plaits, as in Fig. 3. Sometimes in gathers, brought much in front, as
Fig. 4. Sometimes in double plaits. Sometimes in plaits, stitched down,
as in Fig 5.
VARIOUS SHAPES OF WRISTBANDS.
The most common shaped wristband, and one of the neatest, is that which
is perfectly straight, and stitched neatly all round.
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 1, 13.
Fig. 13 is a favourite shape, especially for boys. It is pointed;
care must be taken in stitching it, to make the right side lie on the
outside, when turned back, as in Fig. 1 (see the wristband attached to
the sleeve).
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 11.
This is a very neat shape, and accords with the collar of the shirt,
Fig. 6. It is stitched all round, neat button-holes made, and buttons
sewed on.
ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 12.
This is remarkably pretty, and is much worn. The wristband when
unturned is nearly as wide again as its proper width, not including the
stitched hems.
BINDERS AND LININGS.
Shirts should always have binders or linings, and these vary in a few
particulars. The binder is intended to strengthen that part of the
shirt brought most into play by the movement of the arms, especially at
the back, and also prevent the wear and tear of the braces.
Gentlemen’s shirts have usually the binders very narrow, so as to leave
a pretty wide space between each binder and the front, as in Fig. 4.
It is however thought preferable by prudent wives, either to increase
the width of the binder, so as to join the front, as in Fig. 5, or else
to have a second binder or lining smaller than the first, between the
regular lining and the front (see A, Fig. 6).
GENTLEMEN’S AND BOYS’ COLLARS.
These vary so very much, according to the make of the neck and chin, as
also the taste of the wearer, that only a few general patterns will be
introduced as guides.
Many gentlemen prefer having a narrow band sewed on to the shirt, as
in Fig. 5, about three-quarters of a nail deep, on which they fasten
the collar, by letting the shirt button slip through a button-hole made
in the middle of the collar.
Collars are always of double lawn or linen.
A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 1,
is a neat finish to a shirt, being a simple broad band back-stitched,
and a fine cambric or lawn frill crimped and sewed at the top. The band
should be one nail deep, when made up.
AN OLDER BOY’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 2.
This is a very pretty collar also for the children of friends, being
particularly simple. It is, when made up, about two nails and a half
deep. As it falls over the jacket, observe to stitch it properly. It
would suit the wristbands in Fig. 12.
OTHER COLLARS FOR OLDER BOYS.
PLATE 18. FIG. 3,
Is merely a straight band about one nail deep, and Fig. 4 is the same a
little curved, so as to be deeper and more pointed in front than at the
back, which gives a light appearance.
A MAN’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 6.
See Fig. 6. This is a very neat collar, for an elderly gentleman
especially, and when made up, is about two nails and a quarter deep.
The front is curved, and rather deeper than the back (say half a nail):
to this collar should be worn wristbands, Fig. 11.
ANOTHER COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 14.
This is a neat shape, but, as it is doubtful whether it would suit
every one, it should be cut in paper, and tried on. The Plate only
represents one half, the letter A being the centre. It should be sewed
into a band.
A NEAT GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 15.
This is the most approved sort, and may be sewed to the shirt, or to
a loose band. The half or gills, are cut crosswise of the cloth, and
four of them make one collar, as they are double; in sewing them on the
band, two places are left to form a kind of long button-hole, through
which the strings are put when tying it on. A button-hole in the middle
of the collar, enables it to be firmly fastened to the shirt, as also
do the two strings sewed to the band. Fig. 17 is one gill, and Fig. 18,
the band.
ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 27.
This is also sewed upon a band, and is a remarkably pretty shape, if
cut according to the plan of the drawing, on which the measurements of
the nails are marked. The band, Fig. 28, has in it two button-holes; it
is about one nail deep, and eight nails long. The collar is cut all in
one length, and slit down in the middle to within half a nail of the
bottom, thus making the slit one nail deep.
A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR.
PLATE 18. FIG. 20, 21.
These are particularly pretty collars for little boys of from six to
eight or nine. They are made of double Irish linen stitched round, and
made to fall over the dress. Frills are sometimes attached to them, and
suit young children very well; two or three button-holes are made in
them, to attach them to the shirt. A broad black ribbon is generally
worn with them round the neck.
A MAN’S FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 19.
These are worn by men and boys, to put on over a soiled or tumbled
shirt, to give a neat appearance; they are, however, seldom used, it
being much better to put on a clean shirt at once. It has two sides
of fine lawn, with a front of cambric, which is plaited or gathered,
according to pleasure, with a false hem down the middle, and buttons,
so as to appear to open. This is hollowed under the neck, to the depth
of a nail; two neck-gussets are attached, of one nail and a half square.
The gussets and front are sewed to a band or collar eight nails long,
and about one nail and a half in depth before it is made up.
A BOY’S CHEAT OR FRONT.
PLATE 18. FIG. 23, 24, 25.
This is a kind of habit-shirt, to which a collar with a frill is
attached. Fig. 23 is the collar, which should be neatly stitched, and a
frill of fine lawn or cambric, half a nail in the whole depth, set on
round it. Fig. 24 is the habit-shirt of the dimensions marked on the
Plate, and Fig. 5 is the cheat completed, when sewed together.
A GENTLEMAN’S STOCK.
PLATE 18. FIG. 26.
Gentlemen’s stocks are worn round the neck over the collar, and are
made of stuff, muslin, horse-hair or buckram: the Figure is the shape
of half of one. The halves are sewed firmly together up the centre (see
M); they are bound round the edge with leather, and covered with satin,
mode, or rich twilled silk. They are sometimes made, as in Fig. 29,
with a fold of silk in the middle, through which two ends are passed;
these are of one piece of silk, cut the cross way, and are four nails
broad, and seven nails long, rounded a little at the ends.
CRAVATS.
They are generally made of fine muslin, and are the shape of a half
handkerchief, being cut from a square of eighteen nails.
CLERGYMAN’S DRESS.
The cassock, the gown, the surplice, the badge or sash, the scarf or
hood, and the bands, constitute the chief.
THE CASSOCK.
PLATE 18. FIG. 34, 35.
It is made sometimes of stuff, sometimes of rich black silk, in the
following manner:—Cut four breadths of silk, one yard and a half long
each. Two breadths form the front, and are sewed together; after which,
a gore is cut from each outer side, the width of half the breadth at
the top, sloped to a point at the bottom, by which means, when reversed
and the seams are sown, the front is increased at the bottom to three
breadths, while at the top it is reduced to one.
The other two breadths form the back; they are gored in the same
manner, excepting that the gore is only a quarter of a breadth wide at
the bottom.
The shoulder is hollowed down two nails. The shoulder is two and a half
or three nails long. The arm-hole is three nails deep. The arm-hole is
cut into the stuff one nail. The collar is six nails long, four nails
wide behind, and two nails wide in front.
The sleeve is shaped like a coat sleeve, with two seams down it,
three-quarters of a yard long, and the whole width of the silk, which
just admits of its being shaped off in the width. The wristband is four
nails long, and about two nails wide. The pocket is six nails long, and
just the width of the breadth of silk, which, when doubled, forms it.
In making up, run and fell the seams very neatly, making the two gores
fall together between the front and back breadths.
The hem down the opening in front, is half a nail broad.
The back has a piece of sufficient width cut out from the top, A, to
the waist, B (Fig. 35), to admit of its setting plain to the figure,
and from the waist the skirt is left open; the extra fulness may be
confined in two large plaits behind.
The top of the front is cut on each side to a point, and on each point
is a little loop or button-hole; one loop fastens to a button inside
near the collar, see A (Fig. 34), and the other outside, to a button at
the opposite side of the neck (see B).
The collar is sewed on to the back of the cassock, so as to leave off
on each side, just at the turn in front, thus allowing plenty of space
for the bands. The pocket is put in straight, under the right arm,
about four nails below the arm-hole (see the dotted line, Fig. 34).
The sleeves are lined with black twilled cotton, the wristbands are
also lined and turned up.
A cross-way piece of silk is laid on at the bottom of the collar of the
cassock inside, and also in front at A B (Fig. 34).
THE GOWN.
PLATE 18. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40.
This is made of fine bombazine, and contains four breadths, of nineteen
nails long, and four gores of the same length, and three nails and a
half wide at the bottom, sloped to a point at the top.
Two of these breadths fall behind, next are sewed the two gores, one on
each side, and then the one breadth to hang in front on each side.
The sleeves are one yard long, and, when open, thirteen nails wide. At
the end they are shaped according to Fig. 39, 40: the end, A B, being
but three nails wide, and a piece cut out at C, at four nails from
A. At five nails from the shoulder, a slit is made in front (see S),
through which the arms appear, whilst the remainder of the sleeve is
sewed up all round. At the back of the sleeve, two gores of one nail
and a half wide, and two nails and a half long, are put in.
The shoulder-piece is cut according to Fig. 36.
The distance from A to B being three nails, and the depth of the sides,
C to E, D to E two nails and a half, while that in the middle is only
one nail and a quarter.
In making up, after sewing the seams, &c. together, and making a hem
of about one nail broad all round, the two back breadths of the skirt
should be fulled into the middle of the shoulder-piece. This fulling
is biassed down at about the distance of one nail and a half below the
first gathering. The two gores are set in on each side into the sleeve,
which is set into the shoulder-piece, and also biassed; the other
breadth comes in front.
The shoulder-piece is lined with buckram and silk, or black glazed
calico, to make it more durable.
THE SURPLICE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 32, 33.
This is made of fine Irish linen, one yard wide, and has in it four
breadths of one yard and a half long; two breadths being behind, and
one on each side of the opening in front. Besides these four breadths,
a gore, three nails wide and carried up to a point, is put between the
front and back breadths, up to below the arm.
The straight part of the gore comes in front. The sleeve, Fig. 33, is
one yard and one nail long, and the whole width of the linen in the
breadth. The sleeve has two gussets in it; that in front of the sleeve,
or nearest the wrist, is thirteen nails square; the other gusset, which
also forms part of the arm-hole, is five nails and a half square.
The collar is thirteen nails long, and five nails and a half in its
whole width.
In making up, run and fell the seams, letting in the gores, observing
to put the straight part in front. Hem down the fronts half a nail
deep, and at the bottom one nail. The sleeve is very peculiar, and
requires attention in making up (see Fig. 32, 33). The large gusset
is put into the sleeve towards the wrist, so as to hang down very low
below the arms. This gusset is rounded off at the corner, A; and forms
the other corner of the gusset, B, along the doubled part, B A, cut
open a piece large enough to admit of the small gusset being sewed into
it; D is the doubled part of each gusset. The whole of the top of the
sleeve is gathered up into the neck at the collar, while part of the
side of the sleeve and the small gusset form the part that fits into
the arm-hole of the surplice; the skirt is all fulled into the collar,
together with the top of the two sleeves, and then nicely biassed down
in two rows below the collar.
The collar is stitched all round like that of a shirt.
THE SASH OR BADGE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 30.
It is made of rich black silk or satin.
It is the whole breadth of the silk in depth, and three-quarters of a
yard long. It is folded in three or four regular plaits until it is
about two nails broad; these plaits are confined at the ends by sewing
them to double pieces of silk (see A), which are cut out two nails
square, and rounded off at the outer ends, to a half circular form.
