PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS AND EXPERIENCES

The difficulty comes when we attempt to give the racial character of

Central Macedonia, which is equally remote from Greece, Bulgaria,

and Servia. I travelled through this district last summer. On June

29, when the war broke out between the Allies I found myself in

Uskub. Through the courtesy of the Servian authorities I was

permitted to ride on the first military train which left the city.

Descending at Veles I drove across Central Macedonia by way of

Prilip to Monastir, spending the first night, for lack of a better

bed, in the carriage, which was guarded by Servian sentries. From

Monastir I motored over execrable roads to Lake Presba and Lake

Ochrida and thence beyond the city of Ochrida to Struga on the Black

Drin, from which I looked out on the mountains of Albania.

Coming from Athens where for many months I had listened to patriotic

stories of the thorough permeation of Macedonia by Greek settlements

my first surprise was my inability to discover a Greek majority in

Central Macedonia. In most of the cities a fraction of the

population indeed is Greek and as a rule the colony is prosperous.

This is especially true in Monastir, which is a stronghold of Greek

influence. But while half the population of Monastir is Mohammedan

the so-called Bulgarians form the majority of the Christian

population, though both Servians and Roumanians have conducted

energetic propaganda. In Veles two-thirds of the population are

Christians and nearly all of these are called Bulgarians. In Ochrida

the lower town is Mohammedan and the upper Christian, and the

Christian population is almost exclusively of the Bulgarian Church.

It does not follow, however, that the people of Central Macedonia,

even if Bulgarian churches are in the ascendant among them, are

really connected by ties of blood and language with Bulgaria rather

than with Servia. If history is invoked we shall have to admit that

under Dushan this region was a part of the Serb empire as under

Simeon and Asen it was part of the Bulgarian. If an appeal is made

to anthropology the answer is still uncertain. For while the

Mongolian features--broad flat faces, narrow eyes, and straight

black hair--which characterize the subjects of King Ferdinand can be

seen--I myself have seen them--as far west as Ochrida, they may also

be found all over Northern Servia as far as Belgrade though the

Servian physical type is entirely different. There is no fixed

connection between the anthropological unit and the linguistic or

political unit. Furthermore, while there are well-marked groups who

call themselves Serbs or Bulgarians there is a larger population not

so clearly differentiated by physique or language. Undoubtedly they

are Slavs. But whether Serb or Bulgarian, or intermediate between

the two, no one to-day can demonstrate. Central Macedonia has its

own dialects, any one of which under happy literary auspices might

have developed into a separate language. And the men who speak them

to-day can more or less understand either Servian or Bulgarian.

Hence as the anonymous and highly authoritative author of "Turkey in

Europe," who calls himself Odysseus, declares:

"The practical conclusion is that neither Greeks, Servians, nor

Bulgarians have a right to claim Central Macedonia. The fact that

they all do so shows how weak each claim must be."

Yet it was Bulgaria's intransigent assertion of her claim to Central

Macedonia which led to the war between the Allies.

It will be instructive to consider the attitude of each of the

governments concerned on the eve of the conflict. I hope I am in a

position correctly to report it. Certainly I had unusual

opportunities to learn it. For besides the official position I held

in Athens during the entire course of both Balkan wars I visited the

Balkan states in June and was accorded the privilege of discussing

the then pending crisis with the prime ministers of Roumania,

Servia, and Bulgaria. It would of course be improper to quote them;

nay more, I feel myself under special obligation sacredly to respect

the confidence they reposed in me. But the frank disclosures they

made in these conversations gave me a point of view for the

comprehension of the situation and the estimate of facts which I

have found simply invaluable. And if Mr. Venizelos in Athens, or Mr.

Maioresco in Bukarest, or Mr. Pashitch in Belgrade, or Dr. Daneff,

who is no longer prime minister of Bulgaria, should ever chance to

read what I am saying, I hope each will feel that I have fairly and

impartially presented the attitude which their respective

governments had taken at this critical moment on the vital issue

then confronting them.

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