Transcriber’s Notes:
Underscores “_” before and after a word or phrase indicate _italics_
in the original text.
Equal signs “=” before and after a word or phrase indicate =bold=
in the original text.
Small capitals have been converted to SOLID capitals.
Illustrations have been moved so they do not break up paragraphs.
Deprecated spellings have been preserved.
Typographical and punctuation errors have been silently corrected.
[Illustration: =FRONTISPIECE=]
_She stretcheth out her hand to the Poor.—
_She looketh well to the ways of her Household._
_Provˢ. 31 Ch._
Frontispiece to the Work Woman’s Guide.—Pubᵈ. by Stephen Marshall & Cᵒ.
THE
WORKWOMAN’S GUIDE,
CONTAINING
INSTRUCTIONS TO THE INEXPERIENCED IN CUTTING OUT AND COMPLETING
THOSE ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL, &c., WHICH ARE USUALLY
MADE AT HOME; ALSO, EXPLANATIONS ON UPHOLSTERY,
STRAW PLATTING, BONNET-MAKING, KNITTING, &c.
BY A LADY.
“_METHOD SHORTENS LABOUR._”
LONDON:
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT:
THOMAS EVANS, COLMORE ROW, BIRMINGHAM.
1838.
BIRMINGHAM:
PRINTED BY THOMAS EVANS, COLMORE ROW.
PREFACE.
“But to know
That which before us lies in daily life;
Is the prime wisdom.”
MILTON.
The Author of the following pages has been encouraged to hope, that,
in placing them, after much deliberation, in the hands of a printer,
she is tendering an important and acceptable, however humble, service
to persons of her own sex, who, in any condition of life, are engaged,
by duty, or inclination, in cutting out wearing apparel in a family,
or for their poorer neighbours. She trusts, in particular, that
Clergymen’s Wives, Young Married Women, School-mistresses, and Ladies’
Maids may find, in the “Workwoman’s Guide,” a fast and serviceable
friend.
The patterns, which comprise all the necessary parts of clothing in
great variety, to suit both rich and poor, have been some years in
collecting, and are given as the most generally approved shapes and
sizes in present use. Economy and neatness of appearance have been
equally consulted in choosing them, and all have been successfully
tried. In selecting and arranging the Infant’s wardrobe, the comfort of
the little wearers and ease of dressing, have been accurately studied.
Interested by the feelings of a Mother in this division of her book,
the Author has worked at it with especial zeal and assiduity, and
submits it with particular confidence.
To assist the unpractised in understanding the written descriptions,
almost every pattern is likewise drawn twice (see Plates), so as not
only to represent its appearance when cut out, but also when made up.
The difficulty of describing irregular and complicated shapes has
been obviated by enclosing each in a square, marked with a scale of
nails; by which means, even sleeves, collars, capes, and bonnets can
be cut out with unfailing precision. In a charity school, for which
the Author was much interested, and for the use of which, both her
collection of patterns was originally begun, and her drawings made,
girls from ten to sixteen years of age were in the constant habit of
cutting out correctly and easily, with no other guidance than the
drawings. To sketch the pattern on a slate, and to cut it out first in
paper, was all the facility afforded to, or needed by, beginners.
The Reader, as she advances, will see that this work is not confined to
the simply cutting out and making up articles of dress, but likewise
includes the important subjects of House Linen and Upholstery, and that
the minor branches of knitting and straw platting have their places.
Directions which, it is trusted, will be found useful, respecting
various other points of domestic industry, are not omitted.
On the general plan of the work, and the motives which have induced
the writer to venture it before the Public, she need not, perhaps, say
more. A few words are near her heart, which she does not resist the
temptation of adding.
A woman, who in the upper classes of society, has taken her place at
the head of a family, has undertaken a high and responsible situation;
but one, in which, by daily attention to certain humble details, she
can essentially serve the welfare of some who are dear to her, and of
many who are dependent on her.
The Author, as an Englishwoman, reflects with pride upon the number
of her country women, whom the gifts of nature, and a brilliant or
careful education enables to grace their place in society. She believes
that very many of them are further qualified, as far as good will
and natural intelligence can go, to discharge those humbler, but not
less honourable, parts of their calling, to which she has alluded,
but are deterred from applying to them (or much embarrassed if they
do), from finding that, whilst they are proficients in many beautiful
accomplishments, and not without cultivation in the more solid parts
of information, they are yet mere novices in other unostentatious
attainments, that have become indispensable to their domestic
efficiency. The complete remedy for this inconvenience can only be
found in making some further knowledge of domestic arts and economy a
prominent part of the education of our daughters; home and school must
both be called upon to contribute. Amongst the arts in question, the
homely one of cutting out is entitled to rank high, for subserviency
to comfort and elegance, as well as to economy, whenever this is an
object, and in what fortune can it wisely be neglected? It is one which
may seem peculiarly fitted to be taught in schools, by the conveniency
of the means for teaching, by its cleanliness, and, if the Author may
be allowed to say so, by its intellectual character, since to cut
out well, it is necessary to think, and indeed the art, continually
depending upon exact measurements, proportions and even correct
diagrams, or figures, must be considered as a sort of unassuming
household mathematics. Dress, it seems, has of late been admitted by
philosophical critics to the dignity of a fine art: it both requires
and cultivates taste, and the consideration of a pleasing effect and
air in dress is first applied in the cutting out.
No one who has not been a frequent visitor in the homes of the poor,
is aware of the extravagance and waste usual among women of a humble
class, arising from their total ignorance in matters of cutting out
and needle-work, nor how much instruction they want on those points,
even to the making of a petticoat and a pinafore. The same ignorance
and unskilfulness, and the same consequent waste of laborious and
scanty earnings is common among our female household servants; who, by
putting out their clothes to dress-makers, pay nearly half as much for
the making up as for the materials. The direct saving of expense upon
articles of dress, were they qualified to work for themselves, would,
with all persons in these conditions of life, be an important annual
item. But the indirect and further benefit would be of infinitely more
account. The thrifty disposition, the regularity and neatness, the
ideas of order and management, inspired by the conscious ability and
successful exertion, in one leading branch of good housewifery, cannot
be too highly prized or diligently cultivated; for the result is moral.
