CHAPTER VI._The workwoman's guide

WOMEN’S SHIFTS.

PLATE 6.

Shifts are generally made of fine Irish linen or calico, for the

upper classes, and of stout linen, or strong but soft calico for poor

children.

Shifts are cut out differently, according to the width of the cloth. If

it is wide, the shift takes 2 breadths in the skirt, and gores are cut

off from the top to sew on the bottom to widen the skirt.

If the cloth is still wider, so as to admit of only 1½ breadth in the

shift, or else very narrow, so that 2 breadths are barely sufficient,

the shift is crossed. The tops vary, as do also the shapes of the

sleeves. The following are those generally worn.

SCALE FOR GORED SHIFTS.

+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+

| | Largest | Smaller |

| ———————— | size. | size. |

+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+

| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|

|Width of material | 14 | 14 |

|Quantity required for one | 3.. 2 | 2.. 14 |

| Ditto ditto for six |18.. 12 |17.. 4 |

|Length of skirt, cut in one piece | 2.. 12 | 2.. 8 |

|Width of piece to gore off at the top | 2½| 2 |

|Space to leave for the shoulders | 1¾| 1½|

|Depth to hollow the bosom | 2¾| 2½|

| Do. to hollow the back | 2 | 2 |

| Do. of flaps, if preferred | 3 | 3 |

|Length of sleeve down the selvage for Fig. 1 | 6 | 6 |

|Depth of sleeve | 3 | 3 |

|Size of gusset | 3 | 3 |

+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+

| | Second | First |

| ———————— | size. | size. |

+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+

| |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|

|Width of material | 13 | 12 |

|Quantity required for one | 2.. 7 | 1.. 15 |

| Ditto ditto for six |13.. 11 | 9.. 11 |

|Length of skirt, cut in one piece | 2.. 2 | 1.. 10 |

|Width of piece to gore off at the top | 2 | 1¾|

|Space to leave for the shoulders | 1¼| 1 |

|Depth to hollow the bosom | 2¼| 2 |

| Do. to hollow the back | 1¾| 1½|

| Do. of flaps, if preferred | 2½| 2 |

|Length of sleeve down the selvage for Fig. 1 | 5 | 5 |

|Depth of sleeve | 2½| 2¼|

|Size of gusset | 2½| 2¼|

+---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+

[Illustration: PLATE 6

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7

Fig 20 Fig 8 Fig 16

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11

Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 17 Fig 18

Fig 19]

In goring a shift, the 2 breadths may be cut in one length, to prevent

a seam on the shoulder. Fold your piece of cloth in two, and pin the

sides very accurately together, or with long stitches tack them up the

selvages. Next double the shift in half its length, from A to B, and

put in pins to mark the crease in the middle, C C. Unfold the shift

and double it again very carefully the width-way, so as to let the

four selvages lie very evenly one upon another. Measure from the top,

B, the space, B D, to be cut off, crease the linen in a straight line,

from D to C, and cut it carefully off through the four thicknesses

of cloth. The gores thus cut from off the top are reversed and sewed

on to the bottom, to widen the skirt. The dotted lines in the Plate

shew the width of the cloth, and the dark clear lines are intended to

represent the shape of the shift. When the gores are sewed in, shifts

are generally hollowed out at the back, and may either be also hollowed

in front or have a flap cut, as seen in Fig. 2. The hollowing at the

back is not so deep as in the front, therefore, great care must be

taken in cutting the one not to injure the shape of the other; and in

order to insure the two halves of each side being cut to correspond,

it is advisable to cut the shape of the parts to be hollowed out in

paper, to lay the paper on the linen, and cut by it. When the breadths

are cut separately, as in some cases they must be, the seams on the

shoulders should be sewed previously to the parts behind and before

being hollowed. If the flap in front is preferred, it may either

be cut straight down, as in Fig. 2, or in a slanting direction, as

the shoulder in Fig. 6. This last plan is usually followed, and a

button-hole is worked near the front of the shoulder-strap, which,

being folded over to a button sewed on the shoulder-strap of the stays,

neatly confines all straps, &c., in the fold.

SCALE FOR FIG. 6.

+-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+

+-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+

|Length of shoulder-strap | 4 | 3½ | 3 |

|Widest width of ditto | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¼ |

|Sloped off to | ¾ | ¾ | ½ |

|Length of plaited sleeve | 8 | 7 | 6 |

|Depth of ditto | 2½ | 2 | 1½ |

|Size of gusset | 2 | 1½ | 1½ |

|Length of sleeve-band | 4½ | 3¾ | 2¾ |

|Width of ditto | ½ | ½ | ½ |

|Length of bosom gore |1 full nail| 1 | ¾ |

|Width of ditto at the top| 1 | 1 | 1 |

+-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+

There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its

simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps

are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter,

and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or

crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed,

both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be

added, to give a finish to the whole.

The sleeves are sometimes cut out of the width of one of the breadths

of the skirt, when the material is a little too wide; but unless you

have linen of an awkward width by you, it is a wasteful plan, as the

strip thus cut off is generally twice as long as the quantity required

for the sleeves. Observe, if this plan be adopted, to cut off the

length for the sleeves all in one piece, and not length by length from

each separate breadth, as much waste would arise from so doing. If the

sleeves are to be made as in Fig. 2, they may be cut in one length,

sleeve and gusset together, down the selvage (see Fig. 17, 18, 19),

and so many lengths in the width of the cloth. If they are to be made

according to Fig. 6, an extra nail in length must be allowed for the

plaiting. The gussets are reduced in size, according to the Scale, and

a band to gather the sleeve into, at the bottom, is neatly stitched.

CROSSED SHIFTS.

PLATE 6. FIG. 3, 4, 5.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+

+----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+

|Width of material | 1 0| 14| 12|

|Quantity for one, not including sleeves | 2 12|2¼ 0| 2 0|

|Quantity for six, not including sleeves | 16 8|4½ 0| 12 0|

|Length of skirt | 1 6|1¼ 0| 1 0|

|Width of skirt, when sewed up, should be| 1 0| 14| 12|

| at opposite corners | 10| 9| 8|

| and double | 11| 10| 8|

| up, and double | 1 4|1 2| 1 0|

|Sleeves for one | 6| 6| 5|

|Sleeves for six | 1 5|1½ 0| 15|

+----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+

Before crossing a shift, sew the 2 breadths or the 1½ breadth,

whichever it happens to be, together, and next, after flattening the

seams with your thumb nail, crease the skirt, so that these two seams

shall lie exactly one upon the other, and tack or pin them firmly

together; or, to give a neater effect, the seams are brought, one in

front and the other behind, so as to divide it in exact thirds. Fig.

4 represents the skirt when sewn up, A A being intended for the seam.

Measure off 1¼ nails at the left hand of the top B D, and on the right

hand of the bottom B D of the skirt, and double it from D to D, as in

Fig. 5; and that you may be sure your measurements are accurate, it

is better to double it again upwards, at X and Y, so that B D at the

bottom, should lie upon B D at the top, and the corner C upon C, as in

Fig. 3. If they do not exactly correspond, the shift is not correctly

folded. After pressing these creases with the hand, unfold C from C, as

it was before (see Fig. 5), and cut evenly from D to D. The skirt must

then be turned. The two wide ends are for the bottom—the two narrow

ones for the top of the shift.

It is made up as follows:—After sewing and felling the seams, and

hemming the bottom, the hem at the top must be turned down, as if for

hemming, and then turned back again and sewed all round, which is much

stronger than a common hem. The sleeves are generally set in plainly,

excepting, of course, in those intended to be full, as in Fig. 6.

CHILD’S SHIFT.

PLATE 6. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

This is a particularly neat pattern for a child from five years up to

any age, and is generally the first shift used after leaving off the

little shirt which is seen in the baby-linen.

As these shifts consist of 1½ breadth of 9 yards long, an even number,

as 2, 4, or 6, should be cut out at the same time to prevent waste.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+------------+

|Width of Irish linen | 12½ nails |

|Length of ditto | 9 do. |

|Number of breadths | 1½ breadth|

|Width of shift at the top, when gored, and double | 8 nails |

|Width at the bottom, when double | 11 do. |

|Space left for shoulders | 1½ do. |

|Depth of slit for lappets | 2 do. |

|Depth of arm-hole | 2¾ do. |

|Whole length of sleeve, including gusset | 4½ do. |

|Depth of sleeve | 1½ do. |

|Length of shoulder-flap | 3 do. |

|Width of ditto | 1¼ do. |

|Length of lining | 7 do. |

|Width of ditto | 1¾ do. |

+--------------------------------------------------+------------+

Two gores, of 2¼ nails at the top, and ¾ of a nail at the bottom, are

cut off the whole breadth (see Fig. 9), which reduces the body to 8

nails at the top, and 11 at the bottom, which is the proper width of

the shift. These gores are sewn on to the half-breadth, which makes it

exactly correspond with the other side. After sewing the two halves

together, leaving 2¾ nails from the top for the arm-holes, cut down

the slits for the bosom flaps 2 nails deep, leaving 1½ nail space for

the shoulders. Next, cut out the sleeve flaps (see Fig. 11) of 1¼

nail deep, and 3 nails long, and, after hemming them all round, sew

them with firm small stitches to the shoulder. At the edge, B, sew on

a piece of tape, in which make a button-hole, which buttons over the

shoulder to the button, K, and confines all straps, as seen in the

sleeve marked A, in Fig. 11, where the flap is represented as turned

back over the shoulder, as it is when worn; whereas in the sleeve,

marked B, the flap is unturned. The sleeves are hemmed all round, and

then one end is turned up to form the gusset, to one side of which the

other end of the sleeve is sewn, as in Fig. 17, 18, 19; they are then

put plainly into the arm-hole, which must be previously hemmed.

The lining is put in last, and is turned down once a deep fold, all

round. It is neatly felled inside to the shift. The lining is 7 nails

long, and 1⅓ nail wide. It is sewn in a little below the arm-hole, and

carried over the shoulder to the corresponding place on the other side

of the shift. Strings are sewn to the points of the flaps, both before

and behind. Children’s sleeves are sometimes fulled on the shoulder.

The work should be close and strong. The flaps are sometimes made of

fine lawn, edged with a cambric frill or worked muslin, and allowed to

lie over the shoulder, outside the dress, which has a clean and neat

appearance.

A SECRET WORTH KNOWING.

HOW TO SAVE ONE SEAM AND TWO FELLS IN MAKING UP TWO SHIFTS.

PLATE 6. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15.

