I began my packing seriously this time, as W.'s mind was quite made up.

He had thought the matter well over, and had a final talk with

Freycinet, who would have liked to keep both W. and Léon Say, but it

wasn't easy to manage the new element that Freycinet brought with him.

The new members were much more advanced in their opinions. W. couldn't

have worked with them, and they certainly didn't want to work with him.

The autumn session came to a turbulent end on the 26th of December, and

the next day the papers announced that the ministers had given their

resignations to the President, who had accepted them and had charged M.

de Freycinet to form a cabinet. We dined with mother on Christmas day, a

family party, with the addition of Comte de P. and one or two stray

Americans who were at hotels and were of course delighted not to dine on

Christmas day at a table d'hôte or café. W. was rather tired; the

constant talking and seeing so many people of all kinds was very

fatiguing, for, as long as his resignation was not official, announced

in the _Journal Officiel_, he was still Minister of Foreign Affairs.

One of the last days, when they were hoping to come to an agreement, he

was obliged to come home early to receive the mission from Morocco. I

saw them arrive; they were a fine set of men, tall, powerfully built,

their skin a red-brown, not black, entirely dressed in white from

turbans to sandals. None of them spoke any French--all the conversation

took place through an interpreter. Notwithstanding our worries, we had a

very pleasant evening and W. was very cheerful--looking forward to our

Italian trip with quite as much pleasure as I did.

W. made over the ministry to Freycinet on Monday, the 28th, the

transmission des pouvoirs. Freycinet was very nice and friendly,

regretted that he and W. were no longer colleagues. He thought his

ministry was strong and was confident he would manage the Chamber. W.

told him he could settle himself as soon as he liked at the Quai

d'Orsay, as we should go at once, and would sleep at our house on

Wednesday night. Freycinet said Madame de Freycinet (whom I knew well

and liked very much) would come and see me on Wednesday, and would like

to go over the house with me. I was rather taken aback when W. told me

we must sleep in our own house on Wednesday night. The actual packing

was not very troublesome, as I had not brought many of my own things

from the rue Dumont d'Urville. There was scarcely a van-load of small

furniture and boxes, but the getting together of all the small things

was a bore,--books, bibelots, music, cards, and notes (these in

quantities, lettres de condoléance, which had to be carefully sorted as

they had all to be answered). The hotel of the Quai d'Orsay was crowded

with people those last two days, all W.'s friends coming to express

their regrets at his departure, some very sincerely sorry to see him go,

as his name and character certainly inspired confidence abroad--and some

delighted that he was no longer a member of such an advanced

cabinet--(some said "de cet infect gouvernement"), where he was obliged

by his mere presence to sanction many things he didn't approve of. He

and Freycinet had a long talk on Wednesday, as W. naturally wanted to be

sure that some provision would be made for his chef de cabinet and

secretaries. Each incoming minister brings his own staff with him.

Freycinet offered W. the London Embassy, but he wouldn't take it, had

had enough of public life for the present. I didn't want it either, I

had never lived much in England, had not many friends there, and was

counting the days until we could get off to Rome. There was one funny

result of W. having declined the London Embassy. Admiral Pothnau, whom

W. had named there, and who was very much liked, came to see him one day

and made a great scene because Freycinet had offered him the London

Embassy. W. said he didn't understand why he made a scene, as he had

refused it. "But it should never have been offered to you over my head."

"Perhaps, but that is not my fault. I didn't ask for it--and don't want

it. If you think you have been treated badly, you should speak to

Freycinet." However, the admiral was very much put out, and was very

cool with us both for a long time. I suppose his idea was that being

recalled would mean that he had not done well in London, which was quite

a mistake, as he was very much liked there.

We dined alone that last night at the ministry, and sat some time in the

window, looking at the crowds of people amusing themselves on the Seine,

and wondering if we should ever see the Quai d'Orsay again. After all,

we had had two very happy interesting years there--and memories that

would last a lifetime.--Some of the last experiences of the month of

December had been rather disillusioning, but I suppose one must not

bring any sentiment into politics. In the world it is always a case of

donnant--donnant--and--when one is no longer in a position to give a

great deal--people naturally turn to the rising man. Comte de P., chef

de cabinet, came in late as usual, to have a last talk. He too had been

busy, as he had a small apartment and stables in the hotel of the

ministry, and was also very anxious to get away. He told us all the

young men of the cabinet were very sorry to see W. go--at first they had

found him a little cold and reserved--but a two years' experience had

shown them that, if he were not expansive, he was perfectly just, and

always did what he said he would.

