Early on the morning of the 19th we started again. It began to
snow not long after our departure, and before mid-day the wind had
increased to a storm, and my guide said we should have a regular
poorga. We therefore directed our course for a small creek or branch
that unites Veyvinskoia to Kammina River. We were not long before we
got there, and followed its winding course, whilst its high banks
defended us from the rigors of the snowstorm. After travelling in
this way about an hour, we stopped to prepare our dinner, but found
the wind and snow beat over the banks with such violence that we
could not keep our fire burning five minutes at a time. After many
attempts we persisted no longer, and contented ourselves with eating
some cold boiled venison that had fortunately been prepared the day
before; and very happy were we that my Chinese cook had been so
provident. By the time we had finished our cold repast, we found it
impossible to proceed any farther, and, drawing our sledges close
under the windward bank of the creek, with the dogs in front, we
passed the night on this dreary spot. A dismal night it was, for
the snow and sleet beat in whirlwinds over the bank with unceasing
violence; and it was impossible to hold one’s face towards the wind
for an instant. Although I slept in a kibitka that I tried to close
up as tightly as possible, the snow beat into the crevices; and when
I first awoke I found myself completely covered, and with difficulty
extricated myself. The dogs, sledges, and men were so entirely
concealed that I could only discern the marks where they lay; and I
beat about and trampled amongst them some time before I could rouse
them.
As the latter part of the night was warmer, and the snow fell in
immense quantities, or rather drifted over us, we slept very warmly
and comfortably. On the 20th, the wind having abated, and the weather
proving mild, we determined to set off again, first spending an hour
or two in shaking the snow off our clothes, baggage, and sledges,
where it was found in abundance. It was absolutely necessary to
depart, for not a stick of wood, nor even a twig, could we find
to make a fire; and we travelled on until near eleven o’clock in
the day before we arrived where there was wood enough to boil the
tea-kettle. With what pleasure and satisfaction did we swallow a warm
and cheering cup of tea, that delicious beverage, far exceeding every
other when one is cold and weary! Ardent spirits will warm you more
quickly, but their effects are not so lasting, and occasion a stupor
that makes you feel afterwards quite drowsy.