The first Napoleon, who crossed the St. Bernard with his arm

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This e-text is based on ‘The Century Illustrated Monthly Magazine,’

from June 1913. The table of contents has been added by the transcriber.

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[Illustration: TEMPLE OF ZEUS AT OLYMPIA

PAINTED FOR THE CENTURY BY JULES GUÉRIN]

Copyright, 1913, by ~The Century Co.~ All rights reserved.

TRAVEL NUMBER

~The Century Magazine~

~Vol. LXXXVI~ JUNE, 1913 ~No. 2~

CONTENTS

PAGE

~The Great St. Bernard.~ _Ernst von Hesse-Wartegg_ 161

Pictures by André Castaigne.

~The Training of a Japanese Child.~ _Frances Little_ 170

Pictures from photographs.

~Brother Leo.~ _Phyllis Bottome_ 181

Pictures by W. T. Benda.

~The Century’s After-the-war Series.~

Another View of “The Hayes-Tilden

Contest”. _George F. Edmunds_ 192

Portrait of Ex-Senator Edmunds.

~The Grand Cañon of the Colorado.~ _Joseph Pennell_ 202

Six lithographs drawn from

nature for “The Century.”

~If Richard Wagner Came Back.~ _Henry T. Finck_ 208

Portrait of Wagner from photograph.

~Portrait of Dorothy McK----.~ _Wilhelm Funk_ 211

“~Black Blood.~” _Edward Lyell Fox_ 213

Pictures by William H. Foster.

~Skirting the Balkan Peninsula.~ _Robert Hichens_

IV. Delphi and Olympia. 224

Pictures by Jules Guérin and

from photographs.

~Noosing Wild Elephants.~ _Charles Moser_ 240

Pictures from photographs.

~John Quincy Adams in Russia.~

(Unpublished letters.)

Introduction and notes by Charles

Francis Adams. Portraits of John

Quincy Adams and Madame de Staël 250

~The Century’s American Artists

Series.~

Frank W. Benson: My Daughter. 264

~Sigiriya, “The Lion’s Rock” of

Ceylon.~ _Jennie Coker Gay_ 265

Pictures by Duncan Gay.

~Noteworthy Stories of the Last

Generation.~

Belles Demoiselles Plantation. _George W. Cable_ 273

With portrait of the author,

and new pictures by W. M.

Berger.

~Colonel Watterson’s Rejoinder to

Ex-Senator Edmunds.~ _Henry Watterson_ 285

Comments on “Another View of ‘The

Hayes-Tilden Contest.’”

~A Paper of Puns.~ _Brander Matthews_ 290

Head-piece by Reginald Birch.

~T. Tembarom.~ _Frances Hodgson Burnett_

Drawings by Charles S. Chapman. 296

~Under which Flag, Ladies, Order or

Anarchy?~ _Editorial_ 309

~Newspaper Invasion of Privacy.~ _Editorial_ 310

~The Changing View of Government.~ _Editorial_ 311

~The Two-billion-dollar Congress.~ _Editorial_ 313

~On the Lady and her Book.~ _Helen Minturn Seymour_ 315

~On the Use of Hyperbole in

Advertising.~ _Agnes Repplier_ 316

~After-Dinner Stories.~

An Anecdote of McKinley. _Silas Harrison_ 319

VERSE

~Off Capri.~ _Sara Teasdale_ 223

~At the Closed Gate of Justice.~ _James D. Corrothers_ 272

~Finis.~ _William H. Hayne_ 295

~Invulnerable.~ _William Rose Benét_ 308

~A Cubist Romance.~ _Oliver Herford_ 318

Picture by Oliver Herford.

~Old Daddy Do-funny’s Wisdom Jingles.~ _Ruth McEnery Stuart_ 319

~Limericks.~:

Text and pictures by Oliver Herford.

XXIX. The Kind Armadillo. 320

THE GREAT ST. BERNARD

BY ERNST VON HESSE-WARTEGG

WITH PICTURES BY ANDRÉ CASTAIGNE

In a popular guide-book to Switzerland, it is stated that of all Alpine

passes the Great St. Bernard is the least interesting. With this view

the traveling public does not seem to agree, for the St. Bernard is

crossed every year by more people than any other pass. On an average,

twenty thousand annually arrive at the hospice on the summit, and nine

tenths of them during the short summer season, from the beginning of

July to the end of August, which means over three hundred daily.

Now, the whole district of the St. Bernard for many miles around

possesses not one of the vast caravansaries characteristic of the

picturesque mountain-tops in Switzerland,--indeed, not even a modest

inn,--where tourists may find shelter for a few days. Why, then, should

these armies of tourists invade the pass every summer, if it really

offers little of interest?

To me, who have seen almost all the passes from one end of the Alps

to the other, the trip over the Great St. Bernard was most enjoyable.

Though the scenery may not be so beautiful as that of the St. Gotthard,

for instance, it surpasses by far even that and most of the others in

wild grandeur; for nowhere else in the Alps can be found mountains

of bolder aspect and greater height. On the west, near the French

boundary, I need only mention Mont Blanc and Mont Dolent; on the east,

the glacier-covered peaks of Mont Velan, and the towering masses of the

Grand Combin.

