THE LICHEN DYES
Some of the most useful dyes and the least known are to be found among
the Lichens. They seem to have been used among peasant dyers from
remote ages, but apparently none of the great French dyers used them,
nor are they mentioned in any of the old books on dyeing. The only
Lichen dyes that are known generally among dyers are Orchil and
Cudbear, and these are preparations of lichens, not the lichens
themselves. They are still used in some quantity and are prepared
rather elaborately. But a great many of the ordinary lichens yield
very good and permanent dyes. The _Parmelia saxatilis_ and _Parmelia
omphalodes_, are largely used in the Highlands and West Ireland, for
dyeing brown of all shades. No mordant is needed, and the colours
produced are the fastest known. "Crottle" is the general name for
Lichens in Scotland. They are gathered off the rocks in July and
August, dried in the sun, and used to dye wool, without any
preparation. The crottle is put into the bath with a sufficient
quantity of water, boiled up, allowed to cool, then boiled up with the
wool until the shade required is got. This may take from one to three
or four hours, as the dye is not rapidly taken up by the wool. Other
dyers use it in the following way: A layer of crottle, a layer of
wool, and so on until the bath is full; fill with cold water and bring
to the boil, and boil till the colour is deep enough. The wool does
not seem to be affected by keeping it in the dye a long time. A small
quantity of acetic acid put with the Lichen is said to assist in
exhausting the colour.
The grey Lichen, _Ramalina scopulorum_ dyes a fine shade of yellow
brown. It grows very plentifully on old stone walls, especially by the
sea, and in damp woods, on trees, and on old rotten wood. Boil the
Lichen up in sufficient water one day, and the next put in the wool,
and boil up again till the right colour is got. If the wool is left
in the dye for a day or more after boiling it absorbs more colour, and
it does not hurt the wool but leaves it soft and silky to the touch,
though apt to be uneven in colour. Some mordant the wool first with
alum, but it does not seem to need it.
The best known of the dye Lichens are _Parmelia saxatilis_ and
_Parmelia omphalodes_ which are still largely used in Scotland and
Ireland for dyeing wool for tweeds. The well-known Harris tweed smell
is partly due to the use of this dye.
Other Lichens also known for their dyeing properties are: _Parmelia
caperata_, or Stone Crottle, which contains a yellow dye, _P.
ceratophylla_, or Dark Crottle, and _P. parietina_, the common wall
Lichen, which gives a colour similar to that of the Lichen itself,
yellowish brown. A deep red colour can be got from the dull grey
friable Lichen, common on old stone walls. The bright yellow Lichen,
growing on rocks and walls, and old roofs, dyes a fine plum colour, if
the wool is mordanted first with Bichromate of Potash.
In Sweden, Scotland and other countries the peasantry use a Lichen,
called _Lecanora tartarea_ to furnish a red or crimson dye. It is
found abundantly on almost all rocks, and also grows on dry moors. It
is collected in May and June, and steeped in stale urine for about
three weeks, being kept at a moderate heat all the time. The substance
having then a thick and strong texture, like bread, and being of a
blueish black colour, is taken out and made into small cakes of about
3/4 lb. in weight, which are wrapped in dock leaves and hung up to dry
in peat smoke. When dry it may be preserved fit for use for many
years; when wanted for dyeing it is partially dissolved in warm water;
5 lbs. of Korkalett is considered sufficient for about 4 Scotch ells
of cloth. The colour produced is a light red. It is used in the dyeing
of yarn as well as of cloth.
In Shetland, the _Parmelia saxatilis_ (Scrottyie) is used to dye
brown. It is found in abundance on argillaceous rocks. It is
considered best if gathered late in the year, and is generally
collected in August.
Linnaeus mentions that a beautiful red colour may be prepared from the
Lichen _Gyrophora pustulata_. _G. Cylindrica_ is used by Icelanders
for dyeing woollen stuffs a brownish green colour. In Sweden and
Norway, _Evernia vulpina_ is used for dyeing woollen stuffs yellow.
Iceland Moss, _Cetraria Islandica_, is used in Iceland for dyeing
brown. _Usnea barbata_ is collected from trees in Pennsylvania, and
used for an orange colour for yarn.
A general method for using lichens is suggested by Dr. Westring of
Sweden in his _Experiments on Lichens for Dyeing Wools and Silks_:
"The Lichens should be gathered after some days of rain,
they can then be more easily detached from the rocks. They
should be well washed, dried, and reduced to a fine powder:
25 parts of pure river water are added to 1 of powdered
lichen and 1 part of fresh quick lime to 10 parts powdered
lichen. To 10 lbs. lichen half a pound sal ammoniac is
sufficient when lime and sal ammoniac are used together. The
vessel containing them should be kept covered for the first
2 or 3 days. Sometimes the addition of a little common salt
or salt-petre will give greater lustre to the colours."
This method can be followed by anyone wishing to experiment with
Lichens.
