ON UPHOLSTERY.
As some knowledge of upholstery is of importance to the head of every
establishment, a few general observations relating to the fitting up of
beds, windows, and other articles of furniture requiring much drapery;
also, blinds, carpets, &c., may be advantageously inserted in this
work; as, in families of limited income, it is a great saving to make
up the above mentioned articles at home.
The Author has only introduced those patterns which, from their
simplicity, may always be used, without being decidedly in or out
of fashion. It is strongly recommended to those who can afford the
expense, to employ an experienced upholsterer, as the patterns will not
only be more in fashion, but more tastefully and regularly put up, than
they could possibly be by any one unaccustomed to the business.
Great accuracy is necessary for the graceful arrangement of drapery.
BEDSTEADS.
PLATE 22.
There are various shaped bedsteads, and consequently numerous modes of
fitting them up, the most simple of which will be explained in their
proper order.
[Illustration: PLATE 22
Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8
Fig 10 Fig 9 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14
Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20
Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25
Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 30
Fig 26 Fig 28 Fig 31]
In providing bedsteads, it is always better to purchase them quite
new, even when required for the commonest purposes, as those which are
second-hand are liable to harbour bugs, which it takes both time and
patience to get rid of.
It is desirable that all bedsteads should have castors to roll upon,
that they may be the more readily moved about. Observe likewise that
there are valance sticks, curtain rods, and a good head board.
The best bedsteads are made of mahogany and oak: the commoner sorts, of
beech, stained red or painted. Those for hospitals or prisons, of iron;
supposed to be a preventative against bugs.
Brass bedsteads are used abroad, especially by travellers, and are
ornamental and durable, but very expensive.
The following is a list of the different kinds of bedsteads in general
use:—
The four-post bed, from £2. 10_s._ upwards, Plate 22, Fig. 2.
The tent bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 15.
The camp, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 16.
The half-tester, — 18_s._ —— — 22, — 19.
The French pole, — £1. 18_s._ —— — 22, — 21.
The French arrow bed, — £1. 10_s._ —— — 22, — 22.
The canopy bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 25.
The French block bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 24.
The turn-up bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 26.
The stump bed, — 9_s._ —— — 22, — 31.
The trestle or x, — 9_s._ —— — 22, — 27.
Besides which may be added, hanging beds or cots, hammocks, cribs, sofa
or chair beds, &c.
HINTS ON PUTTING UP BEDS.
So few ladies or servants understand how to put up or take down
bedsteads, that the following instructions are entered upon at full
length. An instrument called a bed key should be procured for the
purpose (see Plate 22, Fig. 1), after which proceed as follows:—Divide
the high upright posts for the head of the bed, from those intended for
the foot; the former are easily distinguished from the latter, being
usually square and perfectly plain, whereas those for the foot are
generally circular and ornamented.
Place the two head posts near that part of the wall where the bed is
to stand. Lay the foot posts below them on the floor, first observing
whether there are any marks or numbers upon them, by which you can be
directed to place the proper foot post opposite to its corresponding
head post; next lay the side and end pieces in their proper places; the
longer ones for the sides, and the shorter for the ends; these should
also be marked to point out their relative situations. Lay the head
board at the top, and the foot board at the bottom, and afterwards put
one long and one short screw at each corner of the bedstead. Assistance
must now be procured to rear up the four posts and set in the sides.
Three persons are necessary to effect this, but four are better for a
full sized bed.
Raise up the posts and set between them the side pieces, taking care
to slip into the groove, both the head and the foot boards, as they
cannot be put in after the posts are screwed together, unless they
button against them. The four long screws are intended to screw into
the sides, and the four short ones into the ends. The screw holes are
placed behind the little brass plates usually put on the legs of the
posts. Proceed with the bed key to turn each screw till firmly fixed in
the hole.
The sacking is next tightly laced up with strong cord, and ought to be
pulled together and knotted by a man, as a woman is scarcely strong
enough to do it effectually. The top-rails are next put on by slipping
the holes at the ends over the spikes at the tops of the bed posts.
The curtains are generally put on before the outer cornice, this last
is generally fastened on by a spring, or by hooks, or some other simple
contrivance.
Camp or tent beds have ribs or bars across the roof of the bed to keep
the curved top firm, but in other respects, differ little from the
four-post bed.
Observe, on taking down a bed, to mark carefully upon the pieces,
before removing them, different numbers, so as easily to place them in
their proper situations when next put up.
The head of a half-tester bedstead, should be very strongly attached
to the back, as its weight will endanger its falling, if not firmly
secured.
The other shapes will be entered upon when the mode of furnishing them
is explained.
ON FURNISHING BEDS.
Beds are furnished with the following articles, which with the addition
of sheets and pillow cases, explained in the article of house linen,
make them complete.
The drapery, including curtains.
The straw mattress.
The wool or hair mattress.
The feather bed.
The bolster.
The two or three pillows.
The quilt or counterpane.
The blankets.
The watch-pockets.
Beds for common use are hung with linen or cotton check, or stripe,
print or stuff, but for better purposes, with dimity, fine stuff,
moreen, damask, chintz, Turkey twill, and lined with glazed calico or
muslin of various colours, and for state-rooms, fine silk, satin, or
velvet is employed.
The modes of fitting up beds are various, according to the shape of
the bedstead, as well as to the taste. The most usual and simple
methods alone will be treated of here, all best beds and drapery for
sitting-rooms should be put up by regular upholsterers, as it requires
much correctness of eye, added to taste and knowledge of the prevailing
fashion.
The following observations on taste, on the choice of materials,
and arrangement of drapery, generally speaking, will be found worth
attending to.
Beds that are placed in small and low rooms should be hung with as
little drapery, as is consistent with comfort. Large valances, deep
fringes, high mattresses look bustling, and are not so airy and
therefore not so healthful as plenty of open space.