This is a useful hint for those who make up much linen at home. It is

done as follows:—

Take 3 breadths of the wide-width cloth, and sew them all together

like a bag; then lay two of the seams very exactly one upon the other,

and either pin or tack them firmly together; fold the whole piece in

half, width-wise, so as to have four thicknesses of linen lying upon

one another. Cross it like a common shift, Fig. 15, measuring it top

and bottom to see if it is even, and it will cut into four pieces, one

of which, Fig. 12, will have no seam at all; one, Fig. 13, will have

a straight seam down the middle; the other two, Fig. 14, have each a

piece like a gore on one side. These shifts, when neatly made, are just

as serviceable and as good as those cut in the usual way, and it saves

a great deal of work.

PLATE 6. FIG. 8, 16.

This is a pretty variety of sleeve, and is most suitable for young

children. It is intended to fall over the frock. Fig. 8 represents the

shape of the sleeve when cut out, and Fig. 16 when it is finished. The

sleeve is cut all in one piece, taking care that the slope of the flap,

C, when turned back, corresponds with the slope of the sleeve, D. The

sleeve and flap are frilled with cambric, work, or lace. The advantage

of this shape is, that both sleeve and flap are in one.

TROWSERS OR DRAWERS.

PLATE 7.

These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost

all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are

made in a great variety of ways. Those mentioned here are the kinds

most generally approved. Drawers for ladies and children are usually

made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin. Those ladies who are

invalids, or who ride much, frequently wear flannel or wash-leather

drawers, with or without white calico leglets. For men, drawers are

composed of very strong twill, calico, linen, flannel, and stockinet.

CHILD’S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a child’s first pair of trowsers, and should be made of fine

twill or calico. Each leg is cut in one piece, and, when folded, is 4½

nails wide; therefore, to prevent waste, the material should be 9 nails

in width.

Cut off the 2 breadths for the two legs, of the proper length, and

observe the following directions:—

SCALE.

+------------------------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| Width of material | 9 |

| Length of each breadth | 9 |

| Fold the breadth in half its width | — |

| Measure from A to B, Fig. 2 | 4 |

| From E to C | 2 |

| From F to B | 4 |

+------------------------------------+--------+

Slope off from A to C, and cut from A to B, taking off ½ a nail from

the width at the top.

In making, sew up the legs and join them at the seam in front, leaving

them open behind, with a broad hem on each side, formed by laying

a strip of the same material at each end, which is run at the edge

on the wrong side, turned over to hide the stitches, and hemmed or

back-stitched near the edge. The legs are then tucked, and the work

or frill sewn on. The whole is next set into a band, ¾ of a nail deep

when doubled, and 5 nails long, which buttons behind. Shoulder-straps,

with button-holes, are attached to the trowsers by means of buttons

before and behind. This plan is far more convenient than that of

sewing on the straps, as, when they are only buttoned on, if it is

necessary to change the trowsers in the course of the day, they may be

simply unbuttoned without undressing the child, and the clean trowsers

fastened to the shoulder-straps, which still remain over the shoulder.

[Illustration: PLATE 7

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 20

Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 21

Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 22

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 17 Fig 19

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 18]

A CHILD’S LARGER TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 3, 4.

This resembles Fig. 1 and 2 in every respect, excepting that the top is

sloped or hollowed at the back.

Procure your material 10½ nails wide, to admit exactly of one leg being

cut in the width.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| Length of each breadth | 10½ |

| Fold it in half, letting D be the double part | — |

| From the top to B | 1 |

| From B to A | 4½ |

| From B to F | 4 |

| From F to E, or the half-breadth | 5¼ |

| From F to H | 5½ |

+-----------------------------------------------+--------+

Slope from G to E, and again from E to C, through A; after which, cut

at the top of one fold from A to B, and of the other from B to C. Take

care to cut the pair to match, so that the outer, or hollowed parts of

the legs should rise, the one towards the right, and the other towards

the left side. These are made up in a similar manner to Fig. 1.

GIRL’S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 5, 6.

Each leg of these trowsers is also made in the entire breadth.

Procure your material 10 nails broad.

Cut each breadth 8 nails long, not including the tucks, which, if they

are deep, will add about 2 nails more. Supposing it but 8 nails long,

cut as follows, after folding the breadth in half its width.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From A to B | 1 |

| From B to C | 4 |

| From C to E | 3 |

| From F to G, or the entire half-breadth | 5 |

+-----------------------------------------+--------+

Slope from E to G. Cut in a straight line from G, past C, to H. Cut one

fold from C to B, and the other from H to B.

If the tucks require 2 nails length in addition to the above size,

continue the width of the legs, the same as from C to E (3 nails), to

the end.

In making up, sew the trowsers up before and behind, and cut two slits,

one on each side, to the depth of 3 nails. These slits have broad hems

laid on all round them; to form which, cut two strips of 4½ nails long,

and 2 nails broad; split each length down the middle, to within 1½ nail

from the end (see Fig. 2). This strap is laid close to the edge and run

all round the two sides of the slit, turned over, and hemmed down. This

false hem greatly strengthens these slits.

The whole is then set into two bands, one for the front, and the other

for the back of the trowsers. These bands are 5½ nails long, and ¾

of a nail wide, when doubled. A button-hole is strongly worked, in a

slanting direction, at each corner of the bands, by which they are

fastened to two buttons sewed upon the stays.

TROWSERS FOR A BOY OR GIRL.

PLATE 7. FIG. 7, 8, 9.

This is a pretty body and trowsers, and is very suitable to little

boys, especially if they are at all delicate, being particularly warm.

The body is composed of one middle piece, 6 nails long, and two side

pieces, 3½ nails long each. They are 2½ nails deep, and, when sewed

together, the middle is hollowed so as to make it only 2¼ nails.

The trowsers are made as follows:—

Width of material, 12 nails.

Length of each breadth, 11½ nails.

Fold each breadth in two (see Fig. 8).

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From A to B | 3½ |

| From A to C | 4½ |

| From C to H, half the breadth, or | 6 |

| From C to E | 6 |

| From E to F | 5 |

+-----------------------------------+--------+

Slope from H to B; also from H, past F, to G, at the top of the

breadth, whence it is cut to E, for the hollowed fold, while the under

one is cut straight from E to F.

This trowser opens at the side; there is also a small opening in front

(see K, Fig. 7). The body is hemmed all round, and sewed on plainly

to the front band of the trowser, but it is left loose, as in Fig. 7,

beyond the arm-holes on each side. The two bands button to each other

at the sides, the body ties behind, and may, or may not be fastened

also to the band of the trowsers at each side, having button-holes to

correspond with the buttons. A little pocket should be sewed inside the

slit down the sides, as in Fig. 9, where it is represented as if drawn

out, or turned inside out.

LEGLETS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 10.

These are useful to put over the legs of children’s trowsers, when they

are soiled or tumbled, before it is necessary to put on an entirely

clean pair. They are usually made of some finer material than the

trowser itself, and look well for an evening, when they are of fine

cambric muslin, with open work, or small tucks. They are fastened by

three or four buttons and button-holes or loops, the buttons being

sewed to the trowsers. Sometimes the trowser itself only reaches to the

knee, and leglets are always attached to it, by means of small buttons;

they should be put on pretty closely, to make the leglets fit well, say

six or eight on each leg; button-holes are made to correspond in the

leglets. They are especially advantageous for children who play a great

deal out of doors, or who live in a town, they will sometimes soil one

or two pair in a day.

WOMEN’S DRAWERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 11, 12.

These are formed of two separate legs sewed into a band, which is made

to button before or behind, at pleasure. For a moderate size, Fig. 12

will be a good guide.

Width of material, 14 nails.

Length of each breadth, 15 nails.

Fold each breadth in half its width, letting D be the doubled part, and

measure as follows:—

SCALE.

+------------------------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From A to B is | 4 |

| From B to C | 8 |

| From C to G | 7 |

| From C to E | 7 |

| Cut in a straight line from A to E | — |

| From F to G | 1 |

| From F to S | 5 |

+------------------------------------+--------+

Cut in a straight line from S to G; cut also from E to Z, the point Z

being within ½ a nail from the side. Hem the bottoms of the legs, after

sewing up the seams, and hem round the slits, or open part; set them

into the band, making them overlap each other (see Fig. 11). The band

is 11 nails long, and 3 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 7. FIG. 13, 14.

Some persons, both ladies and children, wear bodies attached to their

drawers, as in the figure, which represents a child’s size.

Procure your material 10½ nails wide.

Cut each breadth 9 nails long.

Let D be the doubled part, and mark as follows:—(Fig. 14.)

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From A to B | 2½ |

| From A to E | 4 |

| From E to B | 5¼ |

| Slope from B to B | — |

| From E to G | 4 |

| From the top to G | 1 |

+-------------------+--------+

Cut from G to H, H being 4½ nails from the doubled side.

Cut from H to C.

Let the body be 2½ nails deep, and 10 nails long, fold it in four, cut

out the arm-holes, and sew on the shoulder-straps.

In making up the trowsers, sew the legs together in front, after they

have been run up, leaving them open behind, and laying on a broad tape

(see T T, Fig. 13), sew on the body, and it is completed.

TURKISH TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 15, 16.

These Turkish or full trowsers are often worn by little girls.

Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit one leg exactly in the

breadth.

Cut each breadth the proper length, say 9 nails long.

Fold each breadth in half, letting D be the doubled part (Fig. 16.)

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From A to B, or the width of the doubled breadth | 5 |

| From B to C | 4 |

| From the top to E | 1 |

| From E to F | 4 |

+--------------------------------------------------+--------+

Cut one fold from E to F, and the other from E to G. Cut from G to C in

a straight line.

In making, sew up from B to C, and either gather the bottom, A B, into

a band, to which a frill is set on, or else make a deep hem to admit of

a ribbon, which draws it up to the proper size, and ties in a bow. To

this hem is sewed a broad frill or handsome piece of work. The latter

is the most convenient plan of the two for the washerwoman, as the leg

will lie quite flatly to be ironed.

TROWSERS FOR A LITTLE BOY.

PLATE 7. FIG. 17, 18, 19.

This is a particularly good pattern, and very suitable for a boy.

Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit of one leg in the breadth.

Cut each breadth 7½ nails long.

Double the leg so as to leave 2 nails unfolded, or rather, fold it to

within two nails of the selvage. Let D, Fig. 19, be the doubled part.

From A to B is 2 nails, and is not double. From B to C is 4 nails, the

one fold being cut in a slight curve from B to C, and in a sweep from A

to C. The bottom of the leg is 3 nails wide. Slope from G to C, G being

nearly 2 nails from the bottom.

The body is 10 nails long, and 2½ nails deep; fold it in four, and cut

out the arm-holes (see Fig. 18).

