent, proving the universality of
generous feeling.
One Hundred and Sixth Day.
_Private House_,
NILES, MICHIGAN,
_August Twenty-fifth_.
Leaving Paw Paw after breakfast I went down to Lawton by rail, where I
changed cars, taking the Michigan Central to Niles, this for the purpose
of making use of the extra time that now hung heavily upon my hands. A
good proportion of the six thousand inhabitants came to Kellogg Hall in
the evening to manifest their interest in the Custer Monument and the
old Revolutionary heroes, Mr. J. T. Head giving the introduction.
Reaching Niles before noon I had ample time to look about, and to hear
from old residents something of Berrien County and their home here on
the St. Joseph.
[Illustration: NO ROOMS TO LET.]
For those who delight in searching out events from the doubtful past,
there is suggestion enough here to keep them occupied for at least a
week. Even this small town possesses records that date back to 1669,
when Pere Allouez came along down the river on a voyage of discovery and
who may have encamped on the very site of Niles, for all that the people
who live there now know. But putting this aside, it is certain that in
1700 the Jesuits had a mission a short distance south of the present
city, and that there were forts built here and there in the vicinity as
a protection against the Indians. Later, when matters were settled and
the English and French had long since withdrawn, the Reverend Isaac
McCoy came out into the wilderness with his family and established
Cary Mission, probably in sight of where the old Jesuit Mission stood.
This was in 1820. Six years afterwards a handful of cabins made their
appearance, and out of this nucleus the town of Niles was evolved. This
is a mere outline without the adornment of those pleasant little
fictions that cling about the sober history of every inhabited place on
earth, and which delight the ear of most travellers, for there may be
those who follow me who echo the sentiment of the Michigan pioneer,
"From legend and romance, good Lord, deliver us!"
One Hundred and Seventh Day.
_Private House_,
LA PORTE, INDIANA,
_August Twenty-sixth_.
Was compelled to avail myself of livery accommodations in order to meet
my evening engagement at La Porte. Rode in a hack to South Bend, and
finally reached my destination by way of the Michigan Central and
Southern Indiana roads. My advance agent, Babcock, met me at the
station, and I accompanied him to the home of a Mr. Munday, who I
discovered was the father of an old fellow-prisoner at "Libby."
I was delighted with the situation and appearance of the town. It rises
on the border of a beautiful and fruitful prairie, its northern end
bounded by a chain of seven lakes which make an ideal resort in summer,
and is at a sufficient distance from the great body of water which dips
down into that corner of the State, to enjoy a comparatively mild
climate. Its population is about 8,000, of which a good share is
employed in the foundries, machine shops and mills that make up its
business activity. The younger element is provided for in good schools,
and that luxury of modern communities--the public library--is zealously
supported. On a line with it, as a free and instructive institution, the
Natural History Association, founded in 1863, holds an honored place,
and unlike most societies of a similar character has succeeded in making
its researches of interest. In fact for its size the city has made great
progress in literary and educational directions.
One Hundred and Eighth Day.
_Jewell House_,
MICHIGAN CITY, INDIANA,
_August Twenty-seventh_.
After my lecture of the previous evening at La Porte, I took the first
train to this city--emphatically the City of Sand. Time and winds have
raised great hills of sand on every side, and from their crests one can
look off for miles over the lake, getting perhaps a deeper impression of
its vastness than from a less monotonous lookout.
These sand dunes are supposed by some to be caused by a peculiar
meteorological phenomena of currents and counter-currents acting
vertically instead of horizontally. Whatever the cause, they have made
Indiana's only port of entry a place of such striking peculiarity, that,
once seen, I doubt if it would ever be forgotten.
In the forenoon I went out on the lake in a small yacht; but finding
the little craft unequal to the heavy waves which were rushing in from
the north, I soon turned back, having gained by the venture a better
idea of the dunes and of their extent as they stretch along the western
shore.
The fact that they are "building upon the sand" gives the people of
Michigan City very little concern, probably because they know there is
_terra firma_ somewhere beneath their foundations.