Beds placed in lofty rooms should be high, and have deep fringe and
valances, otherwise they will have a mean appearance, still if the room
be narrow, the less bulk of drapery the better.
Beds situated in dark gloomy rooms should be furnished with a cheerful
airy material, at the same time avoiding too violent a contrast with
the character of the room, furniture, or carpet. Every thing must be
taken into consideration and is worth attending to, for with a little
judgment, a room may be more elegantly furnished than another where six
times the money has been laid out, if not under the direction of taste.
Blue is pretty, but rather cold; yellow gives great cheerfulness, as
also pink, but the latter is apt to fade soon and is perhaps a little
too shewy. Crimson, claret, stone-colour, buff, and light green all
look well; a darker green is very refreshing to the eye, and therefore
suitable for very light sunny rooms.
Beds that are furnished with thick drapery, as stuff, moreen, damask or
linens, seldom, if ever, require linings, while chintzes and sometimes
dimities are lined with glazed calico, in which case, care should be
taken that the colour of the lining harmonizes not only with the bed
furniture, but with the papering of the room. The fringe, tassels,
ribbons, cord, and other decorations, should match in colour with the
lining. The pattern of the material should also be a consideration.
Stripes or small patterns are suitable for small rooms, while large
flowers or patterns best accord with large ones.
ON THE VARIOUS MODES OF DECORATING BED FURNITURE.
Beds are generally decorated with tassels or fringe, if the latter,
lace is usually laid on, at about a nail above the edge upon the hem
which is turned up. Sometimes the lining is cut larger than the outer
part, and brought over the edge to form a hem of a nail deep all round
the material outside. This looks pretty and simple. If the cornice be
a common one, the valance may be made with a kind of frill or heading
above, or a band or rouleau of the material laid above the valance
round which may be wrapped strips of the coloured lining of half an
inch, or even a nail in width. Cords in festoons, cut velvet, binding
and ornamental gimp or open work, are often employed. White dimity
furniture is sometimes lined with coloured calico with turned up hems,
sometimes merely coloured hems, at others finished with white fringe,
or frills with white cords and tassels.
ON FURNISHING A FULL SIZED FOUR-POST BED.
Bed furniture is composed of a top, a back, two head curtains, two foot
curtains, one top outer and one top inner valance, one bottom valance,
and sometimes extra drapery laid on the back of the bed.
When beds are lined, the lining is put inside the curtains, and within
the top and back of the bed. If there is any drapery laid upon the
back, it is generally composed of the outer chintz, as is also the
inside top valance.
Large sheets of coarse brown paper pasted together in lengths should be
laid over the beds to catch the dust. Some persons lay harden or coarse
linen between the head of the bed and these sheets of paper.
The furniture for beds must be cut differently, according to the
pattern of the material. If it is in stripes down the selvage the
valances are cut in breadths, if otherwise, upholsterers generally cut
them along the selvage, as they are less liable to shrink when cleaned
or washed.
PLAIN DRAPERY FOR A LARGE SIZED FOUR-POST BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 3.
If in If cut down
Breadths. the Selvage.
Width of head curtains, each 2 breadths 2 breadths
Width of each foot curtain 4 or 5 4 or 5
Width of foot valance all round 9 or 11 11 yards.
Width of the top outside valance 15 breadths 16 yards.
Width of the top inside valance 11 breadths 11 yards.
The back and head must be exactly measured, letting the selvage-way
ran from head to foot of the bed. The curtains should just touch the
ground, as also should the foot valance. The inner top valance should
be half a nail narrower than the outer. In making up, the curtains are
bound round, or if lined, sometimes the lining is brought outside to
form a hem all round. Lace is often laid on at about one nail from the
edge. The valances accord with the rest, having often fringe added to
gve a greater finish.
FESTOON HANGINGS.
PLATE 22. FIG. 4.
In making festoon valances or hangings, measure as follows:—
Divide the side of the bed in half, driving in a small tack as a mark.
Hang a piece of tape from the middle of the side to the end, Fig. 7,
making it fall in the droop or curve desired (see A B C, Fig. 7). Do
the same with another piece of tape, making it fall in the direction
of the upper part of the droop (see D E). Lay the material, Fig. 5,
on the table, and after taking down the pieces of tape, measure the
material from A to B, the length of the lower droop. Put a pin (see
D) immediately above B, upon the other selvage as a mark, and then
measure from the end, R, upon the selvage, the length of the upper
droop or shortest tape, which will fall at E, at some distance within
the mark D. Divide the space between D and E, exactly in half at G, and
cut from B to G; cut three other pieces to correspond, which, as they
exactly fit one with another (see Fig. 5), prevents waste. These four
pieces or breadths are for part of each of the four festoons, which
require a breadth and a half in each. For the half breadths fold the
material in exactly half its width, laying selvage along selvage, and
measure for the rest of the festoons (see Fig. 6). Upon the selvage
side, H, measure the length of the shortest part of the first breadths
already cut, and on the doubled side, measure the _exact_ length of
the smallest tape for the upper droop, L, and cut from H, to within a
nail of L, thus, when the doubled part is slit down, forming two half
breadths to correspond with the two whole breadths, making in all two
complete festoons. Cut two others, and the four festoons are complete,
and when the half breadths are sewed to the whole breadths, they appear
each similar to Fig. 10. Lay them one upon another, and slope off from
the straight end at the bottom A, about two nails from the sloped side,
B, and the festoons are ready to be made up. The bottom of the bed must
be measured with tape, and cut out in a similar manner.
The corners of the festoons are cut as follows:—
Measure off from the end, A, Fig. 8, down the selvage, the length
desired, putting a pin, B, in one of the selvages as a mark. Measure
the half of the length, A B, on the opposite selvage at D, and slope
off from D to B. This forms one head post corner, or half a foot post
corner, so that it requires six of these sloped lengths to complete
the four corners of the bedstead, and if cut properly to fit into each
other, no waste occurs. The Plate, Fig. 9, represents a head corner,
and Fig. 8, a foot corner or two breadths sewed together.
