OF GOOD MANNERS, DRESS AND THE WORLD[16]

There is a _bienséance_ with regard to people of the lowest degree; a

gentleman observes it with his footman, even with the beggar in the

street. He considers them as objects of compassion, not of insult; he

speaks to neither _d'un ton brusque_, but corrects the one coolly, and

refuses the other with humanity. There is no one occasion in the

world, in which _le ton brusque_ is becoming a gentleman. In short,

_les bienséances_ are another word for manners, and extend to every

part of life. They are propriety; the Graces should attend in order to

complete them: the Graces enable us to do genteelly and pleasingly

what _les bienséances_ require to be done at all. The latter are an

obligation upon every man; the former are an infinite advantage and

ornament to any man.

People unused to the world have babbling countenances, and are

unskilful enough to show what they have sense enough not to tell. In

the course of the world, a man must very often put on an easy, frank

countenance, upon very disagreeable occasions; he must seem pleased,

when he is very much otherwise; he must be able to accost and receive

with smiles those whom he would much rather meet with swords. In

courts he must not turn himself inside out. All this may, nay, must be

done, without falsehood and treachery: for it must go no further than

politeness and manners, and must stop short of assurances and

professions of simulated friendship. Good manners to those one does

not love are no more a breach of truth than "your humble servant," at

the bottom of a challenge, is; they are universally agreed upon and

understood to be things of course. They are necessary guards of the

decency and peace of society: they must only act defensively; and then

not with arms poisoned with perfidy. Truth, but not the whole truth,

must be the invariable principle of every man who hath either

religion, honor, or prudence.

I can not help forming some opinion of a man's sense and character

from his dress; and I believe most people do as well as myself. Any

affectation whatsoever in dress implies in my mind a flaw in the

understanding.... A man of sense carefully avoids any particular

character in his dress; he is accurately clean for his own sake; but

all the rest is for other people's. He dresses as well, and in the

same manner, as the people of sense and fashion of the place where he

is. If he dresses better, as he thinks--that is, more than they--he is

a fop; if he dresses worse, he is unpardonably negligent: but of the

two, I would rather have a young fellow too much than too little

drest, the excess on that side will wear off with a little age and

reflection; but if he is negligent at twenty, he will be a sloven at

forty and stink at fifty years old. Dress yourself fine where others

are fine, and plain where others are plain; but take care always that

your clothes are well made and fit you, for otherwise they will give

you a very awkward air. When you are once well drest for the day,

think no more of it afterward; and without any stiffness or fear of

discomposing that dress, let all your motions be as easy and natural

as if you had no clothes on at all.

A friend of yours and mine has justly defined good breeding to be "the

result of much good sense, some good nature, and a little self-denial

for the sake of others, and with a view to obtain the same indulgence

from them." Taking this for granted (as I think it can not be

disputed), it is astonishing to me that anybody who has good sense and

good nature (and I believe you have both) can essentially fail in good

breeding. As to the modes of it, indeed, they vary according to

persons, places, and circumstances, and are only to be acquired by

observation and experience; but the substance of it is everywhere and

eternally the same. Good manners are to particular societies what good

morals are to society in general--their cement and their security.

And as laws are enacted to enforce good morals, or at least to prevent

the ill effects of bad ones, so there are certain rules of civility,

universally implied and received, to enforce good manners and punish

bad ones. And indeed there seems to me to be less difference, both

between the crimes and punishments, than at first one would

imagine.... Mutual complaisances, attentions, and sacrifices of little

conveniences are as natural an implied compact between civilized

people as protection and obedience are between kings and subjects:

whoever in either case violates that compact, justly forfeits all

advantages arising from it. For my own part, I really think that next

to the consciousness of doing a good action, that of doing a civil one

is the most pleasing: and the epithet which I should covet the most,

next to that of Aristides, would be that of "well-bred."

Men who converse only with women are frivolous, effeminate puppies,

and those who never converse with them are bears.

The desire of being pleased is universal. The desire of pleasing

should be so too. Misers are not so much blamed for being misers as

envied for being rich.

Dissimulation, to a certain degree, is as necessary in business as

clothes are in the common intercourse of life; and a man would be as

imprudent who should exhibit his inside naked, as he would be indecent

if he produced his outside so.

A woman will be implicitly governed by the man whom she is in love

with, but will not be directed by the man whom she esteems the most.

The former is the result of passion, which is her character; the

latter must be the effect of reasoning, which is by no means of the

feminine gender.

The best moral virtues are those of which the vulgar are, perhaps, the

best judges.

Let us, then, not only scatter benefits, but even strew flowers, for

our fellow travelers in the rugged ways of this wretched world.

Your duty to man is very short and clear; it is only to do to him

whatever you would be willing that he should do to you. And remember

in all the business of your life to ask your conscience this question,

Should I be willing that this should be done to me? If your

conscience, which will always tell you truth, answers no, do not do

that thing. Observe these rules, and you will be happy in this world

and still happier in the next.

Carefully avoid all affectation either of mind or body. It is a very

true and a very trite observation that no man is ridiculous for being

what he really is, but for affecting to be what he is not. No man is

awkward by nature, but by affecting to be genteel, and I have known

many a man of common sense pass generally for a fool because he

affected a degree of wit that God had denied him. A plowman is by no

means awkward in the exercise of his trade, but would be exceedingly

ridiculous if he attempted the airs and grace of a man of fashion.

What is commonly called in the world a man or a woman of spirit are

the two most detestable and most dangerous animals that inhabit it.

They are strong-headed, captious, jealous, offended without reason,

and offending with as little. The man of spirit has immediate

recourse to his sword, and the woman of spirit to her tongue, and it

is hard to say which of the two is the most mischievous weapon.

Speak to the King with full as little concern (tho with more respect)

as you would to your equals. This is the distinguishing characteristic

of a gentleman and a man of the world.

That silly article of dress is no trifle. Never be the first nor the

last in the fashion. Wear as fine clothes as those of your rank

commonly do, and rather better than worse, and when you are well drest

once a day do not seem to know that you have any clothes on at all,

but let your carriage and motion be as easy as they would be in your

nightgowns.

Let your address when you first come into any company be modest, but

without the least bashfulness or sheepishness, steady without

impudence, and as unembarrassed as if you were in your own room. This

is a difficult point to hit, and therefore deserves great attention;

nothing but a long usage of the world and in the best company can

possibly give it.

The Best of the World's Classics, Restricted to Prose, Vol. IV (of X)—Great Britain and Ireland II · 第 66 / 170 题