I must pass rapidly over the next few years of my life, though they were
not uneventful. One day Sir Charles called me to him, and, taking my
hand, he said kindly, "I have been considering, Mark, that it will be
necessary to send you home in order to complete your education, which
cannot be done out here to my satisfaction."
"Home!" I asked. "Where is that, papa? This is the only home I know."
"In England, my boy; that is my home, where I hope to return to end my
days; and it should be your home also. I wish you to be brought up to
think, and feel, and act as an Englishman, and that you can only do by
mixing on equal terms with other English boys of your own age. In fact,
you are too much of a man already; and I wish you to be rubbed back into
boyhood again."
In reply, I tried to persuade him that I would endeavour to become in
every respect what he wished, if he would allow me to remain with him;
for I sincerely grieved at the thought of being separated from so kind a
guardian; at the same time, I own that I could not help looking with
very great satisfaction at the prospect of a visit to a land so full of
wonders as I expected to find England. People are apt to think the
country they have not seen much more wonderful than the one where they
are residing. Before people travelled, as they do now, the most absurd
stories of distant countries were reported and believed even by sensible
men. It was supposed that races of men existed, some with their heads
under their arms, others with three eyes, and that others, again, were
of gigantic stature; indeed, the tales of the Arabian Nights appeared
scarcely in any way to be exaggerations.
We were, at the time of which I speak, some way up the country; and as
Sir Charles was about to proceed to Calcutta, I had the advantage of
travelling in his society. An English gentleman is obliged to perform a
journey in India in a very different way, to what he would in England.
A family of moderate size has a hundred or more attendants, with numbers
of elephants, and bullocks, and horses, and, in some districts, camels.
It is a curious sight to see a party starting on the first morning of a
journey; the palanquins, and hackeries, and carriages, and long strings
of animals, varying in size from the mighty elephant to the little pony,
defile out from among the houses of the town. As there are no inns or
other buildings to afford shelter, it is necessary to carry tents, and
cooking apparatus, and furniture and provisions; then all the upper
servants have their attendants, and the guards theirs, in addition to
the drivers of the animals; so, as may be supposed, a very few officers
will require a whole army of followers. The more weighty articles are
packed in hackeries, which are the small carts of the country, drawn by
bullocks. Females, chiefly of the lower ranks, are conveyed in a
similar rough vehicle, covered over at the top. Trunks are also slung
across the backs of bullocks. Tents are carried by camels or elephants;
and lighter articles, liable to fracture, are borne on the heads or over
the shoulders of men. China and cooking apparatus are carried in large
baskets hung on poles by four men, like a palanquin. The _meter_ walks
along with his dogs in a leash; the shepherd drives his sheep before
him; and ducks and hens journey in baskets. There are spare horses led
by grooms, and watermen and water-carriers march alongside their
bullocks. Among the miscellaneous concourse appears the head-servant,
or _khansamah_, mounted generally on some steed discarded by his master,
while his inferiors either walk on foot, or get a lift in a hackery, or
on the back of a camel; but all trudge along with cheerfulness, and
alacrity.
Palanquins are sometimes like small four-post beds, with richly
ornamented curtains, and supported by a long horizontal pole, borne by
four men. Children are conveyed in a palanquin carriage, a curtained
vehicle on wheels, not unlike the cage of a wild beast. The nurse sits
on the floor with the baby on her knees, while the rest of the children
may be seen looking through the bars which keep them in. It is drawn by
bullocks; and as it moves floundering along over the heavy roads, it
threatens to upset at every jolt.
It is surprising to see the rapid manner in which the multifarious
materials, which compose the temporary city, are reduced to order. The
spot so lately a silent desert is peopled, as if by magic, by crowds of
human beings, and animals of every description. The ground on every
side is strewed with packages, chests, and cloth bundles; while the men,
moving about with violent gesticulations and loud exclamations, employ
themselves in their well-known and allotted tasks. By degrees graceful
forms arise, and richly-tinted pavilions, with gilded summits, glitter
in the sunbeams, while gaudy banners flutter in the air. Long lines of
canvas sheets appear, and spacious enclosures formed of _kanauts_ secure
the utmost privacy to the dwellers of the populous camp; while the
elephants, who have trodden out the ground, and smoothed it for the
chief's or master's tent, retire to their bivouac. Not only comfort,
but even elegance is imparted to these temporary abodes, fitted up with
such rapidity in the midst of the wildest jungle. Gay-coloured shawls
form the roof and sides, rich carpets the floor, and soft couches run
round the walls of the tented apartment.
Palanquins and carriages begin to arrive: the ladies find their
toilet-tables laid out; baths are ready for the gentlemen; the
_khidmutghars_ are preparing breakfast, and the _hookabadhars_ are
getting the _chillums_ in readiness; while the elephants, camels,
bullocks, horses, and the other animals, as well as their drivers, and
the tent-pitchers, coolies, and all those who have been employed in
fatiguing offices, are buried in profound repose.