Sometimes a double corner is also made to hang between the two
festoons, in which case, it is cut similarly to the above, excepting
that it is much shorter and rounder. When the festoon is carried over a
pole, it is all in one piece (see Fig. 11), the pieces being shaped at
the ends, as in the separate festoons above.
ANOTHER UPPER DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 12.
This is simply a deep fringe, and looks exceedingly plain and handsome.
A back-piece or very narrow valance should be put outside, the inner
valance to accord exactly with the outer, to which the fringe is sewed.
The rod or pole should be handsome, and should be put outside this
valance, so as just to conceal the part where the fringe is attached.
The curtains are suspended to the rod by handsome rings, and draw
outside the valance and fringe. Cord and tassels may be added, if
preferred.
ANOTHER UPPER DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 13.
This is simple and pretty, and takes less material than the full
valance; it is cut selvage-way of the material of such a depth as
will accord with both room and bedstead, and exactly to fit round
the cornice. This valance is cut in various shapes, either pointed,
rounded, vandyked, gothic or otherwise, and usually with tassels fixed
to each point or angle to give a finish. Cords may be hung in festoons
at pleasure.
ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 14.
This is equally simple; it is cut in breadths and takes about nine on
each side, and seven at the bottom, to go round the bedstead; it is
sloped or cut nearly to a point in the middle of each of the three
sides, where a bow or ornament of some kind may be put.
ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 15.
This is suitable for tent beds, and is hung with a succession of
festoons, made as explained before.
ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY.
PLATE 22. FIG. 16.
This is intended for a camp bed, and is hung in festoons, having
however a back valance of plaited or plain material, which, together
with the curtains may, if preferred, be of a different colour to the
valances.
ON THE HEADS AND TOPS OF BEDS.
These vary very much, being sometimes plain and at others ornamented.
The material must always lie selvage-way from head to foot, and never
crosswise of the bedstead.
When plain, the material is stretched across so as to shew neither
crease nor wrinkle. Gimp is often laid down the seams and along the
sides.
When the head is plain, it is usual to put two festoons to give it a
more finished appearance. These festoons should be of the same material
as the outer drapery.
When full, Plate 22, Fig. 20, it takes four or more breadths, and is
set evenly into a band of webbing, which is tacked on to the bed, or
with loops hung firmly to hooks, so as not to tear the furniture.
When starred, Plate 22, Fig. 17, it generally takes eight breadths,
four at the corners, and the other four top and bottom, and the sides,
these must be shaped to form the square. It is all drawn to a centre
and fastened with a brass star. Sometimes they are half starred, as in
Fig. 18, where the plaits radiate from just above the pillow.
ON FOOT BOARDS.
These are generally entirely solid wood, but sometimes the foot board
is merely a handsome frame of mahogany containing the same material as
the lining of the bed furniture.
Fig. 11 represents a foot board of wood only.
Fig. 15 represents a foot board starred within the frame with chintz or
calico.
THE HALF-TESTER.
PLATE 22. FIG. 19, 20.
These may be trimmed in a variety of ways, either festoons, as in
Fig. 19, valances, or plain, and cut out in vandykes and scollops, as
in Fig. 20. This last looks pretty and simple, and as it gives the
appearance of great lightness to the head, it is preferable to the
others. The backs should be hung to accord with the outside.
Fig. 19 may be plain, with festoons of the outer material.
Fig. 20, with a simple inside valance, or the back fulled or gathered
into a half star, or set in flutes.
FRENCH POLE BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 21.
This is a compact, pretty shaped bed, and as it can be easily moved
about, or taken to pieces, it is convenient in an invalid’s room as an
extra bed. Two poles which rise from the head and foot board, support
the curtain rod which should be handsomely finished, and might be
fastened on by pushing the ends through the rings or circular holes
formed at the top of the supporters, and large ends screwed on to fix
it firmly. The four curtains have three breadths in each, and are
bound together firmly at the top. Rings must be fastened on, through
which the rod is drawn, and fastened to the supporters. Tassels may be
hung, and cords if preferred. Valances being put round, the drapery is
complete. Sometimes the two curtains, falling one on each side, are
sewed together behind.
THE FRENCH ARROW BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 22.
This bedstead is much the same shape as the pole bed, excepting that
it has no supporters or curtain rod, and therefore, when hung with
drapery, requires being placed near the wall, into which a pin or arrow
is driven, over which the drapery is hung. This shaped bedstead, when
not hung with drapery, is particularly desirable for servants, or for
schools, as the danger of fire is lessened, and if nicely finished and
painted looks neat and respectable, besides being economical and clean.
When hung, sew nine or eleven breadths together according to the size
of the bedstead. Measure the length with a piece of tape, allowing it
to droop as it lies from the top of the pole over the foot board to the
floor. Sew the breadths up all the seams, and then, after dividing the
whole width in half, marking it with a pin, hem the whole, and draw it
up folded in two, sewing it firmly to a case which should be made to
slip on the pole, something like an umbrella case. Another, and perhaps
a better mode, is that of sewing rings to the doubled part thus drawn
up, which will slip on to the pole, the head or knob of which when
screwed on, would prevent the rings from falling off.
FRENCH BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 23.
The drapery to this bed is exactly similar to the arrow French bed,
excepting that it is passed over a hook secured to the ceiling, in
preference to a pole from the wall.
FRENCH BLOCK BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 24.
The drapery for this is also similar to that of the arrow French bed,
excepting that it is fastened with tacks round four sides of a handsome
mahogany block fixed to the ceiling. To this should be added a handsome
valance or deep fringe to hide the fastenings of the drapery.
THE FRENCH CANOPY BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 25.
The bedstead and drapery are as the preceding, but fastened to a head
or crown secured to the wall having round it festoons as a finish.
Sometimes the head is supported by rods from the bedstead. A valance is
added to complete it.