The valley of the river Dranse, which is followed by the traveler from

Martigny, in the Rhone valley, to very near the summit, more than eight

thousand feet above the sea, is full of romantic beauty and wildness,

closed in by snow-covered mountains of fantastic shapes, their steep

slopes partly covered with dark pine forests. Nestling on the rocks or

sleeping in the valleys there are a few straggling settlements, with

heavy-visaged natives, apparently of a different race from the Swiss,

and entirely untouched by modern life. They live in tottering, wooden

houses of the quaintest shapes, dark brown with age, and with wooden

barns on stilts attached to them. Only a few villages, as Orsières,

Liddes, and Bourg St. Pierre on the Swiss side, and St. Rémy on the

Italian side, have stone houses along their narrow main thoroughfares.

During the summer months these roads are daily traversed by a motley

crowd of tourists from all parts of the world, traveling on foot, or

in private carriages or postal diligences, for the road is kept in

capital order. Many wayfarers stop at the modest inns to rest and take

a glass of _kirsch_, or even to seek shelter in the old houses when

storms spring up suddenly, blowing furiously down the valleys; or they

may repose on the rotten thresholds of the houses side by side with old

matrons working at their spinning-wheels or with young girls knitting

stockings, and converse with them in their French patois. The men are

frequently employed as guides, and all are in constant intercourse with

modern people from the great capitals of both continents, yet they do

not depart from their ancient manners and ways.

The uncommon tenacity of these mountaineers is surprising, as the

St. Bernard traffic is by no means new. True, the new carriage-road

connecting central Europe, by way of Switzerland, with Italy was

opened only in the first days of August, 1905, when the King of Italy

himself was present, together with the authorities of the neighboring

countries. But the St. Bernard has been a highway for thousands of

years; it has seen many armies in war-time and many caravans with

merchandise in times of peace. More than two hundred years before

Christ, the great Hannibal passed over it with his Carthaginian

legions; over the winding road which Hannibal had constructed Julius

Cæsar led his Roman army down the valley of the Dranse for the conquest

of Gallia and Germania. Emperor Augustus II improved and rebuilt

the road, portions of which are still seen by the side of the new

carriage-road wherever the latter has not been built on the foundation

of the Roman highway.

At the beginning of the Christian era, the summit of the pass was

crowned with a temple in honor of Jupiter, with rest-houses for

travelers. Vestiges of this temple still exist, and in the large and

well-stocked library of the present Hospice of St. Bernard the prior of

the religious order in charge showed me a number of gold and silver

coins, ex-voto figures, tablets, vessels, statuettes, and other objects

found by the priests on the temple site. Indeed, owing to its situation

on the direct geographical line between Italy and the North, the St.

Bernard has been crossed in the course of time by more people than has

any other pass.

The traveler of to-day, arriving at the hospice in a comfortable

carriage within ten hours from the nearest railway-station, and

provided with all the luxuries of modern life, can hardly picture to

himself the terrible privations of the traveler in ancient times, when

settlements were scarce. Provisions had to be carried along for many

miles to these icy regions, most of the time covered with deep snow

which obliterated every trace of roads.

On the evening of my arrival, I went to the plateau where once Jupiter

was worshiped. The small lake beyond which it is situated had still

some ice-cakes floating on its placid surface. Resting there on a

stone, my fancy enlivened this scene of solitude and desolation with

the savage soldiers of heathen times. I imagined that I heard the

cracking and screaking of heavy cart-wheels, the clattering of armor,

the clanking of spears, as the legions toiled wearisomely upward to the

beating of drums and blowing of trumpets. My eyes pictured strange,

stalwart warriors, exhausted from the arduous pull up those steep

valleys, shivering with intense cold, fainting, sinking into the deep

snow. And then an avalanche, breaking loose from the towering mountains

above, came thundering down, dispersing this glittering array, and

burying many under the soft, white, yet deadly, mass.

It was with the object of offering shelter to the weary and of rescuing

those who succumbed to the inclemencies of these forbidding heights

that in the year 962 a pious monk, Bernard, Count of Menthon, whose

home was in Savoy, near Annecy, resolved to devote his life and fortune

to the founding of a hospice on the summit of the pass. He succeeded

in persuading other monks to share with him the dreary life, and thus

founded a holy order, named to-day “Les Chanoines reguliers de St.

Augustin.” Bernard of Menthon himself, afterward canonized by the pope,

was elected first prior, and lived forty years at the hospice. His

tomb is still standing in the Italian town of Novara. According to the

keeper of the royal archives at Turin, whom I consulted on the history

of the hospice, it is first mentioned in a document in the year 1108.

[Illustration: Drawn by André Castaigne. Half-tone plate engraved by R.

Varley

AN AVALANCHE ON THE ST. BERNARD PASS]

In the Middle Ages the hospice, being of great importance in the

intercourse between the north and south of Europe, enjoyed the powerful

support and protection of the great rulers of that period, notably

the German emperors. In return for valuable services, the order was

richly endowed, and became in time exceedingly wealthy and prosperous.

At the beginning of the sixteenth century it possessed no fewer than

ninety-eight livings. The Reformation, however, ended this prosperity,

and since then various misfortunes have carried away most of its once

very large revenues. Its total income is now about eight thousand

dollars, and without the aid received from the Italian and Swiss

governments it would be impossible to offer hospitality to the large

number of tourists that come every year. As many as five hundred have

received free board and lodging in a single day.