Ames College occupies a site here, and the Car Shops are important and
extensive.
One hundred and Ninth Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_August Twenty-eighth_.
Taking an early train, I returned to this place in the morning, where I
had decided to remain for a few days in order to allow more time for the
treatment of my horse, and to give my brother and Babcock an opportunity
to insure a full house at Farwell Hall, Chicago, where I was announced
to lecture on the eleventh of September.
I had begun to fear that the irritation on _Paul's_ back would develop
into that most disgusting and painful disease of horses known as
fistula; and although he never showed any impatience, I had not the
heart to ride him while in this condition.
My quarters were quite comfortable at the only hotel in town, and I
thanked my stars that I was not stranded in some little backwoods place
with the choice of "the softest boards on the floor for a bed," and
other accommodations to match--a state of affairs which a waylaid
journeyman once had to face, who, with the soul of a Stoic, left on his
window-pane the comforting couplet:
"Learn hence, young man, and teach it to your sons:
The easiest way's to take it as it comes."
In fact I was doubly fortunate. No sooner had I reached Decatur than I
lost the consciousness of being "a stranger within the gates," having
been so cordially made to feel that I was among friends, and that the
cause which I had taken up in Michigan met with their hearty sympathy.
[Illustration: RURAL SCENE IN MICHIGAN.]
One hundred and Tenth Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_August Twenty-ninth_.
Met George L. Darby, an old comrade of the "Harris Light," in the
afternoon. He had noticed my signature on the hotel register, and came
at once to my room, where after the heartiest of greetings we sat down
for a long talk. Thirteen years had slipped away since the time of our
capture at New Baltimore, Virginia, which led him to Belle Isle and me
to Libby Prison, and yet as we discussed it all, the reality of those
events seemed undiminished. Kilpatrick, Stuart, Fitzhugh Lee--their
clever manoeuvring, and our own unfortunate experiences on that day, kept
us as enthusiastically occupied as though it were not an old story: but
soldiers may be pardoned for recurring to those events which, while
they impressed themselves upon witnesses with indelible distinctness,
may yet have lost their bitterness, when it is remembered that before
many years they and their stories will have passed away. To those who
indulge in the absurd belief that such topics are discussed with
malicious intent, no justification need be made.
Led on from one thing to another, I found Darby finally plying me with
questions of kindly interest about my peaceful march from Ocean to
Ocean, and anxiously asking about my horse, which I had previously left
in his care. He offered to do all he could for the animal and with this
comforting assurance took his leave.
One hundred and Eleventh Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_August Thirtieth_.
Early in the afternoon Darby called with fishing tackle and proposed
that we go out to Lake of the Woods and try our luck with hook and line.
The expedition was not successful as far as fish was concerned, but we
had a delightful boat ride and plenty of talk.
The lake, a pretty little dot lying, as its name implies, in the heart
of the woods, is an ideal spot for rest and enjoyment, and its miniature
dimensions bear no resemblance to its famed namesake of Minnesota. As we
had such poor success with our tackle I took no note of the kind of fish
that make their home within its sleepy borders, and my companion gave me
very little information. The truth is, we were more interested in our
concerns and the serious affairs outside the sport which so fascinated
Izak Walton.
One hundred and Twelfth Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_August Thirty-first_.
Albert W. Rogers, to whom I had been previously introduced, called late
in the afternoon, and invited me to drive with him, determined, he told
me, that I should see something of Decatur's surroundings. The time was
favorable for agreeable impressions. It had been a typical summer day,
with blue sky, a slight breeze and the mercury at 70 deg.; in short, just
such weather as I had encountered in this section of Michigan throughout
the month of August, and as evening approached, I was prepared to enjoy
to the utmost the pleasure which my new acquaintance had provided.
[Illustration: SPINNING YARNS BY A TAVERN FIRE.]