THE TURN-UP BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 26.
This is also useful as an extra bed for invalids, or for small rooms,
as it takes up but little space, can be easily moved, and when turned
up, looks neat and tidy. In the one here represented, the sides are
made to draw out, the legs to unhook, and the top to take to pieces,
so that the whole can be packed in a small compass when not wanted.
In making up the drapery, the back may be full, plain or starred;
the sides plain or plaited, and two curtains sewed on, so made as to
overlap each other a little in front. These curtains loop up at the
sides with cords.
THE PRESS BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 28.
This shuts up still more completely than the turn-up bed, and forms
a chest or toilet table, when not in use; it looks very neat with
a simple toilet cover over the top. These beds are useful on some
occasions, in towns and in small houses, although they are not
generally considered wholesome, being low and rather confined. They are
sometimes lined with glazed calico, and a cover put outside of dimity,
frilled round the top, to which is sewed a piece of the same material,
very much fulled all round, to open in the middle of the front, down
each side of which is put a frill or fringe.
THE STUMP BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 31.
These are principally used by cottagers, and men servants, and require
no drapery, they are called stump bedsteads because the head posts are
short, not being higher than is sufficient to admit of a head board.
Sometimes cottagers attach a kind of curtain to a hook in the wall,
which adds much to their warmth and comfort, and would appear like a
half French bed. This drapery might be two breadths behind, and two
on each side, making six in all, which should be doubled and gathered
to a strong webbing. Baize, calimanco, or cotton check would be very
suitable.
THE TRESTLE BED.
PLATE 22. FIG. 27.
This is the most simple and most common kind of bedstead made, and from
its construction, is not calculated to support a very heavy person, all
the strength depending upon the power of the two pins or screws which
fasten the legs. No drapery is used unless fastened to the wall as in
the above stump bedstead. A head board, with two pins, slips into the
holes at the top.
THE HANGING BED OR COT.
PLATE 22. FIG. 29, 30.
These are excellent things for children, especially where there is a
large family of sons; for officers’ families who are often obliged to
change their residence, they are particularly desirable, on account of
their cheapness, durability, and the little space they occupy. They are
only proper for single beds, but are sufficiently strong for a grown-up
person. They would answer exceedingly well for cottagers, as in the day
time, they might be drawn up to the ceiling, thus affording more room
in the apartment for washing, or performing other household duties.
They are made for the higher classes as follows:—
Procure a strong frame of wood, of about six feet long, and two feet
and a half wide, also two round poles of wood, two feet long and about
two inches in diameter. Get some strong ticking, or if it be covered
and lined, a kind of thick sacking would do, which might have a cover
of chintz, and lining of glazed calico. This sacking must be cut
according to the Plate 22, Fig. 29, allowing in addition to the size of
the frame, three feet at each end, and eighteen inches at the sides.
The ends have a strong hem or case sewed to them, into which the poles
are slipped. The four sides have lace-holes large enough to admit of
strong coloured cord to lace them together. The frame is let into the
square thus formed, having previously fastened to the sides two pieces
of ticking, one sewed on each long side at the bottom.
Put the frame into the square, having, however, first firmly fastened
at the bottom of the square, another piece of ticking, which shall
lace over the frame, down the length of the cot, so as to make a kind
of straight waistcoat, which keeps the frame firmly in place. Observe
that the cot, which is two feet six inches wide at the frame, is sloped
off to two feet at the ends where the poles are admitted, in order to
contract the sides a little, this keeps the clothes in place, and if
for a child, adds much to its safety. Crimson or other coloured ropes
should be employed to hang the cot from under the frame through hems
up the high ends, and out through holes made in the poles, afterwards
to meet at the hook in the ceiling on each side. A strong cord is also
run in at the hem along the long sides of the cot. Fringe may be added
at the bottom, if preferred. They should be hung at the same height
from the ground as common beds, the ropes should be very strong, and
be constantly looked at. They are better when fitted up with two thin
mattresses than with a mattress and bed. When not wanted, they will, if
unlaced, lie flat against a wall in a closet and take but little room.
They are hung from a ring on a hook in the ceiling.
Very little cots might be made with advantage to hang in a carriage, or
within a very large four-post bed, where the mother might attend her
infant without rising in the night to the danger of taking cold.
The expense of a handsomely fitted up cot would be about £2., but a
common one might be made for eight or ten shillings.
There are no further observations to be made on beds, excepting that
the more readily the drapery can be taken off and put on to the
bedstead, the less will be the wear and tear, so that if small loops or
rings could be sewed on the valances, so as to loop over the cornice,
it would be desirable. Once or twice a year bed furniture should be
taken down and well dusted, rubbed with crusts of bread, and sometimes
calendered to keep it in order. On leaving home, the curtains should
be rolled up to the top of the bed and put into linen bags, and the
cornices and valances taken down and covered up.
MATTRESSES.
The first mattress usually laid on the bedstead is made of straw, it
is very thick, and as hard as a board; as these are never made at
home, nothing more will be said about them, excepting that they are
made in a frame, and should be covered with a very strong good tick or
Holland.
The second mattress is made of horse-hair or wool for large beds;
and for children, of chaff, sea-weed, beech leaves, cocoa nut fibre,
paper, and many other things of the sort; chaff and horse-hair appear
the most desirable, from being cool, and neither too soft nor too hard
for comfort. These mattresses are made of various sorts of ticking, of
which linen or cotton stripe, and a kind called cranky tick are most
in use. For the poor, mattresses are often filled with mill-puff, or
flock, and for children, bran might be a good substitute. Mattresses
are made exactly to fit the bedstead, being cut out at the corners to
surround the post, if they intrude into the square of the bedstead.
They have sides sewed all round of one nail and a half or two nails
deep.
In cutting out a mattress, the rule is to allow an extra inch to every
foot, to give room for the stuffing both in length and in width.
