CHAPTER IX.

EUROPE.

THE LAY OF A GOLDEN GOOSE.

Long ago in a poultry yard

One dull November morn,

Beneath a motherly soft wing

A little goose was born.

Who straightway peeped out of the shell

To view the world beyond,

Longing at once to sally forth

And paddle in the pond.

"Oh! be not rash," her father said,

A mild Socratic bird;

Her mother begged her not to stray

With many a warning word.

But little goosey was perverse,

And eagerly did cry,

"I've got a lovely pair of wings,

Of course I ought to fly."

In vain parental cacklings,

In vain the cold sky's frown,

Ambitious goosey tried to soar,

But always tumbled down.

The farm-yard jeered at her attempts,

The peacocks screamed, "Oh fie!

You're only a domestic goose,

So don't pretend to fly."

Great cock-a-doodle from his perch

Crowed daily loud and clear,

"Stay in the puddle, foolish bird,

That is your proper sphere."

The ducks and hens said, one and all,

In gossip by the pool,

"Our children never play such pranks;

My dear, that fowl's a fool."

The owls came out and flew about,

Hooting above the rest,

"No useful egg was ever hatched

From transcendental nest."

Good little goslings at their play

And well-conducted chicks

Were taught to think poor goosey's flights

Were naughty, ill-bred tricks.

_They_ were content to swim and scratch,

And not at all inclined

For any wild-goose chase in search

Of something undefined.

Hard times she had as one may guess,

That young aspiring bird,

Who still from every fall arose

Saddened but undeterred.

She knew she was no nightingale,

Yet spite of much abuse,

She longed to help and cheer the world,

Although a plain gray goose.

She could not sing, she could not fly,

Nor even walk with grace,

And all the farm-yard had declared

A puddle was her place.

But something stronger than herself

Would cry, "Go on, go on!

Remember, though an humble fowl,

You're cousin to a swan."

So up and down poor goosey went,

A busy, hopeful bird.

Searched many wide unfruitful fields,

And many waters stirred.

At length she came unto a stream

Most fertile of all _Niles_,

Where tuneful birds might soar and sing

Among the leafy isles.

Here did she build a little nest

Beside the waters still,

Where the parental goose could rest

Unvexed by any _bill_.

And here she paused to smooth her plumes,

Ruffled by many plagues;

When suddenly arose the cry,

"This goose lays golden eggs."

At once the farm-yard was agog;

The ducks began to quack;

Prim Guinea fowls relenting called,

"Come back, come back, come back."

Great chanticleer was pleased to give

A patronizing crow,

And the contemptuous biddies clucked,

"I wish my chicks did so."

The peacocks spread their shining tails,

And cried in accents soft,

"We want to know you, gifted one,

Come up and sit aloft."

Wise owls awoke and gravely said,

With proudly swelling breasts,

"Rare birds have always been evoked

From transcendental nests!"

News-hunting turkeys from afar

Now ran with all thin legs

To gobble facts and fictions of

The goose with golden eggs.

But best of all the little fowls

Still playing on the shore,

Soft downy chicks and goslings gay,

Chirped out, "Dear Goose, lay more."

But goosey all these weary years

Had toiled like any ant,

And wearied out she now replied,

"My little dears, I can't.

"When I was starving, half this corn

Had been of vital use,

Now I am surfeited with food

Like any Strasbourg goose."

So to escape too many friends,

Without uncivil strife,

She ran to the Atlantic pond

And paddled for her life.

Soon up among the grand old Alps

She found two blessed things,

The health she had so nearly lost,

And rest for weary limbs.

But still across the briny deep

Couched in most friendly words,

Came prayers for letters, tales, or verse,

From literary birds.

Whereat the renovated fowl

With grateful thanks profuse,

Took from her wing a quill and wrote

This lay of a Golden Goose.

BEX, SWITZERLAND, August, 1870.

The year 1869 was less fruitful in work than the preceding one. Miss

Alcott spent the winter in Boston and the summer in Concord. She was

ill and very tired, and felt little inclined for mental effort.

"Hospital Sketches," which had been first published by Redpath, was

now republished by Roberts Brothers, with the addition of six shorter

"Camp and Fireside Stories." The interest of the public in either the

author or the work had not lessened; for two thousand copies of the

book in its new form were sold the first week. In her weary condition

she finds her celebrity rather a burden than a pleasure, and says in

her journal:--

People begin to come and stare at the Alcotts. Reporters haunt

the place to look at the authoress, who dodges into the woods _à

la_ Hawthorne, and won't be even a very small lion.

Refreshed my soul with Goethe, ever strong and fine and alive.

Gave S. E. S. $200 to invest. What richness to have a little not

needed!

Miss Alcott had some pleasant refreshment in travelling during the

summer.

_July._-- ... Spent in Canada with my cousins, the Frothinghams,

at their house at Rivière du Loup,--a little village on the St.

Lawrence, full of queer people. Drove, read, and walked with the

little ones. A pleasant, quiet time.

_August._-- ... A month with May at Mt. Desert. A gay time, and a

little rest and pleasure before the old pain and worry began

again.

Made up $1,000 for S. E. S. to invest. Now I have $1,200 for a

rainy day, and no debts. With that thought I can bear neuralgia

gayly.

In the autumn the whole family went to Boston, the father and mother

staying with Mrs. Pratt; while Louisa and her sister May, "the

workers," occupied rooms in Pinckney Street. Not being well enough to

do much new work, Louisa began using up her old stories, and found

that the little women "helped their rejected sisters to good places

where once they went a-begging." In January, 1870, she suffered from

loss of voice, for which she tried "heroic treatment" under a

distinguished physician. She got well enough to write a little, and in

February wrote the conclusion to "The Old-fashioned Girl," which was

published in March. She says:--

I wrote it with left hand in a sling, one foot up, head aching,

and no voice. Yet, as the book is funny, people will say, "Didn't

you enjoy doing it?" I often think of poor Tom Hood as I

scribble, rather than lie and groan. I certainly earn my living

by the sweat of my brow.

The book does not reveal this condition; for nothing could be fresher,

brighter, and more wholesome than the heroine Polly, many of whose

adventures are drawn from the author's own experience. She steps out

of her usual surroundings into the fashionable life of the city, but

betrays her own want of sympathy with it. The book has always been

very popular.

In 1870, the success of "Hospital Sketches" and the continued receipts

from "Little Women" put their author in a pecuniary position which

enabled her to go abroad for the rest and refreshment which she sorely

needed. The younger sister was invited to go by her friend A. B. on

condition that Louisa would accompany them. This journey was very free

and independent. She has given an account--somewhat travestied

certainly, but very true to the general facts--in "Shawl Straps,"

although the reader would hardly suppose the old lady described in

that book had not yet reached her fortieth year. These sketches were

arranged after her return, at the request of Mrs. Stowe, for the

"Christian Union," and were published in a book forming one volume of

"Aunt Jo's Scrap-Bag" in 1872.

Fortunately we have many of Louisa's original letters preserved in her

father's copies, which have escaped the destruction of her

correspondence. With some extracts from her journals, they give a

sufficient account of this journey. In many respects the contrast to

her former visit to Europe is most pleasant. She has now become

pecuniarily independent by her own exertions, and has a popular

reputation which brings her welcome and recognition wherever she goes.

But she has paid a heavy price for these gains. Her health has become

seriously shattered. The long application to writing, sometimes even

for fourteen hours a day,--a pressure of excitement which kept her

from eating and sleeping,--added to sorrow and anxiety, have told upon

her nerves and strength, and she is often unfitted to enjoy the

pleasures which are open to her. Yet her journal and letters are as

full of wit and humor as ever; and she laid up stores of pleasant

memories which lasted her through life. Readers of "Shawl Straps" will

recognize the originals of those bright sketches in the series of

letters from Dinan.

_Second Trip to Europe._

_April._--... On the first day of the month (fit day for _my_

undertaking I thought) May and I went to N. Y. to meet A. B.,

with John for escort. Every one very kind. Thirty gifts, a

parting ball among our house-mates, and a great cake.

Half-a-dozen devoted beings at the station to see us off. But I

remember only Father and Mother as they went away the day before,

leaving the two ambitious daughters to sail away, perhaps

forever.

Marmee kept up bravely, and nodded and smiled; but at the corner

I saw the white handkerchief go up to the eyes, after being

gayly waved to us. May and I broke down, and said, "We won't go;"

but next day we set forth, as young birds will, and left the nest

empty for a year.

Sailed on the 2d in a gale of wind in the French steamer

"Lafayette" for Brest. Our adventures are told in "Shawl Straps."

"O. F. G." came out in March, and sold well. Train-boy going to

N. Y. put it into my lap; and when I said I didn't care for it,

exclaimed with surprise,--

"Bully book, ma'am! Sell a lot; better have it."

John told him I wrote it; and his chuckle, stare, and astonished

"No!" was great fun. On the steamer little girls had it, and came

in a party to call on me, very sea-sick in my berth, done up like

a mummy.

Spent some charming weeks in Brittany.

_June and July._--"O. F. G." was published in London by Sampson

Low & Co. We left Dinan on the 15th, and had a lovely trip

through France to Vevay and Bex.

Talk of war between France and Prussia.

Much excitement at Vevay. Refugees from Lyons come in. Isabella

and Don Carlos were there, with queer followers.

_September._--... On the 3d came news of the Emperor's surrender.

Great wailing among the French here. All well at home. Books

going finely; no debts.

We decide to go to Rome for the winter, as May pines for the

artist's Paradise; and war will not trouble us I hope.

SHIP "LAFAYETTE," April 9, 1870.

DEAREST MARMEE,--To-morrow we come to our long journey's end

[Brest, France], thank the Lord. It has been a good one on the

whole, and I have got along as well as I expected. But it is

tiresome to be day after day doing nothing; for my head will not

let me read. May has done well, and has been very kind to me and

good, and is the life of the table, I guess. I never go up to

meals, for Marie takes such good care of me; I lie and peck all

sorts of funny messes, and receive calls in my den. People seem

to think we are "guns," and want to know us; but as they are not

interesting, we are on the reserve, and it has a fine effect.

About three thousand miles away does not seem possible in so

little while. How do you all get along,--Marmee, Father, the

laddies, my lass, and dear old John? He was so good and kind all

the way I had no care or worry, but just lopped round and let him

do all the work. Bless the dear!

I shall despatch a good long letter as soon as we arrive and have

something to tell. We send this to ease your mind. Letters here

are not prepaid, so pay for mine out of my money. Don't forget to

tell the post-master in Boston about my letters.

Bless you all, says your

LU.

MORLAIX, April 14, 1870.

