BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND.
Forty-fourth Day.
_North Evans Hotel,_
NORTH EVANS, NEW YORK,
_June 23, 1876._
It had been my intention to leave the "Queen City" on the afternoon of
the twenty-first, but I was delayed by my advance agents, who required
more time to arrange the preliminaries of my lectures between Buffalo
and Cleveland. Babcock went forward to Dunkirk. Farrington to Erie,
while it was decided that my brother should accompany me as far as
Angola. There were other reasons too, for a longer sojourn at Buffalo,
as it was here I met my wife for the last time during my journey, and we
had decided that it would be impracticable to meet again before my
return from San Francisco. While I anticipated a pleasant and
uninterrupted journey, she had some misgivings as to my ride across the
Plains, and tried at the last to dissuade me, but I was sanguine of the
outcome and thoroughly determined to continue, at any odds, a journey so
delightfully begun. At eight o'clock, therefore, on the morning of the
twenty-second, I returned the parting salute of my wife and friends, and
rode away. Turning into North Division street, I went out to Main, down
Main to Ohio, and out Ohio to the Buffalo Road. Soon after passing the
city limits, I saw Lake Erie, and leaving the highway rode down to the
beach and into the water, giving _Paul_ his first drink from the great
inland sea, along whose shores we were to spend several days, and in
which I and my faithful friend would doubtless quench our thirst many
times. After this little diversion I pushed forward for thirteen miles
and a half, which brought us to Lake View. After stopping here a few
moments I rode on to North Evans. In this little village of something
over a hundred inhabitants, my peace was in no wise disturbed and I was
able to pass the day in comparative seclusion, thinking over the three
days at Buffalo and anticipating the journey to Cleveland.
Forty-fifth Day.
_Angola, House_,
ANGOLA, NEW YORK,
_June Twenty-fourth_.
The ride from North Evans to Angola was most delightful, carrying me as
it did, along the shore of Lake Erie, which for the most part was
plainly seen from the turnpike. The exhilarating breeze from over the
water was in pleasing contrast to the intense heat which was felt in
Central New York, and I found my appetite sharpening under its brisk
influence. The eye had a continual feast of lake and field stretching
off on either side, and as I rode along enjoying their diverse
beauties, my only regret was that I had no companion at this time with
whom I might share the pleasure.
To my right lay the shining lake, reflecting every change of cloud and
sky; in front the Shore Road, and to my left as far as the eye could
reach, rich green fields returning the salutation of sunny June. Easy
travelling brought me into Angola in the early morning, as it is only
six miles from North Evans. Here an unfortunate circumstance is
identified with the name of the town, owing to a serious railroad
disaster that occurred some years ago, in which many lives were lost;
but one's attention is easily diverted from such thoughts upon entering
the town. Several manufactories give it a wide-awake tone, and keep a
good share of its five hundred inhabitants busy.
A small stream, known as Big Sister Creek, runs through the place and
thence winds its way to the lake, three-quarters of a mile distant. This
"Big Sister" adds a pretty touch to the matter-of-fact little village,
while its pebbly bed is a charmed spot for young Angolans. Soon after my
arrival here, J. S. Parker, formerly of Northern New York, called to see
me, and I discovered that he knew many of my old acquaintances in St.
Lawrence County. An hour was spent in pleasant conversation with him,
during the course of which boyhood days at Gouverneur and along the
Oswegatchie were discussed. I strolled about town in the afternoon,
looking for "characteristics," and in the evening lectured in the Town
Hall, the introduction being made by Leroy S. Oatman.
[Illustration: A JUVENILE PICNIC.]
Forty-sixth and Forty-seventh Days.
_Eastern Hotel_,
DUNKIRK, NEW YORK,
_June 25 & 26_.
The road between Angola and Dunkirk led me through one of the most
picturesque and productive counties of the State, which at this time
promised well for the haymakers who were busy in their ripened fields.