Day after day the same scene takes place, varied sometimes by a tiger or
a wild boar hunt, when one is passing through a part of the country,
where they are to be found.
The dinner in camp is usually as well supplied with the products of the
larder as the repast served up in a settled establishment. Several very
excellent dishes have been invented, which are peculiarly adapted to the
cooking apparatus suited to the jungle.
Immediately after the dinner the _khidmutghars_, cooks, and
_mussaulchees_ pack up the utensils belonging to their department, and
set forward with the tent, which is to be to-morrow's dwelling, leaving
the bearers to attend at tea, their objection to doing duty at table
extending only to repasts composed of animal food.
During our long journey, we were compelled to halt several times for a
day or two, to refresh the weary frames of the men and cattle, toiling
under the burthen of the camp equipage. The camp on those days used to
present even a more busy scene than usual. The _dobies_ were employed
in washing and ironing their master's clothes, while the other servants
and camp-followers were mending, making, and repairing garments,
saddles, and harness, and tackle of all descriptions.
Part of our journey was performed by water down the Ganges, on hoard a
_budgerow_. The name of this boat is a native corruption of the word
_barge_. It is somewhat in appearance like an overgrown gondola--very
picturesque, and not altogether inelegant. The interior is fitted up
with sleeping apartments and a sitting-room, with an enclosed verandah
in front, which serves to keep off the sun; the cabin is on all sides
surrounded by venetians, which serve to keep off his burning rays by
day, and to let in the air at night. On a small deck, left free at the
bows, the boatmen stand, urging on the boat with long sweeps; while the
roof of the cabin, or upper deck, as it might be called, is the chief
resort of the servants and the rest of the crew. The helmsman is posted
on a high platform at the stern, guiding the boat with a huge rudder;
and the _goleer_, stationed at the bow, ascertains with a long pole the
depth of the water. When the wind is fair, two large square sails are
hoisted; and as the vessel draws but little water, they send her rapidly
along. A baggage boat is always in attendance on a _budgerow_; she also
carries the provisions and the servants, and the cooking apparatus.
Besides these two boats, a smaller one, called a _dinghee_, is used to
communicate between the two, or to send messages on shore. When the
wind is contrary, or when there is none, and the banks of the river will
allow it, the boats are towed along by sixteen or more men, dragging at
a rope fastened to the mast-head.
I remember being particularly struck with the number and beauty of the
lotus, floating on the waters of the Ganges, as also with other flowers,
of scarlet, yellow, and white hues; while numberless others, of every
tint, garnished either bank of the stream.
A remarkable feature of the Ganges is the fine Ghauts, or
landing-places, one of which is to be found leading from the water even
to the smallest village. They consist of five flights of steps, either
of stone or _chunam_ highly polished; and have, besides being most
useful, a very handsome appearance. On either side are stone
balustrades, and sometimes beautiful temples, mosques, or pagodas,
according to the creed of the founders. At every time of the day, on
the Ghauts, may be seen groups of bathers; while graceful female forms
are continually passing and re-passing, loaded with water-pots, which
are balanced with the nicest precision on their heads.
As we proceed down the river an infinite variety of scenes meets our
sight--now overhanging cliffs, crowned by some beautiful Oriental
edifice; then green woods and fields, with quiet villages seen among
them; next a herd of buffaloes wallowing in the mud, their horns and the
tips of their noses alone out of the water, or, perhaps, their keepers
are about to drive them across the stream, for though fierce in
appearance, they are as tame as oxen. The herdsmen mount on the necks
of the strongest, and thus fearlessly stem the current, almost
completely immersed in the water. We saw wide pastures covered with
innumerable herds; forests, with their eternal shade; and indigo
plantations, in charge of Europeans. Sometimes a gigantic elephant was
observed under the shade of a tree, fanning off the flies with a branch
of palm; others were pacing along, decked in gaudy trappings, and
hearing their masters in howdahs through the fields or plantations.
The most elegant and picturesque buildings are the temples and
habitations of the Brahmins, in situations remote from the busy haunts
of men. Here the mistaken devotees of a barbarous faith spend their
time in weaving garlands for their altars, or to deck the rafts which
they commit to the holy stream.
Innumerable varieties of birds are seen, some flying in flocks, and
others stalking along the reedy shore.
After leaving these wild and picturesque scenes behind, one comes
suddenly upon one of the beautiful modern towns, built by the British,
on the banks of the river, filled with superb palaces, well suited for
the habitations of princes, though but the residences of the civil
servants of the East India Company.