In making, sew up each leg from K to G, and hem round every other part;

next, make the body, hemming it all round, after which, sew the legs

firmly to the body, making the flap, A L C, of one leg, overlap or lie

across the flap of the other leg. These two flaps, after being firmly

set into the band, are farther secured by back-stitching them together

along the dotted line. Fig. 17.

MEN’S DRAWERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 20, 21, 22.

These are men’s strong drawers, made of coarse twill or calico.

Procure your material 14 nails wide.

Cut each breadth 13 nails long.

Fold the breadths in half, letting D, Fig. 20, be the doubled part. The

drawers are quite straight at the top, the piece, C H F, being an extra

bit put in (see Fig. 20).

[Illustration: PLATE 8

Fig 1 Fig 4 Fig 12

Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15

Fig 5 Fig 16 Fig 19

Fig 2 Fig 6 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 20

Fig 3 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 21 Fig 25

Fig 9 Fig 22

Fig 10 Fig 23 Fig 24

Fig 11]

SCALE.

+-------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From A to B | 3¾ |

| From C to E | 4¼ |

| From the top to G | 5 |

| From F to E | ½ |

+-------------------+--------+

Cut from G to B, and one fold from G to E; the other is from G to F.

A triangular piece is put in at the top of the back, of 3 nails in

continuation from F to H.

The pair of drawers has two bands of about 7 nails long each, and 1½

nail deep, when doubled.

In making, sew up the legs, and put on the extra piece at the back.

Sew the two legs together at the back, and hem the slit on each side

in front. Set each leg into a separate band, leaving them open before

and behind. Work four little oylet-holes in the band behind, to admit

tapes, which are laced through them and tie; in front, metal buttons

are put, and button-holes made. Down each leg, in the front, a broad

tape or piece of strong calico is laid, to strengthen it. A slit of

about 2 nails long is made at the bottom of each leg. Broad tape is

laid on round each leg at the bottom, forming a sort of hem, and oylet

holes are worked on each side of the slit, for tape to come out at,

which draws them to the proper size.

Fig. 20 represents the back of the drawers cut out.

Fig. 21 represents the back of the drawers made up.

Fig. 22 represents the front of the drawers made up.

WOMAN’S NIGHT-JACKET.

PLATE 8. FIG. 1, 2, 3.

SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES.

+--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| | | 18 yrs. | 12 yrs. |

+--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

|Width of material | 14 | 14 | 12 |

|Quantity required for one | 2 10 | 2 3 | 1 13 |

|Quantity required for six |15 1 |13 2 |10 14 |

|Quantity required for twelve |31 8 |26 4 |21 12 |

|Whole length of body to be doubled | 1 8 | 1 4 | 1 0 |

|Space to leave for shoulders | 3 | 2¾ | 2½ |

|Length of sleeves down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 6½ |

|Width of ditto, two in breadth | 7 | 7 | 6 |

|Length of collar down the selvage | 8 | 7 | 6½ |

|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 3½ | 3½ | 3 |

|Length of wristband down the selvage | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ |

|Width of ditto, or four in the breadth| 3½ | 3½ | 3 |

|Length of binder down the selvage | 4½ | 3½ | 3 |

|Width of ditto | 1 | 1 | 1 |

|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2¾ | 2½ |

|Size of neck-gusset | 1½ | 1¼ | 1 |

|Width of frill | 1¼ | 1 | ¾ |

+--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

Night jackets for the higher classes are made of linen, lawn, cambric

muslin, and fine calico; also of dimity and twilled calico; and for

the lower orders, of linen or calico. The calico should be soft and

strong; and the unbleached or grey calico, as it is usually called by

Linen Drapers, is warmer and often more durable than the white.

Fig. 1 represents the plan or picture of a piece of cloth of the

proper width, on which all the parts for forming a woman’s jacket are

accurately marked, with the exception of the shoulder-straps, which, as

they do not fit in, might be made of any extra bits.

Cut out the two breadths of the skirt in one length, to avoid a seam

on the shoulder. Fold it very exactly in half, and, after leaving 3

nails at each end of the folded side, to allow for the shoulders, slit

open the neck from A to G, after which, measure carefully and find the

middle of the neck, C, and slit it down to the bottom, D, to form the

opening in front of the jacket.

The sleeves, which are 10 nails long, and the two cut in the width, are

either sloped off towards the wrist, fulled into a wristband, as in

Fig. 10, or else neatly run, at a sufficient distance from the edge,

to form a kind of frill (Fig. 9). This running is done in two rows,

extended nearly all round the cuff, and neatly stretched upon a piece

of tape, which is laid inside, and carried all round the cuff.

Fig. 3 represents a plan for cutting out twelve jackets, which is the

most economical number, cut out at once, to avoid waste. The pieces in

the Plate are marked with the initial letter for their use, and the

width of the piece, thus, S 7, signifies sleeve 7 nails wide. On the

left hand of the plan is marked the length of each piece, and on the

right hand is set down the number of those lengths required to be cut

to form the set complete, thus, 12 L means 12 lengths. The frills are

generally of fine lawn or cambric, or else corded, jaconet, checked, or

other muslins.

NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 5.

SCALE.

+------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| | | | |

| | | 18 yrs. | 14 yrs. |

|------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

|Width of material, if gored | 15 | 14 | 12 |

|Width of gore to be cut off each | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 |

| side at the top | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 |

|Width of the bottom will be | 18½ | 17½ | 16 |

|Width across the top will be | 11½ | 10½ | 8 |

|Quantity required for one | 4 1 | 3 8 | 3 0 |

|Quantity required for two | 7 13 | 6 8 | 5 11 |

|Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 | 1 0 |

|Depth of slit in front | 6 | 6 | 5 |

|Space to leave for shoulders | 2½ | 2½ | 2 |

|Slope of shoulders | 1 | 1 | ¾ |

|Width of binders | 2 | 1½ | 1½ |

|Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 |

| the breadth | 7½ | 7 | 6 |

|Length of sleeves down the selvage | 9 | 8 | 8 |

|Width of wristband (if required) | 2 | 2 | 2 |

|Length of wristband down the selvage| 4 | 3½ | 3 |

|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2 | 3 |

|Depth of frill | 1¼ | 1 | ¾ |

+------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

This shape is not so much worn as that of Fig. 4, nor perhaps has it

so neat and finished an appearance, but on many accounts it is the

most desirable, being in the first place, more economical; it also

washes more easily, and above all, is particularly convenient in time

of sickness, when it is very essential to a weak or suffering person

to be able to draw open the gown at the neck and wrists, so as to have

full play for the arms in changing her linen, or having blisters,

leeches, &c. applied; whereas those night dresses confined at the neck

in collars are very irksome, and cause much unnecessary suffering in

being removed. The scale and plans so clearly explain the size, shape,

&c. that nothing remains to be said, except that a band is sometimes

worn round the waist, with a narrow frill sewn round the ends, which

are sloped off, according to fancy.

It is better economy to cut three or six gowns together, as the

gussets, binders, &c. take about the third of a breadth, so that in

cutting out one, there is an unavoidable waste of the other two-thirds

of a breadth. The two sleeves cut in the width, and are, for the

largest size, 9 nails long.

ANOTHER NIGHT GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 4.

It is more economical to buy your material of a sufficient width to

merely gore it, if only one gown is to be cut out.

It is better to cross the skirt, and use 1½ breadth of very wide

material, if six are to be cut.

SCALE FOR CROSSED SKIRT.

+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+

| ———————— | Woman. | 18 yrs.| 14 yrs. |

+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+

|Width of material | 18 | 16 | 14 |

|Quantity required for six | 18 14 | 16 15 | 15 0 |

|Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1 6 | 1 3 |

+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+

|Piece to mark off at top and | 7½| 7 | 6 |

+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+

|Width of bottom when crossed | 21 | 18 | 16 |

|Width of top when crossed | 15 | 14 | 12 |

|Length of sleeve down the selvage| 9 | 8 | 7 |

|Width of sleeve | 9 | 8 | 7 |

|Length of binder down the selvage| 10 | 8 | 7 |

|Width of binder | 1½| 1½| 1½|

|Length of collar down the selvage| 8 | 6½| 5 |

|Width of collar | 3 | 2½| 2¼|

| down the selvage | 4 | 3½| 3 |

|Width of wristband | 2 | 2 | 2 |

|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2 | 2 |

|Size of neck-gusset | 2 | 1 | 1 |

|Depth of slit in front | 6½| 6 | 6 |

|Space to leave for shoulders | 3 | 2½| 2 |

|Width of frill | 1¼| 1 | ¾|

+---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+

SCALE FOR A GORED GOWN.

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| ———————— | | 18 yrs. | 14 yrs. |

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| Width of material | 15 | 15 | 14 |

| end of the top | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ |

| Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1 6 | 1 3 |

| Width of sleeve | 7½ | 7½ | 7 |

| Width of binders | 2 | 2 | 1½ |

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

All the other parts are the same as in the scale for the crossed gown.

In cutting out six crossed gowns, tear off the 9 breadths for the

skirts, allowing 1½ breadth to each; after which, cut off the 6 lengths

(9 nails long each) for the sleeves; two sleeves cut in the width.

Next cut off a piece 10 nails long, which divide width-way into twelve

binders of 1½ nail wide each. Afterwards, cut off another breadth of

8 nails long, to divide width-way into six collars of 4 nails width.

The gussets will require two breadths of 3 nails deep, to be divided

width-way also, in six of 3 nails width.

The wristbands are 4 nails long; and as only nine of 2 nails width

can be cut in 1 breadth, the remaining three must be cut off a second

breadth, which will leave sufficient cloth over, exactly to cut the 12

neck-gussets, in two rows deep of 2 nails square. By this arrangement,

no waste whatever is made.

The one gored gown is cut according to the scale; Fig. 8 is a

bosom-bit, which adds much to the strength of the slit. It is

impossible to cut out one of these gowns alone, without a little waste.

PLATE 8. FIG. 6.

This is an exceedingly neat looking night-dress, and for full size is

cut according to the following dimensions. Cut two breadths of 1 yard

wide, and 1½ yard long each, and sew up the seams, leaving 3 nails from

the top for arm-holes. Cut out two shoulder-pieces according to Fig.

7, which represents half, the letter D being the doubled part. If it

is made of calico, put a neat piping round the one shoulder-piece, as

it materially strengthens the night-dress; and after fulling the skirt

evenly round to the other, and setting in the sleeves, lay the upper

shoulder-piece over the lower one. Pipe and frill it up the neck, and

if preferred, a collar may be added, with a second frill above. If the

night-dress is made of linen, it must be neatly stitched instead of

piped. The sleeves are 8 nails square, and the wristband, as in Fig.

11, 4 nails square, to which a frill is added.

