CHAPTER XI._The workwoman's guide

KNITTING.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Knitting is the art of uniting worsted, or any other material together,

without the aid of a loom. This work is applied to stockings, socks,

boots, coverlids, and various other articles of wear or ornament, and

is generally done with worsted, cotton or silk, but as the latter

material properly belongs to fancy work, it will not be often mentioned.

KNITTING PINS OR NEEDLES,

As they are variously called, are made of iron or brass, for common

use, and steel for best. They can be procured of every size and

thickness, and are sold in sets, each set containing four pins. These

sets cost from ⅛_d._ to 2_d._ each, according to the metal and size.

Ivory, bone, whalebone, steel, rosewood, ebony, and cane pins, of a

larger size and thickness, are employed for knitting coverlids, boots,

carpets, and other thickly knit articles. These are sometimes twenty

inches, or two feet long, and have a knob at one end to prevent the

stitches from slipping off. Of these pins two or three form the set.

For schools, common pins may be procured from a carpenter or turner,

for 2_d._ a set, whereas the former are charged at from 1_s._ 6_d._ to

8_s._ or 9_s._ the set.

MATERIALS FOR KNITTING.

Worsted, lambs’ wool, or fleecy wool, is used for stockings, and other

wearing articles.

Cotton is employed for curtains, window blinds, bags, fringe, &c.

These materials are always sold by the weight; one pound contains

sixteen ounces.

The expense of wools and worsteds varies so materially, that an average

price can hardly be stated. It has been sold as low as at 2_s._ per

pound, and as high as 6_s._ 6_d._ Crimsons are the most expensive

colours, greens and oranges the next, blue is more moderate, and black,

grey, purple, and pepper and salt are the least expensive, always

excepting white, which is the lowest of any.

Grey and white common worsted contain a good deal of turpentine, and

are often preferred by the poor on that account.

Black should be well soaked in strong vinegar, to set the colour, and

prevent its coming off on the hands while being knitted.

Worsteds are more suitable for men’s and women’s stockings.

Wools for children’s stockings, or for muffatees, ruffs, and other

lighter articles of wear, which should be soft and warm.

All worsteds and wools should be carefully wrapped up in the coarsest

brown paper, which also contains turpentine, and keeps out the air.

They should be often looked to, as the moths are apt to get at them and

spoil them.

Worsteds in use should be neatly wound in small balls, about the size

of an orange.

ON KNITTING STITCHES.

In knitting, keep the ball in the pocket, or in a bag hung to the arm,

or a basket, and do not allow it to roll on the table or floor, to get

dusted.

There are a great variety of knit stitches, all of which, are founded

on the following kinds, beginning with casting or setting on stitches,

all of which will be explained in due order.

CASTING ON STITCHES.

This must be first learned, and signifies putting the stitches on the

pins, in order to begin working.

There are two or three modes of doing this.

Hold the worsted at about a quarter of a yard from the end, together

with one of the pins in the right hand, between the finger and thumb.

Next, hold the worsted at some distance from the end, and lay it across

the palm of the left hand, holding it down with the fingers while you

make a loop, by bringing the worsted before the thumb, and carrying it

outside and back again, between the thumb and first finger into the

palm, taking care to cross it over the other worsted; with the right

hand put the pin under the loop, and take it off from the thumb upon

it, drawing the end of the worsted tight at the same time. Continue

making loops with the left thumb, and taking them off on the right hand

pin, until the proper number of stitches be set on.

Another and a better mode, is that of knitting on the stitches. For

this purpose, after making the first loop with the left hand thumb, as

above, and slipping it off the thumb upon the right hand pin, continue

as follows:—

Take another pin in the right hand, and put it under the loop on the

pin, making this right hand pin lie across under the left. Next, put

the worsted between the two pins, and press the end of the right hand

pin upon the worsted, till it is brought through the first stitch,

and forms a loop upon the pin. Take this loop off upon the left hand

pin, by putting the end of it under the loop, which gives it a kind of

twist; continue thus increasing the stitches on the left hand pin until

the proper number is formed.

THE COMMON KNITTING STITCH.

After setting on the number of stitches in the manner before mentioned,

begin to knit them off from one pin to the other, as follows:—

Hold the pin with the stitches on, in the left hand; with the right

hand, put the other pin under the first loop, making the pin lie across

behind the left hand pin, while with the first finger, the worsted is

drawn in front between the pins. Then with the end of the right pin,

press this worsted till it is brought through the stitch in the form

of a loop upon the right hand pin. Keep it on the right pin, taking

the loop quite off from the left pin. Continue knitting the stitches

off the left upon the right hand pin, till the row is completed, when

change pins, putting the one with stitches in the left hand, and the

disengaged pin in the other.

DUTCH COMMON KNITTING.

This is another mode of knitting the common stitch, and is more simple,

and more quickly done than the usual way.

Hold the pin-ful of stitches in the left hand, as also the worsted,

which should be wound once or twice round the little finger, to keep it

firm, and allowed to pass over the first finger to the pins. The right

hand pin is then simply passed through the stitch, and catching the

worsted outside, draws it through, and forms the loop on the right pin,

and so on.

THE TURN OR SEAM STITCH.

This is also called back-stitching, or pearling, but when alluded to

hereafter, it will invariably be called turn-stitch. It is simply

bringing the worsted between the needles, and taking up the loop, by

putting the needle into the stitch from behind, and knitting it off by

putting the worsted round the pin, and pressing the loop through the

stitch.

WIDENING.

This is increasing the number of loops, and is generally done in the

middle of a pin-ful of stitches.

There are various modes of widening. One is, that of simply passing

the worsted in front, before knitting the loop, and is termed making

a stitch. Another, is effected by taking up the cross loop, below the

next stitch belonging to the row before, and afterwards continuing the

plain knitting.

In some cases where the widening occurs at the end, in order to form

a gradual slope, knit the last stitch without taking the loop off the

pin. Again put the right hand pin into the loop, but in order to give a

twist to the worsted, put it in under the side furthest from you, and

knit it off.

NARROWING.

This is decreasing the number of stitches, by simply knitting two

together.

SLIPPING A STITCH.

This is merely taking the stitch or loop off one pin upon the other

without knitting it.

FINISHING OFF.

In finishing off a piece of knitting, knit two stitches from off the

left hand pin, upon the right, and then with the left pin, take up the

first stitch and put it over the second, slipping it off the pin at the

same time, so as only to leave the second stitch upon it. Knit a third

stitch, and slip the second loop over it also off the pin, and so on

till the last stitch or loop remains on the left hand pin, and none on

the right; when, after breaking off the worsted, pass the end through

the loop and draw it up, and the whole is completed.

Observe, in finishing off, not to pull the worsted too tight, as the

end will curl up, and look puckered.

WELTING.

This is usually knit at the tops of stockings, socks, muffatees, &c.

and tends to confine the article to the leg or arm of the wearer, from

its tendency to contract.

Knit three or more plain stitches, and the same number of turn stitches

alternately for several rows, observing always to knit one row or bout

exactly to correspond with the other, so that the welts or ribs are

regular.

BINDING.

In binding, or joining two stitches together, as for instance, in the

heel of the stocking, lay the two pins together in one hand, and with a

third pin knit a stitch, first off one pin and then off another, after

which, put the first knit stitch over the second, slipping it off the

pin as in fastening off, already described. Continue knitting a fresh

stitch to it, first from one pin and slipping the loop over it, and

then from the other. Pass the worsted through the last loop and the

whole is completed.

There are many terms used in knitting which ought to be familiar to all

knitters, as they are constantly introduced into knitting receipts.

The following will be described, but there are probably many more

peculiar to different counties.

A Row is one line or length of knitting.

A Rib is two rows, or a row forwards and backwards, and is

sometimes called a turn.

A Bout is one round of knitting, as in stockings.

A Welt is that part ribbed at the top of the leg of the stocking.

A Seam is that open line in a stocking, formed by a continuation

of turn stitches.

FANCY STITCHES.

The following are the various fancy stitches commonly employed by

knitters for useful articles:—

No. 1. Double knitting.

2. Another ditto.

3. Another ditto.

4. Open hem.

5. Honey-comb stitch.

6. French stitch.

7. Fantail stitch.

8. Imitation net-work stitch.

9. Open cross-stitch.

10. Insertion-work, or Berlin wire.

11. Plain open stitch.

12. The crow’s-foot stitch.

13. The chain stitch.

14. The embossed hexicon stitch.

15. The common plat.

16. The elastic rib.

17. The rough-cast, or huckaback stitch.

18. The embossed diamond stitch.

19. The ornamental ladder.

20. Imitation double knitting.

21. The knit herring-bone stitch.

22. The purse stitch.

23. The lace wave stitch.

24. The herring-bone bag stitch.

25. An improved open stitch.

26. The shawl stitch.

27. The cross-stitch pattern.

28. The curb stitch.

29. The two coloured rib-stitch.

30. A beautiful diamond stitch.

31. The raised French stitch.

32. The two coloured chain stitch.

33. The rug stitch.

34. The nondescript.

35. A new stitch

36. The new muffatee stitch.

KNIT FRINGES.

No. 1. Fringe.

2. Fringe.

3. Shawl fringe.

4. A beautiful fringe, and border.

5. A very pretty fringe.

6. Fringe for curtains.

No. 1.

DOUBLE KNITTING.

This is very suitable for blankets, coverlets, comforters, socks,

sleeves, ruffs, shawls, &c. There are three kinds of double knitting;

the first is as follows:—

Put on an even number of stitches,

Knit a few plain rows,

Then begin a fresh row as follows:—

Knit a stitch,

Pass the worsted between the needles in front;

Take off a stitch, putting the needle inside the loop;

Pass the worsted back again,

Knit another stitch, as before, and so on.

No. 2.

DOUBLE KNITTING.

Another mode is as follows:—

Put on an even number of stitches,

Knit the first stitch plain, putting the worsted twice over the pin,

Pass the worsted between the needles before,

Slip a stitch,

Pass the worsted behind again.

Again knit a stitch, putting the wool twice over the pin, and so on.

In the next row, knit those stitches that were slipped, and slip those

which were before knit.

It is advisable to knit the first three or four stitches plain in every

row, as it confines it down neatly at the sides.

No. 3.

DOUBLE KNITTING.

This is worked on the wrong side, and is particularly simple, and

far quicker work than the former method, but, as when completed, it

requires turning inside out, it must be knit with plain knitting at the

ends or sides, which to some, is an objection.

Set on an even number of stitches,

Proceed at once, without knitting a plain row,

Put the worsted in front of the pins before beginning to knit,

observing always to keep it so.

Turn the first stitch,

Take off the second stitch, and so on throughout.

No. 4.

OPEN HEM.

Use very fine pins and sewing cotton,

Set on any number of stitches, divisable by four,

Slip the first stitch at the beginning of each row,

Knit the second stitch,

Put the cotton over the pin, to make a stitch;

Knit two loops together,

Continue by knitting the next stitch,

Making a stitch, &c. &c., as before.

No. 5.

HONEY-COMB STITCH.

This is very applicable for shawls, purses, muffatees, and other fancy

articles.