The orderly house but reflects the orderly mind; the humble wife and
mother, whose active indefatigable hand, silently executing her careful
ingenious thought, improves the comforts, the visible respectability,
and real condition of her husband and children, is mistress of a secret
for blending her best and tenderest affections with the employment of
every day: she contrives judiciously what she constantly and earnestly
meditates, and finds no weariness in the labour to which strength
continually flows from a deep fountain in her heart.
Personal investigation alone can satisfy those ladies who interest
themselves in the welfare of the poor, how useful a kindness they would
exercise in making efficient systematic instruction, in these arts, an
ordinary and important part of school business.
Could the Author hope that the little work, in which she has
endeavoured to arrange the elements of cutting out progressively,
would ever be admitted as a manual in the village school-room, a
cherished wish of her heart would be gratified; in the mean time, she
will be glad to think, that she may have saved some wives and mothers,
entering upon their arduous vocations, a part of the inconveniences
experienced by herself, although accounted a tolerable workwoman in the
general acceptation of the term, when, on assuming the former of these
characters, she was compelled to rely on her own resources.
The Author must here acknowledge her obligations to that valuable
little work “Cottage Comforts;” also to the “Teacher’s Assistant
in Needlework” and “Knitting,” and a few others, for some useful
suggestions.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON NEEDLEWORK.
Comprising Plain Stitches, Fancy Stitches, Marking,
Darning, Braiding, &c. General Rules for completing Work.
CHAPTER II. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON PURCHASING GOODS.
CHAPTER III. GENERAL RULES FOR CUTTING OUT.
CHAPTER IV. THE WORK-BOX.
CHAPTER V. ON BABY LINEN, WITH SCALES FOR THE CLOTHES OF
OLDER CHILDREN. Caps; Cockades; Rosettes; Infants’
Open Shirts; first Flannel Gowns; Flannel Bands;
Night-gowns; Pinafores; Petticoats; Robes; Receiver;
Shawl; Flannel Cloak; Child’s Bib; Infants’ Pelisses and
Cloaks; Infant’s Hood; Cots; Cribs; Cradles; Basket;
Pincushion.
CHAPTER VI. LINEN FOR MEN, WOMEN, GIRLS, AND BOYS.
Women’s Shifts; Child’s Shifts; Child’s Trowsers;
Girl’s Trowsers; Trowsers for Girls or Boys; Leglets;
Women’s Drawers; Turkish Trowsers; Men’s Drawers;
Women’s Night Jackets; Night-gowns; Flannel Waistcoat
for a Lady; Boys’ Waistcoats; Man’s Under Waistcoat;
Boy’s Upper Waistcoat; Child’s Night Vest; Child’s
Day Vest; Bathing Gown; Women’s Night-caps; Caps for
poor Women; Caps for Servants; Caps for School girls;
Bathing Cap; Dressing-gowns for Men; Dressing-gowns for
Women; Cloak Dressing-gown; Dressing Jacket; Flannel
Petticoats; Pockets; Frills; Cuffs; Tidy Cuffs; Mourning
Cuffs; Aprons; Dress Aprons; Working Aprons; Apron
Pockets; Grocers’ Aprons; Cooking Apron; Pantry Apron;
Gentleman’s Working Apron; Neck-tie; Scarfs; Women’s
Stays; Nursing Stays; Men’s Stays or Belts; Children’s
Stays; Bustles; Veils; Long and short Sleeves for
Children; Long and short Sleeves for grown-up Persons;
Old Woman’s Sleeve; Boy’s Sleeve; Shoulder-pieces;
Capes; Collars; Riding Collar; Habit-shirt; Chemisette;
School-girl’s Tippet; Petticoats; Nursing Petticoat;
Gowns; General observations on Colours; On the making
up and choosing Dresses; General observations on
cutting out Dresses; Bodies of Gowns—high, low, full,
plain; On trimming Bodies of low Dresses; Nursing
Gowns; Children’s Frocks and Tunics; Boy’s Surtout;
Child’s Pelisses; Day-caps; Morning Caps; Bonnet Caps;
Cap for an Old Lady; Caps for the Society of Friends;
Lappets; Widow’s Cap; Velvet or Silk Cap; Care of the
Lady’s Wardrobe; To fold up Dresses and Frocks; General
observations on Packing; Care of the Gentleman’s
Wardrobe; Mourning and Dress at Funerals; Pinafores
and Saccarines for Children; Housemaid’s Pinafore;
School-girl’s Pinafore; Surgeon’s Pinafore; Waggoner’s
Smock-frock; Shirts for the Labouring Classes;
Gentlemen’s Shirts; Gentlemen’s Shirt Fronts; Boys’
Shirt Fronts; Gentlemen’s Stocks; Clergyman’s Dress; The
Cassock; The Gown; The Surplice; The Sash; Scarf; Bands;
The Clerk’s Gown; Children’s Bonnets; Hats and Caps for
Boys; Travelling Caps; Lady’s Riding Cap; Working Man’s
Cap; Women’s Bonnets; Old Women’s Bonnets; Bonnet for a
Member of the Society of Friends; School-girl’s Bonnet;
Oiled Silk Hood; Calèche; Women’s Cloaks; Mantelet or
short Cloak; Carriage Cloak; Old Woman’s Cloak and
Hood; School-girl’s Cape or Cloak; Boy’s Cloak; Shawls;
Shawl for a Member of the Society of Friends; Quilted
Shawl; Mourning Shawl; Spencers for Children; Tippet
and Sleeves; Neck Handkerchiefs; Pocket Handkerchiefs;
Bridal Favours; Men’s Slippers; Ladies’ Slippers;
Travelling or Over-shoes; Half-slippers; Carriage
Slippers; Babies’ Shoes; On covering Shoes; Gloves; On
Down and Fur; Muffs; Boas; Tippets; Operas or Ruffs; To
clean Fur and Down; To preserve Fur.