FLANNEL WAISTCOAT FOR A LADY.

PLATE 8. FIG. 12.

Cut a piece of flannel 12 nails wide, and 7 nails deep; fold it in two,

and at 2 full nails from the middle or doubled part, cut the arm-holes,

which are 2 full nails wide, and 1¼ nail deep, leaving 2 nails for half

the back; hollow the front half a nail. At the bottom of the waistcoat,

immediately under the arm-holes, cut a slit upwards to the distance of

3 nails, and put into these slits, gores of 3 nails wide at the bottom,

sloped off to a point, being 3 nails long. These gores are differently

cut to most others, being sloped equally on both sides, instead of

having one side straight, so that the point is in a straight line with

the middle of the gore at the bottom (see Fig. 12).

Cut two other slits to admit of bosom gores of similar shape, but

smaller size, being 1¾ nail broad, and 1¾ nail long. They are put in 1

nail from the shoulder-strap.

In making up, herring-bone all round the waistcoat; the slits and

gores, and the seams also, are herring-boned with strong thread, the

seams being turned flatly back, and laid side by side on the finger,

so that the one row of herring-boning shall join the two compactly

together (see Fig. 15). Some persons lay a broad tape, say a nail

wide, down the front, on which the buttons are sewed, and button-holes

worked. Tape shoulder-straps complete the whole. This waistcoat buttons

in the front.

A BOY’S WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 13, 14.

The following size is suitable for a child of 12 years old:—

The waistcoat is made in three parts; the middle piece should be 7

nails wide, and 6½ nails deep; the side-pieces must be the same depth,

and 5 nails wide. Sew up the seams, and fold the waistcoat in four,

like a pinafore, then cut out the arm-holes, which, while thus doubled,

are 1½ nail in width, and the same in depth; the waistcoat is then

opened, and hollowed out in the front (see Fig. 13).

In making up, tape is sewed all round the edge, at the inside, and

broad tapes down the sides, in which the button-holes are cut. Straps

are sewed on, and the whole is finished.

A WAISTCOAT FOR AN INVALID BOY OF THE WORKING CLASS.

PLATE 8. FIG. 16.

Take a breadth and a half of flannel, each 9 nails long, and sew them

together, leaving them open in the front. Fold the waistcoat in four,

and cut the shoulders, and slits for the arm-holes, as in a pinafore;

the shoulders are 1½ nail deep, and the arm-holes 2½ nails long. Hollow

it a little at the top, and after sewing up the shoulders, gather it

at the top into a tape the proper length (say 5 nails). Put in sleeves

without gussets, which are 7 nails long, and 4 nails wide before being

sewed up; hem the fronts, and lay on a broad tape at the inside of the

hem, in which the button-holes are made; herring-bone the bottom and

sleeves.

A MAN’S UNDER WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 17, 18.

This is generally made of fine calico, and is cut out according to the

Plate.

For the back (Fig. 17), cut your paper pattern 9 nails long, and 7

nails wide: double it in half its width, and, as in the Plate, letting

D be the doubled part, mark as follows:—

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From A to the top | 1½ |

| From B to the doubled side | 1½ |

| C is half way, and from C to the side F | 1½ |

| From E to the doubled side | 2 |

+-----------------------------------------+--------+

Curve from A to B, and from A through C to E.

The front is cut as follows:—Let your pattern be 11 nails long, and 8

nails wide (see Plate 8, Fig. 18).

SCALE.

+-------------------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From A to B is | 9 |

| From B to C | 2 |

| From C to D | 2½ |

| The shoulder, from D, slopes | ½ |

| Length of the shoulder | 2 |

+-------------------------------+--------+

The arm-hole is sloped, and is rather difficult to manage, but by

looking at the Plate, and following the directions, as nearly as

possible, the same shape may be attained.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------+---------+

| | Nails. |

| From the arm-hole, S, to the side | 3½ |

| From the bottom, T, to the side | 5 |

| From the point, R, to the top | 2 |

| From the side to R | 1 |

+-----------------------------------+---------+

Curve from R to the bottom, also from D to B, and cut out the arm-hole.

In making up, sew the pieces together, lay on a broad piece of calico

all down the front, lay a tape round the neck, and set on your buttons

down the front, with button-holes to correspond.

This shape, but varying of course in size, will do for boys of all ages.

BOY’S VEST OR UPPER WAISTCOAT.

PLATE 8. FIG. 19, 20.

This is made of cloth, jean, or nankeen. The size here given, would

suit a boy ten or eleven years old.

The vest is in three parts, viz.—one back and two fronts. To cut out

the front (Fig. 19), let your paper pattern be 3½ nails wide, by 4¼

nails long.

SCALE.

+-------------------------+---------+

| | Nails. |

| From the corner to E is | 2¾ |

| From the top to A | ½ |

| From the side to A | ½ |

| From B to each side | 1¾ |

| From C to the top | 1 |

+-------------------------+---------+

Curve in for the arm-hole, from E to A, cut from A to B, and curve from

B to C.

For the back (Fig. 20), let your paper be 5 nails long, by 3¼ nails

wide.

SCALE.

+----------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

| From the top to A | ¼ |

| From the corner to B | 1¼ |

| From the side to C | 1 |

| From the top to C | ¾ |

| From the top to F | 2½ |

| From the corner to E | ¼ |

+----------------------+--------+

Curve slightly from A to B, cut in a straight line from B to C, hollow

for the arm-hole from C to F, cutting into the cloth about 1¼ nail,

slope from F to E.

In making up, join the two shoulders together, then sew E G, Fig.

19, to F E, Fig. 20; line it, bind with galloon or tape round the

neck, arm-holes, waist, and up the fronts, put on buttons, and make

button-holes to correspond in front. Buttons are also put on round the

waist, to which the trowsers are to button, as no braces are worn with

this vest.

CHILD’S NIGHT VEST.

PLATE 8. FIG. 21, 22.

Some children are in the habit (when in bed) of kicking off their

sheets; and it is very desirable for such to wear fine flannel or

demet waistcoats under their night-gowns in winter, and calico ones

in summer, to prevent their catching cold. These waistcoats or vests,

if for children under five or six, may be cut two in the width of the

flannel, and about 8, 10, or 12 nails long, according to the size of

the child. After cutting off the pieces required, fold each in half its

length, and sew up the side-seams, leaving 1½ nail from the top on each

side, to form the arm-holes, which are neatly herring-boned round. The

top is hollowed thus: leave about 1¼ nail on each folded side for the

shoulders, and hollow down to 1½ nail in front, for the bosom, and to 1

nail behind, for the back. Herring-bone flatly all round, and the vest

is completed.

CHILD’S DAY VEST.

PLATE 8. FIG. 23, 24.

Delicate children are often recommended to wear flannel shirts or vests

next their skin. They should be of the finest flannel, with plenty of

nap, which should be next the skin. These are cut much in the same

shape as babies’ second shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 30), excepting that

the back is hollowed out, and it has no sleeves. Two shirts might be

cut in the width, of 8 or 10 nails long. When folded in two, and sewed

up at the seams, leaving 1½ nail for the arm-hole, the front should

be cut. Leave 1¼ nail in each folded side for the shoulders, cut down

nearly straight to 1½ nail for a front flap, and slope down behind to

the same depth.

BATHING GOWN.

PLATE 8. FIG. 25.

Bathing gowns are made of blue or white flannel, stuff, calimanco, or

blue linen. As it is especially desirable that the water should have

free access to the person, and yet that the dress should not cling to,

or weigh down the bather, stuff or calimanco are preferred to most

other materials: the dark coloured gowns are the best for several

reasons, but chiefly because they do not shew the figure, and make the

bather less conspicuous than she would be in a white dress.

As the width of the materials, of which a bathing gown is made, varies,

it is impossible to say of how many breadths it should consist. The

width at the bottom, when the gown is doubled, should be about 15

nails: fold it like a pinafore, slope 3½ nails for the shoulders, cut

or open slits of 3½ nails long for the arm-holes; set in plain sleeves

4½ nails long, 3½ nails wide, and make a slit in front 5 nails long.

In making up, delicacy is the great object to be attended to. Hem

the gown at the bottom, gather it into a band at the top, and run in

strings; hem the opening and the bottom of the sleeves, and put in

strings. A broad band should be sewed in about half a yard from the

top, to button round the waist.

WOMEN’S CAPS.

Women’s caps are generally made of checked, spotted, clear, or twilled

muslin, widow’s lawn, and if for night-caps for the poor, sometimes of

soft fine calico. The borders are of corded, cambric, jaconet, or clear

muslin, and are sometimes, for ladies’ caps, edged with narrow lace, or

are made entirely of hemmed net.

WOMAN’S DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 1, 2

This is a favourite shape for a day-cap among the poor.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+

| |Yds. nls.|

|Width of checked muslin | 1½ 0 |

|Width of crown to cap, four in the width of material, | 6 |

| or, | |

|Length of crown down the selvage | 6½ |

|Width of puffing or head-piece, twenty-four in width | |

| of material, or, | 1 |

|Length of ditto down the selvage | 14 |

|Width of bands to confine the puffing, 48 in the width,| ½ |

| or, | |

|Length of bands down the selvage | 7 |

|Width of strings, forty-eight in the breadth | ½ |

|Length of strings down the selvage | 7 |

|Quantity of material for one cap | 14 |

|Quantity of material for twenty-four | 4 3 |

|Length of bordering to each, three breadths of | 16 |

|Depth of bordering down the selvage | 1¼ |

+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+

Observe, that in the Plates the letter D always stands for the doubled

part of the muslin.

In cutting out these caps, it is by far the most economical to cut out

24 at a time, as, if half that number is cut, half the width of the

length of cloth from which the puffing is cut, is wasted, whereas the

24 exactly fit in.

The crown must be rounded off at the top, for which purpose, double it

in half its width, and at 2 nails from the top corner each way, round,

or slope off the piece from A to B (see Plate 9, Fig. 1).

The cap is made up as follows:—

Double the bands in two, and turn down the edges as if for sewing. Hem

the crown-piece with a very narrow hem up each side, to the distance of

half a nail, and sew it firmly to each end of one of the bands; after

which, whip and stroke evenly the remaining part of the crown, and sew

it to the rest of the band in the middle. To the other side of the

band, full on the head-piece or puffing, which is afterwards confined

on the other side by being whipped and sewed to the second band. The

double border is sewed on in front, and a single one behind, where

previously there has been a pretty deep hem made, to admit of strings

to draw behind. These strings are sewed into the cap, each at the

opposite end of the hem to that on which it comes out. The strings are

hemmed at the end, being either pointed or rounded, according to taste.

