CHAPTER I

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Transcriber’s Notes

Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations

in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and

punctuation remains unchanged.

Italics are represented thus _italic_ and bold thus =bold=.

The variables in the formulae concerning canals in Book III, Chapter

IV are italicised in the original. The coding has been omitted for the

sake of clarity.

Footnotes are located at the ends of chapters.

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The Survey of London

EARLY LONDON

AGENTS

AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY

64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK

AUSTRALASIA THE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS, MELBOURNE

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[Illustration: KING EDGAR ADORING THE SAVIOUR

Vespas. MS. A VIII.]

EARLY

LONDON

PREHISTORIC, ROMAN, SAXON

AND NORMAN

BY

SIR WALTER BESANT

[Publisher's Device]

LONDON

ADAM & CHARLES BLACK

1908

CONTENTS

BOOK I

PREHISTORIC LONDON

CHAP. PAGE

1. THE GEOLOGY 3

2. THE SITE 17

3. THE EARLIEST INHABITANTS 33

BOOK II

ROMAN LONDON

1. THE COMING OF THE ROMANS 53

2. THE ROMAN RULE 57

3. THE ASPECT OF THE CITY 79

4. REMAINS OF ROMAN LONDON 95

5. THE BUILDING OF THE WALL 112

6. LONDON BRIDGE 128

7. LONDON STONE 133

8. THE DESOLATION OF THE CITY 135

BOOK III

SAXON LONDON

1. THE COMING OF THE SAXONS 153

2. EARLY HISTORY 161

3. THE DANES IN LONDON 169

4. THE SECOND SAXON OCCUPATION 176

5. THE SECOND DANISH OCCUPATION 190

6. TOWN AND PEOPLE 196

7. THORNEY ISLAND 231

8. SAXON REMAINS 243

BOOK IV

NORMAN LONDON

1. WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR 249

2. DOMESDAY BOOK 262

3. WILLIAM RUFUS 272

4. HENRY I. 275

5. THE CHARTER OF HENRY I. 279

6. STEPHEN 289

7. FITZSTEPHEN THE CHRONICLER 301

8. THE STREETS AND THE PEOPLE 321

9. SOCIAL LIFE 337

10. A NORMAN FAMILY 345

APPENDICES

1. THE RIVER EMBANKMENT 351

2. THE RIVERSIDE DISCOVERIES 353

3. STRYPE ON ROMAN REMAINS 356

4. THE CLAPTON SARCOPHAGUS 361

5. 363

INDEX 365

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

King Edgar adoring the Saviour _Frontispiece_

Geological Map of the Site 7

Statues of King Lud and his two Sons, Androgeus and Theomantius 19

The Marshes of Early London 25

Side of Font, East Meon Church, Hampshire 36

Side of Font, East Meon Church, Hampshire 37

Offa being invested with Spurs 39

An Archer 42

Figures reconstructed from Ancient Clothes and Remains found

in a Bog 43

Figures in Wood at Wooburn in Buckinghamshire, supposed to

represent Itinerant Masons 45

Pavement before the Altar of the Prior’s Chapel at Ely 49

Statue of a Roman Warrior found in a Bastion of the London Wall 58

Roman Knife-handle—Figure of Charioteer, Bronze 60

Carausius 61

A Sea Fight 66

Tomb of Valerius Amandinus (A Roman General) 67

Coffin Lids found in London 71

Bronze Roman Lamp found in Cannon Street 75

Method of Swathing the Dead 77

Dow Gate 79

Tessellated Pavement 81

Roman Sandals taken from the Bed of the Thames 89

The Laconicum, or Sweating Bath 90

Tessellated Pavement 91

Roman Roads radiating from London 93

Roman Altar to Diana found in St. Martin’s-le-Grand 95

Roman Bath, Strand Lane 97

Roman Antiquities found in London, 1786 101

Roman London 102

Statuettes of Roman Deities 103

Roman Sepulchral Stone found at Ludgate by Sir Christopher Wren 107

Roman Statue discovered at Bevis Marks 108

Roman Antiquities found in London in 1786 109

Roman Remains found in a Bastion of London Wall 113

Roman Arch, London Wall 122

A Ship 126

An Anglo-Saxon Warrior _Facing_ 136

Ancient Copper Bowl found in Lothbury 138

The Ark 142

King and Courtiers 146

A Group of Anglo-Saxon Spearmen 154

Gregory the Great, St. Benedict, and St. Cuthbert 156

Lady in a Chariot 157

Family Life 159

Aelfwine 161

The Coronation of a King 162

Aldhelm presenting “De Virginitate” to Hildelida, Abbess of

Barking, and her Nuns _Facing_ 162

King Ethelbald 164

King in Bed 166

The Perils of the Deep 167

Slaves waiting on a Household 171

Guthlac carried away by Devils 172

Saxon Minstrels 174

Playing Draughts 175

The Alfred Jewel (Reverse) The Alfred Jewel (Obverse) 177

Page from Gospel Book given by Otho I. to Athelstan, Grandson

of Alfred the Great; on it the Anglo-Saxon Kings took the

Coronation Oath 178

From King Alfred’s “Orosius” 179

King Cnut and his Queen, Emma, presenting a Cross upon the

Altar of Newminster (Winchester) 181

The King receiving a Deputation 183

Anglo-Saxon Warriors approaching a Fort 185

A Fight 186

Diagram of Canal 188

King Edward the Confessor’s Palace at Borstal (Brill) 193

A Solar 196

Building a House 197

October. Hawking 198

A Banquet 199

Saxon Ladies 201

Saxon Horn 202

Merchantmen with Horses and Camels 203

A Banquet 205

Glastonbury Abbey 206

Anglo-Saxon Nuns 207

Conferring the Tonsure 208

A Burial 209

Saxon Church at Greenstead 211

St. Dunstan 213

The Last Day _Facing_ 214

Anglo-Saxon Modes of Punishment 216

The Flogging of a Slave 216

Three Men in Bed 218

Mother and Child 219

Drawing Water 220

St. Luke, from St. Chad’s Gospel Book, date about 700 A.D. 221

Anglo-Saxon Husbandman and his Wife 223

Feeding the Hungry 225

Going to the Chase 226

The Hawk Strikes 226

Feasting 227

Anglo-Saxon House 229

The Situation of Westminster 231

St. Dunstan at the Feet of Christ 233

Monks 235

The Famous “Book of Kells” MS. of the Gospels in Latin,

written in Ireland (A.D. 650-690) 237

Rood over the South Door of Stepney Church 239

Edward the Confessor’s Chapel 241

Ancient Enamelled Ouche in Gold discovered near Dowgate Hill;

probably Ninth Century 243

An Ancient Comb found in the Ruins of Ickleton Nunnery 244

Duke William comes to Pevensey 249

King Harold shown in a Mêlée of Fighting-Men 251

Charter of the City of London given by William the Conqueror 252

A Norman Knight 253

Norman Horsemen 255

Harold trying to pull the Arrow from his Eye 255

Norman Archers 255

William the Conqueror and his Knights (from the Bayeux Tapestry) 257

Bishops 258

The Seal of Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, Half-brother of William I. 259

Part of a Page of Domesday Book 263

William I. and II., Henry I. and Stephen _Facing_ 264

Norman Soldiers 267

Norman London 269

Norman Capitals from Westminster Hall 273

Seal of St. Anselm 275

Norman Arch, in the Cloisters, Westminster Abbey _Facing_ 276

Coronation of Henry I. 279

An Ancient Seal of Robert, Fifth Baron FitzWalter 281

The Temple Church 283

A Fight 291

Costume of English Kings of the Eleventh Century. Anglo-Norman

Ladies of High Degree _Facing_ 292

St. John’s Chapel, Tower of London, Norman Architecture 295

March. Field Work. September. Boar-Hunting 303

Matron and Maid 305

A Horseman 308

Tilting 313

Tilting in Boats 314

Dancing 315

The Chase 317

The White Tower 319

Representation of Orion 322

Craftsman at work on a House 323

London Wall 325

A Norman Hall 327

Three Bishops 329

Building a House _Facing_ 338

A Family Group 339

Lady saving a Stag from the Hunters 341

Saxon Doorway, Temple Church 343

BOOK I

PREHISTORIC LONDON

CHAPTER I

THE GEOLOGY

By Prof. T. G. BONNEY, F.R.S.

The buildings of a town often succeed in masking the minor physical

features of its site—irregularities are levelled, brooks are hidden

beneath arches and find ignominious ends in sewers; canals, quays,

and terrace walls may be wholly artificial. To realise completely the

original contours of the ground is often a laborious process, demanding

inductive reasoning on the evidence obtained in sinking wells, in

digging the foundations of the larger buildings, or in making cuttings

and tunnels. Still the broader and bolder features cannot be obscured,

however thick the encrusting layer of masonry may be. What, then,

are these in the case of Greater London? Its site is a broad valley,

along the bed of which a tidal river winds in serpentine curves as its

channel widens and deepens towards the sea. On either side of this

valley the ground slopes upwards, though for a while very gently,

towards a hilly district, which rises, sometimes rather steeply, to

a height of about 400 feet above sea-level. Towards the north this

district passes into an undulating plateau, the chalky uplands of

Hertfordshire; on the south it ends in a more sharply defined range,

which occasionally reaches an elevation of about 800 feet above the

sea—the North Downs. The upland declines a little, the valley broadens

towards the sea, as the river changes into an estuary. Between the one

and the other there is no very hard and fast division; the ground by

the side of each is low, but as a rule by the river it is just high

enough to be naturally fit for cultivation, while by the estuary it

is a marsh. But as the ground becomes more salubrious, the channel

becomes more shallow, and at one place, a short distance above the

confluence of a tributary stream from the north—the Lea—this change in

the character of the valley is a little more rapid than elsewhere.

These conditions seem to have determined the site of the city—the

original nucleus of the vast aggregate of houses which forms the London

of to-day. Air and water are among the prime requisites of life; no

important settlement is likely to be established where the one is

insalubrious, the other difficult to obtain. Thus men, in the days

before systems of drainage had been devised, would shun the marshes of

Essex and Kent, and, in choosing a less malarious site, would seek one

where they could get water fit to be drunk, either from brooks which

descended from the uplands, or from shallow wells. These conditions, as

we shall see, were fulfilled in the site of ancient London; these for

long years determined its limits and regulated its expansion.

Let us imagine London obliterated from the valley of the Thames; let us

picture that valley as it was more than two thousand years ago, when

the uplands north of the river were covered by a dense forest, and the

Andreds Wald (as it was afterwards named) extended from the Sussex

coast to the slopes of the Kentish Downs. We gaze, as we have said,

upon a broad valley, through which the tidal Thames takes its winding

course, receiving affluents from either side. These are sometimes mere

brooks, sometimes rivers up which the salt water at high tide makes its

way for short distances. The brooks generally rise among the marginal

hills; the rivers on the northern side start far back on the undulating

plateau; but on the southern the more important have cut their way

completely through the range of the North Downs and are fed by streams

which began their course in the valley of the Weald. Of the latter,

however, probably not one is directly connected with the earliest

history of London; of the former, only the Fleet, which, rising on the

southern scarp of Hampstead Heath, ultimately enters the Thames near

Blackfriars Bridge. But both the one and the other at later stages in

the development of London may require a passing word of notice.

What, then, do we see at this earliest phase in the history of the

future metropolis? At once we are impressed with the fact that the

Thames formerly must have flowed in a channel broader but straighter

than its present one; a channel which is now indicated by a tract of

alluvial land a few feet below the general level of the valley, and

but little above high-water mark. Traces of this may be seen here

and there between Chelsea and London Bridge, in the low ground about

Millbank and along the river-side at Westminster, and in that which

runs from Lambeth along the right bank of the Thames. But the most

marked indication of this alluvial plain begins about a mile below

London Bridge. Here the left bank of the river is formed, as it has

been from the bend at Hungerford Bridge, by a terrace ranging at first

from about 25 feet to 40 feet above mean tide level, a most important

physical feature, for it determined, as we shall see, the site of

London. But on the opposite shore, the strip of lower ground—often

about four or five hundred yards wide—on which river-side Southwark is

built, continues until, at Bermondsey, it widens rather suddenly to

about a mile and a half. So it goes on past the junction of the Lea,

now widening, now contracting slightly, as, for instance, opposite to

Purfleet and above Greenwich, but always a broad lowland through which

the present tidal river takes a wholly independent and sinuous course.

This plain is formed of silt which the Thames itself has deposited

over the debatable region where river and sea begin to meet. It is

but little above high-water mark; much of it less than a dozen feet

above ordnance datum. A similar low plain, about half a mile wide, may

be traced for a few miles up the valley of the Lea, and indications

of this may be found here and there by the side of the Thames above

Chelsea; but commonly they are wanting, and always are limited in

extent. In their absence, the river bank is higher, for it is formed

by the scarp of that terrace to which we have already referred. The

difference in elevation between these plains is not great, for the

second begins at about 20 to 25 feet above ordnance datum; but it

shelves from this gently upwards, forming the remainder of the more

obvious bed of the valley, till it reaches a height of about 100 feet.

At about this level, though it is impossible to be quite precise, the

steeper slopes, more especially on the northern side of the river,

and the hills, continue to rise till sometimes—as at Hampstead and at

Highgate—they reach an elevation of rather over 400 feet. We cannot,

however, do more than speak in general terms, for in a valley like that

of the Thames—mainly excavated in a soft and tenacious clay—a large

part of the rainfall runs off, forming numerous brooklets and small

streams, which carve out many minor undulations and shallow ramifying

valleys.

The lowest alluvial plain, in olden days, must have been a desolate

marshland, the haunt of wildfowl and the home of ague; so we pass

it by, to describe more particularly the ground which overlooks it.

The valley as a whole—in the neighbourhood of London—is carved out

of strata assigned by geologists to the earlier part of the Tertiary

era, the period called the Eocene. These rest upon a mass of chalk

some 650 feet thick beneath the junction of Tottenham Court Road with

Oxford Street—which rises to the surface towards the Kentish Downs

on the one side and in the Hertfordshire hills on the other. Near

London this rock is not exposed, but it begins to show itself near

Deptford and Charlton, and is yet more conspicuous about Dartford and

Purfleet, so that it evidently forms a true basin beneath London. Of

what lies beneath it we shall speak hereafter, for this is a matter of

more importance to the future history of London than at first might

be supposed. The Eocene strata take the same basin-like form as the

underlying chalk, so that while the lowest of them rises to the surface

north and south of London, it is rather more than 200 feet below

sea-level at Hungerford Bridge. This rock, called the Thanet Sand,

is a marine deposit; it is a very light grey or buff-coloured sand,

formed almost entirely of quartz grains, and it occupies a more limited

area than the overlying strata, its thickness beneath London commonly

varying from about 20 to 40 feet. The Thanet Sand seldom, if ever,

reaches the surface to the north or the south-west of London, but it

may be seen to the south-east, as about Woolwich and Croydon.

Over the Thanet Sand comes a rather variable group of clays and sands

called the Woolwich and Reading Beds. They extend over a larger area

and generally run a little thicker than it does, for beneath London

they are usually about 50 or 60 feet, and occasionally rather more.

The fossils are sometimes fresh-water forms, sometimes estuarine or

marine, so that the deposit probably marks the embouchure of one or

possibly two large rivers. Next comes that brownish clay which is so

constantly turned up in digging sewers or foundations, especially on

the lower slopes of the hills. Its name—the London Clay—is taken from

the metropolis; but it covers, or at any rate has covered, a much more

extensive area, for it can be traced at intervals (large masses having

been removed by denudation in some districts) as far as Marlborough

on the west, the Isle of Wight on the south, and Great Yarmouth on

the north. The same cause has reduced its thickness in parts of the

metropolitan districts. Beneath Trafalgar Square, for example, it is

142 feet, and in some wells even less, but the total thickness must

have been—indeed in some places it still is—rather more than 400 feet.

At the base a band of pebbles commonly occurs. This, under the central

part of London, is inconspicuous; but farther away, especially towards

the south and the east, it is often 20 to 30 feet thick, and sometimes

more. It consists of well-rounded flint pebbles, generally not so

big as a hen’s egg, mixed with quartz sand. This gravel lies at or

near the surface over a considerable area about Blackheath, Charlton,

and Chiselhurst, and is now generally distinguished from the London

Clay by a separate name—the Blackheath or the Oldhaven Beds. Both

this formation and the London Clay contain fossils, sometimes rather

abundantly, which indicate a marine origin, though the deposit cannot

have been formed at a long distance from land, for estuarine species

occur in it; while fossil fruits and pieces of wood are sometimes

common in the London Clay, the latter being often riddled by the

borings of teredines (a bivalve mollusc which still exists and makes

great havoc in timber). So that in all probability both the gravel and

the clay were connected with the rivers already mentioned.

Above the London Clay comes a group of sands, occasionally containing

intercalated beds of clay, which once must have had almost as wide

an extent as it, but in the London area it is reduced to isolated

fragments, capping the clay hills at Hampstead, Highgate, and Harrow.

Here the deposit is less than 100 feet in thickness, for so much has

been washed away, but it often reaches quite 300 feet on the dry

moorland about Chobham, Aldershot, and Weybridge.

[Illustration: GEOLOGICAL MAP OF THE SITE OF LONDON]

Then comes a great gap in the geological record. The beds just

mentioned belong to the Eocene, but after these nothing more is

found till we are very near the end, if not actually out of, the

Pliocene period. This long interval, in the district with which we are

concerned, was occupied by earth-movements, the result of which was

denudation rather than deposition. As we have already said, the chalk

and the overlying Eocene strata are bent into the form of an elongated

basin, which is related to the long dome-like elevation from which the

hills and valleys of the Weald have been sculptured. Basin and dome

alike are the results of wave-like movements which began to affect a

large portion of Europe soon after the latest Eocene deposits in the

London area were formed, movements of which the Alps and the Pyrenees

are more conspicuous monuments. But these folds first began at a still

earlier epoch—that which separates the newest part of the chalk from

the oldest beds of the Eocene. Even then the London basin and the

Wealden dome must have been outlined, though less boldly than now; for

beneath the City the Thanet Sand and the Woolwich and Reading Beds are

pierced in borings, and are together about 90 feet in thickness. But

high up on the North Downs the pebble bed at the bottom of the London

Clay may be seen resting on the chalk. So this district in early

Eocene times must have been higher than the former one by at least the

above-named amount; or, in other words, the basin of the Thames and the

dome of the Weald must have been already indicated.

The later earth-movements, however, were on a much grander scale.

Under London Bridge the base of the London Clay is about 90 feet below

the sea-level, while on the North Downs it is about 750 feet above

it, so the displacement since it was laid down has been at least 840

feet. The uplift in the central part of the Weald was doubtless much

greater, but as denudation must have begun as soon as ever dry land

appeared, we cannot say to what height the hills in this part may have

risen. Still, when we remember that the valleys of the Wey, the Mole,

and the Medway, which drain the northern half of the Weald, have cut

completely through the range of the North Downs on their course towards

the Thames, and are the makers of the valleys in which they flow, we

can understand the magnitude of the work of denudation. But that work

was far too complicated, the subject is far too difficult and full

of controversies, to be discussed in these pages; we must content

ourselves with mentioning a few facts which have more or less affected

the history of the metropolis.

As the rivers flowed, they transported and deposited the débris of the

land, and if ever a submergence occurred, the same work would be done

by tides and currents of the sea. The earliest deposits, obviously,

would be formed in places which are far above the present beds of the

streams. Most of these deposits would be washed away, their materials

would be sorted out and transferred to lower levels, as the valleys

were widened and deepened, and as the surface of the ground approached

more nearly to its present contours. Thus gravels, sands, and clays are

found at various levels down nearly to the present level of the Thames.

The oldest of them, deposited within a radius of about ten miles from

London Stone, lie rather more than 300 feet above the sea.[1] These

last are probably connected with similar sands and gravels which cover

considerable areas in the Eastern Counties, and may have been deposited

at an epoch when even the outline of the present valley system of the

Thames had not been delineated. Upon this question, however, it is

needless to enter. The next deposit, supposing these patches of sand

and gravel to be of one age—a very doubtful matter,—is the Boulder

Clay—a stiff, tenacious clay, often studded with pieces of chalk, from

minute grains to biggish lumps, which commonly are fairly well rounded,

together with flints, both rounded and angular, and fragments of other

rocks. These have been derived, generally speaking, from the north and

from various places, often at long distances, either on the eastern

side of England, or in Scotland, or occasionally even in Norway. The

clay also appears to have been formed from materials which came from

the same direction. But little of this Boulder Clay now remains in

the neighbourhood of London; the nearest patch is found on the higher

ground on either side of the 300 feet contour-line between Whetstone,

Finchley, and Muswell Hill—perhaps also at Hendon. To what extent the

valley system of the Thames was sculptured when the Boulder Clay was

formed; why the latter stops short on the northern slopes; under what

circumstances it was deposited—are all subjects of controversy which

it is impossible to discuss in these pages. Suffice it to say that the

clay indicates, to some extent at least, the action of ice; and that

as the patches of it and of the associated gravels occur at different

levels (a fact which is still more obvious in other districts) and

appear to exhibit a general correspondence in distribution with the

present contours of the ground, several valleys must have been by then

partially, if not completely, defined. In the main valley—as, for

example, near Erith—fine sandy clays or “brick earth” occur, which some

geologists consider to be at least as old as this clay. The climate,

when this “brick earth” was deposited, certainly must have been much

colder than it is at present, for remains of the musk-sheep have been

found in it, and at that time the valley of the Thames must have been

excavated nearly to its present depth. But on the slopes of this

valley, and of its tributaries, beds of gravel are found, containing

stones which must have been washed out of the Boulder Clay; and as

these gravels often extend to more than a hundred feet above the

present level of the river, the changes since they were deposited must

have been considerable. They contain the bones of extinct mammals, such

as the woolly rhinoceros and the mammoth, with others indicative of a

climate distinctly colder than at present. But as these also have been

found almost at the present level of the river, the animals must have

remained in this country till it had assumed very nearly its present

outlines. For instance, the tooth of a mammoth was discovered in 1731,

28 feet below the surface, when a sewer was dug in Pall Mall. Many

bones of this and other animals have been found in the “brick earth”

of Ilford; and a splendid pair of tusks, obtained in 1864, is now

preserved in the British Museum, South Kensington. Here “the ground

forms a low terrace, bordering the small river Roding on the one side,

and on the other it slopes gradually down to the Thames. The height

of the surface at the pits is about 28 feet above the Thames.”[2] It

is therefore certain that the river valley was cut down nearly to its

present level while the climate was still much colder than it is at

present, and very probable that its depth was much increased after the

chalky Boulder Clay had been deposited; for these gravels, as has been

said, are strewn over the lower slopes up to about a hundred feet above

the present river. At Highbury Terrace they even reach 154 feet, and at

Wimbledon 190 feet.

These gravels have yielded the remains, not only of the mammoth, but

also of man. His bones indeed have hardly ever been discovered, but

stones chipped into shape by his hands are far from rare. They are

almost always made of flint, a material which was abundant, could be

readily trimmed, and afforded a good and durable cutting edge. These

implements are never smoothed or polished, and exhibit many varieties

of form. They range from mere flakes, the artificial origin of which

cannot always be proved, but which in all probability were used as

knives and scrapers, to instruments which could only have been made

at the cost of considerable time and some skill. Similar remains have

been found elsewhere in the more eastern and southern counties of

England and on the Continent. The people, however, who fashioned such

implements hardly can have been so far advanced in civilisation as the

wandering tribes of Esquimaux in Northern Greenland.

These worked flints are very rarely found either below 20 or above

100 feet from the sea-level, but between these heights they are not

uncommon. About two centuries ago a well-worked flint, something like

a spear-head in shape, was found with an elephant’s (mammoth’s) tusk

“opposite black Mary’s, near Grayes Inn Lane.”[3] Implements of various

shapes have been obtained from the gravel near Acton, Ealing, Hackney,

Highbury, and Erith, as well as at Tottenham Cross, Lower Edmonton,

and other places in the valley of the Lea. But the most interesting

localities hitherto investigated are in the neighbourhood of Stoke

Newington and of Crayford. The worked flints at the former place are

found at more than one level, and indicate a progress in manual skill

sufficient to lead observers to the conclusion that they belong to

more than one epoch. The newest of these implements, flint flakes with

occasional more elaborate specimens, were so abundant and have occurred

in such a manner as to suggest to their discoverer (Mr. Worthington

Smith) that they lay on the actual surface where they were fashioned

by the workers of olden time. “The floor upon which this colony of men

lived and made their implements has remained undisturbed till modern

times, and the tools, together with thousands of flakes, all as sharp

as knives, still rest on the old bank of the brook just as they were

left in Palæolithic times. In some places the tools are covered with

sand, but usually with four or five feet of brick earth.... That (the

floor) was really a working place where tools were made in Palæolithic

times is proved by the fact of my replacing flakes on to the blocks

from which they were originally struck.”[4] At Crayford also, a layer

of flint chips was found by Mr. F. C. J. Spurrell in “brick earth” at

the foot of a buried cliff of chalk. The circumstances under which

these flakes occurred led him to the conclusion that this also was the

site of an old “workshop” of flint implements.[5]

These gravels may be assigned to a time—probably towards the conclusion

of the Glacial epoch—when the climate of Britain was still cold, when

the higher hills were permanently capped by snow, and when glaciers

may have lingered in the more mountainous regions. All through the

spring and early summer the rivers would be swollen with melting snow,

the torrents from the highland districts would be full and strong, and

thus denudation would be comparatively rapid—the more rapid because the

latest deposits, the Boulder Clay with its associated gravelly sands,

would be incoherent and in many places still unprotected by vegetation.

Very different would be the brooks and the rivers which then traversed

the valley of the Thames from those which now creep through lush

water-meadows or glide “by thorpe and town.” The final sculpturing of

the valleys—all that has been effected since the date of the Chalky

Boulder Clay—may have been accomplished with comparative quickness.

Still, since the time when the oldest of these flint implements were

lost by their owners, the beds of the valleys have been lowered, in

some places by not less than a hundred feet. The district also, until

the greater part of this final sculpturing was accomplished, was

inhabited by men whose habits of life were throughout substantially the

same.

The alluvial deposits, as already stated, rise but little above the

surface of the river at high tide. Their thickness varies, but commonly

it is from about 12 to 20 feet. The lowest part is generally gravel

and sand—materials indicating that the conditions which produced the

older deposits of a like nature passed away gradually. This is followed

by river silt, with occasional thin beds of peat or with indications

of old land surfaces on which flourished woods of oak or even of yew.

Below the Port of London, marine shells are rather abundant in the

lower part of the silt; these indicate that the general level of the

land was a little lower than it had been during the preceding age,

perhaps even than it is at present. These alluvial deposits have

yielded implements of smoothed or polished stone, of bronze and of

iron; also canoes, and even relics of the Roman occupation of Britain.

In other words, they have yielded antiquities belonging mainly to

prehistoric times, though the record is continued up to a comparatively

recent date. Marshy or peaty ground occurs even within the limits of

the city,[6] as at one corner of St. Paul’s Cathedral, in Finsbury

Crescent, and near London Wall, as well as at Westminster. Thorney—the

“Isle of Thorns”—the site of the Abbey, was formerly a low insular

bank of gravel among marshes. The lake in St. James’s Park indicates

the track of the Tyburn, which traversed one of these swamps. It was

a brook of some size, and traces of it may be found in the names

Marylebone (le-bourne[7]), and Brook Street. One branch of it passed

“through Dean Street and College Street till it fell into the Thames by

Millbank Street.”[8] The water from the slopes north of Hyde Park made

another stream called the Westbourne; this, after following a path

still suggested by the Serpentine, found its way to the Thames through

a fenny district which is now Belgravia (see also p. 26).

Such, then, is the structure of the valley of the Thames; such are

the deposits which form its surface on either side, and on which the

metropolis has been built. But we must now look a little more closely

at their distribution, for by this the growth of London in ancient

times was largely determined. The broad terrace already mentioned on

the left bank of the Thames, the site of mediæval London, consists,

for a couple of miles or so inland, mainly of a flint gravel more or

less sandy, seldom exceeding 20 feet in thickness, and commonly rather

less, which rests upon the tenacious London Clay. Here and there this

gravel may be traversed by a small stream, but the most marked break

in its level is formed by a brook which, flowing from the slopes of

Hampstead and Highgate, at last has cut its bed down to the clay and

has broadened out into a creek as it joins the Thames. It was known in

its lower reaches as the Fleet (see p. 27). This gravel terrace made

London possible; this stream formed its first boundary on the west.

The rain-water is readily absorbed by the gravel, but is arrested by

the underlying clay. It can escape in springs wherever a valley has

been cut down to the level of saturation, but if it is not tapped in

this way the gravel will be full of water to within a few feet of the

surface, so that a shallow well will yield a good supply. The first

settlement was placed upon this gravel, by the river-side, where the

channel is still deep at high tide; it was limited on the west by the

slopes descending to the Fleet, on the east by the lower ground which

shelves downwards towards the mouth of the Lea. From this nucleus,

enclosed within the Roman fortification, the town expanded, as times

became more peaceful, along the lines of the great roads; and at an

early date a _tête-du-pont_ would undoubtedly be formed at Southwark.

But without entering into the details of this development, let us pass

over some centuries and see how the growth of London was for a long

time conditioned and limited by this gravel. The metropolis spread

“eastward towards Whitechapel, Bow, and Stepney; north-eastward towards

Hackney, Clapton, and Newington; and westward towards Kensington and

Chelsea; while northward it came for many years to a sudden termination

at Clerkenwell, Bloomsbury, Marylebone, Paddington, and Bayswater: for

north of a line drawn from Bayswater, by the Great Western Station,

Clarence Gate, Park Square, and along the side of the New Road to

Euston Square, Burton Crescent, and Mecklenburg Square, this bed of

gravel terminates abruptly, and the London Clay comes to the surface

and occupies all the ground to the north. A map of London, as recent

as 1817, shows how well defined was the extension of houses arising

from this cause. Here and there only beyond the main body of the gravel

there were a few outliers, such as those at Islington and Highbury,

and there habitations followed. In the same way, south of the Thames,

villages and buildings were gradually extended over the valley-gravels

to Peckham, Camberwell, Brixton, and Clapham; while, beyond, houses

and villages rose on the gravel-capped hills of Streatham, Denmark

Hill, and Norwood. It was not until facilities were afforded for an

independent water-supply by the rapid extension of the works of the

great Water Companies that it became practicable to establish a town

population in the clay districts of Holloway, Camden Town, Regent’s

Park, St. John’s Wood, Westbourne, and Notting Hill.”[9]

It is possible that the position of the older parks—St. James’s, the

Green Park—and Hyde Park may have been indirectly determined by the

fact that over much of them the gravel is thin or the clay actually

rises to the surface.