These sides are usually cut the selvage-way of the ticking, and are
attached to the top and bottom by means of ferreting or webbing, which
is stitched with strongly waxed whitey brown thread, after which, the
mattress is filled with the stuffing, and then is tufted, as it is
usually called, which is done by passing a packing needle threaded with
strong thread entirely through the thickness of the mattress and again
passing it back at a little distance, and tying the two ends firmly
together. This is repeated at intervals of four nails or more apart, in
a straight row along it. A second line of tufting is now done, still
at four nails apart, letting the stitches fall opposite the middle of
the spaces in the last row, and so on. This secures the stuffing of
the mattress, and keeps it in place, little tufts of worsted are sewed
to these parts thus stitched, to hide the stitches and ornament the
mattress, sometimes mere circles of red leather are sewed on instead.
The price of a straw mattress is from 10_s._ to 30_s._
The price of a wool mattress is from 35_s._ to 60_s._
The price of horse-hair, per lb., is from 1_s._ to 2_s._
The price of mill-puff, per lb. 2_d._
The price of linen tick, per yard, is from 9_d._ to 2_s._ 9_d._
The price of cotton tick, per yard, is from 4½_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._
The price of wool, per lb., is from 6_d._ to 1_s._ 2_d._
BEDS, BOLSTERS, AND PILLOWS.
These are filled with chicken, turkey, goose feathers, and down, for
the higher classes, and mill-puff, which is a kind of cotton, for the
lower classes. The following prices are an average of the expense of
the various articles for making up beds.
Mill-puff, 2½_d._ per lb., of which fifty pounds make a large bed.
Flock, at 3_d._ per lb.
Chicken feathers, at 10_d._ or 1_s._
Grey goose, or turkeys’, at 2_s._ or 2_s._ 6_d._
Best goose, white feathers, at 2_s._ 2_d._ to 3_s._ 6_d._
Down from geese, for pillows, 6_s._ per lb.
Cotton ticking, for beds, at 6_d._ or 8_d._
Linen ticking, for beds, at 1_s._ or 1_s._ 3_d._
Beds are made sometimes with sides, and sometimes without; in the
latter case, nine yards of ticking are sufficient, otherwise eleven
yards. Divide one yard and two nails into four, to make the long sides,
and another yard, divided into four, to make ends; the bed is two
yards and a quarter in length, two breadths above, and two below. The
ticking is waxed with white wax, or rubbed with brown soap, and when
the feathers are in, the sides are bound with the usual binding, or
what is still better, piped throughout.
In making up mill-puff beds, care should be taken to separate dust, and
disentangle it well, before putting it into the ticking.
For a bolster, two yards are required, and for each pillow, one yard.
These should be filled with the softest feathers, and the ticking well
stitched.
Pillows are sometimes covered with calico covers, which tack or button
on underneath the usual pillow cases, mentioned in the article “House
Linen,” and make them look beautifully white and clean.
Every double bed should have three or four pillows, and single ones,
either one or two. Bolsters sometimes have also covers to preserve the
ticking. Pillows are often stuffed with down, or torn pieces of paper
of a quarter of an inch square; this last is said to be particularly
soft and cool.
BLANKETS.
Every bed should have one under blanket, and two or three upper ones.
These last are usually the Witney, whilst the under blanket is of an
inferior sort; they should be thick and light, with a soft nap or wool
upon them. Blankets are generally sold in pairs, or two woven together.
These, for beds must be cut, in which case, the edges are sewed over
in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch, with red, or other coloured
wool, also a kind of circle or star is often worked in the corner with
various coloured wool.
For cribs, it is better not to divide the blankets but lay them on the
crib double, as they come in more usefully as under blankets for beds
afterwards, when uncut. The Witney blanket is considered the best.
The Rose and the Bath are the other varieties.
When not in use, blankets should be folded, and laid under those beds
in use, to keep them aired. Some persons lend blankets to the poor,
in which case, on their being returned, they should be scoured well
and baked in an oven, before they are put by in brown paper bags with
pepper sprinkled over them.
COVERLETS OR COUNTERPANES.
There are various kinds of quilts or counterpanes. Those most known are,
The Marseilles, which sell from 6_s._ to 25_s._
The Imperial, which sell from 9_s._ to 30_s._
The Summer, which sell from 25_s._ to 58_s._
The Toilet cover, or cradle quilt 15_s._ to 42_s._
Those used for servants, are of a dark brown, violet, or grey colour.
Those used by cottagers, are often of patchwork made by them at school,
or in their leisure moments. These quilts are sometimes made of a
succession of hexagons or six-sided pieces of print, at others, birds,
figures, and other devices are cut out and sewed up with various shaped
bits of calico, prints, &c. These quilts are durable when lined, and
may be good work for school children, though they certainly take up a
good deal of time in making.
All counterpanes not in constant use, should be either put by in
drawers, or laid on the bed with the wrong side uppermost.
Having now entered upon each article belonging to the bedstead, it only
remains for us to make the following observation.
It is advisable to cut several small squares of linen, and having wet
them with the marking liquid, to mark upon them the list of every
article belonging to the bed to which the square of calico is to be
attached. These squares should be washed and ironed, and sewed upon
the mattress, bed, bolster, pillows, blankets, and coverlet of each
bedstead, thus:—
BLUE ROOM.
One straw mattress.
One hair ditto.
One feather bed.
Four pillows, one bolster.
One under and three upper blankets.
One counterpane.
Two watch-pockets.
By this method, the bed furniture, if mixed, can easily be sorted and
counted by the mistress or housemaid.
WATCH POCKETS.
These are often made of the same material as the bed-curtains, or of
white muslin, or dimity, or tick ornamented. A few shapes are mentioned
hereafter, in the chapter on cases, bags, &c.
CARPETS.
Those generally known, are as follows:—
Superb Axminster.
Saxony.
Royal velvet pile.
Tournay.
Brussels.
Turkey.
Imperial.
Kidderminster.