Strings of ribbon of 3d. width, are sewed to these ends, which tie
round the waist.
THE SCARF OR HOOD.
This is made of silk, but of such various forms, depending on the
degree of the wearer, and the college where he has been educated, that
it is needless to enter upon the subject in detail.
THE BANDS.
PLATE 18. FIG. 31.
They are made of the finest cambric, and are about two nails deep, and
one nail wide when hemmed. The hem being a quarter of a nail deep. They
should be a little hollowed at the top, to fit the neck. The two bands
are sewed to a tape in the inside, which ties round the neck.
THE CLERK’S GOWN.
PLATE 18. FIG. 41, 42.
The clerk’s gown is made of black stuff or calimanco.
Cut four breadths of about one yard and a half long; these breadths
when sewed together, leaving one open for the front, are biassed
behind, from the middle of the second to the middle of the third
breadth; this biassing is in three rows from the collar, the first row
being one quarter of a nail below it, and the two others at one nail
distant from each other.
The shoulders are next sloped from the remainder, like those of a
pinafore, being three nails and a half long, and sewed up. The arm-hole
is cut into the front breadth at the distance of one nail beyond the
first seam, and is five nails long. The shoulder-flaps are one nail and
a half deep, by five long.
The sleeve is the whole width of the breadth, about six nails wide when
doubled, and is fifteen or sixteen nails long; at six nails from the
top, the slit is cut in the sleeves of two nails deep on each side of
the top of the arm. The bottom of the sleeve is sewed up together, and
when done, instead of sewing them as the sleeve would naturally lie,
the stuff at the bottom is differently folded, so as to make the two
creases lie together, and thus distorts or twists the sleeve.
Strings are put to the collar, which is cut like Fig. 13, Plate 16. A
broad hem is made in front, and at the bottom.
CHILDREN’S BONNETS.
PLATE 19.
The first bonnet for infants after the hood (see Chap. 4, in
baby-linen), should be soft and warm, and till they are two or three
years old, children should wear them of cloth, merino, silk, satin,
print, or calico, in preference to straw, or pasteboard. Bonnets should
be light but warm, and for young children especially, should have
little trimming or ornament. A few pretty and simple shapes for both
the upper and lower classes are here given and explained.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SIX YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 1, 2, 3.
This may be made of cloth, merino, chintz, or nankeen, with cotton
runners. It is in three parts, the brim, front or poke, the crown, and
the round patch.
Cut first a paper pattern the whole size of each part of the bonnet,
the Plate represents but half, therefore double the paper and cut it by
the figure. Your paper must be five nails wide by four long, for the
poke, Fig. 2.
Measure along the top, A B, two and three-quarter nails, the point, C,
is exactly half way down the side, two nails from the top and bottom;
the point, G, is two nails from the side, and one and a half nails from
the top; curve along B G C. E is two and a half nails from the corner;
from C to E, must be gradually sloped or rounded: go on, sloping it
easily, up to F, which is one and a half nails from the top; from F to
A, is quite straight.
The crown comes next; your paper must be four nails square, when
doubled at D. From the corner to H, is half a nail, from H to I, two
nails, slope gradually to K, which is two and a quarter nails from the
top: cut in a straight line from K to L, which is situated two nails
from the corner, and again in a straight line from L to M, one and a
quarter nail from the bottom. From M to H, is slightly curved. The
patch is made to fit the crown.
[Illustration: PLATE 19
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3
Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10
Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15
Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19
Fig. 20 Fig. 21 Fig. 22
Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26
Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29
Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32
Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35
Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 39
Fig. 40 Fig. 41 Fig. 42 Fig. 43
Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 46 Fig. 47
Fig. 48 Fig. 49 Fig. 51
Fig. 50 Fig. 52
Fig. 53 Fig. 54 Fig. 55
Fig. 56 Fig. 57
Fig. 59 Fig. 60 Fig. 58
Fig. 61 Fig. 62 Fig. 63
Fig. 64 Fig. 65 Fig. 66]
In making up, a lining is cut out exactly the size of the outside, run
the two together on the wrong side, at the edge of the brim, and turn
them; then run cotton cords between the lining and the outside, as in
the Plate, and two or three are put round the edge to give it firmness:
runners are also made in the crown and the patch, the latter having a
cord all round it, and they are then sewed strongly together, the part,
H M, fitting into B G C, and the patch into I K. A curtain, one nail
and a half in depth, is put on rather full behind, and strings of the
chintz, or calico neatly hemmed, or of ribbon will complete it.
The size here given is for a child five years old, but it is a useful
kind of bonnet for those much younger.
CHILD’S DRAWN BONNET.
PLATE 19. FIG. 4, 5, 6.
This is usually made of silk, satin, or glazed calico.
The poke or front (Fig. 5), is an oblong, which is cut two or more
nails down the selvage, according to the depth desired, and of such a
length (cut width-way of the material), as will be two and a half times
the length from ear to ear. This oblong is hemmed at each side, and
bobbins put in to draw it up: two runners are made at equal distances
between to draw up. The crown or head-piece, Fig. 6, is in one piece,
and is also an oblong, about one nail deeper than the poke, and a
fourth longer. Make runners down each side, and three or four equal
distances between.
In making up the bonnet, the poke is drawn up to the proper size, and
a double piping laid round it. The crown is then formed by drawing up
the first runner as close as possible, and the second sufficiently so
to make it flat and circular. The remainder is drawn to the proper
shape to form the head-piece, being less drawn at each succeeding
runner to make it wider at the bottom. Lay on a band of silk piped at
each end, and sew it firmly round, and then attach the poke to it. Next
make a soft lining to the head-piece, and a circular piece of wool in
muslin may be attached to the crown, to keep it in shape. A curtain and
strings complete the bonnet. A quilling of ribbon round the edge, and a
rosette at the side, give a greater finish.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 10.
This is a remarkably neat little bonnet; it is in four parts. The
poke is a plain piece two nails and a half deep, by ten nails and a
half long, sloped off at the outer edge one nail and a half at each
end, it is ornamented with cotton runners, quilted or braided; cut a
strip, Fig. 8, nine nails long by one nail and a half wide, which must
have a runner at each edge, and the same in rows across, to give it
firmness, if it is not quilted or braided; the third part is another
strip sixteen nails long, and three nails and a quarter wide at the
widest part, sloped off nearly to a point at each end, Fig. 10; the
horse-shoe, two nails and a quarter long, and one nail and three
quarters broad at the top, is lined and has a cord run all round the
edge. The curtain is one nail and a half deep, put on rather full.
In making up, sew the quilted poke or front strongly to the straight
strip, Fig. 8; gather the sloped strip, Fig. 10, at each edge, set
it on one side into the straight piece, and on the other into the
horse-shoe, fulling it more in front than at the sides. Put on the
curtain, and the bonnet is finished. It draws up behind to the side of
the head; here it is represented as undrawn.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD TWO YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.
This is well adapted for a child’s first or second bonnet, and looks
well, made of coloured kerseymere or Indiana braided or worked in
chain-stitch.
To cut out the poke, take a piece of paper, which when doubled is four
nails long by two and a half nails wide (see Fig. 12), the doubled
part from D to B, is two nails long; slope off gradually from A to E,
beginning the greatest sloping at F, which is about half way down the
side; the point E is one nail and a half from the corner, continue
sloping to C, which is about one nail above the bottom of your paper;
the curve, B C, is parallel to, or even with the curve, A F E. The
head-piece, Fig. 13, is cut from a paper, which when folded is three
nails long and two broad; from G to H, the doubled part, is one nail,
from G to L, two nails and a quarter; cut a slightly curved line from
L to K, the point K, being half a nail from the corner, next cut quite
straight to J, being three-quarters of a nail above the angle or
corner, sweep gradually from J to H. Fig. 14 represents half the crown;
D is the doubled part, and is four nails long from M to N; the part
from N to O is four and a half nails, the rest from O to M, is cut like
a quarter of a circle. Fig. 15 is the part that supports or holds up
the crown behind, the doubled part, U P, is two nails and a half long,
from U to T is two nails and a quarter, curve it gently about half a
nail; from the corner to T is half a nail; from T to S is one nail and
a half, S being half a nail from the side of the square; the top of R,
the next vandyke is two nails in a straight line from the bottom. These
vandykes are about one nail deep.
The Plate shows sufficiently clearly how this bonnet is made up, to
dispense with any further description, except to say that the crown,
Fig. 14, is evenly gathered into the head-piece, Fig. 13, and the
back-piece, Fig. 15. The curtain is put on, strings and a small bow may
be added behind.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD THREE YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 16, 17, 18, 19.
This bonnet is very generally worn; the one represented in the Plate
is for a little girl about three years old, though older and younger
children would find it both suitable and comfortable; it is made of
cloth, print, or nankeen, lined, and with runners in every part. It is
in three pieces; to cut out the poke, Fig. 19, take a piece of paper,
which, when folded in two, is four nails long and two nails and a
quarter broad. D is the doubled part; from A to B is three nails, it is
slightly curved; A being about one quarter of a nail from the top and
half a nail from the side, next cut in nearly a straight line to C, and
continue the curving to E, which is half a nail from the corner; from B
to E, in a straight line, is two nails and a quarter; cut in a straight
direction from E to F, the latter being one quarter of a nail above the
corner; from A to F is one nail and three-quarters.
The head-piece, Fig. 17, when doubled (D being the folded part), is two
nails and a half long, and two nails at the deepest part, which is to
go in the front, sloped off to one nail and a half for the back. The
crown is merely a horse-shoe; Fig. 18 is two nails and a half long, one
nail and three-quarters at the top, and sloped off one quarter of a
nail on each side, so as to make it only one nail and a quarter at the
bottom.
In making up, the runners may be put in simply as in the Plate, or
arranged in a pattern, or the bonnet may be quilted, but there must be
two or three runners round the edge, and inner part of the poke, at the
top and bottom of the head-piece, and all round the horse-shoe.
Put on a full curtain of one nail and a half deep.
BONNET FOR A CHILD FOUR YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 20, 21, 22.
This is a neat little bonnet with a stiff front, and is cut out as
follows:—
For the pattern of the front, Fig. 20, let your paper, when folded in
two, be three nails and a half long, by three nails broad, it may be
rounded or left square at the ends, according to fancy, D being the
doubled part; this front or poke is made of stiff pasteboard.
The crown, Fig. 22, is seven nails long at the doubled part, D, and
six nails long at the bottom, A B, cut in a straight line, A F, for
two nails, and again straight, F E, for three nails, then round it
gradually up to C.
Before making up, cut out two pieces of calico, print, silk, or other
material, the size of the poke, Fig. 21, then run them neatly together
at the edge, and up the ends, and slip the pasteboard in; hem the
bottom of the crown, Fig. 22, A B, and up the ends, A F, for the
curtain. Hem from F to E, and make a runner about half a nail within
the edge up to C, through which a bobbin must be passed, and drawn up
to the width of the poke; it must be sewed strongly to the outside
of the front, letting the little frill lie over it, as in the Plate,
forming a sort of trimming; the lining of the poke must be only turned
in, and slightly tacked down, so that the pasteboard may be easily
taken out when the bonnet is washed. A runner is made across the back
of the crown, about two nails above F E G, through which tapes are
passed: the ends of the lower ones are sewed a little way along the
poke, and when the bonnet is fitted to the head, these runners are
drawn to the proper size. Put on hemmed strings of the same material.
SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD, THREE, FOUR, OR FIVE YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26.
This is a school child’s common bonnet, it may be made of print,
gingham, or nankeen, and is in three parts. The head-piece, Fig. 24,
when folded in two, is seven nails long, and three nails wide at the
doubled and widest part, D, sloped off to one nail and a half at the
bottom. The poke, Fig. 26, when doubled, is two nails and a half broad,
by three nails and a half long, and a little rounded from A to B. Fig.
25 is the horse-shoe, two nails long, and two nails broad at the top,
sloped off to one nail and three-quarters at the bottom.
In making up, the front is wadded or quilted, with a cotton runner
at the outer edge, and two or three at the inner edge, to give it
firmness; a runner is also put in round the horse-shoe. The front of
the crown is gathered evenly to the poke, the horse-shoe set in, and a
curtain set on behind.
When worn, the front of the bonnet is turned up, as in the Plate.
ANOTHER SOFT BONNET FOR A YOUNG CHILD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 27, 28, 29.
This is also a school child’s bonnet, and may be made of any soft or
washing material.
Fig. 29 represents the poke, which, when doubled at D, is three nails
and a half long, by three nails wide. The crown, Fig. 28, is six nails
wide at the bottom, and seven nails at its longest part, rounded off
on each side; three runners are made at the bottom of it, about a nail
apart.
The poke is quilted, wadded, or run with cotton, and the crown sewed
to it, rather fuller in the centre in front, than at the sides; the
runners are drawn up, and tied at the proper size, and upon the lower
one a curtain, one nail and a half or two nails deep, is set, and
extends a little on each side upon the ends of the front or brim.
HATS AND CAPS.
PLATE 19.
Hats and caps for young boys should be made of soft materials, similar
to bonnets for little girls; as they become older, their hats must
of course be stronger and stiffer; some of both sorts will here be
described, as well as travelling and other caps for grown-up persons.
PORRINGER CLOTH CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 30.
This is an extremely simple cap for young boys; it is made of cloth
or merino, and consists of three pieces. The band, which is merely a
piece of cloth half a nail deep, and sufficiently long to go round the
child’s head, say, eight nails and a half, or nine nails long; the
head-piece, which is also about nine nails long, before being joined
up, and one nail and a half deep, is made with runners in an upright
direction or across the cloth at regular distances, which give a degree
of firmness to the cap; the round patch or crown is about one nail and
a half across, with a runner made round the edge of it. When made up,
it should be lined with demet or flannel and soft calico.
SOFT HAT FOR A YOUNG CHILD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 31, 32.
This little hat looks very pretty made of glazed cambric muslin or of
calico, either white or coloured; if wanted for winter wear, it may be
made of merino, cloth, or kerseymere, plain or braided.
For the brim, Fig. 32, cut a circle five nails across, with a hole in
the centre of it two nails across, for the head, a little may be sloped
off from the back, or not, according to pleasure; the crown is one nail
and a quarter deep, and nine nails long before it is joined up, and the
circle or patch is made to fit exactly. When the hat is made of glazed
calico, it is lined with the same, and runners of cotton put in, either
simply or in a pattern. A strap or ribbon is attached on each side,
from about half way up the crown to about half the breadth of the brim,
to keep it up and in its place. Strings are sewed at the inside.
SOFT CAP FOR A YOUNG BOY.
PLATE 19. FIG. 33.
This cap is made of glazed calico, white or coloured, or of any other
soft light material, with runners in it; the brim is cut in the shape
of Fig. 39, it is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a half
broad at the deepest part, sloped off as in the Plate; the crown is one
nail and a quarter deep, and from eight to nine nails long before being
sewed up; the circle of course is made to fit it.
ANOTHER CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 34.
This is only a variety of the preceding cap; the brim is cut like Fig.
35, and is four nails long, and one nail deep, at the broadest part in
front, sloped off at the ends; the Plate shews the way in which the
runners are put in.
CAP FOR AN INFANT BOY.
PLATE 19. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39.
This is a remarkably pretty cap for an infant, after he has left off
his hood; it is made of white or coloured satin, kerseymere, or merino.
The brim, Fig. 39, is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a
half deep, and sloped as in the Plate, the head-piece is a full nail
deep when folded in small plaits, and eight nails and three-quarters
long before it is sewed up; the little flap or piece behind, Fig. 38,
is about one nail deep; the longest part of it, or that to be turned
up, is two nails and three-quarters long; that fastened to the hat is
one nail and three-quarters; it is sloped at each end. The square or
top of the hat, is two nails and a half every way; four other pieces
must be cut one nail deep, and two nails and three-quarters wide at the
top, sloped at each side down to two nails at the bottom.
In making up, take a piece of buckram of the size of the head-piece,
lay it upon a demet or thin wadding, and flute the kerseymere upon it,
putting a fine silk cord, or a piece of coarse stay or netting silk
between the flutes.
The crown must next be prepared; ornament the square according to
fancy, working the pattern in spots, either in braid, or in stay or
netting silk; line this also with buckram, demet, and silk, to each
side of the square, sew the widest side of each of the four pieces
above described, these pieces having previously been lined, as before
mentioned, sew the corners of the four firmly together, inlaying a
piping; the head-piece is then put on, next set on the back-piece, Fig.
38, this is lined with silk or satin, in the following manner:—After
the buckram is put in, the lining is sewed to it, and not being sloped
at the narrow end of the kerseymere, it allows of being fulled or
plaited at the part nearest the hat. The brim is finished in the same
manner, the satin lining being plain at the edge, and gathered to the
head-piece; it has also demet and buckram within the lining, and is
worked in a similar manner to the square, upon the front or turned up
part, which is of kerseymere. Put a silk, calico, or muslin lining into
the head, and a silk tassel at the left corner of the square; a satin
rosette in front, and strings complete the cap.
BOY’S CAP OF FIVE OR SIX YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 40, 41, 42, 43.
This cap is made of cloth or Holland; the crown, Fig. 41, is fourteen
nails long, and three nails deep; the band, Fig. 42, is eight nails
long, and half a nail broad; the brim or edge, Fig. 43, is eleven nails
long, and one nail deep.
In making up, the crown, Fig. 41, is wadded and lined, it is then
gathered evenly into the band on one side, and into the small circular
patch or button on the other; the band, Fig. 42, is lined with flannel
as well as calico; the brim, which is wadded and lined, has a piece of
buckram put within the lining, it is sewed on so as to turn up and set
rather round. A tassel or bow of ribbon may or may not be added at the
top, according to pleasure.
CAP FOR A BOY SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 44, 45, 46, 47.
This looks neat made of Holland, with a piping of dark blue, green, or
the same colour.
The top of the crown is in eight pieces, cut out of a circle, five
nails across; this will make each division two nails and a half long,
and two nails at the broadest part, sloped to a point, and the shape
of Fig. 46. The side of the crown is in four pieces, Fig. 47; to cut
these, make another circle the same size as the top, and in the centre
of it cut a smaller one, two nails across, then divide the circle into
four parts. The band is about one nail broad, when made up, and nine
nails long, before it is joined at the ends.
In making up, sew the eight pieces together, laying a coloured piping
between them, and putting a button at the top; the four sides, Fig.
47, being previously lined with buckram, demet, and glazed calico, are
then each sewed to the circle thus formed, one of the sides fitting to
two of the smaller pieces at the top; they must be sewed on the wrong
side very firmly, and turned down, so that the stitches are not seen on
the outside, the ends of these four pieces being piped, are then sewed
together. The cap is now ready for the band, which, after being wadded,
is stitched on, and the whole is finished.
CAP FOR A BOY, SIX OR EIGHT YEARS OLD.
PLATE 19. FIG. 48, 49, 50.
This is a simple cap and easily made; it consists merely of two pieces.
The crown is a circle of eight nails across, lined and wadded, which is
equally gathered all round, and set into a band, which is one nail and
a half deep, and nine or ten nails long before it is joined up, Fig.
50: this band is also wadded, and a bow of ribbon may be put on one
side.
CAP FOR AN OLDER BOY.
PLATE 19. FIG. 53, 54, 55, 56.
This is a remarkably neat cap, and may be worn by either a boy or a
man; it is generally made of cloth.
The circle at the top is five nails across, the side part is cut out
of a circle in the same manner as that of Fig. 45, the outer circle
being five nails across, and the inner one two nails; this circle is
divided into four pieces; the band, Fig. 56, is one nail and a quarter
broad, and eleven nails long before it is sewed up; the peak, Fig 55,
is generally made of patent leather; it is part of a circle, five nails
across, and is one nail and a quarter deep at the broadest part.
In making up, the circle is first lined with flannel and then with
silk; it is stretched over a strong but not very thick wire at the
edge, to keep it in shape, and a piping of cloth put on all round: the
sides, Fig. 54, are then lined with soft leather, and sewed to the
circle on the wrong side, before being joined together; the seams are
next sewed up, and a thin hoop of whalebone put at the bottom of these
sides, just where the band is to be joined on, round the head; the band
is firmly stitched to it, which band is also lined with thin, but not
very pliable leather: the peak is then put on; a lining of leather one
nail and a quarter deep is sewed in the inside, to the inner part of
which, a piece of silk is attached, with a string-case and cord to draw
it up to the size of the head. Sometimes a band of black velvet, or of
silver or gold lace is laid upon the cloth one, sometimes it is left
quite plain. The strap under the chin is of patent leather, fastened at
the side with a small buckle.
GENTLEMEN’S TRAVELLING CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 57, 58.
This is a particularly comfortable cap, and is easily made. It is
composed of fine cloth of any dark colour, trimmed with fur.
Make a circle, seven nails across, and cut it into six parts; the
brim is made either of patent leather, or of cloth, it must be three
nails and a half long at the straight part or bottom of it, one and
three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part, and rounded
off at each end: the flaps or pieces for the ears are also one and
three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part; they are cut in one
length with the band, which goes behind the cap, and is one nail deep;
the whole length, including the ear-flaps, is seven nails.
In making up, first join with a piping of the same, all the six
divisions of the crown, fastening them at the top with a round button,
and put in a lining of wadding, stiffened muslin, and any dark coloured
silk; sew all these round the edge, and then put on the brim or peak:
this, when of cloth, is made of two pieces the same size and shape;
run them together at the edge on the wrong side, with a piping between
them, turn them to the right side, put in a piece of stiff muslin, and
a thin wadding, sew it on to the front of the cap at the edge, and
again half a nail above, so that, though it can be pulled down over the
eyes, it usually remains turned up, as in Fig. 57: the band behind,
with the ear-flaps, is then sewed on; this is a piece of cloth, with
a strip of dark fur or velvet laid on it, so that when the strings of
the ear-flaps are tied under the chin, the fur lies against the throat
and ears, and when not required, the strings are tied on the top of the
head, the velvet or fur forming a kind of trimming to the cap.
A LADY’S RIDING CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 59.