Every old settlement outside the earlier limits of the metropolis marks

the presence of sand or gravel. Hampstead and Highgate, which early in

the nineteenth century were severed from London by nearly a couple of

miles of open fields, stand upon large patches of Bagshot Sand, which

caps the London Clay and is sometimes as much as 80 feet thick. This

yellowish or fawn-coloured sand may be seen almost anywhere in the

old excavations at the top of Hampstead Heath, and the difference of

the vegetation on this material and on the clay of the lower slopes

cannot fail to be noticed. On the latter, grass abounds; on the former,

fern, furze, and even heather. The junction of the sand and the clay

is indicated by springs which supply the various ponds. These are

occasionally chalybeate, like the once-noted spring which may still be

seen in Well Walk, Hampstead. Harrow stands on another outlying patch

of Bagshot Sand. Enfield, Edmonton, Barnet, Totteridge, Finchley,

Hendon, and other old villages are built upon the high-level gravels

which have been already mentioned.

The shallow wells are no longer used in London itself. Infiltration of

sewage, in some cases of the drainage from churchyards, had rendered

many of them actually poisonous; clear, sparkling, even palatable,

though the water might be, there was often “death in the cup.” There

was a terrible illustration of this fact during the visitation of the

cholera in 1854. A pump, the water of which was much esteemed, stood by

the wall of the churchyard in Broad Street (south of Oxford Street).

The water became infected, and the cholera ravaged the immediate

neighbourhood. But though most of these pumps were closed barely sixty

years ago, some, like that in Great Dean’s Yard, Westminster, were in

use for quite another quarter of a century. It has now disappeared, but

that within the precincts of the Charterhouse is still standing. Thus

London was limited to the gravel till it was able to obtain water from

other sources.[10]

The first step in this direction was early in the seventeenth century,

when the New River Company had its origin, and for many years this

was the only Company by which water was supplied to London; but seven

others were subsequently founded.[11]

The New River Company obtains its water from the Lea, the original

source being nearly forty miles from London, but the supply has been

since increased by sinking wells. The East London draws upon the same

river. Five of the other Companies get their water from the Thames,

some miles above London, augmenting their supply by means of wells,

and the Kent Company draws exclusively from deep wells in the chalk.

As these Companies were founded the metropolis began to spread rapidly

over the areas which they supplied, but it did so in a regular and

systematic fashion. Houses fed by the mains of a Water Company must

keep, as it were, in touch with their base of supply, because of the

cost of laying a long line of pipes to supply a solitary house. Thus a

town which draws its water from mains advances block by block into the

surrounding country, and is not encircled by a wide fringe of scattered

dwellings.

In the London area, however, there is a way in which the occupant of an

isolated house can obtain a supply of water, though it is not a cheap

one. He may bore through the London Clay into the underlying sands and

gravels. When a porous stratum rests on one that is impervious, the

former becomes saturated with water up to a certain level, dependent

on local circumstances, and in this case a well sunk sufficiently deep

into it will be filled. But if the porous stratum be also covered by

one which is impervious; if all three be bent into a basin-like form;

and if the porous one crop out at a considerably higher level than the

place where a well is needed, then it may be water-logged to a height

sufficient to force the water up the bore-hole, perhaps even to send

up a jet like a fountain. Wells of this kind are termed Artesian, from

Artois in France, where they have been in use for several centuries,

and they began to be sunk in England about a century ago. The London

Clay was pierced, and the water-logged sands and gravels belonging to

the lowest part of the Tertiary series were tapped. These basin-formed

beds crop out at an elevation generally of about one hundred feet above

the Thames; thus they were charged with water to a considerable height

above the level of the river, and it very commonly at first spouted up

above the surface of the ground; but as the wells increased in number,

its level was gradually lowered, for the area over which these beds

are exposed is not very extensive, and a stratum cannot supply more

water than it receives by percolation from the rainfall. At first

everything went well; consumers were like heirs who had succeeded to

the savings of a long minority, for water had been accumulating in this

subterranean basin-like reservoir during myriads of years; but after

a time the expenditure began to exceed the income, and the water-level

sank slowly, till now it is many yards below the surface of the ground.

But when this source of supply evidently was becoming overtaxed,

another was found in the underlying chalk. This rock absorbs water

rapidly, but parts with it very slowly. Professor Prestwich found by

experiment that a slab of chalk measuring 63 cubic inches drank up 26

cubic inches of water (all it could hold) in a quarter of an hour; yet

when left to drain for twelve hours it parted with only one-tenth of a

cubic inch.[12] So that an ordinary well is useless. But the upper part

of the chalk, generally to a depth of rather more than 300 feet, is

traversed by fissures, and these are full of water. So a bore-hole is

carried down till one of them is struck, and they are so abundant that

failures are rare. In this way the water-supply of London is materially

augmented.

This source also—at any rate in the immediate neighbourhood of

London—is becoming overtaxed, so an effort has been made to obtain

water from yet greater depths. Below the chalk is an impervious clay

(Gault), and beneath this comes a brownish sand, followed by some

other beds not quite so porous (called the Lower Greensand), which are

succeeded by thick clays. These sandy rocks crop out at the surface

to the north of London in Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire, and to

the south in Surrey and Kent. So they reasonably might be expected to

pass beneath the metropolis, to be saturated with water, and to yield

a large supply as they do at Paris, the geological position of which

bears a considerable resemblance to that of London. Bore-holes have

been put down in search of these sands at Kentish Town, Meux’s Brewery

(Tottenham Court Road), Richmond, Streatham, and Crossness. They

have also been sunk beyond the metropolitan area at Ware, Cheshunt,

Harwich, and Chatham. At the last place the Lower Greensand is only

about 40 feet thick, instead of 400 feet as it is south of the North

Downs.[13] It was expected to occur under London at a depth of about

1000 feet in round numbers, but in every case it was found to be either

wholly absent or so thin as to be worthless. This is true even so far

away as Ware and Harwich on the northern side, and perhaps as Croydon

on the southern. In the days when this Lower Greensand, and even a

considerable thickness of strata which elsewhere comes beneath it, were

deposited, a large island or peninsula composed of much older rocks

must have risen above the sea in the region over which London and all

its environs now stand. So there is no hope of increasing the supply of

water from any beds older than the upper part of the chalk. But a good

deal more may be obtained from this rock, if it be tapped at longer

distances from the metropolis. To this process, however, there are

two objections: one, that the number of wells and of conduits which

will be required in order to collect the water will probably make it

a rather costly source of supply; the other, that if large demands be

made on the water stored up beneath the chalk hills, the level of the

surface of saturation in this rock will be appreciably lowered, many

springs will be dried up, and the streams will be seriously diminished,

which will greatly injure thousands of acres of water-meadows and many

important industries. Large sums would have to be paid as compensation,

and this would add greatly to the cost of any scheme. It is doubtful

whether more water ought to be withdrawn from the Thames and its

tributaries; and rivers which flow through a thickly populated country

can hardly be regarded as safe from sewage contamination. It is

therefore not improbable that, within a few years, the metropolis will

have to follow the example of Liverpool and of Manchester, and seek

another source of water-supply at a yet greater distance than has been

done by those cities.

T. G. BONNEY.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] There is, indeed, a small patch of gravel near “The Spaniards” at

Hampstead which is rather more than 400 feet above the sea, but this

may not be connected with the sculpture of the Thames valley.

[2] Prof. J. Prestwich, _Geol. Mag._ 1864, p. 245.

[3] Sir J. Evans, _Ancient Stone Implements_, ch. xxiii.

[4] Worthington Smith, quoted by W. Whitaker, _Geology of London_, i.

p. 345.

[5] _Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._ xxxvi. p. 544.

[6] Whitaker, _Geology of London_, vol. i. p. 471.

[7] Also derived, according to some authorities, from “bourne,” a

boundary.—ED.

[8] Stanley, _Memorials of Westminster Abbey_, ch. i.

[9] Prof. Prestwich, _Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._ xxviii. (1872), _Proc._

liii.

[10] For the history of the water-supply of London, the requirements of

the metropolis, and the future prospects, see the Report of the Royal

Commission of Inquiry presented in 1873.

[11] In June 1904 the undertakings of these seven Companies passed to

the Metropolitan Water Board (constituted 1902), which took over their

debts, liabilities, etc., and a month later the business of the New

River Company passed to the same authority, which now controls the

total water-supply of London.—ED.

[12] _The Water-bearing Strata of London_, p. 60.

[13] See, for particulars, W. Whitaker, _Geology of London_, vol.

ii. Appendix i.; or H. B. Woodward, _Geology of England and Wales_,

Appendix i.

CHAPTER II

THE SITE

It is due to the respect with which all writers upon London must regard

the first surveyor and the collector of its traditions and histories

that we should quote his words as to the origin and foundation of the

City. He says (Strype’s _Stow_, vol. i. book i.):—

“As the Roman Writers, to glorify the City of Rome, drew the Original

thereof from Gods, and Demi-gods, so Geoffrey of Monmouth, the Welsh

historian, deduceth the Foundation of this famous City of London, for

the greater Glory thereof, and Emulation of Rome, from the very same

original. For he reporteth, that Brute, lineally descended from the

Demi-god Eneas, the son of Venus, Daughter of Jupiter, about the Year

of the World 2855, and 1108 before the Nativity of Christ, builded the

City near unto the River now called Thames, and named it Troynovant,

or Trenovant. But herein, as Livy, the most famous Historiographer of

the Romans, writeth, ‘Antiquity is pardonable, and hath an especial

Privilege, by interlacing Divine Matters with Human, to make the first

Foundations of Cities more honourable, more Sacred, and as it were of

greater Majesty.’

This Tradition concerning the ancient Foundation of the City by Brute,

was of such Credit, that it is asserted in an ancient Tract, preserved

in the Archives of the Chamber of London; which is transcribed into the

Liber Albus, and long before that by Horn, in his old Book of Laws and

Customs, called Liber Horn. And a copy of this Tract was drawn out of

the City Books by the Mayor and Aldermen’s special Order, and sent to

King Henry the VI., in the Seventh year of his reign; which Copy yet

remains among the Records of the Tower. The Tract is as followeth:—

‘_Inter Nobiles Urbes Orbis, etc._ 1. Among the noble Cities of the

World which Fame cries up, the City of London, the only Seat of the

Realm of England, is the principal, which widely spreads abroad the

Rumour of its Name. It is happy for the Wholesomeness of the Air,

for the Christian religion, for its most worthy Liberty, and most

ancient Foundation. For according to the Credit of Chronicles, it is

considerably older than Rome: and it is stated by the same Trojan

Author that it was built by Brute, after the Likeness of Great Troy,

before that built by Romulus and Remus. Whence to this Day it useth

and enjoyeth the ancient City Troy’s Liberties, Rights, and Customs.

For it hath a Senatorial Dignity and Lesser Magistrates. And it hath

Annual Sheriffs instead of Consuls. For whosoever repair thither, of

whatsoever condition they be, whether Free or Servants, they obtain

there the refuge of Defence and Freedom. Almost all the Bishops,

Abbots, and Nobles of England are as it were Citizens and Freemen of

this City, having their noble Inns here.’

These and many more matters of remark, worthy to be remembered,

concerning this most noble City, remain in a very old Book, called

_Recordatorium Civitatis_; and in the Book called _Speculum_.

King Lud (as the same Geoffrey of Monmouth noteth) afterward (about

1060 Years after) not only repaired this City, but also increased the

same with fair Buildings, Towers, and Walls; which after his own Name

called it Caire-Lud, or Luds-Town. And the strong Gate which he builded

in the west Part of the City, he likewise, for his own honour, named

Ludgate.

And in Process of Time, by mollifying the Word, it took the Name of

London, but some others will have it called Llongdin; a British word

answering to the Saxon word Shipton, that is, a Town of Ships. And

indeed none hath more Right to take unto itself that Name of Shipton,

or Road of Ships, than this City, in regard of its commodious situation

for shipping on so curious a navigable River as the Thames, which

swelling at certain Hours with the Ocean Tides, by a deep and safe

Channel, is sufficient to bring up ships of the greatest Burthen to her

Sides, and thereby furnisheth her inhabitants with the Riches of the

known World; so that as her just Right she claimeth Pre-eminency of all

other Cities. And the shipping lying at Anchor by her Walls resembleth

a Wood of Trees, disbranched of their Boughs.

This City was in no small Repute, being built by the first Founder of

the British Empire, and honoured with the Sepulchre of divers of their

Kings, as Brute, Locrine, Cunodagius, and Gurbodus, Father of Ferrex

and Porrex, being the last of the Line of Brute.

Mulmutius Dunwallo, son of Cloton, Duke of Cornwall, having vanquished

his Competitors, and settled the Land, caused to be erected on, or near

the Place, where now Blackwell-Hall standeth (a Place made use of by

the Clothiers for the sale of their Cloth every Thursday), a Temple

called the Temple of Peace; and after his Death was there interred. And

probably it was so ordered to gratify the Citizens, who favoured his

Cause.

Belinus (by which Name Dunwallo’s Son was called) built an Haven in

this Troynovant, with a Gate over it, which still bears the Name of

_Belingsgate_ [now Billingsgate]. And on the Pinnacle was a brazen

Vessel erected, in which was put the ashes of his Body burnt after his

Death.

The said Belinus is supposed to have built the Tower of London, and

to have appointed three Chief Pontiffs to superintend all Religious

Affairs throughout Britain; whereof one had his See in London, and

the other Sees were York and Carleon. But finding little on Record

concerning the actions of those Princes, until we come to the reign

of King Lud, it is thought unnecessary to take any further Notice of

them. He was eldest son of Hely, who began his Reign about 69 years

before the Birth of Jesus Christ. A Prince much praised by Historians

for his great Valour, noble Deeds, and Liberality (for amending the

Laws of the Country, and forming the State of his Common-weal). And in

particular, for repairing this City, and erecting many fair Buildings,

and encompassing it about with a strong stone Wall. In the west Part

whereof he built a strong Gate, called Ludgate, as was shewed before,

where are now standing in Niches, over the said Gate, the Statues of

this good King, and his two Sons on each side of him, as a lasting

Monument of his Memory, being, after an honourable Reign, near

thereunto Buried, in a Temple of his own Building.

[Illustration: STATUES OF KING LUD AND HIS TWO SONS, ANDROGEUS AND

THEOMANTIUS

Taken from the old Lud Gate.]

This Lud had two Sons, Androgeus and Theomantius [or Temanticus], who

being not of age to govern at the death of their father, their Uncle

Cassivelaune took upon him the Crown; about the eighth Year of whose

reign, Julius Cæsar arrived in this Land, with a great power of Romans

to conquer it. The Antiquity of which conquest, I will summarily set

down out of his own Commentaries, which are of far better credit than

the Relations of Geoffrey of Monmouth.

The chief Government of the Britons, and Administration of War, was

then by common advice committed to Cassivelaune, whose borders were

divided from the Cities on the sea coast by a river called Thames,

about fourscore miles from the sea. This Cassivelaune before had made

continual Wars with the other Cities; but the Britons, moved with the

coming of the Romans, had made him their Sovereign and General of

their Wars (which continued hot between the Romans and them). [Cæsar

having knowledge of their intent, marched with his army to the Thames

into Cassivelaune’s Borders. This River can be passed but only in

one place on Foot, and that with much difficulty. When he was come

hither, he observed a great power of his enemies in Battle Array on

the other side of the River. The Bank was fortified with sharp stakes

fixed before them; and such kind of Stakes were also driven down under

water, and covered with the river. Cæsar having understanding thereof

by the Prisoners and Deserters, sent his Horse before, and commanded

his Foot to follow immediately after. But the Roman Soldiers went on

with such speed and force, their Heads only being above water, that the

Enemy not being able to withstand the Legions, and the Horse, forsook

the Bank and betook themselves to Flight. Cassivelaune despairing of

Success by fighting in plain battle, sent away his greater forces, and

keeping with him about Four Thousand Charioteers, watched which way

the Romans went, and went a little out of the way, concealing himself

in cumbersome and woody Places. And in those Parts where he knew the

Romans would pass, he drove both Cattle and People out of the open

Fields into the Woods. And when the Roman Horse ranged too freely

abroad in the Fields for Forage and Spoil, he sent out his Charioteers

out of the Woods by all the Ways and Passages well known to them,

and encountered with the Horse to their great Prejudice. By the fear

whereof he kept them from ranging too far; so that it came to this

pass, that Cæsar would not suffer his Horse to stray any Distance from

his main Battle of Foot, and no further to annoy the enemy, in wasting

their Fields, and burning their Houses and Goods, than their Foot could

effect by their Labour or March.]

But in the meanwhile, the Trinobants, in effect the strongest City

of those Countries, and one of which Mandubrace, a young Gentleman,

that had stuck to Cæsar’s Party, was come to him, being then in the

Main Land [viz. Gaul], and thereby escaped Death, which he should

have suffered at Cassivelaune’s Hands (as his Father Imanuence who

reigned in that city had done). The Trinobants, I say, sent their

Ambassadors, promising to yield themselves unto him, and to do what

he should command them, instantly desiring him to protect Mandubrace

from the furious tyranny of Cassivelaune, and to send some into the

City, with authority to take the Government thereof. Cæsar accepted the

offer and appointed them to give him forty Hostages, and to find him

Grain for his Army, and so sent he Mandubrace to them. They speedily

did according to the command, sent the number of Hostages, and the

Bread-Corn.

When others saw that Cæsar had not only defended the Trinobants against

Cassivelaune, but had also saved them harmless from the Pillage of

his own Soldiers, the Cenimagues, the Segontiacs, the Ancalites, the

Bibrokes, and the Cassians, by their Ambassies, yield themselves to

Cæsar. By these he came to know that Cassivelaune’s Town was not far

from that Place, fortified with Woods and marshy Grounds; into the

which a considerable number of Men and Cattle were gotten together. For

the Britains call that a Town, saith Cæsar, when they have fortified

cumbersome Woods, with a Ditch and a Rampire; and thither they are wont

to resort, to abide the Invasion of their Enemies. Thither marched

Cæsar with his Legions. He finds the Place notably fortified both by

Nature and human Pains; nevertheless he strives to assault it on two

sides. The Enemies, after a little stay, being not able longer to bear

the Onset of the Roman Soldiers, rushed out at another Part, and left

the Town unto him. Here was a great number of Cattle found, and many of

the Britains were taken in the Chace, and many slain.

While these Things were doing in these Quarters, Cassivelaune sent

Messengers to that Part of Kent, which, as we showed before, lyeth

upon the Sea, over which Countries Four Kings, Cingetorix, Caruil,

Taximagul, and Segorax, reigned, whom he commanded to raise all their

Forces, and suddenly to set upon and assault their Enemies in their

Naval Trenches. To which, when they were come, the Romans sallied out

upon them, slew a great many of them, and took Cingetorix, an eminent

Leader among them, Prisoner, and made a safe Retreat. Cassivelaune,

hearing of this Battle, and having sustained so many Losses, and found

his Territories wasted, and especially being disturbed at the Revolt

of the Cities, sent Ambassadors along with Comius of Arras, to treat

with Cæsar concerning his Submission. Which Cæsar, when he was resolved

to Winter in the Continent, because of the sudden insurrection of the

Gauls, and that not much of the Summer remained, and that it might

easily be spent, accepted, and commands him Hostages, and appoints what

Tribute Britain should yearly pay to the People of Rome, giving strait

Charge to Cassivelaune, that he should do no Injury to Manubrace, nor

the Trinobants. And so receiving the Hostages, withdrew his Army to the

Sea again.

Thus far out of Cæsar’s Commentaries concerning this History, which

happened in the year before Christ’s Nativity LIV. In all which

Process, there is for this Purpose to be noted, that Cæsar nameth the

City of the Trinobantes; which hath a Resemblance with Troynova or

Trenovant; having no greater Difference in the Orthography than the

changing of [b] into [v]. And yet maketh an Error, which I will not

argue. Only this I will note, that divers learned Men do not think

Civitas Trinobantum to be well and truly translated The City of the

Trinobantes: but that it should rather be The State, Communalty, or

Seignory of the Trinobants. For that Cæsar, in his Commentaries, useth

the Word Civitas only for a People living under one and the self-same

Prince and Law. But certain it is, that the Cities of the Britains were

in those Days neither artificially builded with Houses, nor strongly

walled with Stone, but were only thick and cumbersome Woods, plashed

within and trenched about. And the like in effect do other the Roman

and Greek authors directly affirm; as Strabo, Pomponius Mela, and Dion,

a Senator at Rome (Writers that flourished in the several Reigns of

the Roman Emperors, Tiberius, Claudius, Domitian, and Severus): to

wit, that before the Arrival of the Romans, the Britains had no Towns,

but called that a Town which had a thick entangled Wood, defended,

as I said, with a Ditch and Bank; the like whereof the Irishmen, our

next Neighbours, do at this day call Fastness. But after that these

hither Parts of Britain were reduced into the Form of a Province by the

Romans, who sowed the Seeds of Civility over all Europe, this our City,

whatsoever it was before, began to be renowned, and of Fame.

For Tacitus, who first of all Authors nameth it Londinium, saith,

that (in the 62nd year after Christ) it was, albeit, no Colony of the

Romans; yet most famous for the great Multitude of Merchants, Provision

and Intercourse. At which time, in that notable Revolt of the Britains

from Nero, in which seventy thousand Romans and their Confederates were

slain, this City, with Verulam, near St. Albans, and Maldon, then all

famous, were ransacked and spoiled.

For Suetonius Paulinus, then Lieutenant for the Romans in this Isle,

abandoned it, as not then fortified, and left it to the Spoil.

Shortly after, Julius Agricola, the Roman Lieutenant in the Time of

Domitian, was the first that by exhorting the Britains publickly,

and helping them privately, won them to build Houses for themselves,

Temples for the Gods, and Courts for Justice, to bring up the

Noblemen’s Children in good Letters and Humanity, and to apparel

themselves Roman-like. Whereas before (for the most part) they went

naked, painting their Bodies, etc., as all the Roman Writers have

observed.

True it is, I confess, that afterward, many Cities and Towns in

Britain, under the Government of the Romans, were walled with Stone

and baked Bricks or Tiles; as Richborough, or Rickborough-Ryptacester

in the Isle of Thanet, till the Channel altered his Course, besides

Sandwich in Kent, Verulamium besides St. Albans in Hertfordshire,

Cilcester in Hampshire, Wroxcester in Shropshire, Kencester in

Herefordshire, three Miles from Hereford Town; Ribchester, seven

Miles above Preston, on the Water of Rible; Aldeburg, a Mile from

Boroughbridge, on Watheling-Street, on Ure River, and others. And no

doubt but this our City of London was also walled with Stone in the

Time of the Roman Government here; but yet very latewardly; for it

seemeth not to have been walled in the Year of our Lord 296. Because

in that Year, when Alectus the Tyrant was slain in the Field, the

Franks easily entered London, and had sacked the same, had not God of

his great Favour at that very Instant brought along the River of Thames

certain Bands of Roman Soldiers, who slew those Franks in every Street

of the City.”

We need not pursue Stow in the legendary history which follows. Let

us next turn to the evidence of ancient writers. Cæsar sailed for his

first invasion of Britain on the 26th of August B.C. 55. He

took with him two legions, the 7th and the 10th. He had previously

caused a part of the coast to be surveyed, and had inquired of the

merchants and traders concerning the natives of the island. He landed,

fought one or two battles with the Britons, and after a stay of three

weeks he retired.

The year after he returned with a larger army—an army of five legions

and 2000 cavalry. On this occasion he remained four months. We need

not here inquire into his line of march, which cannot be laid down

with exactness. After his withdrawal certain British Princes, when

civil wars drove them out, sought protection of Augustus. Strabo says

that the island paid moderate duties; that the people imported ivory

necklaces and bracelets, amber, and glass; that they exported corn,

cattle, gold and silver, iron, skins, slaves, and hunting-dogs. He also

says that there were four places of transit from the coast of Gaul to

that of Britain, viz. the mouths of the Rhine, the Seine, the Loire,

and the Garonne.

The point that concerns us is that there was before the arrival of the

Romans already a considerable trade with the island.

Nearly a hundred years later—A.D. 43—the third Roman invasion

took place in the reign of the Emperor Claudius under the general

Aulus Plautius. The Roman fleet sailed from Gesoriacum (Boulogne), the

terminus of the Roman military road across Gaul, and carried an army of

four legions with cavalry and auxiliaries, about 50,000 in all, to the

landing-places of Dover, Hythe, and Richborough.

No mention of London is made in the history of this campaign.

Colchester and Gloucester were the principal Roman strongholds.

Writing in the year A.D. 61, Tacitus gives us the first mention of

London. He says, “At Suetonius mirâ constantiâ medios inter hostes

Londinium perrexit cognomento quidem coloniâ non insigne sed copiâ

negotiatorum et commeatuum maxime celebre.”

This is all that we know. There is no mention of London in either of

Cæsar’s invasions; none in that of Aulus Plautius. When we do hear

of it, the place is full of merchants, and had been so far a centre

of trade. The inference would seem to be, not that London was not in

existence in the years 55 B.C. or 43 A.D., or that neither Cæsar nor

Aulus Plautius heard of it, but simply that they did not see the town

and so did not think it of consequence.

If we consider a map showing the original lie of the ground on and

about the site of any great city, we shall presently understand not

only the reasons why the city was founded on that spot, but also

how the position of the city has from the beginning exercised a very

important influence on its history and its fortunes. Position affects

the question of defence or of offence. Position affects the plenty or

the scarcity of supplies. The prosperity of the city is hindered or

advanced by the presence or the absence of bridges, fords, rivers,

seas, mountains, plains, marshes, pastures, or arable fields. Distance

from the frontier, the proximity of hostile tribes and powers,

climate—a seaport closed with ice for six months in the year is

severely handicapped against one that is open all the year—these and

many other considerations enter into the question of position. They are

elementary, but they are important.

We have already in the first chapter considered this important question

under the guidance of Professor T. G. Bonney, F.R.S. Let us sum up

the conclusions, and from his facts try to picture the site of London

before the city was built.

Here we have before us, first, a city of great antiquity and

importance; beside it a smaller city, practically absorbed in the

greater, but, as I shall presently prove, the more ancient; thirdly,

certain suburbs which in course of time grew up and clustered round the

city wall, and are now also practically part of the city; lastly, a

collection of villages and hamlets which, by reason of their proximity

to the city, have grown into cities which anywhere else would be

accounted great, rich, and powerful. The area over which we have to

conduct our survey is of irregular shape, its boundaries following

those of the electoral districts. It includes Wormwood Scrubbs on the

west and Plaistow on the east. It reaches from Hampstead in the north

to Penge and Streatham in the south. Roughly speaking, it is an area

seventeen miles in breadth from east to west, and eleven from north to

south. There runs through it from west to east, dividing the area into

two unequal parts, a broad river, pursuing a serpentine course of loops

and bends, winding curves and straight reaches; a tidal river which,

but for the embankments and wharves which line it on each side, would

overflow at every high tide into the streets and lanes abutting on it.

Streams run into the river from the north and from the south: these we

will treat separately. At present they are, with one or two exceptions,

all covered over and hidden.

Remove from this area every house, road, bridge, and all cultivated

ground, every trace of occupation by man. What do we find? First, a

broad marsh. In the marsh there are here and there low-lying islets

raised a foot or two above high tide; they are covered with rushes,

reeds, brambles, and coarse sedge; some of them are deltas of small

affluents caused by the deposit of branches, leaves, and earth brought

down by the stream and gradually accumulating till an island has been

formed; some are islands formed in the shallows of the river by the

same process. These islands are the haunt of innumerable wild birds.

The river, which now runs between strong and high embankments, ran

through this vast marsh. The marsh extended from Fulham at least, to

go no farther west, as far as Greenwich, to go no farther east; from

west to east it was in some places two miles and a half broad. The map

shows that the marsh included those districts which are now called

Fulham, West Kensington, Pimlico, Battersea, Kennington, Lambeth,

Stockwell, Southwark, Newington, Bermondsey, Rotherhithe, Deptford,

Blackwall, Wapping, Poplar, the Isle of Dogs. In other words, the half

at least of modern London is built upon this marsh. At high tide the

whole of this vast expanse was covered with water, forming exactly

such a lovely lake as one may now see, standing at the water-gate of

Porchester Castle and looking across the upper stretches of Portsmouth

harbour, or as one may see from any point in Poole harbour when the

tide is high. It was a lake bright and clear; here and there lay the

islets, green in summer, brown in winter; there were wild duck, wild

geese, herons, and a thousand other birds flying over it in myriads

with never-ending cries. At low tide the marsh was black mud, and on a

day cloudy and overcast a dreary and desolate place. How came a city to

be founded on a marsh? That we shall presently understand.

[Illustration: THE MARSHES OF EARLY LONDON]

Many names still survive to show the presence of the islets I have

mentioned. For instance, Chelsea is Chesil-ey—the Isle of Shingle

(so also Winchelsea). Battersea has been commonly, but I believe

erroneously, supposed to be Peter’s Isle; Thorney is the Isle of

Bramble; Tothill means the Hill of the Hill; Lambeth is the “place of

mud,” though it has been interpreted as the place where lambs play;

Bermondsey is the Isle of Bermond. Doubtless there are many others, but

their names, if they had names, and their sites have long since been

forgotten.

Several streams fell into the river. Those on the north were afterwards

called Bridge Creek, the Westbourne, the Tybourne, the Fleet or Wells

River, the Walbrook, and the Lea. Those on the south were the Wandle,

the Falcon, the Effra, the Ravensbourne, and other brooks without

names. Of the northern streams the first and last concern us little.

The Bridge Creek rose near Wormwood Scrubbs, and running along the

western slope of Notting Hill, fell into the Thames a little higher up

than Battersea Bridge. The Westbourne, a larger stream, is remarkable

for the fact that it remains in the Serpentine. Four or five rills

flowing from Telegraph Hill, at Hampstead, unite, and after running

through West Hampstead receive the waters of another stream formed of

two or three rills rising at Frognal. The junction is at Kilburn. The

stream, thus increased in volume, runs south and enters Kensington

Gardens at the head of the Serpentine, into which it flows, passing out

at the south end. It crosses Knightsbridge at Albert Gate, passes along

Cadogan Place, and finally falls into the Thames at Chelsea Embankment.

Of the places which it passed, especially Kilburn Priory, we shall

have more to say later on. Meantime we gather that Kilburn, Westbourne

Terrace, Knightsbridge, and Westbourne Street, Chelsea, owe their names

to this little stream.

The Tyburn, a smaller stream, but not without its importance, took

its rise from a spring called the Shepherd’s Well, which formed a

small pool in the midst of the fields called variously the Shepherd’s

Fields, or the Conduit Fields, but later on the Swiss Cottage Fields.

The site is marked by a drinking-fountain on the right hand rather

more than half way up FitzJohn’s Avenue. The water was remarkable

for its purity, and as late as fifty or sixty years ago water-carts

came every morning to carry off a supply for those who would drink no

other. The stream ran down the hill a little to the east of FitzJohn’s

Avenue, crossed Belsize Lane, flowed south as far as the west end of

King Henry’s Road, then turning west, crossed Avenue Road, and flowed

south again till it came to Acacia Road. Here it received an affluent

from the gardens and fields of Belsize Manor and Park. Thence south

again with occasional deflections, east and west, across the north-west

corner of Regent’s Park, receiving another little affluent in the

Park; then down a part of Upper Baker Street, Gloucester Road, taking

a south-easterly course from Dorset Street to Great Marylebone Lane.