DEAREST MARMEE,--Having got our "poise" a bit by a day and night

on land, I begin at once to scribble to you, as I mean to keep a

letter on hand all the time, and send them off as fast as they

are done. We had a twelve days' passage, owing to a double screw

which they were trying and which delayed us, though it is safer

than one. The weather was cold and rainy, and the sea rough, so I

only went up once or twice, and kept warm in my den most of the

time. After the first two days I didn't feel sick, except my head

as usual. I slept, ate, ruminated, and counted the hours. May

poked about more, and was liked by all.

We got to Brest about noon Wednesday. A. and I got our trunks

through the custom-house, and after some squabbling with the men,

got all aboard for Morlaix, which is a curious old place worth

seeing. It was a lovely day, warm as our June, and we had a

charming trip of three hours through a country already green and

flowery. We reached our hotel all right, and after a nice dinner

had baths and went to bed. May's room being some way from mine,

she came and bunked in with me in my little bed, and we slept.

To-day is lovely, warm, and I am sitting at an open window

looking at the square, enjoying the queer sights and sounds; for

the air resounds with the rattle of wooden shoes on the stones.

Market-women sit all about selling queer things, among which are

snails; they buy them by the pint, pick them out with a pin like

nuts, and seem to relish them mightily. We went out this A.M.

after breakfast, and took a stroll about the queer old town. May

was in heaven, and kept having raptures over the gables, the

turrets with storks on them, the fountains, people, and churches.

She is now sketching the tower of St. Melanie, with a crowd of

small boys round her enjoying the sight and criticising the work.

It don't seem very new to me, but I enjoy it, and feel pretty

well. We are to study French every day when we settle, and I am

to do the mending, etc., for A., who is to talk for us, and make

our bargains. So far we go well together.

To-morrow we go on to Lamballe, where we take the diligence to

Dinan, fourteen miles farther, and there settle for some weeks. I

wish the boys could see the funny children here in little wooden

shoes like boats, the girls in blue cloth caps, aprons, and

shawls, just like the women, and the boys in funny hats and

sheepskin jackets. Now I must go and get May, who can't speak a

word of French, and has a panic if any one speaks to her. The

beggars afflict her, and she wants to give them money on all

occasions. This P.M. we go for a drive to see all there is, as

neither A. nor I are good walkers; "adoo" till by and by. I wish

I could send you this balmy day.

DINAN, Sunday, April 17, 1870.

Here we are, all settled at our first neat stopping-place, and

are in clover, as you will see when I tell you how plummy and

lovely it is. We left Morlaix Friday at 8 A.M., and were so

amazed at the small bill presented us that we couldn't praise the

town enough. You can judge of the cheapness of things, when I say

that my share of the expenses from Brest here, including two days

at a hotel, car, 'bus, and diligence fare, fees, and everything,

was $8. The day was divine, and we had a fine little journey to

Lamballe, where the fun began; for instead of a big diligence, we

found only a queer ramshackle thing like an insane carryall, with

a wooden boot and queer porch for the driver.

Our four trunks were piled up behind and tied on with old ropes,

our bags stowed in a wooden box on top, and ourselves inside with

a fat Frenchman. The humpbacked driver "ya hooped" to the horses,

and away we clattered at a wild pace, all feeling dead sure that

something would happen, for the old thing bounded and swayed

awfully, the trunks were in danger of tumbling off, and to our

dismay we soon discovered that the big Frenchman was tipsy. He

gabbled to A. as only a tipsy person could, quoted poetry; said

he was Victor Hugo's best friend, and a child of Nature; that

English ladies were all divine, but too cold,--for when he

pressed A.'s hand she told him it was not allowed in England, and

he was overwhelmed with remorse; bowed, sighed, rolled his eyes,

and told her that he drank much ale, because it flew to his head

and gave him "commercial ideas."

I never saw anything so perfectly absurd as it was, and after we

got used to it we laughed ourselves sick over the lark. You ought

to have seen us and our turnout, tearing over the road at a

breakneck pace, pitching, creaking, and rattling, the funny

driver hooting at the horses, who had their tails done up in

chignons, blue harness, and strings of bells, the drunken man

warbling, exhorting, and languishing at us all by turns, while A.

headed him off with great skill. I sat, a mass of English dignity

and coolness, suffering alternate agonies of anxiety and

amusement, and May, who tied her head up in a bundle, looked like

a wooden image.

It was rich; and when we took up first a peasant woman in wooden

shoes and fly-away cap, and then a red-nosed priest smoking a

long pipe, we were a superb spectacle. In this style we banged

into Dinan, stopped at the gate, and were dumped bag and baggage

in the square. Finding Madame Coste's man was not here for us, we

hired a man to bring our trunks up. To our great amazement, an

oldish woman, who was greasing the wheels of a diligence, came,

and catching up our big trunks, whipped them into two broad

carts, and taking one trotted down the street at a fine pace,

followed by the man with the other. That was the finishing touch;

and we went laughing after them through the great arched gate

into the quaintest, prettiest, most romantic town I ever saw.

Narrow streets with overhanging gables, distracting roofs,

windows, and porches, carved beams, and every sort of richness.

The strong old lady beat the man, and finally landed us close by

another old gate at a charming house fronting the south,

overlooking a lovely green valley, full of gardens, blooming

plum and peach trees, windmills, and a ruined castle, at sight of

which we all skipped. Madame Coste received us with rapture, for

A. brought a letter from Mrs. L., who stayed here and was the joy

of the old lady's soul. We were in great luck, for being early in

the season she had three rooms left, and we nabbed them at

once,--a salon with old oak walls and wardrobes, blue damask

furniture, a fireplace, funny windows, and quaint furniture. A

little room out of it for A., and upstairs a larger room for May

and me, with two beds draped in green chintz, and carved big

wardrobe, etc., and best of all, a sunny window toward the

valley. For these rooms and our board we each pay $1 a day, and I

call that cheap. It would be worth that to get the fun and air

alone, for it is like June, and we sit about with open windows,

flowers in the fields, birds singing, and everything spring-like.

We took possession at once, and dressed for a dinner at six. We

were then presented to our fellow-boarders,--Madame Forney, a

buxom widow, her son Gaston, a handsome Frenchy youth of

twenty-three, and her daughter, a homely girl of twenty, who is

to be married here on the 3d of May. After a great bowing and

scraping we had a funny fish dinner, it being Good Friday. When

they found we didn't speak French they were "desolated," and

begged us to learn at once, which we solemnly vowed to do. Gaston

"knew English," so May at once began to teach him more, and the

ice being broken we got gay and friendly at once. I could

understand them pretty well, but can't talk, and A. told them

that I was forbidden to say much on account of my throat. This

will give me a chance to get a fair start. May pegs away at her

grammar, and with that and the elegant Gaston, she will soon

begin to "parlez-vous."

After dinner we were borne to the great salon, where a fire,

lights, and a piano appeared. Every one sat round and gabbled

except the Alcotts, who looked and laughed. Mademoiselle Forney

played, and then May convulsed them by singing some _Chants

Amériques_, which they thought very lively and droll. They were

all attention and devotion to Madame Coste,--a tall old lady with

whiskers, who kept embracing A. and beaming at us in her great

content at being friends of _chère_ Madame L. A. told them that I

was a celebrated authoress, and May a very fine artist, and we

were beamed at more than ever. Being tired, we turned in early,

after a jolly time in our own little salon, eating chocolate and

laying plans.

DINAN, April 20, 1870.

... A. and I went shopping. A. got a little bird to enliven our

parlor, a sort of sparrow, gray with a red head and a lively

song. We named him Bernard du Guesclin (the hero of the town),

and call him Bernie. I got some nice gloves for three francs

(sixty cents), and a white sun-umbrella for May (forty cents).

She needs it when she sketches, and there is always a crowd of

children round her to watch and admire; she gives one of them a

sou to hold the umbrella, and so gets on nicely.

In the P.M. A. and I went to the little village of Lahou, in the

valley where the ruined castle is, to a fair. It was a very

picturesque sight, for the white-capped women, sitting about on

the green hillside, looked like flowers, and the blue blouses of

the men and wide-brimmed hats added to the effect. The little

street was lined with booths, where they sold nuts, queer cakes,

hot sausages, and pancakes, toys, etc. I got a funny cake, just

the size and shape of a deep pie-dish, and a jack-knife, for a

sou. We also indulged in nuts, and sat on our campstools in a

shady place and ate them boldly in the public mart, while

enjoying the lively scene. French and English people went by in

droll parties, and we coolly sat and stared at them. May is going

to sketch the castle, so I won't waste paper describing the

pretty place with the ruined church full of rooks, the old mill

with the waterwheel housed in vines, or the winding river, and

meadows full of blue hyacinths and rosy daisies.

Yesterday, A. and I had to return the call of Mademoiselle M.,

and as she speaks English I got on very well. The stairs to her

apartment were so steep that we held on by a velvet-covered rope

as we climbed up. In the P.M. we had fun, for we took two donkey

carriages and rode to the mineral spring. Gaston was sick and

couldn't go, as we had planned, so May drove herself in one, and

A. and I in the other. I wish the boys could have seen us, it was

so funny. The carriages were bath-chairs with a wee donkey

harnessed to each, so small, so neat, and looking so venerable

with thin long ears and bits of feet that I felt as if I was

driving my grandmother. May was a very imposing sight, alone in

her chair under her new umbrella, in her gray suit, with bright

gloves and a big whip, driving a gray rat who wouldn't trot

unless pounded and banged and howled at in the maddest way. Our

steed was bigger, but the most pig-headed old scamp you ever saw,

for it took two big women to make him go. I drove, and A.

thrashed away with all her might,--our joint efforts only

producing occasional short trots which enraged us dreadfully.

We laughed till we were sick, it was so very absurd; while May

trundled serenely along, enjoying the fine views regardless of

her rat, who paced along at his ease, wagging his ears and

meditating.

We had a nice trip, but didn't drink the water, as iron don't

suit us. Coming home, we passed the home of the donkeys, and they

at once turned in, and were with much difficulty persuaded to go

on by two short girls in caps and short gowns, who ran and

shouted "E! E! va oui!" and punched sticks into the poor asses,

rattling us over the stones till our eyes danced in our heads. We

found it rather hard work, and A. means to buy a horse and straw

pony-chaise, so we can drive ourselves in peace where we like....

A. is bargaining for a horse which an Englishman wishes to sell

for $50, including harness and cart. We can't hire horses for

less than $2 a drive, and donkeys are vile, so it is cheaper to

buy, and sell when we go away, and so drive as much as we like.