CHAPTER VII. HOUSE LINEN. Division into Bed-room, Table
and Pantry, Housemaid’s, Kitchen, and Stable Linen;
Number required, kinds to be chosen, size and price of
each; Sheets; Pillow-slips; Towels; Toilette or Dressing
Table Covers; Table Cloths; Dinner Napkins; Doyleys;
Knife-box Cloths; Pantry Knife Cloths; Pantry Dresser
Cloths; Plate-basket Cloth; Pantry China Cloths; Pantry
Glass Cloths; Pantry Lamp Cloths; Waiting Gloves;
Housemaid’s Dusters; Scouring Flannels; Paint Cloths;
Chamber Bottle Cloths; Chamber Bucket Cloths; Clothes
Bags; Kitchen Table Cloths; Dresser Cloths; Roller
Cloths; Dusters; Tea Cloths; Jelly Bags; Ham Bags;
Cheese Cloths; Stable Linen; General observations on
Linen; On marking House Linen; Linen Press; Washing
Books—Nursery Washing Book; Lady’s Washing Book;
Gentleman’s Washing Book; House Linen Washing Book.
CHAPTER VIII. UPHOLSTERY. General observations;
Bedsteads—all their parts and the different kinds;
Hints on putting up Beds; On furnishing Beds; General
observations on the choice and arrangement of Drapery
for Beds; On the Heads and Tops of Beds; Footboards;
The Half-tester; French Pole Bed; French Arrow Bed;
French Bed; French Block Bed; French Canopy Bed; Turn-up
Bed; Press Bed; Stump Bed; Trestle Bed; Hanging Bed or
Cot; Mattresses; Beds; Bolsters and Pillows; Blankets;
Counterpanes; Watch-Pockets; Carpets; List of different
kinds; General observations on making up Carpets; Window
Curtains—Various kinds of Drapery for Windows; Curtains
for a Passage or Church Window; Muslin Curtains; Half
Curtains; Full Curtains; Rod Curtain; Window Blinds;
Chair, Sofa, and other Covers; Divan; Footstools and
Hassocks; Church Basses; Church Seats; Table Covers;
Screens.
CHAPTER IX. COVERS, CASES, &C. Night-gown Bag;
Travelling Dressing-case or Tidy; Glove Cases; Pocket
Handkerchief Case; Shoe or Brush and Comb Bags; Shoe
Bags; Mat; Boot Bags; Nursery Bag; Book Covers; Trunk
Cover; Knife or Fork Case; Card Case; Candlestick Case;
Nosegay Case; Wool Case; Housewife; Yard Measure;
Pincushions; Bags; Needle Case; Work Basket; Travelling
Bag; School-girl’s Badge; Carriage Case or Portfolio;
Travelling Portfolio; Seaman’s or Traveller’s Case;
Gentleman’s Travelling Dressing-Case; Watch Pocket;
Invalid’s Chair.
CHAPTER X. RECEIPTS. Marking Ink; Red Marking Ink; To
remove Marking Ink; Salts of Lemon; To take out Ink
without Salts of Lemon; Bleaching Liquid; To remove
Stains; Scouring Drops; To remove Grease; To take out
Mildew; To take out Iron-moulds; To remove Paint Spots;
To clean Silks and Cottons; To restore scorched Linen;
To clean Calico Furniture; To clean Chintz; To scour
Carpets; To wash Silk Handkerchiefs; To wash coloured
Muslins, &c.; To restore the colour of Linen; To wash
China-crape Scarfs, &c.; To wash Blonde; To wash Lace;
To wash Kid Gloves; To clean white Satin Shoes; To keep
Blonde, &c.; To dye Gloves like York-Tan or Limerick; To
dye white Gloves purple; Wash for Leather Gloves; To dye
Cotton a Nankeen colour; To dye the Linings of Furniture
buff or salmon colour; To clean Gold and Silver Lace;
To preserve Linen from Moths; To preserve Woollens and
Blankets; To preserve Furs and Woollens from Moths; To
varnish old Straw or Chip Hats; To raise the surface of
Velvet; To make Starch; To make Court Plaister; Lavender
Water; Eau de Cologne; Powder for Infants’ Dust Bags;
Pot-Pourri; Scent Bags; To make Shoes Waterproof;
Remedy against Fleas; Remedy against Bugs; To destroy
Bugs; To destroy Flies; General observations on Washing
and Ironing; List of Articles required in a Laundry;
Washing; Hanging to dry; Mangling and Ironing; Clear
Starching; Gaufiering.
CHAPTER XI. KNITTING. Knitting Pins; Materials for
Knitting; Knit Stitches; Casting on Stitches; Common
Knitting Stitch; Dutch common Knitting; Turn or Seam
Stitch; Widening; Narrowing; Slipping a Stitch;
Finishing off; Welting; Binding; Fancy Stitches; Double
Knitting; Open Hem Stitch; Honey-comb Stitch; French
Stitch; Fantail Stitch; Network Stitch; Open Cross
Stitch; Berlin Wire Stitch; Plain open Stitch; Crowsfoot
Stitch; Chain Stitch; Embossed Hexagon Stitch; Common
Plat; Elastic Rib; Rough-cast or Huckaback Stitch;
Embossed Diamond Stitch; Ladder Stitch; Imitation Double
Knitting; Herring-bone Stitch; Purse Stitch; Lace wave
Stitch; Herring-bone Bag Stitch; Improved Open Stitch;
Shawl Pattern; Cross-stitch Pattern; Curb Stitch;
Ribbed Stitch; Diamond Stitch; Raised French Stitch;
Two coloured Chain Stitch; Rug Stitch; The Nondescript;
A New Stitch; Muffatee Stitch; Knit Fringes; Fringe and
Border; Stockings—General proportions for Stockings;
Scale for Stockings; Socks; Garters; Socks for Babies;
Babies’ Socks or Slippers; Child’s long Sock; Child’s
first Stocking; The Ribbed Boot; The Over shoe; The
Snow-heel; Little Night Boots; Socks for Invalids;
Knit Boots; Scale for Knit Boots; Night Socks; Knit
Sole; Knee Cap; Knit Gloves; Driving Mits; Mittens for
Babies; Mittens; Armlets; Muffatees; Frill or Ruff;
Scarf; Comforter; Handkerchief; Knit Habit-shirt;
Knit Half-handkerchief; Honey-comb Shawl; A Tippet; A
Purse; A Baby’s Knitted Cap; Baby’s Hood; Gentleman’s
Night-cap; Knitted Bags; Kettle Holders; Knit Open
Braid; Mats; Coverlet; Blankets; Knit Cotton Doyleys.