It crossed Oxford Street at the east corner of James Street, ran along

the west side of South Molton Street, turned again to the south-west,

crossed Piccadilly at Brick Street, and running across Green Park it

passed in front of Buckingham Palace. Here the stream entered upon the

marsh, which at high tide was covered with water. Then, as sometimes

happens with marshes, the stream divided. One—the larger part—ran down

College Street into the Thames; the other, not so large, turned to the

north-east and presently flowed down Gardener’s Lane and across King’s

Street to the river.

The principal interest attaching to this little river is that it

actually created the island which we now call Westminster. The island

was formed by the detritus of the Tyburn. How many centuries it took to

grow one need not stop to inquire: it is enough to mark that Thorney

Island, like the Camargue, or the delta of the Nile, was created by the

deposit of a stream.

The Fleet River—otherwise called the River of Wells, or Turnmill Brook,

or Holebourne—the fourth of the northern streams, was formerly, near

its approach to London, a very considerable stream. Its most ancient

name was the “Holebourne,” _i.e._ the stream that flows in a hollow.

It was called the River of Wells on account of the great number of

wells or springs whose waters it received; and the “Fleet,” because at

its mouth it was a “fleet,” or channel covered with shallow water at

high tide. The stream was formed by the junction of two main branches,

one of which rose in the Vale of Health, Hampstead, and the other in

Ken Wood between Hampstead and Highgate. There were several small

affluents along the whole course of the stream. The spot where the

two branches united was in a place now called Hawley Road, Kentish

Town Road. Its course then led past old St. Pancras Church, on the

west, between St. Pancras and King’s Cross Stations on the east side

of Gray’s Inn Road, down Farringdon Road, Farringdon Street, and New

Bridge Street, into the Thames. The wells which gave the stream one of

its names were—Clerkenwell, Skinnerswell, Fagswell, Godwell (sometimes

incorrectly spelt Todwell), Loderswell, Radwell, Bridewell, St. Chad’s

Well. At its mouth the stream was broad enough and deep enough to be

navigable for a short distance. It became, however, in later times

nothing better than an open pestilential sewer. Attempts were made from

time to time to cleanse the stream, but without success. All attempts

failed, for the simple reason that Acts of Parliament without an

executive police and the goodwill of the people always do fail. Three

hundred years later Ben Jonson describes its condition:—

Whose banks upon

Your Fleet Lane Furies and not Cooks do dwell,

That, with still scalding steam, make the place Hell;

The banks run grease and hair of meazled hogs,

The heads, houghs, entrails, and the hides of dogs;

For, to say truth, what scullion is so nasty

To put the skins and offals in a pasty?

The banks continued to be encumbered with tenements, lay-stalls, and

“houses of office,” until the Fire swept all away. After this they were

enclosed by a stone embankment on either side, and the lower part of

the river became a canal forty feet wide, and, at the upper end, five

feet deep, with wharves on both sides. Four bridges were built over

the canal—viz. at Bridewell, at Fleet Street, at Fleet Lane, and at

Holborn. But the canal proved unsuccessful, the stream became choked

again and resumed its old function as a sewer. Everybody remembers the

Fleet in connection with the _Dunciad_—

To where Fleet Ditch with disemboguing streams

Rolls its large tribute of dead dogs to Thames.

In the year 1737 the canal between Holborn and Fleet Street was covered

over, and in 1765 the lower part between Fleet Street and the Thames

was also covered.

So much for the history of the stream. Its importance to the city

was very great. It formed a natural ditch on the western side. Its

eastern bank rose steeply, much more steeply than at present, forming

originally a low cliff; its western bank was not so steep. Between

what is now Fleet Lane and the Thames there was originally a small

marsh covered with water at high tide, part, in fact, of the great

Thames marsh; above Fleet Lane the stream became a pleasant country

brook meandering among the fields and moors of the north. The Fleet

determined the western boundary, and protected the city on that side.

The Walbrook, like the Westbourne, was formed by the confluence of

several rills; its two main branches rose respectively in Hoxton and

in Moorfields. It entered the city through a culvert a little to the

west of Little Bell Alley, London Wall. It ran along the course of

that alley; crossed Lothbury exactly east of St. Margaret’s Church;

passed under the present Bank of England into Princes Street; and next

under what is now the Joint Stock Bank, down St. Mildred’s Court,

and so across the Poultry. It did not run down the street called

“Walbrook,” but on the west side of it, past two churches which have

now vanished—St. Stephen’s, which formerly stood exactly opposite its

present site; and St. John, Walbrook, on the north-east corner of Cloak

Lane,—and it made its way into the river between the lanes called

Friars’ Alley and Joiners’ Hall. The outfall has been changed, and the

stream now runs under Walbrook, finding its way into the Thames at

Dowgate Dock.

When the City wall was built the water was conducted through it by

means of a culvert; when the City ditch was constructed the water

ceased, or only flowed after a downfall of heavy rain. But the Walbrook

did not altogether cease; it continued as a much smaller stream from

a former affluent rising under the south-east angle of the Bank of

England. The banks of the Walbrook were a favourite place for the

villas of the wealthier people in Roman London; many Roman remains

have been found there; and piles of timber have been uncovered. A

fragment of a bridge over the stream has also been found, and is in the

Guildhall Museum.

It has been generally believed that the Walbrook was at no time other

than a very small stream. The following passage, then, by Sir William

Tite (_Antiquities found in the Royal Exchange_) will perhaps be

received with some surprise. The fact of this unexpected discovery

seems to have been neglected or disbelieved, because recent antiquaries

make no reference to it. Any statement, however, bearing the name of

Sir William Tite deserves at least to be placed on record.

“With respect to the width of the Walbrook, the sewerage excavations

in the streets called Tower-Royal and Little St. Thomas Apostle, and

also in Cloak Lane, discovered the channel of the river to be 248 feet

wide, filled with made-earth and mud, placed in horizontal layers, and

containing a quantity of black timber of small scantling. The form of

the banks was likewise perfectly to be traced, covered with rank grass

and weeds. The digging varied from 18 feet 9 inches in depth, but the

bottom of the Walbrook was of course never reached in those parts,

as even in Princes Street it is upwards of 30 feet below the present

surface. A record cited by Stow proves that this river was crossed by

several stone bridges, for which especial keepers were appointed; as

also that the parish of St. Stephen-upon-Walbrook ought of right to

scour the course of the said brook. That the river was navigable up

to the City wall on the north is said to have been confirmed by the

finding of a keel and some other parts of a boat, afterwards carried

away with the rubbish, in digging the foundations of a house at the

south-east corner of Moorgate Street. But whether such a discovery

were really made or not, the excavations referred to appear at least

to remove all the improbability of the tradition that ‘when the

Walbrook did lie open barges were rowed out of the Thames or towed up

to Barge yard.’ As the Church of St. Stephen-upon-Walbrook was removed

to the present site in the year 1429, it is probable that the river

was ‘vaulted over with brick and paved level with the streets and

lanes through which it passed’ about the same period; the continual

accumulation of mud in the channel, and the value of the space which

it occupied, then rapidly increasing, equally contributing to such an

improvement.”

Whether Sir William’s inference is correct or no, the river in early

times, like the Fleet, partook of the tidal nature of the Thames.

Attempts have been made to prove that a stream or a rivulet at some

time flowed along Cheapside and fell into the Walbrook. It is by no

means impossible that there were springs in this place, just as there

is, or was, a spring under what is now the site of the Bank of England.

The argument, or the suggestion, is as follows:—

Under the tower of St. Mary-le-Bow were found the walls and pavement of

an ancient Roman building, together with a Roman causeway four feet in

thickness. The land on the north side of London was all moorish, with

frequent springs and ponds. The causeway may have been conducted over

or beside such a moorish piece of ground. Of course, in speaking of

Roman London we must put aside altogether West Chepe as a street or as

a market. Now it is stated that in the year 1090, when the roof of Bow

Church was blown off by a hurricane, the rafters, which were 26 feet

long, penetrated more than 20 feet into the soft soil of Cheapside. The

difficulty of believing this statement is very great. For if the soil

was so soft it must have been little better than a quagmire, impossible

for a foot-passenger to walk upon, and it would have been beyond the

power of the time to build upon it. But if the rafters were hurled

through the air for 400 feet or so, they might fall into the muddy

banks of the Walbrook.[14] A strange story is told by Maitland:—

“At Bread Street Corner, the North-east End, in 1595, one Thomas

Tomlinson causing in the High Street of Cheap a Vault to be digged and

made, there was found, at 15 feet deep, a fair Pavement, like that

above Ground. And at the further End, at the Channel, was found a Tree,

sawed into five Steps, which was to step over some Brook running out

of the West, towards Walbrook. And upon the Edge of the said Brook,

as it seemeth, there were found lying along the Bodies of two great

Trees, the Ends whereof were then sawed off; and firm Timber, as at

the first when they fell: Part of the said Trees remain yet in the

Ground undigged. It was all forced Ground, until they went past the

Trees aforesaid; which was about seventeen Feet deep, or better. Thus

much hath the Ground of this City (in that Place) been raised from the

Main.” (Maitland, vol. ii. pp. 826-827.)

It would seem as if at some remote period there had been at this spot

either a marsh, or a pond, or a stream. If a stream, when was it

diverted, and how? Or when did it dry up, and why? And did the stream,

if there was one, run north, west, south, or east? There is no doubt

that the ground has been raised some 18 feet since Roman times, for not

only were the buildings under Bow Church at that depth, but opposite,

under Honey Lane Market, Milk Street, and Mercers’ Hall, Roman remains

have been found at the same depth.

In any case, West Chepe could not have come into existence as a market

on the site of a running stream or on a quagmire, and the diversion or

the digging up of the stream, if there was one, must have taken place

before the settlement by the Saxons.

The Lea can hardly be considered as belonging to London. It is within

the memory of men still living that suburbs of London have grown up

upon its banks. But the marshes which still remain formed anciently an

important defence of the City. They were as extensive, and, except in

one or two places, without fords. The river which ran through them was

broad and deep. It was probably in these marshes that the Roman legions

on one occasion fell into difficulties. And except for the fords the

Lea remained impassable for a long way north—nearly as far as Ware.

As regards the streams of the south, they have little bearing upon

the history of the City. The essential point about the south was the

vast extent of the marsh spread out before the newly founded town.

Until the causeway from Stonegate Lambeth to the rising ground at

Deptford was constructed these marshes were absolutely impassable.

Four or five streams crossed them. The most westerly of these, the

Wandle, discharges its waters opposite to Fulham; it is a considerable

stream, and above Wandsworth is still dear to anglers. At its mouth

a delta was formed exactly like that at Thorney; this was called

afterwards Wandsworth Island. The Falcon Brook ran into the Thames

above Battersea; it seems to have been an inconsiderable brook. No

antiquary, so far as I know, has ever explored its course. The Effra

is an interesting stream, because until quite recently—that is, within

the last fifty years—it ran, an open, clear, and very beautiful brook,

through the Dulwich Fields and down the Brixton Road past Kennington

Church. In Rocque’s map it is made to rise about half a mile west of

Dulwich College, near a spot called Island Green, which now appears

as Knights’ Hill; but I am informed by a correspondent that this is

wrong, and that it really rose in the hills of Norwood. It was a pretty

stream flowing in front of cottages to which access was gained by

little wooden bridges. The stream was overhung by laburnums, hawthorns,

and chestnut trees. I myself remember seeing it as a boy in Dulwich

Fields, but it was by that time already arched over lower down. There

was a tradition that ships could formerly sail up the Effra as far as

Kennington Church. It falls into the Thames nearly opposite Pimlico

Pier. Had it kept its course without turning to the west it might have

formed part of King Cnut’s trench, which would have accounted for the

tradition of the ships. Another and a nameless stream is represented on

old maps as flowing through the marsh into the Thames opposite the Isle

of Dogs. The most easterly stream is the Ravensbourne, which at its

mouth becomes Deptford Creek. This, like the Wandle and the Lea, was

higher up a beautiful stream with many smaller affluents.

As for the land north and south of this marsh, it rises out of the

marsh as a low cliff from twenty to forty feet high. On the south side

this cliff is a mile, two miles, and even three miles from the river.

On the north side, while there are very extensive marshes where now are

Fulham, South and West Kensington, the Isle of Dogs, and the Valley of

the Lea, further eastward the cliff approaches the river, touches it

and overhangs it at one point near Dowgate, and runs close beside it

as far as Charing Cross, whence it continues in a westerly direction,

while the river turns south.

Behind the cliff on the south rose in long lines, one behind the other,

a range of gentle hills. They were covered with wood. Between them,

on high plateaux, extended heaths of great beauty clothed with gorse,

heather and broom, bramble and wild flowers.

On the north the ground also rose beyond the first ridge of cliff, but

slowly, till it met the range of hills now known as Hampstead and

Highgate. All the ground was moorland waste and forest, intersected

with rivulets, covered with dark ponds and quagmires: a country

dangerous at all times, and sometimes quite impassable. On the northern

part was the great forest called afterwards the Middlesex Forest.

Such in prehistoric days was the site of London. A more unpromising

place for the situation of a great city can hardly be imagined. Marsh

in front, and moor behind; marsh to right, and marsh to left; barren

heath on the south to balance waste moorland on the north. A river

filled with fish; islets covered with wild birds; a forest containing

wild cattle, bear, and wolf; but of arable land, not an acre. A town

does not live by hunting; it cannot live upon game alone; and yet

on this forbidding spot was London founded; and, in spite of these

unpromising conditions, London prospered.

FOOTNOTES:

[14] Tite, _Antiquities of the Royal Exchange_, p. xxvii.

CHAPTER III

THE EARLIEST INHABITANTS

Who were the earliest settlers and inhabitants of London?

Those who have seen the lake-dwellings of Glastonbury—to take a

familiar illustration—and have considered the conditions necessary

to such a colony, will come to the conclusion that there, at all

events, lake-dwellers would find everything that Nature could give

them. Thus, at Glastonbury the huts of the inhabitants were planted

on wooden foundations in a marshy place, covered with water at high

tide, perhaps at low tide as well. There was land within reach where

the people could keep cattle, or could plough and sow and reap. That

they did keep cattle and grow corn there is evidence in the things

found beside and around the huts. Again, at Glastonbury there were many

islets and a large extent of low-lying ground which were the homes

and the resting-places of countless wild birds. And at Glastonbury

the people were on a creek of the sea, and, by rowing a mile or two

down the creek they could find themselves in deep water abounding with

fish. All these conditions were also present at London: a deep and

broad stream containing fish in abundance; an extensive marsh covered

with islets where were wild birds in multitudes; and raised lands,

such as that lying between Ludgate Hill and Charing Cross, which might

be used for pasture or for tillage. If any remains of lake-dwellings

were ever found among the marshes and shallow backwaters of London, it

must have been long before such things were understood, so that they

were swept away without so much as a record of their existence. It is

not certain that there were such settlements here. If vestiges of them

had ever been found among the marshes and tidal lagoons of the Essex

coast, it would strengthen the theory that this prehistoric people

had villages here. I believe, however, that no such remains have been

found in Essex. My theory wants confirmation. I cannot prove, though I

believe, that lake-dwellings were the first settlements on the London

marshes: that the people drove piles into the mud and laid beams

across—there was plenty of wood either on the Surrey hills or on the

northern heights; that they made a floor or foundation of clay; that

they carried uprights round the circular foundation; that they made

their cottages wind and rain proof, with wattle and daub at the sides,

and thatch for the roof; that every house had its boat, its net, its

slings; that they grew corn on the land around; that they had flocks

and herds; that they lived in such comfort as they knew or desired.

Whence they came, how long they stayed, why they departed or

disappeared, I know not.

What I surmise, however, is theory. Whether it is true or not matters

little; what happened next is more certain.

If you consider the site of London once more you will realise—I have

already called attention to the point—that the cliff on the north side

closes in and overhangs the river in two little hillocks beside the

Walbrook. Between the feet of the two hills there is no marsh; the

stream running down between the hills forms a natural port; either

hillock is fit for the construction of a fort, such as forts were then.

Hunters in the forest discovered these two hill-tops, with the moorland

and the woods behind, and the river and the marsh in front. They came;

they built their fort, protected partly by the steeply sloping sides

to south and east, partly by stockade and trench; and they called the

place Llyn Din, the Lake-Fortress. Why they came, when they came, how

they dispossessed the lake-dwellers, against what real or imaginary foe

they constructed their fort, I know not.

Nor do I know how long the people continued to occupy peacefully the

fortress they had constructed. It may have been a period of many

hundreds of years. The fort may have been besieged and taken a hundred

times. Meantime there began, either before or after the construction

of this fort or settlement of Llyn Din, some communication between the

people of the island and those of the Continent. Trade was opened up;

the islanders learned that there were many things which they could

exchange and sell. There were Phœnicians who came for tin; there were

Germans and Gauls who came for iron, skins, and slaves.

Trade began, but not yet in London, where the fisherman’s coracle was

the only boat upon the river, and the cry of the wild duck, the song of

the lark, and the swish of the water or the whistle of the wind among

the reeds were the only sounds.

Higher up the Thames, as we know, there was an island, named, long

afterwards, Thorney. It was a very large island, considering its

position, being about a quarter of a mile in length and rather less

in breadth. On the west side of this island was a branch of the

great marsh already described; on the east side the river was broad

and shallow and could be forded at low water, the ford conducting

the traveller to another low island, afterwards called Lamb Hythe,

probably meaning the Place of Mud. This was the lowest ford on the

river, and the most convenient for those desirous of passing from Dover

or the districts of Kent and Surrey to the north, or from the north

and midland to Dover, then the principal, perhaps—unless Southampton

had been founded already—the only trading port. So that the great

highway which ran right through the country from Dover to Chester, with

branches or affluents on either side, crossed the Thames at this point,

passing straight through the marsh and ford. In other words, before

the Port of London came into existence at all, Thorney was a stage or

station on the highway up and down which flowed the whole trade of the

island. Again, in other words, while London was as yet only a rude

hill fortress, perhaps while it was only a village of lake-dwellers in

the marsh, perhaps before it came into existence at all, Thorney was a

place thronged with those who daily went across the ford and marsh, a

busy and a populous place. This statement may not be readily accepted.

Let us therefore examine more closely into the reasons which support it.

Archæological conclusions of every kind rest upon evidences which may

be classified under five heads: (1) the evidence of situation; (2) the

evidence of excavation; (3) the evidence of ancient monuments; (4) the

evidence of tradition; and (5) the evidence of history, to which may be

added the evidence of coins.

1. _The Evidence of Situation._—This we have seen already. Thorney

was a stepping-stone lying between a marsh and a tidal river fordable

at low tide. It was on the great highway of trade from the north to

the south. At high tide the marsh was covered with water and extended

from the site of the future Abbey to the site of the future Buckingham

Palace; it covered the sites of St. James’s Park, Tothill Fields, the

Five Fields, part of Chelsea, Earl’s Court, and Victoria. At low tide

it was a broad expanse of mud, relieved by patches of sedge and rush.

One could wade across the marsh either at high or low tide. The way was

marked by stakes, and by large stones laid in the mud. On the other

side, the river, here much broader than below, was fordable at low

water. The way, also marked by stakes, conducted the traveller from

Thorney to Lamb Hythe, afterwards called Lambeth.

2. _Evidence of Excavation._—Excavation has shown, what nothing else

could have disclosed, the presence on this spot of the Romans. In 1869,

a date at which the Roman occupation of Thorney had not been surmised,

a very fine sarcophagus was found in the nave of the Abbey with the

name of Valerius Amandinus upon it. A cross is cut upon the cover, so

that the occupant—perhaps not the first—was a Christian. Probably he

was a Christian of the third or fourth century. The sarcophagus is now

placed at the entrance of the Chapter-House (see p. 67). Ten years ago

another discovery was made: in digging a grave under the pavement of

the nave a fine mosaic pavement was discovered. There was therefore a

Roman villa on this spot. And during the last few years, which have

witnessed a great deal of digging at Thorney, Roman fragments have been

found in great quantities. There was therefore, most certainly, a Roman

settlement upon this island.

3. _Evidence of Ancient Monuments._—The evidence of monuments is simply

this. The great high road through the Midlands to Chester and to York,

found here as a beaten track by the Romans, converted by them into a

Roman road after the customary fashion, named afterwards by the Saxons

Watling Street, ran formerly straight along what is now the Edgware

Road; when it reached the spot now covered by the Marble Arch it

continued down Park Lane, or, as it was once called, Tyburn Lane, till

it reached the end of the marsh already described. There it broke off

abruptly. At this point the traveller began to wade through the marsh.

Arrived at Thorney, he made of it a resting-place for the night. In the

morning, when he proceeded with his journey, he forded the river at

low tide, and presently found himself once more upon a solid road, the

memory of which is still preserved in Stangate Street, Lambeth.

[Illustration: SIDE OF FONT, EAST MEON CHURCH, HAMPSHIRE

From _Archæologia_, vol. x.]

4. We have next the _Evidence of Tradition._—According to this

authority we learn that the first Christian king was one Lucius, who in

the year 178 addressed a letter to the then Pope, Eleutherius, begging

for missionaries to instruct his people and himself in the Christian

faith. The Pope sent two priests named Ffagan and Dyfan, who converted

the whole island. Bede tells this story; the old Welsh chroniclers

also tell it, giving the British name of the king, Lleurwg ap Coel ap

Cyllin. He it was who erected a church on the Isle of Thorney, in place

of a temple of Apollo formerly standing there. We are reminded, when we

read this story, that St. Paul’s Cathedral was said to have been built

on the site of a temple of Diana.

This church, it is said, continued in prosperity until the arrival,

two hundred and fifty years later, of the murderous Saxon. First, news

came up the river that the invader was on the Isle of Rum, which we

call Thanet; next, that he held the river on both banks; then that he

had overrun Essex, that he had overrun Kent. And when that happened

the procession of merchandise stopped suddenly, for the ports of Kent

were in the hands of the enemy. There was no more traffic on Watling

Street. The travellers grew fewer daily, till one day a troop of wild

Saxons came across the ford, surprised the priests and the fisher-folk

who still remained, and left the island as desolate and silent as could

be desired for the meditation of holy men. This done, the Saxons went

on their way. They overran the midland country; they drove the Britons

back—still farther back—till they reached the mountains. No more news

came to Thorney, for, though the ford continued, the island, like so

many of the Roman stations, remained waste.

[Illustration: SIDE OF FONT, EAST MEON CHURCH, HAMPSHIRE

From _Archæologia_, vol. x.]

In fulness of time the Saxon himself settled down, became a man of

peace, obeyed the order of the convert king to be baptized and to enter

the Christian faith; and when King Sebert had been persuaded to build

a church to St. Paul on the highest ground of London, he was further

convinced that it was his duty to restore the ruined church of St.

Peter on the Isle of Thorney beside the ford. Scandal, indeed, would

it be for the throng that once more daily passed through the ford and

over the island to see, in a Christian country, the neglected ruins

of a Christian church. Accordingly the builders soon set to work,

and before long the church rose tall and stately. The Miracle of the

Hallowing, often told, may be repeated here. On the eve of the day

fixed by the Bishop of London for the hallowing and dedication of the

new St. Peter’s, one Edric, a fisherman, who lived in Thorney, was

awakened by a loud voice calling him by name. It was midnight. He arose

and went forth. The voice called him again from the opposite side of

the river, which is now Lambeth, bidding him put out his boat to ferry

a man across the river. He obeyed. He found on the shore a venerable

person whose face and habiliments he knew not. The stranger bore in

his hands certain vessels which, as Edric perceived, could only be

intended for church purposes. However, he said nothing, but received

this mysterious visitor into his boat and rowed him across the river.

Arrived in Thorney, the stranger directed his steps to the church and

entered the portal. Straightway—lo! a marvel—the church was lit up

as by a thousand wax tapers, and voices arose chanting psalms—sweet

voices such as no man had ever heard before. He stood and listened. The

voices, he understood, could be none other than those of angels come

down from heaven itself to sing the first service in the new church.

Then the voices fell, and he heard one voice loud and solemn; and then

the heavenly choir uplifted their voices again. Presently all was

still: the service was over; the lights went out as suddenly as they

had appeared; and the stranger came forth.

“Know, O Edric,” he said, while the fisherman’s heart glowed within

him, “know that I am Peter. I have hallowed the church myself.

To-morrow I charge thee that thou tell these things to the Bishop, who

will find in the church a sign and a token of my hallowing. And for

another token, put forth again upon the river, cast thy nets, and thou

shalt receive so great a draught of fishes that there will be no doubt

left in thy mind. But give one-tenth to this my holy church.”

So he vanished, and the fisherman was left alone upon the river bank;

but he put forth as he was directed, and cast his net, and presently

brought ashore a miraculous draught.

In the morning the Bishop with his clergy, and the King with his

following, came up from London in their ships to hallow the church.

They were received by Edric, who told them this strange story. And

within the church the Bishop found the lingering fragrance of incense

far more precious than any that he could offer; on the altar were the

drippings of wax candles (long preserved as holy relics, being none

other than the wax candles of heaven), and written in the dust certain

words in the Greek character. He doubted no longer. He proclaimed the

joyous news. He held a service of thanksgiving instead of a hallowing.

Who would not hold a service of praise and humble gratitude for such a

mark of heavenly favour? And after service they returned to London and

held a banquet, with Edric’s finest salmon lying on a lordly dish in

the midst.

How it was that Peter, who came from heaven direct, could not cross the

river except in a boat was never explained or asked. Perhaps we have

here a little confusion between Rome and Heaven. Dover Street, we know,

broke off at the edge of the marsh, and Dover Street led to Dover, and

Dover to Rome.

5. We are now prepared for the _Evidence of History_, which is

not perhaps so interesting as that of tradition. Clio, it must be

confessed, is sometimes dull. One misses the imagination and the

daring flights of her sister, the tenth Muse—the Muse of Fiction. The

earliest document which refers to the Abbey is a conveyance by Offa,

King of Mercia, of a manor called Aldenham to “St. Peter and the people

of the Lord dwelling in Thorney, that ‘terrible’—_i.e._ sacred—place

which is at Westminster.” The date of this ancient document is

A.D. 785; but Bede, who died in 736, does not mention the

foundation. Either, therefore, Bede passed it over purposely, or it was

not thought of importance enough to be mentioned. He does relate the

building of St. Paul’s; but, on the other hand, he does not mention

the hundreds of churches which sprang up all over the country. So that

we need not attach any importance to the omission. My own opinion is

that the church—a rude country church, perhaps—a building like that of

Greenstead, Essex, the walls of split trees and the roof of rushes,

was restored early in the seventh century, and that it did succeed an

earlier church still. The tradition connected with this church is as

ancient as anything we know about it, and the legend of Lucius and his

church is at least supported by the recent discoveries of Roman remains

and the certainty that the place was always of the greatest importance.

[Illustration: OFFA BEING INVESTED WITH SPURS

Nero MS., D. 1.]

There is another argument—or an illustration—in favour of the antiquity

of some church, rude or not, upon this place. I advance it as an

illustration, though to myself it appears to be an argument. I mean the

long list of relics possessed by the Abbey at the Dedication of the

year 1065. We are not concerned with the question whether the relics

were genuine or not, but merely with the fact that they were preserved

by the monks as having been the gifts of various benefactors—Sebert,

Offa, Athelstan, Edgar, Ethelred, Cnut, Queen Emma, and Edward himself.

A church of small importance and of recent building would not dare

to parade such pretensions. It takes time even for pretences to gain

credence and for legends to grow. The relics ascribed to Sebert and

Offa could easily have been carried away on occasion of attack. As

for the nature of these sacred fragments, it is pleasant to read

of sand and earth brought from Mount Sinai and Olivet; of the beam

which supported the holy manger; of a piece of the holy manger; of

frankincense presented by the Magi; of the seat on which our Lord was

presented at the Temple; of portions of the holy cross presented by

four kings at different times; of bones and vestments belonging to

Apostles and Martyrs and the Virgin Mary, and saints without number,

whose very names are now forgotten. In the cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle

you may see just such a collection as that which the monks of St. Peter

displayed before the reverent and uncritical eyes of the Confessor.

We may remember that in the ninth and tenth centuries the rage for

pilgrimising extended over the whole of Western Europe; pilgrims

crowded every road, they marched in armies, and they returned laden

with treasures—water from the Jordan, sand from Sinai, clods of earth

from Gethsemane, and bones and bits of sacred wood without number. When

Peter the Hermit arose to preach, it was but putting a match to a pile

ready to be fired. But for such a list as that preserved by history,

there was need of time as well as of credulity.

Roman Britain, we have said, was Christian for at least a hundred and

fifty years. Therefore it would be nothing out of the way or unusual

to find monastic buildings on Thorney in the fourth century. There

was as yet no Benedictine Rule. St. Martin of Tours introduced the

Egyptian Rule into Gaul—whence it was taken over to England and to

Ireland. It was a simple Rule, resembling that of the Essenes. No one

had any property; all things were in common; the only art allowed to

be practised was that of writing. The older monks devoted their whole

time to prayer; they took their meals together—bread and herbs with

salt—and, except for common prayer and common meals, they rarely left

their cells; these were at first simple huts constructed of clay and

bunches of reeds; their churches were of wood; they shaved their heads

to the line of the ears; they wore leather jerkins, probably because

these lasted longer than cloth of any kind; many of them wore hair

shirts. The wooden church became a stone church; the huts became cells

built about a cloister; next, the cells themselves were abolished, and

a common dormitory was substituted.

All this evidence very clearly, in my opinion, points to the main fact

that Thorney was occupied by the Romans because it was a busy and

crowded station on the high road of British trade.

I have dwelt at some length upon this subject, because the theory of

the earlier antiquity of a town at Thorney, if it can be proved, brings

the foundation of London to a comparatively recent period, though it

still leaves us in the dark as to the date.

We have various records as to this trade. We need not suppose that

Himilco visited and described the island, but we must not hastily

reject the evidence of Pytheas, whose travels took place about the

middle of the fourth century B.C. Pytheas coasted round Gaul,

landed on the shores of Brittany, and worked up the Channel till he

came to a place called “Cantion,” which is perhaps Dover, and perhaps

the North Foreland. Here he landed, and here he stayed for some time,

namely, during the whole of the summer. He found that a great deal of

wheat was raised in the fields; that it was threshed in covered barns

instead of unroofed floors as in the south of France; that the climate

was cloudy and wet; that the longest day was nineteen hours, and that

on the shortest day the sun does not rise more than three cubits above

the horizon; that there were cultivated fruits, a great abundance of

some domestic animals and a scarcity of others; that the people fed on

millet, vegetables, roots, and fruit; and that they made a drink of

honey and wheat—a kind of beer.

The next traveller in Britain of whom an account remains was

Posidonius, about a hundred years before Christ. He described the tin

mines in Cornwall. He says that the tin is made up into slabs shaped

like knuckle-bones, and carried to an island named Ictis, “lying in

front of Britain”—another account makes this island six days’ sail from

Cornwall. The channel between Ictis and Britain was dry at low tide,

when the tin was carried over. It was then taken across to Gaul, and

carried across the country by thirty days’ journey to Marseilles. The

estuary between Thanet and Kent, now silted up, was formerly open for

ships at high tide, and fordable at low tide.