It is to be regretted that so few visitors take notice of the

collection-box in the pretty little church. Many well able to pay for

the hospitality they receive do not give even so much as they would pay

for their entertainment in a third-rate inn. The total amount given by

tourists is only a small fraction of the actual expense incurred in

entertaining them. The present King of England, who visited the hospice

when Prince of Wales, sent a piano, and I could not help wondering

how this bulky instrument was brought up the steep mountains. Emperor

Frederick of Germany, with his consort, came in 1883, and the prior

showed me one of their valuable gifts--a volume of Thomas à Kempis,

bearing their signatures.

One must bear in mind that provisions, wood, and all other necessities

of life have to be brought up eight thousand feet from the valleys

below. For miles about the hospice there is not a tree, not a bush or

a single blade of grass, and the view from my window offered nothing

but barren rocks, bleak mountains, glaciers, and snow-fields. The mean

annual temperature is below the freezing-point, being about the same

as Spitzbergen, within the Arctic Ocean! One cannot help admiring the

little group of monks, about twelve in number, who, with an equal

number of lay brothers and servants, live here, in this highest human

habitation of Europe, summer and winter, year after year, till they

die. They do not wear the monk’s capouch, but the ordinary black

sacerdotal robe, with a white cord falling from the neck as a special

distinction.

Their sufferings are sometimes intense. The climate is so severe, and

their duties are so arduous, that their constitutions would soon be

broken down if they were not allowed to recuperate temporarily at their

house in Martigny, their places being taken by other members of this

brave and devoted brotherhood.

On the St. Bernard summit the seasons are unknown. Winter is, so

to speak, perpetual, without spring or autumn or summer, the only

indication of our warm seasons being the melting of the snow, which

sometimes drifts about the three tall stone buildings to a height of

forty feet. The cold is often twenty degrees below zero Fahrenheit and

has been in one instance twenty-nine degrees. When I stayed at the

hospice early in August, the lake behind it was frozen over during the

night, and the monks told me that there have been years when the ice on

its surface did not melt.

Under these conditions, I was not surprised to find among the occupants

of the hospice mostly young men, only one of them being over fifty, and

he had spent twenty consecutive years on the St. Bernard. The hardest

labors of these pious men are during the winter months, notably in

November and February, when numerous poor laborers from Italy venture

to cross in search of work. Unfamiliar with the hardships and dangers

they have to face, they ascend from Aosta over St. Rémy, plodding

wearily through the deep snow, which obliterates all traces of the

road, sometimes covering even the telegraph-poles. At last their

strength gives out, or they are buried under an avalanche, or they lose

their way and cannot proceed from sheer exhaustion. Those who do not

perish owe their lives to the zeal of the monks and the alertness of

the famous dogs of St. Bernard.

Day after day all the monks are out on their beat through the “Valley

of Death” on the north side opening immediately below the hospice, and

the steep snow-fields to the south, each accompanied by a servant and

a dog. They search the surroundings, where every dell, every rock is

familiar to them, with powerful field-glasses. Breaks or dark spots are

detected at once on the white surface, but the surest and never-failing

discoverers of unfortunate victims are the dogs. Their extraordinary

fine scent indicates to them the exact direction in which it is

necessary to search, and the men follow on snow-shoes. Arrived at the

supposed spot, the dogs begin to bark and to scratch in the snow, the

men take to their shovels, and soon the poor wayfarer is discovered.

If life has fled from him, the body is carried up to the hospice and

placed in the little low, desolate stone hut standing at a short

distance from the buildings, the abode of the dead. In this “morgue”

rest the victims of the Alps till their bodies crumble to ashes. There

is no other way of disposing of the dead, since for miles about the

hospice not enough soil can be found to furnish a grave.

[Illustration: Drawn by André Castaigne

INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL IN THE HOSPICE]

At the time of my visit, only one body of the preceding winter was

lying among the remains of the victims of former years. The others who

had been found had been restored to life.

Many thousands have been rescued from certain death, principally

owing to the cleverness of the dogs, carefully trained to their work.

According to the register kept at the hospice, these dogs, originally

a cross between Newfoundland and Pyrenean, were employed first in the

fifteenth century, and the present breed is undoubtedly descended from

them. To preserve it pure, several dogs are also kept at the two other

settlements of the brotherhood, the Simplon hospice and Martigny. The

expediency of this is shown by the accident of 1825, when nearly all

the dogs at the St. Bernard hospice, together with three lay brothers,

perished in a terrible avalanche on the Swiss slope near the present

“Cantine de Proz,” the highest inn on the way to the hospice, kept

by the Swiss Government as a postal station. Only two or three dogs

survived, and they perpetuated the race.

Now there are about fifteen dogs at the hospice. They are objects of

much petting on the part of travelers, especially ladies, to which they

indulgently submit. In appearance they differ considerably from what

we picture them to be. They are much smaller than the St. Bernard dog

of other countries, but heavier-set and stronger. The hair is white,

coarse, and tight to the skin, with large yellow or reddish-brown

spots, the chest and the lower part of the body being always white.