On the outskirts of the town one gets a view of gently rolling country
under a splendid state of cultivation, the yellow of the grain fields
predominating, and dotted here and there with farmhouses. Dark outlines
against the horizon suggested the forests of oak, ash, maple, birch and
elm, which stretch over such large tracts of Van Buren County, and which
have made a little paradise for lumbermen. Wheat, maize and hay appeared
to be nourishing; but I believe that agricultural products do their best
in the rich bottom-lands bordering the rivers. I have dwelt so
enthusiastically upon this fertile country that to say more would seem
extravagant, so I will bring my note, the chronicle of a most
delightful day, to a close.
One Hundred and Thirteenth Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_September First_.
Received and answered a large mail after breakfast, and in the afternoon
took a walk through the village. One is, of course, reminded of the
gallant Commodore whose name, once among the greatest in America, now
honors this modest Western town, and whose deeds, once upon every lip in
the young republic, are wellnigh forgotten. The question even suggests
itself as to how many of those who live here, where his name is
perpetuated, are familiar with his life and character.
His capture of the frigate _Philadelphia_, which had been seized and
held in the harbor of Tripoli in 1801, during the pacha's seizure of our
merchantmen, was said by Admiral Nelson to be "the most daring act of
the age," and his diplomacy at Algiers and Tunis and Tripoli, where in
1812 his demands were acceded to, received the applause of all
Christendom, especially because those demands included the release of
the Christian captives at Algiers and of the Danish and Neapolitan
prisoners at Tripoli, and ended, forever, the pretensions of the Barbary
powers.
After the trial of Commodore Barron for cowardice, Decatur made some
remarks which the former thought should not be allowed to pass
unnoticed, and accordingly called upon his accuser to retract them. This
Decatur refused to do, but attempted to bring about a reconciliation.
Barren refused this and threw down the gauntlet, and when shortly
afterwards the two met to settle the difficulty "with honor," both fell
at the word "Fire!"--Decatur mortally wounded. The affair was
universally deplored, for his loyal services had endeared Decatur to his
country, and when his remains were taken to the grave, they were
followed by the largest concourse of people that had ever assembled in
Washington.
One Hundred and Fourteenth Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_September Second_.
This was a great day for Decatur. With the morning came the completion
of arrangements for a Republican mass-meeting, and a rustic band from an
adjacent village arrived at nine o'clock in a farm wagon. The "Stars and
Stripes" floated majestically over the heads of the patriotic musicians,
and the people were drawn from every quarter to the stirring call of
fife and drum, eager to see their leaders and to listen to their views
upon the vital questions of the day. The "Silver Cornet Band" of
Dowagiac co-operated with the "Decatur Fife and Drum Corps," in rousing
the dormant element of the place, and, as its imposing appellation would
imply, did so with dignified and classical selections.
The political campaign which had been slumbering since the nomination of
Hayes and Tilden reached an interesting stage of its progress at this
time, and the friends and champions of the rival candidates were fully
alive to the issues of their respective platforms.
By nightfall the place was the scene of great activity, and to an
onlooker produced a singular effect. Men were collected in groups
engaged in excited conversation, torches flared in every direction,
while at brief intervals all voices were drowned in some lively tune
from the silver cornets or the fife and drum.
At an appointed hour the speakers of the evening appeared, and I noticed
among them Hon. Ransom H. Nutting and Hon. Thomas W. Keightly--the
latter a candidate for Congress from this district. The meeting closed
at a late hour, after a succession of heated addresses, and yet the
politicians of Van Buren County seemed not at all averse to continuing
their talking until sunrise.
One hundred and fifteenth Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_September Third_.
Accepting an invitation from Albert Rogers, I accompanied him to the
Presbyterian Church in the morning, where Rev. Mr. Hoyt, a young
clergyman, conducted the services and preached a very good sermon. I was
pleased by the courtesy extended me when he said, in the course of his
announcements. "I take pleasure in calling attention to Captain
Glazier's lecture at Union Hall to-morrow night. I shall be present
myself, and recommend all who wish to listen to an instructive and
patriotic lecture to be at the hall before eight o'clock." When the
service was over Mr. Rogers and I waited to have a few words with Mr.
Hoyt, who was evidently very much interested in my journey across
country and who intended to lend his influence in behalf of the
"Monument Fund." We then returned to the hotel where I passed the
remainder of the day quietly in my room.