Dr. Westring did not use a mordant as a rule. Where the same species
of Lichen grows on both rocks and trees, the specimens taken from
rocks give the better colours.
ORCHIL OR ARCHIL AND CUDBEAR are substantive or non mordants dyes,
obtained from Lichens of various species of Roccella growing on rocks
in the Canary Islands and other tropical and sub-tropical countries.
They used to be made in certain parts of Great Britain from various
lichens, but the manufacture of these has almost entirely disappeared.
They have been known from early times as dyes. They give beautiful
purples and reds, but the colour is not very fast. The dye is produced
by the action of ammonia and oxygen upon the crushed Lichens or weeds
as they are called. The early way of producing the colour was by
treating the Lichen with stale urine and slaked lime and this method
was followed in Scotland. Orchil is applied to wool by the simple
process of boiling it in a neutral or slightly acid solution of the
colouring matter. 3% Sulphuric acid is a useful combination. Sometimes
alum and tartar are used. It dyes slowly and evenly. It is used as a
bottom for Indigo on wool and also for compound shades on wool and
silk. For cotton and linen dyeing it is not used. It is rarely used by
itself as the colour is fugitive, but by using a mordant of tin, the
colour is made much more permanent.
Many of the British lichens produce colours by the same treatment as
is used for producing Orchil. Large quantities were manufactured in
Scotland from lichens gathered in the Shetlands and Western Highlands.
This was called Cudbear. The Species used by the Scottish Cudbear
makers were generally _Lecanora tartarea_ and _Urceolaria calcarea_;
but the following lichens also give the purple colour on treatment
with ammonia:--_Evernia prunastri_, _Lecanora pallescens_,
_Umbilicaria vellea_, _U. pustulata_, _Parmelia perlata_. Several
others give colours of similar character, but of little commercial
value. The manufacture of Archil and Cudbear from the various lichens
is simple in principle. In all cases the plant is reduced to a pulp
with water and ammonia, and the mass kept at a moderate heat and
allowed to ferment, the process taking two or three weeks to complete.
RECIPES FOR DYEING WITH LICHENS
_To dye Brown with Crotal._ For 6-1/4 lbs. (100 ozs.) of wool. Dye
baths may be used of varying strengths of from 10 to 50 ozs. of
Crotal. Raise the bath to the boil, and boil for an hour. A light tan
shade is got by first dipping the wool in a strong solution of Crotal,
a darker shade by boiling for half-an-hour, and a dark brown by
boiling for two hours or so. It is better, however, to get the shade
by altering the quantity of Crotal used. The addition of sufficient
oil of vitriol or acetic acid to make the bath slightly acid will be
an improvement (a very small quantity should be used).
_To dye red with Crotal._ Gather the lichen off the rocks--it is best
in winter. Put layers of lichen and wool alternately in a pot, fill up
with water and boil until you get the desired tint. Too much crotal
will make the wool a dark red brown, but a very pretty terra cotta red
can be got. No mordant is required.
_To dye Pink from a bright yellow Lichen_ (_Parmelia parietina_).
Mordant the wool with 3% of Bichromate of Potash, then boil with the
lichen for 1 hour or more.
_To dye Brown from Crotal._ Boil the wool with an equal quantity of
lichen for 1 or 1-1/2 hours. No mordant is required.
_To dye red purple from Cudbear and Logwood._ Dye with equal
quantities of Cudbear and Logwood, the wool having been mordanted with
chrome. A lighter colour is got by dyeing with 8 lbs. cudbear, 1/2 lb.
logwood (for 30 lbs. wool).
_To dye Yellow on Linen with the Lichen Peltigera canina_ (a large
flat lichen growing on rocks in woods). Mordant with alum (1/4 lb. to
a lb. of linen) boil for 2 hours. Then boil up with sufficient
quantity of the lichen till the desired colour is got.
LIST OF LICHENS USED BY THE PEASANTRY OF DIFFERENT COUNTRIES FOR WOOL
DYEING[D]
SHADES OF RED, PURPLE AND ORANGE
_Borrera ashney._ Chutcheleera. India.
_Conicularia aculeata._ var. _spadicea._ Brown prickly
cornicularia. Canary Islands, Highland Mountains.
_Evernia prunastri._ Ragged hoary Lichen. Stag's horn
Lichen. Found in Scotland on trees.
_Isidium corallinum._ White crottle. On rocks in Scotland.
_I. Westringii._ Westring's Isidium. Norway and Sweden.
_Lecanora tartarea._ Crotal, Crottle, Corkur, Corcir,
Korkir. Found in the Scotch Highlands and Islands, growing
on rocks; used for the manufacture of Cudbear in Leith and
Glasgow.
_L. parella._ Light Crottle, Crabs Eye Lichen. Found in
Scotland, France and England, on rocks and trees; formerly
celebrated in the South of France in the making of the dye
called Orseille d'Auvergne.
_L. haematomma._ Bloody spotted lecanora, Black lecanora.
Found in Scotland on rocks and trees.