The next day Madame de Freycinet came to see me, and we went over the

house. She didn't care about the living-rooms, as they never lived at

the Quai d'Orsay, remained in their own hotel near the Bois de Boulogne.

Freycinet came every day to the ministry, and she merely on reception

days--or when there was a party. Just as she was going, Madame de

Zuylen, wife of the Dutch minister, a great friend of mine, came in. She

told me she had great difficulty in getting up, as I had forbidden my

door, but my faithful Gérard (I think I missed him as much as anything

else at first) knowing we were friends, thought Madame would like to see

her. She paid me quite a long visit,--I even gave her some tea off

government plate and china,--all mine had been already sent to my own

house. We sat talking for some time. She had heard that W. had refused

the London Embassy, was afraid it was a mistake, and that the winter in

Paris would be a difficult one for him--he would certainly be in

opposition to the Government on all sorts of questions--and if he

remained in Paris he would naturally go to the Senate and vote. I quite

agreed that he couldn't suddenly detach himself from all political

discussions--must take part in them and must vote. The policy of

abstention has always seemed to me the weakest possible line in

politics. If a man, for some reason or another, hasn't the courage of

his opinions, he mustn't take any position where that opinion would

carry weight. I told her we were going to Italy as soon as we could get

off after the holidays.

While we were talking, a message came up to say that the young men of

the cabinet were all coming up to say good-bye to me. I had seen the

directors earlier in the day, so Madame de Zuylen took her leave,

promising to come to my Christmas tree in the rue Dumont d'Urville. The

young men seemed sorry to say good-bye--I was, too. I had seen a great

deal of them and always found them ready and anxious to help me in

every way. The Comte de Lasteyrie, who was a great friend of ours as

well as a secretary, went about a great deal with us. W. called upon him

very often for all sorts of things, knowing he could trust him

absolutely. He told one of my friends that one of his principal

functions was to accompany Madame Waddington to all the charity sales,

carrying a package of women's chemises under his arm. It was quite true

that I often bought "poor clothes" at the sales. The objects exposed in

the way of screens, pincushions, table-covers, and, in the spring, hats

made by some of the ladies, were so appalling that I was glad to have

poor clothes to fall back upon, but I don't remember his ever carrying

my purchases home with me.

They were much amused when suddenly Francis burst into the room, having

escaped a moment from his Nonnon, who was busy with her last packing,

his little face flushed and quivering with anger because his toys had

been packed and he was to be taken away from the big house. He kicked

and screamed like a little mad thing, until his nurse came to the

rescue. I made a last turn in the rooms to see that all trace of my

occupation had vanished. Francis, half pacified, was seated on the

billiard-table, an old grey-haired huissier, who was always on duty

up-stairs, taking care of him. The huissiers and house servants were all

assembled in the hall, and the old Pierson, who had been there for

years, was the spokesman, and hoped respectfully that Madame "would soon

come back...." W. didn't come with us, as he still had people to see and

only got home in time for a late dinner.

We dined that night and for many nights afterward with our uncle

Lutteroth (who had a charming hotel filled with pictures and bibelots

and pretty things) just across the street, as it was some little time

before our kitchen and household got into working order again. The first

few days were, of course, very tiring and uncomfortable--the house

seemed so small after the big rooms at the Quai d'Orsay. I didn't

attempt to do anything with the salons, as we were going away so

soon--carpets and curtains had to be arranged to keep the cold out, but

the big boxes remained in the carriage house--not unpacked. We had a

procession of visitors all day--and tried to make W.'s library

possible--comfortable it wasn't, as there were packages of books and

papers and boxes everywhere.

I had a good many visits and flowers on New Year's day--which was an

agreeable surprise--Lord Lyons, Orloff, the Sibberns, Comte de Ségur,

M. Alfred André, and others. André, an old friend of W.'s, a very

conservative Protestant banker, was very blue about affairs. André was

the type of the modern French Protestant. They are almost a separate

class in France--are very earnest, religious, honourable, narrow-minded

people. They give a great deal in charity and good works of all kinds.