During the day the heat in the cabin is often very great; but as the sun
declines, the temperature agreeably decreases. As the crew will not
work at night, it is necessary, as it grows dark, to moor the budgerow
to the shore. The moment this is done, a very active and animated scene
commences; the domestics, whose services are not required on board, and
all the crew, immediately disembark; fires are kindled for the various
messes; those who are anxious for quiet and seclusion, light up their
fagots at a considerable distance from the boat.
At length we arrived at Calcutta, where Sir Charles, to his great
satisfaction, found Captain Willis, who was on the point of sailing for
England in his old ship, the _Governor Harcourt_. I was, accordingly,
forthwith committed to his charge, and consigned to the care of a
brother of my kind guardian, the Reverend Mr Plowden. I parted from
Sir Charles with much sorrow, which, I believe, was fully shared with
him.
We were detained some days by contrary winds in the Hoogly; so that, by
the time we got clear of the mouth of the river, we were tolerably well
acquainted with each other. I made myself perfectly at home, and gained
the friendship of all the passengers. I had none of that false shame or
bashfulness about me which makes so many English boys appear to
disadvantage among strangers, and prevents them from gaining the regard
of their acquaintance, though I had perfect respect for my elders, and
due deference for the opinions of those who, from their age and
experience, I felt ought to know the world better than I could myself.
I must not forget to mention that we came in sight of the far-famed
temple of Juggernaut, on the coast of Orissa, in the district of
Cuttack. The dark and frowning pagoda, rising abruptly from a ridge of
sand, forms a conspicuous object from the sea, its huge shapeless mass
not unlike some ill-proportioned giant, affording a gloomy type of the
hideous superstitions of the land. This huge pagoda, half pyramid and
half tower, is built of coarse red granite, brought from the southern
parts of Cuttack, and covered with a rough coating of chunam.
The tower containing the idols, which is two hundred feet high, and
serves as a land-mark to the mariner, stands in the centre of a
quadrangle, enclosed by a high stone wall, extending 650 feet on each
side, and surrounded by minor edifices of nondescript shapes. The
magnitude of these buildings forms their sole claim to admiration; they
are profusely decorated with sculpture, but of so rude a description as
to afford no satisfaction to the beholder. The great temple of
Juggernaut was erected in the twelfth century. The idols are of huge
size and hideous shape. Krishna, the chief, in intended as a mystic
representation of the supreme power; for the Hindoos assert that they
worship only one God, and that the thousands of other images to which
they pay homage are merely attributes of a deity pervading the whole of
nature. Every one of the idols particularly venerated by the numerous
tribes and sects of Hindostan, obtains a shrine within the precincts of
the temple; so that all castes may unite in celebrating the great
festival with one accord. The installation of the mighty idol upon his
car, and his journey to a country residence, about a mile and a half
distant only, though it occupies three days, is performed with
numberless extraordinary ceremonies by his devotees. The car is a sort
of platform, forty-three feet in height, and thirty-five feet square,
moving upon sixteen wheels, each six feet and a half in diameter.
Though the ponderous wheels of Juggernaut no longer go crushing over the
bodies of prostrate victims, the assembled crowd rush to the car with
almost appalling fury and excitement. Pilgrims, however, come in vast
numbers from all parts of the country to the temple, and thousands die
from famine and exhaustion on the arid road across the sands which
surround it. That the vile and dark superstitions I have been
describing may disappear before the pure light of Christianity, should
be the prayer of all believers; but we must remember, also, that the
personal exertions and example of those who are called into that
wonderful land are also required to effect that great object, and that
they can in no way be excused if they neglect that duty.
This was the last glimpse we had of India. We did not even sight the
Cape of Good Hope; and Saint Helena was the first land we made. We
remained there two days, and everybody went to see the grave of
Napoleon. I remember after dinner, on the day we again sailed, that
there was a long discussion as to the right England had to keep him a
prisoner. It was the opinion of all the older and most sensible men,
that as he had been the greatest curse to Europe, and a constant source
of annoyance and expense to our country, we were only performing our
duty in taking the most effectual means to prevent him from committing
any further mischief. In less civilised times, he would probably have
been deprived of life by one of the many means once resorted to for that
purpose.
The remainder of our voyage was as prosperous as the commencement, and
we arrived safely in the Thames about four months after leaving
Calcutta. As there was not a human being I knew in England, I was in no
hurry to leave the ship; and I therefore waited till Captain Willis
could accompany me to call on Mr Plowden. On first landing, and when
driving through the streets, I was completely bewildered by the noise,
and bustle, and apparent confusion going on around me. I wondered how
the people could thread their way along the pavement, and more how they
could venture to cross the road while carriages were dashing by at a
rate so furious that I thought they must be constantly running into each
other. After proceeding some miles to the west-end of London, we
reached Mr Plowden's house. He received me very kindly; and after some
conversation, he inquired whether I should like to go to school, or to
live with a private tutor by myself. I replied, "To school, by all
means," as I wished to see life, and to make friends. To school,
therefore, it was settled I should go.