_Lecidea sanguinaria._ Red fruited lecidea. In Scotland, on
rocks.
_Nephroma parilis._ Chocolate coloured nephroma. Scotland,
on stones. Said to dye blue.
_Parmelia caperata._ Stone Crottle, Arcel. Found in North of
Ireland and Isle of Man, on trees. Said to dye brown, orange
lemon and yellow.
_P. conspersa._ Sprinkled parmelia. Found growing on rocks
in England.
_P. omphalodes._ Black Crottle, Cork, Corker, Crostil or
Crostal (Scotch Highlands). Arcel (Ireland). Kenkerig
(Wales). Alaforel leaf (Sweden). Found on rocks, especially
Alpine, in Scotland, Ireland, Wales and Scandinavia. One of
the most extensively used dye lichens. It yields a dark
brown dye readily to boiling water, and it is easily fixed
to yarns by simple mordants. It is stated to yield a red,
crimson or purple dye.
_P. saxatilis._ Crottle, stane-raw, Staney-raw (Scotland).
Scrottyie (Shetland). Sten-laf, Sten-mossa (Norway and
Sweden). Found on rocks and stones in Scotland, Shetland,
and Scandinavia. In winter the Swedish peasantry wear home
made garments dyed purple by this Lichen. By the Shetlanders
it is usually collected in August, when it is considered
richest in colouring matter.
_Ramalina farinacea._ Mealy ramalina. On trees in England.
_R. scopulorum._ Ivory-like ramalina. Scotland, on maritime
rocks. A red dye.
_Rocella tinctoria._ Orseille. Grows in the South of France,
on the rocks by the sea.
_Solorina crocea._ Saffron yellow solorina. In Scotland, on
mountain summits. The colouring matter is ready formed and
abundant in the thallus.
_Sticta pulmonacea._ On trees.
_Umbilicaria pustulata._ Blistered umbilicaria. Found on
rocks in Norway and Sweden.
_Urceolaria calcarea._ Corkir, Limestone Urceolaria. Found
in Scotland, Western Islands, Shetland and Wales, growing on
limestone rocks.
_U. cinerea._ Greyish Urceolaria. In England, on rocks.
_U. scruposa._ Rock Urceolaria. Grows on rocks in hilly
districts in England.
_Usnea barbata._ Bearded Usnea. Pennsylvania and South
America. On old trees. Stated to dye yarn orange.
_U. florida._ Flowering Usnea. Pale greenish yellow or
reddish brown.
_U. plicata._ Plaited Usnea. On trees.
SHADES OF BROWN
_Alectoria jubata._ Horsehair Lichen, Rock hair. On fir
trees in England. Pale greenish brown.
_Borrera flavicans._ Yellow borrera. On trees in Germany.
Gamboge yellow.
_Cetraria Islandica._ Iceland moss. Iceland heaths and
hills. It yields a good brown to boiling water, but this dye
appears only to have been made available in Iceland.
_Cetraria juniperina._ En-mossa. On trees in Scandinavia.
_Evernia flavicans._ Wolf's-bane evernia. On trees in
Scandinavia. Gamboge yellow.
_Gyrophora cylindrica._ Cylindrical gyrophora. On rocks in
Iceland. Greenish brown. Also G. deusta.
_G. deusta._ Scorched-looking gyrophora. On rocks in
Scandinavia. Linnaeus states that it furnishes a paint
called "Tousch", much used in Sweden.
_Lecanora candelaria._ Ljus massa. On trees in Sweden.
_Lecidea atro-virens._ Map lichen. On rocks, Scandinavia.
_Lepraria chlorina._ Brimstone coloured lepraria.
Scandinavia, on rocks.
_L. Iolithus._ Viol-massa. Sweden, on stones. Gives stones
the appearance of blood stains.
_Parmelia omphalodes._ In Scandinavia and Scotland.
Withering asserts it yields a purple dye, paler, but more
permanent, than orchil; which is prepared in Iceland by
steeping in stale lye, adding a little salt and making it up
into balls with lime.
_P. parietina._ Common yellow wall lichen, Wag-massla
Wag-laf. England and Sweden, on trees, rocks, walls,
palings. Used to dye Easter eggs. Used in Sweden for wool
dyeing.
_P. physoides._ Dark crottle, Bjork-laf. Found in Sweden,
Scotland and Scandinavia, on rocks and trees.
_Sticta pulmonacea._ Oak lung, Lungwort, Aikraw Hazelraw,
Oak-rag, Hazel crottle, Rags. Found on trees in England,
Scotland, North of Ireland, Scandinavia. It dyes wool orange
and is said to have been used by the Herefordshire peasantry
to dye stockings brown. Some species yield beautiful saffron
or gamboge coloured dyes, e.g. _S. flava crocata, aurata_.
_S. scrobiculata._ Aik-raw, Oak rag. Found on trees in
Scotland and England.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote D: From an article by Dr. Lauder Lindsay on "The Dyeing
Properties of Lichens." _The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal_, July to
October, 1855.]