Some ladies prefer their being 1 nail wide and rounded at the end, with

a narrow frill or edging sewed on to the distance of 3 or 4 nails round

the ends.

A VERY NEAT NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 3, 4, 5, 6.

This, when made of checked muslin, with a border of corded muslin,

has a very pretty appearance, and is particularly comfortable for a

night-cap, as it sets close to the head.

[Illustration: PLATE 9

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 17

Fig 3 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 18

Fig 28 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 19

Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 24

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 25

Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 26]

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+

| | Yds. nls. |

|Best width of material | 18 |

|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 14 |

|Width of ditto | 4½ |

|Length of horse-shoe down the selvage | 3½ |

|Width of ditto | 2½ |

|Length of strings down the selvage | 7 |

|Width of ditto | ½ |

|Quantity of material for eight | 2 3 |

|Quantity of bordering, 3 breadths of muslin in width | 16 |

|Depth of ditto | 1¼ |

+-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+

The most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once, is

eight, and should be done as follows, to prevent waste (see Fig. 3).

Tear off two lengths of 14 nails, which, when torn each in four, will

form the eight head-pieces. The horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two

rows deep, four in each row, of 2½ nails wide, which will require 10

nails of the breadth, leaving a piece 8 nails wide and 7 nails long.

This piece will cut the eight pairs of strings, which are each half

a nail wide, and 7 nails long. After cutting out the cap, shape the

head-pieces according to Fig. 4 in the Plate, by which it will be seen

that 1¼ nail is taken off in a direct line from A to B. The piece for

the horse-shoe crown must be folded, and rounded carefully at the top,

and then sloped off in a direct line, thus cutting off half a nail from

each side.

In making up the cap, place the straight part of the head-piece in

front, and put two runners, besides hem, at equal distances from

each other in front, say ¾ of a nail. Whip the back neatly, and

after hemming the horse-shoe crown, sew the head-piece firmly to it.

Some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater

firmness, and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in, as

it ought to be, to the bottom, instead of the top of the hem. A hem is

made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw. Double borders in

front, a single one behind, and the strings sewed on, complete the cap.

A YOUNG SERVANT’S NEAT DAY-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 7, 8.

This shape is generally made of clear muslin, widow’s lawn, or jaconet,

and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service, from

its neat simplicity.

SCALE.

+----------------------------------------------+----------+

| | Nails. |

|Best width of material | 16 or 24 |

|Width of cap | 8 |

|Length down the selvage | 5 |

|Quantity required for four caps, if yard wide | 10 |

+----------------------------------------------+----------+

The cap is folded in half the width, and cut according to Fig. 7. The

side marked D is the doubled part. Mark on the opposite side 2 nails

from the top, E, and slope or hollow out a piece from E to H very

gradually, letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not

exceed half a nail.

Next slope off gradually from H to L at the distance of ½ a nail from

the bottom; after which, cut the straight line E K, which is 1 nail in

length, the letter K being situated about ¾ of a nail from the side

and 1¼ from the top, and then slope gradually to M. In making up the

cap, sew from E to K, and gather in the top from K to M, as in Fig. 8.

A single or double border is put in front. This is a small size.

Fig. 18, 19, 27, and 28 are different shaped strings for caps.

ANOTHER NEAT CAP FOR SERVANTS.

PLATE 9. FIG. 9, 10.

This shape is particularly liked by the poor, from the ease with which

it is made up and washed, as, upon undrawing the string, it opens

readily at the top, and lies quite flat to be ironed.

As the shape is peculiar, if many are to be cut at once, it would be

the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper, the

pattern of the cap, according to Fig. 9; open it out and lay it on

the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage. If only

one is to be cut, procure a piece of muslin 8 nails wide and 5½ nails

long; which, when folded evenly in half its width, shape as follows,

according to the Plate. The side marked D is the doubled part; from E

at the bottom to F is 2¼ nails. From the top, G to H, measure 2¼ nails,

and cut off in a sloping line from I, at the top of the doubled corner,

to H, again cut from H to F, after which cut off from F to about ½ a

nail above E, and then the shape of the cap is formed.

Strings of the usual size, ½ nail wide and 7 nails long, complete the

cap.

In making it up, sew from H to Y, and then hem all round the open part

along Y to I, and sew on a full frill of ¾ nail deep, and about 18

nails long. Afterwards hem the front and back of the cap, put double

borders in front, and a single one behind, of 1 nail deep, and 3

breadths of 16 or 18 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 9. FIG. 11, 12.

This is a very simple shape, and for washing and making up is equally

convenient with Fig 10. It answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies, in

which case it might be made of net or tulle, with a quilling or lace

border.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------+----------+

| | Yds. nls.|

|Best width of material | 1 2 |

|Width of cap without runners | 4 |

|Length of cap down the selvage | 9 |

|Sloped off at the bottom from C to A | ½ |

+-------------------------------------+----------+

Fold the cap in half its length, making D the doubled part (see Fig.

11). Sew and fell from A to B, to the depth of 1 nail, and hem round

the rest of the opening behind, to admit of a ribbon. Let there be two

runners besides the hem in front, to admit of tape or narrow ribbon.

The border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended:

if for a night-cap, a double border in front and single behind will be

required: if for a bonnet cap, a double border or quilling only, in

front will be sufficient. It may be as well also to remark, that if it

is meant for a night-cap, the length of the cap down the selvage should

be greater, say 11 or 12 nails; and the width of the material, to cut

to the best advantage, must, of course, be either exactly the same, or

double.

A NEAT SCHOOL-GIRL’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 13, 14.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+

| | Yds. nls. |

|Best width of material | 1 8 |

|Length of the crown down the selvage | 6 |

|Width of the crown, or three in the breadth | 8 |

|Length of the head-piece down the selvage | 8 |

|Width of the head-piece, or twelve in the breadth | 2 |

|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 0 |

|Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 2 12 |

+--------------------------------------------------+-----------+

This pattern needs little further explanation, the shape and size are

so clearly given in the Plate. The head-piece is sloped off at the

ears, beginning to cut at 1 nail above the corner, to 1 nail beyond the

corner, at the bottom of the cap.

This cap is for school girls, and is particularly neat if of checked

muslin with corded muslin frills.

A FAVOURITE CAP FOR LADIES AND POOR WOMEN.

PLATE 9. FIG. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------+---------+

| |Yds. nls.|

|Best width of material | 1 8 |

|Width of crown-piece, three in the width | 8 |

|Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ |

|Width of head-piece, twelve in the breadth | 2 |

|Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 |

|Length of weepers (if wanted) down the selvage | 2½ |

|Width of ditto, sixteen in the breadth | 1½ |

|Length of bands down the selvage (if wanted) | 1 14 |

|Width of ditto, twelve in the width | 2 |

|Quantity required for twelve caps, without extras | 2 2 |

|Quantity for twelve, if with weepers | 2 5 |

|Quantity for twelve, if complete with bands | 4 3 |

|Width of bordering | 1 |

|Length of ditto, two breadths width | 1 8 |

+--------------------------------------------------+---------+

This cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and

weepers, which, of course, add much to the cost; twelve is the best

number to cut out at once. They are generally made for ladies of

sprigged muslin, when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or

fine calico. The borders are cambric, muslin, or net, edged with

Valenciennes lace, or other neat trimming. The weepers are also frilled

and edged, as also the rounded ends of the band. The crown is sloped

off a little at the corner, as seen in Fig. 16, at A, which is about 2

nails from the corner. The weepers are also shaped to a point, as in

Fig. 19 (see B). The band (Fig. 18) is gathered in at about 1½ nail

from the end, which is rounded, with edging sewed on. The middle of the

band is plaited, and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-piece,

in front.

A NEAT COMFORTABLE DAY OR NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 20.

This is a shape particularly suitable for day-caps for young servants,

or night-caps for any age or station. If intended for day-caps, they

should be made of clear or jaconet muslin; if for night-caps, of check

or calico.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------------+----------+

| | Yds. nls.|

|Best width of material | 1 0 |

|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 8 |

|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 |

|Length of crown down the selvage | 6 |

|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 |

|Quantity required for four caps without strings | 14 |

|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 10 |

+-----------------------------------------------------+----------+

| ⁂ Cap strings, for any number of caps not exceeding sixteen, |

| require seven additional nails, as sixteen pairs exactly cut in|

| the width, so that sixteen caps would he the most economical |

| number to cut. |

+----------------------------------------------------------------+

The head-piece is a little sloped off at the ear from A to B, and

is made up double, so as to be only 2 nails deep, when the cap is

completed.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 21.

This shape is very suitable for a servant’s day or bonnet cap; it is

simple and pretty in appearance, and not expensive.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+----------+

| | Yds. nls.|

|Best width of material | 1½ 0 |

|Length of crown down the selvage | 7 |

|Width of ditto, or four in the width | 6 |

|Length of band down the selvage | 8 |

|Width of band[1] | 1 |

|Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 1 13 |

+-----------------------------------------------+----------+

[1] The remainder of the breadth from which the bands are cut will make

strings.

In making it up, the band is doubled in half, the crown whipped and

sewed to it, leaving it plain from A to B, for the space of 1¾ nail. A

double border is sewn on in front.

AN OLD WOMAN’S CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 22, 23.

This shape is generally preferred by old women, as it sets comfortably

over the ears.

SCALE.

+--------------------------------------------------------+----------+

| |Yds. nls.|

|Best width of material | 21 |

|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 7 |

|Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1¾ |

|Length of crown down the selvage | 9 |

|Width of ditto at the widest part, or three in the width| 7 |

|Width of ditto when sloped off at the bottom | 5 |

|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 11 |

|Additional quantity for strings | 7 |

+--------------------------------------------------------+----------+

It is almost impossible to cut out a number of these caps without a

little waste.

The head-pieces, when torn off, are 7 nails long, and 1¾ wide; double

them in half their length, and then slope off from A to B, one nail.

The straight part is the front, to which a border is sewed. The crown

is next shaped, according to Fig. 23, for which purpose, double the

piece in half its width, and from the corner, B, measure 7 nails on the

side to A, and 1 nail on the bottom, to C, and cut off in a straight

line from A to C. Round off the corner at the top, from A to D. The

crown is sewed on plain for the space of 1½ nail from the bottom, and

then evenly fulled into the remainder of the head-piece.

A POOR WOMAN’S NIGHT-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 24, 25, 26.

This shape is sometimes made of linen, but generally of strong calico

or check.

SCALE.

+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+

| |Yds. nls.|

|Best width of material | 18 |

|Length of head-piece down the selvage | 9 |

|Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1½ |

|Size of squares in which to cut out the circular crown,| |

| or two in the breadth | 9 |

|Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 3 15 |

|Additional quantity for twelve pair of strings | 7 |

+-------------------------------------------------------+---------+

The head-piece is sloped off, as in Fig. 24, from A, which is 1½ nail

above the corner, B, to C.