This is made of velvet, and is simply a straight piece, a yard long
and about eight nails deep, lined with flannel or wadding, buckram and
silk, which is joined up at the two ends, and gathered on the one side,
under a small flat silk or gold button, and on the other, into a velvet
band, one nail deep, and made to fit the head. A silk bow and tassel
(see Fig. 51) are put on at the top, and ribbon strings fasten under
the chin, or not, according to pleasure.
A TRAVELLING CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 60.
This is a soft cap, and is generally made of cloth. It is formed of a
circle, eight nails across, cut in eight parts, which are joined with
pipings of the same, and fastened at the top with a knot or tassel.
The crown is lined in a similar manner to Fig. 58, and the band, which
must have buckram within the lining of silk or soft leather, is firmly
stitched to it.
A NEAT BOY’S CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 61.
This is made of cloth or Holland. The top is a circle of five nails
across, the head-piece is nine nails long, and one nail and a half deep
when made up, it is plaited in very small exact folds, and therefore
before it is made up, it must be four nails and a half broad: the brim
or peak is of patent leather, and the strap under the chin of the same.
In making up, the top or crown must be wadded, stiffened with buckram,
and lined: the head-piece is then prepared, by being folded, and the
folds stitched upon a piece of stiff buckram, the proper length: the
crown is sewed to it, the peak and strap put on, as in the Plate.
A TRAVELLING CAP FOR GENTLEMEN OR LADIES.
PLATE 19. FIG. 62, 63.
This is a very simple, and at the same time, a very good looking cap:
it is made either of velvet, or of fine cloth, and when doubled, as in
Fig. 62, forms nearly a square.
To make it, put in a wadding and lining, join it up behind, A B, make a
string-case, A C, through which a silk cord must be run, which draws it
up to the shape of a cap, and trim it round the edge or brim with some
rich fur. The advantage of the string-case at the top is, that when not
in use, it will pack quite flatly and take up little room.
THE WORKING MAN’S CAP.
PLATE 19. FIG. 64, 65, 66.
Fold a sheet of common brown paper to make a workman’s cap, as follows:—
Let it be a square of ten nails, double it across like a
half-handkerchief, and crease it well; open it and cross it again the
other way, open it again, double down the middle one way, and crease
it well; on spreading it out, it will be marked according to the lines
in Fig. 65. Measure from the centre on the cross lines, about one nail
and three-quarters (see A B C D), next crease the paper from side to
side through these points, thus:—one line through A B, another through
C D, and again C A, and D B; this will form a square in the middle. Cut
out a nail square at every corner, as in Fig. 66.
In folding it up, the square, A B C D, in the centre, forms the top of
the cap, and the points, E F, are doubled according to the crosswise
plait, and crossed in front towards each other, the other points, G H,
are likewise crossed behind towards their opposite ends. The cap is
then formed by merely turning up a piece all round to make it stand
firmly. (Fig. 64.)
WOMEN’S BONNETS.
PLATE 20.
Bonnets being, like gowns, dependent in a great measure on the fancy
and whim of the day, will only be treated of as to the general modes of
making them up, and a few of the very plainest shapes given.
Bonnets are made of velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, book-muslin,
chip, gingham, and glazed calico.
The foundations are either pasteboard, buckram, stiff muslin, or willow.
Bonnets are kept in shape by means of wire, chip, or whalebone.
They are lined either with the material of which the bonnet is made, or
with some other, lighter or warmer, according to taste, and the time of
the year; but care must be taken that the colours either harmonize or
decidedly contrast. When the lining is white, a sheet of tissue paper
is put between it and the bonnet, whether it be of silk, or only of
straw; this makes the white material, whatever it may be, look a much
purer colour than it otherwise would do. A piece of demet or of thin
wadding should always be laid between the foundation and the silk, or
other material of which it is made, unless that material is very thick.
Bonnets may be lined with ribbon in the following manner:—
Take a piece similar to the trimming, and long enough to be run plainly
to the outer edge of the bonnet all round, the other side of the ribbon
is finely gathered, and being drawn up to the size of the inside of the
bonnet, it is neatly sewed to it, forming a kind of border or trimming.
When a bonnet is lined plainly, or the cross-way, it takes half a yard
cut crosswise. If a curtain is required in addition, three-quarters of
a yard, cut the straight way, must be purchased.
In fitting your lining, lay it across the bonnet, so that as little as
possible is wasted or cut off at the corner; put small pins all round
the edge, and the inside also, so as to keep it in its place, cutting
off the superfluous quantity and then sew it, concealing your stitches
as much as possible between the lining and the bonnet.
To line a bonnet the straight way, so that, though plain at the edge,
it is a little fulled or plaited into the crown, about three-quarters
of a yard is required, influenced of course in some degree, both by the
depth of the poke and its width. This lining is very easily put in; sew
it round the edge on the wrong side as far as the ears or rounded part
of the bonnet, by which means the stitches are quite concealed, then
turn it, and sew the rest as neatly as you can; the lining looks the
best plaited into the crown; to do this equally, begin in the middle,
making a perfectly straight fold, the rest on each side should incline
a little to the centre, and be very small and regular.
Bonnets may be trimmed in a great variety of ways with the material of
which they are made, cut crosswise and either hemmed or lined, so as to
form a kind of ribbon, with velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, gauze,
muslin, or ribbon.
[Illustration: PLATE 20.
Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23
Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 25
Fig. 7 Fig. 8 9 Fig. 9 Fig. 24 Fig. 26
Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 27 Fig. 28
Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31
Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 16 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 36
Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 35 Fig. 40 Fig. 41
Fig. 45 Fig. 49 Fig. 51 Fig. 52 Fig. 39
Fig. 42 Fig. 46 Fig. 48 Fig. 53
Fig. 43 Fig. 44 Fig. 47 Fig. 50 Fig. 54]
Bows to be worn in front, or at the side, are generally made up and
sewed upon a piece of wire ribbon, which gives them firmness, and makes
them keep in their place and shape.
Velvet or plush trimmings are generally lined with satin or silk of the
same shade. The colour of the ribbon, if not an exact match with that
of the bonnet, should be darker.
Curtains may be made either of the material that lines the bonnet or
ribbon. For the former, the silk or satin is cut the cross-way, and is
from one nail and a half to two nails deep; it is hemmed at the edge,
and sometimes a straw plait or silk cord is laid on above the hem; they
may be either plaited on to the bonnet in large full plaits, or hemmed,
and a piece of ribbon, exactly the length that the curtain is to be,
run in; this looks better than the plaiting, and does not so soon
become flattened.
Ribbon curtains are made in two ways, the one by merely plaiting or
gathering a straight piece of ribbon, and hemming the ends; the other,
and much the prettiest method, is also the most complicated. Fold the
end of your ribbon down like a half-handkerchief, Fig. 13, and cut it
off, thus leaving a cross-way end; fold it again, straight down the
ribbon, measuring it so as to be doubled the same depth top and bottom,
thus forming a piece like Fig. 14: cut off a number of these pieces,
which must then be run very flatly together, so that the cross-way
parts of the ribbon are at the top and bottom, and the border or edge
lies in oblique or slanting lines across the curtain, Fig. 15, 16; one
end will be pointed or sloped outwards, in order to make the other like
it, the half square cut off at first, must be joined to it. The number
of pieces of course must depend on the breadth of the ribbon, the whole
curtain should be about three-quarters of a yard long; when the parts
are joined together, hem your curtain top and bottom, running a ribbon
in at the top, in order to full it properly to the bonnet.
OLD WOMAN’S BONNET.
PLATE 20. FIG. 1, 2, 3.
This is a comfortable shape for an old woman, and is very easily made.
It is in two pieces, the front or poke is made of pasteboard, covered
with silk or any dark coloured material. To cut the pattern of it,
take a piece of paper, four nails and a half square when folded (see
Fig. 2), let D be the doubled part, and round it off gradually at the
corner, A. The crown is cut out according to Fig. 3.
SCALE.
+----------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From
B to C the doubled part | 8 | | From B to G | 8½ | | From G to F
| 2 | | From F to E | 4 | | Then slope gradually to C from E | |
+----------------------------------+--------+ */
In making up, having previously cut out two pieces the proper size to
cover the poke, one for the outside, and one for the lining, run them
together on the wrong side, round that part which is to form the edge
of the bonnet, leaving open that which is to be sewed to the crown, and
slip the pasteboard into it: then begin the crown, Fig. 3, hem it at
the bottom and make a runner from F E to H, and another, one nail or
one nail and half above it, and put in a string; set the front of the
crown, C E, on to the poke, either in gathers or small plaits, draw up
the runners behind to the proper size to fit the head, and fasten them;
sew each end of the curtain a little way on the ends of the poke as in
the Plate; put a ribbon on across the front, and strings, with a bow at
the top; one may be added behind, at pleasure.
BONNET FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 4, 5, 6.
These bonnets are made of black, white, grey, or fawn coloured silk.
They are cut out as follows:—
For the pattern of the poke, Fig. 6, let your paper be doubled at D,
which part must be four nails and a half long; from A to B is three
nails and three-quarters; slope off the front at the corner. For the
crown, Fig. 5, let the doubled part, D, be eight nails long, and from C
to E is four nails and a half; it is gradually sloped from F, as in the
Plate.
In making up, run the pieces cut for the outside and lining together
at the edge, on the wrong side, and having turned them, slip in the
pasteboard; plait the front of the crown into the poke in very small
exact folds, leaving it quite plain for some distance above the ears;
make a narrow runner behind of one nail and a half in depth, to form a
curtain, and put on ribbon strings the same colour as the bonnet.
A NEAT BONNET FOR A SERVANT.
PLATE 20. FIG. 7, 8, 9.
To cut out the poke of this bonnet, Fig. 8, which is of pasteboard,
take a doubled piece of paper, five nails wide, by four nails and a
half long, letting D be the doubled part.
SCALE.
+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 2 | |
From A to F | 1 | | From the corner to E | 3 | | Above the corner to C
| 2¼ | +-----------------------+--------+ */
Curve from B to C, slope from C to E, round from E to F.
The foundation of the crown, Fig. 9, is of buckram, or willow; let
your doubled paper be three nails and a half wide, by four nails and a
quarter long; D is the doubled part.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the corner to C
| 2¾ | | From the corner to H | 2¼ | | From the corner to I | 1½ | | J
above the corner | 1 | +----------------------+--------+ */
Curve from G to H, cut from H to I, and from I to J.
The circular top or patch, is cut to fit the bonnet.
In making up, cover each part with silk, laying a thin piece of
wadding between the silk and the foundation, then sew them very firmly
together, with strong silk or waxed thread, and put a Persian or muslin
lining in the crown. Silk cut the cross-way and laid in moderate sized
plaits may be folded round the crown of the bonnet, which has a very
neat appearance. The more simply it is trimmed, the better it looks; a
ribbon across, to form strings, and one bow behind or at the side, is
quite sufficient.
A SCHOOL GIRL’S BONNET.
PLATE 20. FIG. 10, 11, 12.
To cut out the poke, Fig. 11, when laid open, let your paper be eight
nails wide, by seven long.
SCALE.
+-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to S is | 3¾ |
| From S to B | 2½ | | From T to C | 4 | | Above the corner to E | 1½ |
| From the side to F | 1 | | From the top to F | 2¼ | | From Z to Y |
3½ | +-----------------------+--------+ */
Cut from F to E, round from F to C, and from C, through Y, and B, to A,
curve A Z F.