The long tail is heavy and shaggy, the neck short-set and uncommonly

strong, carrying a large head, with the muzzle short and broad.

The front teeth are mostly visible, and the dogs would look rather

ferocious without the intelligent and withal docile expression of their

large, bright eyes. Many of them have been reproduced on postal cards,

for sale in the large reception-room, one of the few rooms furnished

with a stove. The prior, who is also Swiss postmaster, told me that

on the average one thousand postal cards, mostly with pictures of the

dogs, are daily sent “with hearty greetings” to all parts of the world.

But in the “season,” as many as fifteen hundred have been mailed in a

single afternoon, especially when snow-storms or rain keep the tourists

indoors with nothing to do.

[Illustration: Drawn by André Castaigne

A ST. BERNARD DOG]

The best type of a St. Bernard dog was famous Bary, who, after saving

thirty-nine lives, was unfortunately shot by an English traveler he was

trying to rescue, who mistook him for a wolf. His stuffed skin is now

in the museum at Bern. Since then there has always been a “Bary” among

the dogs. The present dog of that name has already saved three lives,

while Pallas and Diana have saved two each.

St. Bernard dogs, imported mostly from England in recent years,

have become decidedly popular in America. They are chiefly of the

long-haired kind, much larger and with rather flatter heads and longer

muzzles than the dogs at the St. Bernard hospice. Nevertheless, they

are genuine St. Bernards, and are descended from those originally

brought to England from Switzerland for Lord Dashwood, about one

hundred years ago.

In their home country this breed of dogs is by no means confined to the

St. Bernard mountain. Raised in most Alpine valleys, they have become,

so to speak, the national dog of Switzerland, and are foremost in

public favor. While the long-haired type prevails in the lower cantons,

nothing but the short-haired variety are employed at the hospice, the

former type being unfitted for the peculiar mountain work. Enormous

snowfalls in spring and autumn force them sometimes to dig their way

under the snow for two or three days; on occasions they remain in the

icy fields for a week or two, returning to the hospice reduced to mere

skeletons. The coat of the long-haired dogs dries much slower, and the

dripping from the fur congeals, causing rheumatism and other ailments

and making them soon unfit for their work.

[Illustration: Drawn by André Castaigne

THE ST. BERNARD HOSPICE]

The general belief that the original St. Bernard race died out long ago

is unfounded. There can be no doubt that the present dogs are descended

from those kept at the hospice in the Middle Ages, crossed with Danish

bulldogs and Pyrenean dogs about five centuries ago, that they might

inherit size and strength from the former and intelligence and keen

scent from the latter. St. Bernard, the founder of the hospice, is

represented in ancient pictures accompanied by a large white dog. The

insecurity of the much frequented route between Italy and the North in

early times caused the monks to keep dogs for their own protection,

till their usefulness for life-saving purposes made them indispensable

companions.

[Illustration: Drawn by André Castaigne. Half-tone plate engraved by H.

C. Merrill

A BAND OF GIPSIES TRAVELING ALONG THE ST. BERNARD PASS]

Unfortunately, most of the early documents in regard to the dogs were

destroyed by fire, but the existing traditions of the antiquity of the

race are confirmed by the escutcheon of an ancient Swiss family which

I discovered in the archives of the city of Zurich. Four families

of the fourteenth century have dogs as ornaments of the escutcheon

helmet. They are Stubenweg, Aichelberg, Hailigberg, and the counts

of Toggenburg, the latter famous in history and still flourishing

in Austria. The escutcheons are most carefully painted, and show

four distinct and clearly defined types of dogs. The type over the

escutcheon of the family of Hailigberg shows a striking resemblance

to the St. Bernard dog of to-day, with all the characteristic signs.

Mountains crowned by hospices used to be called sacred mountains or

Hailigberg (present style Heiligberg) during the Middle Ages, and from

this it may safely be deducted that the knights of Hailigberg, took the

picture of a hospice dog for their helmet ornament.

For ages the St. Bernard dogs have been trained for their service in a

peculiar manner: one old and one young dog are sent together daily down

the Valley of Death toward the nearest human habitation; two others on

the south side toward St. Rémy, their footprints in the snow indicating

to lost travelers with unfailing certainty the exact line of the road

buried under the snow. The younger dogs are taught by the older ones

to show to travelers the way to the hospice by barking and jumping and

running ahead of them toward the summit of the pass. If they happen

to find a poor half-frozen victim, they try to restore animation by

licking the hands and face. Then they hasten back to the hospice and

announce their discovery by barking.

Great credit is due to the Kynological Society of Switzerland for the

preservation, improvement, and popularization of the hospice dogs in

their pure type. In the latter part of the last century the English

type, as described above, threatened to become generally established as

the correct one. At an international Kynological Congress convened by

that society in Zurich in 1887, the characteristic marks of the pure

hospice type were laid down and acknowledged by the delegates of all

countries, England included. In 1885 the first pure St. Bernard dogs

were introduced into Germany by Prince Albrecht of Solms-Braunfels, and

as they became very popular in a short time, a St. Bernard Club was

organized in Munich in 1891 for the express purpose of improving the

St. Bernard breed by organizing an exposition with competent judges,

and publishing annually a book of genealogy.