The following is the account given by Avienus, a writer of the fourth

century (quoted in Charles I. Elton’s _Origins of English History_):—

“Beneath this promontory spreads the vast Œstrymnian gulf, in which

rise out of the sea the islands Œstrymnides, scattered with wide

intervals, rich in metal of tin and lead. The people are proud,

clever, and active, and all engaged in incessant cares of commerce.

They furrow the wide rough strait, and the ocean abounding in

sea-monsters, with a new species of boat. For they know not how to

frame keels with pine or maple, as others use, nor to construct their

curved barks with fir; but, strange to tell, they always equip their

vessels with skins joined together, and often traverse the salt sea

in a hide of leather. It is two days’ sail from hence to the Sacred

Island, as the ancients called it, which spreads a wide space of turf

in the midst of the waters, and is inhabited by the Hibernian people.

Near to this again is the broad island of Albion.”

Elton quotes Posidonius on the trade in tin. The merchants, he says,

buy the tin from the natives, and carry it over to Gaul.

Here, then, we have proof of an ancient and extensive trade in tin, and

of a certain stage in civilisation.

There is, however, more.

In the second century B.C. the people had towns, which were

stockaded forts, and villages. They lived in beehive huts, built with

wood and wattle, having roofs of fern and thatch. They were skilled in

some of the arts. They could make cloth and linen for summer and for

winter use; they could dye these materials various colours. They could

work in gold, and wore collars, bracelets, and rings of gold. They dyed

their hair red. They wore a cuirass of plaited leather or chain mail;

for arms they carried sword, pike, bow and arrow, and the sling. They

also had scythed war-chariots. Their weapons were of steel, they could

therefore work in iron; they used a wheeled plough.

Fifty years before the Roman invasion the King of Soissons, Divitiacus,

had made a partial conquest of South Britain, but for generations

before this there had been immigration into the island from Belgium and

settlements had been made along the coast and the rivers.

The internal and external trade of the country is proved by the

evidence of coins.

Where there is a coinage there is trade. That is to say, trade may

be carried on without a coinage, but the existence of a coinage is a

proof that the art of trading is understood, and has long been carried

on. Now the people of this island had their own coinage before Julius

Cæsar landed. How long before is quite uncertain. Some of their ancient

coins are believed to be of the second century B.C. These are

supposed to have been modelled on the coins of the Greeks of the age of

Philip of Macedon, but taken from Gaulish patterns. At the same time,

some of the coins have the appearance of being “centuries older than

Cæsar’s first expedition” (_Monumenta Historica Britannica_, Introd.

151). In either case they are a proof of long-standing trade, and may

have been of very remote antiquity. That the trade was internal is

proved by the fact that ancient British coins belonging to the south of

the country have been found in the north.

[Illustration: AN ARCHER

Strutt’s _Sports and Pastimes_.]

We may, therefore, safely conclude that all these facts point to the

existence of a large trade between the island and the Continent. It was

not out of charity that the tin mines were worked, and the tin sent to

Thanet for exportation.

If now we consider the Roman highways, which were certainly based on

the more ancient tracks, we shall find, not only that five of them

converge on London, but also that London, considering the vast forests

as well as the course of the rivers and the conformation of the coast,

was actually the true centre for the reception and distribution of

imports, and for the reception and forwarding of exports. And we may

further conclude that since Pytheas and Posidonius were evidently

received with hospitality and travelled about everywhere without fear

of violence, the people of the island were accustomed to visits of

foreigners who came to trade. In a word, it is impossible to say when

trade first began between Britain and the Continent; impossible to

estimate its extent; and impossible to ascertain when the principal

centre of trade was found to be most conveniently placed at or near the

site of London.

[Illustration: FIGURES RECONSTRUCTED FROM ANCIENT CLOTHES AND REMAINS

FOUND IN A BOG

From _Archæologia_, vol. vii.]

When first we hear of London at all we learn several very suggestive

facts. First, that the City was already the resort of merchants; next,

that there was a close connection with, and a great intercourse

between, Gallia and Britannia; thirdly, that the people of the south,

at least, possessed the same arts, the same civilisation, as the

Gauls. And the latter had already arrived at that stage when certain

things, impossible to be grown or produced on their own soil, had

ceased to be luxuries, and had become necessaries. Again, we learn

shortly afterwards that the island was thickly populated. Queen

Boadicea’s army, raised wholly in the eastern counties, contained

many thousands; so many that the scattered bands of her army were

able to destroy a great number—history loosely says 70,000, which we

may take to stand for a great number—of the inhabitants of Verulam,

London, and Camulodunum. Again, another point, never yet considered

in this connection, seems also to indicate dense population. All the

way from London down to the Nore, round a large part of the coast of

Essex, and along the coast of Lincolnshire where the foreshore is a

marsh, there runs a great and magnificent embankment. It is not, so

far as can be judged, Roman; that is to say, it has none of the Roman

characteristics: it is a great solid wall of earth faced with stone

which has stood for ages, only giving way at points here and there,

as at Barking in the reign of King Stephen, and at Dagenham in the

reign of Queen Anne. Now, in order to construct such a work two things

are necessary: there must be abundance of labour, also new ground for

cultivation must be in demand. Both these requisites point to a large

population. Given a large population; given also a demand for foreign

commodities among the wealthier class; given, further, the production

of goods wanted abroad—slaves, metals, skins, wool—we can have no doubt

that the trade of Britain, the northern and midland part of which

passed over Thorney, was continuous and very considerable.

In other words, this islet in the midst of marsh and ford, which we

have been always assured was in early times a wild and desolate spot;

chosen, we are also told, as the site of a monastery on account of its

seclusion and remoteness; was, long before any monastery was built

there, the scene of a continuous procession of those who journeyed

south and those who journeyed north. It was a halting and a resting

place for a stream of travellers which flowed continuously all the year

round. By way of Thorney passed the merchants, with the wares which

they were going to embark at Dover bestowed upon pack-horses. By way of

Thorney they drove the long strings of slaves to be sold in Gaul and

perhaps carried into Italy. By way of Thorney passed the caravans for

the north. Always, day after day, even night after night, there was the

clamour of those who came and of those who went: such a clamour as used

to belong, for instance, to the courtyard of an old-fashioned inn, in

and out of which lumbered the loaded waggon grinding heavily over the

stones, the stage-coach, the post-chaise, the merchant rider on his

nag—all with noise. The Isle of Thorney was like that courtyard: it

was a great inn, a halting-place, a bustling, noisy, frequented place,

the centre, and, before the rise of London, the heart of Britain. No

quiet, desolate place, but the actual living centre of the traffic of

the whole island. Not a fortress or a place of strategic importance,

but, as regards the permanent population, a gathering of people drawn

together in order to provide for the wants of travellers—a collection

of inns and taverns.

Thus far we have got. In very early times London was a settlement

of lake-dwellers, then it became a British fortress. Meantime,

communications were established with Gaul by way of Dover, trade began;

the natural highway for trade from the midland and the north was by way

of the most easterly ford over the Thames, therefore Thorney became a

busy and important place, as lying on the trade route of London.

At some time or other merchants found out that London was a much more

convenient and more central place than Dover. The voyage was along the

Kentish coast, for a few miles beyond Dover, and passed by the strait

which parted Thanet from the mainland into the estuary of the Thames,

whence it was safe and easy sailing up the stream to the new trading

port of the lake-fortress.

The next development, naturally, was the diversion of a large part of

the trade from Thorney to London. This diversion took place at the

spot we now call Marble Arch, where the course of the highway was

abandoned, and a new road traced along what is now Oxford Street and

Holborn into the City of London. And thus, gradually, the importance of

Thorney dwindled away. That it remained the stepping-stone for a large

part of the trade till the building of London Bridge there can be no

reason to doubt. Perhaps a considerable part of the trade would have

been carried by the old way still but for the embankment of the river,

which destroyed the ford. There remained the Ferry, which continued

until the middle of the last century. A good deal of trade, no doubt,

still crossed by the Ferry, but when London Bridge was built, and the

shipping lay in the river for the reception of the merchandise, the

route to Dover became gradually abandoned. This we may readily believe

would be some time in the fourth century.

It has been said that no dates can be ascertained which will guide us

in assigning any period to these events. There is, however, one fact

which gives a negative evidence: when Pytheas made his famous voyage

to Britain he does not seem to have seen London. He says nothing about

it. It seems from his account that trade with Gaul had not yet assumed

considerable proportions; that with the Phœnician ships for tin was

confined to the south-western district, and London, which has never

been anything but a place of trade, was not even mentioned to this

traveller. Perhaps—but I do not think that this was so—London did not

yet exist.

[Illustration:

FIGURES IN WOOD AT WOOBURN IN BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, SUPPOSED TO REPRESENT

ITINERANT MASONS

From _Archæologia_, vol. xviii.]

Who were the people that built this fortress over the lake and received

the merchants? They were Celts, and the name that they gave to their

citadel, Llyn Din, is Celtic. Their manners and customs are as well

known as those of any ancient people; their religion is described at

length by many historians; they had poets, musicians, and priests.

They wore on occasion robes embroidered with gold; they had copied the

civilisation of their neighbours the Gauls. The evidence of the barrows

in which the dead were buried shows a great variety of implements and

the knowledge of some arts. Their weapons were mostly of bronze; their

swords were of the “leaf” shape; the spear-heads were of bronze, and

their long knives also of bronze. They carried shields of bronze.

They wore neither helmet nor cuirass; round the neck they placed an

iron collar and round the body an iron belt. They had stone clubs and

flint-headed arrows; they had bronze trumpets; they knew how to coin

money; they practised the art of pottery, making very good vases and

pots; and they made, and used, the terrible war-chariot—a piece of one

was discovered some time ago in Somersetshire.

Again, it is necessary to clear up our ideas concerning the early trade

of London. When we speak on the subject, we are naturally inclined to

think of a mediæval town settled with government residents, a better

class, market-places, trade regulations, and all the accessories of

a late period. Let us, therefore, with a view to this clearance of

understanding, consider the conditions of trade in the centuries—I

repeat that I do not consider that the coming of the Romans had

anything to do with the foundation of London—before the Roman period.

I. The first trading port of the Thames, as we have seen, was that of

Thorney Island—a small place at best, and incapable of enlargement on

account of the marsh-land all round it in every direction except the

south.

II. The discovery of London—with its high ground overhanging the

river, its port of the outflow of the Walbrook, its greater safety,

its ease of access by sea and river—diverted much of the trade from

Thorney, and gradually all the trade.

III. It is impossible to assign any date for this diversion: only one

point is certain, that some importance was attached to Thorney as a

trading centre in Roman times, because the islet is full of Roman

remains.

IV. We take up the story, therefore, at some indefinite period which

began as long before the arrival of the Romans as the reader pleases

to assume, and continued until after the massacre by Boadicea’s

insurgents.

The first and most important condition to be observed is that the

trade of London could only be carried on during the summer months. It

was only in the summer that the ships ventured to cross the Channel;

crept along the coast of Kent, and passed through the channel between

Thanet and the mainland into the river. During the winter months the

sailing of the ships was entirely stopped; the ocean was deserted. This

condition was observed for many centuries afterwards: no ships ventured

to put out for six months at least in the year; even the pirates of

the North Sea hauled up their vessels, and when the Danes came, they

remained for six months every year in their winter quarters.

It was also only in the summer that inland trade could be carried on.

During the winter intercommunications were most difficult, and in many

places impossible; towns were isolated and had to depend on their own

resources; village was separated from village by fenland, moorland,

forest, and trackless marsh: there could be no transport of goods;

there were no markets.

The main limitation, therefore, of early trade was that it had to be

carried on during the summer months alone: allowing for the time taken

up by the voyage to and from the port at either end, the foreign trade

on which the inland trade depended was of necessity confined to a few

weeks.

What does this mean? That the exports had to be brought to the Port by

a certain time: they came on the backs of slaves or by pack-horses. The

imports had to be carried into the country for sale and distribution

as a return journey by the same slaves and pack-horses. The goods were

brought from the country down to the quays, which were rough and rude

constructions on piles and baulks of timber on either side of the

mouth of the Walbrook, and were there exchanged for the imports. The

ships discharged one cargo, then took in another, and sailed away.

Nothing was left over; there was no overlapping of one year with

another; there was no storage of goods over the winter. When the ships

were gone and the caravans had started on their journey through the

country, there was nothing more to be done at the Port till the next

season. London might fall asleep, if there were any London.

In other words, the trade of London at this period was nothing more

than an annual Fair held in the months of July and August, frequented

by the foreign merchants bringing their imports and carrying off the

exports in their vessels, and by the traders, who led their long

processions of pack-horses and slaves from the country to the port,

arriving at the time when the ships were due; they exchanged what they

brought for the goods that came in the ships, and then went away again.

Where they spent the winter it is impossible to say. It is, however,

quite certain that they came to London in the summer from north, east,

south, and west; that they could not come at any other time. These

considerations enable us to understand that London was crowded every

summer during the few weeks of trade, but that in winter there was no

trade, no communication with any other place, and no communication with

abroad. Were there no merchants who stored goods and kept them over who

lived in London permanently? None. As yet, none.

The place was, in fact, exactly like Sturbridge beside Cambridge.

During the annual Fair in summer Sturbridge was a considerable town;

trading of all kinds and from all countries crowded to the place; the

shops and booths were arranged in streets; these streets were filled

with traders and private persons who came from all parts of the country

to the Fair. When the Fair was over the traders disappeared, the booths

were swept away, the place became a large common, empty and deserted

till the next season.

This was the case with London. The trading season was in July and

August, as I read the story: during these months the high ground

either on the east or the west of Walbrook was covered with shops and

booths made of wattle and clay. When the Fair was over the temporary

structures were taken down, or perhaps left to be repaired in the

following season; the conflux of people vanished, and there was no Port

of London for another year. London had no importance at all except

during the short season of the Fair. Nor were there any residents of

importance. There were left none others than the humble folk who fished

in the river, trapped the birds of the marsh, hunted in the forests,

and worked for the ships while they were in the Port.

I think that the annual Fair was held on the west side of Walbrook, for

the simple reason that the Romans, when they built their citadel, chose

the eastern side—that is to say, they took the eastern hill because

they were unwilling to interfere with the trade of the place, which

was mainly carried on upon the western hill. There was no bridge as

yet—otherwise there could have been no massacre by the offended Queen

(see p. 59). As to the time when trade became large, and so continuous

as to demand the erection of warehouses and the creation of a body

of wholesale merchants, I am not able to offer even an approximate

opinion. My conclusions belong to an earlier time, yet partly a Roman

time, when London represented nothing but an annual Fair, while there

were no public buildings, no municipal institutions, no officers or

rulers, except the temporary administrators of a temporary exhibition.

And, as at a Fair, when it was over nothing was left in store or

warehouse for the next year. The ships left their imports behind them,

and brought back exports with them.

It would be interesting to inquire into the continuance of the summer

trade and the slackness of the winter long after the character of

the annual Fair had left London. Galleys came, we know, from Venice

and Genoa every summer; ships laden with wine came every summer from

Bordeaux; ships of the Hanseatic League put out and came into port

every summer from north Europe and the Baltic. What was done in the

twelfth century, for example, during the winter? What amount of trade

could have been carried over roads which for two-thirds of the year

were practically impassable?

The theory of the Fair explains why Cæsar made no mention of London,

and why the Romans at first placed no permanent garrison in the place:

they saw it crowded for a few weeks, and then deserted and of no

account. The massacre of Boadicea first awakened them to a sense of

its strategic as well as its commercial importance. When they built

their citadel and their bridge it was not only to defend the trade

of a few weeks and the scanty population of fisher-folk, but also to

seize and to occupy a stronghold of capital importance as a great

military as well as a great commercial centre. It also explains why no

remains of pre-Roman buildings have been found on the site of London.

Because there were none. The _copia mercatorum_ came, stayed a few

weeks or days, and went away. They found inns and booths for their

accommodation; when they left, the inns and booths were closed, or left

to fall to pieces, for another twelve months.

In the course of time, when the bulk of trade increased and goods of

all kinds began to be stored in warehouses and kept over from year to

year, the limits of the busy time were naturally extended. There was

a great deal to be done in the way of warehousing, arrangement for

the next summer, arrangement with retail merchants and the owners of

caravans which went about the country. But there still remained the

time—six or eight months—during which no ships arrived in port, and the

roads of the country were impassable.

The warehousing, with the rise of a class of men who held the

warehouses and became wholesale merchants, marks a period of extension

and increase in the trade of the Port.

[Illustration: PAVEMENT BEFORE THE ALTAR OF THE PRIOR’S CHAPEL AT ELY

From _Archæologia_, vol. x.]

With the Romans came the time of good roads, warehouses, a settled and

continuous trade, a class of wholesale merchants, quays of convenient

size, new and artificial ports, and the residence for life of a wealthy

and highly civilised community who built villas along the banks of the

Walbrook, and imitated, though imperfectly, the arts and civilisation

of Bordeaux, Marseilles, Treves, and even of Rome.

One point more may be noticed before we step into the open light of

history. The position of London from the very first has been that of

a town which has had to depend upon outside or distant places for her

supplies. In front of her, on either side of her stretched marshes;

behind her stretched moorland: she could grow nothing for her own

people. Outside other towns lay farms, gardens, and pastures: outside

London there was neither farm, nor garden, nor pasture; except the fish

in the river and the fowl in the marsh-land, there was nothing. The

merchant in the time of Agricola, as much as the merchant in the time

of Victoria, lived upon food brought in by private enterprise.

The prehistoric monuments existing in and round London are two in

number: they are the river embankment and the Hampstead barrow. The

date of the embankment cannot be guessed: there is nothing at all to

mark the time of its construction. For trade purposes an embankment

must have been made as soon as trade in London began to develop. We

shall see presently what happened on the north bank. But it was not

enough to improve the river at London Port: it was necessary to reclaim

the marsh-land all along the river north and south. The wall so built

has often been repaired, but it is substantially the same as that

originally constructed. Few know or consider the greatness of the work

or the extent of ground it has converted from marsh-land into pasture.

Those who wish to see it may walk along it from Barking to Tilbury, or

from Tilbury to Southend.

The Hampstead barrow has been called Queen Boadicea’s grave. There is,

however, nothing to lead to the belief that the British Queen lies

buried here. In November 1894 the barrow was opened and carefully

examined. Nothing was found in it—no weapons, no cups, no ornaments,

no bones, no human dust; nothing but “pockets” of charcoal. There may

have been interments in the barrow; the bodies may have been entirely

destroyed so as to leave no trace behind: such things have been known;

but they are not customary. Prof. Hales has suggested that the barrow

is a simple boundary hillock, a position which he has defended with

much learning. However, the question cannot be determined.

There is one name still surviving in London which may possibly belong

to the London of pre-Roman times. The Welsh name for London is Caer

Ludd—the City of Ludder Lud. Now Lludd among the Welsh was the same as

Lir, an ocean-god (Charles Elton, _Origins of English History_). Can

we see in the name Ludgate the survival of the name of a Celtic god to

whom perhaps a temple stood on the hillock overlooking the Thames in

the south and the Fleet in the west?

BOOK II

ROMAN LONDON

CHAPTER I

THE COMING OF THE ROMANS

In August of the year 55 B.C., Cæsar landed on the coast of

Britain with eighty ships, and two legions, the 7th and the 10th. He

stayed in the country three weeks, and during that short period he

fought two battles. In the summer of the following year he landed again

with an army of thirty or forty thousand men and eight hundred ships.

The Britons retreated before his advance, and fought him first at the

passage of the Stour, when they were defeated, and next at a fortified

ford across the Thames, perhaps the place indicated by tradition, now

called “Cowey Stakes,” near Walton on Thames, where they were again

defeated. He then marched upon the stronghold of Cassivellaunus, the

British general, took it by storm, accepted the submission of the

tribes and departed, leaving the island nominally submissive to the

Roman power. He tells us that the manners and customs of the people

of Kent closely resembled those of the Gauls, but that in the more

northern parts the people were much ruder. He also tells us that the

trade with Gaul was carried on by way of Kent.

I have shown the reasons for believing that there was an extensive

trade with Gaul; that it passed through Kent by the road afterwards

called Watling Street and over Thorney Island; that Thorney was a

populous and prosperous place; and that London when the Romans came was

already a port with a considerable amount of trade.

Nearly a hundred years passed away before the islanders were again

disturbed by their Roman conquerors. The prudence of Augustus would

not allow any increase to the garrisoned frontier of the vast Empire.

During this century great changes took place in the island. Many of the

Gauls, escaping from their conquered country, had crossed the Channel

and settled in Britannia: the Atrebates on the country north and south

of the upper Thames; the Parisii in Yorkshire; the Belgæ between the

Solent and the Bristol Channel. The islanders knew the use of money;

they adopted iron and steel for their weapons instead of bronze; they

worked their gold, silver, and iron mines; they exported cattle, hides,

slaves, wheat and barley, and sporting dogs; their chieftains grew

rich; they built cities.

During this century of development London may possibly have been

founded. As we explained in the last chapter, the first essential fact

to be discovered was the central position of London as a port. This

once grasped, the rest would follow easily and quickly. However, this

guessing at a date in a prehistoric event is of little use. The fact

is, we do not know when London was founded, but I have attempted to

prove that the City began with an annual Fair.

It was eighty-eight years after Cæsar’s first visit that Britain was

again invaded. The invasion was undertaken partly at the instigation

of one Bericus, a British prince who had fled to Rome for protection;

partly because, though a so-called province, the country paid no

tribute and sent no hostages; partly because of the belief that it was

rich in gold, silver, and pearls.

The Emperor Claudius therefore resolved upon a new invasion of Britain.

Four legions, the 2nd, the 9th, the 14th, and the 20th, together with

cavalry and auxiliaries, making perhaps 50,000 men, formed the army

of invasion under Aulus Plautius in the year A.D. 43. Some

delay was caused by the mutinous conduct of the troops, who declared

that Britain lay beyond the limits of the world and refused to embark.

However, they agreed at length to follow their General. With Aulus

Plautius were Vespasian, afterwards Emperor, and Vespasian’s brother,

Flavius Sabinus. What happened next to the Roman army is vaguely told

by Dion Cassius. The whole passage is confused: it is evidently written

by one who has no map before him: there is only one thing clear, viz.

that at high tide there was a broad expanse of water, and at low tide a

marsh. Consider the passage—Dion’s account is quoted in Edwin Guest’s

_Origines Celticæ_, vol. ii. p. 397:—

“When they had come to a certain river which the barbarians did not

think the Romans could pass without a bridge, and on that account were

encamped on the opposite side somewhat carelessly, he sends forward

the Keltoi, whose custom it is to swim, with their arms, even over

the most rapid rivers; and they having thus fallen on their opponents

unexpectedly, though they hit none of the men, and only wounded the

horses that drew the chariots, yet, as they were thus thrown into

confusion, the riders could no longer be sure of their safety. He

sent over also Flavius Vespasianus, the same who afterwards obtained

the supreme power, and his brother Sabinus, who served under him as

lieutenant, and so they also, having somewhere passed the river, slew

many of the barbarians who were not expecting them. The rest, however,

did not fly; but on the following day, having again come to an

engagement, they contended on almost equal terms, till Cneius Osidius

Geta, after running the risk of being captured, so thoroughly defeated

them that he obtained triumphal honours, though he had never been

Consul. The Britons having withdrawn themselves thence to the river

Thames whence it empties itself into the ocean and at flow of tide

forms a lake, and having easily passed it, as being well acquainted

with such parts as were firm and easy of passage, the Romans followed

them, but on this occasion failed in their object. The Keltoi,

however, having again swum over, and certain others having passed by

a bridge a little higher up, engaged them on several sides at once,

and cut off many of them; but following the rest heedlessly, they fell

into difficult marshes, and lost many of their men.”

The learned antiquary, Dr. Guest, is of opinion that London had as

yet no existence, for it lay beyond the limits of the Trinobantes;

that the marshes in which Aulus Plautius found himself entangled

were those of the river Lea; that when he withdrew his soldiers he

encamped on what is now the site of London, and that his camp began

the City. He also supposes an uninhabited marsh-land stretching from

the Lea to the Brent. All this is pure assumption. Nothing is said by

the historian about any camp on the site of London. Moreover, Dion

Cassius says nothing about the foundation of London, which, when he

wrote his history about the end of the second century, was a very

great and important city. And, as we have seen, Tacitus, writing in

A.D. 61, speaks of London—it is the first mention of the

town—as a populous and much-frequented place. One cannot believe that

such a city would spring up and flourish in eighteen years. That London

is on the confines or outside the confines of the Trinobantes does not

affect the question, because most assuredly the foundation of London

and its importance were due to its central position as a port and place

of trade. My own opinion, already advanced, is simply that, at the

coming of the Romans, London had arrived at importance on account of

the annual Fair, but on no other account.

The first observation, however, that occurs on reading this passage is

that the historian wrote without a map and without any knowledge of the

country. It is perfectly impossible even to guess where the “certain

river” was; how far it was from the Thames; where, upon the Thames,

the Romans fell into the marshes; or where was the bridge over which

some of the army passed. Dr. Guest thinks that the historian or the

document from which he obtained his account confused the Lea with the

Thames. That, however, brings us no nearer his point, which is that

the Roman camp in which, after the engagements, Aulus Plautius awaited

the arrival of the Emperor Claudius, was on the site of London and was

the actual origin of the City. We may observe that there was not any

bridge over the Thames for at least a hundred years after this battle.

The only British bridges were those of which two or three examples,

perhaps, survive, as on Dartmoor, where a narrow and shallow stream

is crossed by slabs of stone lying on boulders or upright blocks. It

is perfectly certain that there was no such bridge over the Thames;

there may have been one over the Lea, but higher up. For “bridge” read

ford perhaps. But the whole narrative is too confused. If the camp

had been upon one of the twin hillocks overhanging the Walbrook, the

historian would scarcely fail to call attention to the fact that on

this spot had grown up one of the largest and most important towns

in the Roman Empire. But a little consideration will show that Aulus

Plautius would not have placed his camp on that place. First, even a

Roman army did not march through thick forest and over trackless swampy

moorland without an object. Either London was already settled, or it

was a desolate and unknown place. If the former, Aulus may very well

have encamped there, using the ordinary roads of communication. But in

that case he cannot be said to have founded the town. If the latter,

there was no road, or path, or way of getting at the place at all,

save through the forests and moors which closed it in on the north and

west, or over the marshes, or across the river. Now the first thing

the Romans did on getting into a marsh was to get out of it as best

they could—and to encamp on this hillock with marshes and forest all

around, without a road of any kind or description, without any means

of procuring supplies, would have been a military blunder which a

Roman general was incapable of committing. It seems to me, therefore,

perfectly certain that Aulus did not encamp upon the hill above

Walbrook.

For the purposes of this work it is not necessary to inquire where he

did encamp. We may, however, point out that the road from Dover to the

north broke off near Lambeth, where the marsh began, and that it began

again where the marsh ended on the other side opposite Thorney; that

the invaders would certainly use this road; that there was here a ford

at low tide, and that at high tide the marsh became a lake; so that

I think we need go no higher up the river. The place was Lambeth or

Westminster as I read it.

The taking of Camulodunum (Colchester) was followed by the submission

of the tribes. The Emperor was himself present at the conclusion of the

war, and held a splendid triumph, at which was exhibited an imitation

of Camulodunum, which was attacked and defended by thousands of British

captives reserved to kill each other in this mimic war.

The story of the Roman conquest reveals a people stubborn and brave.

Tribe after tribe, nation after nation, fought for freedom; they

were defeated, submitted, revolted, and were defeated again. Their

young men were taken prisoners, were sent to Rome to grace the shows

by fighting in the arena, or were enrolled in regiments and served

in foreign countries. Vespasian and Titus won the south with thirty

pitched battles; Aulus Plautius conquered the Midlands. A line of forts

was constructed from the Severn to the fens; a colony of discharged

soldiers was planted at Camulodunum, and the Britons were turned out of

their farms to make room for these colonists.

CHAPTER II

THE ROMAN RULE

The second appearance of London in history springs out of the revolt

of the Iceni under Boudicca, or, as her name is Latinised, Boadicea.

She was the widow of Prasutagus, King of the Iceni, who bequeathed

his kingdom, hoping thereby to make the possession safe, to the Roman

Cæsar jointly with his wife and daughters. The precaution proved

useless. His kingdom was pillaged by the captains, and his wife and

daughters were dishonoured. With the swiftness of a summer storm, the

Britons from Norfolk, from the fens, from the north, rose with one

consent and poured down upon the Roman colony. The town of Camulodunum

was unfortified; there were no troops except the veterans. Suetonius

Paulinus was far away in North Wales when the great revolt broke out.

The veterans fought for their lives: those were happy who fell in

battle: the prisoners were tortured to death; the women and children

were slaughtered like the rest; the 9th Legion, marching to relieve the

colony, was cut to pieces, only the cavalry escaping.

Paulinus hastened to London—observe that on its first appearance in

history London is a large town. But he judged it best not to make this

place his seat of war, and marched out, in spite of the prayers of the

inhabitants. He allowed, however, those who wished to follow with the

army. As soon as the Roman army was out of the town, the Britons—there

was clearly more than one army of rebels—entered it and slaughtered

every man, woman, and child. At the same time they entered Verulam and

murdered all the population. Over 70,000 people are said to have been

massacred in the three towns of London, Camulodunum, and Verulam. We

need not stop to examine into the figures. It is enough that the three

towns were destroyed with, we are told, all their inhabitants. The

battle at which Suetonius Paulinus defeated the rebels was decisive.

The captive Queen killed herself; the tribes dispersed. Then followed a

time of punishment; and, as regards London, some must have escaped, for

those who still lived went back to the City, rebuilt their houses, and

resumed their ordinary occupations.

The Roman conquest, however, was by no means complete. That remained

to be accomplished by Agricola. There was continual trouble north of

Hadrian’s Wall, but the rest of the island remained in peace for more

than a hundred years after the defeat of Boadicea. As for London, the

City increased every year in wealth and population. The southern part

of the island became rapidly Romanised; tranquillity and order were

followed by trade and wealth; the country was quickly covered with

populous and prosperous towns; the Roman roads were completed; the

Roman authority was everywhere accepted.

[Illustration: STATUE OF A ROMAN WARRIOR FOUND IN A BASTION OF THE

LONDON WALL]

The distribution of the Roman legions after the defeat of the British

Queen is significant. Five only remained: the 2nd, stationed at Isca

Silurum—Caerleon; the 6th and 9th, at York; the 14th, at Colchester

for a time until it was sent over to Germany; and the 20th, at

Deva—Chester. There was no legion in the east—the country of Queen

Boadicea; therefore there was no longer anything to fear from that

quarter. There was none in London; there was none in the south country.

In addition to the legions there were troops of auxiliaries stationed

along the two walls of Antoninus and Hadrian, and probably along the

Welsh frontier.

We may pass very briefly in review the leading incidents of the Roman

occupation, all of which are more or less directly connected with

London.

