The Stationers' Company was incorporated in 1557; it exercised a virtual

monopoly of printing almanacs under a charter of James I. until 1775, when

the judges of the Court of Common Pleas decided that their professed

patent of monopoly was worthless, the Crown having no power to grant any

such exclusive right. Doubtless many another archaic statute is of a like

invalidity did but some protestful person choose to take issue therewith.

The number of freemen of the company is about 1,100; that of the livery

about 450. Printers were formerly obliged to be apprenticed to a member of

the company, and all publications for copyright must be entered at their

hall. The register of the works so entered for publication commenced from

1557, and is valuable for the light it throws on many points of literary

history. The Copyright Act imposes on the company the additional duty of

registering all assignments of copyrights. The charities of the company

are numerous. In Dickens' time Almanac Day (November 22d) was a busy day

at the hall, but the great interest in this species of astrological

superstition has waned, and, generally speaking, this day, like all

others, is of great quietude and repose in these noble halls, where

bewhiskered functionaries amble slowly through the routine in which blue

paper documents with bright orange coloured stamps form the only note of

liveliness in the entire _ensemble_.

The Goldsmiths' Company assays all the gold and silver plate manufactured

in the metropolis, and stamps it with the "hall-mark," which varies each

year, so it is thus possible to tell exactly the year in which any piece

of London plate was produced.

The out-of-door amusements of society were at this time, as now, made much

of. The turf, cricket, and riding to hounds being those functions which

took the Londoner far afield. Nearer at home were the charms of Richmond,

with its river, and the Star and Garter, and the Great Regatta at Henley,

distinctly an affair of the younger element.

Tea-gardens, once highly popular, had fallen into disrepute so far as

"society" was concerned. Bagnigge Wells, Merlin's Cave, the London Spa,

Marylebone Gardens, Cromwell's Gardens, Jenny's Whim, were all

tea-gardens, with recesses, and avenues, and alcoves for love-making and

tea-drinking, where an orchestra discoursed sweet music or an organ served

as a substitute. An intelligent foreigner, who had published an account of

his impressions of England, remarked: "The English take a great delight in

the public gardens, near the metropolis, where they assemble and drink tea

together in the open air. The number of these in the capital is amazing,

and the order, regularity, neatness, and even elegance of them are truly

admirable. They are, however, very rarely frequented by people of fashion;

but the middle and lower ranks go there often, and seem much delighted

with the music of an organ, which is usually played in an adjoining

building."

Vauxhall, the _Arabia Felix_ of the youth of the eighteenth and nineteenth

centuries, was still a fashionable resort, "a very pandemonium of society

immorality," says a historian. This can well be believed if the many

stories current concerning "prince, duke, and noble, and much mob

besides," are accepted.

"_Here the 'prentice from Aldgate may ogle a toast!_

_Here his Worship must elbow the knight of the post!_

_For the wicket is free to the great and the small;--_

_Sing_ Tantarara--_Vauxhall! Vauxhall!_"

The first authentic notice of Vauxhall Gardens appears in the record of

the Duchy of Cornwall in 1615, when for two hundred years, through the

changes of successive ages, there was conducted a round of gaiety and

abandon unlike any other Anglo-Saxon institution. Open, generally, only

during the summer months, the entertainment varied from vocal and

instrumental music to acrobats, "burlettas," "promenades," and other

attractions of a more intellectual nature, and, it is to be feared,

likewise of a lesser as well.

The exhibition usually wound up with a display of fireworks, set off at

midnight. From 1830 to 1850 the gardens were at the very height of their

later festivity, but during the next decade they finally sank into

insignificance, and at last flickered out in favour of the more staid and

sad amusements of the later Victorian period.

As for the indoor pleasures of society at this time, there were the

theatre, the opera, and the concert-room. Dining at a popular restaurant

or a gigantic hotel had not been thought of. There were, to be sure, the

"assembly-rooms" and the "supper-rooms," but there were many more

establishments which catered to the pleasures of the masculine mind and

taste than provided a fare of food and amusement which was acceptable to

the feminine palate.

Of the men's clubs, Brookes' and White's had long been established, and,

though of the proprietary order, were sufficiently attractive and

exclusive to have become very popular and highly successful. The other

class were those establishments which fulfil the true spirit and province

of a club,--where an association of gentlemen join together in the expense

of furnishing accommodation of refreshment and reading and lounging rooms.