Knit the first stitch,

Put the cotton over the pin, to make a loop,

Knit two stitches together,

Continue making a loop, and knitting two stitches together,

till the row is completed.

Knit the second row plain, and so on, every other row

honeycomb-stitch.

No. 6.

FRENCH STITCH.

Set on the stitches in fours, leaving two over.

Turn the first stitch,

Turn the thread back,

Knit two stitches together,

Bring the thread in front,

Knit a stitch, thus forming a new loop,

Bring the thread again in front,

Turn a stitch, one rib or pattern is then complete.

Begin the next in a similar manner, by turning the thread back, and

knitting two together at the end of the row, turn the thread, and knit

the last stitch.

No. 7.

FAN-TAIL STITCH.

This is very suitable for gloves, mits, purses, &c.

Set on fourteen loops,

Make a loop, by putting the cotton over the pin,

Knit a loop,

Make a loop, and so on,

Knit each of the two last plain,

Then narrow at the second and third stitches, both at the beginning

and ending of each row, until it is reduced to the original number of

fourteen stitches.

No. 8.

IMITATION NET-WORK STITCH.

Set on any even number of stitches you please.

Knit a row plain,

Commence the next row by putting the free pin on the wool, and twisting

the wool round it, by bringing it from behind over the pin, and putting

it behind again, then knit two loops together, putting the pin into

the one nearest to you first, then twist the wool round the pin in the

manner described above; knit two together, and so on to the end. Every

succeeding row is knit in the same manner.

No. 9.

OPEN CROSS-STITCH.

This is generally knit with two colours (suppose blue and brown); each

colour is worked along two rows alternately. In changing colours,

observe that the fresh colour crosses from under the last one, which

prevents its leaving a hole.

The first row of each colour is turn-stitched the whole way, and the

second row of each colour is worked as follows:—

Knit a stitch,

Make a stitch,

Slip a stitch,

Knit two stitches together,

Draw the slipped loop over the two knit loops. Continue to the end of

the row, and then commence two rows with the fresh colour.

This is a very suitable stitch for a shawl-handkerchief, round which,

another pattern of knitting should be made.

No. 10.

INSERTION-WORK, OR BERLIN WIRE STITCH.

If knit with fine thread, and finest needles, it forms beautiful

insertion-work for collars, capes, frocks, &c.

If knit with large pins, and lamb’s wool, it is useful for comforters

and shawls, and looks very pretty.

Set on an even number of stitches,

(If for insertion-work, eight, every four stitches forms one pattern.)

Knit three plain rows or more,

Take off the first stitch,

Knit a stitch,

Knit off two together,

Make a stitch,

Again knit a stitch,

Knit off two together,

Make a stitch, and knit the last stitch,

and so on to the end of the row,

Every alternate row should be knit plain.

No. 11.

PLAIN OPEN STITCH.

Set on an even number of stitches.

Knit two plain rows; then,

Knit the first stitch,

Pass the worsted in front,

Knit two together, thus forming a new stitch,

Again bring the worsted in front,

Knit two together, thus forming a new one,

And so on, till the last stitch, which is knit;

Knit two more rows, and so on.

This is very suitable for shawls and caps.

No. 12.

THE CROW’S-FOOT STITCH.

This is very suitable for shawls, in which case, it should be begun at

one of the corners, and added to at every row.

Otherwise set on any number of stitches divisible by three, allowing

one over, to begin with.

After knitting one plain row, begin the pattern as follows:—

Knit the first stitch,

Make a stitch,

Slip a stitch,

Knit two plain stitches,

Put the slipped stitch over the two plain ones,

Again make a stitch,

Slip a stitch, and so continue to the end.

For the next row, turn every stitch.

No. 13.

CHAIN-STITCH.

Set on thirteen loops,

Knit two plain rows,

Knit three stitches plain,

Bring the worsted in front,

Turn seven stitches,

Turn the worsted back, and knit the remaining three stitches,

Knit the next row plain,

Continue as above, till you have knit in all sixteen rows;

Next knit three stitches plain,

Take off the four next stitches upon a third pin,

Knit the next three stitches from behind the third pin, so as

entirely to miss it, drawing the worsted very tight, so

as to connect the pins close together;

Then, knit the four stitches off the third pin, and the twist is

completed. Knit the remaining three and begin to form a fresh

link, by knitting three stitches,

Turning seven,

Knitting three, and so on; making sixteen more rows before you

twist again.

No. 14.

THE EMBOSSED HEXAGON STITCH.

Set on any number of stitches, divisable by six,

Knit a row plain,

Turn a row,

Knit a row plain,

Knit four stitches, and slip two to the end of the row,

Turn a row, slipping the stitches that were slipped in

the preceding row,

Knit a row, still slipping the two stitches,

Turn a row, slipping the same two stitches,

Knit a row, slipping the two stitches,

Turn a row, slipping the same stitches,

Turn a row, taking up every stitch,

Knit a row plain,

Turn a row.

Commence the next pattern by turning a row, slipping the fifth and

sixth stitches, taking care that the slipped loops come in the centre

of the previous pattern, continue alternately knitting and turning a

row, remembering to slip the two stitches, till you have done six rows,

when knit a row, taking up every stitch and so on.

No. 15.

THE COMMON PLAT.

This is very pretty for coverlets, muffatees, &c.

Set on any number of stitches in threes.

After knitting a plain row, begin as follows:—

1st Row. Knit three plain, and turn three all along.

2nd Row. The same as above, observing to continue from where you left

off in the last row, so that if the row ended in turning, you should

begin with plain stitches and so on.

3rd Row. Observe as above.

These three rows form a succession of squares, of alternate inside and

outside knitting.

4th Row. As the work of the squares should now cross or sit alternately

with those above, like the squares of a chess-board, the first three

stitches should be the same as those with which the last row is

completed.

Continue turning and knitting plain every alternate three stitches, and

varying the squares every three rows, till the whole is completed.

No. 16.

THE ELASTIC RIB.

This is very suitable for cuffs and garters, as it clings or contracts

to the form.

Set on any number of stitches,

Knit a row,

Turn a row,

Knit two rows,

Turn a row,

Continue knitting two, and turning one row to the end of the work.

No. 17.

THE ROUGH-CAST, OR, HUCKABACK STITCH.

Set on any uneven number of stitches.

Knit plain and turn stitch alternately, observing to begin every

row with the plain stitch.

This is very pretty, and firm, and suitable for borders.

No. 18.

THE EMBOSSED DIAMOND.

Set on any number of stitches, divisable by seven,

Knit a row plain.

Turn a stitch, then knit five, and turn two alternately to the end,

Knit two, then turn three, and knit four, alternately to the end,

Turn three, then knit one, and turn six alternately,

Knit a row plain.

Turn two, and then knit two, and turn five alternately,

Knit two, then turn four, and knit three alternately,

Knit six, and turn one alternately,

Knit one, and turn six alternately,

Knit five, then turn three, and knit four alternately,

Knit three, then turn two, and knit five alternately,

Knit a row plain.

No. 19.

THE ORNAMENTAL LADDER STITCH.

Set on your stitches in elevens,

Knit two plain stitches,

Knit two together, again knit two together, draw the first loop

over the second, knit one plain, and then knit two together,

knit two more together, draw the first loop over second,

knit one plain, and so on to the end.

In the second row, turn two, pass the thread twice over the pin, turn

two, and so on.

In the third row, knit two, pass the thread twice round the pin, knit

two, and so on.

Continue alternately knitting one row and turning one, till it is the

length required, observing always to slip the loops, formed by passing

the thread twice round the pin off, without knitting them.

No. 20.

IMITATION DOUBLE KNITTING.

Set on any even number of stitches.

Turn a stitch, and knit a stitch alternately.

As the stitch that was knit before is now to be turned, commence every

row with a turn stitch; this makes both sides alike, and though single,

gives it the appearance of double knitting.

No. 21.

THE KNIT HERRING-BONE STITCH.

Set on any number of stitches, allowing three stitches for each

pattern, and one besides at each end.

Knit a plain row,

Take off the first loop,

Knit two stitches together in turn stitch,

Make a stitch by passing the wool before, and knitting one,

Turn two stitches together,

Again make and knit a stitch, and so on,

Every row is begun and continued the same.

No. 22.

THE PURSE STITCH.

Set on ninety or an hundred stitches,

Knit the first stitch,

Make a stitch by putting the silk over the pin,

Slip a stitch,

Knit a stitch,

Turn the slipped stitch over the knit one,

Repeat this till the row is finished,

Knit the next row in turn stitch,

Repeat as above, alternately knitting a row in turn stitch,

till the whole is completed.

No. 23.

THE LACE WAVE STITCH.

Set on an even number of stitches,

Slip the first stitch,

Knit a stitch,

Make a stitch (by putting the cotton over the pin),

Knit two stitches together to narrow,

Again knit a stitch,

Make a stitch, and narrow till the row is complete,

Knit the next row plain,

Next row, knit two plain stitches, make a stitch,

narrow two stitches in one, knit a stitch, make

a stitch, and narrow to the end of the row,

Next row, knit plain,

Next row, knit three plain stitches, and continue as above,

by making a stitch, narrowing two stitches in one,

and knitting a stitch,

Next row, knit plain,

Next row, knit four stitches, and continue as above,

by making one, narrowing two, and knitting one stitch.

Next row, knit plain,

Next row, knit five stitches plain, and do as above,

Knit two rows plain.

This forms one wave or pattern.

Continue as above to any length required; this, knit with fine thread,

forms beautiful lace for night-cap borders.

No. 24.

THE HERRING-BONE BAG STITCH.

Set on your stitches by fours,

Knit two plain stitches,

Turn the silk twice over the pin to make a long stitch,

Knit two stitches together,

Repeat this till the whole is finished.

No. 25.

AN IMPROVED OPEN STITCH.

Knit the first row plain,

Knit the second row like the usual open stitch,

by knitting the first stitch, putting the worsted

in front, to make a stitch, and knitting two stitches

together, and so on;

Next knit one row plain,

Turn-stitch three rows, and

Knit one row plain,

This is particularly suitable for muffatees, bags, and reticules.

No. 26.

THE SHAWL STITCH.

This is very suitable for shawls, caps, and handkerchiefs, knit with

soft wool, and large pins, and for mittens, with fine black thread or

silk, and is done as follows:—

Set on an even number of stitches,

Knit the second row in the Hole-stitch,

the next row in Turn-stitch, and so on.

No. 27.

THE CROSS-STITCH PATTERN.

This is very suitable for bags, purses, gentlemen’s caps, &c.

Set on an even number of stitches,

Put the wool over the pin, and make a stitch,

Put the needle into two stitches, and knit them backwards,

and so on.

Observe to throw the wool properly over the pin, as, if wrongly

twisted, it is apt to make two stitches.

No. 28.

THE CURB STITCH.

Set on an even number of stitches,

Knit a plain row,

Next row, knit the first stitch, after which continue as follows:—

Bring the wool in front, turn a stitch, put the wool back,

knit a stitch, putting the wool twice over the pin.

Observe, in the next row, the long stitch is the turned stitch.

No. 29.

THE TWO COLOURED RIBBED STITCH.