There can be little doubt that after the massacre by the troops of

Boadicea the Romans built their great fortress on the east side of

the Walbrook. Some of the foundations of the wall, of a most massive

kind, have been found in five places. The fortress, which extended

from the Walbrook to Mincing Lane, and from the river to Cornhill,

occupied an area of 2250 by 1500 feet, which is very nearly the space

then considered necessary in laying out a camp for the accommodation

of a complete legion. It seems as if the Romans had a certain scale of

construction, and laid out their camps according to the scale adopted.

Within this fortress were placed all the official courts and

residences: here was the garrison; here were the courts of law; this

was the city proper. I shall return to the aspect of the fort in

another chapter.

We may safely conclude that the massacre of London by the troops of

Boadicea would not have occurred had there been a bridge by which the

people could escape. It is also safe to conclude that the construction

of a bridge was resolved upon and carried out at the same time as that

of the fortress. In another place will be found my theory as to the

kind of bridge first constructed by the Roman engineers. In this place

we need only call attention to the fact of the construction and to the

gate which connected the fort with the bridge.

After the campaigns of Agricola, history speaks but little of Britain

for more than half a century; though we hear of the spread of learning

and eloquence in the north and west:—

Nunc totus Graias nostrasque habet orbis Athenas;

Gallia causidicos facunda Britannos;

De conducendo loquitur jam rhetore Thule.

And Martial says, with pride, that even the Britons read his verses:—

Dicitur et nostros cantare Britannia versus.

These, however, may be taken as poetic exaggerations.

The Romans, it is quite certain, were consolidating their power by

building towns, making roads, spreading their circle of influence,

and disarming the people. It has been remarked that the tessellated

pavements found in such numbers frequently represent the legend of

Orpheus taming the creatures—Orpheus was Rome; the creatures were her

subjects.

The first half-century of occupation was by no means an unchequered

period of success: the savage tribes of the north, the Caledonii, were

constantly making raids and incursions into the country, rendered so

much the easier by the new and excellent high roads.

In the year 120, Hadrian visited Britain, and marched in person to the

north. As a contemporary poet said—

Ego nolo Cæsar esse,

Ambulare per Britannos,

Sythicas pati pruinas.

He built the great wall from the Solway to the Tyne: a wall 70 miles

long, with an earthen vallum and a deep ditch on its southern side, and

fortified by twenty-three stations, by castles, and wall towers.

[Illustration:

ROMAN KNIFE-HANDLE—FIGURE OF CHARIOTEER, BRONZE

In the collection of C. Roach Smith, Esq., F.S.A.]

Twenty years later, the Proprætor, Lollius Urbicus, drove the

Caledonians northwards into the mountains, and connected the line of

forts erected by Agricola from the Forth to the Clyde by a massive

rampart of earth called the wall of Antoninus.

Again, after twenty years, the Caledonians gave fresh trouble, and

were put down by Ulpius Marcellus under Commodus. On his recall there

was a formidable mutiny of the troops. Pertinax, afterwards, for three

short months, Emperor, was sent to quell the mutiny. He failed, and was

recalled. Albinus, sent in his place, was one of the three generals

who revolted against the merchant Didius Julianus, when that misguided

person bought the throne.

At this time the Roman province of Britain had become extremely rich

and populous. Multitudes of auxiliary troops had been transplanted

into the island, and had settled down and married native women. The

conscription dealt with equal rigour both with their children and the

native Britons. Albinus, at the head of a great army, said to have

consisted of 150,000 men, crossed over to Gaul and fought Severus, who

had already defeated the third competitor, Niger, at Lyons, when he too

met with defeat and death.

Severus, the conqueror, came over to Britain in 208-209. His campaign

in the north was terminated by his death in 212.

For fifty years the island appears to have enjoyed peace and

prosperity. Then came new troubles. I quote Wright[15] on this obscure

period:—

[Illustration: CARAUSIUS

From Dr. Stukeley’s _Medallic History of Carausius_.]

“Amid the disorder and anarchy of the reign of Gallienus (260 to 268),

a number of usurpers arose in different parts of the Empire, who were

popularly called the thirty tyrants, of whom Lollianus, Victorinus,

Postumus, the two Tetrici, and Marius are believed on good grounds to

have assumed the sovereignty in Britain. Perhaps some of these rose

up as rivals at the same time; and from the monuments bearing the

name of Tetricus, found at Bittern, near Southampton, we are perhaps

justified in supposing that the head-quarters of that commander lay

at the station of Clausentum and along the neighbouring coasts. We

have no information of the state of Britain at this time, but it

must have been profoundly agitated by these conflicting claimants

to empire. Yet, though so ready to rise in support of their own

leaders, the troops in Britain seem to have turned a deaf ear to

all solicitations from without. When an officer in the Roman army,

named Bonosus, born in Spain, but descended of a family in Britain,

proclaimed himself Emperor, in the reign of Aurelian, and appealed

for support to the western provinces, he found no sympathy among the

British troops. Another usurper, whose name has not been recorded,

had taken advantage of his appointment to the government of the

island by the Emperor Probus to assume the purple. The frequency of

such usurpations within the island seem to show a desire among the

inhabitants to erect themselves into an independent sovereignty.

We are told that a favourite courtier of Probus, named Victorinus

Maurusius, had recommended this usurper to the proprætorship, and that,

when reproached on this account by the Emperor, Victorinus demanded

permission to visit Britain. When he arrived there, he hastened to

the Proprætor, and sought his protection as a victim who had narrowly

escaped from the tyranny of the Emperor. The new sovereign of Britain

received him with the greatest kindness, and in return was murdered in

the night by his guest. Victorinus returned to Rome to give the Emperor

this convincing proof of his ‘loyalty.’ Probus was succeeded in the

Empire by Carus, and he was followed by Diocletian, who began his reign

in the year 284, and who soon associated with himself in the Empire the

joint Emperor Maximian. Their reign, as far as regards Britain, was

rendered remarkable chiefly by the successful usurpation of Carausius.”

By far the most remarkable of the British usurpers whose history is

connected with that of London was Carausius.

This successful adventurer belonged to a time when there sprang

up every day gallant soldiers, men who had risen from the ranks,

conspicuous by their valour, fortunate in their victories, beloved and

trusted by their soldiers. The temptation to such an one to assume

the purple was irresistible. Examples of such usurpation were to be

found in every part of the unwieldy Empire. To be sure they ended,

for the most part, in defeat and death. But, then, these men had been

facing death ever since they could bear arms. On any day death might

surprise them on the field. Surely it was more glorious to die as

Imperator than as the mere captain of a cohort. Such usurpers, again,

held the crown as they won it, by the sword. They were like the King

of the Grove, who reigned until a stronger than he arose to kill him.

Carausius was a King of the Grove.

His history, so far as it has been told at all, is written by his

enemies. But he was an important man. During his time of power he

caused an immense number of coins to be struck, of which there remain

some three hundred types. These were arranged about the year 1750 by

that eminent antiquary Dr. Stukeley, who not only figured, described,

and annotated them, but also endeavoured to restore from the coins the

whole history of the successful usurper. Dr. Stukeley—a thing which is

rare in his craft—possessed the imagination of a novelist as well as

the antiquary’s passion for the chase of a fact.

Carausius was a Briton, born in Wales, at the city now called St.

David’s. He was of royal descent. He was of noble presence and great

abilities. Maximian found it necessary to continue him in his commands,

and bestowed upon him the distinction of a command in the Empress’s

Regiment, the Ala Serena—Diocletian’s wife was named Eleutheria

Alexandra Serena,—and committed to him the conduct of the expedition

against the revolted Gauls. Carausius executed his trust faithfully

and effectually. In reward for this service Maximian appointed him to

the important dignity of Comes littoris Saxonici, with command of the

fleet, whose duty it was to beat back the pirates always cruising about

the narrow seas in search of booty. The head-quarters of the fleet were

at Gesoriacum (Boulogne), a central position for operations in the

Channel or the North Sea.

In the following year Carausius again fought loyally on the side of

Maximian. But, says Stukeley, “in person, character, and behaviour he

so outshone the Emperor that he exercised an inveterate envy against

him.” Shortly afterwards Carausius, being informed that the Emperor’s

purpose was to murder him, called his officers together, harangued

them, gained them over, secured the fortifications of Boulogne, and

awaited events. Maximian prepared to attack him, but was prevented by

a mutiny of the troops. Carausius, who had now the 4th Legion and many

other troops, was saluted Emperor, and in September A.D. 288

he crossed the Channel, bringing with him the whole of the fleet. It

was the most serious rebellion possible, because it could not be put

down so long as Carausius maintained by his fleet the command of the

sea. It may be doubted whether the joy of London which Dr. Stukeley

sees recorded on the coins in consequence of this arrival was real or

only official. One thing is certain, there had been a revolt in Britain

on account of the tyranny of the Roman Præfect. This was put down, but

not by Carausius. He did not enter the country as its conqueror, in

which case his welcome would not have been joyous: he was the enemy of

the Emperor, as represented by the tyrannical Præfect; and he was a

fellow-countryman. National pride was probably appealed to, and with

success, and on these grounds a demonstration of joy was called for.

The first coin struck by the usurper shows Britannia, with the staff

emblematic of merchandise, grasping the hand of the Emperor in welcome,

with the legend “Expectate veni”—“Come thou long desired.” Another coin

shows Britannia with a cornucopia and a mercurial staff with the legend

“Adventus Aug.” The words “Expectate veni” were used, Dr. Stukeley

thinks, to flatter the British claim of Phrygian descent. They were

taken from Æneas’s speech in Virgil:—

Quae tantae tenuere morae, quibus Hector ab oris

Expectate venis.

Perhaps the figure which we have called Britannia may have been meant

for Augusta. It is hard to understand why the whole country should

be represented by the symbol of trade. On another coin the Emperor’s

public entry into London is celebrated. He is on horseback; a spear

is in his left hand, and his right hand is raised to acknowledge the

acclamations of the people.

Maximian lost no time in raising another fleet, with which, in

September 289, a great naval battle was fought, somewhere in the

Channel, with the result of Maximian’s complete defeat, and as a

consequence the arrangement of terms by which Maximian and Diocletian

agreed to acknowledge Carausius as associated with them in the Imperial

dignity; it was further agreed that Carausius should defend Britain

against the Scots and Picts, and that he should continue to act as

Comes littoris Saxonici and should retain Boulogne—the head-quarters of

the fleet. The full title of the associated Emperor thus became—

Imp. M. Aur. Val. Carausius Aug.

The name of Aurelius he took from Maximian and that of Valerius from

Diocletian as adopted by them.

Coins celebrated the sea victory and the peace. Carausius is

represented on horseback as at an ovation; not in a chariot, which

would have signified triumph. The legend is “IO X”; that is to say,

“Shout ten times.” This was the common cry at acclamations. Thus

Martial says of Domitian—

Rursus IO magnos clamat tibi Roma triumphos.

In March 290, Carausius associates with himself his son Sylvius, then a

youth of sixteen. A coin is struck to commemorate the event. The legend

is “Providentia Aug.”—as shown in appointing a successor.

In the same year Carausius, whose head-quarters had been Clausentum

(Bitterne), near Southampton, and London alternately, now marched north

and took up his quarters at York, where he began by repairing and

restoring the work now called the Cars Dyke.

On his return to London he celebrated his success with sports and

gladiatorial contests. Coins were struck to commemorate the event. They

bear the legend “Victoria Aug.”

In the year A.D. 291, Carausius appointed a British Senate,

built many temples and public buildings, and, as usual, struck many

coins. On some of these may be found the letters S.C. He completed the

Cars Dyke and founded the city of Granta. He also named himself Consul

for Britain.

In the year 293 the two Emperors, Diocletian and Maximian, met at Milan

and created two Cæsars—Constantius Chlorus, father of Constantine the

Great, and Galerius Armentarius. And now the pretence of peace with

Carausius was thrown away. Chlorus began operations against him by

attacking the Franks and Batavians, allies of Carausius. He also urged

the Saxons and sea-board Germans to invade Britain. Carausius easily

drove off the pirates, and addressed himself to the more formidable

enemy. Chlorus laid siege to Boulogne, which was defended by Sylvius,

son of Carausius. The British Emperor himself chased his assailant’s

fleet triumphantly along the coasts of Gaul and Spain; he swept the

seas; he even entered the Mediterranean, took a town, and struck Greek

and Punic coins in celebration. He also struck coins with his wife as

Victory sacrificing at an altar, “Victoria Augg.”—the two “g’s” meaning

Carausius and his son Sylvius.

In May 295, while the Emperor was collecting troops and ships to meet

Constantius Chlorus, he was treacherously murdered by his officer

Allectus. Probably his son Sylvius was killed with him.

This is Dr. Stukeley’s account of a most remarkable man. A great deal

is perhaps imaginary; on the other hand, the coins, read by one who

knows how to interpret coins, undoubtedly tell something of the story

as it is related.

The history of Carausius as gathered by other writers from such

histories as remain differs entirely from Dr. Stukeley’s reading. It is

as follows:—

He was of obscure origin, belonged to the Batavian tribe of Menapii;

and he began by entering, or being made to enter, the service of the

British fleet. The people, afterwards called collectively Saxons, were

already actively engaged in piratical descents upon the eastern and

the southern coast of Britain. They came over in their galleys; they

landed; they pillaged, destroyed, and murdered everywhere within their

reach; then they returned, laden with their spoil, to their homes on

the banks of the Elbe.

To meet these pirates, to destroy their ships, to make them disgorge

their plunder, it was found necessary, in addition to constructing a

line of fortresses along the shore—of which Richborough, Bradwell,

Pevensey, and Porchester still remain,—to maintain a large and

well-formed fleet always in readiness. This was done, and the British

fleet, whose head-quarters were at Gesoriacum (Boulogne), was

constantly engaged in chasing, attacking, and destroying the pirate

vessels. It was a service of great danger, but also one which gave a

brave man many opportunities of distinction. These opportunities were

seized by Carausius, who obtained so great a reputation as a sailor

that he was promoted grade after grade until he became Admiral, or

Commander of the Fleet.

His courage, which had been shown in a thousand dare-devil, reckless

acts, was known to all who manned the galleys; every captain and every

cabin-boy could rehearse the exploits of Carausius. Moreover, he had

in his hands the power and authority of promotion; he was affable and

kindly in his manner; he was, in his way, considerate of the men,

whom he rewarded generously for bravery; he was eloquent, too, and

understood how to move the hearts of men; his portrait can be seen

both full face and profile on his coins, and we can judge that he

was a handsome man: in short, he possessed all the gifts wanted to

win the confidence, the affection, and the loyalty of soldiers and

sailors. With an army—for the service of the fleet was nothing less—at

his command, with the example of other usurpers before him, and with

the rich and fertile province of Britannia in his power, it is not

astonishing that this strong, able man should dream of the Purple.

But first it was necessary to become rich. Without a Treasury the army

would melt away. How could Carausius grow rich? By seizing London

and pillaging the City? But then he would make the whole island his

enemy. There was a better way, a more secret way. He redoubled his

vigilance over the coasts, but he did not attack the pirates till

they were returning laden with their plunder. He then fell upon them

and recaptured the whole. But he did not restore the spoils to their

owners: he kept them, and in this way became very quickly wealthy.

Presently the peculiar methods of the Admiral began to be talked about;

people began to murmur; complaints were sent to Rome. Then Carausius

learned that he was condemned to death. He was therefore forced to

instant action. He proclaimed himself Emperor with Maximian and

Diocletian, and he made an alliance with the Franks.

So long as he could rely on his troops, so long as he was victorious,

he was safe; and for a long time there could be no opposition. Britain

and the legions then in the island acknowledged him. He crossed over

and made his head-quarters at Clausentum (Bitterne), near Southampton.

He was certainly some time at London, where he had a mint; and he ruled

the country undisturbed for some years.

We know nothing whatever about his rule, but there is probably very

little to learn. He kept back the Picts and Scots; he kept back the

pirates—that is clear from his coins, which speak of victory. We must

remember that the reign of a usurper differed very little from that of

a recognised Emperor. He preserved the same administration conducted

by the same officers; it was only a change of name. Just as the

government of France under the Republic is practically the same as that

under the Empire, so the province of Britain under Maximian knew no

change except a change of proprietor when it passed to Carausius.

But the end came. Carausius had to fight when he was challenged, or die.

The two Emperors appointed two Cæsars. To one, Constantius, was given

the Empire of the West. He began his reign by attempting to reduce the

usurper. With a large army he advanced north and invested Gesoriacum,

where Carausius was lying; next, because the port was then, as it is

now, small and narrow and impossible of entrance, except at high tide,

he blocked it with stones and piles, so that the fleet could not enter

to support him.

[Illustration: A SEA FIGHT

From a MS. in Corpus Christi College, Cambridge.]

It is impossible to know why Carausius did not fight. Perhaps he

proposed to gather his troops in Britain and to meet Constantius on

British soil. Perhaps he reckoned on Constantius being unable to

collect ships in sufficient number to cross the Channel. Whatever his

reasons, he embarked and sailed away. The King of the Grove had run

away. Therefore his reign was over.

In such cases there is always among the officers one who perceives the

opportunity and seizes it. The name of the officer swift to discern and

swift to act in this case was Allectus. He murdered the man who had run

away, and became himself the King of the Grove.

Very little is known about Allectus or about his rule. Historians speak

of him contemptuously as one who did not possess the abilities of

Carausius; perhaps, but I cannot find any authority for the opinion.

The facts point rather in the opposite direction. At least he commanded

the allegiance and the loyalty of the soldiers, as Carausius had done;

he seems to have kept order in Britain; as nothing is said to the

contrary, he must have kept back the Caledonians and Saxons for four

years; he maintained the Frankish alliance; and when his time came,

his men went out with him to fight, and with him, fighting, fell. In

this brief story there is no touch of weakness. One would like to know

more about Allectus. Like Carausius, he was a great coiner. Forty of

his coins are described by Roach Smith. They represent a manly face of

strength and resolution crowned with a coronet of spikes. On the other

side is a female figure with the legend “Pax Aug.” Other coins bear the

legends “Pietas Aug.,” “Providentia Aug.,” “Temporum felicitas,” and

“Virtus Aug.”

[Illustration: TOMB OF VALERIUS AMANDINUS (A ROMAN GENERAL)

In Westminster Abbey.]

He was left undisturbed for nearly four years. Constantius employed

this time in collecting ships and men. It is rather surprising that

Allectus did not endeavour to attack and destroy those ships in port.

When at last the army was in readiness Constantius crossed the Channel,

his principal force, under Asclepiodotus, landing on the coast of

Sussex. It was said that he crossed with a side wind, which was thought

daring, and by the help of a thick fog eluded the fleet of Allectus,

which was off the Isle of Wight on the look-out for him.

Allectus was in London: he expected the landing would be on the Kentish

coast, and awaited the enemy, not with the view of sheltering himself

behind the river, but in order, it would seem, to choose his own place

and time for battle. Asclepiodotus, however, pushed on, and Allectus,

crossing the bridge with his legions, his Frankish allies, and his

auxiliaries, went out to meet the enemy. Where did they fight? It has

been suggested that Wimbledon was the most likely place. Perhaps. It is

quite certain that the battle was very near London, from what followed.

I would suggest Clapham Common; but as the whole of that part of London

was a barren moorland, flat, overgrown with brushwood, the battle may

have taken place anywhere south of Kensington, where the ground begins

to rise out of the marsh. We have no details of the battle, which was

as important to Britain as that of Senlac later on, for the invader

was successful. The battle went against Allectus, who was slain in the

field. His routed soldiers fled to London, and there began to sack

the City and to murder the people. Constantius himself at this moment

arrived with his fleet, landed his troops, and carried on a street

fight with the Franks until every man was massacred. Two facts come out

clearly: that the battle was fought very near to London; and that when

Allectus fell there was left neither order nor authority.

This is the third appearance of London in history. In the first,

A.D. 61, Tacitus speaks of it, as we have seen, as a City

of considerable trade; in the second, the rebellion of Boadicea, it

furnishes the third part of the alleged tale of 70,000 victims; at

this, the third, the defeated troops are ravaging and plundering the

helpless City. In all three appearances London is rich and thickly

populated.

We may also remark that we have now arrived at the close of the third

century, and that, so far, there has been very little rest or repose

for the people, but rather continued fighting from the invasion of

Aulus Plautius to the defeat of Allectus.

It is true that the conscription of the British youth carried them out

of the country to serve in other parts of the Roman Empire; it is also

true that the fighting in Britain was carried on by the legions and the

auxiliaries, and that the _Lex Julia Majestatis_ disarmed the people

subject to Roman rule. Looking, however, to the continual fighting on

the frontier and the fighting in the Channel, and the incursions of

the Scots and Picts, one cannot believe that none of the British were

permitted to fight in defence of their own land, or to man the fleet

which repelled the pirate. Those who speak of the enervating effects

of the long peace under the Roman rule—the Pax Romana—would do well to

examine for themselves into the area covered by this long peace and its

duration.

It was not in London, but at York, that Constantius fixed his

residence, in order to restrain the Picts and Scots. The importance

attached to Britain may be inferred from the fact that the Emperor

remained at York until his death in A.D. 306, when his son,

Constantine the Great, succeeded him, and continued in the island,

probably at York, for six years. Coins of Constantine and also of his

mother, Helena, have been found in London.

In the year 310, Constantine quitted the island. A period of nearly

forty years, concerning which history is silent, followed. This time

may have been one of peace and prosperity.

The government of the country had been completely changed by the scheme

of defence introduced by Diocletian and modified by Constantine. Under

that scheme the Roman world was to be governed by two Emperors—one on

the Danube, and the other in the united region of Spain, Gaul, and

Britain. The island was divided into five provinces of Britannia Prima

and Britannia Secunda; Lower Britain became Flavia Cæsariensis and

Maxima Cæsariensis; between the walls of Hadrian and Antoninus was the

Province of Valentia. Each province had its own Vicarius or Governor,

who administered his province in all civil matters.

The Civil Governor of Britain was subject to the Præfectus of Gaul,

who resided at Treviri (Treves) or Arelate (Arles). He was called

_Vicarius_, and had the title _Vir Spectabilis_ (your Excellency). His

head-quarters were at York. The “Civil Service,” whose officers lived

also in the fort, consisted of a Chief Officer (_Princeps_), a Chief

Secretary (_Cornicularis_), Auditors (_Numerarii_), a Commissioner

of Prisons (_Commentariensis_), Judges, Clerks, Serjeants, and other

officers. For the revenues there were a Collector (_Rationalis summarum

Britanniarum_), an Overseer of Treasure (_Præpositus Thesaurorum_). In

the hunting establishment there were _Procuratores Cynegiorum_. The

military affairs of the state were directly under the control of the

Præfect of Gaul. The Vicarius had no authority in things military. We

have seen also how one general after another fixed his head-quarters,

not in London, but at York, or elsewhere. London played a much less

important part than York in the military disposition of the island.

There were three principal officers: the Count of the Saxon Shore

(_Comes littoris Saxonici_), the Count of Britain, and the Duke of

Britain. The first of these had the command of the fleet—Carausius,

we have seen, was Comes littoris Saxonici—with the charge of the

nine great fortresses established along the coast from Porchester to

Brancaster. The Duke of Britain had his head-quarters at York, with the

command of the 6th Legion and charge of the wall. It is not certain

where were the head-quarters of the Count of Britain. Each of these

officers, like the Vicarius, had his own establishment. The permanent

forces in Great Britain were estimated at four, afterwards two, legions

with auxiliaries, the whole amounting to 19,200 infantry and 1700

cavalry. Surely a force capable of repelling the incursions of Irish,

Scots, and Saxons all together!

It is not possible to estimate the effect upon the country of these

military settlements; we do not know either the extent of the territory

they occupied or the number of the settlers at any colony. Britannia is

a large island, and many such settlements may have been made without

any effect upon the country. One thing, however, is certain, that

foreign settlers when they marry women belonging to their new country

very speedily adopt the manners and the language of that country, and

their children belong wholly to their mother’s race. Thus Germans and

Scandinavians settling in America and marrying American women adapt

themselves to American manners and learn the English tongue, while

their children, taught in the public schools, are in no respect to

be accounted different from the children of pure American parentage.

Even the most marked and most bigoted difference of religion does not

prevent this fusion. The Polish Jew becomes in the second generation

an Englishman in England, or an American in America. And in Ireland,

when the soldiers of Cromwell settled in County Kerry and married

women of the country, their children became Irish in manners and in

thought. The descendants of those soldiers have nothing left from their

great-grandfathers—not religion, not manners, not Puritan ideas—nothing

but their courage.

So that one can neither affirm nor deny that these settlers in any way

influenced or changed the general character of the people. Religion

would be no hindrance, because all the ancient religions admitted the

gods of all people. It is sufficient to note the fact, and to remember

that the people so called Britons were after four hundred years of

Roman rule as mixed a race as could well be found. In London the

mixture was still greater, because the trade of Roman London at its

best was carried on with the whole habitable world.

The language spoken among the better sort—the language of the Court,

the Forum, and the Port—was undoubtedly Latin. All the inscriptions

are in Latin; none are in Celtic. The language of the common people of

London was like that of the modern pidgin-English, a patois composed

of Latin without its trappings of inflexions and declensions—such a

patois as that from which sprang Mediæval French and Provençal, mixed

with words from every language under the sun: words brought to the

Port by sailors who still preserved the Phœnician tongue; by Greeks

from Massilia; by Italians from Ostia and Brundusium; by Norsemen from

Gotland and the Baltic; by Flemings, Saxons, and Germans.

The legionaries contributed their share to the patois as spoken by the

country folk. But there were few soldiers in the fort of Augusta; the

London dialect, except among the slaves working at the Port or waiting

in their barracoons to be exported for the gladiatorial contests, was

pidgin-Latin.

The Emperor Constans came over in 347. He was murdered, three years

after leaving this country, by Magnentius, a native of Britain. The

rise and fall of this pretender involved the ruin of many of his own

countrymen and the soldiers of the Roman occupation. One Paulus,

surnamed Catena, was sent to London in order to punish the adherents

of Magnentius. Then follows a very singular story. The cruelties

of Paulus excited the deepest indignation, insomuch that the Civil

Governor of the province, the “Vicarius,” Martinus by name, endeavoured

to interpose on behalf of the victims. Failing to move the judge to

mercy, he tried to save his friends by murdering him. When this attempt

also failed, he committed suicide. Paulus returned to Rome, carrying

with him a multitude of prisoners, who were tortured, imprisoned,

executed, or exiled.

The Picts and Scots took advantage of the disorder to invade the

country after the departure of Paulus. It is evident that the regular

troops had been withdrawn or were in confusion, because troops were

brought over from Gaul to drive back the invaders.

[Illustration: COFFIN LIDS FOUND IN LONDON

A H Burkitt FSA

1851]

Some ten years later the Picts and Scots renewed their attacks. They

defeated and slew the Count of the Saxon Shore, and they defeated the

Duke of Britain. The Emperor Valentinian therefore sent Theodosius

with a very large force into the island. He found the enemy ravaging

the country round London—it was probably at this period, and in

consequence of the repeated invasions from the north, that the wall

of London was built. In another place will be found an account of the

wall. It is sufficient to state here, that it was most certainly built

in a great hurry and apparently at a time of panic, because stones

in the City—from public buildings, the temples, the churches, and

cemeteries—were seized wherever possible and built up in the wall.

However, Theodosius drove back the invaders with great slaughter. He

found that there were many of the native population with the enemy. He

adopted a policy of conciliation: he relieved the people of their heavy

taxation, and rebuilt their cities and fortresses.

Here follows an incident which illustrates at once the dangers of the

time and the wisdom of Theodosius. I quote it from Wright (_The Celt,

the Roman, and the Saxon_, 1852 edition, p. 378):—

“There was in Britain at this time a man named Valentinus, a native of

Valeria, in Pannonia, notorious for his intrigues and ambition, who

had been sent as an exile to Britain in expiation of some heavy crime.

This practice of banishing political offenders to Britain appears to

have been, at the time of which we are now speaking, very prevalent;

for we learn from the same annalist, that a citizen of Rome, named

Frontinus, was at the time of the revolt just described sent into exile

in Britain for a similar cause. Men like these no sooner arrived in

the island than they took an active part in its divisions, and brought

the talent for political intrigue which had been fostered in Italy to

act upon the agitation already existing in the distant province. Such

was the case with Valentinus, who, as the brother-in-law of one of the

deepest agitators of Rome, the vicar Maximinus (described by Ammianus

as _ille exitialis vicarius_), had no doubt been well trained for the

part he was now acting. As far as we can gather from the brief notices

of the historian, this individual seems, when Theodosius arrived in

Britain, to have been actively engaged in some ambitious designs, which

the arrival of that great and upright commander rendered hopeless.

Theodosius had not been long in Londinium when he received private

information that Valentinus was engaged with the other exiles in a

formidable conspiracy, and that even many of the military had been

secretly corrupted by his promises. With the vigour which characterised

all his actions, Theodosius caused the arch-conspirator and his

principal accomplices to be seized suddenly, at the moment when their

designs were on the point of being carried into execution, and they

were delivered over to Duke Dulcitius, to receive the punishment due

to their crimes; but, aware of the extensive ramifications of the

plot in which they had been engaged, and believing that it had been

sufficiently crushed, Theodosius wisely put a stop to all further

inquiries, fearing lest by prosecuting them he might excite an alarm

which would only bring a renewal of the scenes of turbulence and

outrage which his presence had already in a great measure appeased.

The prudence as well as the valour of Theodosius were thus united in

restoring Britain to peace and tranquillity; and we are assured that

when, in 369, he quitted the island, he was accompanied to the port

where he embarked by crowds of grateful provincials.”

In the year 383 Britain furnished another usurper or claimant of the

people, in the person of Magnus Maximus. He was a native of Spain, who

had served in Britain with great distinction, and was a favourite with

the soldiers. Now the troops then stationed in Britain are stated by

the historian to have been the most arrogant and turbulent of all the

Imperial troops.

The career of Maximus, and his ultimate defeat and death at Aquileia,

belong to the history of the Roman Empire.

One of the officers of Theodosius, named Chrysanthus, who afterwards

became a bishop at Constantinople, pacified Britain—one hopes by

methods less brutal than those of Paulus Catena.

The people, however, had little to congratulate themselves upon.

Their country with its five provinces was regarded as a department of

the Court of Treves. When there was any trouble in the Empire of the

West, the legions of Great Britain were withdrawn without the least

regard for the defence of the country against the Picts and Scots;

and the division into provinces was a source of weakness. Moreover,

the general decay of the Empire was accompanied by the usual signs

of anarchy, lawlessness, and oppression. The troops were unruly and

mutinous; time after time, as we have seen, they set up one usurper and

murdered another; they were robbed by their officers; their pay was

irregular. The complexity of the new system added to the opportunities

of the taxing authorities and the tax-collector. The visit of the

Imperial tax-gatherers was worse than the sack of a town by the enemy.

Torture was freely used to force the people to confess their wealth;

son informed against father, and father against son; they were taxed

according to confessions extorted under torture.

