Our voyage was most propitious, and, without any event worthy of notice,
we approached the mouth of the Hoogly, on the shore of which stands
Calcutta, the magnificent city whither we were bound. While still some
way off the land the pilot came on board to take charge of the ship; and
now, from the heavy responsibility which had so long weighed on the
shoulders of Captain Willis, he was in part relieved, as the pilot
became answerable for the safety of the ship. While we slowly glide up
the placid stream, one of the mouths of the far-famed Ganges, the sacred
river of the Hindoos, I will give a short description of it.
The Ganges is 1,500 miles long, and as far as 500 miles from the sea the
channel is thirty feet deep, when, during the dry season, the river is
at its lowest, while so great even there is its width, that it appears
like an inland sea. At 200 miles from the ocean the Ganges separates
into two branches; the south-east retaining the name of the Ganges, and
the west assuming the appellation of the Hoogly; the delta, or
triangular space between the two, being called the Sunderbunds.
Among the eternal snows of the lofty mountains of the Himalaya, 20,000
feet above the level of the sea, in latitude 30 degrees north, is found
the source of this superb stream. It is said to issue out of the
precipitous side of a lofty mountain, from beneath an arch 300 feet
high, composed of deep frozen layers of snow, surrounded by icicles of
gigantic magnitude. Such was, the mighty stream on which the good ship
the _Governor Harcourt_ was now floating.
On its eastern bank stands Calcutta, the City of Palaces as it is often
called. My earliest recollections were of the clusters of columns, the
long colonnades, and lofty gateways of its magnificent mansions. The
residences are, for the most part, either entirely detached from each
other, or connected only by long ranges of terraces, surmounted, like
the flat roofs of the houses, with balustrades. The greater number of
the mansions have pillared verandahs, extending the whole way up,
sometimes to the height of three stories, besides a large portico in
front, the whole having a very picturesque appearance, especially when
intermingled with forest trees and flowering shrubs. The houses are
built of brick, covered with cement, which looks like stone and as even
the more ordinary buildings are spread over a considerable extent of
ground, they have a very imposing effect, unlike any inhabited by
persons of the same rank in England. But close even to the palaces of
the most wealthy are to be seen wretched mud huts; and rows of native
hovels, constructed of mats, thatch, and bamboos, often rest against
their outer walls, while there are avenues opening from the principal
streets, intersected in all directions by native bazaars, filled with
unsightly articles of every description.
Sir Charles Plowden lived in a very large house, and though his own
habits were very simple, the custom of the country required him to have
a large retinue of domestics. Thus I was brought up in almost barbaric
splendour, with a number of persons whose only business was to attend
upon my wishes. My kind guardian, whenever his public duties permitted,
had me with him, and himself superintended my education, which prevented
the ill effects of the indulgence I was allowed. A sitting-room in
India is very unlike one in England. The sofas, chairs, and tables are
placed at a foot distance from the wall, on account of the reptiles
which would otherwise find their way on to them. All the walls are
pierced with doors, through which are seen, like ghosts, the servants,
clad in flowing white garments, gliding about with noiseless feet in all
directions. None of the inferior domestics keep themselves, as in
England, in the background--the water-carrier alone confines his
perambulations to the back staircases; all the others, down to the
scullions, make their appearance in the state apartments whenever they
please; and in Bengal even the lower orders of palanquin-bearers, who
wear but little clothing, will walk into a room without ceremony, and
endeavour to make themselves useful by dusting the furniture, setting it
in order; at the same time, any of the upper servants would deem it
highly disrespectful to their masters to appear without their turbans,
or their other usual clothing.
The punkah, a necessary appendage of every house, is worthy of
description. It is formed of a wooden framework, a foot and a half or
two feet broad, hung in the centre of the room, and extending nearly its
whole length. This frame is covered with painted canvas or fluted silk,
finished round the edges with gilt mouldings. It is suspended from the
ceiling by ropes, covered with scarlet cloth, very tastefully disposed,
and hangs within seven feet of the ground. A rope is fastened to the
centre, and the whole apparatus waves to and fro, creating, if pulled
vigorously, a strong current of air, and rendering the surrounding
atmosphere endurable, when the heat would, without it, be very
disagreeable.
Captain Clayton was stationed up the country, where Mrs Clayton took my
little sister, and Ellen Barrow accompanied them. I was very sorry to
part from all my kind friends, as well as my little sister, and often
used to ask when they were coming back again. I missed my sweet
playmate, Ellen Barrow, very much; for among all my obsequious
attendants, no one could romp with me as she did, or amuse me half so
much. I loved her dearly, and had I never again seen her, I think I
should never have forgotten her countenance.
I must be very brief with this part of my history, as the adventures I
afterwards met with will, I doubt not, prove more interesting to my
readers.
I must, however, while I am talking of India, recommend my young friends
to make themselves well acquainted with the geographical position of the
most important places in it. I have often, since coming to England,
been asked if I knew Mr So-and-so of India, as if India was a town or
an English county. A glance at the map will show the immense extent of
the British possessions in the East. They are divided into three
Presidencies, or Sub-governments--those of Bengal, Madras and Bombay.
Connected with these are a great number of subsidiary and protected
states. Some of the nominal rulers of these are tributary to the
Company, others receive stipends from them; while a great many have
British residents or envoys stationed at their courts, who advise them
how to govern, and many have, besides, British troops, to keep them in
order and their enemies in awe.
The vast extent of country between the Ganges and the Indus, with the
Himalaya mountains on the north, may be considered as almost entirely
British; at all events, British troops are stationed in all directions,
and British travellers may move north and south, and east and west,
without let or hindrance. Thus it may be seen, that it is very possible
for people to reside all their lives in India and not to meet; at the
same time, as the British move about a great deal, especially the
military, who, in time of war, are brought much in contact, they
certainly meet oftener, and hear more of each other than would be
expected.
I feel assured that the rule of the British has proved a blessing to the
people of India. Had it not done so, we should not, I think, have been
allowed to keep possession of the country. At the same time, we might
have proved a far greater blessing than we have been; for had we set a
better example in religion and morality, I cannot but suppose that the
divine truths of Christianity would have made greater progress among the
inhabitants than they have. Very many of my readers may have their
future fortunes cast in that land of wonders, and let me entreat them to
remember the immense responsibility which rests on their shoulders.
According to the example they set, so may the benighted natives be
brought to perceive the beauty and excellence of true religion, or they
may remain in their present darkness. Let me ask you a question: Who
will be answerable for the ignorance and crimes of the poor natives--
they who have never had the light presented to them, or you who might,
by your example and precept, have offered it to them and would not?
In saying this, I at the same time advise you to respect the prejudices
and customs of the people. You can never win people over to the truth
by insulting their superstition, however gross. I only urge you to be,
in your own lives, a bright example.