A. knows about such things, and takes all the responsibility....

To-morrow we go on a little excursion in the steamboat down the

river, and return _à la_ donkey with the English ladies, who have

returned our call and are very friendly.

Please forward this little note in an envelope to its address.

The child wrote me a pretty letter, which N. sent, and the pa

said I wouldn't answer. The child said, "I know she will, she is

so nice." So I do. Best love to every one. Don't go home too

soon. I shall write to Fred and Jack next time. Good-by.

LU.

_To M. S._

... They call each other pet names that convulse us,--"my little

pig," "my sweet hen," "my cabbage," and "my tom-cat." A French

lady with her son and daughter board here, and their ways amuse

us mightily. The girl is to be married next week to a man whom

she has seen twice, and never talked to but an hour in her life.

She writes to him what her mother dictates, and says she should

be ashamed to love him before they were married. Her wedding

clothes absorb her entire mind, and her Jules will get a pretty

doll when he takes Mademoiselle A. F. to wife. Gaston, the son,

puts on _blasé_ airs, though only twenty-two, and languishes at

May, for they can't talk, as he does not know English nor she

French.

April 27.

I left my letter to drive to a ruined château, which we went all

over, as a part is inhabited by a farmer who keeps his hog in the

great banqueting hall, his grain in the chapel, and his hens in

the lady's chamber. It was very picturesque; the old rooms, with

ivy coming in at the windows, choking up the well, and climbing

up the broken towers. The lady of the château was starved to

death by her cruel brothers, and buried in the moat, where her

bones were found long afterward, and her ghost still haunts the

place they say. Here we had cider, tell Pa.

Coming home we saw a Dolmen, one of the Druidical remains. It

stood in a grove of old pines,--a great post of gray stone, some

twenty-five feet high, and very big round. It leaned as if

falling, and had queer holes in it. Brittany is full of these

relics, which no one can explain, and I was glad to see the

mysterious things.

Yesterday we took a little trip down the river in a tiny steamer,

going through a lock and skimming along between the green banks

of the narrow river to Miss M.'s country-house, where we had new

milk, and lay on the grass for an hour or so. Then May and Miss

M. walked home, and A. and I went in a donkey cart.

To-day the girls have gone to La Garaye with Gaston on donkeys.

The weather has been cold for a day or two with easterly winds.

So I feel it at once and keep warm. It is very unusual at this

time, but comes, I suppose, because I've travelled hundreds of

miles to get rid of them. It won't last long, and then we shall

be hot enough.

We lead such quiet, lazy lives I really have nothing to tell.

Oh, yes, the _fiancé_ of Mademoiselle has arrived, and amuses us

very much. He is a tiny man in uniform, with a red face, big

moustache, and blue eyes. He thinks he talks English, and makes

such very funny mistakes. He asked us if we had been to

"promenade on monkeys" meaning donkeys, and called the Casino

"the establishment of dance." He addresses all his attentions to

the ma, and only bows to his future wife, who admires her

diamonds and is contented. We are going away on the day of the

wedding, as it is private.

The girls have just returned in great spirits, for A.'s donkey

kept lying down, and it took all three to get him up again. They

sat in a sort of chair, and looked very funny with the four

little legs under them and long ears flopping before. I shall go

to Garaye some fine day, and will tell you about it.

Adieu, love to all.

Yours,

LU.

_Dinan_, May 6, 1870.

DEAR PEOPLE,--I have just got a fat letter full of notices from

N.,--all good, and news generally pleasant.

The great event of the season is over, and Miss F. is Mrs. C. It

was a funny scene, for they had a breakfast the day before, then

on Tuesday the wedding. We did not go, as the church is like a

tomb, but we saw the bride, in white satin, pearls, orange

flowers, and lace, very pretty, and like other brides. Her ma, in

purple moire and black lace, was fine to see; and the little

groom, in full regimentals, with a sabre as large as himself, was

very funny. A lot of people came in carriages to escort them to

church; and our little square was full of queer turnouts, smartly

dressed people, and a great bustle. There was some mistake about

the bride's carriage, and it did not drive up in time, so she

stood on the steps till it came as near as it could, and then she

trotted out to it on Gaston's arm, with her maid holding up her

satin train. Uncle, ma, bride, and brother drove off, but the

groom's carriage was delayed by the breaking of a trace, and

there he sat, with his fat pa and ma, after every one had gone,

fuming, and poking his little cocked hat out of the window, while

the man mended the harness, and every one looked on with

breathless interest.

We went to D---- with Coste in the P.M., and had a fine view of

the sea and San Malo. We didn't like D----, and won't go there.

When we got home about eight o'clock the wedding dinner was in

full blast, and I caught a glimpse of a happy pair at the head of

the table, surrounded by a lot of rigged-up ladies and fine men,

all gabbing and gabbling as only French folk can. The couple are

still here, resting and getting acquainted before they go to

Lamballe for a week of festivity. A church wedding is a very

funny thing, and I wish you could have seen it.

The dry season continues, and the people have processions and

masses to pray for rain. One short flurry of hail is all we have

had, and the cold winds still blow. When our month is out we

shall go somewhere near the sea if it is at all warm. Nothing

could be kinder than dear old Coste, and I couldn't be in a

better place to be poorly in than this; she coddles me like a

mother, and is so grieved that I don't get better.

Send Ma a bit of the gorse flower with which the fields are now

yellow.

Yours,

LU.

DINAN, May 13, 1870.

DEAREST FOLKS,--We drove to Guildo yesterday to see if we should

like it for July. It is a queer little town on the seashore, with

ruins near by, bright houses, and lots of boats. Rooms a franc a

day, and food very cheap. The man of the house--a big, brown,

Peggotty sailor--has a sloop, and promised the girls as much

sailing as they liked. We may go, but our plans are very vague,

and one day we say we will go to one place and the next to

another, and shall probably end by staying where we are.

Yours,

LU.

DINAN, May 17, 1870.

DEAREST PEOPLE,--We run out and do errands in the cool before

breakfast at ten, then we write, sew, and read, and look round,

till four, when we go to drive. May and I in the cherry bounce

with M. Harmon to drive us, and A. on horseback; for, after

endless fuss, she has at last evoked a horse out of chaos, and

comes galloping gayly after us as we drive about the lovely roads

with the gallant hotel-keeper, Adolph Harmon. We are getting

satiated with ruins and châteaux, and plan a trip by water to

Nantes; for the way they do it is to hire a big boat and be towed

by a horse in the most luxurious manner.

_To Anna._

DINAN, May 25, 1870.

DEAR BETSEY,[8]--All well. We have also had fun about the queer

food, as we don't like brains, liver, etc. A. does; and when we

eat some mess, not knowing what it is, and find it is sheep's

tails or eels, she exults over us, and writes poems.

I wander dreadfully, but the girls are racketing, birdie singing

like mad, and nine horses neighing to one another in the place,

so my ideas do not flow as clearly as they should. Besides, I

expect Gaston to come in every minute to show us his rig; for he

is going to a picnic in Breton costume,--a very French affair,

for the party are to march two and two, with fiddlers in front,

and donkeys bearing the feast in the rear. Such larks!

Yesterday we had a funny time. We went to drive in a basket

chair, very fine, with a perch behind and a smart harness; but

most of the horses here are stallions, and act like time. Ours

went very well at first, but in the town took to cutting up, and

suddenly pounced on to a pile of brush, and stuck his head into a

bake-shop. We tried to get him out, but he only danced and

neighed, and all the horses in town seemed to reply. A man came

and led him on a bit, but he didn't mean to go, and whisked over

to the other side, where he tangled us and himself up with a long

string of team horses. I flew out and May soon followed. A. was

driving, and kept in while the man led the "critter" back to the

stable. I declined my drive with the insane beast, and so we left

him and bundled home in the most ignominious manner. All the

animals are very queer here, and, unlike ours, excessively big.

We went to a ruin one day, and were about to explore the castle,

when a sow, with her family of twelve, charged through the

gateway at us so fiercely that we fled in dismay; for pigs are

not nice when they attack, as we don't know where to bone 'em,

and I saw a woman one day whose nose had been bitten off by an

angry pig. I flew over a hedge; May tried to follow. I pulled

her over head first, and we tumbled into the tower like a routed

garrison. It wasn't a nice ruin, but we were bound to see it,

having suffered so much. And we did see it, in spite of the pigs,

who waylaid us on all sides, and squealed in triumph when we

left,--dirty, torn, and tired. The ugly things wander at their

own sweet will, and are tall, round-backed, thin wretches, who

run like race horses, and are no respecters of persons.

Sunday was a great day here, for the children were confirmed. It

was a pretty sight to see the long procession of little girls, in

white gowns and veils, winding through the flowery garden and the

antique square, into the old church, with their happy mothers

following, and the boys in their church robes singing as they

went. The old priest was too ill to perform the service, but the

young one who did announced afterward that if the children would

pass the house the old man would bless them from his bed. So all

marched away down the street, with crosses and candles, and it

was very touching to see the feeble old man stretch out his hands

above them as the little white birds passed by with bended heads,

while the fresh, boyish voices chanted the responses. This old

priest is a very interesting man, for he is a regular saint,

helping every one, keeping his house as a refuge for poor and old

priests, settling quarrels among the people, and watching over

the young people as if they were his own. I shall put him in a

story.

_Voilà!_ Gaston has just come in, rigged in a white embroidered

jacket, with the Dinan coat-of-arms worked in scarlet and yellow

silk on it fore and aft; a funny hat, with streamers, and a belt,

with a knife, horn, etc. He is handsome, and as fond of finery as

a girl. I'll send you his picture next time, and one of Dinan.

You will see that Marmee has all she needs, and a girl, and as

much money as she wants for being cosey and comfortable. S. E. S.

will let her have all she wants, and make her take it. I'm sorry

the chapel $100 didn't come, for she likes to feel that she has

some of her very own.

I have written to Conway and Mrs. Taylor, so that if we decide to

take a run to England before we go to Italy, the way will be

open....

But Dinan is so healthy and cosey, that we shall linger till the

heat makes us long for the sea. Roses, cherries, strawberries,

and early vegetables are come, and we are in clover. Dear old

Coste broods over us like a motherly hen, and just now desired me

to give her affectionate and respectful compliments to my _bonne

mère_.

Now I'm spun out; so adieu, my darling Nan. Write often, and I

will keep sending,--trusting that you will get them in time.

Kisses all round.

Yours,

LU.

DINAN, May 30, 1870.

DEAR FOLKS,--May has made up such a big letter that I will only

add a line to give you the last news of the health of her

Highness Princess Louisa. She is such a public character nowadays

that even her bones are not her own, and her wails of woe cannot

be kept from the long ears of the world,--old donkey as it is!