In Paris the Protestant coterie is very rich. They associate with all

the Catholics, as many of them entertain a great deal, but they live

among themselves and never intermarry. I hardly know a case where a

French Protestant has married a Catholic. I suppose it is a remnant of

their old Huguenot blood, and the memories of all their forefathers

suffered for their religion, which makes them so intolerant. The

ambassadors had paid their usual official visit to the Elysée--said

Grévy was very smiling and amiable, didn't seem at all preoccupied. We

had a family dinner at my uncle's on New Year's night, and all the

family with wonderful unanimity said the best wish they could make for

W. was that 1880 would see him out of politics and leading an

independent if less interesting life.

An interesting life it certainly was, hearing so many questions

discussed, seeing all sorts of people of all nationalities and living as

it were behind the scenes. The Chamber of Deputies in itself was a

study, with its astounding changes of opinion, with no apparent cause.

One never knew in the morning what the afternoon's session would bring,

for as soon as the Republican party felt themselves firmly established,

they began to quarrel among themselves. I went back to the ministry one

afternoon to pay a formal visit to Madame de Freycinet on her reception

day. I had rather put it off, thinking that the sight of the well-known

rooms and faces would be disagreeable to me and make me regret, perhaps,

the past, but I felt already that all that old life was over--one adapts

one's self so quickly to different surroundings. It did seem funny to be

announced by my own special huissier, Gérard, and to find myself sitting

in the green drawing-room with all the palms and flowers arranged just

as they always were for me, and a semicircle of diplomats saying exactly

the same things to Madame de Freycinet that they had said to me a few

days before, but I fancy that always happens in these days of democracy

and equalising education, and that under certain circumstances, we all

say and do exactly the same thing. I had quite a talk with Sibbern, the

Swedish minister, who was very friendly and sympathetic, not only at our

leaving the Foreign Office, but at the extreme discomfort of moving in

such frightfully cold weather. He was wrapped in furs, as if he were

going to the North Pole. However, I assured him we were quite warm and

comfortable, gradually settling down into our old ways, and I was

already looking back on my two years at the Quai d'Orsay as an agreeable

episode in my life. I had quite a talk too with the Portuguese minister,

Mendes Leal. He was an interesting man, a poet and a dreamer, saw more,

I fancy, of the literary world of Paris than the political. Blowitz was

there, of course--was always everywhere in moments of crisis, talking a

great deal, and letting it be understood that he had pulled a great many

wires all those last weeks. He too regretted that W. had not taken the

London Embassy, assured me that it would have been a very agreeable

appointment in England--was surprised that I hadn't urged it. I replied

that I had not been consulted. Many people asked when they could come

and see me--would I take up my reception day again? That wasn't worth

while, as I was going away so soon, but I said I would be there every

day at five o'clock, and always had visits.

[Illustration: Mme. Sadi Carnot. From a drawing by Mlle. Amelie

Beaury-Saurel.]

One day Madame Sadi Carnot sat a long time with me. Her husband had been

named undersecretary at the Ministry of Public Works in the new

cabinet, and she was very pleased. She was a very charming, intelligent,

cultivated woman--read a great deal, was very keen about politics and

very ambitious (as every clever woman should be) for her husband and

sons. I think she was a great help socially to her husband when he

became President of the Republic. He was a grave, reserved man, didn't

care very much for society. I saw her very often and always found her

most attractive. At the Elysée she was amiable and courteous to

everybody and her slight deafness didn't seem to worry her nor make

conversation difficult. She did such a charming womanly thing just after

her husband's assassination. He lay in state for some days at the

Elysée, and M. Casimir Périer, his successor, went to make her a visit.

As he was leaving he said his wife would come the next day to see Madame

Carnot. She instantly answered, "Pray do not let her come; she is young,

beginning her life here at the Elysée. I wouldn't for worlds that she

should have the impression of sadness and gloom that must hang over the

palace as long as the President is lying there. I should like her to

come to the Elysée only when all traces of this tragedy have gone--and

to have no sad associations--on the contrary, with the prospect of a

long happy future before her."

[Illustration: _Photograph, copyright by Pierre Petit, Paris._

President Sadi Carnot.]

W. went the two or three Fridays we were in Paris to the Institute,

where he was most warmly received by his colleagues, who had much

regretted his enforced absences the years he was at the Foreign Office.

