CHAPTER XII

FUR DYEING

MINERAL COLORS USED ON FURS

Before the introduction of the fur dyes now used, certain inorganic

chemical substances were employed in addition to the vegetable dyes,

for the production of colors on furs. Even to this day such materials

are used to obtain certain effects in special instances. The idea of

employing mineral chemicals undoubtedly originated in the textile-dyeing

industry, which at one time was dependent to an appreciable extent on

mineral substances for the production of certain fast shades. Compounds

of iron, lead, manganese, also of copper, cobalt and nickel were all used

for dyeing, either singly or in various combinations. In the application

on furs, the brush method was the only one practicable, as the skins would

have been ruined by dipping them into solutions of these chemicals in the

concentrations necessary for dyeing.

The dyeing of furs with mineral colors involves the precipitation on

the fibre in a more or less permanent form of the sulphide, oxide or

other insoluble compound of a metal, and can be brought about in several

ways. By what is known as double decomposition, that is, by the use

of two solutions successively applied, the ingredient of one causing a

precipitate to form when in contact with the constituent of the second,

the color is produced on the hair. Another method is to use solutions of

chemicals which decompose on contact with the hair, forming an insoluble

compound. In the first method the hair is alternately treated with the

two solutions of the requisite chemicals, drying between each brushing,

the process being repeated until the desired shade is obtained. The second

method merely requires the solution of the chemical to be applied to the

hair, which is then dried, the color forming by itself.

One of the most important of the mineral dyes, and which is occasionally

used to this day, is lead sulphide, formed by the double decomposition

method by precipitating a soluble lead salt with ammonium sulphide, or any

other alkaline sulphide. By simply brushing an aqueous solution of lead

acetate, also known as sugar of lead, on a white fur such as white hare or

rabbit, a light, brownish coloration is obtained due to the combination of

the lead with the sulphur of the hair. If the lead solution is carefully

applied several times on this type of fur, until a sufficiently dark

color is produced, it is possible to get a fairly good imitation of the

stone marten. The brown color is very fast, being actually formed within

the hair. In most cases, however, for dyeing lead sulphide shades it is

necessary to use the two solutions. Thus the pale greyish or slightly

brownish-grey shades of the lynx can be reproduced on white rabbit or

hare by this process. A solution containing 60 grams of lead acetate per

liter of water is brushed on to the hair of the fur which has previously

been killed in the usual manner, and the hair is then dried. A solution

of 50 grams of ammonium sulphide per liter of water is next brushed on,

and the fur again dried. Care must be exercised in handling the ammonium

sulphide as it is a very malodorous liquid, the fumes of which are

poisonous when inhaled. The alternate brushings are repeated until the

desired depth of shade is obtained. A very dark brown, approaching a black

can be obtained in this way. This color can be used for the production of

certain attractive effects. By brushing over the tips of the hair, which

has previously been dyed a dark brown by means of the lead sulphide color,

with a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid, or with peroxide of hydrogen,

the hair will become white in the parts so treated, due to the formation

of lead chloride or lead sulphate, respectively. Thus white tipped furs

can be obtained, but the process is applicable only when the furs have

been dyed by the lead sulphide method.

Potassium permanganate is occasionally used to produce dyeings of a

brown shade on furs. Considerable care has to be taken in applying this

substance, as it is possible to affect the hair. The strength of the

solution must be varied according as the hair to be dyed is weak or

strong. A cold solution of 10 to 20 grams of potassium permanganate per

liter of water is brushed on to the hair, which is then dried. A brown

precipitate of manganese is formed on the hair after a short time, and

the process is repeated until the required shade is obtained. For furs

with harder hair, stronger solutions can be used. The dyeing is very

fast, but it is seldom used, cheaper and better shades being obtained in

other ways. Spotted white effects can be produced on the brown dyeing with

permanganate of potash by applying a solution of sodium bisulphite, the

brown color being dissolved by this chemical.

The compounds of other metals, such as iron, copper, cobalt and nickel

are not used in practise as the dyeings are not fast, and can be better

produced in other ways.

Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing · 第 12 / 17 章