This is a very pretty stitch for cuffs, mits, or muffatees, and should

be done in two colours, or one colour with white.

Set on an even number of stitches, and continue knitting,

letting every other stitch be of one colour, and the

alternate loops of the other.

Observe, in crossing the worsteds, always to keep the

white wool uppermost.

No. 30.

A BEAUTIFUL DIAMOND STITCH.

Set on the stitches in threes, and one over,

Slip off the first stitch. Then knit all along as follows,

always keeping the wool in front,

Slip one stitch, holding the loop, as if going to turn-stitch,

Put the wool over the pin, to make a loop,

Knit two turn stitches in one.

Next row, it is to be turn-stitched all the way, excepting that

the formed stitch of the last row is always to be slipped,

taking hold of it as in turning.

After the beginning of this alternate row, there will be always two

single turn stitches, and one slipped stitch all along.

No. 31.

THE RAISED FRENCH STITCH.

Set on an even number of stitches,

Turn the wool over the pin to make a stitch,

Knit two together, and so on to the end of the row:

Next row, turn-stitch the whole way,

Next row, knit plain,

Next row, turn-stitch, making in all three plain rows;

Repeat the whole as above.

If this is for a shawl, increase one stitch at two loops from the end

of the needle, always at the same place, once in every rib.

No. 32.

THE TWO COLOURED CHAIN STITCH.

This is a very pretty stitch, and is suitable for muffatees, bags, and

mats. It is knit with two wools, coloured and white, and is done as

follows:—

Set on the required number of stitches, and knit in the coloured wool

alternately with the white. To form the chain-like appearance, observe

to cross the wool, with which the loop is being knit, over the wool of

the last loop. Observe to knit off the white loops with the coloured

wool, and the coloured loops with the white wool.

No. 33.

THE RUG STITCH.

This is knit with fine pins and worsted of a common kind, and the rug

or woolly part is composed of soft thick wool.

Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which,

begin with the wool, knitting first one plain stitch, and then pass the

wool between the pins, round the second or third finger, according to

the depth required, and in front between the pins. Knit another plain

stitch, and again carry the wool between the pins, round the fingers in

front, and make another stitch, and so on to the end of the row, when

cut off the wool, and knit the row back with the worsted, which secures

the fringe.

Lay the wool between the pins again, after knitting the first plain

stitch, and continue as before, making a loop of fringe between each

plain stitch, and so on. After knitting the number of rows required,

cut the fringe and open the wool as much as possible, taking care not

to pull it out.

No. 34.

THE NONDESCRIPT.

Set on any number of stitches, knit as follows,

always slipping the first stitch;

Make a stitch, by putting the wool over the pin,

Knit a stitch;

Next row, knit two stitches together all along the pin;

Continue as above.

No. 35.

A NEW STITCH.

Set on any number of stitches,

Put the wool over the pin to make a stitch,

Turn a stitch, and so on:

Next row, turn-stitch, taking two loops at

once the whole way.

No. 36.

THE NEW MUFFATEE STITCH.

Set on any even number of stitches,

Slip the first stitch, then knit as follows:—

Put the wool in front of the pin, then take up a loop

of the former row on the pin, then turn a stitch,

take up a loop as before, turn a stitch as before,

and so on;

Next row, turn-stitch all along, taking two loops at once.

No. 1.

FRINGE.

Set on eight stitches,

Knit a plain round,

Slip the first loop,

Double the wool, and put the knot over the pin; knit two loops, put

the wool behind, knit one, bring it in front, knit two, turn it

behind, and knit one; turn it again in front, and knit the last loop,

then knit a plain row. In the third row, slip the first loop, put the

little finger of the left hand through the fringe, and pass the wool

for the next loop, round the finger also, then turn it over the pin,

and knit the row as before.

No. 2.

ANOTHER FRINGE.

This is very suitable for doyleys and pincushion covers; in which case,

it must be knit with cotton.

Set on twelve stitches,

Knit a stitch,

Make a stitch, by putting the cotton over the pin,

Knit two stitches in one,

Continue this till the row is finished.

Proceed onwards until a strip of sufficient length is made to go round

the doyley or article for which it is intended. Then fasten off six of

the stitches, letting the other six drop off your pins, and unrove it

down the whole length of the strip, to form the fringe. Sew it on with

coarse white cotton.

No. 3.

A SHAWL FRINGE.

Cast on five stitches,

Slip off the first stitch,

Knit the second stitch,

Make a stitch,

Knit two stitches together,

At the last stitch, twist the cotton three times over the pin and the

second finger, or over the pin and a mesh of the proper depth of the

fringe, and knit it firmly on. Let every alternate row be plain.

No. 4.

A BEAUTIFUL FRINGE AND BORDER.

Set on an even number of stitches of any depth sufficient to allow for

the fringe, and for the head of the fringe, and knit thus:—

Make a stitch, by laying the wool over the needle. Put the needle in

two loops, and knit them in one, just contrary to the usual way.

Continue thus, row after row, until a strip of sufficient length is

done. Fasten off, letting four, six, eight, or ten stitches drop off

the pin to unrove for the fringe.

No. 5.

A VERY PRETTY FRINGE,

For mats, handkerchiefs, mits, &c.

Use fine pins and common worsted for knitting the fringe, which should

be of thick handsome wool.

Set on as many stitches as are required for the length of the piece of

fringe.

Knit one plain row,

Next row, knit one stitch,

Lay the wool (either singly, or doubly, or even trebly, if required

very full) between the pins, from the front towards the back, round the

second or third finger, according to the depth required, and back again

through the pins in front. Knit the next stitch, and again carry the

wool behind round the fingers, to make another loop of fringe, and when

brought forward between the pins, make another stitch and so on, to the

end of the row, after which, knit a plain row back, to secure it more

firmly, knitting alternately with the wool and worsted, fastening off

as you go along.

No 6.

FRINGE FOR CURTAINS.

This is a useful and very pretty fringe for toilet tables, curtains,

pincushions, &c., and is made of cotton, wool, worsted, silk, or any

other material; the first, however, is more useful, because it washes

well.

Set on ten stitches, and knit every row as follows:—

Slip the first stitch,

Knit the next stitch,

Put the cotton over the pin twice,

Turn two stitches together,

Turn the cotton back,

Put the cotton or wool, for the fringe, over the pin, leaving the ends

behind. Knit one stitch, turn the wool in front, knit two stitches,

turn the wool behind, knit two stitches, again bring the wool in front,

and knit the remaining stitch. Knit a row plain, taking the wool with

the stitch when you come to it, to make it quite firm.

The fringe should be cut in pieces of the proper length, and three or

four taken together, to be knit in at once.

STOCKINGS.

Knit stockings are considered so much better than woven ones for

wear, that it is advisable for all servants, cottagers and labourers

invariably to adopt them, as the former will last out three or more of

the woven, which are more suitable for the higher classes.

The children of the poor should always be taught to knit, and each

member of a family ought to have a stocking in hand to take up at idle

moments, by which means many pairs might be completed in the year.

It is difficult to make very correct scales for different sized knit

stockings, as so much depends on the quality of the worsted and of the

pins, as also on the knitter, as some persons work much slacker than

others, so that two stockings knit with the same pins and worsted, may

be of very different sizes when knit by different persons.

The following proportion for a general rule is good, and may prove

useful, though to tolerably experienced knitters, it is recommended to

procure a pair of stockings that fit very well, and to knit others like

them, which can easily be done by means of constantly measuring and

comparing them with the pattern.

GENERAL PROPORTIONS FOR STOCKINGS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 21.

Ascertain the proper breadth of the stocking.

From the top to the bend of the knee is one square,

or the length of the breadth.

From the bend of the knee to the beginning of the calf

is one square or breadth.

From the beginning to the end of the calf, is one square

or breadth.[2]

[2] In this square, we narrow as many stitches as are contained on

_one_ of our three pins, narrowing always twice on the same row,

placing one of them on each side of the seam stitch. We calculate

the number of rows intervening between each narrowing, by dividing

_half_ the number of stitches contained on one pin, with the number of

stitches contained on the three, and abide by the result.

For the small of the leg, one square or breadth; for the heel, half a

square; for the narrowing on each side of the instep, one quarter of

a square; from the heel to the narrowing of the toe, one and a half

square; for the narrowing, a quarter of a square.

Observe, that the squares always relate to the breadth of the stocking,

at the time the next square is begun.

In making up stockings, see that the pins and worsted are suitable to

each other; observe also to knit regularly, and let but one person knit

each pair, otherwise they will not match or look well.

Stockings are knit with four pins, three of which hold the stitches,

and the fourth serves to knit with.

After setting on the number of stitches required, dividing them equally

on the three pins (always observing, however, that one pin has an

uneven number), commence knitting round and round, according to the

scale, taking care always to make the middle or odd stitch in the one

pin a turn-stitch, which forms a kind of seam down the stocking, and

serves as a guide, by which the place of narrowing is more easily

ascertained.

After welting several rounds or bouts, continue knitting and widening,

or narrowing, according to the scale, observing to widen or narrow

invariably on each side, within one loop of the seam-stitch.

For a description of welting, widening, narrowing, binding, &c., refer

to knitting stitches and terms.

After knitting the heel and foot, the stitches are put upon two pins

instead of three, and the narrowing begun and continued; after which it

is fastened off, and the stocking completed.

SCALE FOR STOCKINGS.

Observe these are the proper proportions for stockings, when knit with

coarse worsted and pins.

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

| |of 4 |of 6 |of 9 |of 12|of 14 |

| | | | | | |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|extra for the seam-stitch in the | 16 | 18 | 20 | 25 | 30 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|Stitches altogether, including the | 49 | 55 | 61 | 76 | 91 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|Knit rows for welting | 8 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 |

|Plain rows, or two squares | 49 | 55 | 61 | 76 | 91 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|on each side of the seam-stitch, | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 15 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|Stitches altogether | 33 | 37 | 41 | 51 | 61 |

|Plain rows to the heel | 16 | 18 | 20 | 25 | 30 |

|Stitches upon one pin for the heel | 17 | 19 | 21 | 27 | 31 |

|Knit rows for the heel | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 16 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|Narrowings on each side the seam | 2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|Pick up loops on each side of the | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 16 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|Widen one row every third stitch on | 4 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 8 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|Narrow at the two corners of the | 24 | 27 | 30 | 37 | 45 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

|half on the other, and narrow till | 6 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

| |of 16|of 18| Small or |Large.|

+------------------------------------|-----+-----+-----------+------+

|extra for the seam-stitch in the | 33 | 35 | 42 | 45 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|Stitches altogether, including the | 100 | 106 | 127 | 136 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|Knit rows for welting | 12 | 16 | 20 | 24 |

|Plain rows, or two squares | 100 | 106 | 127 | 136 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|on each side of the seam-stitch, | 16 | 17 | 21 | 22 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|Stitches altogether | 67 | 71 | 85 | 91 |

|Plain rows to the heel | 33 | 35 | 42 | 45 |

|Stitches upon one pin for the heel | 35 | 37 | 43 | 47 |

|Knit rows for the heel | 18 | 19 | 22 | 24 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|Narrowings on each side the seam | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|Pick up loops on each side of the | 18 | 19 | 22 | 24 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|Widen one row every third stitch on | 9 | 9 | 11 | 12 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|Narrow at the two corners of the | 49 | 52 | 63 | 67 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

|half on the other, and narrow till | 11 | 11 | 12 | 12 |

+------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+

SOCKS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 22.