The crown or head-piece, Fig. 12, is thus formed; let your paper be six
nails wide, by seven nails and a half long.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From H to G
| 2¼ | | From the corner to G | ¾ | | From the corner to K |
2½ | | J is from the corner | 1 | | From the corner to I | 2 |
+----------------------+--------+ */
Slope G to K, shape according to the Plate from K to J, cut from J to
I, curve from I to H.
The top or circle is cut exactly to fit this crown.
This bonnet is made of glazed calico; the poke is of pasteboard. If
many of them are required, it is the best economy to cut out all the
pokes at once, and then all the crowns, as they will fit into each
other. Make it up as follows:—
After joining the two ends of the head-piece, wire and sew the circle
into it, then tack the calico on the crown or circle; then tack a piece
of calico outside the head-piece, piping it up the joinings; run on the
lining of the poke, after which the outside cover is put on and tacked
strongly at the edge; the trimming will conceal the stitches; sew the
trimming, which is merely a cross-way hem one nail deep and piped to
the inside of the edge of the poke with small stitches, then turn it
over on the outside and sew it neatly down to the upper calico, taking
care not to go through the pasteboard. Fasten the poke to the crown,
and then put in the lining, making it to draw, and sewing it on the
inside. The trimming, piping and bow, are all cut the cross-way; the
strings are half a yard long, cut straight. One bonnet takes one sheet
of 3_d._ pasteboard, and about one yard and a half of 4_d._ glazed
calico, including the trimming; with the wire it comes to 9_d._ prime
cost.
For winter wear, it is desirable to line both poke and crown with
wadding or flannel.
A neat simple trimming for children’s bonnets, is made as follows:—
Cut strips of glazed calico, one nail wide, fold them so that the raw
edges shall lie at the back; making each strip somewhat less than half
a nail broad, and then with a long needleful of coloured thread, run on
the right side of it, up and down in vandykes; when done, draw it up,
and it forms a pretty sort of edging.
OILED SILK HOODS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 17, 18.
These hoods are convenient for persons who travel much, or go
excursions in open carriages, as a protection against rain; they are
made of oiled silk, either black, or light coloured, the former looks
best.
The shape is very simple, the hood consisting of four parts: the front
is a straight piece, one yard long, and six nails and a half broad. The
horse-shoe, Fig. 18, which is rather a different shape to the usual
one, is six nails and a half long, four nails wide at the top, and five
nails at the bottom; the curtain or tippet is half a yard deep, and one
yard and three-quarters long; the band is one nail broad, ten nails
long.
In making up, the head-piece is run to the horse-shoe quite plainly,
and the front, or part round the face is hemmed or bound; it is then
set into the band, the horse-shoe being plainly put in, and the rest
plaited in small folds; the curtain is sewed on in small plaits all
round, the band lined with silk or ribbon, and a large hook and eye or
chain is put on. The curtain is either hemmed or bound all round.
CALÈCHE.
PLATE 20. FIG. 19, 20.
These are worn by ladies who walk short distances to evening parties,
and are better than a bonnet as they do not crush or disturb the cap or
head dress.
A calèche is best made of dark silk or satin, and lined with the same
colour; it is in three parts. The front, or head-piece, is seven nails
and a half wide, and one yard long; the horse-shoe, Fig. 19, is five
nails and a half long by four nails and a half broad, at the widest
part, sloped down to four nails at the bottom; the curtain is one yard
and a quarter long, and one nail and a half deep. A lining is cut out
exactly similar to the outside; and it is made up as follows:—
Run the edges of the head-piece and lining together on the wrong side,
and turn them, put in a piece of whalebone the whole length of the
front, viz:—one yard, about half a quarter of a nail broad, and run
on the other side of it, to secure it, leave a space of one nail and
a half broad, and make a runner the proper width to receive a second
whalebone, and then, leaving the same distances, make runners for two
more; the spaces between are quilted, as in the Plate, to give a little
firmness to the whole.
Between the fourth whalebone and the outer edge is an interval of two
nails and a half, and this is not quilted like the rest. The horse-shoe
is then made, the outside and lining being run together, a whalebone
is put in, (see Fig. 19), at the edge, and again another, one nail
within. The head-piece is then gathered (the rough edges of both the
satin and lining being turned within, so as to make it perfectly neat
at the inside), and sewed to the horse-shoe, the fulness being chiefly
towards the top. It is then gathered at the neck, and bound with
ribbon, or a piece of the same material, which form a string-case; and
the curtain is set on, lined or not, according to pleasure. A ribbon,
about one yard long, is sewn on the front of the calèche, three nails
from the bottom on each side, forming a kind of loop, by which to hold
it forward when it is worn.
CLOAKS.
PLATE 20.
Cloaks may be made of satin, silk, cloth, merino, shawling, both the
real and the imitation, Scotch-plaid, Orleans or common stuff. The
choice of materials is of course influenced by the purpose for which
the cloak is intended to be used; for instance, carriage or travelling
cloaks are plain of a thicker substance, and have less work in them
than those used for walking in.
Satin cloaks have frequently a velvet cape or collar, sometimes they
are trimmed with broad velvet hems, laid on all round, or with fur, and
occasionally lined with fur also. Silk and merino cloaks may likewise
be trimmed with velvet, cut or uncut, plush or fur, and lined with the
same, or they may be made perfectly plain. As a silk cloak is at all
times a costly article of dress, and, with care, will last a long time,
it is worth while to have the silk a very good one; it should be soft
and rich, not liable to crease: levantine, satinette, or satin silk,
are the best; and the colour should be one that will not easily fly,
change, or spot; dark shades generally look the best, as black, violet,
myrtle-green, or deep marone.
Satin, silk, and fine merino cloaks should be lined with sarsenet,
either the same colour, or some well chosen contrast: but as these
sarsenet linings cost a good deal for a full sized cloak, two old silk
gowns, nicely picked to pieces, and either washed or dyed, would be a
good substitute, where economy is an object: when this is done, it is a
good plan to turn a deep hem of the outside silk over the edge, on each
side in front, or it is better still to let the two front breadths of
the lining be of new silk.
Cloaks may either be simply lined with a piece of flannel between the
silk and the lining, which makes them light and suitable for walking
in the autumn and the spring, or they may be lined and wadded; this
is done by laying breadths either of thin flannel or lining muslin,
cut the same size as the breadths of silk on a table, and placing upon
them sheets of wadding, so as to cover them entirely; then with a long
needleful of thread, the wadding should be tacked or basted in wide
stitches backwards and forwards in sort of vandykes upon the muslin or
flannel, in order that it may always keep in its place, which otherwise
it would not do. The flannel with the wadding thus sewed to it, is then
put between the two silks and the seams run up.
LADY’S SILK CLOAK.
PLATE 20. FIG. 21.
It consists of six breadths of silk, the proper length to fit the
person for whom it is made, i. e. from the collar-bone to the top of
the shoe. Cut a shoulder-piece the shape of Fig. 1, or 4, Plate 13,
making it to fit, with flannel and silk lining to suit; next cut a
collar, Fig. 7, Plate 13, with a stiff muslin and silk lining; then cut
the cape, Fig. 15 and 16, Plate 13, with only a silk lining.
In making up, having laid the lining and wadding together as described
above, run up the seams; cut the arm-holes one nail and a half from the
seam between the first and second breadths, and two nails and a quarter
below the shoulder-piece; each arm-hole is three nails and a quarter
long.
The shoulder-piece is next made, by running the silk and lining
together, with the wadding and flannel between them on the wrong side,
and then turning it to the other; the three back breadths of the skirt
are then hollowed out to fit the shoulder-piece, next full the whole
into the shoulder-piece, letting the two front breadths, reach to the
shoulder only, while the rest is sewed to the back. A hem one nail and
three-quarters deep of cross-way velvet, cut or uncut, or an edging of
fur may be put on, up the fronts according to pleasure. The back is
then plaited in behind, at a proper distance below the shoulder-piece,
to suit the waist, say four nails, and a band long enough to go round
the waist is laid upon these folds, and drawn through two large
button-holes, one at each end of the plaiting; this band hooks or
buttons in front, inside the cloak. Another way of confining it at the
waist, is, by laying a ribbon along the inside of the back breadth, at
the proper distance from the top, thus forming a kind of string-case,
through which two ribbons are passed, fastened at one end, and drawn
out at the other, of the runner; these ribbons tie round the waist at
the inside. The collar having previously been lined, is then set on,
and small pieces, three nails and a quarter long and half a nail broad,
are lined, piped all round, and sewed on one side of each arm-hole,
so as to lay over and cover it when the arms are not in. The cloak is
fastened at the throat either by long silk cords the same colour, with
tassels at the ends, or by a gilt or bronze chain.
The capes of these cloaks are frequently made loose from them, in which
case they may be worn separately as mantles or short cloaks; when they
are fastened on, they are sewed to the shoulder-piece.
LADY’S MANTELET OR SHORT CLOAK.
PLATE 20. FIG. 22.
These are made of velvet, satin, silk, cloth, merino or shawling; they
are lined with silk, muslin, or glazed calico, and trimmed with lace,
fringe, velvet, satin or fur; they are very convenient and light for
walking, or going out in an evening. A mantelet reaches to a little
above the knee, and fastens in the front with hooks and eyes; it is
made exactly like the cape of a large cloak, with five breadths in it,
a little hollowed round the neck, and set into a band, or a collar
turned over.
LARGE CARRIAGE CLOAK OR ROQUELAURE.
PLATE 20. FIG. 23.
Used by ladies in an open carriage, to put on in case of rain. It is
made of plaid or some woollen material, and consists of five breadths
of eleven nails wide, and one yard and a half long; two arm-holes are
made five nails from the top of the cloak, and five nails long, to
these arm-holes are sewed loose sleeves, eight nails long, and four
nails wide, when sewed up; they are merely attached to the cloak by
being sewed to the top of the arm-hole, so that they may be put on,
or left to hang down at pleasure. The cloak is lined with flannel and
glazed calico, or calimanco, it is set into a band at the neck, of
about ten nails long, and a collar and one or more deep capes put on.
It fastens at the throat with a gilt or bronze chain.
LADY’S NEAT GARDEN OR SERVANT’S CLOAK.
PLATE 20. FIG. 24.
This may be made either of merino or Scotch-plaid; if the former, it
has three breadths in it, of seventeen nails wide; if the latter, it
requires five breadths, eleven nails wide.
The shoulder-piece is like Fig. 3 or 4, Plate 13; it is lined and
wadded, as are also two capes the same shape as the shoulder-piece cut
larger; the collar is like Fig. 7, Plate 13. The whole cloak is lined
with black or coloured glazed calico; arm-holes are left between the
first and second breadths; they are four nails long, and three nails
and a half from the bottom of the shoulder-piece; a small piece of the
material, four nails long and three-quarters of a nail wide, lined and
piped all round, is set on along each slit or arm-hole.
These cloaks can be purchased ready-made at the mercer’s shop, and are
from 9s. to 18s. each.
OLD WOMAN’S CLOAK AND HOOD.
PLATE 20. FIG. 25, 27.