Hitherto the successive and varied scenes along my route had in turn won
my admiration, from the pleasant ride across Massachusetts and over the
Berkshires to the Mohawk Valley and Western New York, but these grain
fields in their golden harvest-time and the glimpses of the lake which
the tortuous course of the road now and then afforded, were certainly as
lovely as anything I had seen thus far. I had noticed that the haying
season was well advanced when I was passing through Central New York,
but owing to the retarding influence which a large body of water always
exerts over vegetation, it had been delayed here. Fourteen miles through
this pretty section of Erie and Chautauqua counties brought me to
Dunkirk, where I lectured at Columbus Hall in the evening, and was
introduced to my audience by Rev. J. A. Kummer. The following day being
Sunday, I had another opportunity of meeting this gentleman, as he
kindly accompanied me in the morning to the Methodist Church, of which
he was pastor. During the services, in which I found myself very much
interested, there was an opportune moment to study a character which I
found to be a thoroughly original one. Mr. Kummer was very
enthusiastic about the building of a new church which was much needed,
and had been trying to fire his parishioners with the zeal which he
himself felt. On this particular morning he made an appeal for
co-operation and funds, and then asked for a generous offering. The good
people of the congregation had hardly warmed to the subject, and their
response was rather feeble. Another collection was made with somewhat
better results, but still the amount was not raised by half. At last Mr.
Kummer, who no doubt believed that the end justified the means, faced
his people and said playfully, yet with evident determination, "Now I am
going to order the doors bolted, that none may leave the house until
this matter is settled!" In less than ten minutes the two thousand
dollars necessary was obtained by donation or subscription, and the
zealous clergyman looked down upon his people in happy approval. The
scene was the most unusual one of the kind which I had ever witnessed,
and I was tempted to applaud the generalship which won the situation.
Dr. Kummer afterward gave me quite a lively description of his field, in
which he had become much interested.
Lying on rising ground just within a little bay, at whose western
extremity a lighthouse stands, Dunkirk forms a natural port of refuge in
bad weather, and although in comparison with Buffalo its commercial
importance seems rather insignificant, there is quite a brisk trade
carried on by ship and by rail. Three lines centre here, connecting it
with the East and West, and with the coal and oil regions of
Pennsylvania, while the incoming and outgoing vessels are continually
plying back and forth with their valuable cargoes. In fact, as I soon
discovered, my clerical friend was not too severe in demanding a sum for
his new church which the people must have been well able to contribute.
Forty-eighth Day.
_Minton House_,
WESTFIELD, NEW YORK,
_June Twenty-seventh_.
Continued on the Shore Road from Dunkirk, having left that city at ten
o'clock in the morning. While stopping a few minutes for dinner at
Fredonia, a pretty little village three miles from Dunkirk, I saw for
the first time during my journey quite extensive vineyards. The region
is famous besides for its garden seeds, hence the people have their
share of fruit and vegetables. Found the farmers of this entire section
largely engaged in fruit culture, which seems to be a very successful
enterprise. Apples and grapes are sent away to other points, and no
doubt supply in a measure the breweries and distilleries of Dunkirk. In
looking at the handsome vines already borne down by heavy burdens, the
thought occurred to me of the corrupt uses to which they would be put,
and the havoc they would bring into human lives. The great bunches, not
yet ripe, but promising a splendid harvest, looked tempting enough to
one who had only seen them on fruit stands, or in market thrown together
in unartistic confusion.
Reached Westfield in the evening, having made twenty-two miles for the
day. Owing to my late arrival, I saw very little of the place, but
understand that it has quite large manufacturing interests, a lively
trade, two good schools for its young people: and that unfailing sign of
prosperity--a newspaper. I recalled here, another Westfield, many miles
away in Massachusetts, which I passed early in May. The two places
appeared as unlike as possible, which was due, no doubt, to one being in
the "Bay," and the other in the "Empire" State, which some travellers
will concede makes quite a difference.
Forty-ninth Day.