Socks are often worn by men and boys of all classes, and are made

similarly to the stockings, excepting that the knitter begins

immediately after the two squares knit for stockings; welting, of

course, several bouts.

GARTERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 33.

These are chiefly worn by females, and are merely narrow strips of

knitting, of three-quarters of a yard long, and a nail, more or less,

wide.

They are made of worsted, cotton, or soft wool; the latter is most

elastic and pleasant.

For garters, set on from twelve to twenty, or even thirty stitches,

according to the fineness of the material.

Knit backwards and forwards till of the proper length, when fasten off.

Some persons prefer a loop at the end; for which purpose, when near

the end, divide the stitches equally upon two pins, and knit each pin

about ten ribs, after which connect them together by binding them in

fastening off.

Garters are sometimes knit by putting the material, which is fine,

twice round the pin at every stitch, letting the pin be very thick.

Garters are sometimes ribbed, at others knit, in a succession of

squares of different patterns.

BABYS’ SOCKS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 24.

Set on thirty loops. Knit three ribs.

Narrow each end. Knit three ribs.

Narrow each end. Knit one row plain.

There are now eleven ribs and twenty-four loops on your pin. Put twelve

on another pin, and add fourteen. Knit three ribs, and narrow at the

toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the

toe. Narrow at the heel every other row three times. There ought to be

thirteen ribs. Add fourteen loops to the twelve left on the other pin,

and do the same. Join the two together and sew up the sock.

BABYS’ SOCKS, ANOTHER KIND.

Set on twenty-four stitches. Widen at the beginning of each row, till

there are twenty-eight stitches. Knit ten ribs, narrow at the heel,

twice at one end. Take twelve on one pin and add twelve, make another

side the same, and fasten off. Add fourteen stitches to the twelve that

were left, widen each end every rib till there are thirty. Knit ten

ribs and fasten off.

BABYS’ SOCKS OR BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 25.

Set on twenty-two stitches.

Knit three ribs, widening at the beginning and end of each rib.

Knit five ribs, widening at the toe end of each rib.

Stitches altogether, thirty-three.

Knit three plain ribs,

Take off eleven stitches from the toe end upon one pin, and

fasten off the rest.

Knit six ribs, widening every rib at the toe,

Knit six ribs, narrowing every rib at the toe,

Add twenty-two stitches to the eleven already on the pin,

making thirty-three.

Knit three plain ribs,

Knit five ribs, narrowing at the end of each rib,

Knit three ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end of each rib,

and fasten off.

This forms the shoe part of the sock, and is knit of some pretty

colour, as green or blue.

For the sock or upper part, pick up twelve stitches from the front

or top of the shoe, and knit with white wool.

Knit nine ribs, connecting it with the sides, by picking up the

stitches at each edge, as you knit along

Pick up the remaining coloured stitches on each side,

Knit three plain ribs, and then one row widened at the beginning

and end alternately, for four times;

Then knit two ribs, after which, one rib more of coloured work,

and fasten off,

Sew up the seams, and the sock is completed.

BABYS’ SOCKS, OR SLIPPERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 26, 27.

This is a very pretty kind of sock, and from being worn in two colours

with a kind of sandal, resembles slippers worn over stockings.

Set on twenty stitches of coloured wool,

Widen one at the beginning and end of each rib, four times,

Widen at the beginning, or toe end of each rib, for two ribs,

Knit two plain ribs,

Knit nine stitches at the toe end, and fasten off the

remaining ones,

Knit the nine stitches, two ribs plain,

Widen at the beginning, or toe end of the three next ribs,

Knit three plain ribs,

Narrow at the beginning, or toe end of the next three ribs,

Knit two plain ribs,

Knit the next row, which should consist of nine stitches,

and add twenty-one stitches,

Knit two plain ribs,

Narrow at the toe end of each rib, for two more ribs,

Narrow at the beginning and end of each rib, for four times,

and fasten off,

Pick up thirteen stitches, in the front of the boot,

Knit eight plain stitches in white wool,

Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,

Knit one plain rib,

Pick up the stitches on both sides at the top of the boot

on the same pin,

Knit two plain ribs in coloured wool, and continue afterwards

in white wool,

Narrow at the beginning and end of the next rib,

Knit two plain ribs,

Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,

Knit three plain ribs,

Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib,

Knit three plain ribs,

Knit another rib in coloured wool, fasten off, and put a little

ribbon bow in front of the boot.

Sew or lace up the square in front of the boot all round.

CHILD’S LONG SOCK.

PLATE 21. FIG. 28.

This may be knit either of two colours, or entirely of white.

Set on thirty-four stitches,

Knit sixteen rows, turning every other stitch to form a welt,

Knit one rib of coloured wool and two of white, alternately

four times,

Knit two ribs white,

Take fifteen stitches on one pin, and add fifteen stitches,

Knit twelve plain ribs in coloured wool,

Knit three ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end of each row,

and fasten off;

Take up the fifteen stitches which project beyond the leg,

and which form the top or front of the boot,

Knit twelve plain ribs,

Knit three plain ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end

of each row, and fasten off.

The loose slit in front must be connected to the shoe part, by knitting

two stitches in the centre, forming a hole on each side, through which

the ribbon is drawn. Sew up the sock and it is completed. Sometimes the

boot has a little white intermixed with the colour; in which case, the

coloured wool is simply laid inside, and brought forward when wanted.

CHILD’S FIRST STOCKING OR SOCK.

PLATE 21. FIG. 29, 30.

This is commonly made with fine cotton, letting two rows be knit in

stocking, and one in garter or turn-stitch, alternately the whole way.

Set on twenty-two stitches to each of three pins,

Knit round and round for fifty-four rows,

Put thirty-three stitches on one pin for the heel,

Knit thirty-three rows, and bind the heel,

Pick up the remaining stitches, so as to have

twenty-two again on each pin,

Narrow once at each end of the heel for five rows,

Knit seventy-three rows,

Bind down the toe and fasten off.

THE RIBBED BOOT.

PLATE 21. FIG. 31.

Set on twenty stitches on each of the three pins,

Knit a square,

Put thirty stitches on one pin, and the remaining thirty

on another pin,

Continue knitting the thirty stitches on the pin for the instep,

towards the toe, which is generally about two squares,

Then narrow at each end till but five stitches remain on the pin,

then fasten off;

Next, take the other thirty stitches, and knit a square for the heel

and fasten off;

Knit two gores to put in between the front and heel on each side,

for which purpose,

Set on twenty stitches, and narrow at the beginning of every other

row till it ends in a point,

Set in the gores,

Next, make a sole by setting on fourteen stitches, or any number,

according to the width of the

foot. Knit it straight along, till of a sufficient length,

Sew the sole upon the boot, and the whole is complete.

This boot is generally ribbed by knitting two stitches and

turning two.

THE OVER SHOE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 32.

This is very convenient to slip over a satin shoe, or as a house shoe.

Set on thirty-four stitches.

Knit a plain square, double it, and sew it up one side

to form the heel; sew up about three inches to form

the instep, and pucker in the end for the toe.

THE SNOW-HEEL.

PLATE 21. FIG. 33.

This is very useful in slippery weather for persons to put over their

shoe or boot heels, to prevent their falling. It is particularly good

for old people and children.

Set on sixty-six stitches on one pin,

Knit five ribs,

Finish off four stitches on each side, and continue knitting

the middle part,

Knit fourteen ribs,

Knit twenty-five stitches, then narrow; knit six, again narrow,

and then knit the remainder.

Continue narrowing every alternate row twice in the row,

reducing the six centre stitches every time, so that at the

sixth narrowing there are none of them left. Fasten off.

LITTLE NIGHT BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 34.

These are made by knitting a piece of six nails long, and a nail and a

half or more deep. This, when fastened at the ends, is sewed to a sole,

which is made by knitting an oval piece.

For this sole, set on about six stitches and knit on,

widening at both ends, till about fifteen stitches

are upon the pin; continue knitting till nearly of

the proper length, and then begin narrowing down to

the six stitches again. Fasten off.

The sides of the boot are generally ornamented by knitting

four rows of garter-stitch of one colour, and then four

rows of stocking-stitch of another, and so on throughout.

About thirty stitches may be set on the pin.

A VERY PRETTY OVER SHOE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 35.

Set on thirty-six stitches on each of three pins;

Knit one plain round, after which knit fifty rows (more or less,

according to pleasure) in the welt of three, by which means

it is ribbed up and elastic, and will fit almost any person’s

foot.

If for a child of five or six years old, set on eighteen stitches

to each pin.

SOCKS FOR INVALIDS, OR THOSE WHO HAVE COLD FEET.

These are very useful for those who have cold feet, either to wear in

bed, or slip over the stockings when dressing; and as they set quite

close to the foot and ankle, they give a great deal of warmth.

They are best made of floss wool of five or six threads, and about two

and a half ounces of wool is sufficient for each pair. Whalebone or

wooden pins are used; they should not be very thick, considerably less

than a drawing pencil.

For women’s full sized socks cast on thirty-six stitches on three

needles, and knit ten plain rows, then turn the first stitch of the

next row; after this, for the thirty following rows, narrow thus—the

two last loops of the last needle must be knit as one; turn the first

loop of the next row, and take the two next loops off at once, taking

hold of the loops at the back instead of in the usual way. After this

you begin to welt, and the depth of the welting is regulated by fancy.

VERY PRETTY KNIT BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 36.

Commonly called Derby jail boots, at which place the female prisoners

are employed in making them.

SCALE FOR KNIT BOOTS.

+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+

| ———————— |of 8 |of 10|of 12|

+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+

|Loops set on one pin | 14 | 16 | 18 |

| | | | |

|Widen every rib on one end till the | 17 | 19 | 21 |

| | | | |

|Knit plain ribs | 2 | 3 | 3 |

| | | | |

| number of loops are | 14 | 16 | 18 |

| | | | |

|Number of loops to be added, half of which | | | |

| on a fresh pin immediately joining it | 20 | 22 | 24 |

| | | | |

| | | | |

|Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 7 | 8 | 9 |

| | | | |

| | | | |

|Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 1 | 2 | 2 |

| | | | |

| side three or four stitches from | 10 | 11 | 12 |

| | | | |

+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+

| ———————— |of 14|of 16|of 18|Woman|

+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+

|Loops set on one pin | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |

| | | | | |

|Widen every rib on one end till the | 26 | 28 | 31 | 33 |

| | | | | |

|Knit plain ribs | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |

| | | | | |

| number of loops are | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 |

| | | | | |

|Number of loops to be added, half of which | | | | |

| on a fresh pin immediately joining it | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 |

| | | | | |

| | | | | |

|Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 |

| | | | | |

| | | | | |

|Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 |

| | | | | |

| side three or four stitches from | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |

| | | | | |

+-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+

These boots may be knit in two wools, white and coloured. They should

have leather soles sewed on, to make them more durable. They should

have fringe, and worsted platted strings.