Dr. Kane, who was army surgeon in India, and doctor in England

for forty years, says my leg trouble and many of my other woes

come from the calomel they gave me in Washington. He has been

through the same thing with an Indian jungle fever, and has never

got the calomel out of him.... I don't know anything about it,

only my leg is the curse of my life. But I think Dr. K.'s iodine

of potash will cure it in the end, as it did his arms, after

taking it for three months. It is simple, pleasant, and seems to

do something to the bones that gives them ease; so I shall sip

away and give it a good trial.

We are now revelling in big strawberries, green peas, early

potatoes, and other nice things, on which we shall grow fat as

pigs.

We are beginning to think of a trip into Normandy, where the H.'s

are.

Love to all. By-by!

Your loving

LU.

No news except through N., who yesterday sent me a nice letter

with July account of $6,212,--a neat little sum for "the Alcotts,

who can't make money!" With $10,000 well invested, and more

coming in all the time, I think we may venture to enjoy

ourselves, after the hard times we have all had.

The cream of the joke is, that we made our own money ourselves,

and no one gave us a blessed penny. That does soothe my rumpled

soul so much that the glory is not worth thinking of.

_To Anna._

DINAN, June 4, 1870.

* * * * *

The present excitement is the wood which Coste is having put in.

Loads keep coming in queer, heavy carts drawn by four horses

each, and two men to work the machine. Two men chop the great oak

stumps, and a woman puts it in down cellar by the armful. The men

get two francs a day,--forty cents! (Wouldn't our $3 a day

workmen howl at that sort of wages!) When several carts arrive at

once the place is a lively scene. Just now there were three carts

and twelve horses, and eight were all up in a snarl, while

half-a-dozen ladies stood at their doors and gave advice. One

had a half-dressed baby in her arms; one a lettuce she was

washing; another her distaff; and a fourth her little bowl of

soup, which she ate at on the sidewalk, in the intervals

gesticulating so frantically that her sabots rattled on the

stones. The horses had a free fight, and the man couldn't seem to

manage one big one, who romped about like a wild elephant, till

the lady with the baby suddenly set the half-naked cherub on the

doorsteps, charged in among the rampant beasts, and, by some

magic howl or jerk, brought the bad horse to order, when she

quietly returned to her baby, who had sat placidly eating dirt,

and with a calm _Voilà, messieurs_, she skipped little Jean into

his shirt, and the men sat down to smoke.

We are now in great excitement over Gaston, who has lately become

so very amiable that we don't know him. We began by letting the

spoiled child severely alone. This treatment worked well, and now

he offers us things at table, bows when we enter, and to-day

presented us with green tulips, violet shrubs, and queer medals

all round. We have let little bits of news leak out about us, and

they think we are dukes and duchesses in _Amérique_, and

pronounce us _très spirituelles; très charmantes; très seductives

femmes_. We laugh in private, and are used to having the entire

company rise when we enter, and embrace us with ardor, listen

with uplifted hands and shrieks of _mon Dieu! grand ciel!_ etc.,

to all remarks, and point us out in public as _les dames

Américaines_. Such is fame!

An English lady arrived to-day--a Miss B.--dressed, with English

taste, in a little green skirt, pink calico waist, a large

crumpled frill, her hair in a tight knot, one front tooth

sticking straight out, and a golden oriole in a large cage. She

is about forty, very meek and pursy, and the old ladies have been

sitting in a heap since breakfast, talking like mad.

May has "sack" on the brain just now, and A. has "hose" on the

brain; and at this moment they are both gabbling wildly, one

saying, "I shall trim it with blue and have it pinked!" the other

shrieking, "My hose must be red, with little dragons in black all

over it, like small-pox!" and the bird flies to her upper perch

in dismay at the riot, while I sit and laugh, with an occasional

duennaish, "Young ladies, less noise if you please!"

It rained last eve, and we are waiting for it to dry before going

out in the donkey chaise to buy a warm bun and some strawberries

for lunch, to be eaten as we parade the town and drink ale at

intervals.

* * * * *

Do tell me how things are about my pictures. I see they are

advertised, and if they sell I want my share of the profits. Send

me one of those that are in the market, after taking off the

heavy card.

Love to all, and the best of luck.

Ever your

LU.

HOTEL D'UNIVERSE, TOURS, June 17, 1870.

DEAREST PEOPLE,--Our wanderings have begun again, and here we are

in this fine old city in a cosey hotel, as independent and happy

as three old girls can be. We left Dinan Wednesday at 7 A.M.

Gaston got up to see us off,--a most unusual and unexpected

honor; also Mrs. B. and all the old ladies, whom we left

dissolved in tears.

We had a lovely sail down the river to St. Malo, where we

breakfasted at Hotel Franklin, a quaint old house in a flowery

corner. At twelve we went by rail to Le Mans,--a long trip,--and

arrived at 6 P.M. so tired that we went to bed in the moonlight

while a band played in the square before the hotel, and the

sidewalks before the café were full of people taking ices and

coffee round little tables.

Next morning we went to see the famous cathedral and had

raptures, for it is like a dream in stone. Pure Gothic of the

twelfth century, with the tomb of Berengaria, wife of Coeur de

Leon, stained glass of the richest kind, dim old chapels with

lamps burning, a gorgeous high altar all crimson and gold and

carmine, and several organs. Anything more lovely and divine I

never saw, for the arches, so light and graceful, seemed to soar

up one above the other like the natural curves of trees or the

spray of a great fountain. We spent a long time here and I sat

above in the quaint old chapel with my eyes and heart full, and

prayed a little prayer for my family. Old women and men knelt

about in corners telling their beads, and the priest was quietly

saying his prayers at the altar. Outside it was a pile of gray

stone, with towers and airy pinnacles full of carved saints and

busy rooks. I don't think we shall see anything finer anywhere.

It was very hot for there had been no rain for four months, so we

desired to start for town at 5 and get in about 8 as it is light

then.

We had a pleasant trip in the cool of the day, and found Tours a

great city, like Paris on a small scale. Our hotel is on the

boulevard, and the trees, fountains, and fine carriages make our

windows very tempting. We popped into bed early; and my bones are

so much better that I slept without any opium or anything,--a

feat I have not performed for some time.

This morning we had coffee and rolls in bed, then as it was a

fine cool day we dressed up clean and nice and went out for a

walk. At the post-office we found your letters of May 31, one

from Nan and Ma, and one from L. We were exalted, and went into

the garden and read them in bliss, with the grand cathedral right

before us. Cathedral St. Martin, twelfth century, with tomb of

Charles XIII.'s children, the armor of Saint Louis, fine pictures

of Saint Martin, his cloak, etc. May will tell you about it and I

shall put in a photograph, if I can find one. We are now--12

o'clock--in our pleasant room all round the table writing letters

and resting for another trip by and by.

The _Fête Dieu_ is on Monday,--very splendid,--and we shall then

see the cathedral in its glory. To-day a few hundred children

were having their first communion there, girls all in white, with

scarlet boys, crosses, candles, music, priests, etc. Get a

Murray, and on the map of France follow us to Geneva, _via_ St.

Malo, Le Mans, Tours, Amboise and Blois, Orleans, Nevers, Autun.

We may go to the Vosges instead of the Jura if Mrs. H. can go, as

A. wants to see her again. But we head for the Alps of some sort

and will report progress as we go.

My money holds out well so far, as we go second class.

_To her Father._

TOURS, June 20, 1870.

DEAR PAPA,--Before we go on to fresh "châteaux and churches new,"

I must tell you about the sights here in this pleasant, clean,

handsome old city. May has done the church for you, and I send a

photograph to give some idea of it. The inside is very beautiful;

and we go at sunset to see the red light make the gray walls

lovely outside and the shadows steal from chapel to chapel

inside, filling the great church with what is really "a dim

religious gloom." We wandered about it the other evening till

moonrise, and it was very interesting to see the people scattered

here and there at their prayers; some kneeling before Saint

Martin's shrine, some in a flowery little nook dedicated to the

infant Christ, and one, a dark corner with a single candle

lighting up a fine picture of the Mater Dolorosa, where a widow

all in her weeds sat alone, crying and praying. In another a sick

old man sat, while his old wife knelt by him praying with all her

might to Saint Gratien (the patron saint of the church) for her

dear old invalid. Nuns and priests glided about, and it was all

very poetical and fine, till I came to an imposing priest in a

first class chapel who was taking snuff and gaping, instead of

piously praying.

The _Fête Dieu_ was yesterday, and I went out to see the

procession. The streets were hung with old tapestry, and sheets

covered with flowers. Crosses, crowns, and bouquets were

suspended from house to house, and as the procession approached,

women ran out and scattered green boughs and rose-leaves before

the train. A fine band and a lot of red soldiers came first, then

the different saints on banners, carried by girls, and followed

by long trains of girls bearing the different emblems. Saint

Agnes and her lamb was followed by a flock of pretty young

children all in white, carrying tall white lilies that filled the

air with their fragrance.

"Mary our Mother" was followed by orphans with black ribbons

crossed on their breasts. Saint Martin led the charity boys in

their gray suits, etc. The Host under a golden canopy was borne

by priests in gorgeous rig, and every one knelt as it passed with

censors swinging, candles burning, boys chanting, and flowers

dropping from the windows. A pretty young lady ran out and set

her baby in a pile of green leaves in the middle of the street

before the Host, and it passed over the little thing who sat

placidly staring at the show and admiring its blue shoes. I

suppose it is a saved and sacred baby henceforth.

It was a fine pageant and quite touching, some of it; but as

usual, I saw something funny to spoil the solemnity. A very fat

and fine priest, who walked with his eyes upon his book and sung

like a pious bumblebee, suddenly destroyed the effect by rapping

a boy over the head with his gold prayer-book, as the black sheep

strayed a little from the flock. I thought the old saint swore

also.

The procession went from the cathedral to Charlemagne's Tower, an

old, old relic, all that is left of the famous church which once

covered a great square. We went to see it, and the stones looked

as if they were able to tell wonderful tales of the scenes they

had witnessed all these hundreds of years. I think the

"Reminiscences of a Rook" would be a good story, for these old

towers are full of them, and they are long-lived birds.

AMBOISE, THE GOLDEN LION,

Tuesday, June 21, 1870.

Here we go again! now in an utterly different scene from Tours.

We left at 5 P.M., and in half an hour were here on the banks of

the Loire in a queer little inn where we are considered duchesses

at least, owing to our big trunks and A.'s good French. I am the

Madame, May Mam'selle, and A. the companion.