The end of the Roman occupation, however, was rapidly approaching.

Theodosius died in 395, and left his Western dominions to Honorius.

There were still two legions in Britain: the 6th, at Eboracum (York);

and the 2nd, at Rutupiæ (Richborough). There were also numerous bodies

of auxiliaries. Early in the fifth century these soldiers revolted and

set up an Emperor of their own, one Marcus. They murdered him in 407,

and set up another named Gratian, whom they also murdered after a few

months, when they chose an obscure soldier on account of his name,

Constantine.

He at once collected his army and crossed over to Gaul. His subsequent

career, like that of Maximus, belongs to the history of Rome.

It would appear that the withdrawal of the legions by Constantine was

the actual end of the Roman occupation. The cities of Britain took up

arms to repel invasion from the north and the descent of the pirates

in the west, and in 410 received letters from Honorius telling them to

defend themselves.

The story told by Gildas is to the effect that Maximus took away all

the men capable of bearing arms; that the cities of Britain suffered

for many years under the oppression of the Picts and Scots; that

they implored the Romans for help; and that Roman legions came over,

defeated the Picts and Scots, and taught the Britons how to build a

wall. This is all pure legend.

The commonly received history of the coming of the Angles, Jutes,

and Saxons is chiefly legendary. It is impossible to arrive at the

truth, save by conjecture from a very few facts ascertained. Thus

it is supposed that the Saxons began, just as the Danes did four

hundred years afterwards, by practical incursions leading to permanent

settlements; that the words _littus Saxonicum_ signified, not the shore

exposed to Saxon pirates, but the shore already settled by Saxons; that

in some parts the transition from Roman to Saxon was gradual; that the

two races mixed together—at Canterbury, Colchester, Rochester, and

other places we find Roman and Saxon interments in the same cemetery;

that the Saxons had gained a footing in the island long before the

grand invasions of which the Saxon Chronicle preserves the tradition.

This long history of warfare, of civil commotion, of mutiny and

usurpation, of conscription and taxation, is not a pleasant picture

of Britain under the famous Pax Romana. How did the City of London

fare? It was the residence of the Proprætor before the new scheme of

Diocletian. This is proved by the discovery of certain inscribed tiles.

These tiles record the legions or the officers stationed in various

places. At Chester they bear the name of the 20th Legion; at York,

those of the 6th and the 9th. At Lymne and Dover the usual inscription

is Cl.Br., supposed to mean Classiarii Britannici. Some of the tiles

above referred to are inscribed PRB. Lon., or PPBR. Lon., or P.PR.BR.

Roach Smith reads these letters Prima Cohors Britanniæ Londinii, and

assumes that the first British Cohort was once stationed in London.

Wright, however, reads Proprætor Britanniæ Londinii, thus showing

that London was the seat of government. As there is no hint elsewhere

that the first British Cohort served in Britain, but plenty of

evidence as to its being elsewhere, as in Egypt and Germany, Wright’s

interpretation is probably the correct one.

Except for the attempted sack of the City after the defeat of Allectus

and for the sanguinary revenge by Paulus Catena, London seems to have

been but little disturbed by the invasions and the mutinies and the

usurpations. Her trade went on. In bad times, as when Magnentius or

Maximus drew off the soldiers, and the invaders fell upon the country

on the north, the east, and the west, destroying the towns and laying

waste the country, London suffered. In the intervals of peace her

wharves were crowded with merchandise and her port with ships.

The introduction of Christianity into London, as into Britain

generally, began, there can be little doubt, in the second century. The

new religion, however, made very slow progress. The first missionaries,

believed to have been St. Paul or St. Joseph of Arimathæa, with

Lazarus and his two sisters, were probably converts from Gaul who came

to Britain in pursuit of their ordinary business. In the year 208

Tertullian mentions the existence of Christians in Britain. Early in

the fourth century there were British Bishops at the Council of Arles.

In 324 Christianity was recognised as the religion of the State.

In the year 325 the British Church assented to the conclusions of the

Council of Nicæa. In 386 there was an Established Christian Church in

Britain, in habitual intercourse with Rome. As to the reality of the

Christianity of the people and how far it was mixed up with remains of

Mithraism and the ancient faiths of Rome and Gallia, we have no means

of judging.

[Illustration: BRONZE ROMAN LAMP FOUND IN CANNON STREET]

What was the government of London itself at this time? We can find

an answer in the constitution of other Roman towns. London never

became a _municipium_—a town considered by the Imperial authorities

as of the first importance. There were only two towns of this rank

in Britain, viz. Eboracum (York) and Verulam (St. Alban’s). It was,

with eight other towns, a _colonia_. Wright[16] is of opinion that

there was very little difference in later times between the _colonia_

and the _municipium_. These towns enjoyed the _civitas_ or rights of

Roman citizens; they consisted of the town and certain lands round

it; and they had their own government exempt from the control of

the Imperial officers. In that case the forum would not necessarily

be placed in the fort or citadel, which was the residence of the

Vicarius when he was in London with his Court and establishment. At

the same time this citadel occupied an extensive area, and the City

being without walls till the year 360 or thereabouts, all the public

buildings were within that area. The governing body of the City was

called the _curia_, and its members were _curiales_, _decuriones_,

or senators; the rank was hereditary, but, like every hereditary

house, it received accessions from below. The two magistrates, the

_duumviri_, were chosen yearly by the _curia_ from their own body. A

town council, or administrative body, was also elected for a period

of fifteen years by the _curiales_ from their own body; the members

were called _principales_. The _curia_ appointed, also, all the less

important officers; in fact it controlled the whole municipality. The

people were only represented by one officer, the _defensor civitatis_,

whose duty it was to protect his class against tyrannical or unjust

usurpations of power by the _curiales_. No one could be called upon

to serve as a soldier except in defence of his own town. The defence

of the Empire was supposed to be taken over by the Emperor himself.

Let every man, he said, rest in peace and carry on his trade in

security. But when the Emperor’s hands grew weak, what had become of

the martial spirit? The existence of this theory explains also how the

later history of the Roman Empire is filled with risings and mutinies

and usurpations, not of cities and tribes, but of soldiers. At the

same time, since we read of the British youth going off to fight in

Germany and elsewhere, the country lads had not lost their spirit.[17]

The people of London itself, however, may have become, like those of

Rome, unused to military exercises. Probably there was no fear of any

rising in London, and there was not a large garrison in the citadel.

The citizens followed their own trade, unarmed, like the rest of the

world; even their young men were not necessarily trained to sports and

military exercises. Their occupations were very much the same as those

of later times: there were merchants, foreign and native, ship-builders

and ship-owners, sailors, stevedores and porters, warehousemen, clerks,

shopmen, lawyers, priests, doctors, scribes, professors and teachers,

and craftsmen of all kinds. These last had their collegia or guilds,

each with a curialis for a patron. The institution is singularly

like the later trade guilds, each with a patron saint. One would

like to think that a craft company, such as the blacksmiths’, has a

lineal descent from the Collegium Fabrorum of Augusta. But as will

be proved later on, that is impossible. London was a city of trade,

devoted wholly to trade. The more wealthy sort emulated the luxury

and effeminacy of the Roman senators—but only so long as the Empire

remained strong. When one had to fight or be robbed, to fight or to

be carried off in slavery, to fight or to die, there was an end, I

believe, of the effeminacy of the London citizens.

Let us consider this question of the alleged British effeminacy. We

have to collect the facts, as far as we can get at them, which is a

very little way, and the opinion of historians belonging to the time.

Gildas, called Sapiens, the Sage—in his Book of Exclamations,—speaks

thus contemptuously of his own people:—

1. The Romans, he says, on going away, told the people that “inuring

themselves to warlike weapons, and bravely fighting, they should

valiantly protect their country, their property, wives and children,

and what is dearer than these, their liberty and lives; that they

should not suffer their hands to be tied behind their backs by a nation

which, unless they were enervated by idleness and sloth, was not more

powerful than themselves, but that they should arm those hands with

buckler, sword, and spear, ready for the field of battle.

2. He says: “The Britons are impotent in repelling foreign foes, but

bold and invincible in raising civil war, and bearing the burdens of

their offences; they are impotent, I say, in following the standard of

peace and truth, but bold in wickedness and falsehood.”

3. He says: “To this day”—many years after the coming of the

Saxons—“the cities of our country are not inhabited as before, but

being forsaken and overthrown, lie desolate, our foreign wars having

ceased, but our civil troubles still remaining.”

Bede, who writes much later, thus speaks, perhaps having read the

evidence of Gildas: “With plenty, luxury increased, and this was

immediately attended with all sorts of crimes: in particular, cruelty,

hatred of truth, and love of falsehood: insomuch that if any one

among them happened to be milder than the rest, and inclined to

truth, all the rest abhorred and persecuted him, as if he had been

the enemy of his country. Nor were the laity only guilty of these

things, but even our Lord’s own flock and His pastors also addicted

themselves to drunkenness, animosity, litigiousness, contention,

envy, and other such-like crimes, and casting off the light yoke of

Christ. In the meantime, on a sudden, a severe plague fell upon that

corrupt generation, which soon destroyed such numbers of them that

the living were scarcely sufficient to bury the dead; yet those who

survived could not be drawn from the spiritual death which their sins

had incurred either by the death of their friends or the fear of

their own.” This declaration of wickedness is written, one observes,

ecclesiastically—that is, in general terms.

[Illustration: METHOD OF SWATHING THE DEAD

Claud MS., II. iv.]

The opinion of an ecclesiastic who, like Gildas, connects morals and

bravery, and finds in a king’s alleged incontinence the cause of

internal disasters, may be taken for what it is worth. One undeniable

fact remains, that for two hundred years this effeminate people

fought without cessation or intermission for their lives and their

liberties. Two hundred years, if you think of it, is a long time for an

effeminate folk to fight. Deprived of their Roman garrison, they armed

themselves; deprived of a government which had kept order for four

hundred years, they elected their own governors; unfortunately their

cities were separate, each with its own mayor (_comes civitatis_).

They fought against the wild Highlander from the north; against the

wild mountain man from the west; against the wild Irish from over the

western sea; against the wild Saxon and Dane from the east. They were

attacked on all sides; they were driven back slowly: they did nothing

but fight during the whole of that most wretched period while the

Roman Empire fell to pieces. When all was over, some of the survivors

were found in the Welsh mountains; some in the Cumbrian Hills; some

in the Fens; some beyond the great moor of Devon; some in the thick

forests of Nottingham, of Middlesex, of Surrey, and of Sussex. Most

sad and sorrowful spectacle of all that sad and sorrowful time is one

picture—it stands out clear and distinct. I see a summer day upon the

southern shore and in the west of England; I think that the place is

Falmouth. There are assembling on the sea-shore a multitude of men,

women, and children. Some of them are slaves; they are tied together.

It is a host of many thousands. Close to the shore are anchored or

tied up a vast number of ships rudely and hastily constructed, the

frame and seats of wood, the sides made out of skins of creatures sewn

together and daubed with grease to keep out the water. The ships are

laden with provisions; some of them are so small as to be little better

than coracles. And while the people wait, lo! there rises the sound of

far-off voices which chant the Lamentation of the Psalmist. These are

monks who are flying from the monastery, taking with them only their

relics and their treasures. See! they march along bearing the Cross and

their sacred vessels, singing as they go. So they get on board; and

then the people after them climb into their vessels. They set their

sails; they float down the estuary and out into the haze beyond and are

lost. In this way did England give to France her province of Bretagne.

FOOTNOTES:

[15] _The Celt, the Roman, and the Saxon_, by Thomas Wright, F.S.A.,

1852 edit. p. 112.

[16] Thomas Wright, _The Celt, the Roman, and the Saxon_, p. 425 _et

seq._

[17] In the fourth century there were British regiments in Gaul, Spain,

Illyria, Egypt, and Armenia.

CHAPTER III

THE ASPECT OF THE CITY

Such, then, was the condition and the government of Roman

London- Augusta. It is a City of great trade when first we find it

mentioned. The trade had been diverted by a new road, now called Oxford

Street, from the old line which previously passed across the more

ancient settlement in the Isle of Thorney. London had been at first a

British fort on a hillock overhanging the river; then a long quay by

the river-side; then a collection of villa residences built in gardens

behind the quay. The whole was protected by a Roman fort. By the fourth

century, practically the trade of the entire country passed through

the port of London. The wealth of the merchants would have become very

great but for the fluctuations of trade, caused first by the invasions

of Picts, Scots, Welsh, Irish, and “Saxons,” which interfered with

the exports and imports; and next by the civil wars, usurpations, and

tumults, which marked the later years of the Roman occupation. London

under the Romans never became so rich as Ephesus, for instance, or

Alexandria.

[Illustration: DOW GATE]

Let us next inquire what manner of city was this of London under the

Romans. At the time of the Roman Conquest it was an unwalled village,

protected partly by its situation, which was such as to leave it

exposed to attack from one quarter only, before the construction of

roads across the marsh; partly by its stockade fort between the Fleet

and the Walbrook, and partly by the valour of its inhabitants—there

are rumours of battles between the men of London and the men of

Verulam. When Paulinus went out to meet Boadicea he left behind him

a city without protection, either of walls or soldiers. Evidently

there was then no Roman fort or citadel. That was built later. It was

placed on that high ground already described, east of Walbrook; it had

the advantage of a stream and a low cliff in the west, and a broad

river and a low cliff on the south. This citadel was of extraordinary

strength and solidity. Its foundations have been laid bare (1) at its

south-west angle, under Cannon Street Railway Terminus; (2) at its east

side, at Mincing Lane, twenty years ago; and (3) part of the north side

was uncovered in 1892, on the south side of Cornhill. The wall of this

fortress was, no doubt, much like the walls of Porchester and Pevensey

which are still standing: it was quadrangular, and set with circular

bastions. Its length was about 750 yards, its breadth about 500, so

that the area enclosed must have been 375,000 square yards. There is no

mention in history of this fortress; it was probably taken for granted

by the historians that the _castra stativa_—the standing camp, the

citadel—belonged to London in common with every other important town

under Roman rule.

On the north side the wall of the fortress was protected by a ditch

which ran from the eastern corner to the Walbrook. Traces of this ditch

remained for a long time, and gave rise to the belief that there had

been a stream running into the Walbrook; hence the name Langbourne. The

main street of the fortress ran along the line of Cannon Street. London

Stone, removed from its original position on the south side of the

road, probably marked the site of the western gate.

As the town grew, houses, villas, streets arose all round the fortress

and under its protection. Within the walls many remains have been

found, but none of cemeteries. There were no interments within the

walls, a fact which proves by itself the theory of the Roman fortress,

if any further proof were needed. Outside the fort there is evidence

of cemeteries that have been built over; pavements lie over forgotten

graves. A bath has been found by the river-side: this was probably

a public bath. When one reads of the general making London his

head-quarters, it was in this walled place that his troops lay. In

the enclosure were the offices of state, the mint, the treasury, the

courts of justice, the arsenal, the record office, and the official

residences. Here was the forum, though no remains have been discovered

of this or any other public buildings. Here the civil administration

was carried on; hither were brought the taxes, and here were written

and received the dispatches and the reports.

This citadel was official London. If we wish to know what the City was

like, we can understand by visiting Silchester, which was also a walled

town. However, at Silchester as yet no citadel has been discovered.

There are the foundations of a great hall larger than Westminster Hall.

It had rooms and offices around it; it had a place of commerce where

were the shops, the verandahs or cloisters in which the lawyers, the

orators, the rhetoricians, and the poets walked and talked. Near at

hand the guards of the Vicarius had their barracks.

Beneath and around the citadel of London the houses clustered in

square _insulæ_; beyond, on the north side, stood the villas in their

pretty gardens. The site of the great hall of the London citadel was

perhaps discovered in 1666 after the Great Fire, when the workmen laid

bare, east of what is now Cannon Street Railway Station, a splendid

tessellated pavement.

Within the citadel was the forum, surrounded by lofty columns. One

temple at least—probably more than one—lifted its columns into the air.

One was to Fortune; another to Jupiter. In other parts of the town were

temples to Cybele, to Apollo, to Baal or the sun god, to Mercury, to

the Deæ Matres; to Bacchus, who stood for Osiris as well; and to Venus.

[Illustration: TESSELLATED PAVEMENT

From Lysons’ _Account of the Roman Villa discovered at Woodchester_.]

The character of the Roman remains dug up from time to time within

these walls shows that it was formerly a place of great resort. Under

the protection of this citadel, and later under the protection of the

Pax Romana, villas were built up outside the walls for the residence of

the better sort. All round the walls also sepulchral remains have been

discovered; they were afterwards included in the larger wall of the

city which was built towards the close of the fourth century.

London was then, and for many years afterwards, divided into London

east and west of the Walbrook. On the western side was the quarter of

the poorer sort; they had cottages on the foreshore—as yet there was

no wall. The better class lived outside the fort, along the eastern

side of Walbrook, and in Cornhill, Threadneedle Street, and Bishopsgate

Street. Down below were the three Roman ports, afterwards called

Billingsgate, Dowgate, and Queenhithe. Walking down Thames Street one

finds here and there an old dock which looks as if it had been there

from time immemorial.

I have sometimes been tempted, when in Thames Street—that

treasure-house of memories, survivals, and suggestions—to think that

these narrow lanes sloping to the river are of Roman origin, left when

all the rest was wrecked and lost, and that they are still of the same

breadth as they were in the fourth century. This, however, is not the

case. I shall show presently the origin and meaning of these narrow

streets running up the hill from the river into Thames Street: they

are all, in fact, connections of the quays on the foreshore with the

merchants’ warehouses in Thames Street. Along the better streets,

on the north of Thames Street, the traders put up their stalls and

kept their shops; the stalls were at first mere temporary sheds

resting against the walls of villas. These villas belonged, not to

the millionaire Lucullus, for whose palace the whole world could be

ransacked, but to the well-to-do merchant, whose taste was not much

cultivated. He called in the best artist of the city. “Build me a

villa,” he said, “as good as my neighbour’s. Let there be a fine mosaic

pavement; let there be fountains; let there be paintings on the walls,

lovely paintings—nymphs and fauns, nymphs bathing, plenty of nymphs,

dancing girls, plenty of dancing girls; paint me Hercules drunk, Loves

flying and playing tricks, warriors with shields, sea pieces, ships;

paint me my own ships sailing. And take care of the hypocaust and the

warming pipes, and see that the kitchen is suitably furnished.”

The earliest, the natural port of London was the mouth of the Walbrook,

called afterwards Dowgate.

In the western wall of the Roman citadel was the gate which served at

once for the road or street across the City to Newgate, and for that

part of the trade which belonged to the citadel. The Walbrook at this

time was a considerable stream. It was partly a tidal stream, but it

was fed from above by many tributaries on the moorland. Here the ships

first began to load and to unload. For their convenience quays were

constructed on piles driven into the mud and shingle of the foreshore.

As the trade increased, the piles were pushed out farther and the quays

were broadened.

When trade increased and the difficulties of getting through the

bridge were felt, another port was necessary. It was perfectly easy to

construct one by cutting it out of the soft foreshore and then banking

it up with strong piles of timber. Piles and beams were also driven in

on either side for the support of quays, which could thus be extended

indefinitely. The place chosen was what is now called Billingsgate.

It was close to the bridge and the bridge gate; so that while goods

could be landed here for the trade of the City—whence they could be

easily distributed throughout the north and midland of the

island,—communication was established with the south by means of the

bridge (see Appendices I. and II.).

Later on, but one knows not when, the port of Queen Hythe, formerly

Edred’s Hythe, was similarly constructed. I am inclined to believe also

that Puddle Dock represents another ancient port; but whether Roman or

Saxon, it is now impossible to decide.

The poorer part of the City was that part lying between Puddle Dock

and Dowgate: we do not find tessellated pavements here, nor remains

of great buildings. The houses which stood upon the pavements were

modest compared with the villas of the Roman millionaire; but they were

splendid compared with other houses of the City.

For the convenience of the better sort there was the bath, in which

everybody spent a part of the day; for the merchants there were the

quays; there was the theatre; and there was the amphitheatre. It is

true that no trace has ever been found of theatre or of amphitheatre;

but it is also true that until recently no trace was found of the Roman

citadel, and, as I have said, no trace has ever been found of forum or

of temples. We will return to this subject later.

To one standing at the south end of the narrow wooden bridge across the

Thames, Augusta, even before the building of the wall, appears a busy

and important place. Exactly opposite the bridge, on a low eminence,

was a wall, strong though low, and provided with rounded bastions.

Above the wall were seen the columns of the forum and of two temples,

the roofs of the great hall of justice and of the official offices and

residences.

Along the quays were moored the ships. On the quay stood sheds for

warehouses in a line. Behind these warehouses were barracoons for

the reception of the slaves waiting to be transported to some other

part of the Empire, there to await what Fortune had in store for

them—perhaps death in a gladiatorial fight, perhaps service on a farm,

perhaps the greatest gifts of Fortune, viz. a place in a Roman cohort,

opportunities for showing valour and ability, an officer’s commission,

the command of a company, then of a legion, then of a victorious

army; finally, perhaps the Purple itself and absolute rule over all

the civilised world. The streets behind the warehouses were narrow

and steep, the houses in them were mean. Everywhere within the area

afterwards enclosed by the wall were villas, some small, some large and

stately. It was a noisy city, always a noisy city—nothing can be done

with ships without making a noise. The sailors and the stevedores and

the porters sang in chorus as they worked; the carts rolled slowly and

noisily along the few streets broad enough to let them pass; mules in

single file carried bales in and out of the city; slaves marched in

bound and fettered; in the smaller houses or in workshops every kind of

trade was carried on noisily. Smoke, but not coal smoke, hung over all

like a canopy.

In such a restoration of a Roman provincial town one seems to restore

so much, yet to leave so much more. Religion, education, literature,

the standard of necessities and of luxury, the daily food, the ideas

of the better classes, the extent, methods, and nature of their trade,

the language, the foreign element—none of these things can be really

restored.

Under the protection of the citadel the merchants conducted their

business; under its protection the ships lay moored in the river; the

bales lay on the quays; and the houses of the people, planted at first

along the banks of the Walbrook, stretched out northwards towards the

moor, and westwards as far as the river Fleet.

It is strange that nothing should be said anywhere about so strong

and important a place as the citadel. When was it built, and by whom?

When was it destroyed, and by whom? Were the walls standing when the

Saxons began their occupation? It appears not, because, had there been

anything left, any remains or buildings standing, any tradition of a

fortress even, it would have been carried on. The citadel disappeared

and was forgotten until its foundations were found in our time. How

did this happen? Its disappearance can be explained, according to my

theory, by the history of the wall (see p. 112): all the stones above

ground, whether of citadel, temple, church, or cemetery, were seized

upon to build the wall.

Across the river stood the suburb we now call Southwark, a double line

of villas beside a causeway. It has been suggested that Southwark was

older than London, and that it was once walled in. The only reasons

for this theory are: that Ptolemy places London in Kent—in which he

was clearly wrong; that the name of Walworth might indicate a city

wall; that remains of villas have been found in Southwark; and that a

Roman cemetery has been found in the Old Kent Road. But the remains

of houses have only been found beside the high road leading from the

bridge. They were built on piles driven into the marsh. Up till quite

recent times the whole south of London remained a marsh with buildings

here and there; they were erected on a bank or river wall, on the Isle

of Bermond, on the Isle of Peter, beside the high road. And there

has never been found any trace of a wall round Southwark, which was

in Roman times, and has always been, the inferior suburb—outside the

place of business and the centre of society. Every town on a river

has an inferior suburb on the other side—London, Paris, Liverpool,

Tours, Florence: all busy towns have inferior transpontine suburbs.

Southwark was always a marsh. When the river-bank was constructed the

marsh became a spongy field covered with ponds and ditches; when the

causeway and bridge were built, people came over and put up villas for

residence. In the Middle Ages there were many great houses here, and

the place was by some esteemed for its quiet compared with the noise of

London, but Southwark was never London.

Besides the bridge, there was a ferry—perhaps two ferries. The name of

St. Mary Overies preserves the tradition. There are two very ancient

docks, one beside the site of the House of St. Mary Overies, and one

opposite, near Walbrook. In these two docks I am pleased to imagine

that we see the ancient docks of London ferry to which belongs the

legend of the foundation of the House.

Let us return to the question of amphitheatre and theatre. There must

have been both. It is quite certain that wherever a Roman town grew up

an amphitheatre grew up with it. The amphitheatre was as necessary to a

Roman town as the daily paper is to an American town.

It has been suggested that there was no amphitheatre, because the

city was Christian. There may have been Christians in the city from

the second century; everything points to the fact that there were.

It is impossible, however, to find the slightest trace of Christian

influence on the history of the city down to the fourth century. W.

J. Loftie thinks that the dedication of the churches in the lower and

poorer parts of the town—viz. to SS. Peter, Michael, James, and All

Saints—shows that there were Christian churches on those sites at a

very early period. This may be true, but it is pure conjecture. It is

absurd to suppose that a city, certainly of much greater importance

than Nîmes or Arles—where were both theatre and amphitheatre,—and of

far greater importance than Richborough—where there was one,—should

have no trace of either. Since Bordeaux, Marseilles, Alexandria, and

other cities of the Roman Empire were not Christian in the second and

third centuries, why should London be? Or if there were Christians

here in quite early times, theirs was not the dominant religion,

as is clearly shown by the Roman remains. There must have been an

amphitheatre—where was it? To begin with, it was outside the City.

Gladiators and slaves reserved for mock battles which were to them as

real as death could make them, wild beasts, the company of ribalds who

gathered about and around the amphitheatre, would not be permitted

within the City. Where, then, was the amphitheatre of London?

At first one turns to the north, with its gardens and villas and sparse

population. The existence of the villas will not allow us to place the

amphitheatre anywhere in the north near the Walbrook.

When the modern traveller in London stands in the churchyard of St.

Giles’s, Cripplegate, he looks upon a bastion of the Roman wall where

the wall itself took a sudden bend to the south. It ran south till

it came to a point in a line with the south side of St. Botolph’s

Churchyard (the “Postmen’s Park”), where it again turned west as far as

Newgate.

It thus formed nearly a right angle—Why? There is nothing in the lie

of the ground to account for this deviation. No such angle is found in

the eastern part of the wall. There must have been some good reason

for this regular feature in the wall. Was the ground marshy? Not more

so than the moorland through which the rest of the wall was driven.

Can any reason be assigned or conjectured? I venture to suggest, as a

thing which seems to account for the change in the direction of the

wall, that this angle contained the amphitheatre, the theatre, and all

the buildings and places, such as the barracks, the prisons, the dens

and cages, and the storehouse, required for the gladiatorial shows. I

think that those who built the wall, as I shall presently show, were

Christians; that they were also, as we know from Gildas, superstitious;

that they regarded the amphitheatre, and all that belonged to it,

as accursed; and that they would not allow the ill-omened place of

blood and slaughter and execution to be admitted within the walls. It

may be that a tradition of infamy clung to the place after the Roman

occupation: this tradition justifies and explains the allocation to

the Jews of the site as their cemetery. The disappearance of the

amphitheatre can be fully explained by the seizure of the stones in

order to build the wall.

Mr. C. Roach Smith, however, has proposed another site for the theatre,

for which he tenders reasons which appear to me not, certainly, to

prove his theory, but to make it very possible and even probable. Many

Roman theatres in France and elsewhere are built into a hill, as the

rising ground afforded a foundation for the seats. That of Treves,

for instance, will occur to every one who has visited that place. Mr.

Roach Smith observed a precipitous descent from Green Arbour Court

into Seacoal Lane—a descent difficult to account for, save by the

theory that it was constructed artificially. This indeed must have

been the case, because there was nothing in the shape of a cliff along

the banks of the Fleet River. Then why was the bank cut away? Observe

that the site of the Fleet Prison was not on a slope at all, but on

a large level space. We have therefore to account for a large level

space backed by an artificial cliff. Is it not extremely probable that

this points out the site of the Roman theatre, the seats of which were

placed upon the artificial slope which still remains in Green Arbour

Court?

Mr. Roach Smith read a paper (Jan. 1886) placing this discovery—it is

nothing less—on record before the London and Middlesex Archæological

Association. The remarkable thing is that no one seems to have taken

the least notice of it.

Assuming that he has proved his case, I do not believe that he is right

as to the houses being built upon the foundations of the theatre,

for the simple reason that, as I read the history of the wall in the

stones, every available stone in London and around it was wanted for

the building of the wall. It was built in haste: it was built with

stones from the cemeteries, from the temples, from the churches, from

the old fortress, and from the theatre and the amphitheatre outside

the wall. As regards the latter, my own view remains unaltered; I

still think that the angle in the wall was caused by the desire to

keep outside the amphitheatre with all its memories of rascality and

brutality.

Treves (Colonia Augusta Treverorum) and Roman London have many points

in common, as may be apprehended most readily from the accompanying

comparison in which Roman Treves and Roman London are placed side by

side. We may compare the first citadel of London on the right bank of

the Walbrook with Treves; or we may compare the later London of the

latter part of the fourth century, the wall of which was built about

A.D. 360-390, with Treves.

1. The citadel of London had its western side protected by a valley and

a stream whose mouth formed a natural port. The valley was about 140

feet across; the stream was tidal up to the rising ground, with banks

of mud as far, at least, as the north wall of the citadel. On the south

was a broad river spanned by a bridge. There were three gates: that

of the north, that of the west, and that of the bridge on the south.

Within the citadel were the official buildings, barracks, residences,

and offices. Two main streets crossed at right angles. About half a

mile to the north-west (according to my theory) was the amphitheatre.

On the north and east was an open moor. On the south a marsh, with

rising ground beyond. By the river-side, near the bridge, were the

baths.

2. Colonia Augusta Treverorum.—These details are almost exactly

reproduced in Treves. We have a broad river in front. On one side a

stream which perhaps branched off into two. The gate which remains

(the Porta Nigra) shows the direction of the wall on the north from

the river. A long boulevard, called at present the Ost Allee, marks

the line of the eastern wall, which, like that of London, occupied

the site of the Roman wall. A bend at right angles at the end of

this boulevard includes the Palace and other buildings. It therefore

represents the site of the ancient wall or that of a mediæval wall. It

is quite possible that the mediæval wall of the city included a smaller

area than the Roman wall, and that the two round towers, here standing

in position with part of the wall, represent the mediæval wall. It is

also possible, and even probable, that they stand on the site of the

Roman wall, which just below the second, or at the second, bent round

again to the south as far as the stream called the Altbach, and so to

the west as far as the river. That this, and not the continuation of

the line of towers, was the course of the Roman wall, is shown by the

fact that the baths, the remains of which stand beside the bridge,

must have been within, and not outside, the wall. The river wall, just

like that of London, ran along the bank to the bridge, and was stopped

by the outfall of a small stream. The ground behind the river wall

gradually rose. On the other side was a low-lying marsh, beyond which

were lofty hills—not gradually rising hills as on the Surrey side of

the Thames. The city was crossed by two main arteries, which may still

be traced. An extensive system of baths was placed near the bridge on

the east side. Within the wall were the Palace of the Governor or of

the Emperor, and a great building now called the Basilica; and between

them, the remains now entirely cleared away for the exercise ground,

once the garden of the barracks. There were three gates, perhaps four.