He told them he was going to Rome, where he hoped still to find some

treasures in the shape of inscriptions inédites, with the help of his

friend Lanciani. The days passed quickly enough until we started. It was

not altogether a rest, as there were always so many people at the house,

and W. wanted to put order into his papers before he left. Freycinet

made various changes at the Quai d'Orsay. M. Desprey, Directeur de la

Politique (a post he had occupied for years) was named ambassador to

Rome in the place of the Marquis de Gabriac. I don't think he was very

anxious to go. His career had been made almost entirely at the Foreign

Office, and he was much more at home in his cabinet, with all his papers

and books about him, than he would be abroad among strangers. He came to

dinner one night, and we talked the thing over. W. thought the rest and

change would do him good. He was named to the Vatican, where necessarily

there was much less to do in the way of social life than at the

Quirinal. He was perfectly au courant of all the questions between the

Vatican and the French clergy--his son, secretary of embassy, would go

with him. It seemed rather a pleasant prospect.

W. went once or twice to the Senate, as the houses met on the 12th or

14th of January, but there was nothing very interesting those first

days. The Chamber was taking breath after the holidays and the last

ministerial crisis, and giving the new ministry a chance. I think

Freycinet had his hands full, but he was quite equal to the task. I went

late one afternoon to the Elysée. I had written to Madame Grévy to ask

if she would receive me before I left for Italy. When I arrived, the one

footman at the door told me Madame Grévy was un peu souffrante, would

see me up-stairs. I went up a side staircase, rather dark, preceded by

the footman, who ushered me into Madame Grévy's bedroom. It looked

perfectly uncomfortable--was large, with very high ceilings, stiff gilt

furniture standing against the wall, and the heat something awful,--a

blazing fire in the chimney. Madame Grévy was sitting in an armchair,

near the fire, a grey shawl on her shoulders and a lace fichu on her

head. It was curiously unlike the bedroom I had just left. I had been to

see a friend, who was also souffrante. She was lying under a lace

coverlet lined with pink silk, lace, and embroidered cushions all

around her, flowers, pink lamp-shades, silver flacons, everything most

luxurious and modern. The contrast was striking. Madame Grévy was very

civil, and talkative,--said she was very tired. The big dinners and late

hours she found very fatiguing. She quite understood that I was glad to

get away, but didn't think it was very prudent to travel in such

bitterly cold weather--and Rome was very far, and wasn't I afraid of

fever? I told her I was an old Roman--had lived there for years, knew

the climate well, and didn't think it was worse than any other. She said

the President had had a visit from W. and a very long talk with him, and

that he regretted his departure very much, but that he didn't think

"Monsieur Waddington was au fond de son sac." Grévy was always a good

friend to W.--on one or two occasions, when there was a sort of cabal

against him, Grévy took his part very warmly--and in all questions of

home policy and persons W. found him a very keen, shrewd

observer--though he said very little--rarely expressed an opinion. I

didn't make a very long visit--found my way down-stairs as well as I

could--no servant was visible either on the stairs or in the hall, and

my own footman opened the big doors and let me out. We got off the first

days of February--as, up to the last moment, W. had people to see. We

went for two or three days to Bourneville--I had one or two very cold

tramps in the woods (very dry) which is quite unusual at this time of

the year, but the earth was frozen hard. Inside the woods we were well

sheltered, but when we came out on the plain the cold and icy wind was

awful. The workmen had made fires to burn the roots and rotten wood, and

we were very glad to stop and warm ourselves. Some had their children

with them, who looked half perished with cold, always insufficiently

clad, but they were quite happy roasting potatoes in the ashes. I was so

cold that I tied a woollen scarf around my head, just as the women in

Canada do when they go sleighing or skating.

We had a breakfast one day for some of W.'s influential men in the

country, who were much disgusted at the turn affairs had taken and that

W. could no longer remain minister, but they were very fairly au courant

of all that was going on in Parliament, and quite understood that for

the moment the moderate, experienced men had no chance. The young

Republic must have its fling. Has the country learned much or gained

much in its forty years of Republic?