Last evening being lovely, we went after dinner up to the castle

where Charles VIII. was born in 1470. The Arab chief,

Abd-el-Kader, and family were kept prisoners here, and in the old

garden is a tomb with the crescent over it where some of them

were buried. May was told about the terrace where the Huguenots

hung thick and the court enjoyed the sight till the Loire,

choked up with dead bodies, forced them to leave. We saw the

little low door where Anne of Brittany's first husband Charles

VIII. "bumped his head" and killed himself, as he was running

through to play bowls with his wife.

It has been modernized and is now being restored as in old times,

so the interior was all in a toss. But we went down the winding

road inside the tower, up which the knights and ladies used to

ride. Father would have enjoyed the _pleached_ walks, for they

are cut so that looking down on them, it is like a green floor,

and looking up it is a thick green wall. There also Margaret of

Anjou and her son were reconciled to Warwick. Read Murray, I beg,

and see all about it. We sat in the twilight on the terrace and

saw what Fred would have liked, a little naked boy ride into the

river on one horse after another, and swim them round in the deep

water till they were all clean and cool.

This morning at 7 o'clock we drove to Chenonceaux, the chateau

given by Henry II. to Diane de Poictiers. It was a lovely day,

and we went rolling along through the most fruitful country I

ever saw. Acre on acre of yellow grain, vineyards miles long,

gardens and orchards full of roses and cherries. The Cher is a

fine river winding through the meadows, where haymakers were at

work and fat cattle feeding. It was a very happy hour, and the

best thing I saw was May's rapturous face opposite, as she sat

silently enjoying everything, too happy to talk.

The château built over the water is very interesting; Catherine

de Medicis took it away from Diane when the king died, and her

room is still seen as she left it; also a picture of Diane, a

tall simpering woman in a tunic, with hounds, stag, cupids, and

other rubbish round her. The gallery of pictures was fine; for

here were old, old portraits and bas-reliefs, Agnes Sorel,

Montaigne, Rabelais, many kings and queens, and among them

Lafayette and dear old Ben Franklin.

There is a little theatre where Rousseau's plays were acted. This

place at the time of the Revolution belonged to the grandmother

of George Sand, and she was so much respected that no harm was

done to it. So three cheers for Madame Dupin! Among the pictures

were Ninon D'Enclos, and Madame Sevigné holding a picture of her

beloved daughter. The Guidos, etc. I don't care for so much as

they were all grimy and convulsive, and I prefer pictures of

people who really lived, to these impossible Venuses and

repulsive saints,--bad taste, but I can't help it. The walls were

hung with stamped leather and tapestry, carved chairs in which

queens had sat, tables at which kings had eaten, books they had

read, and glasses that had reflected their faces were all about,

and I just revelled. The old kitchen had a fireplace quaint

enough to suit Pa, with immense turn-spits, cranes, andirons,

etc. The chapel, balcony, avenue, draw-bridge, and all the other

pleasing bits were enjoyed, and I stole a sprig of jasmine from

the terrace which I shall press for Mamma. Pray take extra care

of the photographs, for if lost, we cannot replace them, and I

want to make a fine album of pictures with flowers and

descriptions after I get home.... But all goes well and we enjoy

much every day. Love to all,

LU.

_To her Mother._

BLOIS, June 24, 1870.

DEAR MARMEE,--On this, Lizzie's and Johnny's birthday, I'll begin

a letter to you. We found at the Poste Restante here two "Moods"

and a paper for me, one book from L., and one from N. I think

the pictures horrid, and sent them floating down the Loire as

soon as possible, and put one book at the bottom of my trunk and

left the other where no one will find it. I couldn't read the

story, and try to forget that I ever wrote it.

Blois is a noisy, dusty, soldierly city with nothing to admire

but the river, nearly dry now with this four months' drought, and

the old castle where Francis I., Louis XII., Catherine de

Medicis, and other great folks lived. It has been very splendidly

restored by the Government, and the ceilings are made with beams

blazoned with coats-of-arms, the walls hung with cameos, painted

with the same design as the stamped leather in old times, and the

floors inlaid with colored tiles. Brown and gold, scarlet, blue,

and silver, quaint dragons and flowers, porcupines and

salamanders, crowns and letters, glittered everywhere. We saw the

guard-room and the very chimney where the Duc de Guise was

leaning when the king Henry III. sent for him; the little door

where the king's gentlemen fell upon and stabbed him with forty

wounds; the cabinet where the king and his mother plotted the

deed; the chapel where the monks prayed for success; and the

great hall where the body lay covered with a cloak till the king

came and looked at it and kicked his dead enemy, saying, "I did

not think he was so tall." We also saw the cell where the brother

of the duke was murdered the next day, and the attic entire where

their bodies were burnt, after which the ashes were thrown into

the Loire by order of the king; the window out of which Marie de

Medicis lowered herself when her son Louis XIII. imprisoned her

there; the recess where Catherine de Medicis died; and many other

interesting places. What a set of rascals these old kings and

queens were!

The _Salle des États_ was very gorgeous, and here in a week or so

are to be tried the men who lately fired at the Emperor. It will

be a grand, a fine sight when the great arched hall is full. I

got a picture of the castle, and one of a fireplace for Pa. It is

a mass of gold and color, with the porcupine of Louis XIII. and

the ermine of his wife Anne of Brittany, their arms, in medallion

over it.

At 5 P.M. we go on to Orleans for a day, where I shall get some

relics of Joan of Arc for Nan. We shall pass Sunday at Bourges

where the great church is, and then either to Geneva or the Jura,

for a few weeks of rest.

GENEVA, June 29, 1870.

It seems almost like getting home again to be here where I never

thought to come again when I went away five years ago. We are at

the Metropole Hotel right on the lake with a glimpse of Mount

Blanc from our windows. It is rather fine after the grimy little

inns of Brittany, and we enjoy a sip of luxury and put on our

best gowns with feminine satisfaction after living in old

travelling suits for a fortnight.

I began my letter at Blois, where we spent a day or two. At

Orleans we only passed a night, but we had time to see the famous

statue of the Maid, put up in gratitude by the people of the city

she saved. It is a fine statue of Joan in her armor on horseback,

with her sword drawn. Round the base of the statue are bronzed

bas-reliefs of her life from the girl with her sheep, to the

martyr at the stake. They were very fine, but don't show much in

the photograph which I got for Nan, remembering the time when she

translated Schiller's play for me.

At Bourges we saw the great cathedral, but didn't like it as well

as that in Tours. We only spent a night there, and A. bought an

antique ring of the time of Francis I.,--an emerald set in

diamonds. It cost $9, and is very quaint and handsome.

Moulins we reached Sunday noon, and at 3 o'clock went to vespers

in the old church, where we saw a good deal of mumbo-jumbo by

red, purple, and yellow priests, and heard a boy with a lovely

voice sing in the hidden choir like a little angel among the

clouds. A. had a fancy to stay a week, if we could find rooms out

of town in some farm-house; for the handsome white cattle have

captivated her, and we were rather tired. So the old lady at the

hotel said she had a little farm-house out in the fields, and we

should go see it with her in basket _chay_. After dinner we all

piled in and went along a dusty road to a little dirty

garden-house with two rooms and a few cabbages and rose-bushes

round it. She said we could sleep and eat at the hotel and come

down here for the day. That didn't suit at all, so we declined;

and on Monday morning we set out for Lyons. It was a very

interesting trip under, over, and through the mountains with two

engines and much tunnelling and up-and-down grading. May was

greatly excited at the queer things we did, and never knew that

cars could turn such sharp corners. We wound about so that we

could see the engine whisking out of sight round one corner while

we were turning another, and the long train looked like a snake

winding through the hills. The tunnels were so long that lamps

were lighted, and so cold we put on our sacks while passing in

the darkness. The scenery was very fine; and after we left Lyons,

where we merely slept, the Alps began to appear, and May and I

stared in blissful silence; for we had two tall old men opposite,

and a little priest, so young that we called him the Rev. boy. He

slept and said his prayers most of the time, stealing sly looks

at May's hair, A.'s pretty hands, and my buckled shoes, which

were like his own and seemed to strike him as a liberty on my

part. The old boys were very jolly, especially the one with three

chins, who smiled paternally upon us and tried to talk. But we

were very English and mum, and he thought we didn't understand

French, and confided to his friend that he didn't see "how the

English could travel and know not the French tongue." They sang,

gabbled, slept, and slapped one another at intervals, and were

very amusing till they left, and another very handsome Booth-like

priest took their places.

_To her Father._

BEX, July 14, 1870.

DEAR PA,--As I have not written to you yet, I will send you a

picture-letter and tell you about the very interesting old Count

Sz-- who is here. This morning he asked us to go to the hills and

see some curious trees which he says were planted from acorns and

nuts brought from Mexico by Atala. We found some very ancient

oaks and chestnuts, and the enthusiastic old man told us the

story about the Druids who once had a church, amphitheatre, and

sacrificial altar up there. No one knows much about it, and he

imagines a good deal to suit his own pet theory. You would have

liked to hear him hold forth about the races and Zoroaster,

Plato, etc. He is a Hungarian of a very old family, descended

from Semiramide and Zenobia. He believes that the body can be

cured often by influencing the soul, and that doctors should be

priests, and priests doctors, as the two affect the body and soul

which depend on one another. He is doing a great deal for Miss

W., who has tried many doctors and got no help. I never saw such

a kindly, simple, enthusiastic, old soul, for at sixty-seven he

is as full of hope and faith and good-will as a young man. I told

him I should like my father to see a little book he has written,

and he is going to give me one.

We like this quiet little place among the mountains, and pass

lazy days; for it is very warm, and we sit about on our balconies

enjoying the soft air, the moonlight, and the changing aspect of

the hills.

May had a fine exciting time going up St. Bernard, and is now

ready for another....

The Polish Countess and her daughter have been reading my books

and are charmed with them. Madame says she is not obliged to turn

down any pages so that the girls may not read them, as she does

in many books, "All is so true, so sweet, so pious, she may read

every word."

I send by this mail the count's little pamphlet. I don't know as

it amounts to much, but I thought you might like to see it.

Love to every one, and write often to your

Affectionate daughter

L. M. A.

BEX, July 18, 1870.

DEAR PEOPLE,--The breaking out of this silly little war between

France and Prussia will play the deuce with our letters. I have

had none from you for a long time; and Alexandre, the English

waiter here, says that the mails will be left to come as they

can, for the railroads are all devoted to carrying troops to the

seat of war. The French have already crossed the Rhine, and

rumors of a battle came last eve; but the papers have not

arrived, and no letters for any one, so all are fuming for news,

public and private, and I am howling for my home letter, which is

more important than all the papers on the continent....