These are generally made of scarlet cloth, or grey duffel, and have
only one breadth in them. The cloth is about three yards wide, and it
is cut as follows:—
The width of the cloak is made in that of the material, therefore, when
the proper length for the cloak is cut off the piece (say one yard and
eight nails), it is doubled exactly in half the width, and then the
selvages being laid together, they are sloped off at the top, perhaps
from four to five nails gradually to about four nails above the bottom;
the two corners in front are also rounded off at the bottom, so that a
great part of it, as well as the two fronts are slightly on the cross,
which renders binding or hemming not absolutely necessary, though the
cloak looks much better when finished with a neat binding of scarlet or
black ribbon; the top is set into a band the proper length to go round
the neck, and a few plaits are made.
When two cloaks are cut out together, which is the most economical
plan, the hoods will come out of the sloping at the neck, but this
cannot be, if there is only one.
The hood is very simple, and is thus formed. Cut a paper pattern of
half the hood, exactly like Fig. 27, and lay it on the cloth, taking
care that D is upon the doubled part of it. In making it up, it is
gathered or plaited from the top, or doubled part to A; the rest to B,
is simply sewed up; B to C, is the part attached to the cloak, and the
front, or what goes round the face, is neatly bound with ribbon. These
hoods may be lined or not, at pleasure.
SCHOOL GIRL’S CAPE OR CLOAK.
PLATE 20. FIG. 26.
These are made of plaid or other stuff, lined with flannel and calico,
and are good things for school girls to wear at church and elsewhere.
SCALE.
+---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ |
———————— | 1st. | 2nd. | 3rd. | 4th. | | | Size | Size | Size | Size
| +---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+
| |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| |Usual width of plaid | 11 |
12 | | | |Number of breadths | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Depth to
be cut down the selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 | 13 | |Collar like
Fig. 7, Plate 13, | | | | | | cut according to size | | | | |
+---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ */
The skirt of the cloak having been lined with coarse flannel and glazed
calico, and the shoulder-piece being piped all round with a pretty
thick piping, the skirt is plaited evenly to the shoulder-piece in
handsome plaits, and the flannel being laid against it, the calico
linings are neatly felled down over the plaits, so as to hide the rough
edges; the collar, lined also with flannel and calico, is sewed on, and
a piece of tape or strong calico laid upon the part where it joins the
shoulder-piece at the top. A button is put on at the throat, on the
right hand side, and another, four nails below, and small squares of
plaid doubled, with each a button-hole made in them, put to correspond
on the other side.
By lengthening the skirt, this would make a very suitable cloak for a
woman.
A more economical cloak, of this pattern, may be made of green baize;
without a collar, it costs very little, but of course it does not wear
nearly so well as the plaid ones.
BOY’S CLOAK.
A cloak or deep cape for a boy, may be made very simply as follows:—
Cut a large circle of cloth or plaid, the size you wish the cloak to
be, and in the centre of it, make a smaller circle for the neck; cut
from this small circle to the edge in a straight line, which will form
the opening in front. Gather or plait the neck into a broad band, and
it is completed. A cloak thus made will hang in full handsome folds,
and be very warm.
SHAWLS.
Shawls may be made of various materials, velvet, plush, silk, cloth,
duffel, plaid, or printed flannel, and they may either be square or in
the form of a half-handkerchief; they are variously lined and trimmed,
according to taste and circumstances.
CARRIAGE OR DRESS SHAWL.
This is either velvet, plush, or satin, and is half a square of one
yard, twelve nails, or less, to suit the figure of the person, and the
width of the material. It is lined with white or coloured sarsenet, and
trimmed at the edge of the two straight sides, with a satin or silk
hem, from one to one nail and a half deep, cut crosswise, lace, fringe,
or fur.
LADY’S WALKING SHAWL.
Silk, cloth, or merino, are equally appropriate for this purpose. It
may either be a square of one yard, twelve nails, or half of it, and
is lined with silk. When the whole square is preferred, and when a hem
of velvet, satin, or silk is laid on, care must be taken to arrange it
so that when the shawl is doubled handkerchief-wise, the hems of both
folds shall be seen at the same time, one lying nearly over the other,
for which purpose, after laying the border on two successive sides
of the square, turn your shawl over before sewing the border of the
remaining two sides on. Thus half the trimming is on one, and half on
the other side of the shawl.
These shawls, like the one mentioned above, may be trimmed in various
ways.
SHAWL FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.
This is a square of about one yard, twelve nails, and is made either
of fine white, or very pale drab, grey, or other quiet coloured cloth,
with a satin ribbon, the same shade and one nail broad, laid on all
round it. It may be lined or not, according to pleasure.
QUILTED SHAWL.
This is half a square of silk of about one yard, twelve nails, and has
a very neat appearance, besides being both light and warm. It is thus
made:—
Lay wadding, demet, or flannel between the outside silk and the lining,
which should be either white or some pretty suitable colour: it must
then be run in three or four rows round the edge, and the middle
quilted in diamonds, or any other pattern, according to taste.
CASHMERE SHAWL.
Purchase a piece of coloured Cashmere or Indiana, one yard, six nails
square, to form the centre of the shawl, and make a very narrow hem all
round it; then take shawl bordering, or four strips of Cashmere of some
other colour, which will harmonize, or contrast well with the centre;
these should be from two to three nails broad, and one yard, twelve
nails long; they are likewise hemmed on both sides, and then sewed to
the square; the corners are joined obliquely, or from point to point.
A fringe should be set on all round. This coloured border must be put
on, so that when the shawl is worn, the two corners shall fall properly
over each other, as described in the “Lady’s Walking Shawl.” Coloured
gimp is sometimes laid on over the joinings.
MOURNING SHAWLS.
These may be made in two ways, according to the depth of the mourning.
The first and deepest kind is half a square of black silk, entirely
covered with black crape, and lined with black sarsenet.
The other is also a half square of rich, but not very bright black
silk, with a hem of crape from one to two nails deep, laid on the two
straight sides.
PLAIN WALKING SHAWL.
This may be made of plaid, printed flannel, or duffel, and is suitable
for ladies, children, and servants.
Cut half a square of the proper size, line it with silk, or calico,
and run it at about one nail from the edge, on the two straight sides,
so as to keep it flat, and make a sort of hem: this shawl is made to
fit the neck, for this end, instead of hollowing it out, run on the
cross-way part in the centre, a little string-case, in a semi-circular
form, and by passing a ribbon through, it is drawn up to fit the neck,
making a sort of frill or standing up collar. This shawl is plaited
in at the bottom of the waist, and strings, or a band sewed on at the
inside.
Arm-holes may also be made in it at pleasure.
TRAVELLING SHAWL.
A warm shawl or handkerchief for travelling, may be made of a square of
wadding doubled in half, and covered with silk or muslin.
SPENCERS.
PLATE 20.
Spencers are made of silk, cloth, muslin, and print, and are worn with
low frocks, by children, to walk out in.
PLAIN SPENCER.
PLATE 20. FIG. 28, 29.
From its simplicity, this is suited to very young children, as well as
to school girls, or young servants.
SCALE.
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| ———————— | 1st. |Child of |
| | Size. |4 years. |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of the body, | | |
| cut width-wise of the material | 12 | 15 |
|Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 3 | 3½ |
|When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 1 | 1½ |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1¼ | 1½ |
|Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ½ | ½ |
|Width of sleeve | 4 | 6 |
|Length of ditto | 4 | 6 |
|Neck hollowed out | ¼ | ¼ |
|Length of band or collar | 6 | 6 |
|Depth of ditto | 1 | 1 |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| ———————— |Child of| Girl of |
| |6 years.| 12 yrs. |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
| | Nails. |Yds. nls.|
|Length of the body, | 16 | 1 5 |
| cut width-wise of the material | 16 | 1 5 |
|Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 4 | 5 |
|When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 2 | 2 |
|Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2¼ |
|Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ¾ | ¾ |
|Width of sleeve | 8 | 8 |
|Length of ditto | 8 | 10 |
|Neck hollowed out | ½ | ½ |
|Length of band or collar | 8 | 9 |
|Depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 |
+-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+
In making, sew up the shoulders, make up the sleeves, and set them in,
a little fulled at the top. Make a string-case at the wrist at about
half or three-quarters of a nail from the bottom of the sleeve, which,
when drawn, forms a frill. Gather it equally into the band or collar;
for stout children, small gussets may be put in the neck. It is either
hemmed or set into a band at the bottom; sometimes a frill is sewed on
round the waist, sometimes the spencer is cut one nail longer to admit
of a runner being put one nail above the bottom, so as to form a frill.
DRESS SPENCER.
PLATE 20. FIG. 30, 31.
This is a very pretty shape for ladies’ children, but as it must be
cut out to fit the figure, only one size, for a child from two to four
years old, will be given. It may be made of kerseymere, cloth, cambric,
or jaconet muslin.
SCALE.
+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+
| | Yds. nls. |
|Length of body, width-way of the material | 1 0 |
|Depth of body cut down the selvage | 2 |
|When doubled in four, slit for the arm-hole | 2 |
|Cut into the material for the arm-hole | ¾ |
|For collar, see Plate 13, Fig. 17 | |
|For sleeves, see Plate 12, Fig. 1 | |
|Length of band | 10 |
|Depth of ditto | 1 |
|Length of robing, from the back over the shoulder | |
| to the front | 12 |
|Smallest width of ditto | ½ |
|Greatest width of ditto | 2 |
|For shoulder-piece, see Plate 13, Fig. 5 | |
+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+
In making up, supposing the spencer to be of cambric muslin, sew
a piece of strong insertion-work to the backs and front of the
shoulder-piece, simply hemming that part of it which goes over the
shoulder; full the body evenly into the insertion-work, both before
and behind, leaving it perfectly plain under the arm-holes; the sleeve
is next gathered into the shoulder-piece, and sewed plainly into the
arm-hole; the body is next fulled into the band. In the band, on each
side behind, is a little runner of about two nails from the ends,
through which a bobbin is run, which comes out through an oylet-hole,
at about a quarter of a nail from the end; it fastens also with a
button or with hooks and eyes: up the backs of both shoulder-pieces
and body a broad hem is made, in which are buttons and button-holes to
correspond. The robings are next put on, a little fulled at the back
and front, and a good deal over the shoulders: the robing at the back
is sewed immediately below the insertion-work; it is one nail and a
half deep, which increases to its fullest breadth over the shoulders,
and is gradually narrowed off again to the band in front. The collar,
which is trimmed with neat work or a frill, is then set on. The sleeves
are made and put in.
TIPPET AND SLEEVES.
PLATE 20. FIG. 32, 33, 34, 35.
These are very convenient for children to wear in the summer, as they
are easily put off and on. They are made of jaconet or cambric muslin,
gingham, or print, to suit the frock.
To cut the front, Fig. 33, let your paper be five nails and
three-quarters long, and three nails and three-quarters wide, when
folded in two. D is the doubled part.
SCALE.
+-----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the corner to L | 2 |
| Above the corner to T | 1 |
| From the side to V | ½ |
| From the top to V | ¾ |
| From the corner to S | 1¾ |
| From S to Z | 1½ |
| From Z to N | ¾ |
+-----------------------+--------+
Curve from L to T, again from T to V; cut from V to S; slope from S to
N. The part marked N, is for the neck; S V, for the shoulder; V T, the
flap or shoulder-piece.