This was the basis on which the most ambitious clubs were founded; what

they have degenerated into, in some instances, would defy even a rash man

to attempt to diagnose, though many are still run on the conservative

lines which do not open their doors to strangers, even on introduction,

as with the famous Athenæum Club.

Other clubs, whose names were already familiar in the London of Dickens'

day, were the Carleton, Conservative, Reform, University, and perhaps a

score of others.

As is well known, Dickens was an inordinate lover of the drama, a patron

of the theatre himself, and an amateur actor of no mean capabilities. As

early as 1837 he had written an operetta, "The Village Coquettes," which

he had dedicated to Harley. It was performed, for the first time, on

December 6, 1836, at the St. James' Theatre. A London collector possesses

the original "hand-bill," announcing a performance of "Used Up" and "Mr.

Nightingale's Diary," at the Philharmonic Hall, Liverpool, in 1852, in

which Dickens, Sir John Tenniel, and Mark Lemon took part; also a playbill

of the performance of "The Frozen Deep," at the "Gallery of Illustration,"

on Regent Street, on July 4, 1857, "by Charles Dickens and his amateur

company before Queen Victoria and the Royal Family."

The painting (1846) by C. R. Leslie, R. A., of Dickens as Captain Boabdil,

in Ben Jonson's play of "Every Man in His Humour," is familiar to all

Dickens lovers.

The theatres of London, during the later years of Dickens' life, may be

divided into two classes: those which were under "royal patronage," and

those more or less independent theatres which, if ever visited by royalty,

were favoured with more or less unexpected and infrequent visits.

Of the first class, where the aristocracy, and the royal family as well,

were pretty sure to be found at all important performances, the most

notable were "Her Majesty's," "The Royal Italian Opera House," "The

Theatre Royal, Drury Lane." Of the latter class, the most famous--and who

shall not say the most deservedly so--were the "Haymarket Theatre," "The

Adelphi," "The Lyceum," and the "St. James' Theatre."

[Illustration: "GOING TO THE PANTOMIME."

_From a drawing by John Leech._]

"Her Majesty's Theatre," on the western side of the Haymarket, was the

original of the two Italian opera-houses in London; it was built in 1790,

on the site of an older theatre, burnt down in 1867, and rebuilt in 1869.

The freehold of some of the boxes was sold for as much as £8,000 each. The

opera season was generally from March to August; but the main attractions

and the largest audiences were found from May to July. The "Royal Italian

Opera House" occupied the site of the former Covent Garden Theatre, as it

does to-day, and was built in 1858 on the ruins of one destroyed by

fire. The building is very remarkable, both within and without. Italian

opera was produced here with a completeness scarcely paralleled in Europe.

When not required for Italian operas, the building was often occupied by

an "English Opera Company," or occasionally for miscellaneous concerts.

The "Floral Hall" adjoins this theatre on the Covent Garden side. "Drury

Lane Theatre," the fourth on the same site, was built in 1812; its glories

live in the past, for the legitimate drama now alternates there with

entertainments of a more spectacular and melodramatic character, and the

Christmas pantomimes, that purely indigenous English institution. The

"Haymarket Theatre," exactly opposite "Her Majesty's," was built in 1821;

under Mr. Buckstone's management, comedy and farce were chiefly performed.

The "Adelphi Theatre," in the Strand, near Southampton Street, was rebuilt

in 1858, when it had for a quarter of a century been celebrated for

melodramas, and for the attractiveness of its comic actors. The "Lyceum

Theatre," or "English Opera House," at the corner of Wellington Street,

Strand, was built in 1834 as an English opera-house, but its fortunes were

fluctuating, and the performances not of a definite kind. This was the

house latterly taken over by Sir Henry Irving. The "Princess' Theatre," on

the north side of Oxford Street, was built in 1830; after a few years of

opera and miscellaneous dramas, it became the scene of Mr. Charles Kean's

Shakespearian revivals, and now resembles most of the other theatres. "St.

James' Theatre," in King Street, St. James', was built for Braham, the

celebrated singer. "The Olympic" was a small house in Wych Street, Drury

Lane, now destroyed. "The Strand Theatre" was famous for its burlesque

extravaganzas, a form of theatrical amusement which of late has become

exceedingly popular. The "New Globe Theatre" (destroyed so late as 1902)

and "The Gaiety" (at the stage entrance of which are the old offices of

_Good Words_, so frequently made use of by Dickens in the later years of

his life), and "The Vaudeville," were given over to musical comedy and

farce. "The Adelphi," though newly constructed at that time, was then, as

now, the home of melodrama.