The first Napoleon, who crossed the St. Bernard with his army, cavalry,

artillery, and all, between the fifteenth and twenty-first of May,

1800, was very fond of these dogs and kept some in his room while

resting at the hospice. Near the entrance of the largest building,

erected in the seventeenth century, there is a big bell, rung by

travelers to announce their arrival. Opposite the bell a large

marble tablet commemorates the passage of Napoleon, dedicated by the

government of the then republic, now the Swiss canton of Valais. His

army was the last to cross the St. Bernard, and in the place of armies

of soldiers, those of tourists invade the historic pass every year.

They are most numerous in August, for the snow rarely melts before

July and begins to fall again early in September, to stay till the

following July. The poor priests are then left to themselves for about

ten months, when the next summer’s sun makes the carriage-road again

practicable.

The founder of the hospice, with its brotherhood, has at last received

a monument, which he well deserved. His statue was unveiled during the

summer of 1905, and stands on the spot which the many thousands have

had to pass who, after being rescued by his successors, have resumed

their journey to the valleys below and to renewed life.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

THE TRAINING OF A JAPANESE CHILD

BY FRANCES LITTLE

Author of “The Lady of the Decoration,” “The Lady and Sada San,” etc.

The stork has no vacation in Japan, neither does he sleep; and if he

rests, the time and place are known of no man. On the stroke of the

hour, nay, of the quarter, he is faithfully at his work distributing

impartially among rich and poor small bits of humanity. He may be a

wise bird, but if he thinks by the swiftness of his wings to find a

home beneath roof of straw or palace tile unprepared for his coming, he

is mistaken. He will discover that he has failed utterly to comprehend

the joy of the mother to be. A childless woman is of no value in a

land where the perpetuation of the family name is the most vital law

prescribed in its religious and moral teachings. For a Japanese woman,

therefore, the pinnacle of desire is reached when the white bird taps

at her door and lays its precious bundle in her outstretched arms. For

a time at least she has been able to forget the great terror of her

life, divorce, and to make ready for the coming of the child with high

hope and tender joy.

Only two little garments are prepared previously. For the inside, a

tiny kimono of bright yellow, the color supposed to give health and

strength to the body; and for an outer covering, a coat of red, which

color means congratulation. Until the sex of the baby is known, the

wardrobe is thus limited as a matter of economy in time and cloth. If

a boy, he has the sole right to every shade of blue. To the girl fall

the softest pinks and reds. Whichever the sex, every available member

of the family lends a willing hand to the busy task of cutting and

stitching into many shapes the flowered cloth necessary to decorate the

small body.

The tiny wardrobe complete, the household turns its attention to the

preparation of the feast with which to make merry and give thanks to

the gods for so good a gift as a little child, whether it be boy or

girl. The house is swept and garnished. Out in the kitchen, maids run

hither and thither, hurrying the boiling pot, cleansing the already

spotless rice, and scampering to bring the best wine. It is glad

service. The happiness in the coming of the baby is shared by everybody

from the parents to the water-coolie. Hence the eagerness with which

the little house shrine is decorated and offerings of food and sake set

before the benign old image who is responsible for this great favor.

For days preparations go joyfully on, and though the small guest cannot

indulge, a special table is set for him at the feast given in his

honor, when neighbors and friends assemble to offer congratulations

and presents. Later, each present must be acknowledged by the parents

sending one in return.

[Illustration: JAPANESE GIRLS PLAYING THEIR FAVORITE GAME, _ONIGOTO_]

[Illustration: SUPPER-TIME]

[Illustration: DRAWING ON A NEW WHITE SHOJI]

The baby is excused from being present at the festival, but custom

demands that no other engagement interfere with the shaving of his head

on the third day. In the olden days styles in hair-cutting were as

rigidly adhered to as the wearing of a samurai’s sword, but progress

must needs tamper even with the down on a baby’s head. Now the fashion

has lost much of its quaintness, and is mostly uniform. The sides and

back of the head are shaved smooth, while from the crown a fringe is

left to sprout like the long petals of a ragged chrysanthemum. The

length and seriousness of the hair-cutting ceremony depend upon the

self-control of the young gentleman. Regardless of conduct, however, or

of the cost to the nervous system, certain fixed rules are enforced,

which are virtually the only training the child receives in early years.

After the little stranger, all shaven and shorn, is returned to his

private apartments, the elders of the family consult on the grave

matter of choosing a name for him. Often the naming of the baby is a

simple matter, the father or grandfather speaking before the company

the name of some famous man, if the child is a boy, or of some favorite

flower, if it is a girl. For girls, _Hana_, flower, _Yuki_, snow,

_Ai_, love, are the favorites of parents with a poetical strain. The

sterner country-folk choose for their daughters, _Matsu_, pine, _Take_,

bamboo (the bamboo joints are exact; hence the exactness of virtue),

_Ume_, plum, since the plum bears both cold and snow bravely. For boys,

_Ichiro_, first boy, _Toshio_, smart, _Iwao_, strong, and _Isamu_,

brave, are very popular.

Where belief is strong in the power of a name, the family, in holiday

dress, often assembles in a large room. Each writes a name upon a slip

of paper and lays it reverently before the house shrine. From the group

a very young child is chosen and led before this shrine, and the fate

of the name is decided by the small hand which reaches out for a slip.