Don't be worried if you don't hear regularly, or think us in

danger. Switzerland is out of the mess, and if she gets in, we

can skip over into Italy, and be as cosey as possible. It will

make some difference in money, perhaps, as Munroe in Paris is our

banker, and we shall be plagued about our letters, otherwise the

war won't effect us a bit; I dare say you know as much about it

as we do, and Marmee is predicting "a civil war" all over the

world. We hear accounts of the frightful heat with you. Don't

wilt away before we come....

Lady Amberley is a trump, and I am glad she says a word for her

poor sex though she _is_ a peeress....

I should like to have said of me what Hedge says of Dickens; and

when I die, I should prefer such a memory rather than a tomb in

Westminster Abbey.

* * * * *

I hope to have a good letter from Nan soon. May does the

descriptions so well that I don't try it, being lazy.

LU.

_To Anna._

SUNDAY, July 24, 1870.

... The war along the Rhine is sending troops of travellers to

Switzerland for refuge; and all the large towns are brimful of

people flying from Germany. It won't trouble us, for we have done

France and don't mean to do Germany. So when August is over, we

shall trot forward to Italy, and find a warm place for our

winter-quarters. At any time twenty-four hours carries us over

the Simplon, so we sit at ease and don't care a straw for old

France and Prussia. Russia, it is reported, has joined in the

fight, but Italy and England are not going to meddle, so we can

fly to either "in case of fire."[9]

BEX, July 27, 1870.

We heard of Dickens's death some weeks ago and have been reading

notices, etc., in all the papers since. One by G. Greenwood in

the Tribune was very nice. I shall miss my old Charlie, but he is

not the old idol he once was....

Did you know that Higginson and a little girl friend had written

out the Operatic Tragedy in "Little Women" and set the songs to

music and it was all to be put in "Our Young Folks." What are we

coming to in our old age? Also I hope to see the next designs N.

has got for "Little Women." I know nothing about them.

_To her Mother._

3 P.M., BEX, July 31, 1870.

Papers are suppressed by the Government so we know nothing about

the war, except the rumors that float about. But people seem to

think that Europe is in for a general fight, and there is no

guessing when it will end.

The trouble about getting into Italy is, that civil war always

breaks out there and things are so mixed up that strangers get

into scrapes among the different squabblers. When the P.'s were

abroad during the last Italian fuss, they got shut up in some

little city and would have been killed by Austrians, who were

rampaging round the place drunk and mad, if a woman had not hid

them in a closet for a day and night, and smuggled them out at

last, when they ran for their lives. I don't mean to get into any

mess, and between Switzerland and England we can manage for a

winter. London is so near home and so home-like that we shall be

quite handy and can run up to Boston at any time. Perhaps Pa will

step across to see us.

All these plans may be knocked in the head to-morrow and my next

letter may be dated from the Pope's best parlor or Windsor

Castle; but I like to spin about on ups and downs so you can have

something to talk about at Apple Slump. Uncertainty gives a

relish to things, so we chase about and have a dozen plans a day.

It is an Alcott failing you know....

Love to all and bless you,

Ever yours

LU.

BEX, Aug. 7, 1870.

DEAR MR. NILES,--I keep receiving requests from editors to write

for their papers and magazines. I am truly grateful, but having

come abroad for rest I am not inclined to try the treadmill till

my year's vacation is over. So to appease these worthy gentlemen

and excuse my seeming idleness I send you a trifle in rhyme,[10]

which you can (if you think it worth the trouble) set going as a

general answer to everybody; for I can't pay postage in replies

to each separately,--"it's very costly." Mr. F. said he would pay

me $10, $15, $20 for any little things I would send him; so

perhaps you will let him have it first.

The war makes the bankers take double toll on our money, so we

feel very poor and as if we ought to be earning, not spending;

only we are _so_ lazy we can't bear to think of it in earnest....

We shall probably go to London next month if the war forbids

Italy for the winter; and if we can't get one dollar without

paying five for it, we shall come home disgusted.

Perhaps if I can do nothing else this year I could have a book of

short stories, old and new, for Christmas. F. and F. have some

good ones, and I have the right to use them. We could call them

"Jo March's Necessity Stories." Would it go with new ones added

and good illustrations?

I am rising from my ashes in a most phoenix-like manner.

L. M.A.

_To her Mother._

VEVAY, PENSION PARADIS, Aug. 11, 1870.

DEAR MARMEE,--.... This house is very cosey, and the food

excellent. I thought it would be when I heard gentlemen liked

it,--they always want good fodder. There are only three now,--an

old Spaniard and his son, and a young Frenchman. We see them at

meals, and the girls play croquet with them....

This is the gay season here, and in spite of the war Vevay is

full. The ex-Queen of Spain and her family are here at the Grand

Hotel; also Don Carlos, the rightful heir to the Spanish throne.

Our landlady says that her house used to be full of Spaniards,

who every day went in crowds to call on the two kings, Alphonse

and Carlos. We see brown men and women with black eyes driving

round in fine coaches, with servants in livery, who I suppose are

the Court people.

The papers tell us that the French have lost two big battles; the

Prussians are in Strasbourg, and Paris in a state of siege. The

papers are also full of theatrical messages from the French to

the people, asking them to come up and be slaughtered for _la

patrie_, and sober, cool reports from the Prussians. I side with

the Prussians, for they sympathized with us in our war. Hooray

for old Pruss!...

France is having a bad time. Princess Clotilde passed through

Geneva the other day with loads of baggage, flying to Italy; and

last week a closed car with the imperial arms on it went by here

in the night,--supposed to be Matilde and other royal folks

flying away from Paris. The Prince Imperial has been sent home

from the seat of war; and poor Eugénie is doing her best to keep

things quiet in Paris. The French here say that a republic is

already talked of; and the Emperor is on his last legs in every

way. He is sick, and his doctor won't let him ride, and so

nervous he can't command the army as he wanted to. Poor old man!

one can't help pitying him when all his plans fail.

We still dawdle along, getting fat and hearty. The food is

excellent. A breakfast of coffee and tip-top bread, fresh butter,

with eggs or fried potatoes, at 8; a real French dinner at 1.30,

of soup, fish, meat, game, salad, sweet messes, and fruit, with

wine; and at 7 cold meat, salad, sauce, tea, and bread and

butter. It is grape time now, and for a few cents we get pounds,

on which we feast all day at intervals. We walk and play as well

as any one, and feel so well I ought to do something....

Fred and Jack would like to look out of my window now and see the

little boys playing in the lake. They are there all day long like

little pigs, and lie around on the warm stones to dry, splashing

one another for exercise. One boy, having washed himself, is now

washing his clothes, and all lying out to dry together....

Ever yours,

LU.

_To Anna._

VEVAY, Aug. 21, 1870.

I had such a droll dream last night I must tell you. I thought I

was returning to Concord after my trip, and was alone. As I

walked from the station I missed Mr. Moore's house, and turning

the corner, found the scene so changed that I did not know where

I was. Our house was gone, and in its place stood a great gray

stone castle, with towers and arches and lawns and bridges, very

fine and antique. Somehow I got into it without meeting any one

of you, and wandered about trying to find my family. At last I

came across Mr. Moore, papering a room, and asked him where his

house was. He didn't know me, and said,--

"Oh! I sold it to Mr. Alcott for his school, and we live in Acton

now."

"Where did Mr. Alcott get the means to build this great concern?"

I asked.

"Well, he _gave_ his own land, and took the great pasture his

daughter left him,--the one that died some ten years ago."

"So I am dead, am I?" says I to myself, feeling so queerly.

"Government helped build this place, and Mr. A. has a fine

college here," said Mr. Moore, papering away again.

I went on, wondering at the news, and looked into a glass to see

how I looked dead. I found myself a fat old lady, with gray hair

and specs,--very like E. P. P. I laughed, and coming to a Gothic

window, looked out and saw hundreds of young men and boys in a

queer flowing dress, roaming about the parks and lawns; and among

them was Pa, looking as he looked thirty years ago, with brown

hair and a big white neckcloth, as in the old times. He looked so

plump and placid and young and happy I was charmed to see him,

and nodded; but he didn't know me; and I was so grieved and

troubled at being a Rip Van Winkle, I cried, and said I had

better go away and not disturb any one,--and in the midst of my

woe, I woke up. It was all so clear and funny, I can't help

thinking that it may be a foreshadowing of something real. I used

to dream of being famous, and it has partly become true; so why

not Pa's college blossom, and he get young and happy with his

disciples? I only hope he won't quite forget me when I come back,

fat and gray and old. Perhaps his dream is to come in another

world, where everything is fresh and calm, and the reason why he

didn't recognize me was because I was still in this work-a-day

world, and so felt old and strange in this lovely castle in the

air. Well, he is welcome to my fortune; but the daughter who did

die ten years ago is more likely to be the one who helped him

build his School of Concord up aloft.

I can see how the dream came; for I had been looking at Silling's

boys in their fine garden, and wishing I could go in and know the

dear little lads walking about there, in the forenoon. I had got

a topknot at the barber's, and talked about my gray hairs, and

looking in the glass thought how fat and old I was getting, and

had shown the B.'s Pa's picture, which they thought saintly, etc.

I believe in dreams, though I am free to confess that

"cowcumbers" for tea may have been the basis of this

"ally-gorry-cal wision."...

As we know the Consul at Spezzia,--that is, we have letters to

him, as well as to many folks in Rome, etc.,--I guess we shall

go; for the danger of Europe getting into the fight is over now,

and we can sail to England or home any time from Italy.... Love

to every one.

Kiss my _cousin_ for me.

Ever your

LU.

_To Mr. Niles._

AUGUST 23, 1870.

Your note of August 2 has just come, with a fine budget of

magazines and a paper, for all of which many thanks.

* * * * *

Don't give my address to any one. I don't want the young ladies'

notes. They can send them to Concord, and I shall get them next

year.

* * * * *

The boys at Silling's school are a perpetual source of delight to

me; and I stand at the gate, like the Peri, longing to go in and

play with the lads. The young ladies who want to find live

Lauries can be supplied here, for Silling has a large assortment

always on hand.

My B. says she is constantly trying to incite me to literary

effort, but I hang fire. So I do,--but only that I may go off

with a bang by and by, _à la mitrailleuse_.

L. M. A.

_To her Family._

VEVAY, Aug. 29, 1870.

DEAR PEOPLE,--... M. Nicaud, the owner of this house,--a funny

old man, with a face so like a parrot that we call him M.