CHAPTER XII. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON STRAW PLATTING.
Apparatus required; Bleaching Box; Mill for the Plat;
Bonnet Stand; Box Iron; Dyeing Kettle; Straw Splitter;
On preparing Straw; On Bleaching Straw; Dyeing Straw
black; Directions for Platting; Plats; Plats of Three;
Plat of Four; Angular Plat of Four; Plat of Five; Plats
of Six; Plats of Seven; Plats of Eight; Plats of Nine;
Plats of Ten; Plats of Eleven; Plat of Twelve; Plats
of Thirteen; Plat of Fourteen; Plat of Fifteen; Plat
of Sixteen; Hollow Spiral Straw work; The Tuscan Hat;
English Leghorn Plat; Bonnets; Receipts for Stiffening;
On cleaning Bonnets; Turning Bonnets; Hats; Mats; To
make Bobbin Tape.
[Illustration: PLATE 1.
Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6
Fig 7 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 12
Fig 8 Fig 11 Fig 13]
PART FIRST.
CHAPTER I.
A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON NEEDLEWORK.
“But here the needle plies its busy task.”—COWPER.
See that the edges of the work are perfectly even before turning
down, which should be done to a thread, unless the work is not cut
straight-wise.
The needle and cotton should be adapted to the quality of the work,
and when the latter is very fine, rovings taken from it, and used as
thread, are very good for the purpose.
The cotton should be always worked the way it unwinds from the reel,
for this reason, the needle had better be threaded before cutting off
the cotton.
The thimble should be worn on the second finger of the right hand. The
needle, while being threaded, is held in the left hand, and the cotton
in the right.
The scissors, when used, should have the thumb placed in the upper
ring, and the third finger in the lower: they should also be held with
the sharper point uppermost.
When work is very strong, the thread used in making it up should be
strengthened by waxing.
Thread is much more durable than cotton, and it should therefore be
used in working all kinds of linen.
Cottons are better for calico, muslin, &c.
All kinds of threads and cottons, especially when coloured, should be
kept (when not in use) wrapped up in brown paper, as the air is apt to
decay them.
Sewing silks should be wrapped up in soft wash-leather.
Buttons, hooks and eyes, tapes, &c. are all better kept folded up, as
they are apt to tarnish and decay.
Needles, scissors, and all kinds of steel, injure materially when
exposed much to the air, especially at the sea coast.
HEMMING.
Turn down the raw edge twice very evenly, and flatten it with the thumb
and finger, taking care to arrange the corners nicely.
In _beginning_ to hem, point your needle from your chest towards the
right, and after drawing the thread nearly through, stroke the end
under the hem, so as to keep it fast without the assistance of a knot,
which is always untidy. When your needleful is used, cut off the end,
leaving just sufficient to stroke under the hem. In fastening off
effectually, sew several stitches close together, and cut off the
thread closely. Hem from right to left.
SEWING AND FELLING.
The work for sewing is thus prepared: the two selvages are placed
together, or if there are no selvages, the raw edge of one piece is
turned down once, and the edge of the other piece is turned down double
the width, and then half the width is turned back again for the fell.
The two pieces are pinned or basted together, with the parts turned
down face to face, and held firmly between the finger and thumb: the
thread is fastened on by pressing the end carefully into the seam with
the needle, and working over it. The stitches should be just deep
enough to keep the parts strongly together; they should also lie in a
slanting direction, at even distances from each other. When the seam
is sewn, the finger should be placed under it, while the thumb nail
flattens it down. Turn the work on the other side, and fell the seam
just the same as in hemming.
MANTUA-MAKERS’ HEMMING.
This is often used instead of sewing, for bags and sleeves that have
no linings, or skirts of petticoats, &c., and the work is prepared
as follows. Lay the raw edge of one piece a little below that of the
other, then turn the upper edge over the lower, twice, as in hemming,
and fell it securely down.
STITCHING.
Having observed that your work is quite even, turn down a piece to
stitch to, count twelve or fourteen threads from the edge, and draw a
thread to stitch upon. In stitching, take two threads back, and pass
the needle so as to come out from under two before. Join on a fresh
piece of thread by passing the needle between the edges, and bringing
it out where the last stitch left off.
GATHERING.
Observe that the part going to be gathered is cut evenly and straight.
Divide the piece into half, and then into quarters, putting pins at the
divisions as marks; do the same with the piece to which it is to be
gathered, by which means the fulness will be equal.
Begin about twelve or fourteen threads from the top, take up three
threads on your needle and miss four, more or less according to the
fulness required: when a quarter is done, draw the gatherings pretty
closely, and secure the thread by twisting it round a pin; then stroke
the gathers nicely down, one at a time, with a large needle, so as to
make them lie closely and evenly together. Afterwards, untwist the
thread from the pin, and loosen the gathers till you have made the
quarter gathered, correspond with the quarter to which it is to be
sewn. Fasten the thread again firmly to a pin, and sew the gathers
strongly on, one at a time, letting the stitches take a slanting
direction, so as to slip between the gathers.