_Haynes House_,
NORTH-EAST, PENNSYLVANIA,
_June Twenty-eighth_.
Rode away from Westfield at ten in the morning, halting just beyond the
village at the pretty home of W. N. Allen, where I passed a very
pleasant half-hour. While looking after the interests of a large farm,
Mr. Allen and his family were very much interested in art matters, and
showed me several valuable paintings which they had recently purchased.
I was delighted to find such refinement and taste, for one is apt to
believe that where people are not in direct intercourse with congenial
elements, they are apt to lose their interest in the arts. As I looked
over their well-kept acres, and model buildings, I thought of the
influence such lives must exert over the community in which they are
passed. On my way toward North East, I passed again through a fine fruit
region, stopping for dinner at a little hamlet known as State Line.
[Illustration: A COTTAGE ON THE HILLSIDE.]
At first the prospects for the "inner man" looked rather doubtful, as I
came up to the solitary State Line House, but a few moments' search
brought me to the landlord, who was hoeing in a cornfield, and my wants
were soon supplied. By five o'clock I was riding into the borough of
North-East, where I found a number of people awaiting me. Upon
dismounting, I learned that I was announced to lecture in the Town Hall
that evening. This was a surprise, but I was ready to comply. The
village band escorted me after supper to the hall, taking a position in
front of the audience, and giving us "Hail Columbia" before, and "The
Sword of Bunker Hill" after the lecture. The hall was so crowded that
many were compelled to stand, and if hearty applause is an evidence of
satisfaction, I may consider my effort to entertain the North-Easters a
success. Captain Bronson Orton, a lawyer of the place, made the
introduction, and I afterwards had a chat with him about experiences in
Georgia, as he was with Sherman's army during its march from Atlanta to
the Sea, and was quite familiar with many of its incidents. I too had
followed the great strategist through that State, although in a very
different capacity; it having been my lot to drop into the rear of his
conquering legions during my escape from Southern prisons. The trying
circumstances which I passed through, when I evaded the guard at
Sylvania, the cautious tramps by day, and vigilance by night, in the
friendly swamps, came back after the intervening twelve years, with all
the vividness of yesterday. I related my experiences with the negroes
and, meeting with good old March Dasher, who led me rejoicing into
the Federal camp.
None of the events of those exciting days escaped my memory, and the
chance of talking them over, with one of the men who had been with
Sherman, was a rare pleasure. In the course of our conversation, we
touched upon Captain Orton's present home, which is in a very pretty
corner of the "Keystone" State, and which apparently has reached the
golden mean between business and pleasure. Its residence portion
suggests ideal comfort, while its office-buildings and stores are built
upon a substantial and convenient plan.
Fiftieth Day.
_Reed House_,
ERIE, PENNSYLVANIA,
_June Twenty-ninth_.
Upon my arrival at Erie, I was pleasantly surprised to find a letter
from Colonel F. H. Ellsworth, proposing to make me his guest at the Reed
House during my stay in that city. I gladly availed myself of his kind
invitation, and although my time there was necessarily short, I had,
through the thoughtful interest of my host, every opportunity to see the
city, and to hear something of its development.
Through Erie, Pennsylvania comes in contact with the great commercial
interests of the Lakes, and although she only holds a small share of the
valuable shore line, there is every advantage for reaping a large
benefit. The harbor is most perfect, being protected by a strip of land
known as "Presque Isle," and which, long before the persistent waves
wore away its southern end, was connected with the mainland. Two
lighthouses stand at its entrance, and guide the night traveller to one
of the prettiest ports in this part of the country, while from the
bluffs on which the town is built shine myriads of answering lights. The
streets are wide and regular and lead to many handsome homes, which they
say will bear comparison with the finest on the Lakes. Several parks
relieve the monotony of brick and stone, and add to the sightliness of
the place.