Others still recognized as popular and prosperous houses were "The Court

Theatre," Sloane Square; "The Royalty," in Soho; "The Queen's," in

Longacre; "The Prince of Wales'," in Tottenham Street, formerly the

Tottenham Theatre. Robertson's comedies of "Caste," "Our Boys," etc., were

favourite pieces there. "Sadler's Wells," "Marylebone Theatre," "The

Brittania," at Hoxton, "The Standard," in Shoreditch, and "The Pavilion,"

in Whitechapel, were all notable for size and popularity, albeit those

latterly mentioned were of a cheaper class.

South of the river were "Astley's," an old amphitheatre, "The Surrey

Theatre," and "The Victoria."

At this time (1870) it was estimated that four thousand persons were

employed in London theatres, supporting twelve thousand persons. The

public expenditure thereon was estimated at £350,000 annually.

Of "concert rooms," there were "Exeter Hall," "St. James' Hall," "Hanover

Square Rooms," "Floral Hall," connected with the Covent Garden Opera,

"Willis' Rooms," and the "Queen's Concert Rooms," connected with "Her

Majesty's Theatre."

Here were given the performances of such organizations as "The Sacred

Harmonic Society," "The Philharmonic Society," "The Musical Union," and

the "Glee and Madrigal Societies," "The Beethoven Society," and others.

"Entertainments," an indefinite and mysterious word, something akin to the

_olla podrida_ of sunny Spain, abounded.

Usually they were a sort of musical or sketch entertainment, thoroughly

innocuous, and, while attaining a certain amount of popularity and

presumably success to their projectors, were of a nature only amusing to

the completely ennuied or juvenile temperament. Readings by various

persons, more or less celebrated, not forgetting the name of Dickens,

attracted, properly enough, huge crowds, who were willing to pay high

prices to hear a popular author interpret his works. A species of

lion-taming, which, if not exactly exciting, is harmless and withal

edifying. The last two varieties of entertainment usually took place in

the "Egyptian Hall," in Piccadilly, "St. James' Hall," or "The Gallery of

Illustration" in Regent Street.

Of miscellaneous amusements, appealing rather more to the middle class

than the actual society element,--if one really knows what species of

human being actually makes up that vague body,--were such attractions as

were offered by "Madame Tussaud's Waxwork Exhibition," which suggests at

once to the lover of Dickens Mrs. Jarley's similar establishment, and such

industrial exhibitions as took place from time to time, the most important

of the period of which this book treats being, of course, the first great

International Exhibition, held in Hyde Park in 1851.

Further down the social scale the amusements were a variation only of

degree, not of kind.

The lower classes had their coffee-shops and, supposedly, in some degree

the gin-palaces, which however, mostly existed in the picturesque

vocabulary of the "smug" reformer.

The tavern, the chop-house, and the dining-room were variants only of the

"assembly-rooms," the "clubs," and the grand establishments of the upper

circles, and in a way performed the same function,--provided entertainment

for mankind.

As for amusements pure and simple, there was the "music-hall," which,

quoting a mid-Victorian writer, was a place where held forth a "_species

of musical performance, a singular compound of poor foreign music, but

indifferently executed, and interspersed with comic songs of a most

extravagant kind, to which is added or interpolated what the performers

please to term 'nigger' dances, athletic and rope-dancing feats, the whole

accompanied by much drinking and smoking_." Which will pass as a good

enough description to apply to certain establishments of this class

to-day, but which, in reality, loses considerable of its force by reason

of its slurring resentment of what was in a way an invasion of a foreign

custom which might be expected, sooner or later, to crowd out the

conventional and sad amusements which in the main held forth, and which in

a measure has since taken place. The only bearing that the matter has to

the subject of this book is that some large numbers of the great public

which, between sunset and its sleeping hours, must perforce be amused in

some way, is to-day, as in days gone by, none too particular as to what

means are taken to accomplish it.