NIGHT SOCKS.

Coarse lamb’s wool and thick pins.

Set on thirty-six stitches, knit ten ribs, put eighteen on

one pin, and knit twelve ribs; narrow each rib at the

heel twice, making in all fourteen ribs. The other side

the same. Pick up loops on both the side pieces; for the

toe, knit ten ribs; narrow every rib on each side, so

that the narrowings shall be on the sides of the foot, and

not at the bottom; seven narrowings, and finish in a point.

VERY NEAT NIGHT SOCKS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 37.

Set forty-six stitches on one pin,

Knit twenty-seven plain ribs,

Add twenty stitches, setting them equally on three pins,

Knit twenty-six plain bouts or rounds,

Divide the stitches, letting half of them lie on one pin,

and the other half equally divided between two pins.

This arrangement makes it easier to knit than on two pins,

and, at the same time, distinctly marks the half for the

two narrowings;

Narrow on each side of the pin with half the stitches.

SQUARE NIGHT BOOTS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 38.

Set on forty loops, knit the two first stitches plain,

the rest double knitting till it is a square bag;

fasten it off, making it to open at the top; large

pins and coarse; lamb’s wool.

KNIT SOLE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 39.

This is a sole to put within a shoe or boot, and is made in double

knitting and sewed to a piece of stiff muslin of the proper shape, and

bound all round with ribbon.

For a good average size, set on fourteen stitches, knit in double

knitting for twenty-three rows, and fasten off. The knitting must be

brought into shape by taking it in with the galloon, when wanted to be

narrowed.

KNEE CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 40.

Set on one pin forty-seven stitches,

Knit plain seventeen ribs,

Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, widen, knit a stitch,

widen again, and knit the remaining twenty-three stitches.

Every alternate row, widen at each of the above widenings exactly

in a straight line, so that the increase of stitches falls

in the centre, forming a gore or half diamond.

Knit sixteen plain ribs,

Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, narrow, knit

thirty-six stitches, narrow again, knit the remaining

twenty-three stitches.

Every alternate row, narrow in a straight line, over each of

these two narrowings, so as to reduce the stitches between

by degrees to a point again, at the end of thirteen ribs.

Knit thirty-one plain ribs;

Next row, fasten off four stitches, and knit the rest of the row;

knit a plain row;

Next row, fasten off four more stitches, and knit the rest of

the row; knit a plain row;

Next row, same as above, and then fasten off,

and sew up the seams.

KNIT GLOVES, LARGE SIZE.

Put eighteen stitches on a pin, leave about thirteen rows open (by

knitting backwards and forwards instead of round) for the thumb; knit

round till you come to the fingers. Put half the stitches on one pin,

and half on the other. Take nine stitches off each pin for the first

finger, and add eight between the first and second finger to make a

gore, then there will be twenty-six stitches on your pins altogether;

knit two rows plain, narrow every other row at each end of the eight

loops you added, for three times on each side; there should now be

twenty stitches left. Knit plain till the finger is long enough. Then

narrow twice at each end of the finger, leaving one stitch between the

two narrowings on each side. Do this every other row three times, when

there will be eight loops left, divide them on two pins and bind them

down. For the second finger, take six stitches off each pin, and pick

up eleven stitches for a gore, between the second and third fingers.

Knit two rows plain; there should then be thirty-four stitches; narrow

every other row on each side of _both_ the gores three times. There

should then be twenty-two stitches. Finish the finger like the other.

For the third finger, take six stitches off each pin, pick up ten

at the bottom of the last gore, and add ten for the new gore; there

are then thirty-two stitches. Narrow as before, and there should

then be twenty left. For the little finger, pick up ten stitches for

the gore, and the six off the two pins make twenty-two, after the

narrowings there should be sixteen stitches left. For the thumb, pick

up three stitches at the bottom of the hole, and knit backwards and

forwards, picking up an extra stitch each time, till there are sixteen

stitches on a pin, then pick up three at the top, and knit backwards

and forwards till there are eight. Join all together, and knit round;

finish the thumb as the fingers.

DRIVING MITS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 41.

These are very useful for gentlemen or coachmen, in severe weather,

being double on the out, and single in the inside.

Set on forty stitches on ivory pins, of thick soft floss wool. Knit

several rows in double knitting until half the muffatee is completed,

when knit the remainder in imitation double knitting, which is not

so clumsy for the palm of the hand, when grasping reins, &c. When

completed, sew it up, leaving a hole of a full nail for the thumb, at

half a nail’s distance from the end.

BABY’S MITTENS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 42.

Set on twenty stitches on each of three pins, and knit plain one square.

Knit backwards and forwards along two of the pins, letting every other

row be turn-stitch, for another square, and fasten off.

Knit the other pin in a similar manner for thirty rows, and fasten off.

Sew up the hand and thumb, and add a fringe or a ribbon to tie, or, if

preferred, it may be begun with a welt at the wrist.

MITTENS.

Set on twenty-two loops on each of the three pins, welt twenty rows,

knit one row plain, next row alternate _turn and plain_, third row

plain, fourth row alternate _plain and turn_, so that the plain stitch

is over the one that was turned before, and so on till you come to the

beginning of the thumb. Then knit backwards and forwards, leaving a

hole for the thumb. Then knit round again, and finish with a welt. To

make a thumb, pick up three loops at the top of the hole left, and knit

backwards and forwards, picking up an additional loop at the end of

each row, for about ten rows. Then pick up three loops at the bottom of

the hole, and do the same till you meet the stitches at the top. Join

all together and knit round and round till it is long enough; welt five

or six rows and finish.

THE KNIT ARMLET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 43.

This is very suitable for school girls to wear over their arms, or for

old persons, or people when travelling. They may be made as high as the

elbow, or up to the shoulder. Little children, in severe weather, wear

them over their little naked arms to prevent them from chapping. Fine

black lamb’s wool is most usually worn, in which case, it should be

well steeped in vinegar, and then dried, to prevent the dye coming off.

For a grown-up person, one hundred stitches will reach to the elbow.

Knit plain, as you would a garter, backwards and forwards, using large

ivory or steel pins. About twenty rows (more or less, according to the

size of the arm) are sufficient. Sew down the whole length, leaving an

opening of about a nail long to admit the thumb, sewing beyond it to

the end, about half a nail or less. When worn, they cling to the hand

and arm, keep them warm, and look particularly neat.

Some persons prefer them welted at the top and bottom, or ribbed the

whole way.

KNIT MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 44.

This is made simply by setting on forty stitches, and knitting three

rows plain and three rows turn-stitch, till wide enough, when it is

sewed up, leaving a hole for the thumb. It looks very neat in black or

light grey. Use finest wool and pins.

MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 45.

This is in plain knitting.

Set on twenty stitches,

Knit twenty-eight ribs.

Fringe is sewed on with a carpet needle in a kind of cross-stitch,

being wound over a mesh of the proper width.

MUFFATEE.

PLATE 21. FIG. 26.

This is extremely pretty, made of the two coloured ribbed stitch, or

the two coloured chain stitch.

Set on thirty loops, and knit the first and last three loops of every

pin plain knitting, of one colour, to make a kind of border. Continue

this for about twenty-two ribs, when sew up, and either add fringe, or

not, according to pleasure.

MUFFATEES.

Use fine pins and merino wool. Set on seventy four loops, knit six

rows, backwards and forwards, then six rows double knitting, and so on

alternately three times of double, and four of plain; then knit twelve

double, six plain, and finish off. Sew it up.

MUFFATEES.

Set on an even number of stitches (twenty for a child, thirty for a

lady, or fifty for a man) on an ivory pin.

Knit four, six, or eight stitches plain, according to the above sizes,

and continue the row in imitation double knitting stitch, making as

many plain stitches at the end of the row, as at the beginning.

Continue knitting backwards and forwards until sufficient is done for

the thickness of the wrist.

Sew or lace it up, and it is completed.

FRILL OR RUFF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 47.

These are very soft for children, and are generally knit of two

coloured wools and with ivory pins of a middling thickness.

Set on thirty-five stitches for a child, and fifty for

a grown-up person.

Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool,

Knit ten rows, putting the wool twice round the pin,

with white wool.

Again, knit four plain rows with the coloured wool,

and ten rows putting the wool twice round the pin,

with the white wool.

Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool, and fasten off.

Make up the frill as follows:—

Plat or double each white row, making the three sets of white rows lie

side by side, so as to stand up, and have a square appearance. When

done, lay the frill the wrong side uppermost, and sew the middle row of

each set of stitches together, side by side, all along.

Sew a ribbon at each end, to tie.

A RUFF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 48.

This is particularly useful for children to tie round the neck, and

is knit with fine wool and coarse pins. It may be knit in the raised

French stitch, or the open hem, or any other elastic soft stitch.

Set a sufficient number of stitches on the pin to be about two nails

wide, and knit six or eight nails long, and when done, sew up along the

side, and after drawing a piece of rolled wadding through, draw it, or

sew it up at each end, and attach ribbons, or worsted cord to tie it.

It resembles a boa in shape.

A SCARF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 49.

Set on sixty stitches (more or less, according to taste), always

choosing an even number, and knit along in the “Imitation Network

Stitch, No. 8,” to the length required, from one yard and a half to two

yards. Next make a fringe by setting on eighteen stitches, and, after

knitting a sufficient quantity in the same stitch to sew along the two

ends, fasten off, leaving, however, fourteen stitches to unrove, to

form the fringe.

These scarfs look beautiful in shaded colours, and may be knit of

floss silk, netting silk, cotton, thread, or wool. The above number of

stitches is calculated for wool.

ANOTHER SCARF.

This is made of the “French Raised Stitch, No. 31,” and looks

exceedingly beautiful, when made with fine wool and small pins.

The number of stitches depends, of course, on the quality of the wool;

it is therefore impossible to set down any fixed number; suffice it to

say it should be made of the usual width. At the ends fix some long

fringe, of which there are various kinds given in this work.

COMFORTER.

PLATE 21. FIG. 50.

For one comforter, buy a quarter of a pound of lamb’s wool. The six

thread, untwisted, is the best.

Set forty stitches on a pin, and, if the pins are not very thick, put

the wool twice round them while knitting every stitch, which should be

knit in double knitting, and may have a border and fringe at the ends

to give a finish, in which case, a little more wool will be required.

COMFORTER.

PLATE 21. FIG. 51.

Set thirty stitches on one pin,

Knit sixty-four plain ribs, backwards and forwards,

Pick up twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side

of the piece, leaving twenty-one stitches on each

side from the end.

Knit on backwards and forwards for twenty-two ribs,

to make a chest piece, and fasten off.

Sew up the two ends of the long piece, and it is completed.

When worn, the comforter is drawn over the head, letting

the chest piece hang down in front.

This is knit with soft wool and upon ivory pins.

ANOTHER COMFORTER, THE SAME SHAPE, BUT DONE IN DOUBLE KNITTING.

PLATE 21. FIG. 51.

Set on fifty-four stitches, and knit in double knitting, about

sixty-six or seventy rows, and fasten off, by knitting or binding the

two ends together.