One of them, a most noble monument, still survives. A Roman cemetery

has been found beyond the Altbach in the south, and another in the

north, outside the Porta Nigra.

3. The comparison of Roman Treves with the later Roman London is

most curious, and brings out very unexpectedly the fact that in many

respects the latter was an enlargement of the citadel. We know that

the wall was constructed hastily, and that all the stonework in the

City was used in making it. Like the citadel, however, and like Treves,

it had a stream on one side, baths and a bridge and a port within the

walls; while the official buildings, as at Treves, were all collected

together in one spot. We also find the curious angle, which at Treves

may be accounted for by an enlargement of the wall, and at London by

the custom of keeping the amphitheatre outside the City as a place

foul with associations of battle, murder, massacre, and the ribald

company of gladiators, retiarii, prisoners waiting the time of combat

and of death, wild beasts and their keepers, and the rabble rout which

belonged to this savage and reckless company.

* * * * *

That part of London lying to the west of Walbrook was crowded with the

houses of the lower classes, and with the warehouses and stores of the

merchants. These extended, as they do to this day, all the way from

the Tower to Blackfriars. On the rising ground above were the villas

of the better class, some of them luxurious, ample, decorated with the

highest art, and provided with large gardens. These villas extended

northwards along the banks of the little Walbrook. They are also found

on the south side in Southwark, and on the west side on Holborn Hill.

The principal street of Augusta was that afterwards called Watling

Street, which, diverted from the old Watling Street where Marble Arch

now stands, carried all the trade of the country through London by way

of Newgate, over the present site of St. Paul’s, and so through the

citadel, to the market-place and to the port. Another street led out

by way of Bishopsgate to the north; and a third, the Vicinal Way, to

the eastern counties. The bridge led to a road running south to Dover.

There was also a long street, with probably many side streets out of

it, as there are at this day, along the Thames.

The things which remain of Roman London and may be seen in our museums

are meagre, but they yield a good deal of information as to the

condition and the civilisation of the City. The foundation of large

villas, the rich mosaics and pavements, the remains of statues, the

capitals of pillars, the coins, and the foundations of massive walls,

clearly indicate the existence of much wealth and considerable comfort.

The smaller things in the glass cases, the keys, the hairpins, the

glass bottles, the statuettes, the bells, the tools, the steelyards,

the mirrors, all point to a civilisation closely imitating that of the

capital itself.

[Illustration: ROMAN SANDALS TAKEN FROM THE BED OF THE THAMES

Roach Smith’s _Catalogue of London Antiquities_.]

It is not to a native of London that we must turn for the life of the

better class in a provincial city of the fourth century, but to a

native of Gaul. Ausonius is a writer whose works reveal the daily life

of a great city in Gaul. He was born of good family on both sides. His

father was a physician; his grandfather a so-called “Mathematician,”

in reality one who still practised the forbidden mystery of astrology.

Ausonius himself was educated at Toulouse, and he opened a school

of rhetoric at Bordeaux. The rhetoricians not only taught, but also

practised, the art of oratory. Whether all rhetoricians were also poets

is uncertain: the mere making of verse is no more difficult to acquire

than the composition of oratory. There were two classes of teachers:

the grammarian, of whom there were subdivisions—the Latin grammarian,

skilled in Latin antiquities, and the Greek grammarian, who had studied

Greek antiquities; and, above the grammarian, the rhetorician. In every

important town over the whole Empire were found the rhetorician and the

grammarian; they exchanged letters, verses, compliments, and presents.

In a time of universal decay, when no one had anything new to say, when

there was nothing to stimulate or inspire nobler things, the language

of compliment, the language of exaggeration, and the language of

conceit filled all compositions. At such a time the orator is held in

greater respect even than the soldier. In the latter the townsman saw

the preserver of order, the guardian of the frontier, the slayer of the

barbarians who were always pressing into the Empire. He himself carried

no arms: he represented learning, law, literature, and medicine.

Ausonius himself, in being elevated to the rank of consul, betrays this

feeling. He compares himself with the consuls of old: he is superior,

it is evident, to them all, save in one respect, the warlike qualities.

These virtues existed no longer: the citizen was a man of peace; the

soldier was a policeman. If this was true of Bordeaux, then far from

the seat of any war, it was much more true in London, which every day

saw the arrival and the dispatch of slaves captured in some new border

fray, while the people themselves never heard the clash of weapons or

faced the invader with a sword.

Another profession held greatly in honour was that of the lawyer. The

young lawyer had a five years’ course of study. There were schools of

law in various parts of the Empire which attracted students from all

quarters, just as in later times the universities attracted young men

from every country. From these lawyers were chosen the magistrates.

Medicine was also held greatly in honour; it was carefully taught,

especially in southern Gaul.

[Illustration: THE LACONICUM, OR SWEATING BATH

From Lysons’ _Account of the Roman Villa at Woodchester_.]

The learned class was a separate caste: with merchants and soldiers,

the lawyers, orators, grammarians, and physicians had nothing to do.

They kept up among themselves a great deal of the old pagan forms. If

they could no longer worship Venus, they could write verses in the old

pagan style about her. Probably a great many continued, if only from

habit, the pagan customs and the pagan manner of thought. The Church

had not yet given to the world a crowd of saints to take the place of

the gods, goddesses, nymphs, satyrs, and sprites which watched over

everything, from the Roman Empire itself down to a plain citizen’s

garden.

The theatre was entirely given over to mimes and pantomimes: comedy

and tragedy were dead. The pieces performed in dumb show were

scenes from classical mythology. They were presented with a great

deal of dancing. Everybody danced. Daphne danced while she fled; and

Niobe, dancing, dissolved into tears. The circus had its races; the

amphitheatre its mimic contests and its gladiatorial displays.

These things were done at Bordeaux; it is therefore pretty certain

that they were also done in London, whose civilisation was equally

Gallo-Roman. London was a place of importance equal with Bordeaux; a

place with a greater trade; the seat of a Vicarius Spectabilis, a Right

Honourable Lieutenant-Governor; one of the thirteen capitals of the

thirteen Dioceses of the Roman Empire.

[Illustration: TESSELLATED PAVEMENT

From Lysons’ _Account of the Roman Villa at Woodchester_.]

Any account of Roman London must include a description and plan of a

Roman villa. The one I have chosen is the palatial villa which was

recovered by Samuel Lysons exactly a hundred years ago at Woodchester.

The plan is given in his book, _An Account of Roman Antiquities

discovered at Woodchester_; it shows the arrangement of the rooms and

the courts.

“The visitor approaching this villa when it was standing observed

before him a long low wall with an entrance arch. The wall was

probably intended as some kind of fortification; the people in the

house numbered enough to defend it against any wandering company of

marauders. Within the entrance, where he was received by a porter or

guard, the visitor found himself in a large square court, the sides of

which were 150 feet. On either side, to east and west, were buildings

entered from the great court: in one there were twelve rooms; in the

other a curious arrangement of rooms communicating with each other

which were thought to be the baths. The rooms on the west side were

perhaps the chambers and workshops of the slaves and servants.

On the north side a smaller gateway gave access to a court not so large

as the first, but still a good-sized court, 90 feet square; it was

surrounded on three sides by a gallery, which was closed in winter, as

the hypocaust under it indicates. From this court access was obtained

to a lovely hall, decorated with a mosaic pavement of great artistic

value, with sculptures, paintings, vases, and glass. On either side

of this hall were chambers, also decorated in the same way. Under the

floors of the chambers was the hypocaust, where were kindled the fires

whose hot air passed through pipes warming all the chambers. Fragments

of statues, of which one was of Magnentius the usurper, also glass,

pottery, marble, horns, coins. The building covered an area of 550 feet

by 300 feet, and it is by no means certain that the whole of it has

been uncovered.

It is interesting to note that on one of the mosaics found at this

place is the injunction ‘... B][N][C ...’[18]—that is, _Bonum Eventum

Bene Colite_—Do not forget to worship Good Luck. To this god, who

should surely be worshipped by all the world, there was a temple in

Rome.

The Roman Briton, if he lived in such state as this, was fortunate

above his fellows. But in the smaller villas the same plan of an open

court, square, and built upon one, two, or more sides, prevailed.

The walls were made of stone up to a certain height, when wood took

the place of stone; the uprights were placed near together, and the

interstices made air-tight and water-tight with clay and straw; the

roof was of shingles or stone tiles. Wall paintings have been found

everywhere, as we have already seen; the pavements were in many cases

most elaborate mosaics.”

The construction of a villa for a wealthy Roman Briton is easy to be

understood. As to the question of the smaller houses, it is not so

easy to answer. A small house, detached, has been found at Lympne. It

was about 50 feet long and 30 feet broad. The plan shows that it was

divided into four chambers, one of which had a circular apse. The rooms

were all about the same size, namely, above 22 feet by 14 feet. A row

of still smaller houses has been found at Aldborough. Almost all the

streets in London stand upon masses of buried Roman houses. If we wish

to reconstruct the city, we must consider not only the villas in the

more open spaces as the official residences in the citadel, but also

the streets and alleys of the poorer sort. Now at Pompeii the streets

are narrow; they are arranged irregularly; there are only one or two

in which any kind of carriage could pass. The same thing has been

observed at Cilirnum (Chesters), in Northumberland, and at Maryport

in Cumberland. Very likely the narrow streets leading north of Thames

Street are on the same sites as the ancient Roman streets of London in

its poorer and more crowded parts. It stands to reason that the houses

of the working people and the slaves could not be built of stone.

The nature of the trade of London is arrived at by considering—(1) What

people wanted; (2) what they made, produced, and grew for their own

use; and (3) what they exported.

[Illustration: ROMAN ROADS RADIATING FROM LONDON]

To take the third point first. Britain was a country already rich.

The south part of the island, which is all that has to be considered,

produced iron, tin, lead, and copper; coal was dug up and used for fuel

when it was near the surface; skins were exported; and the continual

fighting on the march produced a never-failing supply of slaves for the

gladiatorial contests. Wheat and grain of all kinds were also largely

grown and exported.

As for manufactures, pottery was made in great quantities, but not of

the finer kinds. Glass was made. The art of weaving was understood.

The arts of painting, mosaic work, and building had arrived at some

excellence. There were workmen in gold and other metals.

As for what people wanted. Those who were poor among them wanted

nothing but what the country gave them; for instance, the river was

teeming with fish of all kinds, and the vast marshes stretching out to

the mouth of the Thames were the homes of innumerable birds. No one

need starve who could fish in the river or trap birds in the marsh.

In this respect they were like the common sort, who lived entirely

on the produce of their own lands and their own handiwork till tea,

tobacco, and sugar became articles of daily use. The better class,

however, demanded more than this. They wanted wine, to begin with; this

was their chief want. They wanted, besides, silks for hangings and for

dress, fine stuffs, statues, lamps, mirrors, furniture, costly arms,

books, parchment, musical instruments, spices, oil, perfumes, gems,

fine pottery.

The merchants of London received all these things, sent back the ships

laden with the produce of the country, and dispatched these imported

goods along the high roads to the cities of the interior and to the

lords of the villas.

London was the centre of at least five great high roads. In this

respect it was alone among the towns of Roman Britannia. These highways

are laid down in Guest’s _Origines Celticæ_. They connect the City

with every part of the island: on the north-east with Colchester; on

the north with Lincoln and York; on the north-west with Uriconium

(Wroxeter), for Shrewsbury and Wales and Ireland; on the west with

Silchester, for Winchester and Salisbury; on the south-east with

Richborough, Dover, and Lympne or Lymne; and on the south with Regnum

(Chichester)—if we may fill in the part between London and Dorking

which Guest has not indicated.

This fact is by itself a conclusive proof that London was the great

commercial centre of the island, even if no other proofs existed. And

since the whole of the trade was in the hands of the London merchants,

we can understand that in times when there was a reasonable amount

of security on the road and on the Channel, when the Count of the

Saxon Shore patrolled the high seas with his fleet, and the Duke of

Britain kept back the Scot and the Pict, the city of Augusta became

very wealthy indeed. There were, we have seen, times when there was

no safety, times when the pirate did what he pleased and the marauder

from the north roamed unmolested about the country. Then the London

merchants suffered and trade declined. Thus, when Queen Boadicea’s

men massacred the people of London, when the soldiers revolted in the

reign of Commodus, when the pirates began their incursions before the

establishment of the British fleet, when Carausius used the fleet for

his own purposes, and in the troubles which preceded and followed the

departure of the legion, there were anxious times for those engaged in

trade. But, on the whole, the prosperity of London was continuous for

three hundred and fifty years.

FOOTNOTES:

[18] ][ is no doubt intended for the Greek _eta_ and means here E, so

that the recovered part represents only BENEC.

CHAPTER IV

REMAINS OF ROMAN LONDON

If one stands in the Museum of the Guildhall and looks round upon the

scanty remains of Roman London there exhibited, one feels a cold doubt

as to the alleged wealth and greatness of the ancient city. Is this all

that has to be shown after an occupation of nearly four hundred years?

There is not much more: one may find a room at the British Museum

devoted to this subject; and there are a few small private collections

containing nothing of importance. Yet when we consider the length of

time since Roman London fell; the long history of reconstruction,

fire, and successive occupations; the fact that twice—once for more

than a hundred years—London was entirely deserted, we must acknowledge

that more remains of Roman London than might have been expected.

What exists, for instance, of that other great Roman city now called

Bordeaux? What, even, of Lutetia Parisiorum? What of Massilia, the most

ancient of Gallic cities?

There are, however, many remains of Roman London which are not

preserved in any collection. Some are above ground; some have been dug

up and carried away; some have been disclosed, examined, sketched, and

again covered up.

[Illustration: ROMAN ALTAR TO DIANA FOUND IN ST. MARTIN’S-LE-GRAND]

Antiquaries have been pleased to find traces of Roman relics of which

no memory or tradition remains. Thus, we are assured that there was

formerly a Campus Martius in London; its site is said to have been that

of the Old Artillery Ground. A temple of Diana is said to have stood

on the south side of St. Paul’s. There was a mysterious and extensive

crypt called the _Camera Dianæ_, supposed to have been connected

with the worship of that goddess; it was standing in the seventeenth

century. Probably it was the crypt of some mediæval house. Stukeley

persuaded himself that he found in Long Acre the “magnificent circus,

or racecourse, founded by Eli, father of Casvelhun”; he also believed

that he had found in Hedge Lane the survival of the _agger_ or tumulus

of King Eli’s grave. The same antiquary preferred to trace Julius

Cæsar’s Camp in the Brill opposite old St. Pancras Church.

It is sometimes stated that excavations in London have been few and

scattered over the whole area of the City; that there has been no

systematic and scientific work carried on such as, for instance, was

conducted, thirty years ago, at Jerusalem by Sir Charles Warren. But

when we consider that there is no single house in the City which has

not had half a dozen predecessors on the same site, whose foundations,

therefore, have not been dug up over and over again, no one can form

any estimate of the remains, Roman, British, and Saxon, which have been

dug up, broken up, and carted away. During certain works at St. Mary

Woolnoth, for instance, the men came upon vast remains of “rubbish,”

consisting of broken pottery and other things, the whole of which were

carried off to St. George’s Fields to mend or make the roads there. The

only protection of the Roman remains, so long as there was no watch

kept over the workmen, lay in the fact that the Roman level was in many

places too deep for the ordinary foundations. Thus in Cheapside it was

18 feet below the present surface; in other places it was even more.

The collection of Roman antiquities seems to have been first undertaken

by John Conyers, an apothecary, at the time of the Great Fire. The

rebuilding of the City caused much digging for foundations, in the

course of which a great many Roman things were brought to light. Most

of these were unheeded. Conyers, however, collected many specimens,

which were afterwards bought by Dr. John Woodward. After his death

part of the collection was bought by the University of Cambridge; the

rest was sold by auction “at Mr. Cooper’s in the Great Piazza, Covent

Garden.” Three other early collectors were John Harwood, D.C.L.;

John Bagford, a bookseller, who seems to have had some knowledge of

coins; and Mr. Kemp, whose collection contained a few London things,

especially the two terra-cotta lamps found on the site of St. Paul’s,

which were supposed to prove the existence of a temple of Diana at that

spot.

Burial-places and tombs have been unearthed in various parts of the

City, but all outside the walls of the Roman fortress. Thus, they

have been found on the site of St. Paul’s, in Bow Lane, Queen Street,

Cornhill, St. Dunstan’s Hill, near Carpenter’s Hall, in Camomile

Street near the west end of St. Helen’s Church, in King’s Street and

Ken Street, Southwark—outside Bishopsgate in “Lollesworth,” afterwards

called Spitalfields. The last named was the most extensive of the

ancient cemeteries.

Stow thus describes it:—

“On the East Side of this Churchyard lyeth a large Field, of old time

called Lolesworth, now Spittlefield, which about the Year 1576 was

broken up for Clay to make Brick: In the digging whereof many earthen

Pots called Urnæ were found full of Ashes, and burnt Bones of Men, to

wit of the Romans that inhabited here. For it was the custom of the

Romans, to burn their Dead, to put their Ashes in an Urn, and then to

bury the same with certain Ceremonies, in some Field appointed for that

purpose near unto their City.

[Illustration: ROMAN BATH, STRAND LANE]

Every of these pots had in them (with the Ashes of the Dead) one Piece

of Copper Money, with the Inscription of the Emperour then reigning:

Some of them were of Claudius, some of Vespasian, some of Nero, of

Antoninus Pius, of Trajanus, and others. Besides those Urns, many

other pots were found in the same place, made of a white Earth, with

long Necks and Handles, like to our Stone Jugs: these were empty, but

seemed to be buried full of some liquid Matter, long since consumed and

soaked through. For there were found divers Phials, and other fashioned

Glasses, some most cunningly wrought, such as I have not seen the like,

and some of Crystal, all which had Water in them, nothing differing in

clearness, taste, or savour from common Spring Water, whatsoever it was

at the first. Some of these Glasses had Oil in them very thick, and

earthy in savour. Some were supposed to have Balm in them, but had lost

the Virtue: Many of these Pots and Glasses were broken in cutting of

the Clay, so that few were taken up whole.

There were also found divers dishes and cups of a fine red coloured

Earth, which shewed outwardly such a shining smoothness, as if they

had been of Coral. Those had (in the bottoms) Roman Letters printed,

there were also Lamps of white Earth, and red artificially wrought with

divers Antiques about them, some three or four Images, made of white

earth, about a Span long each of them: One I remember was of Pallas,

the rest I have forgotten. I myself have reserved (amongst divers of

those Antiquities there found) one Urna, with the Ashes and Bones,

and one Pot of white Earth very small, not exceeding the quantity of

a quarter of a Wine Pint, made in shape of a Hare, squatted upon her

Legs, and between her Ears is the mouth of the pot.

There hath also been found (in the same Field) divers Coffins of Stone,

containing the Bones of Men: These I suppose to be the Burials of some

special Persons, in time of the Britons, or Saxons, after the Romans

had left to govern here. Moreover, there were also found the Skulls and

Bones of Men, without Coffins, or rather whose Coffins (being of great

Timber) were consumed.” (Strype, vol. i. bk. ii. chap. vi.)

The description of all the Roman remains found in London would take too

long. Let us, however, mention some of the more important (see App.

III.).

An undoubted piece of Roman work is the old bath still existing in

Strand Lane. This bath is too small for public use: it belonged to a

private house, built outside London, on the slope of the low hill, then

a grassy field, traversed by half a dozen tiny streams. The bath has

been often pictured.

Many pavements, some of great length and breadth, have been discovered

below the surface: of these some have been taken up; some have been

drawn. More than forty pavements have been found north of the Thames.

These were nearly all on the eastern side of the Walbrook, that side

which has always been marked out as the original Roman settlement, and

many of them were found within the assumed boundaries of the Roman

Prætorium.[19]

Roman remains have been found under the Tower of Mary-le-Bow Church,

where there was a Roman causeway; in Crooked Lane, in Clement’s Lane,

in King William Street, in Lombard Street, in Warwick Square, on the

site of Leadenhall Market, all along the High Street, Borough as far

as St. George’s Church, in Threadneedle Street, Leadenhall Street,

Fenchurch Street, Birchin Lane, Lime Street, Lothbury, Gracechurch

Street, Eastcheap, Queen Street, Paternoster Row, Bishopsgate Street

Within, and many other places.

Inscribed stones have also been found in Church Street, Whitechapel, in

the Tenter Ground, Goodman’s Fields, Minories, in the Tower of London,

at London Wall near Finsbury Circus, in Playhouse Yard, Blackfriars, at

Pentonville, on Tower Hill, in Nicholas Lane, Lombard Street, in Hart

Street, Crutched Friars.

A figure of a youth carrying a bow was found at Bevis Marks. A small

altar was dug up in making excavations for Goldsmiths’ Hall.

A large number of objects were found in 1837 by dredging the Thames

near London Bridge. They were engraved by the Society of Antiquaries,

and published by Mr. C. Roach Smith in his _Illustrations of Roman

London_.

Among other objects which he has used in illustration of his book are

pottery, lamps, bronzes, glass, coins, and utensils of various kinds.

A very interesting figure was discovered in Queen Street in 1842. It is

described by Mr. W. Chaffers in _Archæologia_, vol. xxx. p. 543:—

“While watching the progress of the excavations recently made in Queen

Street, Cheapside (for the formation of a sewer), I was fortunately

enabled to obtain possession of several rare and curious specimens

of Roman art. A short distance from Watling Street, a fine piece of

Roman wall, running directly across the street, was exposed to view

in a remarkably perfect condition, built of flat red tiles embedded

in solid and compact mortar. Several others, lower down the street,

were also discovered. Within a few yards of the wall, one of the

bricklayers, removing some earth, struck his trowel against something

which he conjectured to be a brass tap; but, on clearing further, he

found it was the right heel of the figure, which lay upon its face. The

height of the figure, if standing erect, would be 15 inches; but in its

stooping posture, the perpendicular height from the base to the crown

of the head is only 11 inches. It is evidently intended to represent

a person in the attitude of shooting an arrow from a bow. The bow and

arrow were probably of richer metal than the figure itself; but no

vestiges of them were discovered. The aperture for the bow is seen in

the closed left hand, which held it, and the bent fingers of the right

appear in the act of drawing the arrow to its full extent previous

to its evolation. The eyes are of silver, with the pupils open; the

hair disposed in graceful curls on the head, as well as on the chin

and upper lip. The left hand, which grasped the bow and sustained the

arrow, is so placed as to bring the latter to a level with the eye;

and the steadfast look and determined expression of the whole face are

much heightened by the silver eyes. It was found at about the depth of

between twelve and thirteen feet.”

In 1825 a small silver figure of Harpocrates was found in the Thames.

It is now in the British Museum.

“Early in December 1877 considerable excavations were made at Pie

Corner,[20] over a space about a 100 feet long and 40 feet broad. At a

depth of 11 feet, and at a spot 150 feet, measuring along the houses,

from the middle of the great gateway of the hospital, the workmen

came upon what they took for two great blocks of stone, which lay half

inside the front line of the new building and half under the footway

of the street. Continuing their excavation they found that the stones

were two great coffins lying side by side, close together. A piece was

broken off the lid of each, and in this state, before their contents

had been disturbed at all, they were seen by Dr. Dyce Duckworth. In the

southern sarcophagus was a leaden case containing a woman’s skeleton.

This was disturbed hastily, the workmen being anxious to secure the

lead. The other sarcophagus contained two skeletons, a man’s and a

woman’s. As these had been somewhat displaced when I saw them half an

hour later, I will quote a note which Dr. Duckworth has kindly written

to me as to their exact position—‘The female faced west (the mediæval

ecclesiastical position), the male faced east (layman’s position).’ The

sarcophagi lay very nearly, but not precisely, east and west.”

A great many Roman remains were found in 1840 on digging for the

foundations of the new Royal Exchange. On the east side of the area

there were fragments showing that older buildings had been taken

away. In the middle there were found thirty-two cesspools, in some

of which were ancient objects. These were cleared out and filled up

with concrete. The soil consisted of vegetable earth, accumulation and

broken remains of various kinds with gravel at the depth of 16 feet 6

inches. At the western end, however, the workmen came upon the remains

of a small building _in situ_ resting on the gravel. The walls of the

Old Exchange stood upon this building. When it ceased, oak piles had

been driven down and sleepers laid upon the heads of these piles; a

rubble wall was discovered below the piles, and under the wall was an

ancient pit, sunk 13 feet through the gravel down to the clay.

“The pit was irregular in shape, but it measured about 50 feet from

north to south, and 34 from east to west, and was filled with hardened

mud, in which were contained considerable quantities of animal and

vegetable remains, apparently the discarded refuse of the inhabitants

of the vicinity. In the same depository were also found very numerous

fragments of the red Roman pottery, usually called Samian ware, pieces

of glass vessels, broken terra-cotta lamps, parts of amphoræ, mortaria,

and other articles made of earth, and all the rubbish which might

naturally become accumulated in a pond in the course of years. In

this mass likewise occurred a number of Imperial Roman coins, several

bronze and iron styles, parts of writing-tables, a bather’s strigil, a

large quantity of caliga-soles, sandals, and remains of leather.” (Sir

William Tite.)

The objects taken out of this pit are catalogued and described by Tite

in his volume called _Antiquities discovered in Excavating for the

Foundations of the New Royal Exchange_.

Roman pottery, found in Ivy Lane and in St. Paul’s Churchyard, was

exhibited at the evening meeting of the L. and Midd. Arch. Soc., Sept.

18, 1860.

Roman keys have been found near St. Swithin’s Church, Cannon Street, at

Charing Cross beside the statue of Charles I., beneath Gerard’s Hall

Crypt, and in the Crypt of St. Paul’s while preparing for the interment

of the Duke of Wellington.

[Illustration: ROMAN ANTIQUITIES FOUND IN LONDON, 1786

From _Archæologia,_ vol. viii.]

“An important discovery was made in the year 1835 on the Coleman Street

side near the public-house called the Swan’s Nest; here was laid open a

pit or well containing a store of earthen vessels of various patterns

and capacities. This well had been carefully planked over with thick

boards, and at first exhibited no signs of containing anything besides

the native gravelly soil, but at a considerable depth other contents

were revealed. The vases were placed on their sides longitudinally, and

presented the appearance of having been regularly packed or embedded in

the mud or sand, which had settled so closely round them that a great

number were broken or damaged in being extricated. But those preserved

entire, or nearly so, are of the same material as the handles, necks,

and pieces of the light-brown coloured vessels met with in such

profusion throughout the Roman level in London. Some are of a darker

clay approaching to a bluish black, with borders of reticulated work

running round the upper part, and one of a singularly elegant form is

of a pale-bluish colour with a broad black border at the bottom. Some

are without handles, others have either one or two. Their capacity for

liquids may be stated as varying from one quart to two gallons, though

some that were broken were of much larger dimensions. A small Samian

patera, with the ivy-leaf border, and a few figured pieces of the same,

were found near the bottom of this well, and also a small brass coin of

Allectus, with reverse of the galley, _Virtus Aug._, and moreover two

iron implements resembling a boat-hook and a bucket-handle. The latter

of these carries such a homely and modern look, that, had I no further

evidence of its history than the mere assurance of the excavators, I

should have instantly rejected it, from suspicion of its having been

brought to the spot to be palmed off on the unwary; but the fact of

these articles being disinterred in the presence of a trustworthy

person in my employ disarms all doubt of their authenticity. The

dimensions of the pit or well were about 2 feet 9 inches or 3 feet

square, and it was boarded on each side with narrow planks about 2 feet

long, and 1½ to 2 inches thick, placed upright, but which framework was

discontinued towards the bottom of the pit, which merged from a square

into an oval form.” (C. Roach Smith in _Archæologia_, vol. xxix.)

[Illustration: ROMAN LONDON]

The following is a list of the more important tessellated pavements

which have been discovered in the City:—

[Illustration: STATUETTES OF ROMAN DEITIES

British Museum.]

1661. In Scot’s Yard, Bush Lane, with the remains of a large building.

This is supposed to have been an official residence in the

Prætorium. Sent to Gresham College.

1681. Near St. Andrew’s, Holborn—deep down.

” Bush Lane, Cannon Street—deep down.

1707. In Camomile Street—5 feet below the surface, with stone walls.

1785, 1786. Sherborne Lane. Four pavements were found here.

1786. Birchin Lane, with remains of walls and pottery, at depth of

9 feet, 12 feet, and 13 feet.

1787. Northumberland Avenue and Crutched Friars—12 feet deep. Society

of Antiquaries.

1792. At Poulett House, behind the Navy Pay Office, Great Winchester

Street.

1794. Pancras Lane—11 feet deep.

1803. Leadenhall Street—at depth of 9 feet 6 inches. British Museum.

1805. Bank of England, the north-west corner. British Museum.

1805. St. Clement’s Church.

1835. Bank of England, opposite Founders’ Court, and St. Margaret,

Lothbury.

1836. Crosby Square—40 feet long, and 12 feet 1 inch deep.

1839. Bishopsgate Within.

1840. Excise Office Yard, Bishopsgate Street—13 feet deep.

1841. The French Protestant Church, Threadneedle Street—14 feet

2 inches deep. Two other pavements also found in this

street.

” West of the Royal Exchange—at the depth of 16 feet 6 inches.

” Paternoster Row.

” Sherborne Lane, with amphoræ, etc.

1843. Wood Street.

” King’s Arms Yard, Moorgate Street.

” Coleman Street—buildings at a depth of 20 feet, with pottery,

sandals, etc.

” M. Garnet’s, Fenchurch Street.

1844. Threadneedle Street, near Merchant Taylors’ Hall—at depth of

12 feet.

1847. Threadneedle Street, with the hypocaust and foundation of a

house.

1848. Coal Exchange—at depth of 12 feet. Baths or villa with mosaic.

1854. The Old Excise Office, Old Broad Street—at the depth of 13 feet.

” Bishopsgate Street—at the depth of 13 feet.

1857. Birchin Lane.

1859. Fenchurch Street, opposite Cullum Street—11 feet 6 inches deep.

” On the site of Honey Lane Market, while making trenches for new

walls, at a depth of 17 feet the workmen came upon a

tessellated pavement; the portion uncovered was 6 or

7 feet long, and 4 feet wide. Some 30 feet north of this

pavement, and adjoining a spring of clear water, was

found a thick wall which had the appearance of a Roman

wall. In the earth were found many skulls and human bones.

1863. Leadenhall Street, with the walls of a room, etc. 19 feet

6 inches deep.

” Paternoster Row—40 feet long.

” East India House—19 feet 6 inches deep. Another pavement found

here.

1864. Paternoster Row—9 feet 6 inches deep.

” St. Paul’s Churchyard—18 feet deep.

1867. Union Bank of London, St. Mildred’s Court.

1869. Poultry.

” Tottenham Yard.

” Lothbury.

” Bush Lane.

” S.E. Railway Terminus.

” Cornhill, with the foundations of walls.

” Bucklersbury—19 feet deep.