There is a definite species of depravity which is supposed to be

peculiarly the attribute of the lower classes. If it exists at all to-day,

it probably does lie with the lower classes, but contemporary opinion

points to the fact that it was not alone in those days the lower classes

who sought enjoyment from the cockpit, the dog fight, the prize ring, or

the more ancient bull-baiting, all of which existed to some degree in the

early nineteenth century. Truly the influence of the Georges on society,

of whatever class, must have been cruelly debasing, and it was not to be

expected that the early years of Victoria's reign should have been able to

eradicate it thoroughly, and though such desires may never be entirely

abolished, they are, in the main, not publicly recognized or openly

permitted to-day, a fact which is greatly to the credit of the improved

taste of the age in which we live.

Formerly it was said that there was but one class of hotels in and near

London of which the charges could be stated with any degree of precision.

The _old_ hotels, both at the West End and in the City, kept no printed

tariff, and were not accustomed even to be asked beforehand as to their

charges. Most of the visitors were more or less _recommended_ by guests

who had already sojourned at these establishments, and who could give

information as to what _they_ had paid. Some of the hotels declined even

to receive guests except by previous written application, or by direct

introduction, and would rather be without those who would regard the bill

with economical scrutiny.

Of these old-fashioned hotels,--barbarous relics of another day,--few are

to be found now, and, though existing in reality, are being fast robbed of

their _clientièle_, which demand something more in the way of

conveniences--with no diminution of comforts--than it were possible to get

in the two or three private houses thrown into one, and dubbed by the

smugly respectable title of "Private Hotel."

Other establishments did exist, it is true, in Dickens' time: "The Golden

Cross" and "Morley's," "Haxell's," and others of such class, from which

coaches still ran to near-by towns, and which houses catered principally

for the country visitor or the avowed commercially inclined. But aside

from these, and the exclusive and presumably extravagant class of smaller

houses, represented by such names as "Claridge's," "Fenton's," "Limner's,"

_et als._, there was no other accommodation except the "taverns" of

masculine propensities of Fleet Street and the City generally.

The great joint stock hotels, such as "The Metropole," "The Savoy," and

"The Cecil," did not come into being until well toward the end of Dickens'

life, if we except the excellent and convenient railway hotels, such as

made their appearance a few years earlier, as "Euston," "King's Cross,"

and "Victoria." The first of the really great modern _caravanserais_ are

best represented by those now somewhat out-of-date establishments, the

"Westminster Palace," "Inns of Court," "Alexandra," and others of the same

ilk, while such as the magnificently appointed group of hotels to be found

in the West Strand, Northumberland Avenue, or in Pall Mall were unthought

of.

The prevailing customs of an era, with respect to clubs, taverns,

coffee-houses, etc., mark signally the spirit of the age. The taverns of

London, properly so called, were, in the earliest days of their prime,

distinguished, each, for its particular class of visitors. The wits and

poets met at "Will's" in Covent Garden, and the politicians at "St. James'

Coffee-House," from which Steele often dated his _Tatler_. Later, in the

forties, there were perhaps five hundred houses of entertainment, as

distinguished from the ordinary "public house," or the more ambitious

hotel.

The "dining-rooms," "à la mode beef shops," and "chop-houses" abounded in

the "City," and with unvarying monotony served four, six, or ninepenny

"plates" with astonishing rapidity, quite rivalling in a way the modern

"quick lunch." The waiter was usually servile, and in such places as the

"Cheshire Cheese," "Simpson's," and "Thomas'," was and is still active. He

was a species of humanity chiefly distinguished for a cryptogrammatic

system of reckoning your account, and the possessor of as choice a crop of

beneath-the-chin whiskers as ever graced a Galway or a County Antrim

squireen.

The London City waiter, as distinguished from his brethren of the West

End, who are most Teutonic, is a unique character. Here is Leigh Hunt's

picture of one:

"He has no feeling of noise; even a loaf with him is hardly a loaf; it is

so many 'breads.' His longest speech is making out a bill _viva

voce_,--'Two beefs, one potato, three ales, two wines, six and two

pence.'"

A unique institution existed during the first quarter of the last

century. Some of Dickens' characters, if not Dickens himself, must have

known something of the sort. Charles Knight tells of more than one

establishment in the vicinity of the "Royal Exchange," where a sort of

public _gridiron_ was kept always at hand, for broiling a chop or steak

which had been bought by the customer himself at a neighbouring butcher's.

For this service, the small sum of a penny was charged, the profit to the

house probably arising from the sale of potable refreshments.