From the middle of the length in front, pick up stitches for the chest

piece, and knit forty rows or more, according to pleasure.

A HANDKERCHIEF.

PLATE 21. FIG. 52.

This is a small and very warm handkerchief, to wear under a shawl or

fur tippet, in the winter; it is knit with pretty thick floss wool,

either white or coloured, in blue or crimson it looks well; the needles

used are either of wood, whalebone, or cane.

Cast on 160 common stitches, and knit one plain row, then nine rows of

double knitting with a plain stitch at the beginning and end of each

row, continue this double knitting, narrowing at one end, until the

handkerchief is brought to five or six stitches, then take it off like

a garter. This bottom corner is bound with ribbon, and two strings put

on to tie round the waist, the other two ends are also bound, and a

ribbon loop put on each, the ribbon passes through these loops, and it

fits neatly to the figure.

LITTLE KNIT HABIT-SHIRT.

PLATE 21. FIG. 53, 54, 55.

These are remarkably nice things to wear under the shawl, as they set

close to the chest, and give a great deal of warmth. They are best knit

with small wooden or thick steel pins, and with floss wool, about three

or four threads, and in double knitting.

The habit-shirt is in four pieces, namely, one back, two fronts and one

collar.

The back should be cut out to fit the person tolerably, and the fronts

joined to it on the shoulder, and brought across over the chest.

Observe, in the Plate that in Fig. 53, SS represent the straight parts,

and PP the sloped.

Begin to knit the front, by setting on as many stitches as will form

the length required from S to A, or top, and observe, as you continue

knitting, that one end of the knitting must be much more sloped than

the other, for which purpose, at that end most sloped, increase at

the beginning and end of the row, but at the side which is less

sloped, widen only at the end of the pin. Having made the two fronts

to match each other so as to be a pair, begin making the back. Begin

it at the bottom or narrow straight part at the waist; increase it at

the beginning and end of each row, till sufficiently wide to go from

shoulder to shoulder; after which, diminish in the same way at each end

of every row to the neck. Take off or finish the few centre stitches

that may remain, and knit up first on one side, and then on the other,

lessening each row till it is properly hollowed.

The collar is merely a straight piece.

In making up, sew the sides marked P, to each side of the back marked

ZZ, and sew on the collar all round. Put a ribbon behind, to tie round

the waist, and another at the throat.

A PRETTY KNIT HALF-HANDKERCHIEF.

Begin the handkerchief from one stitch, knit as many rows, increasing

one stitch every row at the same end, until there are seven loops upon

the pin.

Begin the pattern thus:—

Make a stitch,

Slip off a stitch,

Knit two together,

Put the slipped stitch over the two just knitted in one.

Again make a stitch,

Slip off a stitch,

Knit two stitches,

Put the slipped stitch over as before,

Continue thus until four stitches from the end of the row,

then make a stitch, and knit the four remaining stitches

plain.

Knit every alternate row in turn-stitch;

This alternate row must have the three last stitches knit plain,

increasing it by making a stitch.

The handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the

straight side. When done, fasten off.

HONEYCOMB-KNIT SHAWL.

This is made of fine lamb’s wool or yarn; it looks very well when the

centre is white, with a shaded border of some bright colour.

For a small shawl, or a large handkerchief, the following quantity is

required:—

Three ounces of fine white lamb’s wool.

Two skeins of the darkest shade of colour.

Two skeins of the next.

One skein of the lightest.

The needles are of wood, rather fine, not so thick as a drawing pencil.

The centre is first knit, beginning with only two loops on your needle,

to make the point fine; knit several plain rows, raising one loop in

each row; the raising is merely knitting first the outside and then the

inside of the last loop, and is continued in every row, whether plain

or open, through the whole shawl.

When you have ten loops on your needle begin your pattern, which is

done as follows:—

Knit four plain stitches, bring the wool in front of the

needle, and then, taking hold of two loops instead of

one, knit them plainly together; continue this till

within four loops of the end, which must be knit plain.

Always begin and end every open row with four plain

stitches.

Knit three plain rows between each figured one. When you

have from 200 to 250 loops, (which will make a good

sized shawl), begin the border, which looks best dark at

the edges, and shaded up to light in the middle. Before

beginning the border at the top, it is best to knit

three or four plain rows of the white wool; and observe,

that as there is a right and a wrong side to the shawl,

the first row of the border must be continued so as to

suit it, by knitting one, more or less, of the plain

white rows.

Begin with your darkest shade of border, and knit three or

more rows of it, according to taste; then the second,

the third, the lightest, the third again, second, and

darkest, increasing one loop in every row, both open and

plain, as before; the last three or four rows should be

plain, to make the edge firm. Then fasten off.

Begin the side border by taking up all the inside loops, as

those in the heel of a stocking are done, and begin with

the dark shade as at the top, and in the _first row

only_, raise a loop every fifth stitch, which may be

easily done by taking up the little bars or loops that

lie between the stitches; go on as before, raising one

loop at the end of every row.

Be careful to begin all the borders on the same side, as,

in consequence of the manner of taking up the loops,

there is a difference.

The raising the loops at the side border is done to make it set loosely

to the shawl, as, if it were not thus enlarged, it would be tight and

confined. The corners and point of the border are neatly joined with a

needle and thread.

A TIPPET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 56.

Cut out a tippet or cape of the proper shape and size in paper, and

then divide it into five equal portions; each portion may be considered

a gore, and by measuring by the stitches put on the pin with the

pattern, the right number may easily be ascertained. These gores may be

made to increase equally on both sides, as in the Plate, or only on one

side. Sometimes long ends are continued with the two front gores, to

make a sort of mantilla or pelerine.

Neat tippets might be made with advantage for school girls at times

when worsteds are cheap.

FOR A PURSE.

Set on one pin ninety or a hundred stitches, knit the first stitch, put

the silk over the pin, then slip a stitch and knit a stitch; turn the

slipped stitch over the last knit one, and so on all through the pin;

then seam the next row, and so on till completed, when fasten off.

FOR A PURSE

Use four pins. If the silk twist be fine it requires two skeins—if

coarse, three skeins; or, if to be made of two colours, half that

quantity. Cast on your three pins eighteen loops, if fine, or sixteen

loops, if coarse, and begin (after one plain row) to knit in raised

French stitch (see No. 31); and when sufficient rounds have been

completed to form fourteen holes length-wise, knit backwards or

forwards on two pins in the same stitch, to form the opening; after

complete fourteen more holes or batterns, join the purse again by

knitting in three pins, as before, until fourteen more holes are done,

when bind down and fasten off.

FOR A PURSE,

Two skeins of silk are sufficient (generally of two colours); use four

pins, set on four stitches on each pin; begin to knit plain round and

round, widen one stitch each round, until you have eighteen stitches on

each pin (measure here how much silk you have used that you may know

how much to reserve for narrowing with), then knit one stitch plain

and one turned for every round, until time to make the opening, when

put all your stitches on one needle, knitting backwards and forwards,

taking care to preserve the stitch by knitting the back rows properly,

by turning the stitches that were before knit plain, continue this till

the one skein is used up, when you are at the middle of your purse;

take the other skein as many rows again, backwards and forwards, then

join the opening by putting the stitches on three needles, as before,

and knit round and round until you have but enough silk left for the

narrowing, when begin to knit plain, narrowing every round until

reduced to four stitches, as before, on each pin, when fasten off.

FOR A PURSE.

Cast seventy-five stitches on one pin; two skeins of silk are

sufficient, and very fine pins are best; after knitting one plain row,

continue as follows: knit one stitch plain, and then knit the silk

twice round the pin, knit two stitches together in turn stitch; again

put the silk twice round the pin, and knit two stitches together in

turn stitch, and so on to every row, remembering that the first stitch

in every row is knit plain.

PRETTY NEW PURSE PATTERN.

Use four pins and set on each of three pins eighteen or twenty loops,

Knit one plain round, and then continue for another round as follows:—

Bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,

then turn the slipped stitch over the knit one;

Again bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a

stitch, and turn the slipped stitch over the knit one, and so

on to the end of the round,

Knit the two next rounds plain,

And continue alternately knitting one round of the pattern, and two

rounds plain, until the purse is finished.

RECEIPT FOR A ZEPHYRINE.

This is a very convenient thing to lie over the head instead of a

bonnet, especially in travelling, and is generally knit of two colours.

It should be knit with Berlin wool, on two rather fine pins, with knobs

at the end.

Set on your pin 100 stitches,

Knit a row plain,

Turn, or purl a row,

Repeat this twice more each,

Then change the colour, and continue knitting and purling

alternately, three rows each,

Again change to the first colour, and continue knitting and

purling, three rows more each,

Continue thus changing colour until there are five stripes

of one colour, and six stripes of the other,

when it is finished,

Then gather the ends to a point, bind them with ribbon,

and sew on strings to match the darkest colour.

A ZEPHYR.

This is a soft shawl to lay a baby on, or carry it out in, and is

desirable on account of its warmth and lightness. Some are made square,

others of a half-handkerchief shape.

In either case, set on about 130 or more stitches, and knit in

honeycomb or French raised stitch, the embossed, hexagon, or any other

simple pretty pattern preferred. A border and fringe may be added,

according to taste, and certainly gives a rich finish to it.

A BABY’S CAP.

Put on eighty stitches on the three pins, so as to have 240 stitches;

knit twelve, turning every alternate stitch; in the next row turn the

stitch which was plain before; take in eighty stitches, one at every

fourth stitch, so as to leave a full border; then knit one row plain,

one open row, three rows plain, and twenty-four rows double knitting;

then knit three rows plain, one open row, three rows plain, twenty-four

rows double knitting, three rows plain, one open row, and three rows

plain.

Cast on twenty-four stitches at each end of the first three plain, to

form the back of the cap; then knit forty-eight rows double knitting

the whole length; then take in gradually to the size of the crown in

one row, knit three rows plain, one open row; again three plain; fasten

off at the top, join up the back, and knit three rows plain, one open

row, and three plain.

The crown is made by putting on sixteen stitches, and increasing one

at each end for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen rows; then decrease

sixteen rows, which forms the circle.

A BABY’S CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 57.

Set on one stitch on each of three pins, and knit a circular piece of

knitting in hole-stitch, until there are 110 stitches altogether on the

three pins.

Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes,

and one of garter rib,

Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes,

and one rib of garter-stitch,

Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, and one of garter,

Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, one of garter,

two of stocking, and two of garter,

Finish off twenty-two stitches, and divide the remainder

of the stitches on two pins,

Knit three ribs of stocking, making holes at six stitches

distance, which serve for ribbons,

Knit three ribs of garter-stitch, two of stocking, six of

garter, three of stocking, one row of holes, four ribs

of stocking, six ribs of garter, three ribs of stocking,

one row of holes, four ribs of stocking, six ribs of

garter, and three of stocking; after which three more of

stocking, with holes at six stitches distance, to admit

of a second ribbon.

For the border, continue knitting twenty rows in huckaback

stitch; for the border behind, take up the stitches

at the ear on each side, and knit sufficient rows in

huckaback stitch till each strip is long enough to reach

the middle of the back. Put in a ribbon behind, and the

whole is completed.