Though it is a festive occasion, the selection of a name is made with

a seriousness worthy the election of a bishop. Many believe devoutly

that this rite influences the baby’s entire future, and therefore

the one whose slip is chosen incurs from the moment of choice great

responsibility for the child’s welfare.

The next great event in the baby’s existence is on the thirtieth day,

when he is taken to the temple to be offered to the god that rules

over that particular village or city. Dressed in his best suit of

clothes, he is strapped to the back of his mother or nurse, with his

body wrapped almost to suffocation, and usually with his head dangling

from side to side with no protection for face or eyes. Why all Japanese

babies are not blind is one of the secrets of nature’s provision. With

tender women for mothers and affectionate servants for nurses, it is

strange that the little face is seldom shielded from the direct rays of

the sun or the piercing winds of winter. Possibly it is a training for

physical endurance that later in life is a part of his education.

Arrived at the temple, the child is presented to the priest. This

dignitary, with shaven head and clad in a purple gown, reads very

solemnly a special prayer to the god whose image, enshrined in gilt

and ebony, rests within the deep shadows of the temple. He asks his

care and protection for the helpless little creature that lies before

him. At the end of the reading the priest shakes a _gohei_ to and fro

over the child. A _gohei_ resembles nothing so much as a paper feather

duster. Its fluffy whiteness is supposed to represent the pure spirit

of the god, and through some mysterious agency a part of this spirit is

transferred to the child by the vigorous shaking.

For a few more coins, further protection can be purchased for the

little wayfarer. The guaranty of his success and happiness comes in two

small paper amulets on which the priest has drawn curious characters

decipherable only to the priest and the god. Both amulets are given

to the mother, who, with the baby on her back, trots home on her high

wooden geta, or clogs, her face aglow with the contentment possible

only to one whose faith in prayer and priest is sublime. One amulet,

carefully wrapped with the cuttings of the first hair and with the

name, is laid away safely in the house shrine, that the god may not

forget. The other is carried in a gay little bag of colored crape,

which is tied to the sash of the child; for it is believed that it will

ward off sickness and hold all evil spirits at bay.

It must be with a sigh of relief that the baby comes to this stage of

his existence. The numerous rites necessary to a fair start on life’s

highway have been conscientiously performed, the watchful care of the

spirits invoked. Now it is his sole business to kick and grow and feed

like any small healthy animal, to be served as a young prince and to

be adored as a young god. He is the pivot on which the whole household

turns. Often, in the soft shadows of evening, on the paper doors of a

Japanese house is silhouetted a picture where the child is the center

about which the family is grouped in the great act of adoration. It is

a bit of inner life that finds a tender response in the heart of any

beholder.

[Illustration: “SEEKING SOME OBJECT ON WHICH TO BESTOW HIS ADORABLE

SMILE”]

[Illustration: FERTILE SOIL FOR MISCHIEF]

The attitude of the usual family is that obedience is not to be

expected of one so young, consequently nobody is disappointed, and

the effect on the child is telling. He quickly learns his power, and

becomes in turn the trainer and the ruler of the household. In fact, he

is a small king, with only a soft ring of dark hair for a crown, and

a chop-stick in his chubby fist for a scepter. His lightest frown or

smile is a command to all the house, from the poodle with the ingrown

nose to the bent old grandmother. But more willing subjects never bent

before a king of maturer growth. Father and mother, with a train of

relatives, yield glad obedience and stand ever ready for action at the

merest suggestion of a wish.

Alas! for the tried and true theories on early training that have

held for generations in other countries! Alas! for the scores of

learned volumes on child culture! Useless the work of the greatest

psychologists, who sound grave warning as to the direful results should

one fail to observe certain hard-and-fast rules in the training of mind

and body. Grant a few months to a fat, well-fed Japanese baby, and with

one wave of his pink heels he will kick into thin air every tested

theory that scholarly men have grown gray in proving. He snaps in twain

the old saw, “As the twig is bent,” and sends to eternal oblivion

that oft-repeated legend, “Give me a child till its seventh year, and

neither friend nor foe can change his tendencies.” Even the promise of

old, “Children, obey your parents,” loses its value as a recipe for

long life when applied to the baby citizen of old Nippon. It is a rare

exception if he obeys. He lives neither by rule nor regulation, eats

when, where, and what he pleases, then cuddles down to sleep in peace.

[Illustration: “SPECIAL LESSONS FOR THE YOUNG IN HOW TO BOW”]

To the specialist, one such ill-regulated day in a baby’s life

would augur a morning after with digestion in tatters and a ragged

temper. He does not take into account the strange mental and physical

contradictions of the race. Unchecked, the baby has been permitted to

shatter every precept of health, but he awakens as happy as a young

kitten. Fresh, sweet, and wholesome, he crawls from his soft nest of

comfortables and goes about seeking some object on which to bestow his

adorable smile. He is ready to thrive on another lawless day.

There is a mistaken, but popular, belief that a Japanese baby

never cries. There is really no reason why he should. Replete with

nourishment and rarely denied a wish, he blossoms like a wild rose on

the sunny side of the hedge, as sweet and as unrestrained. His life is

full of rich and varied interests. From his second day on earth, tied

safely to his mother’s back under an overcoat made for two, he finds

amusement for every waking hour in watching the passing show. He is the

honored guest at every family picnic. No matter what the hour or the

weather, he is the active member in all that concerns the household

amusements or work. From his perch he participates in the life of the

neighborhood, and is a part of all the merry festivals that turn the

streets into fairy-land. Later, his playground is the gay market-place

or the dim old temples.