RUNNING.
The work for running must be prepared by putting the two edges exactly
together, if they are both selvages; but if they are raw edges and
afterwards to be felled, one raw edge must be turned down once, and the
other laid upon it a few threads from the top. It should be run about
six threads below the turned down part. Take three threads and leave
three, and back-stitch occasionally, to keep the work firm.
DOUBLE GATHERING OR PUFFING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 3, 4.
Double gathering or puffing is sometimes used in setting on frills,
and gives a very neat finished appearance; it is done in the following
manner. Gather your frill at the top, in the usual way, and stroke
it strongly down; then gather it again below the first gathering,
according to the depth of the puffing you wish to make, about half an
inch, more or less according to fancy, and sew on the first gathering
to the dressing-gown, frock, or whatever you wish to trim, at a
distance that corresponds with the width of the puffing: the second
gathering is to be sewn to the edge of the dress, so that the part
between the two gatherings forms a full hem. Some people make three
gatherings, and proceed in the same way, forming the two full hems
or puffings. It is usually put on straight, but sometimes in sewing
on, the hem is drawn obliquely, or to one side, which makes a little
variety, and when there are three gatherings, one hem is drawn to
one side, and the other to the opposite one, but this requires much
exactness to do it equally.
GERMAN HEMMING.
German hemming or felling is a neat substitute for sewing, where it is
desirable that the seam should lie very flat; it is sometimes employed
with great advantage for sleeves, and even in the long seams of shifts.
It is quite as strong as the old method of a seam and fell, and looks
better, as it is all done on the wrong side.
Turn down the raw edges of both your pieces of cloth once, (having
them both turned down next you,) and lay one below the other, so that
the smooth top of the lower one does not touch the edge of the upper
one, but is just below it, then hem or fell the lower one to the cloth
against which it is laid, still holding it before you, as you had
prepared it, which is exactly like hemming upside down. When you have
got to the end of your seam, open your sleeve, or whatever you are
doing, and lay the upper fold over the lower edge, which you must then
fell neatly down, and it is completed.
WHIPPING.
The edge for whipping should be cut particularly smooth, and divided
into halves and quarters; the muslin is then rolled very tightly with
the left thumb upon the finger, about ten threads from the edge. The
cotton with which you whip should be very strong and even, and the
needle should be stuck in on the outside, and brought out on the
inside, the needle pointing towards your chest. Take the stitches very
evenly, and so as to draw easily. Draw the whipping up to the width
of the piece to which it is going to be sewn; pin it down, and sew it
firmly, holding the whipping towards you, and letting the stitches lie
athwart, so as to be hidden between the whips. If you stroke whipping
with a large pin or needle, in the same way as in gathering, it adds
much to its neat appearance in setting on, and makes it more easy to do.
BUTTON-HOLES.
PLATE 1. FIG. 5.
Cut the button-hole with a chisel (or the proper scissors made for that
purpose) by a thread, the same size as the width across the button.
In holding the work, let the button-hole lie length-wise along the
forefinger. Begin at the side opposite the thumb farthest from the
point of the finger. Put the needle in through the wrong side of the
hole, and bring it out five threads down on the right. The stitch is
made by putting the needle through the loop of the thread before it is
drawn close. Observe that you keep your work evenly by the thread, and
do not turn the corners too soon; the needle should be put in between
every two threads, else the work will not be thick enough. It has a
neat effect to stitch all round the button-hole.
HERRING-BONING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 7, 8.
This is a stitch generally used for flannels and other woollens, also,
for carpets, druggets, window blinds, &c. when a hem would be thick and
clumsy from being turned down twice; whereas in herring-boning the edge
is turned down only once, and lies flat and more compact.
Turn the work down once evenly, first cutting off any woollen fuzz at
the raw edge which looks untidy, and then beginning to work from the
left of your piece of work towards the right, take a stitch of two or
three threads close under the raw turned-down edge, then put in your
needle half way up the turned-down part, and four or five threads
towards the right hand, and make another stitch of three threads;
bring down the needle, and make another stitch as before under the raw
edge, still working a few threads each time farther to the right hand,
and so on forming a stitch something like the backbone of a fish, and
therefore termed herring-bone. This same stitch done on muslin with
fine cord or braid is very ornamental, and is often used at the tops of
hems or bodies of infants’ robes.
DARNING.
“A stitch in time saves nine.”—POOR RICHARD.
The stocking or work should be held across the first and second
fingers of the left hand. In beginning to darn, the needle should be
held pointed from the chest. The work should be begun a few threads
before the hole, or even the thin place, to give a firmer hold to the
cotton. Take one thread and leave one, alternately till the row is
complete; afterwards, point the needle towards the chest, and take up
the intermediate threads which were left before. The cotton must not be
drawn tight, as it is apt to shrink in washing, therefore a loop should
be left at each end. Continue darning backwards and forwards till the
hole and thin parts are covered, afterwards begin to darn crosswise,
being particularly careful to avoid splitting the threads or pulling
the loops tight.
Some people make a point of running the feet of new stockings all
over, which is very advisable for men and boys who wear boots, as it
preserves them much longer.
There are a variety of stitches in darning, some of which have a very
neat appearance, among others the following:-
Take up 1 thread and leave 2
Take up 2 2
Take up 1 3
Take up 2 4
Take up 3 3
Table linen, when darned, looks neater if the work is done in some
pattern; thus, a diamond or circle looks more tidy than an irregular
patch of darning.
ON MENDING A CRACK.
In taking up a crack in a stocking, fasten the thread firmly on, and
then take the two half loops which are next each other on one side of
the crack, upon the needle, and having drawn the thread through them,
do the same on the other side, making the half loop, which was last
taken up on either side, the first of the next stitch.
ON TAKING UP A LADDER.
A ladder is caused by the fall or dropping of a stitch, which it
is necessary to pick up as soon as possible, by putting the needle
into the loop that has fallen, and drawing the bar immediately above
through the loop, thus the bar becomes a loop in its turn, and the
next bar above is in like manner draw through it, till all are taken
up, when the last loop is well secured and darned over.