A BABY’S BONNET OR HOOD.

PLATE 21. FIG. 58.

For the border, set on eighty stitches and knit in huckaback stitch,

narrow one stitch at each end of every other row, till you have knit

ten rows. Next, commence the head-piece, and knit six rows in double

knitting, the one row of holes, eight rows of double knitting, one

of holes, and six rows of double knitting, then begin to knit in

honeycomb-stitch, fasten off two stitches at the end of each pin, every

row until there are but twenty-four on the pin, then fasten off.

For the crown, set on five stitches, widen each row till you have

sixteen loops, then knit twelve rows. Narrow at each end for two rows,

knit fourteen rows and fasten off. Sew the crown to the head-piece with

wool of the same quality.

Begin the curtain by taking up all the stitches at the back, and

knitting six rows in double knitting, widening four stitches on each

pin; then one row of holes, widening two stitches; then six rows of

double knitting still widening, one of holes, widening two stitches,

and double knitting, increasing till there are 150 stitches on the pin,

then fasten off, and put in ribbons through the holes where wanted.

A GENTLEMAN’S NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 21. FIG. 59.

This cap has a very pretty appearance, something resembling old

fashioned insertion-lace, as there is an ornamented border round the

head. It is done with fine needles and cotton, and knit round like a

stocking. The plan is as follows:—

Cast on any number of stitches, divisable by thirteen.

1st Row. Turn one, knit one, turn one, slip one, knit one.

Draw the slipt loop over, knit six plain, bring the

cotton over, as though going to turn, knit one, bring

your cotton to the top and knit one.

2nd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

3rd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit five,

bring the cotton to the top and knit two.

4th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

5th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit four,

bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton

to the top, knit three.

6th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

7th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit three,

bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton

to the top, knit four.

8th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

9th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit two,

bring the cotton to the top, knit five.

10th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine.

11th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit one,

bring the cotton to the top, knit six.

12th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit

nine, knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds, knit

one round, throwing the cotton twice over the needle;

turn one round, repeat this until you have eighteen

turned rounds. Knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds,

take four needles, and knit and turn three rounds

alternately, narrowing at each needle end, having a

turn, knit and seam between each narrowing; continue

this until there are four loops on each needle, which

will draw round the tassel.

KNIT BAGS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 60, 61.

Very pretty bags may be made of fantail stitch in silk twist, for which

purpose set on as many stitches, divisable by fourteen, as are required

for the width of the bag. About four times fourteen or fifty-six

stitches will be a useful size, adding, if preferred, four extra

stitches on each end, and between each of the fourteen stitches, to

separate the pattern more effectually, and make it look richer. These

extra stitches will amount to five times four or twenty, making in all

seventy-six stitches. Knit the four stitches of any pattern preferred;

supposing the open hem, No. 4, is selected, then knit as follows:—

Set on seventy-six stitches, knit four plain ribs,

and six turn-stitch rows.

Open hem the first four stitches,

Fantail the next fourteen stitches,

Open hem the next four stitches, and so on, till the last open hemmed

four stitches complete the row.

Continue as above till a sufficient length is done for both sides of

the bag, after which, seam it up, and put cord and tassels to complete

the whole, lining it or not, according to pleasure.

KETTLE HOLDERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 62.

This is knit in double knitting, with a border of plain ribs round.

Set thirty-two stitches on one pin,

Knit four ribs plain,

Knit double knitting, letting the first four stitches and the

last four stitches of every row be plain knitting.

When the double knit part is quite square, add the four ribs

of plain knitting, to complete the border, and fasten off.

A little loop of twisted wool is put at the top to hang it by.

KNIT MATS, OR KETTLE HOLDERS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 63.

This is knit to resemble fringe all over, and when well done looks very

pretty.

Use fine needles and a common kind of worsted for knitting the wool

fringe, which must be thick and soft.

Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which,

begin the next row by knitting one plain stitch, then put the wool

between the pins round the fingers, and back again between the pins in

front, and so on, similar to the rug stitch, No. 33.

KNIT OPEN BRAID.

PLATE 21. FIG. 64.

This is very simple, and if done with cord or thick cotton or worsted,

might be very useful for sewing on, to ornament children’s dresses; or

if of silk twist, for putting round pincushions, curtains, &c.

Set on one stitch, and knit as many stitches as the longest pin will

possibly hold. Knit two rows plain, and then unrove one row by pulling

out the pin, and draw the wool through the last loop, to keep it from

roving still further. The braid is thus formed, and must be sewed on at

each top and bottom loop.

KNIT MATS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 65.

Set on thirty stitches or more, according to the size required, and

knit in the two coloured chain-stitch till a square is completed, when

make a fringe, No. 1, and sew it round. When completed, cut it and comb

it out, taking care not to pull out the bits by drawing too hard.

COVERLET.

PLATE 21. FIG. 66.

This is knit with cotton, and is composed of several squares sewed

together. These squares are begun at one corner, commencing with two

stitches, and increasing to fifty or more, by widening at each end of

each row. It is then decreased by narrowing at each end of each row,

and fastened off when two stitches are left on the pins. These squares

are often ornamented, sometimes by knitting one row turn-stitch, seven

rows plain, backwards and forwards, and so on, so as to form three ribs

garter, and one rib stocking-stitch.

Some persons ornament each square differently, others merely sew them,

so that the rows shall run or lie in different positions. A border with

fringe may be put round, for which purpose, refer to the stitches for

fringes, &c.

The huckaback pattern is very suitable for coverlets.

BLANKETS.

These are usually made for infants’ cradles and invalids, on account of

their warmth and lightness; they should be knit with very large pins

and thick wool, and in double knitting all the way, having a border of

imitation double knitting or huckaback all round, to keep them more in

place.

Set on from 100 to 200 stitches, according to the size

required, knitting about ten ribs of border, after which

the remainder is plain double knitting. Observe that the

first and last eight or ten loops on each end of the pin

be knit in the border-stitch.

COTTON DOYLEYS.

PLATE 21. FIG. 67.

These are very pretty, and may be made in various stitches.

The following is a particularly pretty way:—

Set on thirty-eight stitches,

Knit two plain ribs,

Continue knitting two plain stitches and two turn stitches,

remembering every two ribs to knit plain stitches over

turn stitches, and turn stitches over plain, so as to

form a kind of ornamental knitting, resembling huckaback

or checks.

Observe, the two last, as well as the two first stitches of

every row are plain, to continue the border; also knit

two plain ribs to correspond, before fastening off. Sew

in the fringe, No. 2.

ANOTHER DOYLEY.

This is similar to the one before, excepting that it is knit in

honeycomb or hole-stitch.

A HANDSOME BORDER AND CORNERS FOR A SHAWL.

This is a very beautiful pattern when properly done, and would answer

well for a shawl, a baby’s zephyrine, a mat, carpet, counterpane, or

any other article enclosed in a square.

The border (which is a kind of fantail stitch) is ended at each corner

by squares, which gives great lightness to the whole.

In beginning one of these corners, set on but two stitches on the pin

to form the point; and observe, as you go on, to increase one stitch

at the end of every row, until the square or diamond is knit to a

sufficient width (say thirteen rows) when decrease every row one stitch

at the end, until the number of loops on your pin is reduced to two

again, when fasten off, and the square is completed.

The stitch with which the square is knitted is formed as follows; and

the number of ribs at the side should be divisable by six and one over,

to be the proper width for the border; thirteen is a very good number

of ribs.

Begin the square by knitting plain every row until you have thirteen

stitches on your pin (remembering to increase one stitch at the end of

each row) and then continue as below.

1st Row. Knit six stitches plain,

Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch,

Knit two together,

Knit the remaining stitches plain.

Next Row. Knit plain,

Knit six stitches plain,

Pass the cotton in front, to make a stitch,

Knit two stitches together,

Pass the cotton in front again, to make a stitch,

Knit two stitches together,

Knit the remaining stitches plain.

Next Row. Knit plain.

Continue the above, observing that every alternate row is

knit plain, and the rows between knit in the above

stitch; always leaving six plain stitches at each end of

the pin, to make a kind of little border to the square.

When complete, begin the border by picking up the stitches on one side

of the square, and then continue thus:—

1st Row. Seam a stitch,

Knit a stitch,

Seam a stitch,

Knit two stitches,

Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch.

Knit a stitch.

Repeat the same for six more stitches; then,

Knit one stitch.

Next Row. Knit a stitch,

Seam a stitch,

Knit a stitch,

Knit two together,

Seam eleven stitches,

Knit two together.

Next Row. Seam a stitch,

Knit one,

Seam one,

Knit two together,

Knit nine plain,

Knit three together.

Next Row. Knit a stitch,

Seam a stitch,

Knit a stitch,

Knit two together,

Seam seven stitches,

Knit two together.

Continue these four rows successively, until the border is long

enough to insert another corner or square, as before.

GENTLEMAN’S TRAVELLING CAPS.

These are remarkably pretty and comfortable, and should be made of

shaded wool or silk, and are knit with two pins only.

Set on an even number of stitches,

Knit the first row plain;

Observe to slip off the first stitch of every row

throughout, and continue as follows:—

1st Row. (After slipping the first stitch) put the wool in front

to make a stitch,

Slip off a stitch the contrary way,

Knit a stitch, as before,

Continue this until at the end of the row,

Next Row. (After, as usual, slipping off the 1st stitch) knit two

stitches together the whole way, leaving one at the

end to knit plain. Repeat this.

SOFA FOOT COVERS, OR WARMERS.

These are useful for the feet of an invalid, when lying on the sofa,

and are knit as follows:—

Set on one pin 174 stitches, and knit one plain row, after

which knit eleven or twelve rows in any fancy stitch

to form a border, and then commence double knitting,

remembering to continue the border pattern at each side,

by knitting the first and last twelve stitches on the

pin, every row in the same fancy stitch.

Continue this until your work is square, when open it like

a bag, which must be done by gently taking out your pin

and picking up the loops on two pins, each pin taking up

the alternate loops. Knit a similar border as that made

at the beginning, to each pin of stitches, and fasten

off. The foot warmer, or bag, is then completed, and may

have a fringe sewn on all round, to give a finish to the

whole.

RETICULE BAG.

This is knit in two colours, say violet and green.

Set on your pin any number of stitches divisible by six,

(about seventy-eight is a good size), and, after

knitting one plain row, fasten on the other colour and

knit six stitches with the violet and six with the

green, alternately, to the end of the row.

Next row, knit entirely turn-stitch, still knitting six

stitches, alternately, of the two colours, taking care

that each colour shall be knit in continuation of

itself, so as to form distinct stripes.

Continue knitting alternate rows of plain stitch and

seam-stitch, until the work is so long, as when doubled

will form a well-proportioned reticule bag. Observe, in

passing the wool behind of one colour across the other,

not to pull it tight; when completed, fasten off; line

with buckram and flannel and violet green or gold silk;

put a cord of silk or wool all round, with cord handles

and tassels.

This makes a durable handsome bag, and may be knit of even

more colours or shades, if preferred.

Reticules knit with other stitches look very pretty, as the

herring-bone back-stitch,

The two coloured rib-stitch,

The two coloured chain-stitch.