Venetian.
Danish Venetian.
Scotch.
Druggets.
Rugs, &c.
All these carpets are expensive and durable, the Brussels is that
most in use for best apartments, and best stair-cases in the present
day, being very durable, and less expensive than most of the others
mentioned in the same list. Their price varies from 4_s._ 6_d._ to
10_s._ 6_d._ per yard. Turkey carpets were formerly in great request
for dining-rooms, and were sometimes used as table cloths in libraries,
which gave a remarkably rich and handsome, though heavy appearance.
The great objection to them is their great weight, which renders it
difficult to shake them. These Turkey carpets look well for years, and
are made in the piece, measuring sometimes ten or more yards long, and
five or more wide. The expense varies according to their size, from
£10. to £80. or more.
Those carpets generally employed for common sitting-rooms, stair-cases,
servants’ apartments, &c. are the following:—
Kidderminster.
Venetian.
Damask Venetian.
Scotch.
Druggets.
Baizes, &c.
The Kidderminster and Damask Venetian are the most desirable of these
inferior carpets; the Scotch and common Venetian being used for
school-rooms and servants’ apartments.
These vary much in price, from 2_s._ to 6_s._ per yard.
Druggets are very wide, being sometimes two yards, and sometimes
four yards. They are chiefly employed to lay over another carpet,
to preserve it when the room is in daily use, and only removed for
company. Sometimes druggets alone are laid, and when of a handsome
brown or marone colour, look exceedingly well. They should be very
tightly stretched on the floor, so as not to present a wrinkle to view.
Carpets are often made in worsted-work upon canvass, and are considered
durable, though the time occupied in making them is great.
A worked border upon canvass, with the arms or crest, with drugget
sewed between, has a very pretty effect for a stair carpet, and might
be quickly done. Borders can be purchased in shops for the same purpose.
There are various modes of making up rugs, but as this belongs more
properly to fancy work, it will not here be mentioned.
Rugs may be knit in various ways also, as will be seen in the chapter
upon knitting.
In making up carpets, observe the following directions, as they are
necessary for their appearance and durability.
Brussels, when made up, should be turned with the wrong side outwards,
with the selvages just touching each other, but not laid one upon the
other. The carpet needle is then passed backwards and forwards, always
taking up both seams at a time, first pointing the needle from, and
next towards the chest. Observe, the alternate stitches are always
taken behind, or at the back of the last stitch, so as to work along
the seam from right to left in a kind of back-stitch fashion. The seam
will be close together and tread down flat. Observe, carefully to
cut out the carpet, and sew it up to match the pattern properly and
exactly, as the slightest mistake or pucker will ruin the appearance of
the whole carpet. There is a kind of thread, called carpet thread, sold
for the purpose, of every colour.
Kidderminster and other carpets are sewed in the usual mode of sewing
seams together, taking care to secure the selvages very firmly
together, taking up every thread.
Druggets. These are turned down once, and herring-boned at the edges,
and sewed up at the seams, as above.
All carpets should be bound with the regular carpet binding at the
edges, or the carpet simply turned down with the binding laid on. This
last plan is the flattest, and answers for that end of the room where
the doors are situated, for them to open and shut more easily upon.
Expensive carpets should be cut as little as possible, therefore,
when a piece is obliged to be cut for the hearth stone, it is better
to slit the piece only at the sides, and having caught the edges over
to prevent their ravelling, the piece or lip should then be turned
in underneath the carpet. By this means, if the carpet is wanted for
another room, the lip might be sewed up neatly and form the square
again.
Carpet rods are very useful things, not only for stair-cases, but for
bed-rooms, or sitting-rooms, to fasten and stretch the carpets on the
floor with. In this case, the rod should be a little longer than the
breadth of the carpet, and a Holland or linen case sewed very firmly
underneath the carpet so as just to come to the edge of it, or even
strong tape loops would answer as well. Run the rod along them, and let
it pass at each end into two or more brass rings or hooks fastened to
the floor.
Matting is used for halls, passages, and sometimes laid beneath the
carpets to preserve them. It should always be neatly bound with red,
green, or other coloured leather.
Carpets should always be mended with a loose kind of untwisted worsted,
called thrums.
[Illustration: PLATE 23.
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5
Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8
Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12
Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 13
Fig. 19 Fig. 14
Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 20 Fig. 24]
WINDOW CURTAINS.
PLATE 23.
The drapery for window curtains, if for sitting-rooms, is generally
attached to one cornice, whether for two, three, or even four windows;
but for bed-rooms, the drapery is always separately hung. Observe for
bed-rooms, that the window curtains should always accord with the
hanging on the bed, both in colour and material, as also in shape.
Those hangings already drawn for bed furniture will be a sufficient
pattern by which to form the corresponding window curtains, therefore
but a few additional patterns for bed-rooms will be explained.
It is desirable to have as little window drapery as possible to family
or secondary rooms, particularly nurseries and servants’ rooms, on
account of their liability to catch fire, especially as toilet tables
are so often situated within the window. In an upper story, curtains
might be dispensed with, using only the valance and corners.
Windows have generally two brass pins or hooks on each side, over which
the curtains are hung or looped.
Curtains should always be cut six or eight nails longer than the length
of the window, to allow for their touching the ground when looped upon
the pin. For a window of three panes, two breadths are sufficient in
each curtain, but for four or five panes, two and a half, or three
breadths, will be necessary for each. They should be often dusted, and
in hot summers, bed-room and even sitting-room curtains might be taken
down and put by till wanted for winter, as the sun fades and makes them
look shabby.
PLATE 23. FIG. 1.
This is very handsome for a sitting-room, or even for a drawing-room, a
kind of straight valance is put behind a rod, to which a deep fringe is
sewed. The curtains with tassels sewed to them at the top, draw along
the rod with large rings. A lace may be laid down the curtains, at one
nail from the edge: this curtain in green and gold looks very handsome.