Perrot,--asked us to come and visit him at his _châlet_ up among

the hills. He is building a barn there, and stays to see that all

goes well; so we only see him on Sundays, when he convulses us by

his funny ways. Last week seven of us went up in a big landau,

and the old dear entertained us like a prince. We left the

carriage at the foot of a little steep path, and climbed up to

the dearest old _châlet_ we ever saw. Here Pa Nicaud met us, took

us up the outside steps into his queer little salon, and regaled

us with his sixty-year old wine and nice little cakes. We then

set forth, in spite of clouds and wind, to view the farm and

wood. It showered at intervals, but no one seemed to care; so we

trotted about under umbrellas, getting mushrooms, flowers, and

colds, viewing the Tarpeian Rock, and sitting on rustic seats to

enjoy the _belle vue_, which consisted of fog. It was such a

droll lark that we laughed and ran, and enjoyed the damp picnic

very much. Then we had a tip-top Swiss dinner, followed by

coffee, three sorts of wine, and cigars. Every one smoked, and as

it poured guns, the old Perrot had a blazing fire made, round

which we sat, talking many languages, singing, and revelling. We

had hardly got through dinner and seen another foggy view when

tea was announced, and we stuffed again, having pitchers of

cream, fruit, and a queer but very nice dish of slices of light

bread dipped in egg and fried, and eaten with sugar. The buxom

Swiss maid flew and grinned, and kept serving up some new mess

from her tiny dark kitchen. It cleared off, and we walked home in

spite of our immense exploits in the eating line. Old Perrot

escorted us part way down, and we gave three cheers for him as we

parted. Then we showed Madame and the French governess and Don

Juan (the Spanish boy) some tall walking, though the roads were

very steep and rough and muddy. We tramped some five miles; and

our party (May, A., the governess, and I) got home long before

Madame and Don Juan, who took a short cut, and wouldn't believe

that we didn't get a lift somehow. I felt quite proud of my old

pins; for they were not tired, and none the worse for the long

walk. I think they are really all right now, for the late cold

weather has not troubled them in the least; and I sleep--O ye

gods, how I do sleep!--ten or twelve hours sound, and get up so

drunk with dizziness it is lovely to see. Aint I grateful? Oh,

yes! oh, yes!

We began French lessons to-day, May and I, of the French

governess,--a kind old girl who only asks two francs a lesson. We

_must_ speak the language, for it is disgraceful to be so stupid;

so we have got to work, and mean to be able to _parlez-vous_ or

die. The war is still a nuisance, and we may be here some time,

and really need some work; for we are so lazy we shall be spoilt,

if we don't fall to....

I gave Count C. Pa's message, and he was pleased. He reads no

English, and is going to Hungary soon; so Pa had better not send

the book....

LU.

VEVAY, Sept. 10, 1870.

DEAR PEOPLE,--As all Europe seems to be going to destruction, I

hasten to drop a line before the grand smash arrives. We mean to

skip over the Alps next week, if weather and war permit; for we

are bound to see Milan and the lakes, even if we have to turn and

come back without a glimpse of Rome. The Pope is beginning to

perk up; and Italy and England and Russia seem ready to join in

the war, now that France is down. Think of Paris being bombarded

and smashed up like Strasbourg. We never shall see the grand old

cathedral at Strasbourg now, it is so spoilt.

Vevay is crammed with refugees from Paris and Strasbourg. Ten

families applied here yesterday....

Our house is brimful, and we have funny times. The sick Russian

lady and her old Ma make a great fuss if a breath of air comes in

at meal times, and expect twenty people to sit shut tight in a

smallish room for an hour on a hot day. We protested, and Madame

put them in the parlor, where they glower as we pass, and lock

the door when they can. The German Professor is learning English,

and is a quiet, pleasant man. The Polish General, a little

cracked, is very droll, and bursts out in the middle of the

general chat with stories about transparent apples and golden

horses.... Benda, the crack book-and-picture man, has asked May

if she was the Miss Alcott who wrote the popular books; for he

said he had many calls for them, and wished to know where they

could be found. We told him "at London," and felt puffed up....

May and I delve away at French; but it makes my head ache, and I

don't learn enough to pay for the trouble. I never could _study_,

you know, and suffer such agony when I try that it is piteous to

behold. The little brains I have left I want to keep for future

works, and not exhaust them on grammar,--vile invention of Satan!

May gets on slowly, and don't have fits after it; so she had

better go on (the lessons only cost two francs)....

L. M. A.

_To her Mother._

LAGO DI COMO, Oct. 8, 1870.

DEAREST MARMEE,--A happy birthday, and many of 'em! Here we

actually are in the long-desired Italy, and find it as lovely as

we hoped. Our journey was a perfect success,--sunlight,

moonlight, magnificent scenery, pleasant company, no mishaps, and

one long series of beautiful pictures all the way.

Crossing the Simplon is an experience worth having; for without

any real danger, fatigue, or hardship, one sees some of the

finest as well as most awful parts of these wonderful Alps.

The road,--a miracle in itself! for all Nature seems to protest

against it, and the elements never tire of trying to destroy it.

Only a Napoleon would have dreamed of making a path through such

a place; and he only cared for it as a way to get his men and

cannon into an enemy's country by this truly royal road.

May has told you about our trip; so I will only add a few bits

that she forgot.

Our start in the dawn from Brieg, with two diligences, a

carriage, and a cart, was something between a funeral and a

caravan: first an immense diligence with seven horses, then a

smaller one with four, then our _calèche_ with two, and finally

the carrier's cart with one. It was very exciting,--the general

gathering of sleepy travellers in the dark square, the tramping

of horses, the packing in, the grand stir of getting off; then

the slow winding up, up, up out of the valley toward the sun,

which came slowly over the great hills, rising as we never saw it

rise before. The still, damp pine-forests kept us in shadow a

long time after the white mountain-tops began to shine. Little by

little we wound through a great gorge, and then the sun came

dazzling between these grand hills, showing us a new world. Peak

after peak of the Bernese Oberland rose behind us, and great

white glaciers lay before us; while the road crept like a narrow

line, in and out over chasms that made us dizzy to look at, under

tunnels, and through stone galleries with windows over which

dashed waterfalls from the glaciers above. Here and there were

refuges, a hospice, and a few _châlets_, where shepherds live

their wild, lonely lives. In the P.M. we drove rapidly down

toward Italy through the great Valley of Gondo,--a deep rift in

rock thousands of feet deep, and just wide enough for the road

and a wild stream that was our guide; a never-to-be-forgotten

place, and a fit gateway to Italy, which soon lay smiling below

us. The change is very striking; and when we came to Lago

Maggiore lying in the moonlight we could only sigh for happiness,

and love and look and look. After a good night's rest at Stresa,

we went in a charming gondola-sort of boat to see Isola

Bella,--the island you see in the chromo over the fireplace at

home,--a lovely island, with famous castle, garden, and town on

it. The day was as balmy as summer, and we felt like butterflies

after a frost, and fluttered about, enjoying the sunshine all

day.

A sail by steamer brought us to Luino, where we went on the

diligence to Lugano. Moonlight all the way, and a gay driver, who

wound his horn as we clattered into market-places and over

bridges in the most gallant style. The girls were on top, and in

a state of rapture all the way. After supper in a vaulted,

frescoed hall, with marble floors, pillars, and galleries, we

went to a room which had green doors, red carpet, blue walls, and

yellow bed-covers,--all so gay! It was like sleeping in a

rainbow.

As if a heavenly lake under our windows with moonlight _ad

libitum_ wasn't enough, we had music next door; and on leaning

out of a little back window, we made the splendid discovery that

we could look on to the stage of the opera-house across a little

alley. My Nan can imagine with what rapture I stared at the

scenes going on below me, and how I longed for her as I stood

there wrapped in my yellow bed-quilt, and saw gallant knights in

armor warble sweetly to plump ladies in masks, or pretty peasants

fly wildly from ardent lovers in red tights; also a dishevelled

maid who tore her hair in a forest, while a man aloft made

thunder and lightning,--and _I saw him do it_!

It was the climax to a splendid day; for few travellers can go to

the opera luxuriously in their night-gowns, and take naps between

the acts as I did.

A lovely sail next morning down the lake; then a carriage to

Menaggio; and then a droll boat, like a big covered market-wagon

with a table and red-cushioned seats, took us and our trunks to

Cadenabbia, for there is only a donkey road to the little town.

At the hotel on the edge of the lake we found Nelly L., a sweet

girl as lovely as Minnie, and so glad to see us; for since her

mother died in Venice last year she has lived alone with her

maid. She had waited for us, and next day went to Milan, where

we join her on Monday. She paints; and May and she made plans at

once to study together, and enjoy some of the free art-schools at

Milan and Naples or Florence, if we can all be together. It is a

great chance for May, and I mean she shall have a good time, and

not wait for tools and teachers; for all is in the way of her

profession, and of use to her.

Cadenabbia is only two hotels and a few villas opposite Bellagio,

which is a town, and fashionable. We were rowed over to see it by

our boatman, who spends his time at the front of the stone steps

before the hotel, and whenever we go out he tells us, "The lake

is tranquil; the hour is come for a walk on the water," and is as

coaxing as only an Italian can be. He is amiably tipsy most of

the time.

To-day it rains so we cannot go out, and I rest and write to my

Marmee in a funny room with a stone floor inlaid till it looks

like castile soap, a ceiling in fat cupids and trumpeting

fairies, a window on the lake, with balcony, etc. Hand-organs

with jolly singing boys jingle all day, and two big bears go by

led by a man with a drum. The boys would laugh to see them dance

on their hind legs, and shoulder sticks like soldiers.

... All looks well, and if the winter goes on rapidly and

pleasantly as the summer we shall soon be thinking of home,

unless one of us decides to stay. I shall post this at Milan

to-morrow, and hope to find letters there from you. By-by till

then.

_Journal._

_October_, 1870.--A memorable month.... Off for Italy on the 2d.

A splendid journey over the Alps and Maggiore by moonlight.

Heavenly days at the lakes, and so to Milan, Parma, Pisa,

Bologna, and Florence. Disappointed in some things, but found

Nature always lovely and wonderful; so didn't mind faded

pictures, damp rooms, and the cold winds of "sunny Italy." Bought

furs at Florence, and arrived in Rome one rainy night.

_November 10th._--In Rome, and felt as if I had been there before

and knew all about it. Always oppressed with a sense of sin,

dirt, and general decay of all things. Not well; so saw things

through blue glasses. May in bliss with lessons, sketching, and

her dreams. A. had society, her house, and old friends. The

artists were the best company; counts and princes very dull, what

we saw of them. May and I went off on the Campagna, and

criticised all the world like two audacious Yankees.