ON MAKING BUTTONS.
PLATE 1. FIG. 6.
Cover your piece of wire with a square piece of calico, which you must
double over the corners, and sew firmly in the middle; afterwards
stitch the button round close to the wire, or else work over the wire
the button-hole stitch, and in the centre, work a little regular star
to set it off.
ON MAKING TUCKS.
Tucks should be very even; for this purpose, have a bit of card on
which is notched the depth of each tuck, and also the space between
them. Tucks should be run firmly in small regular stitches, constantly
taking a back-stitch as you go on.
MARKING.
In marking, two threads are generally taken each way. There are three
ways in which the needle is passed before the stitch is perfect. One
is aslant from you towards the right hand; the second is straight
downwards towards you; the third is across or aslant from you towards
the left hand, taking care to bring out the needle at that corner of
the stitch nearest the one you are going to make. The generality of
markers make the first stitch aslant twice over, to make it clearer
before proceeding onwards; thus, in Plate 1, Fig. 2, the thread, being
brought out at A, passes across to B, and out again at A; again, across
to B, and out at C; then, aslant to D, and out again at B, ready to
proceed to the next stitch. Where there are two or three letters to
be marked, the thread should be neatly fastened off at the end of
each letter and not carried on from one to the other. Two or four
threads are left between the letters, according to the quality of the
article to be marked. In linen, eight threads are generally left. In
gentlemen’s families, house linen is either marked with the gentleman’s
initials, or else with those of the lady’s christian name added to
the gentleman’s full initials, his christian name coming first: thus,
supposing Edward Montagu’s wife is named Louisa, the initials would be
E. L. M., afterwards the name of the cloth and the number are marked
thus:
E. L. M.
G. C.
8
..37.
signifying, Edward Louisa Montagu, Glass Cloth, Number 8, 1837.
There are many pretty marking patterns for samplers, flat canvass
pincushions, or needle-books. In noblemen’s families, the marks are
surmounted by coronets. There are also two other kinds of marking;
the one is the same stitch as that above described, but differing in
the form of the letters, which are in writing or Italian characters;
this may best be done by copying written letters accurately: the other
kind of marking is, by making the letters perfectly straight, as in
printing, and instead of the marking stitch, working them in small
oylet holes.
In Plate 1, Fig. 1, the sampler drawn gives an accurate idea of the
canvass, and the shape of all the letters in the different alphabets.
The first alphabet is that in most general use; the second contains the
small letters; the third is a correct representation of the Italian
characters, which are much used for marking pocket handkerchiefs and
other fine articles of dress; the fourth and last is quite a fancy
stitch, and rarely employed. The oylet-holes are formed by working
in small stitches round each square, about four stitches in the four
corners, and four intermediate stitches between, are necessary to form
each oylet hole.
PIPING
Is a neat mode of finishing capes, sleeves at the wrist, waistbands,
tops of bodies, &c., and is sewn on in the following way.
Cut crosswise strips of silk, (or whatever other material you are
piping with,) sufficiently wide to admit well the cord, run these
strips neatly together, to make them of a proper length for the piping
you want. Some people run the silk on the cord first, before sewing
it to the piece of work; others, however, merely lay the cord neatly
inside the silk, which is then placed on the edge of the work to which
it is piped, so that the two raw edges of the strip of silk enclosing
the cord should lie on the raw edge of the work; the three thicknesses
are then all firmly run together, the stitches being made just below
the cord. When it is sewn on, the raw edges are pressed inwards, so as
to make the cord set at the edge. The lining is then neatly put in,
which covers these edges and makes all look tidy.
PLAITING.
Care should be taken that the plaits lie evenly one against another,
and that they are of the same size, especially in frills, sleeves, &c.
In double plaiting, the plaits lie both ways, and look very handsome
and full in frills: it requires great care to do them evenly, without
which they will not look well.
ON LINING SLEEVES, BAGS, &c.
After cutting out the lining exactly the same size as the sleeve, fold
it very carefully, so as to make the raw edges lie exactly one on the
other; do the same with the sleeve, taking care to fold the wrong side
outwards. Place the lining on the sleeve and pin them evenly together;
after which, run all the four thicknesses strongly down the seam. Put
your hand in the sleeve, and turn it inside out, drawing the lining
inside; the seam is then quite neat, both inside and outside, as the
stitches lie between the lining and the outer silk. The same should be
done with bags, and any other thing that will admit of it.
ON BRAIDING.
This work can scarcely come under the head of plain work, still, as
children’s dresses are so much ornamented with it, a few observations
may be useful. The very fine flat braid should be used, as it looks
so much neater than that which is thick; it is sold in knots. Silk
braids look well on silk, merino, or muslin; but cotton is the best for
jean, prints, or stuffs. The pattern should be drawn on silver paper,
which is tacked on the piece of work, and the braid worked on it with
the same coloured sewing silk, as thread washes white. To sew on silk
braid, you should use the silk drawn out of the braid, as it is finer
and more even, and will match the colour better than any other you
can procure: cut off, therefore, a bit the length of a needleful, to
keep for the purpose of unroving. If you want to take the pattern of
a piece of work upon paper, place some letter paper on the work, and
while holding it firmly, rub the paper well with half a nutmeg, which
will mark the pattern correctly, and sufficiently distinct on the paper
to admit of its being inked afterwards. Two shades of braid sewn close
together have a pretty effect.
BIASSING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 9.
In biassing, the first part of the stitch resembles gathering, and
after stroking in down with a large needle or pin, you lay, upon the
right side of the gathers, a thread very much thicker than that you
are using in your needle; you then sew over this thread, taking hold,
at the same time, of the gathering thread, and pointing your needle to
your chest; you must be very careful to put your needle between every
gather: the thick thread, thus worked upon the gathering, has a very
neat effect, and adds much to its strength; two or three rows of it,
at short distances from each other, look very well: it is particularly
suitable for the shoulders and sleeves of dresses, and for children’s
saccarines, pelisses, &c. It is a good plan to bias with sewing and
netting silk, in preference to thread, as it is much stronger.