Besides her present importance as representative of her State on the
great inland seas, Erie has had her share on the page of history since
1795; among her proudest annals being the departure from her port of
Oliver Hazard Perry, who went in 1813 to meet the English in the
splendid naval action which has made his name famous. There are many
memorials of this engagement among the city's relics, which bring back
the reality of those stirring times more forcibly perhaps than the
volumes describing them.
Like Buffalo, Erie's leading enterprises are her iron works, where
stoves, machinery and steam engines are made. Large quantities of coal
and petroleum, the contributions from Pennsylvania, are sent here for
shipment, and form a good share of the varied products which make their
way through the large water channels to different parts of the United
States. Her educational system is excellent and there are nearly half a
hundred public schools, which offer quite good advantages to the
children who help make her population of nearly twenty-five thousand.
Erie undoubtedly has a bright future before her, which her rapid
increase in population since 1870 predicts, and she may, in a measure,
balance the power in the opposite corner of the State, where the "City
of Brotherly Love" reigns supreme. Having seen so much of the place as
time would allow, and heard its story from those who knew it best, I
ended the day by lecturing at the Academy of Music, Hon. C. B. Curtis
introducing.
Fifty-first Day.
_Farm House_,
SWANVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA,
_June Thirtieth_.
Passed a very busy morning at Erie attending to business correspondence
with advance agents, making notes, and with the assistance of Mr.
Farrington brought my scrap-book up to date. I called also upon a few
old acquaintances whom I had known in the East, and whose faces were a
welcome surprise at this stage of my journey. The editor of the Erie
_Dispatch_ called after dinner and spent an hour with me in a general
discussion of the incidents of my trip since leaving Boston, which had
been, however, more pleasant than exciting. In this way the afternoon
slipped by, and it was not until five o'clock that I found myself ready
to leave Colonel Ellsworth's hospitable roof. Had I not been fully
determined to make some headway before night, the cordial request of my
host that I stay longer with him might have dissuaded me at the last
from starting so late, but I resisted the inclination, and having bade
good-bye to my newly-made friends put spurs to _Paul_, who soon carried
me far beyond the city limits on the road to Swanville. I had long
since learned that in a case of this kind, the charms of hospitality,
like those of Circe, were fatal to the interests of him who heeded. Made
the eight and a half miles to Swanville in fair time, and was soon
settled for the night at the home of John Joseph Swan, an old resident
and pioneer, after whom the hamlet is named.
Fifty-second Day.
_Farm House_,
SWANVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA,
_July First_.
Was compelled to remain in this place two days on account of my lecture
appointment for Girard, and was singularly fortunate in having cast my
lot with the Swans, who were untiring in their efforts to make my stay
agreeable. The head of the family was eighty-three years old and quite
patriarchal in appearance. From him I learned something of their
military record, which reaches over quite an extended period of our
country's history, and which makes a noble background for the peace and
comfort they now enjoy. Mr. Swan's father was a captain of militia in
pioneer days, and his son Andrew was a lieutenant-colonel of cavalry
during the late war. He was a participant himself in the war of 1812,
and both he and his father were pensioners. In fact they have grown up
with the country, having shared its trials and its triumphs. Mr. Swan
was one of the earliest settlers in Erie County, and although more than
half a century had passed since he had settled there, this veteran still
remembered and vividly described the scenes and events of those
stirring times. He saw the first steamer launched on the lake and said
it was regarded as an evil omen by the Indians, who called it "The
Devil's Canoe" and who ran frightened from the shore at its approach.
His stories were most amusing, and their personal narration gave them a
freshness which was untiring. While I was with these people, I had the
pleasure of meeting Miss Eliza Swan, a talented daughter of the family,
who had just returned from Paris, where she had been studying under
Jules Le Fevre, the well-known painter. Among her better productions I
was especially pleased with her portrait from life of an old man, for
which she was awarded a medal by Peter Cooper.
Fifty-third Day.
_Central House_,
GIRARD, PENNSYLVANIA,
_July Second_.