INDEX

Adams, Sir Francis, school friend of

M. Waddington

Aisne, deputies and senators of Department

of the

Alexander of Battenberg, Prince

Alexander of Russia, Grand Duke

(Emperor Alexander III), interview

with

Alexandra, Queen

Ambassadors, treatment of, in Russia

Americans, violation of rules of court

etiquette by; good-natured tolerance

of, in European circles;

Lord Lyons's opinion of women

of

Andrassy, Count, at Berlin Congress;

personality of

André, Alfred

Annamites as dinner guests

Aosta, Due d', in Paris at opening of

exposition; author's impressions of

Arab horses presented to M. Waddington

Arco, Count

Arnim, Count, German ambassador

in Paris; succeeded by Prince

Hohenlohe

Aumale, Duc d', president of Bazaine

court-martial; at ball at

British embassy

Austria, description of Empress of,

when in Paris; stiffness of court

etiquette in

Baden, Grand Duchess of, M. Waddington's

meeting with

Bazaine, Marshal, court-martial of

Beaconsfield, Lord, at Berlin Congress

Bear as a pet at German embassy

Begging letters received by persons in

public life

Berlin Congress, the; French

plenipotentiaries named to the;

M. Waddington's account of doings at

Berlin Treaty, signing of

Bernhardt, Sarah

Beust, Comte de, as a musician

Bismarck, Count Herbert, story of

telegram from; welcomes M.

Waddington to Berlin

Bismarck, Countess Marie

Bismarck, Prince, account of, at Berlin

Congress; anxiety of,

over French advance in radicalism;

suspicions of sincerity

of, in anxiety for France;

surprise of, over speedy payment of

war indemnity by France

Bismarck, Princess, M. Waddington's

account of

Blowitz, M. de, present during meeting

of Berlin Congress;

M. Waddington's distrust of;

Prince Hohenlohe's high opinion of;

at Madame de Freycinet's

Borel, General

Bourneville, days at; a winter

house-party at; a winter

visit to

Breakfasts, political

Bridge, remarks on

Broglie, Duc de, cabinet of; unpopularity

of; break-up of

cabinet

Brown, John, retainer of Queen Victoria

Bunsen, George de

Bunsen family

Canrobert, Marshal

Capel, Monsignor

Cardinals, incidents attending naming of

Carnot, M. Sadi

Carnot, Madame

Carvalho, Madame

Casimir Périer, dislike of, for office of

president; mentioned;

story of Madame Carnot and

Cataldi, Monsignor

Catholics, views of, concerning Protestants

Chanzy, General, appointed ambassador to Russia

Châteaux in France

Children

interest of Frenchwomen in

good treatment of, by French of all classes

Chinese ambassador, experience at dinner with

Cialdini, General, Italian ambassador in Paris

Clarence, Duke of, love affair of, with Catholic princess

Comédie Française, finished style of artists of the

Compiègne, a scene at, during the Empire

Conciergerie

Mr. Gladstone at the

interest of American visitors in the

Conservatoire,

Sunday afternoon concerts at the

marriages made at the

change effected in dress of chorus of the

Monsignor Czascki at the

Convent of the Soeurs Augustines in the rue de la Santé

Corti

Italian plenipotentiary to Congress of Berlin

feeling of, over establishment of Tunisian protectorate by France

Costumes, national, seen in Paris during exposition year

Country people

lack of interest of French, in form of government

attitude of, in election of 1877

enthusiasm of, aroused over Republic

Croizette, Théâtre Français artist

Cyprus, cession of, to England

Czascki, Monsignor, papal nunzio

Deauville, a vacation at

Décazes, Duc

appointed to Foreign Office

advice on social etiquette from

Duc de Broglie contrasted with

Denmark, Crown Prince of

in Paris during exposition

at ball at British embassy

at ball at the Quai d'Orsay

Desprey, Monseigneur, created a Cardinal

Desprey, M.

a plenipotentiary of France at Berlin Congress

quoted on treatment of ambassadors in Russia

named ambassador to Rome

Diplomatists

antagonistic attitude of, toward the Republic

anomalous and mistaken behaviour of

superficiality of majority of

Dufaure, M.

appointed Président du Conseil

now cabinet formed by

Dufferin, Lord

Election of 1877

Elysée, ceremonies attending naming of Cardinals at

English, Monsignor

English visitors to Paris in 1879

Eugénie, Empress

at Compiègne

description of, and reminiscences concerning

Exposition Universelle of 1878

closing of

good moral effect of

My First Years as a Frenchwoman, 1876-1879 · 第 13 / 14 段