[Illustration: “UNDER AN OVERCOAT MADE FOR TWO”]

Up to this time the child has had no suggestion of real training. His

innate deftness in the art of imitation has taught him much. Continual

contact with a wide-awake world has effectively quickened the growth

of his brain, but the strings that have held him steadily to his

mother’s back have stunted the growth of his body. The result is that

when the time comes for that wonderful first day in the kindergarten,

into the play-room often toddles a self-confident youngster whose legs

refuse to coöperate when he makes his quaint bow, but whose keen brain

and correspondingly deft hand work small miracles with blocks and

paint-brush.

In Japan only a blind child could be insensible to color, after long

days under the pink mist of the cherry-blossoms and the crimson

glory of the maples, in the sunny green and yellow fields, or with

mountain slopes of wild azalea for a romping-place and a wonderful

sky of blue for a cover. By inheritance and environment he is an

artist in the use of color. Form, too, is as easy, for when crude toys

have failed to please, it is his privilege to build ships, castles,

gunboats, and temples with every conceivable household article from the

spinning-wheel to the family rice-bucket.

His instinct for play is strong, and after his legs grow steady he

quickly masters games, and to his own satisfaction he can sing any song

without tune or words. In the kindergarten he finds at first new joys

in a play paradise of which he is, as at home, the ruler. Alas! for the

swift coming of grief! For the first time in his life his will clashes

with law, and for the first time he meets defeat, though he rises to

conquer with all his fighting blood on fire. The struggle is swift and

fierce, then behold the mystery of a small Oriental! After the first

encounter, and often before the tears of passion have dried, he bends

to authority, and with only occasional lapses soon becomes a devotee

of the thing he has so bitterly fought. Henceforth _kisoku_, or law,

becomes his meat and drink, the very foundation of living.

[Illustration: ARRANGING FLOWERS]

[Illustration: CHILDREN IN A CHRYSANTHEMUM ARBOR

F · C · G]

It is difficult to say whether this sudden change of heart comes from

an inherited belief in the divine right of rulers or is the first

cropping-out of that Eastern fatalism forcibly expressed in the word

“Shikataganai” (“There is no help for it”). A partial explanation might

be found in the attitude of most Japanese parents to the teacher in

both kindergarten and school. By some strange reasoning they argue

that it is the teacher’s business in life to train children; therefore

from its earliest days the teacher is held before the child as a power

from whose word there is no appeal. Frequently a mother says to her

unmanageable offspring:

“What will happen when the _sensei_ [teacher] hears of your rudeness?”

or, “I shall speak to your teacher to command you to obey me.” Often

the appeal is made direct to the teacher: “My daughter does not bow

correctly,” or “She is neglectful of duty. Please remind her.”

The value of using the teacher as a prop or commander-in-chief lies in

the fact that most of the profession realize their responsibility and

earnestly endeavor to live up to the trust. They seek to share every

experience of the pupil’s life, and are faithful leaders to the highest

ideals they know.

There is a tendency in most Japanese kindergartens to make of them

elementary schools in which much of the spirit of play is lost in an

effort on the part of the teachers to give formal instruction. The

inclination is to fit the child to the rule; to follow to the last

detail a written law, at the sacrifice of spontaneity. Formality finds

steady resistance in the buoyancy of youth; and how childhood will have

its fling, refusing to wear the shackles till it must, is expressed in

the despair of a little Japanese teacher who had worked in vain to make

an unessential point in posture: “I have the great trouble. They just

_will_ kick up their heels spiritually [spiritedly].”

In addition to the gifts, games, and songs usually found in the

kindergartens, there is a specific training in patriotism, loyalty,

and physical endurance by the constant repetition of certain stories

emphasizing these virtues that have been told from generation to

generation. Stories of brave men and women are dramatized. Day after

day the child takes part in these simple plays. So earnest is the

acting, so unwavering are the ideals presented at this very early age,

that the mind is saturated with the principle of the sacrifice of the

individual for the good of the whole.

In all circumstances, stress is laid upon outward courtesy, regardless

of time or consequences. The key-note in the mimic plays is kindness

to a fallen foe. Often there is an organized band of tiny Red Cross

workers, who in full uniform are ever on the alert in the games to

render quick aid to the supposedly wounded. The play is very real and

sincere, and it fosters a spirit of kindness and sympathy never wholly

lost in later years.

From babyhood the diminutive subject hears stories of his glorious

ruler; but sometimes it is in the kindergarten that he is trained to

perform his first great act of reverence to the throne in bowing before

the picture of the emperor. It is a ceremony that touches deeply the

most skeptical heart. On certain days groups of little children, many

still unsteady on their feet, dressed in gay holiday clothes, come

before the pictured image and pay homage to his Majesty by a low,

reverent bow. It is like a flower-garden bending before the greater

brilliancy of the sun. It is the tribute of innocence to power, and no

sovereign lives who would not be a better man for having seen it.