PLATE 23. FIG. 2.
This style is more suited to a sitting-room or bed-room, being rather
too heavy for a drawing-room.
The cornice is of mahogany or painted wood, to which a plain valance,
cut selvage-way, is fastened. This valance is either scolloped,
vandyked, or cut in any other form at the bottom, and a pattern in
cut velvet or lace is sewed on at the edge, and also at about a nail
above it. Two plain corners are cut, and with the curtains, are also
ornamented at one nail from the edge, with the same decoration as the
valance.
PLATE 23. FIG. 3.
This is very neat for a bed-room, or for a common sitting-room, but
unless of very handsome materials, might be considered too plain for a
best room. To a mahogany cornice is fastened a straight valance, cut
down the selvage, and shaped according to the Plate, or otherwise,
according to taste. It must be bound with another coloured binding, and
handsome tassels sewed on at each point.
PLATE 23. FIG. 4.
This is a very handsome drapery for any room, and is simply a festoon
thrown over a pole, as before explained, with double corners. Fringe
and lace add to the finish.
PLATE 23. FIG. 5.
This is suitable for gothic windows, or for a study or library, it is
very simple, and may be formed to any shape, according to the style of
the room.
The corners are in a piece with the valance, and are cut down the
selvage; a pattern of cut velvet may be laid on at the corners, to give
it relief.
PLATE 23. FIG. 6.
This is a handsome drapery for a drawing or dining-room, and might be
adapted to any number of windows, by continuing the lower cornice, and
providing one or more upper rods, in addition to the one represented in
the Plate. The corners should reach more than half way down the window,
but the middle double piece should be much shorter. Lace and tassels
are required to finish the whole.
The cornice may be black, with brass ends, or entirely brass.
PLATE 23. FIG. 7.
Another very pretty festoon, and suitable for a drawing-room or
elsewhere. The middle part is a festoon, with a point attached to it,
and, on this account, would require two breadths instead of one and a
half, to form the depth required.
PLATE 23. FIG. 9.
This is a beautiful drawing-room window festoon, and requires a more
ornamental brass cornice than usual.
The festoons are all very simple, being cut out as before explained,
excepting that the corners are longer than ordinary, being looped upon
a high curtain pin, so that the ends must be sloped off from one-third,
instead of one half of the material.
Sometimes with three windows, the two inner curtains of the outer
windows are simply muslin, and the middle window has two of muslin, as
well as of the material.
PLATE 23. FIG. 8.
Passage or church windows are generally circular, unless pointed;
in the former case, they should be hung at the top with a piece of
straight material of the depth of half the diameter of the circle,
and sufficiently long to be a little fulled to the outer part of the
circle. The inner part is gathered to a point in the middle; the
curtains simply hang to the rod, ornamented by a little frill, valance,
fringe, or tassels, as taste may direct.
There are many ways of drawing curtains together, but the one now
most adopted is that of bringing them forwards or backwards by means
of one string which at once draws both curtains; the following is an
explanation.
PLATE 23. FIG. 10.
Let A B represent the two rods under the cornice, and behind, or
concealed by the valance. After putting the rings of each curtain upon
its own rod, tie the cord to the ring, No. 1, and pass across through
the rings marked No. 2, over the side pulley of the window, down the
side, C, round the pulley, D, up the side again, and under the top
pulley, and then take it across above the rings, till it comes to
the first ring, No. 1, when it is also passed through it and all the
others towards E, it is next taken round the pulley, H, and outside
the rings, and fastened to the ring, No. 2, in a hard knot.
PLATE 23. FIG. 11.
This is an old fashioned simple curtain still in use in churches, small
houses, and for housekeepers’ rooms. The curtain is in as many breadths
as is required for the width of the window, and of the proper length.
The top is nailed to the cornice, and small loops or rings are put down
the seams of the breadths, at equal distances (say about four nails
from each other). Through these rings are passed cords which unite in
one long cord, and on pulling this cord, the whole curtain draws up,
forming as many festoons as there are breadths, or rather lengths of
rings down it. This cord must be wound round and round two pins or
hooks placed at the side of the window, at about six nails apart.
Other curtains are passed backwards and forwards like bed-curtains, or
have a cord on each side, to draw them separately; in which case, it is
passed through all the rings, being fastened to the last or innermost
ring.
MUSLIN CURTAINS.
These are put within the outer curtains in drawing-rooms, dining-rooms,
and sometimes even for bed-rooms. They serve as a great shade to the
best curtains, both from dust and sun, and have besides a neat, clean,
and rather dress appearance. Many persons take down their chintz
curtains when they put up muslin ones.
Muslin curtains are generally made of book-muslin, though sometimes
mull or jaconet have been employed. They are made with deep hems and
rings at the top, and so arranged as to fall towards the inside of the
window. Curtains are sometimes knit or net of cotton, they look very
neat and pretty, and are besides very durable.
LITTLE HALF CURTAINS.
PLATE 23.
These are much in use for the lower windows of town houses, to prevent
persons from looking into the rooms, and are generally made to reach
half way up to the second pane, or merely to the first. They are made
of muslin, or a kind of canvass, and sometimes, though very rarely of
chintz.
FULL CURTAIN.
PLATE 23. FIG. 12.
This is simply cut in as many breadths as wanted to full it to the
window, a frill is made near the top by turning down a nail or more,
and making a runner, into which the tape is run, to draw it up to the
size required, this tape is looped at each end and fastened on to two
hooks at the sides.
ROD CURTAIN.
PLATE 23. FIG. 13.
This is a favourite and very neat pattern, and is made by sewing six or
more breadths together according to the size of the window, of eight or
ten nails deep. They are hemmed at the top and bottom, and two gilt or
wooden rods are passed through the hems, fulling the curtain well upon
them, after which, the rods exactly fit into the window frames.
PLATE 23. FIG. 14.
By way of variety these rods are sometimes put in at the sides, instead
of top and bottom.