The crown, after being rounded, is evenly fulled into the head-piece,

which latter is sewed neatly together behind, at the opening, D C.

ANOTHER CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 27, 28.

This is a pretty shape for almost any purpose, and in any thin

material; it is cut out in front very much in the same manner that a

baby’s cap is cut behind, which will be seen if the Plate is turned

round, so as to place the doubled part, D, at the top.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------------+---------+

| |Yds. nls.|

|Best width of material | 1 8 |

|Length of cap down the selvage | 5½ |

|Width of ditto, or three in the breadth | 8 |

|Depth from F to A | 1½ |

|Space from A to B, to be cut | 1 |

|Length to be cut from B to C | 2 |

|Then slope gradually, in a circular direction, | |

| from E to C | |

+-----------------------------------------------+---------+

In making up the cap, sew neatly from A to B, and then full in the part

from E to C, evenly to the part between C and B; a hem in the front and

at the back, is next made for a ribbon or tape, and a small bow, either

of the same material (see Fig. 17), or white or coloured ribbon may be

put at B (Fig. 28).

BATHING CAP.

These are made of oil-silk, and are worn, when bathing, by ladies who

have long hair. Cut a piece of oil-silk, 4 nails long and 8 nails wide;

double it so as to make a square; let the doubled part be the back of

the cap, and slope off the corner at the top, towards the back, in a

curve, so as to shape it to the form of the back of the head. Sew up

along the top of the bathing cap, binding it with tape at the seam,

both at the top and in the front. Lay on a tape behind to form a hem,

making oylet-holes at the ears, and passing a string through each

oylet-hole, which is fastened down at the opposite side; these strings

draw up the cap, when worn, to the size required.

It is advisable, however, for those who have not long hair, to bathe in

plain linen caps, so as to admit the water without the sand or grit,

and thus the bather, unless prohibited on account of health, enjoys all

the benefit of the shock without injuring the hair.

These caps are often worn by children when the head is shaved, if

subject to diseases in the head, as ring-worm, scald-head, &c.

DRESSING-GOWNS.

PLATE 10.

Dressing-gowns are generally made of warm materials, for the winter, as

flannels, either printed or plain, merino, shawl, either the real or

imitation, and for gentlemen, of cloth or jean. For summer, they are of

dimity, calico, twilled muslin, and sometimes, though rarely, of silk.

There are various ways of making them; only a few of the most approved

shapes will be here mentioned.

PLATE 10. FIG. 1.

A PLAIN USEFUL SHAPE, ESPECIALLY FOR MEN.

This gown is made with a deep hem turned up, and a strong piping at the

top of it. It is divided into four, and the arm-holes left in the two

front seams, sloping the flannel 1 nail deep, and 2½ nails long, for

the shoulders. The neck-gusset is put in double, and the shoulder-strap

laid over it. The gown must be neatly plaited behind and in front, set

firmly into the double collar, and stitched with strong thread near

the edge. Some people pipe every seam of a dressing-gown with white

or coloured muslin, linen, or glazed calico. The back is drawn up by

means of a string-case, over which a band should button. A large button

is put on the band, and on the collar, and the button-holes should be

very firmly sewed round, either with tape or with button-hole stitch.

After putting in the sleeves, run or back-stitch the plaits firmly down

again, at about ¼ nail below the gathering, to make them lie flat.

[Illustration: PLATE 10.

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 4 Fig 5A Fig 5B Fig 6

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12

Fig 9 Fig 13 Fig 14

Fig 15 Fig 16

Fig 20 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 18 Fig 17

Fig 19 Fig 21 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29]

SCALE.

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+

|Width of flannel | 14 | 14 | 14 |

|Quantity required for one |10 5 | 8 10 | 6 0 |

|Length of skirts | 2 0 | 1¾ 0 | 1¼ 0 |

|Number of breadths | 4 0 | 4 0 | 4 0 |

|Length of sleeve down the selvage | 12 | 10 | 8 |

|Width of ditto | 9 | 8 | 7 |

|Length of shoulder-strap | 4½ | 4 | 3½ |

|Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ | 1 |

|Size of double neck-gusset | 2½ | 2 | 2 |

|Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 3 | 2½ |

|Width of collar | 5 | 6 | 4 |

|Length down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 8 |

|Width of wristband | 2½ | 2 | 2 |

|Length of ditto down the selvage | 4½ | 4 | 4 |

|Width of band | 2½ | 2 | 2 |

|Length of ditto down the selvage | 20 | 12 | 12 |

|Space to cut for the shoulders | 2½ | 2 | 2 |

|Depth for the shoulders to slope | 1 | 1 | ¾ |

+----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+

PLATE 10. FIG. 2.

This figure represents a dressing-gown made of dimity. A deep hem of

3 or 4 nails is made at the bottom, insertion-work is sewed up the

fronts, and round the cape, collar, and wrists, at the edge of the work

a frill is put on. The gown is fulled in evenly to the shoulder-strap

and neck-gusset at the top, and may be confined or not, at the waist

behind, according to pleasure. The front is generally left unconfined,

so that the band alone arranges it in folds.

FIG. 2, 3.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+

| —————————— | Woman’s | Woman’s |

| |large size.|small size.|

+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+

| |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |

|Width of material | 14 | 14 |

|Number of breadths | 3 breadths| 3 breadths|

|The one breadth crossed off at the top | 5 | 5½ |

|Length of breadths | 1¾ 0 |1½ 0 |

|Length of shoulder-strap | 3¼ | 3¼ |

|Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ |

|Length of neck-band or case | 10 | 9 |

|Space for shoulder | 3½ | 3½ |

|Length of arm-hole | 3 | 2½ |

|Arm-hole curved into the cloth | 1¼ | 1 |

|Length of waist | 5 | 4½ |

|Length of string-case | 10 | 8 |

|Sleeve cut according to Plate 12, |Fig. 5 & 6 |Fig. 5 & 6 |

| Fig. 5 and 6 | | |

|Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 |

|Cape cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |

+-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+

PLATE 10. FIG. 3.

This gown, made of flannel, either plain or printed, is plaited in

small regular folds at the neck, where a string-case of muslin or

white ribbon is put for a string to pass through. The gown is again

plaited in the same folds at the waist, in two rows, to which another

string-case is sewed all round the waist. A deep hem is made at the

bottom, and turned up with a piping of white; or if it is a printed

flannel, of some coloured glazed calico or muslin; the ribbons in front

are the same colour, and a flannel band is piped with it, as well as

the wristbands and every seam on the shoulders, round the sleeves, &c.

The sleeves should be stitched down about 1 nail below the shoulder, to

make the fulness lie close and flat. If made of printed flannel, it is

useful to wear at the sea-side, as a walking dress, to and from bathing.

CLOAK DRESSING-GOWN.

PLATE 10. FIG. 4.

This is a comfortable simple pattern; it can be made either of flannel

or lighter material, and is equally suitable for men, women, and

children; it is very convenient for the latter when taken out of a

bath, or for sitting up in bed.

SCALE.

+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+

| —————————— | Man. | Woman. |Girl of 16 yrs.|

+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+

|Length of skirt |2 0 |1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 |

|Number of breadths |4 0 |4 0 | 4 0 |

|Space for shoulder | 2 | 1 | 1 |

|Depth of arm-holes | 5 | 4 | 3½ |

|Length of string-case | 12 | 10 | 9 |

|Length of band | 16 | 14 | 12 |

|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 |

|Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 |

|Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |

|Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 |

| | | | |

+-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+

| —————————— | Girl of 10 yrs. |Child of 5 yrs.|

+-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+

| | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |

|Length of skirt | 1¼ 0 | 1½ 0 |

|Number of breadths | 3 0 | 3 0 |

|Space for shoulder | ¾ | ¾ |

|Depth of arm-holes | 3½ | 3 |

|Length of string-case | 8 | 7 |

|Length of band | 10 | 8 |

|Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 4 | Fig. 4 |

|Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 31 | Fig. 13 |

|Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 |

|Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 |

| | cut smaller | cut smaller |

+-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+

After the seams have been herring-boned up, the cloak is folded in

four, to find the shoulders, which are cut in a gentle slope to the

proper width, and sewed up. The arm-holes having been left, the sleeves

are next put in, after which, the gown is fulled evenly into the double

shoulder-piece; the collar and cape are next put on; the hem at the

bottom should be deep, and turned up with a flannel or tape piping;

down the sides and round the cape, collar, &c., should be bound with

flannel binding, to give a finish. Some persons omit the sleeves,

having merely slits for the arms.

A DRESSING JACKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 5, 6.

Some persons merely wear a little flannel, calico, or twilled muslin

dressing jacket, and as it is usually made to fit the figure, the

breadths are much gored; for the purpose, therefore, of better

explaining the shape, a figure is made of the breadth when cut out.

Fig. 5 A, is half of the back breadth, which is doubled in two, and

Fig. 5 B is the whole of one of the front breadths.

SCALE.

+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+

+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+

|Number of breadths | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 |

|Width of material |12 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls.|

|Length of each breadth|14 — |12 — |10 — | 8 — |

|Length of sleeve |12 — |10 — | 8 — | 8 — |

|Width of ditto |10 — | 8 — | 8 — | 8 — |

|Length of collar | 8 — | 6½ — | 6 — | 5½ — |

|Width of ditto | 3 — | 3 — | 2 — | 2 — |

|Size of neck-gusset | 2 — | 1¾ — | 1½ — | 1¼ — |

|Length of arm-hole | 4 — | 4 — | 3½ — | 3 — |

|Length of string-case | 4 — | 3½ — | 3½ — | 3 — |

|Space for shoulder | 3¾ — | 3½ — | 3 — | 2½ — |

|Length of skirt-gusset| 4 — | 3 — | 3 — | 2½ — |

|Breadth of ditto | 2 — | 1½ — | 1½ — | 1½ — |

+----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+

FIG. 5 A.

Or half the back of the jacket when cut out, supposing the breadth to

be folded exactly in two.

Let A L be the folded side.

SCALE.

+---------------------------+-------+

| | Nails.|

+---------------------------+-------+

| Space from A to B | 5½ |

| Do. do. B to C | 2½ |

| Do. do. C to D | 3½ |

| Do. do. D to E | 1¼ |

| Do. do. D to F | 2½ |

| Do. do. F to G | ¾ |

| Do. do. F to H | 3 |

| Do. do. H to I | 1½ |

| Do. do. H to J | ½ |

| Do. do. J to K | 3 |

| Do. do. K to L | 2½ |

+---------------------------+-------+

FIG. 5 B.