Our apartment in Piazza Barbarini was warm and cosey; and I

thanked Heaven for it, as it rained for two months, and my first

view most of the time was the poor Triton with an icicle on his

nose.

We pay $60 a month for six good rooms, and $6 a month for a girl,

who cooks and takes care of us.

_29th._--My thirty-eighth birthday. May gave me a pretty sketch,

and A. a fine nosegay.

In Rome Miss Alcott was shocked and grieved by the news of the death

of her well-beloved brother-in-law, Mr. Pratt. She has drawn so

beautiful a picture of him in "Little Women" and in "Little Men," that

it is hardly needful to dwell upon his character or the grief which

his death caused her. With her usual care for others, her thoughts at

once turned to the support of the surviving family, and she found

comfort in writing "Little Men" with the thought of the dear sister

and nephews constantly in her heart.

In spite of this great sorrow and anxiety for the dear ones at home,

the year of travel was very refreshing to her. Her companions were

congenial, she took great delight in her sister's work, and she was

independent in her plans, and could go whither and when she would.

The voyage home was a hard one; there was small-pox on board, but Miss

Alcott fortunately escaped the infection. "Little Men" was out the day

she arrived, as a bright red placard in the carriage announced, and

besides all the loving welcomes from family and friends, she received

the pleasing news that fifty thousand of the books were already sold.

But the old pains and weariness came home with her also. She could not

stay in Concord, and went again to Boston, hoping to rest and work.

Her young sister came home to brighten up the family with her hopeful,

helpful spirit.

At forty years of age Louisa had accomplished the task she set for

herself in youth. By unceasing toil she had made herself and her

family independent; debts were all paid, and enough was invested to

preserve them from want. And yet wants seemed to increase with their

satisfaction, and she felt impelled to work enough to give to all the

enjoyments and luxuries which were fitted to them after the

necessaries were provided for. It may be that her own exhausted

nervous condition made it impossible for her to rest, and the demand

which she fancied came from without was the projection of her own

thought.

_Journal._

1871.--_Rome._--Great inundation. Streets flooded, churches with

four feet of water in them, and queer times for those who were in

the overflowed quarters. Meals hoisted up at the window; people

carried across the river-like streets to make calls; and all

manner of funny doings. We were high and dry at Piazza Barbarini,

and enjoyed the flurry.

To the Capitol often, to spend the A.M. with the Roman emperors

and other great men. M. Aurelius as a boy was fine; Cicero looked

very like W. Phillips; Agrippina in her chair was charming; but

the other ladies, with hair _à la sponge_, were ugly; Nero & Co.

a set of brutes and bad men. But a better sight to me was the

crowd of poor people going to get the bread and money sent by the

king; and the splendid snow-covered hills were finer than the

marble beauty inside. Art tires; Nature never.

Professor Pierce and his party just from Sicily, where they had

been to see the eclipse,--all beaming with delight, and well

repaid for the long journey by a _two minutes'_ squint at the sun

when darkest.

Began to write a new book, "Little Men," that John's death may

not leave A. and the dear little boys in want. John took care

that they should have enough while the boys are young, and worked

very hard to have a little sum to leave, without a debt anywhere.

In writing and thinking of the little lads, to whom I must be a

father now, I found comfort for my sorrow. May went on with her

lessons, "learning," as she wisely said, how little she knew and

how to go on.

_February._--A gay month in Rome, with the carnival, artists'

fancy ball, many parties, and much calling.

Decided to leave May for another year, as L. sends $700 on

"Moods," and the new book will provide $1,000 for the dear girl;

so she may be happy and free to follow her talent.

_March._--Spent at Albano. A lovely place. Walk, write, and rest.

A troop of handsome officers from Turin, who clatter by, casting

soft glances at my two blonde signorinas, who enjoy it very

much.[11] Baron and Baroness Rothschild were there, and the W.'s

from Philadelphia, Dr. O. W. and wife, and S. B. Mrs. W. and A.

B. talk _all day_, May sketches, I write, and so we go on. Went

to look at rooms at the Bonapartes.

_April._--Venice. Floated about for two weeks seeing sights. A

lovely city for a short visit. Not enough going on to suit brisk

Americans. May painted, A. hunted up old jewelry and friends, and

I dawdled after them.

A very interesting trip to London,--over the Brenner Pass to

Munich, Cologne, Antwerp, and by boat to London.

_May._--A busy month. Settled in lodgings, Brompton Road, and

went sight-seeing. Mrs. P. Taylor, Conway, and others very kind.

Enjoyed showing May my favorite places and people.

A. B. went home on the 11th, after a pleasant year with us. I am

glad to know her, for she is true and very interesting. May took

lessons of Rowbotham and was happy. "Little Men" came out in

London.

I decided to go home on the 25th, as I am needed. A very pleasant

year in spite of constant pain, John's death, and home anxieties.

Very glad I came, for May's sake. It has been a very useful year

for her.

_June._--After an anxious passage of twelve days, got safely

home. Small-pox on board, and my room-mate, Miss D., very ill. I

escaped, but had a sober time lying next door to her, waiting to

see if my turn was to come. She was left at the island, and I

went up the harbor with Judge Russell, who took some of us off in

his tug.

Father and T. N. came to meet me with a great red placard of

"Little Men" pinned up in the carriage. After due precautions,

hurried home and found all well. My room refurnished and much

adorned by Father's earnings.

Nan well and calm, but under her sweet serenity is a very sad

soul, and she mourns for her mate like a tender turtle-dove.

The boys were tall, bright lads, devoted to Marmee, and the life

of the house.

Mother feeble and much aged by this year of trouble. I shall

never go far away from her again. Much company, and loads of

letters, all full of good wishes and welcome.

"Little Men" was out the day I arrived. Fifty thousand sold

before it was out.

A happy month, for I felt well for the first time in two years. I

knew it wouldn't last, but enjoyed it heartily while it did, and

was grateful for rest from pain and a touch of the old

cheerfulness. It was much needed at home.

_July, August, September._--Sick. Holiday soon over. Too much

company and care and change of climate upset the poor nerves

again. Dear Uncle S. J. May died; our best friend for years.

Peace to his ashes. He leaves a sweeter memory behind him than

any man I know. Poor Marmee is the last of her family now.

_October._--Decided to go to B.; Concord is so hard for me, with

its dampness and worry. Get two girls to do the work, and leave

plenty of money and go to Beacon Street to rest and try to get

well that I may work. A lazy life, but it seemed to suit; and

anything is better than the invalidism I hate worse than death.

Bones ached less, and I gave up morphine, as sunshine, air, and

quiet made sleep possible without it. Saw people, pictures,

plays, and read all I could, but did not enjoy much, for the

dreadful weariness of nerves makes even pleasure hard.

_November._--May sent pleasant letters and some fine copies of

Turner. She decides to come home, as she feels she is needed as I

give out. Marmee is feeble, Nan has her boys and her sorrow, and

one strong head and hand is wanted at home. A year and a half of

holiday is a good deal, and duty comes first always. Sorry to

call her back, but her eyes are troublesome, and housework will

rest them and set her up. Then she can go again when I am better,

for I don't want her to be thwarted in her work more than just

enough to make her want it very much.

On the 19th she came. Well, happy, and full of sensible plans. A

lively time enjoying the cheerful element she always brings into

the house. Piles of pictures, merry adventures, and interesting

tales of the fine London lovers.

Kept my thirty-ninth and Father's seventy-second birthday in the

old way.

Thanksgiving dinner at Pratt Farm. All well and all together.

Much to give thanks for.

_December._--Enjoyed my quiet, sunny room very much; and this

lazy life seems to suit me, for I am better, mind and body. All

goes well at home, with May to run the machine in her cheery,

energetic style, and amuse Marmee and Nan with gay histories. Had

a furnace put in, and all enjoyed the new climate. No more

rheumatic fevers and colds, with picturesque open fires. Mother

is to be cosey if money can do it. She seems to be now, and my

long-cherished dream has come true; for she sits in a pleasant

room, with no work, no care, no poverty to worry, but peace and

comfort all about her, and children glad and able to stand

between trouble and her. Thank the Lord! I like to stop and

"remember my mercies." Working and waiting for them makes them

very welcome.

Went to the ball for the Grand Duke Alexis. A fine sight, and the

big blonde boy the best of all. Would dance with the pretty

girls, and leave the Boston dowagers and their diamonds in the

lurch.

To the Radical Club, where the philosophers mount their hobbies

and prance away into time and space, while we gaze after them and

try to look wise.

A merry Christmas at home. Tree for the boys, family dinner, and

frolic in the evening.

A varied, but on the whole a good year, in spite of pain. Last

Christmas we were in Rome, mourning for John. What will next

Christmas bring forth? I have no ambition now but to keep the

family comfortable and not ache any more. Pain has taught me

patience, I hope, if nothing more.

_January_, 1872.--Roberts Brothers paid $4,400 as six months'

receipts for the books. A fine New Year's gift. S. E. S. invested

$3,000, and the rest I put in the bank for family needs. Paid for

the furnace and all the bills. What bliss it is to be able to do

that and ask no help!

* * * * *

Mysterious bouquets came from some unknown admirer or friend.

Enjoyed them very much, and felt quite grateful and romantic as

day after day the lovely great nosegays were handed in by the

servant of the unknown.

_February and March._--At Mrs. Stowe's desire, wrote for the

"Christian Union" an account of our journey through France, and

called it "Shawl Straps."... Many calls and letters and

invitations, but I kept quiet, health being too precious to risk,

and sleep still hard to get for the brain that would work instead

of rest.

Heard lectures,--Higginson, Bartol, Frothingham, and Rabbi

Lilienthal. Much talk about religion. I'd like to see a little

more really _lived_.

_April and May._--Wrote another sketch for the "Independent,"--"A

French Wedding;" and the events of my travels paid my winter's

expenses. All is fish that comes to the literary net. Goethe puts

his joys and sorrows into poems; I turn my adventures into bread

and butter.

* * * * *

_June_, 1872.--Home, and begin a new task. Twenty years ago I

resolved to make the family independent if I could. At forty that

is done. Debts all paid, even the outlawed ones, and we have

enough to be comfortable. It has cost me my health, perhaps; but

as I still live, there is more for me to do, I suppose.

FOOTNOTES:

[8] Betsey Prig was a pet name for her sister, as she herself was

Sairey Gamp.

[9] This was a family joke as Mrs. Alcott always ended her

instructions to her children "in case of fire."

[10] This is the poem prefixed to the chapter.

[11] See Shawl Straps, p. 179.