GAGING.
This is very suitable for the fronts of children’s dresses, and the
tops of the cuffs of sleeves; it is done as follows. Take up the
stitches at regular intervals of half an inch, for the first row. For
the second, continue doing the same; letting the needle, however, take
up the intermediate parts. The third row resembles the first, and
so on. For the purpose of securing the gathers firmly, work them as
follows, with very strong netting silk. Take on your needle the two
first gathers, and the thread on which they run, pulling your thread
firmly through. For the next stitch, again take two gathers and the
thread upon your needle, letting the first of them be the last gather
that was taken up at the former stitch, so that the work proceeds but
by one gather at a time. Observe to draw the netting silk as tightly as
possible, so as to make the stitches lie very closely together, in a
slanting position.
HONEY-COMBING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 10, 11.
This sort of work is much used for the inside of the tops of
work-boxes, and sometimes for the tops and heads of beds; it is usually
done with silk, satin, or velvet, for the former; and highly-glazed
chintz or calico, for the latter. Crease your material in even folds,
taking care to have them very regular, and of a proper depth to suit
the purpose for which it is intended; with a strong thread, tack the
folds together with long stitches, so as to make them lie compactly
one against another; then, with sewing silk of the proper colour,
stitch firmly together, at moderate equal distances, the first and
second folds: afterwards, stitch the second and third folds, at
equal distances, taking your stitches in the intermediate intervals
(see Plate 1, Fig. 10 and 11). The third and fourth folds are only
repetitions of the first and second, and by continuing your work in
this way, the stitches of the alternate rows will accord with each
other. When the piece is completed, and the tacking-thread drawn
out, pull your work open, and it will form puffings, in the shape of
diamonds, on the right side.
BINDING.
Flannel is generally bound with sarsenet ribbon, or a kind of thin tape
called flannel binding. This is generally put on so as merely to shew
a little way over the edge on the right side, and should be neatly and
firmly hemmed down. On the other side, run the binding down with small
neat stitches, so as to look very tidy on the right side. Some people,
in binding flannel, turn half on the other side of the edge, but this
is not nearly so neat in appearance.
QUILTING.
PLATE 1. FIG. 12, 13.
Is generally employed for coverlets, silk shoes, cushions, linings of
work-baskets and boxes; also, for babies’ bonnets, hoods, &c. &c.; and
is well adapted to those purposes for which warmth and softness are
essential.
It is done in the following manner. Lay a piece of flannel, demet, or
other soft substance, between the satin (or other material forming
the outside) and the lining of whatever you are going to make. Run it
firmly together, taking care that the stitches go through, not only the
satin, but the flannel and lining. The running is done in diamonds,
squares, octagons, or any other pattern with very small stitches, in
silk the same colour as the material. Coverlets are often quilted with
patterns of birds, fishes, stars, &c. &c.
Another kind of quilting, which looks very neat, is done as follows.
Baste the piece of work in diamonds, with very long stitches of
thread, and then, with your needle, work a little star at each of the
intersections or points of the diamonds, putting in your needle between
the material and the lining, when the thread is ready to be carried
from one star to another, to conceal the stitches.
MAKING ROULEAUS.
These are used for trimming dresses, capes, &c., and are made of satin,
silk, or velvet, in the following manner. Cut pieces of the material
crosswise, about one or more nails, and join a sufficient number of
them to form the length required; after which double the strip in two,
on the wrong side, and run along near the edge. When you have got to
the end, see that your needle is fastened firmly, with strong thread
to it, and turn your needle inside the roll, running it through as you
would a bodkin, and, on pulling it gently out, it will pull the rouleau
inside out, and make it look neat; after which, draw sufficient wool
through the rouleau to fill it.
CORONATION BRAID.
This kind of braid is bought in knots, and resembles Fig. 10, Plate 1.
In putting it on frocks, it may be sewn in various patterns of leaves,
&c.: it looks pretty, and both wears and washes well. (See Plate 5,
Fig. 28, 29.)
CORD SEWN ON.
This is often put on infants’ frock bodies, it looks neat and washes
remarkably well. It is sewn on in waves, diamonds, vandykes, or any
other pattern. The thread for sewing it on should be fine, and the
stitches very small.
CHAIN STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 21.
It is a kind of ornamental work, which, as it is often used in frock
bodies for children, will be here explained; together with some other
fancy stitches, although they do not strictly come under the head of
plain work.
Chain stitch is done as follows. Thread your needle with fine round
union cord, braid, or bobbin; tie a knot at the end of it, and draw the
cord through to the right side of your work. Let your cord hang loosely
in front, while you stick in your needle, as in the Plate, and bring
it out below, inclining it a little to the left, passing your needle
over your thread as you draw it out, so as to form a loop. Draw out
the needle, taking care not to pull the stitch tightly, and repeat the
same, putting the needle in a little higher, and to the right hand of
the place where it was last drawn out: thus each new loop begins within
the lower part of the preceding one, and you produce the effect of a
chain.
FANCY CHAIN STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 22.
This is a very pretty stitch for ornamenting babies’ dresses, and
especially their hats, and should be worked in netting silk, silk
cord, or braid. The stitch resembles that of the common chain stitch
above mentioned, excepting that very little is taken up on the needle
at a time, and the stitches made far apart. The stitch may be varied
according to whether the needle slants little or much. If it is made to
lie quite horizontally before the work, it becomes button-hole stitch
at once.
CHAIN STITCH ON GATHERS.
This has a remarkably neat effect, and if done with coloured worsted
upon Holland dresses, when biassed or gaged, it will wash and wear
well. Take up two gathers at a time for each stitch, always taking one
old, and one new gather on the needle at a time.
FANCY BOBBIN EDGING.