Or the whole of one of the front breadths.

SCALE.

+--------------------+--------+

| | Nails. |

+--------------------+--------+

| Space from A to B | 4 |

| Do. do. B to C | 4½ |

| Do. do. C to D | 1 |

| Do. do. C to E | 2½ |

| Do. do. E to F | 2¾ |

| Do. do. E to G | 1 |

| Do. do. G to H | 2¾ |

| Do. do. H to I | 2¼ |

| Do. do. I to J | 6 |

| Do. do. J to K | 12 |

+--------------------+--------+

In making up this jacket, sew the 3 breadths together, putting in at

the bottom two gussets or triangular pieces. Make a narrow hem at the

bottom, sew up the shoulders, and put in the sleeves. Set the back

breadth plainly into the collar, but full it at each end into the neck

gusset, and also in front. Put the string-case about a nail lower than

the arm-holes.

FLANNEL PETTICOATS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 7.

The breadths of flannel are cut according to the height of the person,

allowing a good tuck besides, to be let down after the petticoat has

been washed.

SCALE.

First or largest size, for a full grown woman:—3 breadths

of flannel sewed simply together; slit behind 6 nails

deep, and opened in a seam.

Second size, for a middle sized woman, 2½ breadths; the half

is crossed off 5 nails, and the two gores are sewed,

one on each side, between the two plain breadths; slit

behind 5 nails; it is made in the middle of one of

the plain breadths. It is more economical to cut two

petticoats at once, as 5 breadths will make two, but it

requires 3 to cut one out, and there must be waste.

Third size, for a girl of fourteen or sixteen, 2 breadths.

From 1 breadth is cut a gore of 5 nails at the top,

sloped off to 1 nail; this gore is sewed at the opposite

side of the same breadth, placing the 1 nail width at

the narrow end of the breadth. The slit behind must be

determined by doubling the petticoat exactly in half,

letting it be about 4 nails long.

Another way of cutting this petticoat, is by crossing it

like a shift, and then putting the two broader ends to

the bottom, while the narrow part is at the top; by this

method there is no waste, and it saves both time and

trouble.

Fourth size, 2 breadths: 1 breadth is cut in half, and 1

half is gored 5 nails; the two gores are sewed, one on

each side of the whole breadth, in front, and the half

breadth is put in behind. The slit is torn down the

middle of the half-breadth, and is 4 nails long.

Fifth size, for a girl eight or ten, 1½ breadth. The ½

breadth is gored, and the whole breadth torn in half;

a gore is sewed on each side between the two half breadths.

Slit behind 3 nails deep, in the middle of the ½ breadth,

behind.

Sixth size, for a child five or six, 1½ or 2 breadths, sewed

simply together without goring. Slit 3 nails long behind.

Petticoats are variously made up. The most usual way is plaiting the

top in regular folds on each side, letting it be quite plain, or nearly

so, in front; it is then set firmly into a linen, calico, or jean band,

of the proper width to encircle the waist, and of 1 nail deep when

doubled and turned in. Strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band,

and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band, about 2 nails

from the end, through which the tape of the opposite end is drawn,

which makes the petticoat set neatly to the figure.

Another manner is to make the petticoat up without any slit behind,

so as to be a round skirt; a band of the same size is set on quite

plainly, without plait or fulness (see Fig. 8). A runner is made

all round in the middle of the band, and two button-holes for the

strings to come out of, are made at the two sides of the petticoat

under the arm; one tape is sewed firmly down at the end of one of the

button-holes, carried all round the petticoat, and drawn out again at

the same hole; the other tape, in a similar manner, is sewed down at

the other button-hole: when the petticoat is on, and the tapes drawn

and tied in front, the fulled part lies behind, forming a sort of

bustle to set off the dress properly (see Fig. 9).

The tops for children’s petticoats are generally a kind of stay, to

which the skirt is either sewed or fastened by means of buttons, and to

which the drawers button also. For children’s stays, see Plate 11.

POCKETS.

PLATE 10.

Pockets are either worn tied round the waist, fastened into the

petticoat, or buttoned upon the stays. When fastened into the

petticoat, they are made of the same material, otherwise of dimity,

calico, jean, twilled muslin, and sometimes of nankeen or brown jean.

Take a doubled piece of six nails width-way, and seven nails

selvage-way when doubled, and cut according to Fig. 10. For this

purpose, double the folded piece in half width-way, and slope off

from A to B one nail. The hole in the pocket is slit down about four

nails, beginning at three-quarters of a nail from the top. Cut the

slit in the shape of an I, in order to allow of a deep hem being made

on each side. The two pieces of the pocket are run firmly together

all round, at a little distance from the edge, on the wrong side. It

is then turned inside out, the seam well flattened, and back-stitched

all round with white silk, about a quarter of an inch from the edge.

The top is set into a broad piece of tape, which is doubled over it

and forms the strings also. The slit is hemmed or back-stitched neatly

down. Sometimes an inner pocket or pockets are made for a watch, &c.,

and this is done by sewing a square piece of the material inside the

pocket. The top is left open, but the sides and bottom of it are firmly

sewed down.

ANOTHER POCKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 11.

This differs from the other merely in having the slit cut the contrary

way, so as to open width, instead of length-wise.

ANOTHER POCKET.

PLATE 10. FIG. 13, 14.

This shape is preferred by some persons, as it sets better to the

figure than the others. The straight side is worn in front; and, in

cutting out a pair of pockets, care must be taken to make them for

the right and left side. The shape is exactly the same as Fig. 10,

excepting that, after they are cut out, a gore is taken off from the

one side and sewed on to the other, by which means the one is straight

and the other, in consequence of the addition, is very much sloped.

When pockets are fastened into gowns and petticoats, they are a

little fulled at the top, and the slit of the pocket is sewed to the

corresponding slit of the petticoat. Some people cut out the slit for

the pocket differently, as they are considered to lie flatter to the

person than the usual shaped pocket. It is formed by making an oblong

bag or pocket, about eight nails long and five nails wide, and cutting

at one end, in a slanting direction, so as to take off a triangular

piece. To save waste, it is better to make two pockets at once, letting

the oblong piece be still five nails wide, when doubled, but fifteen

nails long (see Fig. 12); crease it in half its length, and then cut,

in a slanting direction, across from A to B. The part cut forms the

slit or opening to the pocket, which is sewed all round to the slit in

the petticoat or gown.

ANOTHER METHOD.

This is simply a lining or square piece of calico, about ten nails

wide and eight nails deep, sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite

plainly. The petticoat has a slit of four nails deep.

FRILLS.

Frills are in use when high gowns are worn, and are made of cambric,

muslin, net, lace, tulle, crape, &c.

A SIMPLE FRILL.

This is merely a strip of muslin, about fourteen nails long and three

nails wide, more or less, according to pleasure. It is merely hemmed

all round, and simply plaited up, in regular folds, to the proper size.

A PARTICULARLY NEAT FRILL.

PLATE 10. FIG. 15.

This is made of net or clear muslin, and is neatly fulled to the band.

The edge, instead of being hemmed, is rolled over a bobbin to stiffen

it. The band is about half a nail wide, and doubled, and is nine nails

long. The frill on each side is fourteen nails long, and two nails

wide. A button-hole is put in the middle to fasten it to the gown, and

it ties at the ends with ribbons.

A CRIMPED FRILL.

PLATE 10. FIG. 16.

This is very suitable for young children, especially boys, and is

generally made of lawn or cambric. The frill should be double the

length of the size round the neck, and about one nail wide. A neat hem

at one edge, and the other is sewed to a band of the proper length, say

about five nails, and of half a nail in depth. These frills should be

crimped very neatly.

PLATE 10. FIG. 17.

This frill is to be made like Fig. 15, excepting that the muslin is

only one nail deep, and crimped in the same manner as Fig. 16. It is

very suitable for young children.

PLATE 10. FIG. 18.

Another and more ornamental frill, made of muslin or net, with edging

sewed on it.

The muslin or net must be about four nails wide, and fourteen or

sixteen nails long. The frill is creased down the middle, and on each

side of the crease, at a quarter of a nail distance, it is neatly

run with a long thread, and drawn up to the proper width, forming a

puffing in the centre of the frill. This puffing is first stroked with

the needle into an even fulness, and then sewed at each side close to

the gatherings, to a band of a quarter of a nail wide only, or still

narrower, so as to raise the puffing sufficiently to look well, and yet

not too much to admit of a ribbon being drawn smoothly through it. This

ribbon ties the frill round the neck.

PLATE 10. FIG. 19.

This is a very simple frill, and, when well made, looks remarkably

neat. The net of which it is composed must be about two nails and a

quarter wide, creased in the middle, and finely plaited in small neat

plaits. It is then doubled, and bound on the outside down the folded

centre with a narrow ribbon, so that the two sides of the frill lie

close together, instead of being open, like Fig. 18.

ANOTHER FRILL.

This kind, which is sometimes called a Ruche, is made exactly contrary

to the usual mode. The frill, instead of being run down the middle,

is joined down the sides, and confined at the joining into a ribbon,

so that the top of the frill is double; and as it is usually made of

tulle, or some rather stiff material, it stands out stiffly from the

neck. Pelerines have sometimes a double frill or Ruche, of the same

material that they are made of, sewed to them.

CUFFS.

PLATE 10.

There are various kinds of cuffs, for different purposes, of which the

most useful only are here explained.

TIDY CUFFS.

PLATE 10. FIG. 20, 21.

Tidy cuffs are much worn by persons whose employments are apt to injure

the sleeve of the gown, either by wearing it out, staining, or greasing

it. They are very valuable whilst drawing, writing, pasting, or when

in the kitchen; and in these cases are generally made of Holland or

nankeen, and when braided with dark blue, green, crimson, brown, or

any other suitable colour, with ribbons to lace up of the same, they

have a particularly neat effect. The cuff is cut out as follows (Fig.

21):—Procure a piece of Holland four nails down the selvage, and five

nails wide; double it in half its width, and slope down by the selvage

from A to D, and from B to C, cutting off half a nail in a direct

slope, so that, when open, the end, C D, is but four nails wide, while

A B is five. Turn down a deep hem along each of the sloped sides half

a nail deep, and over the stitches put a braid, with two other rows of

the same close together on the hem, leaving sufficient space between to

insert a thin whalebone to support the cuff, and keep it from wrinkling

when on the arm. The lace-holes are worked with silk the same colour as

the ribbon. Fig. 20 represents the cuff when laced up.

PLATE 10. FIG. 22.