The houses which were famous for "fine old cheese," "baked potatoes,"

"mutton or pork pies," "sheep's trotters," or "pig's faces," were mostly

found, or, at least, were at their best, in the "City," though they formed

an humble and non-fastidious method of purveying to the demands of hunger,

in that the establishments catered, more particularly, to the economically

inclined, or even the poorer element of city workers.

The rise from these City eating-houses to the more ambitiously expensive

caterers of the "West End" was gradual. Prices and the appointments

increased as one journeyed westward through Fleet Street, the Strand, to

Piccadilly and Regent Street.

Another institution peculiar to London, in its plan and scope at least,

was the "coffee-house" of 1840, evolved from those of an earlier

generation, but performing, in a way, similar functions.

At this time a "House of Commons Committee of Inquiry into the Operation

of Import Duties"--as was its stupendous title--elicited some remarkable

facts concerning the fast increasing number of "coffee-houses," which had

grown from ten or twelve to eighteen hundred in twenty-five years. One

Pamphilon, who appears to have been the most successful, catering to five

hundred or more persons per day, gave evidence to the effect that his

house was frequented mostly by "lawyers, clerks, and commercial men, some

of them managing clerks, many solicitors, and highly respectable

gentlemen, who take coffee in the middle of the day in preference to a

more stimulating drink ... at the present moment, besides a great number

of newspapers every day, I am compelled to take in an increasing number of

high-class periodicals.... _I find there is an increasing demand for a

better class of reading._"

And thus we see, at that day, even as before and since, a very intimate

relation between good living and good reading. The practical person, the

wary pedant, and the supercritical will scoff at this, but let it stand.

The "cigar divans" and "chess rooms" were modifications, in a way, of the

"coffee-house," though serving mainly evening refreshment, coffee and a

"fine Havana" being ample for the needs of him who would ponder three or

four hours over a game of chess.

Of the stilly night, there was another class of peripatetic caterers, the

"sandwich man," the "baked 'tato man," the old women who served "hot

coffee" to coachmen, and the more ambitious "coffee-stall," which must

have been the progenitor of the "Owl Lunch" wagons of the United States.

The baked potato man was of Victorian growth, and speedily became a

recognized and popular functionary of his kind. His apparatus was not

cumbrous, and was gaudy with brightly polished copper, and a headlight

that flared like that of a modern locomotive. He sprang into being

somewhere in the neighbourhood of St. George's Fields, near "Guy's," Lant

Street, and Marshalsea of Dickenesque renown, and soon spread his

operations to every part of London.

The food supply of London and such social and economic problems as arise

out of it are usually ignored by the mere guide-book, and, like enough, it

will be assumed by many to have little to do with the purport of a volume

such as the present. As a matter of fact, in one way or another, it has a

great deal to do with the life of the day, using the word in its broadest

sense.

England, as is well recognized by all, is wholly subservient to the

conditions of trade, so far as edible commodities are concerned,

throughout the world. Its beef, its corn, and its flour mainly come from

America. Its teas, coffees, and spices mostly from other foreign nations,

until latterly, when India and Ceylon have come to the fore with regard to

the first named of these. Its mutton from New Zealand or Australia, and

even potatoes from France, butter and eggs from Denmark and Brittany,

until one is inclined to wonder what species of food product is really

indigenous to Britain. At any rate, London is a vast _caravanserai_ which

has daily to be fed and clothed with supplies brought from the outer

world.

In spite of the world-wide fame of the great markets of "Covent Garden,"

"Smithfield," and "Billingsgate," London is wofully deficient in those

intermediaries between the wholesaler and the consumer, the public market,

as it exists in most Continental cities and in America.

An article in the _Quarterly Review_, in Dickens' day,--and it may be

inferred things have only changed to a degree since that

time,--illustrated, in a whimsical way, the vastness of the supply

system. The following is described as the supply of meat, poultry, bread,

and beer, for one year: 72 miles of oxen, 10 abreast; 120 miles of sheep,

do.; 7 miles of calves, do.; 9 miles of pigs, do.; 50 acres of poultry,

close together; 20 miles of hares and rabbits, 100 abreast; a pyramid of

loaves of bread, 600 feet square, and thrice the height of St. Paul's;

1,000 columns of hogsheads of beer, each 1 mile high. In mere bulk this

perhaps does not convey the impression of large figures, but it is

certainly very expressive to imagine, for instance, that one has to eat

his way through 72 miles of oxen.

Dickens' London · 第 9 / 15 段