PLATE 23.
Sometimes these curtains are fixed in a frame, exactly to fit the width
of the window, in which case they are often starred like a bed foot
board, and look exceedingly neat and pretty.
WINDOW BLINDS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 15.
These are generally made of linen or long lawn, and sometimes of
Holland, calico, painted print, green canvass or gauze, or calimanco.
If possible, procure the material of the exact breadth of the window,
allowing for a good turning in, to herring-bone down, as blinds wear
and set far better without seams, and with the side herring-boned.
They should have tape loops or a case for the rod to slip in, and not
be nailed on, as the blind is so apt to wear and tear when taken off
for washing. Sometimes a small ring is fastened to the blind at the
bottom on each side, through which a cord runs, and is nailed tightly
top and bottom of the window, this contrivance always makes the blind
draw up straightly. A hem is made at the bottom, to admit of the stick,
and a cord and tassel generally fastened to the middle, by which it may
be drawn down. A cord moving round a pulley at the top, and a window
crank at the bottom, enable it to be drawn up and down at pleasure.
CHAIR, SOFA, AND OTHER COVERS.
When chairs and sofas are fitted up with damask, merino, stuff, horse
hair, or other material that does not wash, they are generally covered
with Holland, chintz, or glazed calico, which protects them from dust
and dirt, and are easily removed, when required for company. Holland
covers are the most durable, but look cold; chintz, unless very strong,
should be lined with thin glazed calico. The cover should be made
exactly to fit the chair or sofa, with or without piping at the edge,
and with loops sewed on three of the sides underneath, and a pair
of strings on the fourth side; the cover is firmly fastened down by
passing one of the strings through the three loops, and making it tie.
Ottomans generally have the covers to fit along beneath the edging of
wood, in which case, they must be pinned to the stuffing with very
strong pins, which from their length are called sofa pins.
ARM CHAIRS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 16.
It is a good plan to make a kind of case of Holland to fit half way
down the cushion, A B C D, which protects the cover from being soiled
by the head, on leaning back. Each arm chair should have two or three
of these cases for wash and wear.
SOFAS.
These, besides being covered, should have a length of Holland of one
breadth, and about one yard, or more long, for the feet of any person
lying down to be placed upon.
Where there is an invalid in the house, constantly resting upon the
sofa, it is very desirable to make a little flat pillow, put into a
muslin cover, frilled all round, to lay the head upon, thus keeping the
cushions perfectly clean and neat.
DIVAN.
PLATE 23. FIG. 17.
This is a kind of long sofa, without either back or sides, and may be
made to open, which forms a very convenient box for large engravings,
drawings, &c., &c. The cover should be all in one piece behind, but in
front, and at the sides, the top should be unconnected with the lower
part, to admit of its opening, so that in fact, the cover must look
as much like a box that opens as possible; loops sewed to the edge
might fix it into some hooks inside. These divans are very useful for
bed-rooms, and would hold bonnets or furs, or mourning, or any thing
else, and at the same time, act as a sofa also.
FOOTSTOOLS AND HASSOCKS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 18.
These are made in various ways, and may be got up very cheaply at
home. The most simple and one of the prettiest for a bed-room or even
a sitting-room is a cloth or velvet hassock braided over, or otherwise
ornamented. It is cut circular both top and bottom, a straight side is
sewed in between, and ears or handles fastened on, by which they may be
carried. These are very soft for young children to sit upon.
ANOTHER KIND.
This is made of two or four bricks tied firmly together, wrapped round
with strong sacking, and then neatly covered with cloth, and if not in
good shape a little extra stuffing may be added. These footstools are
very useful for nurseries, school-rooms, or for servants at work.
CHURCH BASSES.
PLATE 23. FIG. 20.
Flat circular ones are often in use. Sometimes straw ones are covered
with green or crimson cloth, and look very neat. Basses may be filled
with mill-puff, straw, chaff, bran, or bits of cloth, &c. Some persons
prefer a simple cushion or flat pillow to kneel upon, in which case,
they may be filled with feathers.
CHURCH SEATS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 24.
Church pews are generally lined with cloth, and fastened by brass nails
and binding laid on. The cushions, Plate 23, Fig. 24, are oblong, and
made like a very soft mattress.
They have pieces of cloth, bound round and sewed to them in front, to
give an air of comfort and neatness to the seat.
The ground or floor is generally covered with a drugget of the same
colour as the lining of the seat.
TABLE COVERS.
These may be made variously at home, or else cloth or linen covers may
be procured at the mercers’ shops. Those made at home are generally of
cloth or silk, and sometimes, though very rarely, of satin or velvet.
Cloth ones are generally bound with binding, and a lace laid on at a
nail from the edging. Velvet, cut in leaves or patterns, is sometimes
laid on; different kinds of coloured cloth, cut in the shape of oak
leaves, or according to taste, sewed on round the edge look very
pretty. Patchwork of silks on a black ground also looks handsome.
SCREENS.
PLATE 23. FIG. 21.
These may be made by merely hemming a piece of rich silk at the top,
through which a rod is passed, which is secured to the pole of the
screen. The bottom of this silk is hemmed neatly and has a deep fringe
set on. The silk should be a good deal fulled, when on the rod, to look
handsome.
Others are made by plaiting or fluting rich silk in straight lines,
Fig. 22, or to radiate from the centre, which is confined within a
frame of rosewood or mahogany.
Large folding screens are made for putting near to doors, to prevent
draughts of air, and are useful to place near a warm bath, especially
for infants or delicate persons, so as to enable them to dress free
from cold air: small screens of two folds are very convenient to place
by every washing stand, when two persons occupy the same room. The
frames, after being made by a carpenter, should be finished up at home.
They are usually covered with canvass, Holland, calimanco, chintz,
twill, or other material. Black Holland looks very neat. These screens
make very good scrap books for children, by being pasted over with
riddles, prints, caricatures, &c., &c.