This is a neat cuff to lay on the dress, and is either made of plain

net, of lace, or of muslin, with or without edging, and sometimes of

satin ribbon. If for mourning, the net should have a broad hem. It is

gathered and sewed into a band about one nail deep, and three or three

and a half wide, according to the size of the wrist. There should be

two pearl buttons set on one end, and button-holes made to correspond.

PLATE 10. FIG. 23.

This is a plain band, to be made to fit the wrist exactly, of silk,

satin, or velvet, to be laid on a thin evening sleeve. It may be one

nail broad or more. A rouleau is sometimes laid on round it, or a

narrow piping. If it is made of silk the colour of the dress, or of

white silk embroidered, it has a very pretty effect.

PLATE 10. FIG. 24.

This is a dress cuff, to wear with lace or tulle sleeves, and may be

made of any rich material, with a piping of satin and an edging of

blonde or lace. The inside is sometimes embroidered in floss silk. In

cutting it out, procure a piece of paper about two nails and a half

deep, and four nails long; double it in half its length, and measure

up the side from A to C, one nail and a quarter, leaving from C to the

upper edge, J, one nail and a quarter also. Cut off the corner from E

to C, curving it a little inwards, and again, from C to A, cut off in a

direct line one quarter of a nail. Open it, and it will resemble Fig.

24 exactly.

PLATE 10. FIG. 25.

This cuff resembles the preceding one, but has, in addition, a small

second cuff laid on the lower part of it, and a slit cut down from the

top to about one nail and a quarter depth from A to B. The top of the

second cuff comes just below the slit, and it is a little sloped away

at the sides.

PLATE 10. FIG. 26.

A cuff worn in deep mourning, especially by widows, and made either

of clear muslin or black crape. It consists of fold lying upon fold,

and is either sewed upon the sleeve or made to slip over the hand. The

folds are four or five in number, and lie just one above the other,

each being about a quarter of a nail deep.

PLATE 10. FIG. 27.

This is to be worn as a trimming or edging, below the sleeve, upon

the hand: the band buttons inside the sleeve. The frill is of muslin,

cambric, net, or lace. It should be very full, and got up in puffs, or

very finely crimped. The ends of the bands should have deep hems, in

which the button-holes are worked. The band is about three-quarters of

a nail deep, and three or three nails and a half wide.

PLATE 10. FIG. 28.

This is a neat simple little cuff, and suits the collar, Plate 13, Fig.

26. It is well adapted for mourning. Cut two pieces of muslin, net,

lawn, or cambric, of two nails square, and hem each round with a broad

hem; sew the two together to the depth of about one nail; the parts

sewed together form a sort of band inside, while the others, being

unattached, fall backwards over the sleeve.

PLATE 10. FIG. 29.

A simple, plain, mourning cuff, with a broad hem above and below. The

cuff to be about two nails deep, and three and a half or four nails

long, according to the size of the wrist.

APRONS.

PLATE 11.

If for common use, aprons are made of white, brown, blue, black, or

checked linen, of black stuff, calico, Holland, leather, nankeen,

print, or long cloth; if for better purposes, of cambric muslin, clear,

mulled, or jaconet muslin, silk, satinette, satin, &c. The length of

the apron is, of course, generally determined by the height of the

wearer, and the width, by that of the material, and by the purpose for

which it is intended. For working aprons, the width is generally one

breadth of a yard wide; for dress aprons, two breadths, one of which

is cut in half, and these halves put one on each side of the whole

breadth. If the material should be wide enough, one breadth, of from

fourteen to twenty nails, will answer very well.

DRESS APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 1.

This is made of satinette, or thick satin silk, and consists of two

breadths, one in front, and a half-breadth sewed on each side of it.

None of them are to be at all sloped. The length is regulated by the

pleasure of the wearer, and a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail

deep is made all round. The length of the band must vary according to

the size of the waist, and must be cut by Fig. L, which represents

it when doubled. The part from A to B, or that to which the apron is

fulled, is five nails and a half; from A to C is one nail and a half;

and from B to D is one full nail. The remainder of the band, from

B D, onwards to F, is determined by the size of the waist. A piece

of whalebone is stitched into the centre of the band, A C, and on

each side of it a little chain-stitch is worked, in thick silk, of

the same colour as the apron. The folds are exactly according to the

Plate, beginning within the hem, and laid evenly along until below the

whalebone, when a space is left. The chain-stitch is next worked in

two rows, parallel with the curved shape of the band, allowing little

more than a quarter of a nail between the rows. By this means the folds

are neatly confined, and it prevents the bustling effect they might

otherwise have. These folds are very small and close. The band has a

small piping below, but is plain at the top, and fastens behind with

hooks and eyes.

[Illustration: PLATE 11

Fig L Fig P

Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 5

Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9

Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13

Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 26

Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25

Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 27 Fig 28

Fig 29 Fig 30 Fig 32

Fig 31

Fig 33]

PLATE 11. FIG. 2.

This apron is generally made of silk, but looks well also in muslin.

It requires care in the making as well as in the washing. The vandykes

are formed by turning the edge of the apron down once, all round, to

about three-quarters of a nail deep; and, after tacking it firmly down,

vandykes are neatly run, in very small stitches (Fig. 5), from the

edge of the apron to pretty near the rough edge of the silk, leaving

sufficient to turn in well afterwards:—thus, let the vandykes be run

to the depth of from A to B, leaving a small space all the way from B

to C. When finished turn each vandyke inside out, and smooth all the

wrinkles at the corners and points with a stiletto or scissors. When it

is well and evenly pulled out, turn in the rough edge and hem it neatly

down. Sometimes a little braid, or a row of chain-stitch, is put over

the stitches on the right side. The plaits are regularly laid, those

on each side being folded towards the middle. The band is frequently

lined with buckram or stiff muslin, and is made with or without piping.

Scollops are sometimes substituted for vandykes.

PLATE 11. FIG. 3.

This apron is of muslin, either clear or otherwise. A broad hem is made

all round, of the proper width to admit a coloured or white ribbon of

the half or three-quarter nail breadth. Some fine work or edging may

be sewed to the hem all round. The band should be open at the ends to

admit of the ribbon that ties it being drawn out when the apron is

washed. The hem all round should also be kept open at the ends for the

same purpose, and merely tacked up when the ribbon is put in.

PLATE 11. FIG. 4.

This is an apron with a broad hem all round, and a full frill of any

fine material.

PLATE 11. FIG. 6.

A clear muslin apron, with a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail

deep, and a shawl bordering laid all round within the hem, either half

or three-quarters of a nail deep. This is a pretty apron for a young

person. The bordering must be taken off before the apron is washed.

PLATE 11. FIG. 7.

This represents the bottom of an apron when hollowed out. It has a

simple broad hem, turned up with a piping.

PLATE 11. FIG. 8.

The broad hem here is surrounded by a deep crimped frill of about a

nail broad. These aprons are generally made of jaconet or cambric

muslin, and the frill of cambric or lawn. They are very suitable for

ladies to wear in a morning when cutting out, or in the housekeeper’s

room.

PLATE 11. FIG. 9.

This is a pretty evening apron, made with a broad hem, and muslin

insertion-work let in all round, inside which, coloured ribbon may or

may not be run. Edging, either of lace or worked muslin, is put on all

round.

APRON POCKETS.

These vary very much, some being laid on the apron as in Fig. 3, 4,

and 6; others put on at the back, a slit being made in the apron to

correspond with the place of the pockets. These last are made as

in Fig. P, from a long double piece, which, being sewed up, is cut

diagonally or crosswise, from A to B, and forms two pockets, the part

cut being sewed to the slit of the apron. The whole length of the

narrow piece, before it is cut, is six nails, and the width, when

double, two nails. The slit in the apron is neatly hemmed, and a

trimming of ribbon or silk put round it, with a bow at the bottom, or a

fringe and tassels.

In Fig. 3 the pocket is a piece of two nails and a half deep and five

nails wide. This piece is plaited in regular folds at the top to a

lining of only two nails and a half deep, and the same width. The

bottom is fulled nearly to a point in small folds, and the lining,

being turned in to the same shape, is sewed to it with a piping. The

pocket is then stitched firmly on to the apron, and trimmed according

to fancy. One or three small bows are put on the pocket.

In Fig. 4 the pocket is cut in the shape of a heart, and put plainly on

the apron. It is about two nails and three-quarters wide, and two nails

and a half deep. The pocket is piped or trimmed with edging.

In Fig. 6 the pocket is particularly neat and pretty, being made of

folds of the same material as the apron, with a coloured piping all

round it, and three bows the same colour as the piping.

COMMON APRONS.

The simplest kind, and that generally worn by working men, is a yard

wide or more, hemmed at the bottom and at the top, with a string run

through to tie round the waist. It is thus worn by brewers, &c.

PLATE 11. FIG. 10.

This is a simple shape, and the one most in use. It is either plaited

or gathered into the band, which is about a nail deep. These aprons

are usually worn by all servants and women while at work. Blue, check,

and brown linen are most used for scouring and cleaning; white linen,

Holland, and print, for less dirty employments. Ladies wear them of

silk or muslin, with or without pockets.

PLATE 11. FIG. 11.

This is a pretty apron, often worn by girls from eight to sixteen or

eighteen years of age. The bib is made of the proper size to fit in

front, between the shoulders of the wearer, coming down in a slope to

the waist. These bibs may be plain, or they are ornamented with tucks

or folds, either upright or length-wise. The shoulder-strap may be of

the same material, or of tape or ribbon. The apron is gathered evenly,

or plaited so as to reach to A on each side, which is situated exactly

between the bottom of the bib and the shoulder-strap behind.

PLATE 11. FIG. 12.

May be worn either as a common or as a pretty dress apron, according

to the material and trimming. It may be made of silk, coloured

muslin, or print. After being properly gathered into the band, two

shoulder-straps, in the form of four lappets, are cut out, either

pointed, as in A, or rounded, as in B. These lappets may be piped, and

either edged with lace or fringe, or left plain. For a full size, the

lappet is five nails along the selvage, from D to C, and one nail and

three-quarters from C to B. The two straps are sewed together at C, and

fastened with a bow of ribbon. The lappet is piped all round with a

strong cord, to make it wear well.

PLATE 11. FIG. 13.

This shape is much worn by men servants, apothecaries, grocers,

&c., and is simply gathered into a band, leaving a piece of two

nails unattached to it, A B, which is hemmed at the top, and falls

negligently down.

A COOKING APRON.

PLATE 11. FIG. 14.

This is a neat pattern for a housekeeper, cook, or kitchen-maid. The

bib is quite plain, and pins to the gown at the corners. The size given

in the Plate is suitable for a girl, but the bib should be cut to suit

the wearer at once, and not made by guess. The apron is made of check

or strong linen.