For the back, Fig. 35, let your paper be three nails wide and four
nails long.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the bottom to A | 1¼ |
| From B to C | ¾ |
| From C to F | 2 |
| Leaving to G | 1 |
| From H to K | 1 |
+----------------------+--------+
Cut from H to A; slope from A to B; cut from B to F; curve from F to
half a nail below G; N is the neck; S the shoulder.
For the little flap or shoulder-piece, Fig. 32, take a piece of paper,
letting it be one nail and three-quarters long, when doubled, and one
nail and a half deep; at the opposite side to the doubled part, mark
the point A one quarter of a nail from the side, and one-third of a
nail from the bottom; cut in a straight line from the top to A, and
slope gradually from A to the bottom.
In making up, sew the shoulders of the two backs to those of the front,
set in the two shoulder-flaps, fulling them in the middle, gather the
front into the space of one nail, setting it into a band, which is
about one-third of a nail, when doubled, and nine nails long, made to
button behind; the backs are also gathered, and sewed to the band at
each end, at a proper distance, say about three nails from the middle.
The Plate represents the tippet as if the sides were not attached to
the band, observe, however, that the bottom, A, is to be sewed to the
part marked B, of the band. On the top of the tippet is set a collar,
according to fancy; Fig. 19, Plate 13, is that generally preferred.
Sleeves cut according to Fig. 1, Plate 12, are then made; they are
set into a band at the top, and then sewed on to the fullest part or
middle, under the flap, for the space of half a nail.
These tippets may be trimmed with braid, if made of cloth or
kerseymere; when they are of muslin, with narrow work or edging.
NECK HANDKERCHIEFS.
Many persons wear net or muslin handkerchiefs within their dress,
and under the collar or habit-shirt, and for those liable to be soon
heated, or who are engaged in warm or dusty employments, it is a
particularly good plan to do so, especially if the dress is not of
a washing material, as it keeps the body clean and nice much longer
than it otherwise could be. Elderly persons should always wear these
handkerchiefs, as there is something delicate and cleanly in their
having what will wash next the skin.
Muslin handkerchiefs may be purchased, woven for the purpose, with
borders, at from about 6_d._ to 2_s._, but the cheap ones are not worth
buying, they soon tear in the washing, and look thick and cottony; the
fine ones are so costly that it is better economy to have squares of
muslin cut from the piece; these, like the bordered ones, may either be
worn double, or the square may be cut in two, which most people prefer.
The muslin should be yard wide, not very coarse, nor yet extremely
fine, if wanted for common wear, but a thin transparent muslin should
be selected; that which is called India book, having a yellowish white
cast, is preferable to the blue muslins, which are apt to look heavy
and clothy when washed. Real India muslin is the best, but it is too
costly for general wear.
The extreme points of the half square should be cut off, or turned up,
which is a good plan for the back, as it makes it stronger; and after
hemming the handkerchief all round, a tape is set on behind, to go
round the waist and tie in front.
For net handkerchiefs, the best width of the net is from one yard
and two nails to one yard and four nails; it should be of a medium
fineness, not too close, or it will lose its clearness after washing.
In making net handkerchiefs, it is a good plan to run a hem of book
muslin, of about half or a quarter of a nail broad, on the two straight
sides, which prevents the handkerchief running up in the washing; on
the cross side, of course, a narrow hem is made, as the muslin would
shew in the wearing, and would look untidy. The points should be cut
off, and a tape sewed on behind.
Net handkerchiefs are, on the whole, more economical than muslin, as
they wear longer.
POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.
These are made of French cambric, fine lawn, Scotch cambric, cotton,
or silk; the former are chiefly worn by ladies, and the latter by
gentlemen; lawn and Scotch cambric are used by young persons and
children; cotton handkerchiefs are confined to the working classes.
Ladies’ pocket handkerchiefs are usually eleven or twelve nails square;
they are purchased woven on purpose with borders. Sometimes very fine
cambric may be procured eleven nails wide, which many persons prefer to
the bordered handkerchiefs; these are often made with broad hems, half
or three-quarters of a nail deep, and a row of open veining worked at
the bottom of the hem, or a narrow edging of lace is sewed all round.
Cambric handkerchiefs for gentlemen are larger than those for ladies,
say fourteen or fifteen nails.
Gentlemen’s silk handkerchiefs should be of India silk, and are about
5_s._ 6_d._ each; they are far preferable to British silk, as they
are much softer, and keep the dye to the very last. British silk
handkerchiefs should be dipped in gall the first time they are washed.
Printed cotton handkerchiefs, for poor children, may be bought at a
penny and even a halfpenny each.
BRIDAL FAVOURS.
The customs respecting favours and bridal paraphernalia differ so much
in different places, that no general rules can be given respecting them.
Sometimes white ribbons, gloves, and handkerchiefs are given, and
sometimes only the former. Favours for the higher orders are usually
of lace, flowers, silver ribbon, or cord, and those for the middling
classes, of satin ribbon; they are worn on the left side. The usual
quantity given to servants, both men and women, coachmen, &c. is three
yards, which is worn as a trimming for either the cap or bonnet by the
women, and made up into very large bows for the men, to pin on their
coats.
SHOES AND SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20.
No shoes will be here described but such as are soft, and therefore
easily made at home, or those worn by children.
Slippers may be made of velvet, silk, cloth, kerseymere, carpet,
wrap-rascal, or frieze, and worked canvass, any of these materials,
together with ticking, having a pattern worked on it, may be used for
children’s shoes.
Cut a paper pattern of half the shoe, as follows, according to the size
required. Fig. 42.
SCALE FOR ALL SIZES.
+-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+
| | Man. | Woman. | Girl of | Child of |
| | | | 9 or 10 | 5 or 6 |
| | | | yrs. | yrs. |
+-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+
| | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. |
|Length of paper | 5¼ | 4¾ | 3½ | 3 |
|Width of ditto | 2 | 1¾ | 1¼ | 1⅛ |
|Size from A to the bottom| 1¼ | 1⅛ | ⅞ | ⅞ |
|Size from B to the bottom| ¾ | ⅔ | ⅜ | ⅜ |
|From the side to B | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ | ⅛ |
|From the corner to C | 2 | 2 | 1½ | 1½ |
|From C to E | 3¼ | 2¾ | 2 | 1½ |
|From E to F | 1⅛ | 1 | ⅞ | ¾ |
|From F to H | 3 | 2½ | 1⅞ | 1½ |
|From H to G | ½ | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ |
|From G to I |a bare nl.| ½ | ⅜ | ½ |
|From F to the side | ⅛ | ⅛ | ⅛ | ⅛ |
+-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+
Cut from I to A, and again from A to B; curve from B to C, cut from F
to H; H to G being only a slit; cut off from G to I; from I to A is the
doubled part.
MEN’S SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 42.
These may be made of carpet, cloth and frieze, or wrap-rascal.
In cutting them out, the material should be doubled at D; these
slippers should be lined with flannel, and either silk or cloth; the
linings are tacked to the outside, and the three bound together all
round with silk ferreting or binding; the sole is of strong leather or
pasteboard, if the latter, it is put between two pieces of carpeting or
cloth, as no needle is strong enough to go through it, and the edges of
these pieces being bound round, the sole thus formed is attached to the
slipper.
It is, however, better in general that men’s slippers should be made by
a shoe-maker, as it is hard work for women.
LADIES’ SLIPPERS.
There are many neat and ornamental ways of making ladies’ slippers, or
toilette shoes; the following are the most generally approved:—
Canvass, worked in tent or cross-stitch, silk, jean, or print quilted,
cloth, or soft leather, braided or embroidered.
Care should be taken that the braid is very fine and flat; gold or
silver twist may be sewed at the edge of it, which improves the effect
very much.
When made up, these slippers should be lined with flannel, or wadding,
and silk, and bound round with silk binding or galloon. A pasteboard
sole, put between two pieces of thick cloth, or carpet, is bound round,
and sewed to the upper part of the shoe, and a warm lining of flannel,
or fleecy hosiery, put upon it, on the inside. A trimming of fur is
sewed round the edge.
QUILTED SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 43.
Some of these are made of strong silk, with a silk lining and soft
flannel between; they are quilted all over in vandykes, octagons, or
diamonds.
Some are made so as to wash, and look very well, if the material is of
blue, or any lively coloured print or jean. They should be lined with
flannel and good strong calico; the whole is then quilted together,
with thread or coloured silk. The initials of the owner may be worked
in button-hole or chain-stitch, on the top or side of the slipper; it
is slit down in the front, for about three-quarters of a nail, and the
two sides of the slit, as well as the whole shoe, bound with ribbon;
purple galloon is the best, if it suits the prints, as it washes well.
A string is made to draw from about the middle of each side, which ties
in the front.
LADIES’ SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 44, 46, 50.
This slipper is in two parts, the back and the front, which is by some
persons considered an advantage, and it certainly enables it to be cut
out with more economy.
Fig. 44 represents the back-piece when doubled.
SCALE.
+------------------------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| Greatest length of back-piece | 6½ |
| Shortest length of ditto | 6 |
| Width of ditto | 1⅛ |
| Depth of front-piece, when doubled | 1¾ |
| Width of ditto | 3 |
| From A to B | 2½ |
| From B to C | ¾ |
| From C to the bottom | ¾ |
| From F to the side | ½ |
| From F to G | 1 |
| From H to A | ½ |
| From the bottom to E | ¾ |
+------------------------------------+--------+
Cut from B to C, from C to E, from E to F, and from G to H.
This shoe is made like those described before, excepting that, being in
two pieces, the ends of the back-piece, S S, Fig. 44, are bound as well
as the top and bottom of it, and the corresponding parts, E F, of Fig.
46, being bound also, they are sewed together very securely with strong
silk.
TRAVELLING OR OVER-SHOES.
These are useful to wear on a journey, or to put over dress shoes, to
keep the feet warm in going out to dinner, &c. They are very easily
made.
Cut out the shape of the slipper (see Fig. 42), in frieze or
wrap-rascal, and also a lining of soft flannel, and of silk; tack the
linings to the outside, and then bind them round with silk-ferretting
the colour of the wrap-rascal; make a sole of the material, bind it
also round, and sew them altogether; then cut out a sole of strong
millboard, which must be covered with thick flannel, and as this is
too hard for the needle to pass through, it must be tied down within
the sole of the slipper, by means of a halfpenny ribbon passed through
holes made at the toe and heel, which must be so contrived as to secure
it effectually.
LADY OR GENTLEMAN’S HALF SLIPPER.
PLATE 20. FIG. 45.
There is also a manner of making a slipper by merely sewing on a front
to a sole, and leaving it without any back-piece at all, as shewn in
the Plate.
CARRIAGE SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 49.
These are particularly desirable for invalids, especially on long
journies. They consist of a mat, or small rug, either of sheep-skin,
or worked in rug stitch; upon this are sewed two large morocco shoes,
without soles, which are lined with soft flannel, or fleecy hosiery,
and trimmed round the top with fur, the rug itself acting as soles to
the slippers, which should be large enough to admit of any person’s
foot.
BABY’S FIRST SHOES.
PLATE 20. FIG. 51, 52, 53, 54.