As the first day in the kindergarten is wonderful, so to the child

is the last. He is leaving babyhood behind, and half a day is barely

sufficient for the imposing ceremonies. For weeks he has been patiently

drilled. At the proper hour, with the precision of a mechanical doll

and the dignity of a field-marshal, he graciously accepts from the hand

of the teacher a roll of parchment only slightly shorter than himself.

It is his certificate of graduation, stamped with a large seal, which

inspires a deeper joy than comes later with the Order of the Rising Sun.

The transition from the kindergarten to the primary grade is

accomplished easily, and as the pupil is never supposed or expected to

take the initiative, he has only to follow where he is led. A Japanese

child is as responsive as are the strings of a samisen to the fingers

of a skilled musician, and the leader has only to touch the notes to

create the harmony desired.

During the period of elementary school, the training for boys and

girls is much the same except in special cases when very young boys

are instructed in fencing and jiu-jutsu. In these first years it is a

sharing of all experiences, and the girls pluckily take their chances

in the rough-and-tumble games with the boys. Then comes the parting

of the ways. The sign-post for each points to a difference in school

and subjects. For the boys, the road leads to the sterner things of

life. Every step of the girls’ path is trained for the inevitable

end--marriage. Whatever the future, it never yields--to the girl,

at least--the same golden hours of freedom and equal right to joy

and pleasure as in the glory days of youth. Every boy in Japan is a

prospective soldier or sailor, every girl, a wife; and a training

toward the end best fitting each for the duties involved is the

principal aim of the carefully planned curriculum. In all grades the

teaching is en masse; individual attention is rare.

From the first year of the primary course, through every grade,

the study of morals heads the list. This rather formidable subject

is presented to the very youthful in a most attractive way. Large

pictures are shown illustrating in a charming manner the virtues to be

emphasized. The teacher tells a set story. It is short, but so dramatic

is the manner of telling it, so alluring the trick of hand and voice,

the child’s interest is held as if by magic. The subjects of these

early moral lessons are the “Teacher,” the “Flag,” “Attitude.” Later,

family relations are studied; as, for instance, that of father and

mother, grandparents, etc.

Training in pronunciation and simple lessons in drawing are included

in the first year, with manual work for the boys. The girls begin

preparation for their calling with the first principles of sewing and

the first stitches of crocheting or knitting. In the latter part of the

year practice begins in writing the _kana_, gradually intermixed with

the Chinese ideographs. There are many thousands of these characters,

and they are usually difficult. Necessarily the first steps are simple.

The awkward little fist must be trained to lightness and poise of

brush, delicacy and sureness in touch, for one false stroke in the

intricate structure brings grief. Ignorant of the difficulties in store

for him, the child begins his task merrily, delighted with the lines,

big and bold at first, which resemble funny pictures more than an

alphabet. He practises on everything at hand, from the fresh sand on

the playground to the nearest new, white shoji.

A system of calisthenics, too, is begun early with the child, and

only the unconquerable grace of childhood saves it from a permanent

stiffening of bone and muscle. Happily, studies and gymnastics are

interspersed with generous hours for free play. In all the training

of Japanese children a great deal of outdoor life is planned. There

are historical excursions, geographical excursions for practical

instruction, and jolly ones merely for pleasure, when with a luncheon

of cold rice and pickled plum tied in a _furoshiki_, or handkerchief,

everybody scampers away to the river or mountain for a long happy day.

Every year at school means increased hours and more difficult studies.

Added to these long periods are special lessons for the young in how

to bow, how to stand, how to enter a room, how to lower the eyes,

the placing of each finger on a book when reading, and endless other

regulations. These rules are published in a text-book for the teacher,

who is expected to drill them into the student to the minutest detail.

It seems folly to expect anything from such training but a group of

automata; but underlying this fixed formality is an air of controlled

freedom that is really the foundation of the tremendous respect for

law cherished by the entire nation. Nor is it to be imagined that

continuous training in repression means permanent suppression of high

spirits. This light-hearted race takes joy in the simplest pleasures,

and the imp of mischief finds fertile soil in the brain of any healthy

boy or girl.

During these years the hand of discipline is lightly laid in the home.

The attitude of father and mother is kindly indulgent, and punishments,

if any, cause neither pain nor inconvenience. Current topics involving

the welfare of the country and intimate matters of family life are

freely discussed in the child’s presence. At an early age he absorbs

much information, both wholesome and other. But whatever else may be

neglected in his training, so insistently is held before the heir

day by day the requirements necessary as a man to bear the honors of

the family name, it often works something of a miracle in regulating

conduct.

Next in reverence for the emperor is veneration for ancestors. There

is one form of entertainment and instruction in the home which as an

educative factor plays a large and delightful part in the life of

the children. In the evenings, after the books have been put away,

they gather around the glowing hibachi to hear the grandfather or

grandmother weave the nondescript tales of gods and goddesses, of

loyal, wise, and brave men. If any deed of the day calls for emphasis,

it is skilfully marked by a special story cleverly worded by the aged

narrator. Thus reward or punishment is effectively recited rather than

administered.

The Century Illustrated Monthly Magazine (June 1913) Vol. LXXXVI. New Series: Vol. LXIV. May to October, 1913 · 第 1 / 20 段