Took a walk with Mr. Swan over his farm in the morning, looking at his
stock and grain and quietly admiring the thrift and enterprise
everywhere apparent. The comfort and refinement of these country homes
had made a strong impression, and I became quite enthusiastic over the
American farmer. My host took especial pleasure in showing me the
changes which half a century had wrought upon his premises, and which
certainly were surprising. It was difficult to realize that the fields
which we were viewing had, within the memory of my companion, been
transformed from a wilderness to cultivated acres. While strolling over
the farm, the sky became clouded and by noon a torrent of rain deluged
Swanville. Owing to this caprice of the elements, I was unable to leave
until three o'clock in the afternoon. Made the six miles and a half
between the two places in easy time. As I rode into town I was greeted
by the Girard Brass Band, which, while it amused me, rather surprised
_Paul_, who during our "triumphal procession" to the Central House did a
little "dancing," greatly to the delight of the onlookers.
After lecturing at the Town Hall in the evening, where I was introduced
by Jacob Bender, editor of the _Cosmopolite_, I was serenaded at my
hotel by the indefatigable band, which certainly made me feel welcome. I
was sorry that the limitations put upon my time by appointments ahead
allowed me so small an opportunity to meet the people, and get a better
idea of their occupations. I should have liked to visit the lumber and
brick yards, which are the chief enterprise, but was obliged to content
myself with only a "cursory glance," as our newspaper friends say. The
soil of the region is almost entirely composed of clay, and is thus
peculiarly adapted to the manufacture of brick.
Fifty-fourth Day.
_Fisk House_,
ASHTABULA, OHIO,
_July Third_.
A bright sun and clear blue sky gave promise of an exceedingly pleasant
day, as I seated myself in the saddle at Girard at eight o'clock.
Before leaving I bade good-bye to Mr. Farrington, who had been with me
from Boston, but who now found it necessary to return to his home at
Elmira, New York, owing to business interests there. I regretted
exceedingly his retirement, as he had rendered invaluable service in
connection with my lectures, and had been a most genial and
companionable fellow-traveller, whenever circumstances brought us
together along the route.
I found the people everywhere engaged in preparations for the Centennial
Fourth, which, as it was to be one of our greatest holidays, was to be
celebrated with unusual enthusiasm. Owing to the excitement which
prevailed, and to the fact that almost every man and woman was employed
upon some active committee, I decided to waive my lecture at Ashtabula,
and enter into the public demonstration. The Rev. Mr. Fisher, who had
intended introducing me to my audience at this place, came to see me at
the Fisk House soon after my arrival, and talked of the arrangements
that were being made for the morrow. In the evening I called upon Rev.
L. W. Day and had a chat with him about Ashtabula. The town is the
capital of Ashtabula County, and lies at the mouth of a small river of
the same name, in the midst of a good farming district. The principal
products are wheat, maple sugar and those of the dairy. The chief
interests of the town are its manufactures, which I understand are quite
important.
As in all such towns, the population is varied. The combination of the
farming and manufacturing elements gives a decidedly picturesque
aspect.
Fifty-fifth Day.
_Farm House_,
NEAR PAINESVILLE, OHIO,
_July Fourth_.
This day has been indeed the greatest holiday in the history of the
United States. Such grand preparations and such lavish display have
probably never been witnessed before on this continent, and although I
chanced to be in a comparatively obscure corner of the Republic, I found
the prevailing sentiment as deep as though I were in one of the great
centres. I doubt if there was sleep for anyone during the preceding
night, for the wildest excitement was manifested, and the dawn of the
Centennial Fourth was presaged by the booming of cannon, the blowing of
engine whistles, the ringing of bells and discharge of firearms of every
conceivable calibre and description.
The townspeople were stirring at an early hour, and although I had found
very little rest, I was in the saddle by nine o'clock. A thunder-shower
overtook me about noon, thanks to the generous use of gunpowder, and I
took shelter under a tree, from whence I was invited to dinner by Daniel
Flower, a neighboring farmer. With him and his family I passed a
comfortable hour, and then moved forward in the direction of
Painesville.