PLATE 5. FIG. 18.
This is pretty for the edges of frocks and robings, and is a very
simple stitch, which wears well. After hemming the edge, tie a knot at
the end of your bobbin, and draw it through to the right side of the
work, just below the hem. Carry the bobbin over the hem, by sticking
in your needle at the wrong side, bringing it through; after which, on
drawing the loop to the proper size, pass your bobbin through it, and
begin the next stitch, and so on, forming a succession of loops.
FANCY HERRING-BONING.
PLATE 5. FIG. 23.
This stitch resembles that of the common herring-bone, except that it
is worked perpendicularly instead of from left to right, and the thread
is brought round behind the needle, as represented in Plate 5, which
gives a greater finish to the stitch.
DOUBLE HERRING-BONING.
PLATE 5. FIG. 27.
This pattern is too intricate to describe, farther than by saying it is
a kind of double herring-bone on each side. The Plate gives a tolerably
accurate idea of the stitch. As great care is requisite to keep the
pattern even, it is better to run a tacking-thread, as a guide, down
the middle of it.
THE ANGULAR STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 24.
This is a neat ornament for capes, cuffs, and the skirts of children’s
pelisses, and resembles the button-hole stitch, but is carried
angularly from right to left, to form the pattern. Care should be taken
to make the pattern of equal width and very even and straight, as much
of its merit depends upon its regularity.
THE SERPENTINE STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 25.
This is a peculiarly pretty work, and much employed for children’s
dresses. It is worked with the hand, and sewn on to the material when
made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at one end, and pass
the other end through the loop towards the front, to form another loop
to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin first through the loop
on one side, and then through the loop on the other, directing the
cord so as to pass from the outer side of the work invariably towards
the inner, or that part next the work. The Plate will give a clearer
representation of this than can be easily done by words.
THE HORSE-SHOE STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 20.
This stitch is worked from left to right, as seen in the Plate, and is
pretty when worked near to the edge of robings, hems, &c. The Plate
gives so clear a representation of the way to hold the needle and
thread, that no explanation is necessary. It is done with thick loosely
twisted cotton or bobbin.
FANCY BUTTON-HOLE STITCH.
PLATE 5. FIG. 19.
This is very pretty for the fronts of bodies, also for the bands
and shoulder-bits, and above the broad hems or tucks of frocks. It
resembles a very wide button-hole stitch. It washes and wears well.
CORAL PATTERN.
PLATE 5. FIG. 26.
This pattern is particularly suitable for the tops of broad hems, or
the waistbands of children’s frocks. It requires great accuracy in
the working; and if attempted by an inexperienced person, it would be
desirable to run lines, in long stitches, to determine the middle and
outer sides of the pattern. It can be best understood by reference to
the Plate, merely remarking that the stitch is begun on the left hand,
and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the
needle towards the centre.
GENERAL RULES FOR COMPLETING WORK.
“The threaded steel
Flies swiftly, and unfelt the task proceeds.”
—COWPER.
In making up dresses, all openings of pocket holes, of sleeves near
the wrist, &c. &c., should be very firmly fastened off, as they are
apt to tear. There are two or three modes of making them strong: one
is by working round the pail in button-hole stitch, and also by making
a bar from one side to the other, by passing the needle backwards and
forwards several times, working the button-hole stitch upon the bar; a
second is by sewing a piece of strong tape upon the hem, about an inch
on each side from the bottom; and a third way, which can only be done
when the pocket-hole is in a seam, is by making one side lap over the
other considerably, by which means the slit is not only strengthened,
but it does not gape open, which always has an untidy appearance. To
prevent dresses from opening at the slit below the band, it is a good
plan to extend the gathers, on one side, an inch beyond the band, by
joining a piece of strong tape to the end of it, and sewing the gathers
neatly upon it. This piece of tape must be contrived so as to hook or
button on to the band on the other side, so as to lap over the slit,
and thus prevent its opening.
In fastening on tapes, sew firmly in close small stitches round the
three outer sides, and back-stitch across the fourth.
In sewing on buttons, it is best to put the needle in and out, so as
to form a cross-stitch in the centre over and over again, till firmly
fastened.
In sewing on the long tapes to the bands of petticoats, gowns, &c., it
is an excellent plan to make a large button-hole near one end, through
which the tape of the other end is passed, before brought to tie in
front.
The gussets of sleeves, &c., are put in as follows. Take the piece
intended for the gusset and prove, by folding it crosswise, that it is
a perfect square; after which, it is the best and most durable plan
to hem it all round: next hem the two ends of the sleeve, and fix on
the gusset by sewing one end of the sleeve firmly to one side of the
gusset, and the other end of the sleeve to the next side of the gusset,
immediately round the corner. The easiest mode of ascertaining which
sides of the gusset are joined to the sleeve, is by folding the gusset
corner-wise, and the two sides that lie one above the other are sewn
to the two ends of the sleeve, and the other two sides, lying also one
above the other, form that part of the sleeve fastened to the body of
the dress. Sometimes the gusset is cut out much smaller than the ends
of the sleeve, especially for baby clothes, in which case the sides of
the gusset forming the part fastened to the skirt, ought to be still
placed so as to continue in a line with those sides of the sleeve sewn
on to the skirt. That part of the ends of the sleeve which is longer
than the gusset should be sewn together.
Some sleeves are cut with the gussets in one length, so that it is
only necessary to turn up the one corner of the piece, like a half
handkerchief, so as to make it lie upon the side of the strip which is
folded just in half, and when the second end is sewn to that part which
meets it, the sleeve is formed, and only requires hemming at the bottom
to complete it, before putting it in.
In setting a long sleeve, such as a shirt or night-gown sleeve, into a
wristband, let the slit be sufficiently long to admit of the wristband
being laid open and easily ironed. The gathers at the top of the sleeve
should be set into a space exactly the same as the wristband, to make
it lie flat also. These little attentions are a great assistance to the
washerwoman.