A MEETING WITH MULETEERS.

A little beyond the scene of their encounter with the woodcutters, the

path entered among the gorges of the mountains, and the level plains of

France were for a time lost to their view. The route they were

following was a mere bridle-track, quite impracticable for carriages,

but leading to one of the "ports" already mentioned, by which they could

pass through to the Spanish side. Through this port a considerable

traffic is carried on between the two countries--most of the carrying

being done by Spanish muleteers, who cross the mountains conducting

large trains of mules--all, except those upon which they themselves

ride, laden with packs and bales of merchandise.

That such a traffic was carried over this route, our Russian travellers

needed no other evidence than what came under their own eyes; for

shortly after, on rounding a point of rock, they saw before them a large

drove of mules, gaily caparisoned with red cloth and stamped leather,

and each carrying its pack. The gang had halted on a platform of no

great breadth; and the drivers--about a dozen men in all--were seen

seated upon the rocks, a little way in advance of the animals. Each

wore a capacious cloak of brown cloth--a favourite colour among the

Pyrenean Spaniards; and what with their swarthy complexions, bearded

lips, and wild attire, it would have been pardonable enough to have

mistaken them for a band of brigands, or, at all events, a party of

_contrabandistas_.

They were neither one nor the other, however; but honest Spanish

muleteers, on their way to a French market, with commodities produced on

the southern side of the mountains.

As our travellers came up, they were in the act of discussing a

luncheon, which consisted simply of black bread, tough goat's-milk

cheese, and thin Malaga wine--the last carried in a skin bag, out of

which each individual drank in his turn, simply holding up the bag and

pouring the wine by a small jet down his throat.

They were good-humoured fellows, and invited our travellers to taste

their wine; which invitation it would have been ill-mannered to refuse.

Ivan and Alexis emptied some out into their silver cups--which they

carried slung conveniently to their belts; but Pouchskin not having his

can so ready, essayed to drink the wine after the fashion of the

muleteers. But the goat-skin bag, clumsily manipulated in the hands of

the old guardsman, instead of sending the stream into his mouth, jetted

it all over his face and into his eyes, blinding and half-choking him!

As he stood in his stultified attitude, wine-skin in hand, the precious

fluid running down his nose, and dripping from the tips of his grand

mustachios, he presented a picture that caused the muleteers to laugh

till the tears ran down their cheeks; shouting out their _bravos_ and

other exclamations, as if they were applauding some exquisite piece of

performance in a theatre.

Pouchskin took it all in good part, and the muleteers pressed him to try

again; but, not caring to expose himself to a fresh burst of ridicule,

the old grenadier borrowed the cup of one of his young masters; and by

the help of this managed matters a little more to his mind. As the wine

tasted good to the old soldier's palate, and as the hospitable muleteers

invited him to drink as much as he pleased, it was not until the

goat-skin bag exhibited symptoms of collapse, that he returned it to its

owners.

Perhaps had Pouchskin not indulged so freely in the seducing Malaga

tipple, he might have avoided a very perilous adventure which befell him

almost on the instant, and which we shall now relate.

Our travellers, after exchanging some further civilities with the

muleteers, had once more mounted, and were about proceeding on their

way. Pouchskin, riding his great French jennet, had started in the

advance. Just in front of him, however, the pack mules were standing in

a cluster--not only blocking up the path, but barring the way on both

sides--so that to get beyond them it would be necessary to pass through

their midst. The animals all seemed tranquil enough--some picking at

the bushes that were within their reach, but most of them standing

perfectly still, occasionally shaking their long ears, or changing one

leg to throw the weight upon another. Pouchskin saw that it was

necessary to pass among them; and, probably, had he squeezed quietly

through, they might have remained still, and taken no notice of him.

But, elated with the wine he had drunk, the ex-grenadier, instead of

following this moderate course, drove his spurs into his great French

hybrid, and with a loud charging yell--such as might have issued from

the throat of a Cossack--he dashed right into the midst of the drove.

Whether it was because the animal he bestrode was French, or whether

something in Pouchskin's voice had sounded ill in their ears, it is not

possible to say, but all, at once the whole Spanish _mulada_ was

perceived to be in motion--each individual mule rushing towards

Pouchskin with pricked ears, open mouth, and tail elevated in the air!

It was too late for him to hear the cry of the izzard-hunter,

"_prenez-garde_!" or the synonym, "_guarda te_!" of the muleteers. He

may have heard both these cautionary exclamations, but they reached him

too late to be of any service to him: for before he could have counted

six, at least twice that number of mules had closed round him, and with

a simultaneous scream commenced snapping and biting at both him and his

French roadster with all the fury of famished wolves! In vain did the

stalwart jennet defend itself with its shod hoofs, in vain did its rider

lay round him with his whip: for not only did the Spanish mules assail

him with their teeth, but, turning tail as well, they sent their heels

whistling around his head, and now and then thumping against his legs,

until his leather boots and breeches cracked under their kicks!

Of course the muleteers, on perceiving Pouchskin's dilemma, had rushed

instantaneously to the rescue; and with loud cries and cracking of their

whips--as muleteers alone can crack them--were endeavouring to beat off

the assailants. But, with all their exertions, backed by their

authority over the animals, Pouchskin might have fared badly enough, had

not an opportunity offered for extricating himself. His animal, fleeing

from the persecution of its Spanish enemies, had rushed in among some

boulders of rock. Thither it was hotly pursued; and Pouchskin would

again have been overtaken, had he not made a very skilful and extensive

leap out of the saddle, and landed himself on a ledge of rock. From

this he was able to clamber still higher, until he had reached a point

that entirely cleared him of the danger.

The French jennet, however, had still to sustain the attack of the

infuriated mules; but, now that it was relieved from the encumbrance of

its heavy rider, it gained fresh confidence in its long legs; and making

a dash through the midst of the _mulada_, it struck off up the

mountain-path, and galloped clear out of sight. The mules, encumbered

with their packs, did not show any inclination to follow, and the drama

was thus brought to a termination.

The woe-begone look of the old guardsman, as he stood perched upon the

high pinnacle of rock, was again too much for the muleteers; and one and

all of them gave utterance to fresh peals of laughter. His young

masters were too much concerned about their faithful Pouchskin to give

way to mirth; but on ascertaining that he had only received a few

insignificant bruises,--thanks to the Spanish mules not being shod,--

they, too, were very much disposed to have a laugh at his expense.

Alexis was of opinion that their follower had made rather free with the

wine-skin; and therefore regarded the chastisement rather in the light

of a just retribution.

It cost the izzard-hunter a chase before Pouchskin's runaway could be

recovered; but the capture of the jennet was at length effected; and,

all things being set to-rights, a parting salute was once more exchanged

with the muleteers, and the travellers proceeded on their way.

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