[Illustration: HAYING IN NORTHERN OHIO.]
Toward evening I reined up in front of an inviting-looking house--a
feature which the traveller soon learns to observe--and asked one of the
farm hands if Mr. Lee was at home. Before the man had time to answer, a
young girl came running down the path toward the gate, saying, "Are
you Captain Glazier?" I acknowledged that I was that humble person,
whereupon Miss Lee asked me to dismount and "come right in," while Jack
would take care of the horse. Her father and mother had gone to
Cleveland in the morning, to celebrate the Fourth, and were expected
back the same night. The little lady insisted upon my stopping
overnight, and bustled about with all the importance of a housewife in
preparing supper. I naturally felt some hesitation in accepting her
invitation to remain all night, but she insisted that I be her guest,
and made every effort to amuse me. After tea, I was ushered into the
parlor, where my hostess soon joined me, saying that I was her "very
first caller" and that she was going to entertain me "the best she knew
how." Suiting the action to the word, she took her place at the piano,
and began to play some national airs suitable to the occasion; but as
the evening slipped away I began to feel the effects of the day's ride,
and begged to be allowed to retire. This, however, the young lady seemed
at first disinclined to do, asking me to wait for her father and mother,
but finally I insisted as gently as possible; so she showed me to my
room herself, wishing me a hearty good-night. Dawn was ushered in by the
rattling of milk pans and the creaking of a pump under my window, so,
knowing that further rest was out of the question, I dressed and went
downstairs, where I met Mr. and Mrs. Lee. I found them very kindly
people, and knew that their daughter had inherited from them her share
of good nature. That odd little miss was up at the first cock-crow, and
was waiting to bid me good-morning. As I was about to mount _Paul_
after breakfast, she asked the privilege of a ride on him, and, bounding
into the saddle, galloped down the road with the grace of an Indian.
When she bade me good-bye at the gate, where her father and mother were
standing to see me off, she asked me in her unsophisticated way to
remember her as my "Centennial girl," which I solemnly promised to do,
and as I looked back from the road I could see her waving her
handkerchief as a parting salute.
Fifty-sixth Day.
_Farm House_,
NEAR WICKLIFFE, OHIO,
_July Fifth_.
Starting rather late from Painesville, a town just beyond Mr. Lee's, and
riding leisurely during the day, I found it necessary to keep to the
road until dark, in order to place myself as near to Cleveland as
possible, before halting. Reached Willoughby, the seat of a Methodist
College, nineteen miles east of Cleveland, just before sundown, where I
was tempted to stay over night, knowing that to ride farther would be
gloomy and uninteresting, but in my eagerness to reach the "Forest
City," towards which I had looked for several days, I pressed forward.
[Illustration: JUST OUT OF CLEVELAND.]
As there was no hotel at Wickliffe, I passed through the little hamlet
of that name and secured lodgings at the farm house of Thomas Lloyd, an
old settler of Lake County, and a very large land-owner. He told me the
history of his pioneer life in this section of Ohio, and of his start in
the pursuit of a fortune, which gave me a bit of the early history of
Ohio from another standpoint. It may seem odd that during the "flying
visits" which I sometimes paid to these small places, there was
opportunity to hear anything about them, but country folk are accustomed
to early rising, and as I learned the art, years ago, of waking with the
birds, I very often joined my host, and had a chat with him before
breakfast. The settlement near which I stayed overnight is six miles
west of Willoughby, which brought me within thirteen miles of Cleveland.
It boasts of nothing more than the necessary blacksmith shop and
"store," and "looks up to" its big neighbor with due reverence. It lies
in the fertile county of Lake, a northeastern corner of Ohio, measuring
some two hundred and sixty square miles, of which a large portion is
covered with forest, and whose surface is generally hilly or
undulating.