One hundred and Sixteenth Day.
_Duncombe House_,
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_September Fourth_.
Lectured to a full house at Union Hall in the evening. My sojourn of a
week at this place and the interest felt in the effort to perpetuate the
memory of Custer, brought about the most gratifying results. Among those
who were with me on the platform were Hon. Ransom Nutting, Rev. Mr.
Hoyt, Prof. Samuel G. Burked and Albert W. Rogers. I was presented by
Mr. Nutting, after which testimonials from the Monument Association were
read by Prof. Burked, and later the following pleasant acknowledgment
from these gentlemen was handed me:
DECATUR, MICHIGAN,
_September 4, 1876_.
CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER,
MY DEAR SIR: We take this means of expressing to you our
appreciation of the highly instructive and very entertaining lecture
delivered by you at Union Hall this evening. Truly we admire your
plan and your generosity in giving the entire proceeds to the Custer
Monument Fund. Our endorsement is the expression of our village
people generally. You have made many friends here.
May success attend you throughout your journey.
Very respectfully,
S. GORDON BURKED,
RANSOM NUTTING,
ALBERT W. ROGERS.
Such greeting as this, extended to me all along my way, gives
substantial proof of the universal kindness with which I was received,
and of the spontaneous hospitality of the American citizen.
One hundred and Seventeenth Day.
_Seymour House_,
DOWAGIAC, MICHIGAN,
_September Fifth_.
There was a large gathering in front of the Duncombe House in the
morning when I mounted _Paul_ and faced westward, turning my back upon
the hospitable little village in which I had spent so many pleasant
days, and where I felt that I had indeed made many friends. Mr. Rogers
and a young man of the place, whose name I am sorry to have forgotten,
escorted me out of town intending to ride with me to Dowagiac, but an
approaching rain-storm obliged them to turn back. As I came in sight of
the village I noticed unmistakable signs of a stream which I discovered
was the Dowagiac River, a tributary of the St. Joseph, entering it near
Niles. It has been put to good account by the millers, who have
established themselves here, and in its small way adds to the blessings
of the Michigan husbandmen on its shores.
One hundred and Eighteenth Day.
_Private House_,
NILES, MICHIGAN,
_September Sixth_.
The threatening storm which led my Decatur friends to turn back on the
previous afternoon, set in soon after my arrival at Dowagiac, and I
considered myself very fortunate, as it was accompanied by the most
violent thunder and lightning that I had yet encountered.
Notwithstanding this disturbed condition of the elements, I was greeted
by a full house at Young Men's Hall, where I was introduced by Dr.
Thomas Rix.
I found a few familiar faces at Niles which I had seen during my
previous visit, and several new places of interest about the town.
Navigation on the St. Joseph ends at this point, and the narrowed stream
is spanned by a railroad bridge; and the water-power increased by a dam.
There is a brisk business carried on at the water's edge.
The mills are well supplied with grain from outlying fields, and boats
are continually plying back and forth laden with lumber, grain, flour
and fruit, which are shipped from here in large quantities. In fact, for
its size--it claims I believe, a population of something over
4,000--Niles is full of energy and ambition. I found myself on this
second visit very much interested in the place and pleased that
circumstances had made necessary a second halt.
One hundred and Nineteenth Day.
_Konnard House_,
BUCHANAN, MICHIGAN,
_September Seventh_.
Resumed my journey at two o'clock in the afternoon at a small way place
between Niles and Buchanan, where I rested at noon. The heavy rains of
the preceding days had left the roads in a most wretched condition, and
the distance was considerably lengthened as it was necessary to avoid
pools and washouts, so that it took two hours of slow riding to reach my
destination. Darby, who had gone forward with my advance agents, was the
first to greet me at this place and to inform me of the arrangements
made for my lecture in the evening.