These look very well made of crimson cloth, with soles of black cloth,
or they may be of silk or satin, quilted. The shoe is in two parts,
each of which is lined with flannel, and bound with crimson ribbon,
which is stitched on very neatly; between the cloth and the flannel of
the sole, is laid one of pliable leather, to give it a little firmness.
The front part, Fig. 51, is first sewed on to the sole (see Fig. 54),
after which, the back, Fig. 52, is put on, and being so cut as to
overlap the front, oylet-holes are made at A, Fig. 54, and at E, Fig.
52, through which a ribbon is passed, which serves at once to tie the
shoe, and to keep the front and back of it together; the sides not
being sewed up at all.
BABY’S SECOND SHOES.
PLATE 20. FIG. 47.
This is made of soft velveteen, strong jean, or thick cloth, lined with
fine calico. It is cut all in one piece, as follows:—let your paper for
the pattern be two nails and a half long, and one deep.
SCALE.
+----------------------+--------+
| | Nails. |
| From the top to A | ⅓ |
| From the side to A | ¾ |
| From the bottom to B | ⅓ |
| From the corner to C | ½ |
| From the bottom to E | ¾ |
| From the side to E | ½ |
| From the top to F | ⅓ |
| From H to G | 1 |
+----------------------+--------+
Lay B A, which is the folded part, on a double piece of the material.
Cut from F to G, slope from G to E, curve from E to A, round from C to
B, cut from B to A. This shoe should be bound with ribbon; it looks
pretty made of drab or grey, and bound with blue or rose colour. A
little bow is put on in front, and strings are sewed to the ends of the
straps, or passed through oylet-holes made in them, to tie round the
ankle, and thus keep the shoe in its place.
BABY’S TICKING SHOE.
PLATE 20. FIG. 50.
This is also in one piece, and makes a pretty variety, it is cut
according to the scale given before, and care must be taken in the
cutting out to place the ticking on the pattern, so that the stripes
lie properly, i. e. straight from the middle or front of the shoe,
to the toe. The ticking is then ornamented by being worked in the
intervals between the dark stripes, either in herring-bone, or some
other fancy stitch, in coloured netting silk, either in one colour,
or in two well chosen contrasts, as blue and brown, crimson and dark
green. It is then lined all through, bound with ribbon to suit the
work, and sewed up behind. The sole is of thick but flexible leather,
lined and bound. Oylet-holes are made on each side of the slit in the
front, through which a ribbon is laced, to tie it up, and a bow put on
at the top of the slit, completes it.
ON COVERING SHOES.
It is sometimes very good economy to cover white or light coloured silk
or satin shoes, but it requires great exactness, both in the fitting
and sewing the new cover on; black silk or satin is generally found
to answer the best, as from its dark colour any inaccuracies are less
likely to be observed. The quantity required for covering a full sized
pair of lady’s shoes is six nails, cut the straight way.
Lay a piece of soft paper upon your shoe, and cut an exact pattern,
divided of course in two parts, the front and the back. Place the
pattern upon your satin or silk, so that the material lies the straight
way, and so as to economize the satin.
The shoes must be first well rubbed and cleaned with a cloth; the
binding should, if possible, be picked off, and every little crack or
thin place neatly darned.
When you put the satin on the shoe, begin with the front, and be
careful that it lies perfectly straight and even, pin it with small
pins very near together, all round the front, next to the sole, keeping
your hand in the shoe, so as to fill it out, almost as when the foot is
in it; whip or sew it over at the inside round the edge, with a tacking
thread, and pretty close stitches; then with a stout needle and strong
but not coarse black silk, sew the satin to the shoe, as close to the
sole as possible, with small neat stitches, taking very great care not
to draw or confine it in any part, for fear of hurting the foot, and
trying it on from time to time, to make sure. The back is done in a
similar manner, and then a ribbon is laid on up the sides, where the
front and back join, and double stitched. The binding is next put on,
this must also be neatly back-stitched, and is broad enough to conceal
the tacking, or sewing-over threads; you must observe not to hold it in
too much, or all your work is wasted; for if the binding is tight, the
shoes can never be worn. Small bows and strings complete the whole.
Shoes that have been wetted by sea water, should be washed with soap
and water, which prevents their spoiling.
For cleaning white satin shoes, see Receipt, No. 41.
Patent leather shoes should be well rubbed with oil outside, to clean
them, and prevent their cracking.
The soles of shoes should be cut straight-wise, as when cut on the
cross, they will crack.
GLOVES.
The chief kinds are kid, doe-skin, Berlin, Woodstock, and Limerick. The
principal manufactures for the former kinds, are at Worcester, Dundee,
and Jersey; the latter take their names from the places where they
are made. French gloves are by some preferred to the English make, as
they are considered to be more elastic. The Berlin gloves look like
Woodstock, and wash and wear beautifully; a little pearl ash in the
water makes them look as well as new. Others are made of cotton, silk,
and worsted, and woven, net, or knit; for the latter, see “Knit Gloves.”
Cotton gloves are worn by men servants when waiting at table, and are
very good for the purpose, as they are easily washed.
It is impossible to give any shapes or scales for gloves; the best plan
to get an exact pattern is to pick an old glove to pieces, and cut
out by it. Gloves are sewed with a peculiar kind of silk, prepared on
purpose, which is finer and less twisted than ordinary sewing silk; it
is between floss and round silk. The needles are small, very sharp, and
three-sided towards the point.
For cleaning gloves, see Receipt, No. 40, 45.
ON DOWN AND FUR.
As it may be a matter of economy to some persons, especially to those
who live in the country, to understand something of the making up,
cleaning, and keeping of down and fur, such hints as are essential
to those not regularly employed in the business, are given in the
following pages.
DOWN.
The down of the swan, from its high price, is rarely used; as it is not
plucked from the skin, there is little to be said about it, excepting
that, after being well cleaned, the skin is cut into strips or squares
of the size required, and at once sewed upon the article to be trimmed
or ornamented.
Christmas is the prime season for goose down, and a great difference
is made in the waste, if it is gathered out of season, when there will
probably be a mass of pen feathers, or new quills, growing under the
breast, which must all be picked out, before the down can be got at,
which of course adds much to the trouble and expense. That down which
lies under the wings has no quill, therefore it cannot be sewed at all,
but is kept for stuffing cushions, coverlets, &c. Down should be kept
in paper bags or boxes, in a very dry place; damp spoils it.
A little while before it is used, it should be laid in paper bags
before the fire, to lighten or separate it.
For sewing on down, to be used as trimmings, &c., the following
instructions should be attended to.
Choose a small empty room, with as few drafts of air as possible in
it; wear a black silk pinafore or apron, and have a silk cover, or old
apron on the table, to prevent the down adhering to it, or to the dress.
Begin by sorting your down into a box, keeping the refuse, or that
without quills, in another box or bag by itself; in sorting it, draw
a handful out of the bag, holding it fast in the palm of the hand,
pulling it out piece by piece, by which means there is little waste;
the hands of the workwoman should be very clean and cool. When all
those pieces which have quills to them have been carefully picked out,
lay them in pairs upon the table.
Cut your strip of calico to the proper size, whether for a boa or muff,
it must be the straight way. Pin the calico, beyond the part where you
are going to work, to your waist or dress, and have some strong thread
in your needle; double your calico in regular rows or creases, rather
less than one quarter of a nail apart; then begin to sew the down upon
the first crease or fold, pass your needle through the ends of two of
the small quilled pieces, which you must hold in your hand, push them
down upon the calico, and sew three stitches strongly upon them, taking
care not to pull the thread too tight, or it will not wash well; then
take another stitch, a little further on the line, before beginning
with the next piece of down. When the row is finished, go on to the
next line marked on the calico, keeping that already done, next to you,
so as to lie inside, or under your hand.
Observe, that for a boa, the rows of down go width-wise of the calico,
while for a muff, the rows must be in a downward direction or round it;
in short it should always be sewed in that way which will make it shew
to the best advantage when made up, and so as to conceal the rows of
sewing.
Upon an average, six ounces of down will make a boa, with nearly three
ounces waste. The best goose down is about 2_s._ an ounce; it chiefly
comes from Lincolnshire.
Turkey down is also at its prime at Christmas, and is sometimes used
for cuffs, neck-ruffs, or operas, and other small articles.
IMITATION ERMINE.
Sew tails of false black sable into white Spanish rabbit skin, cut
a little V and let the tail in, covering it over with the flap, and
sewing the tail firmly in.
The following is a list of the furs in general use:—
Sable, which is black and brown.
Ermine, black and white.
Chincilla, greyish blue.
Bear, black, brown, and Isabella.
Otter.
Fox, black, brown, and white or Arctic.
Wolf, yellow or sandy.
Wolverine.
Lynx, black.
Squirrel, brown, or silver, which is also called Minever.
Racoon.
Fitch, brown.
Weazel.
Rat, Norwegian or Russian.
Rabbit.
Martin.
Cat.
TO MAKE A MUFF.
A full sized muff is about nine nails wide, and fourteen nails long,
before it is sewed up. To make a foundation for a muff, lay a piece of
Jersey on the table, and upon it a layer of curled horse-hair, next a
sheet of wadding, roll it round, and sew it up the proper size, put
it inside the muff and tack round the edge at each end, then make the
lining, slip it in neatly and fasten it. One yard and a quarter of silk
will line a full sized muff.
TO MAKE A BOA.
After sewing the down on the calico, as before directed, or the skins
of fur together, turn it to the wrong side, and sew the seam up neatly
and strongly, turning it out to the right side as you go on, then fill
it with Jersey to a proper thickness.
The usual length of a boa, is from two yards and three-quarters to
three yards.
TO MAKE A TIPPET.
A tippet is lined with flannel and wadding between the silk and the fur.
TO MAKE AN OPERA, OR RUFF.
This is lined with flannel and wadding, within the silk lining.
Fur is always cut at the back, with a knife and rule.
TO CLEAN FUR.
Unpick the seam, but not the skins. Place it on a large deal table,
and tack it slightly down with small nails. Pound white French chalk,
add some bran to it, and keep rubbing it on with the hand and a clean
flannel very hard backwards and forwards, take it out with a brush, and
when done, shake it well. When a grub or moth is in the fur, put it in
a stove hot enough to bear the hand.
TO CLEAN DOWN.
Open the seam, and wash with white soap and warm water; shake it before
a gentle fire till dry.
TO PRESERVE FUR
With respect to keeping furs, it is well to bear in mind the old adage
that
“A little neglect may breed a great mischief:”
great care should be taken to preserve them free from moths and damp;
the following are the best methods of doing so:—
On laying furs by for the summer, they should be put into brown paper
bags, with clean hops scattered over them, and once or twice during the
season, they should be exposed to the air and well combed or shaken, or
they may be put away in tin boxes, or sewed up in strong linen; pepper,
Russia leather, or a piece of mould candle are very good preservatives
against moths, when put in the box or bag with the fur.
When fur has been wetted, it should not be wiped, but only shaken, and
laid in the sun or a warm room till dry.
The best method of cleaning or preserving fur, is by washing the skin
with a solution of corrosive sublimate in as much spirits of wine as
will dissolve it, and gently shaking it, dry near but not close to a
fire. After this process has been gone through, the moth will not touch
it, but it requires care, as corrosive sublimate is a strong poison.