Or the above striped pattern may be varied by arranging the stripes in

checks instead.

Papier machée tops are now made for bags, which look very handsome.

KNIT PETTICOAT.

For delicate children, a knit petticoat is far warmer and lighter than

a flannel one, and is knit in double knitting, or in imitation double

knitting:—for a child of four or six years of age, set on 400 stitches

and knit the proper length, when finish with a few plain rows and

fasten off. Sew up the seam to the proper distance behind.

CHILD’S KNIT STAYS.

As stays vary so very much in size, according to the make of the child,

it would be difficult to form a receipt, as they should fit well, and

the styles of knitters vary so much. It is better to cut, in paper,

the exact shape of the stay, and then knit your stay to match it, by

constantly measuring. Set on sufficient stitches on your pin to form

the depth of the end of the stay, and knit several plain rows until the

rise of the shoulder.

Add a stitch at the beginning of every rib until it is sufficiently

raised or hollowed, to form the beginning of the shoulder-strap,

then begin to hollow for the arm-hole, decreasing one stitch at the

beginning of one row, and the end of the next, and so on, until the

hole is deep enough, when commence increasing in the same proportion,

to form the rise inside the arm-hole.

The body in front should be slightly hollowed towards the middle, and

the remainder half of the body finished in the same manner, therefore,

it is advisable to set down every widening and narrowing as you do it,

in order that the one half may exactly correspond with the other.

These bodies generally have tape shoulder straps, but knit ones can

easily be attached, by picking up six stitches on the shoulder,

knitting a narrow strip.

They are generally straight at the bottom, and are usually knit of

cotton, and are very elastic.

SILK WATCH GUARD.

Set on your pin seven or nine stitches, or even more if the silk is

very fine.

Knit in common knitting a yard and a half in length.

Some thread their silk with beads, either black or gold, and introduce

them in the knitting to form the initials or name of the wearer, or

to make fanciful devices; others knit it entirely with beads of one

or more colours, introducing one bead at every stitch, but the plain

knitting is the neatest and handsomest of the three kinds, the other

two being too gay for daily wear.

CHECKED NAPKIN RINGS.

Choose two colours, say green and gold, set on your pin with the green

wool twenty-four stitches and knit one plain row, and then knit as

follows:—

1st Row. Knit plain four stitches, alternately of each colour,

to the end of the row.

2nd Row. Turn-stitch (four stitches alternately of each colour)

to the end of the row, observing to keep the gold colour

over the gold, and green over the green

3rd Row. Plain knit, as in the first row.

4th Row. Turn-stitch, as in the second row.

Repeat these four rows.

The next eight rows are knit exactly the same way, excepting that the

colours are arranged so that the green is placed over the gold, and the

gold over the green.

Continue alternately changing the situation of the colours every eight

rows, until about one and a half nail in length is knit, when fasten

off, line with buckram or wire, and silk, putting a bow at the seam

where the ends are sewn together, and it is completed. Some knit these

in the two coloured rib and two coloured chain-stitch.

SOFA SHAWL.

These are very expensive, but useful for invalids, on account of their

warmth and lightness.

Set on five or six hundred stitches and knit a square of double

knitting, or imitation double knitting, either with or without a

border, if the latter is preferred, the one which is explained with

corners is the handsomest, unless fringe is also required, when one of

the fringe borders may be added at once.

A BOSOM FRIEND.

Set on your pin seventy stitches, and knit in imitation knitting for

about 100 rows, when knit twenty-five stitches of the next row, after

which take another pin and fasten off the next twenty stitches, then

knit the last twenty-five stitches on another pin.

Continue knitting the twenty-five stitches on one pin in the same

stitch, fastening off one stitch at every end and beginning of each

row, next to the middle, which forms the hollowing round the neck.

When the stitches are reduced to four, fasten off.

Do the same with the other pin containing twenty-five stitches, and

fasten off.

Sew pieces of white ribbon to the corners, to hang it by round the neck.

Some persons do not hollow out bosom friends, but knit them square or

oblong.

BRACES FOR GENTLEMEN.

These may be knit in wool, cotton, or even silk. The following receipt

is for cotton braces (the wool would require fewer stitches, and the

silk more than the cotton).

The shape of a brace is wide in the middle, with two narrow ends.

For the first narrow end, set on twenty-four stitches, and knit two

nails in length, in imitation of double knitting, or in huckaback

stitch. Widen to forty-eight stitches, and knit a length of nine nails.

Narrow at each end, till reduced to thirty stitches, when put half

the loops on one pin and half on another; continue knitting each end

separately until three nails long, when fasten off and the one brace

is completed. These two last ends should be knit with a button-hole in

each, which is easily done by again halving the stitches on two pins,

and knitting them separately a few rows (say eight or twelve), and

afterwards joining them together on one pin again.

THE SPIRAL BOA, OR RUFF.

Set on any quantity of stitches to form an even number of threes, say

thirty-six or forty-eight, and knit a plain row in one coloured wool.

Fasten on the other colour, and knit three stitches alternately with

each colour.

Next row, turn-stitch back again, knitting each colour over

its own shade.

Continue knitting one row plain, and turn-stitch back again,

observing each plain row to alter the arrangement of the

colours one stitch, which gives the shades a spiral direction.

For a clearer explanation, observe as follows:—

1st Row. Knit plain three grey and three scarlet stitches,

alternately to the end of the row.

2nd Row. Turn-stitch back, keeping the colours over their

own shades.

3rd Row. Knit two grey stitches, then three scarlet and

three grey, alternately, to the end of the row, leaving

one grey at the end.

4th Row. Knit the colours over their shade in the last row

in turn-stitch.

5th Row. Knit one grey stitch, then three scarlet and three

grey, alternately, ending with two grey at the end.

6th Row. Turn-stitch back again.

7th Row. Knit three scarlet and three grey, alternately to

the end.

8th Row. Turn-stitch back again.

9th Row. Knit two scarlet, and three grey, and three scarlet

alternately, leaving one scarlet at the end.

10th Row. Turn-stitch back again.

11th Row. Knit one scarlet, and three grey, and three

scarlet alternately, leaving two scarlet at the end.

12th Row. Knit three grey and three scarlet, alternately

and so on. Observe that you keep your wool (which is

constantly passed across) always at the wrong side of

the knitting, or that side which does not resemble the

stitch of a knit stocking. Take care not to pull the

wool tight when passing it across.

When a sufficient length is knit, fasten off and sew up, and fill with

wadding or wool, which is pushed down with a stick or long knitting

pin, and then sewn up.

Three or more colours may be used, but it is rather troublesome to

prevent the wools from entangling, on account of their crossing each

other so frequently.

SWISS CAP.

This is a kind of woollen tie or frill, to keep the head and ears warm

when in an open carriage, and is put on over the border of the bonnet

cap, and ties under the chin.

Its length is about six nails and a half, and the depth when double,

one nail and a half.

The colours generally chosen are white, blue, and scarlet.

Choose two very thick wooden pins, also some very fine lamb’s wool, and

some thick sewing silk of the same colour.

Set on about sixty stitches or more (according to the length desired)

on one pin with silk, and knit a plain row, then knit another plain row

with wool, putting it three times round the needle every stitch instead

of once.

Next row, knit exactly the same.

Next row, knit plain, passing the wool but once round the pin as usual.

Repeat the three rows twice more, and then finish off by knitting a

plain row of silk.

Double the piece of knitting in half its depth, so as to form a kind of

frill, and run in a ribbon along the third row of long stitches in and

out through both the folds or frills, to keep them in place, which also

serves as strings to keep the cap on the head by tying under the chin.

A LIGHT SCARF.

Set on 100 stitches, and knit either in one or two colours, seven nails

of raised French stitch, or honeycomb-stitch, after which, knit a row

plain, putting the wool six times round the pin at every stitch.

Next row, knit plain, taking care to keep the long stitches even.

Knit one row of honeycomb pattern.

Knit another plain row.

Repeat the row of long stitches, by again putting the wool six

times round the pin.

Again the plain row, as also the row of honeycomb pattern,

and the other plain row.

Continue this till the scarf is long enough to allow of your ending as

you began, with seven nails of fancy stitch. A fringe should be added.

These scarfs are often made with the long stitches white, and all the

rest coloured, and look very handsome.

AN IMPROVED SOCK.

Use coarse lamb’s wool and middle sized pins; cast on

seventeen stitches of coloured wool, this makes the

first row in reckoning.

At the end of the second row, make a stitch, which gives

a better form to the heel than setting on eighteen at

first.

At the end of the third row, add a stitch.

Add a stitch at the end of the fifth, seventh, ninth,

eleventh, &c., until you have twenty-five loops on the pin.

Then with a third pin knit ten stitches only.

Continue knitting backwards and forwards the ten stitches

only, until you have knit twenty rows.[3]

At the end of the twenty-first row, make fifteen stitches,

so as to have twenty-five stitches again on the pin, and

to make it correspond with the other side.

Finish this side of the shoe with as many rows as you knit

on the opposite side, decreasing every other row by

knitting the two first stitches together at the toe,

until there are but seventeen left on the pin, and

fasten off.

All this has been knit of red wool.

Then continue with the white wool for twenty-four rows,

which will complete the sock, adding at the end of the

two first sixth and seventh rows, one to enlarge the boot.

Sew up the shoe to the sock at the instep, and draw up the

toe and sew it round the heel and up the leg. A bow may

be added, if required, also leather soles.

[3] At the end of this twenty rows, take up ten stitches, and with

white wool knit fourteen rows. Then take on to this middle pin, which

has the white even upon it, nine stitches from each side (namely, from

the top of the heel) of the red shoe, and knit two rows with coloured

wool for the strap.

FLOWER STAND COVERS.

Take a tin can or jar, of the proper size for the flowers to be placed

in, and make the knit cover as follows:—

Choose two middle sized steel pins, and rather fine wool of two

colours, and begin as follows:—

Set on as many stitches as will measure to the depth of the

flower stand, and knit six rows of one colour, letting

the alternate rows be plain, and turn-stitch so as to

make one side appear like knit stockings on the right

side. The next six rows knit of the other colour, and

altering the alternate rows of plain and turn-stitch, so

as to throw the stocking-stitch inside. Continue thus

ribbing the piece of work until you have knit sufficient

to go round the base, when fasten off and sew up. Add a

fringe at the top, and a circular piece of wire inside,

both at top and bottom, is sometimes put to keep it in

shape; though the jar generally is sufficient in itself

when put inside. A leather or cloth bottom may be added.

KNIT PEN WIPER.

Set on your pin thirty stitches of black wool, and knit

eight rows backwards and forwards for the border. The

middle part is next begun in the embossed hexagon-stitch

of red, or any other colour, still observing to continue

the border, by knitting four plain stitches at the

beginning and ending of each pin of the black wool.

End by knitting the eight plain rows of black wool as

before, to complete the first enclosed square of the pen

wiper, do not fasten off, but begin knitting another

piece exactly to match the first, which when finished

completes the pen wiper. Double it like a book and sew a

bit of ribbon down the inside, under which may be passed

bits of silk or rag to wipe the pens upon.