As my day's journey had been undertaken leisurely, I started out on a
tour of inspection, after having first made comfortable provision for
_Paul_. I found a flourishing village, having a population of something
over 2,000, and prettily situated on the St. Joseph River. As I walked
in and out through its streets and looked for the last time upon the
stream, which for its romantic history and natural charm had forced
itself upon my notice so often, I could not avoid a certain feeling of
regret that this was to be my last halt in the great State through which
I had made such a pleasant and profitable journey. Pictures of orchard
and meadow, of wheat field and river, passed in review once more, and
with them the recollection of the splendid part the patriots of Michigan
bore in the War for the Union, than whom was none more loyal than the
heroic Custer, for whose memory I had spoken and received such warm
response.
One hundred and Twentieth Day.
_Private House_,
ROLLING PRAIRIE, INDIANA,
_September Eighth_.
Called for my horse at Buchanan at nine o'clock in the morning,
intending to stop at New Buffalo, but once on the road, I decided
instead to make this village my evening objective. A heavy rain-storm,
setting in early in the forenoon, compelled me to take refuge at a farm
house for about an hour, where I was initiated into the home life of the
Northern Indiana "Hoosier." I am sorry to say that during this day's
ride I encountered the worst roads and the dullest people of my journey.
Many who have resided in this part of Indiana for thirty and even forty
years are not only exceedingly illiterate, but know much less of the
topography of the country than the average Indian--and absolutely
nothing of the adjacent towns. As a consequence I was obliged to trust
to chance, which brought me to Galion, a tiny hamlet on the outskirts of
a swamp, where I had dinner. My ride thither was made under
circumstances which suggested the ride of the belated Tam O'Shanter, and
while my tortures could not compare with his, they were none the less
acute while they lasted. I was met on the edge of the swamp by a swarm
of mosquitoes--known in France as _petite diables_--who forced their
attention upon me without cessation, in spite of the fact that I urged
my horse forward at breakneck speed, _Paul's_ steaming flanks and
mire-covered legs attesting to the struggle, when we drew up in front of
Galion Inn.
[Illustration: A HOOSIER CABIN.]
One hundred and Twenty-first Day.
_Jewell House_,
MICHIGAN CITY, INDIANA,
_September Ninth_.
I considered myself fortunate, during my ride from Rolling Prairie to
Michigan City--a distance of sixteen miles--in having a sandy road
and no rain from the time of setting out in the morning until my arrival
here in the evening, but I was less favored than usual in obtaining
information.
The Presidential campaign was now at white heat and very little outside
of politics was discussed. I found, however, that the ideas of many of
the farmers were confused upon the issues. The three candidates in the
field made the canvass unusually exciting. Hayes and Tilden were, of
course, the central figures, but Peter Cooper of New York had many
staunch supporters and a few enthusiasts rallied around Blaine, Conkling
and Morton. The proprietor of the Jewell House--a Cooper man--was at
this time much more interested in the success of his favorite than in
the receipts of his hotel, and his halls and parlors were the rendezvous
for men of all parties.
One hundred and Twenty-second Day.
_Jewell House_,
MICHIGAN CITY, INDIANA,
_September Tenth_.
As it was Sunday and I had a desire to visit the most imposing
institution connected with Michigan City--the Northern State
Penitentiary, I decided to make the two miles on foot, and be there for
divine service. I found everything admirably conducted, and although
such a place is not the most cheerful in the world to be shown through,
I was well satisfied that I had gone, and was strongly impressed with
the effect of the stern hand of the law. In the afternoon a heavy rain
and wind storm came up, and I stayed in my room, the greater part of the
time, writing up my journal, and arranging for my lecture tour across
Illinois and Iowa, thereby accomplishing certain duties which fair
weather might have tempted me to neglect.
It was my intention to go by rail to Chicago on the following morning,
where I was announced to lecture at Farwell Hall.
Darby, to whom I have previously referred in connection with Decatur,
and who was acting as advance agent in the small towns and villages that
lay along my route, was with me during my stay at the Jewell House, and
we had frequent talks over our adventures in the "Harris Light"--Second
New York Cavalry--in which most of our active service was passed.
[Illustration: A CIRCUS IN TOWN.]