1867-1871. Queen Victoria Street. Roman pavement in the middle of the

roadway, Mansion House end. Close beside the pavement was

found an ancient well, and a passage ran between.

The things that have been found are all pagan: pottery with the

well-known Roman figures upon it, figures certainly not Christian;

statues and statuettes of Harpocrates, Atys, Mercury, Apollo, the Deæ

Matres; tessellated pavements of which the figures and designs contain

no reference to Christianity.

As we have seen, tiles have been found inscribed with the letters PRB.

Lon. or PRBR. Lon. (see p. 74).

It is on symbolical monuments that we expect to find evidence of the

religion of a people. It is therefore strange that in Roman London,

where undoubtedly Christianity was planted very early, we find no trace

of the Christian religion. Gildas, who is supposed to have lived in

the latter part of the sixth century, refers to the first preaching of

Christianity as having taken place soon after the defeat of Boadicea,

but reliance cannot be placed on the few historical statements which

we find in the midst of his ravings; and he says that the Church was

spread all over the country, with churches and altars, the three orders

of priesthood, and monasteries. The persecution of Diocletian was felt

in Britannia, where there were many martyrs, with the destruction of

the churches, and a great falling from the faith. When the persecutions

ceased, Gildas goes on, the churches were rebuilt. Tertullian says in

A.D. 208, “Britannica inaccessa Romanis loca, Christo vero

subdita.” At the Council of Arles, A.D. 314, as we have seen,

three British Bishops were present. At later councils British Bishops

were always present. Yet no ruins remain in London of a Roman British

Church. No monuments, no literature, no traditions remain; only here

and there a word—here and there a monogram.

In the year 1813, in the excavations made for the new Custom-House,

three lines of wooden embankments were laid bare at the distances of

53, 86, and 103 feet within the range of the existing wharf. At the

same time, about 50 feet from the outer edge of the wharf, a wall was

discovered running east and west, built with chalk rubble and faced

with Purbeck stone, which was probably part of the old river-side wall.

No trace of any important buildings was found in the whole of the area

thus laid open, but between the embankments there were the remains of

buildings interspersed with pits and layers of rushes in different

stages of decomposition.

Sir William Tite (_Catalogue of Antiquities_) speaks of other

discoveries along the river:—

“The excavations for sewers, constructed along this part of the

boundary of London, appear satisfactorily to have ascertained that

nearly the whole south side of the road forming the line from Lower

Thames Street to Temple Street has been gained from the river by a

series of strong embankments. At the making of the sewer at Wool Quay,

the soil turned up was similar to that discovered at the Custom-House;

and the mouth of an ancient channel of timber was found under the

street. The ground also contained large quantities of bone skewers

about 10 inches in length, perforated with holes in the thicker ends,

recalling the bone skates employed by the youths of London about the

end of the twelfth century, as described by FitzStephen. Between

Billingsgate and Fish-street Hill the whole street was found to be

filled with piling, and especially at the gateway leading to Botolph

Wharf—which, it will be remembered, was the head of the oldest known

London Bridge,—where the piles were placed as closely together as

they could be driven, as well as for some distance on each side. In

certain parts of the line the embankment was formed by substantial

walling, as at the foot of Fish-street Hill, where a strong body of

clear water gushed out from beneath it. At the end of Queen Street

also, and stretching along the front of Vintners’ Hall, a considerable

piece of thick walling was encountered; and another interesting

specimen was taken up, extending from Broken Wharf to Lambeth Hill.

At Old Fish-street Hill this embankment was found to be 18 feet in

thickness; and it returned a considerable distance up Lambeth Hill,

gradually becoming less substantial as it receded inland. Both of

these walls were constructed of the remains of other works, comprising

blocks of stone, rough, squared, and wrought and moulded, together

with roofing-tiles, rubble, and a variety of different materials run

together with grout.” (Pp. xxiv.-xxv.)

Again, on the construction of the new London Bridge it was found

necessary to take down St. Michael’s, Crooked Lane, and to construct a

large and deep sewer under the line of approach. Three distinct lines

of embankment were discovered marking as many bulwarks by which ground

was gained for the wharves. One of these lines, lying 20 feet under the

south abutment of the Thames Street landmark, was made by the trunks of

oak trees squared with the axe. Quantities of Roman things were found

100 feet north of the river.

During the demolition of houses for the construction of the new Coal

Exchange opposite Billingsgate Market in 1847, the workmen came upon

extensive remains of a Roman building. They lay about 60 feet behind

the line of Thames Street, and about 14 feet below the level of the

pavement. On its western side was a thick brick wall; the foundations

were piles of black oak, showing that the building stood upon the

Thames mud outside and below the Roman fort; next to the pavement,

but without communication, was a chamber, which was believed by those

who saw it to be a portion of the “laconicum” or sweating-room of a

Roman bath, of which the hypocaust was also found. These interesting

investigations could not be continued except by working under the

warehouses beyond. They were therefore all covered over, and will

probably never again be brought to light.

The sarcophagi which have been found are few in number (see App.

IV.). The most important are—(1) that which was found at Clapton, (2)

that found within the precincts of Westminster Abbey, and (3) that

found in Haydon Square, Minories. The first was found in the natural

gravel 2 feet 6 inches below the surface, lying due south-east and

west; it is of white coarse-grained marble and is cut from a solid

block. It is 6 feet 3 inches long, 1 foot 3 inches wide, and 1 foot 6

inches deep; the thickness is about 3½ inches. The inner surface is

smooth, with a rise of half an inch as a rest for the head. No lid or

covering was found. It is plain on all sides but the front, which is

ornamented with a fluted pattern. In the centre is a medallion, about

12 inches in diameter, containing a bust of the person interred. There

is a name, but it cannot be deciphered. The Westminster sarcophagus

is preserved in the approach to the Chapter-House. That which was

discovered at Clapton was of marble. Two, containing enriched leaden

coffins, have been found at Bartholomew’s Hospital; and another on the

banks of the Fleet River, near to Seacoal Lane. The position of some

of these, distant from any cemetery, shows that the Roman custom of

making tombs serve as landmarks or monuments of boundaries was followed

in Roman London. In making the excavations for the railway station at

Cannon Street, there was found across Thames Street a complete network

of piles and transverse beams; this was traced for a considerable

distance along the river bank and in an upward direction towards Cannon

Street. These beams indicate, first, that the ground here—below the

hillocks, beside the Walbrook—was marshy and yielding; and, next, that

very considerable buildings were raised upon so solid and so costly a

foundation.

[Illustration: ROMAN SEPULCHRAL STONE FOUND AT LUDGATE BY SIR

CHRISTOPHER WREN]

The following are the most important of the _Inscriptions and

Sculptures_:—

1. A tombstone found by Sir Christopher Wren in Ludgate Hill while

digging the foundation of St. Martin’s Church. It is now among the

Arundel Marbles at Oxford. The following is the inscription:—“D.

M. VIVIO MARCIANO M LEG. II AUG. IANUARIA MARINA CONJUNX PIENTISSIMA

POSUIT MEMORIAM.” Which is in full:—“Diis Manibus. Vivio Marciano

militi legionis secundae Augustae. Januaria Marina conjunx pientissima

posuit memoriam.”

2. Another was found in 1806 behind the London Coffee House, Ludgate

Hill, with a woman’s head in stone and the trunk of a statue of

Hercules. The following is the inscription:—D. M. CL. MARTINAE

AN XIX ANENCLETUS PROVINC CONJUGI PIENTISSIMAE H. S. E.—“Diis

Manibus. Claudiae Martinae annorum novendecim Anencletus Provincialis

conjugi pientissimae hoc sepulchrum erexit.”

3. Found in Church Street, Whitechapel, about the year 1779:—D.

M. JUL. VALIUS. MIL. LEG. XX. V. V. AN. XL. H. S. E. CA. FLAVIO.

ATTIO. HER.—“Diis Manibus. Julius Valius miles legionis vicesimae

Valerianae victricis annorum quadraginta hic situs est, Caio Flavio

Attio herede.”

4. Found in the Tenter Ground, Goodman’s Fields, in 1787; 15 in.

by 12 in., and 3 in. thick—of native green marble:—D. M. FL.

AGRICOLA. MIL. LEG. VI. VICT. V. AN. XLII. DX ALBIA FAUSTINA CONJUGI

INCOMPARABILI F. C.—“Diis Manibus. Flavius Agricola miles legionis

sextae victricis vixit annos quadraginta duos dies decem Albia Faustina

Conjugi incomparabili faciendum curavit.”

5. Found within the Tower, 1778; 2 ft. 8 in., by 2 ft. 4 in.:—DIS

MANIB. T. LICINI ASCANIUS. F.—“Diis Manibus. Tito Licinio,

Ascanius fecit.”

6. Found outside London wall near Finsbury Circus—now in the Guildhall

Library:—D. M. GRATA DAGOBITI FIL AN XL SOLINUS CONJUGI KAR F

C.—“Diis Manibus. Grata Dagobiti Filia annorum quadraginta Solinus

conjugi karissimae fieri curavit.”

7. Found in Playhouse Yard, Blackfriars—formerly outside the City wall,

now in the British Museum:—“Diis Manibus ... R. L. F. C. Celsus ...

Speculator Legionis Secundae Augustae annorum ... natione Dardanus

Gu ... Valerius Pudens et ... Probus Speculatores Leg. II. fieri

curaverunt.”

8. Found on Tower Hill, 1852; 6 ft. 4 in., by 2 ft. 6 in.:—A ALFID.

POMPO. JUSSA EX TESTAMENT ... HER. POS. ANNOR. LXX. NA AELINI H.

S. EST.—“A Alfidio Pompo (Pomponio?) jussa ex testamento heres

posuit, annorum septuaginta (Na Aelini?), hic situs est.”

9. Found also on Tower Hill; 5 ft. 4 in., by 2 ft. 6 in.:—“DIS

ANIBUS ABALPINICLASSICIANI.”

10. Found at Pentonville, serving as a paving-stone before the door of

a cottage:— “... URNI ... LEGXX GAC ... M ...”

11. Found in Nicholas Lane, near Cannon Street, June 1850, at the depth

of 11 or 12 feet, lying close to a wall 2 feet in width. It is only a

fragment:—“NUMC ... PROV ... BRITA ...”

[Illustration: ROMAN STATUE DISCOVERED AT BEVIS MARKS

Roach Smith’s _Catalogue of London Antiquities_.]

12. Found on an ingot of silver within the Tower of London in 1777:

“EX OFFI. HONORIM”—_i.e._ Ex officinâ—from the workshop of

Honorinus.

As we have already said, the things that have been found are nearly

all pagan. Only on two Roman pavements have been found the Christian

symbols, on one coin, and on one stone in the Roman wall. This silence

proves, to my mind, that the Christian religion, down to the middle of

the fourth century, held a very obscure place among the many religions

followed and professed by the people. Except in times of persecution,

everybody worshipped any god he pleased—Christ, or Apollo, or the Sun,

or the Mother. But those who followed the Christian faith were not the

soldiers, or their captains, or the Imperial officers, or the rich

merchants: they were the lower class, the craftsmen of the cities, and

the slaves among whom the Christian hope prevailed.

[Illustration: ROMAN ANTIQUITIES FOUND IN LONDON IN 1786

From _Archæologia_, vol. viii.]

During an excavation at Hart Street, Crutched Friars, there was found

at a considerable depth below the surface a fragment of a group

representing the Deæ Matres—the Three Mothers. The fragment measures 2

ft. 8 in. in length, 1 ft. 5 in. in width, and 1 ft. 8 in. in depth.

The sculpture represented three female figures fully clothed with

flowing draperies, each bearing in her lap a basket of fruit. Perhaps

their _sacellum_ or temple was close by, but no search for it seems to

have been made. This is not the place for enlarging upon the worship of

these strange goddesses. Their figures have been found at Winchester,

at York, and along the Roman wall; but they were essentially German

deities. That they have been found in this country side by side with

the classical gods shows that here, as in all other Roman provinces,

the people received a great mixture of gods from all parts of the world

among their original gods. The Three Mothers represented the productive

power of Nature: the fruits signify the annual harvest. It is easy

to understand how, starting with this idea, the whole of life—birth,

growth, strength, decay, and death—may be connected with the Mothers of

all. We may worship the Sun as the creator, or the Deæ Matres as the

producers. We may have Baal, Apollo, the Sun—the Father; or we may have

Venus, Osiris, or the Matres—the Mothers. A port which was a place of

resort for merchants of all nations would, in those days of universal

respect and toleration of all gods, offer a strange collection of

gods. Long before Christianity was established there were Christians

in the City side by side with those who worshipped Nature as creator

or producer—those who adopted the gods of the Romans and those who

preserved the memory and the teaching of the Druids. But, whatever be

said or conjectured, nothing can be more remarkable than the absence of

Christian symbols.

Returning to the Roman remains found in London, we come to

the wall paintings, of which a considerable number have been

recovered—“cart-loads,” according to Roach Smith. “In some localities

I have seen them carried away by cart-loads. Enough has been preserved

of them to decide that the rooms of the house were usually painted in

square panels or compartments, the prevailing colours of which were

bright red, dark grey, and black, with borders of various colours.”

A quantity of pottery has also been found. Here, in fact, was an

extensive industry in the making of fictile vessels. In the year 1677,

on the north-west of St. Paul’s Cathedral, were discovered remains of

Roman kilns: they were found and sketched by John Conyers. He says

that there were four of them lying in the sandy loam from which they

were constructed. The one he sketched was 5 feet deep, and the same in

breadth. The kiln was full of the coarser kind of pottery. The figures

show the form of the vessels. The potters’ marks are very numerous.

Some show that the vessels were brought from abroad, but these are

comparatively few; the remainder testify to the fact that London was

largely engaged in this industry. The red glazed pottery, of which

such quantity is found wherever there has been a Roman settlement, is

clearly proved to have been made in Gaul and Germany and to have been

imported. It was probably superior to the home-made ware. The designs

with which the pottery is ornamented are executed with great skill and

beauty. Mythological stories are represented, as that of Actæon and

Diana, the labours of Hercules, and Bacchanalian processions. There are

representations of flowers, fruits, and foliage, field sports, and the

contests in the amphitheatre.

Of tiles, whether for roofing, for bonding, for the hypocaust, or other

purposes, numbers have been dug up.

Were the windows in the houses of London glazed? Lactantius shows

clearly that in his time there were glass windows. “Verius et

manifestius est mentem esse quae per oculos ea, quae sunt opposita,

transpiciat quasi per fenestras lucente vitro aut speculari lapide

obductas.” And Seneca, much earlier, speaks of chambers covered

with glass. In Pompeii both glass and the _lapis specularis_ of

Lactantius have been found in their window-frames. This should be

quite conclusive. The enormous convenience of a window which would

admit light and keep out the cold, especially in such a climate as

ours, and the fact that in Italy such windows were in common use,

are enough to show that these windows were used, because all the

luxuries and conveniences of Rome were introduced here, if not by the

natives, at least by the Roman officials. Pieces of glass, flat and

semi-transparent, of a greenish hue, have been found in excavations,

and are considered to be window glass. Indeed it would seem absolutely

impossible to live in anything but a hut with a fire in the middle and

an open door at the side without some such contrivance. There are many

days in the year when it is impossible to work in the open air or in

rooms exposed to the outer air. As soon as a house was constructed the

glazed window—glazed with horn, or glass, or talc—must have followed.

Of coins a very large number have been dug up in excavations. These

have been classified and described by Mr. C. Roach Smith in his book on

Roman London.

FOOTNOTES

[19] In _Archæologia_, vol. xl., Mr. W. H. Black argues that not the

east side of Walbrook, but the west, was the site of the first Roman

settlement. His argument is based principally upon the fact that the

western side offered the greater safety, having three sides protected

by water, while the fourth side was protected by a moor. Yet the

eastern side had the protection of the Walbrook and the Thames on the

west and south, the moor on the north, and the broad stream of the Lea

running through a vast morass on the east.

[20] See _London and Middlesex Archæological Society_, vol. v. p. 295.

CHAPTER V

THE BUILDING OF THE WALL

The most important of all the Roman remains in London are the ruins of

the wall.

Under the protection of the Citadel the merchants first conducted their

business; under its shadow the ships lay moored in the river, the bales

lay on the quays, and the houses of the people, planted at first along

the banks of the Walbrook, stretched out northwards to the moor and

westwards as far as the river Fleet.

Then came the City wall.

It is strange that nothing should be said anywhere about so strong and

important a piece of work as the wall. When was it built, and by whom?

When was it destroyed, and by whom? Was it standing when the Saxons

began their occupation? It appears not.

My theory is this:—According to the opinion of Sir William Tite, which

now seems generally accepted (_Archæologia_, vol. xxxiii.), the wall

of London—not the Citadel wall—was built somewhere about the year 360

A.D. There is no record of the building; yet it was a great

and costly work. The date of the building is of some importance,

because the wall itself was a sign of weakness. There was no need of

such a wall in the second or third centuries: the Citadel and the

power of the Roman name were enough. In the next century—a period of

decay—this assistance failed, the inhabitants ceased to rely on the

Roman name. Then they looked around. Augusta was a very large City; it

had become rich; it was full of treasure; for want of a wall it might

be taken at a rush. Moreover, not only was the Roman arm weakened, but

the position of the City was far less secure than formerly. Of old the

approaches were mere tracks through forest and over moor; now they were

splendid roads. It was by means of these roads, constructed for the use

of the legions, that the Picts and Scots were able to descend into the

very heart of the country, even within a day or two of London; it was

by these roads that the pirates from the east, landing in Essex, would

some day swoop down upon the City. At the date suggested by Sir William

Tite there was, one can see plainly, insecurity enough; though the

people, from long habit, still relied on the legions and on the Roman

peace. For nearly four hundred years, without any fighting of their

own, the citizens had been safe, and had felt themselves safe. After

the wholesale exportation of rebels from the Roman soldiery by Paulus

Catena, when the invaders of the north came every day farther south

and nearer London, it was borne in upon the citizens that the time of

safety was over, that they must now defend themselves, and that the

city of Augusta lay stretched out for a mile along the river and half a

mile inland without a wall or any defence at all.

[Illustration: ROMAN REMAINS FOUND IN A BASTION OF LONDON WALL]

After the reprisals taken by Paulus Catena in 355 and his withdrawal,

the country, nearly denuded of troops, lay open to invasion. But in

the year 369 we have seen that Theodosius found the enemy ravaging

the country round London, but they did not get in. The wall must have

existed already. It was therefore between 355 and 369 that the wall

was built. As I read history, it was built in a panic, all the people

giving their aid, just as, in 1643, when there was a scare in the City

because King Charles was reported to be marching upon it, all the

people went out to fortify the avenues and approaches. Another reason

for thinking this, apart from the general insecurity of the time, is

the very significant fact that the wall is built not only with cut and

squared stones, but with all kinds of material in fragments caught up

from every quarter.

These fragments proclaim aloud that the construction of the wall was

not a work resolved upon after careful consideration; that it was not

taken in hand with the leisure due to so important a business; that

the citizens could not wait for stone to be quarried and brought to

London for the purpose; but that the wall was resolved upon, begun, and

carried through with all the haste that such a work would allow, though

with the thoroughness and strength which the Roman traditions enjoined.

In order to get stone enough for this great wall, the people not only

sent to the quarries of Kent, whence came the “rag” and the sandstone,

and to those of Sussex, where they obtained their chalk, but they also

laid hands upon every building of stone within and without the City;

they tore down the massive walls of the Citadel, leaving only the

foundations; they used the walls and the columns and the statues of the

forum and of the temple, and of all the official buildings; they took

down the amphitheatre and used its stones; they even took the monuments

from the cemeteries and built them up into the wall.

Fragments of pillars, altars, statues, capitals, and carved work of all

kinds may be found embedded in the wall.

They took everything; and this fact is the chief reason why nothing

of the Roman occupation—save the wall itself—remained above ground in

Saxon times.

It is remarkable that the Roman walls of Sens, Dijon, Bordeaux,

Bourges, Périgueux, and Narbonne are in the same way partly constructed

of old materials, and that they contained the remains of temples,

columns, pilasters, friezes, entablatures, sepulchral monuments,

altars, and sculptures, all speaking of threatened danger, and the

hasty building of a wall for which every piece of stone in the city was

seized and used.

Attempts have been made to show that the wall was built in later times.

Cemeteries, it is stated, have been found here and there. We have

already seen that there were burials in Bow Lane, in Queen Street,

Cheapside, in Cornhill, north of Lombard Street, on St. Dunstan’s

Hill, in Camomile Street, and at St. Helen’s Church, Bishopsgate. Now

interment within the city was forbidden by law. Hence it is inferred

that the wall could not have been Roman work. The answer to this

inference is very simple. The City of London was the enclosed town or

fort on the eastern hillock; all these places of burial lie without the

wall of this Citadel—that is to say, without the town.

As for the wall, so many portions of it remained until this century, so

many fragments still remain, it is laid down with so much precision on

the older maps, and especially on those of Agas and Wyngaerde, that it

is perfectly easy to follow it along its whole course. For instance,

there were standing, a hundred years ago, in the street called London

Wall, west of All Hallows on the Wall, large portions of the wall

overlooking Finsbury Circus, with trees growing upon them—a picturesque

old ruin which it was a shame to destroy. This part of the wall is

shown, with a postern, in the 1754 edition of Stow and Strype. Indeed

that edition shows the whole course of the wall very clearly, still

standing in its entirety.

Starting from the Tower, it ran in a straight line a little west of

north-west to Aldgate; then it bent more to the west and ran in a curve

to Bishopsgate; thence nearly in a straight line west by north to St.

Giles’s Churchyard, where it turned south; at Aldersgate it ran west

again as far as a little north of Newgate, where it turned south once

more, crossed Ludgate Hill, and in ancient times reached the river a

little to the east of the Fleet, leaving a corner, formerly a swampy

bank of the Fleet, which was afterwards occupied by the Dominicans.

Fragments of the wall still exist at All Hallows Church, at St. Alphege

Churchyard, in St. Giles’s Churchyard, and at the Post Office, St.

Martin’s-le-Grand, while excavations have laid bare portions in many

other places. For instance, in the year 1852 there was uncovered, in

the corner of some building, a very large piece of the wall at Tower

Hill. By the exertions of Mr. C. Roach Smith this fragment was saved

from destruction, examined carefully and figured. A plate showing that

part of it where the ancient facing had been preserved is given in his

_Illustrations of Roman London_. “Upon the foundation was placed a

set-off row of large square stones; upon these, four layers of smaller

stones, regularly and neatly cut; then a bonding course of three rows

of red tiles, above which are six layers of stones separated, by a

bonding course of tiles as before, from a third division of five layers

of stones; the bonding course of tiles above these is composed of two

rows of tiles; and in like manner the facing was carried to the top.

The tiles of the third row are red and yellow; and they extend through

the entire width of the wall, which is about 10 feet, the height having

been apparently 30 feet. The core of the wall is cemented together with

concrete, in which lime predominates, as is usual in Roman mortar.

Pounded tile is also used in the mortar which cements the facing.

This gives it that peculiar red hue which led FitzStephen to imagine

the cement of the foundations of the Tower to have been tempered with

the blood of beasts.” In the year 1763 there was still standing in

Houndsditch part of a Roman tower. It is figured in Roach Smith’s

_Roman London_. The drawing shows that the towers are as square as

those still to be traced at Richborough. They were built solid at the

bottom, hollow in the middle, and solid again at the top. The middle

part contained a room with loopholes for the discharge of missiles and

arrows. In the Houndsditch tower a window has taken the place of the

loophole. According to FitzStephen, the wall was strengthened by towers

at intervals. At the angles, as appears from the bastion in St. Giles’s

Churchyard, the towers were circular.

In 1857 excavations at the end of Aldermanbury laid open a remarkable

portion of the wall; it was composed of a series of blind arches

forming part of the solid masonry.

Nothing is left above ground of the Roman facing; what we see now

is the old solid core with perhaps some of the mediæval facing. The

uncovering of a large part of the wall at Aldersgate Street is thus

described (_Archæologia_, vol. lii. 609):—

“The Government having determined to erect additional buildings to the

General Post Office in St. Martin’s-le-Grand, certain steps were taken

in order to ascertain the nature of the ground on which these buildings

were to be placed. For this purpose, in the latter part of 1887, shafts

were sunk along a line from Aldersgate Street to King Edward Street,

some yards south of the old Money Order Office, and parallel to Bull

and Mouth Street, a street now swept away. In sinking these pits the

workmen came upon the Roman wall, and afterwards, as the process of

preparing the site for the new buildings proceeded, a considerable

fragment of it was unearthed running east and west, and extending from

Aldersgate Street on the one side, to King Edward Street on the other.

It was found that the line of buildings and walls forming the southern

boundary of the churchyard of St. Botolph, Aldersgate Street, was based

upon this wall, and it seems very probable that the churchyard and

church above-named partly occupy the ground filling up the original

ditch.

The portion of wall exposed, commencing near Aldersgate Street and

running westwards, can be well seen for a length of upwards of 131

feet. A considerable length of this has been carefully underpinned,

and, I am happy to say, will be preserved. The height remaining varies

very considerably, but, measuring from the original ground level, at

least eleven or twelve feet of masonry is still standing in places, not

in any regular line at the top, but much broken into by the foundations

of comparatively modern walls built upon it. Beyond the length named

but little of the wall is to be seen, and as it approaches King

Edward Street, just beneath the line of the houses in that street, on

its eastern side, were discovered the foundations of a semicircular

tower, or rather a tower semicircular in plan, with slightly prolonged

straight sides. The foundations of this tower—and nothing but

foundations remained—did not form any part of the structure of the

Roman wall, but came with a butt-joint against it. They were 5 feet 3

inches wide, and composed of rubble-work of Kentish ragstone with some

chalk, and a few fragments of old building materials bedded amongst

the rubble. The internal measurements of this tower were 17 feet 3

inches by 16 feet, and the foundation of the Roman wall was seen to

cross its base. The tower which stood on these foundations is probably

an addition to the wall in the mediæval period. It was not Roman, and

the foundations had no Roman character. Some pieces of worked stone

discovered in them showed traces of Norman mouldings, and of foliage

of the early English period. It is possible that the first tower west

of Aldersgate, seen in Agas’s map of London 1560, may be the one the

remains of which are here described.

Turning now to examine the construction of the Roman wall, it appears

that it was built in the following manner:—A trench, from 10 feet 9

inches to 11 feet wide and 6 feet deep, was dug in the natural clay

soil, the sides of the trench for a distance of 2 feet from the bottom

sloping slightly outwards. The lower part of the trench for the depth

of 2 feet was then filled in with puddled clay mixed with flints, and

the whole well rammed down. Upon this came 4 feet of rubble foundation,

lessening in some places to 2 feet, composed of masses of Kentish

ragstone, laid in mortar, the larger pieces being placed with some care

in the arrangement, so as to form a solid base for the superstructure

of the wall itself.

This wall, between 8 and 9 feet thick, as far as could be ascertained,

starts with a bonding course of three rows of tiles at the ancient

ground level, which is 6 feet 9 inches below the level of Aldersgate

Street. Above this course the body of the wall is composed throughout

its height of masses of ragstone, with now and then a fragment of

chalk bedded very roughly in mortar which has been pitched in, not

run in, sometimes with so little care as to leave occasional empty

spaces amongst the stones. The stones are often arranged in a rude

herring-bone fashion, perhaps for greater convenience in packing them

in, but the layers do not correspond in depth with the facing course.

The lowest band of tiles in the wall (at the ground level) is 8 inches

high, and consists of three rows, the bed of mortar between them being

often thicker than the tiles themselves. The vertical joints, however,

are very close. The three bands of tiles above this lowest one are

each 4½ inches high and of two rows. All these bands form bonding

courses—layers, in fact, through the entire breadth of the wall,

binding the rubble core together.

The tiles vary somewhat in size, but one perfect example which could be

measured in every direction was 1 foot by 1 foot 4 inches, and from 1

inch to 1½ inches thick. They are set with their greatest length into

the wall. Some yellowish tiles here and there form an exception to the

great mass, which is red and well burnt.

The height of the spaces of stone facing between each band of bonding

tiles is as follows:—The first space counting from the lowest band, 2

feet 4 inches; the second, 2 feet 4 inches; the third, 2 feet 5 inches;

and the fourth, 2 feet 10 inches; though these last dimensions are

somewhat doubtful, on account of the ruined condition of the upper part

of the wall. Each of these spaces, with the exception of the ruined

topmost one, of which little can be made out, is divided into five rows

of facing stones, in regular rows, all apparently much the same height,

though the individual stones vary considerably in length. These stones

are very irregular in the amount of their penetration into the core of

the wall, and there is nothing resembling the method adopted in working

the facing stones of the wall of Hadrian, where each stone is cut to

a long wedge shape and set with the pointer end into the wall. On the

face the stones average from 4 to 5 inches in height, laid in a mortar

bed of another inch or more in depth, and their average depth into

the wall may be about 9 or 10 inches. They therefore form a mere skin

between the tile bonding courses to the thick irregular rubble core.

The stones have been brought to a clean face by splitting off their

rough surface by the process known as pitching, and have been roughly

squared in bed and joints with a hammer. The mortar employed seems to

have nothing unusual in its composition. The mortar in which pounded

tile forms so large an ingredient is not to be found here.”

In preparing for the new buildings erected, in the summer of 1857, on

the north side of the gaol of Newgate, in the Old Bailey, and very near

to the site of the City gate which gave its name to the prison, the

ground was excavated to a considerable depth, and thus the foundation

of the City wall was cut through, and many vestiges of old London were

discovered. Among these, Mr. G. R. Corner, F.S.A., obtained a fragment

of a mortarium, with the potter’s mark very clearly and distinctly

impressed on the rim, but the words singularly disposed within a

twisted border.

It is remarkable that a similar fragment, bearing the same mark, was

also found in Newgate Street, on the 23rd October 1835, and is now

preserved in Mr. Charles Roach Smith’s Museum of London Antiquities at

the British Museum.

During the 1857 excavations, abundance of Roman bond-tiles and building

materials appeared in and about the City wall; and Mr. Corner observed

under a stratum of pounded brick, which was the foundation of a coarse

pavement, a layer of burnt wood, the evident remains of a fire during,

or previous, to the Roman period. Many feet higher was a similar layer

of wood-ashes, produced by the Fire of 1666, or some similar occurrence

in later times.

The following letter to Sir Christopher Wren from J. Woodward (June

23, 1707) gives a detailed account of certain excavations in Camomile

Street:—

“In April last, upon the pulling down some old Houses, adjoining to

Bishops-Gate, in Camomile Street, in order to the building there

anew, and digging, to make Cellars, about four Foot under Ground, was

discovered a Pavement, consisting of Diced bricks, the most red, but

some few black, and others yellow; of nearly of a size, and very small,

hardly any exceeding an inch in thickness. The extent of the Pavement

in length was uncertain; it running from Bishopsgate for sixty feet,

quite under the Foundation of some houses not yet pulled down. Its

Breadth was about ten Feet; terminating on that side at the distance of

three feet and a half from the City wall.

Sinking downwards, under the Pavement, only rubbish occurred for about

two foot; and then the workmen came to a Stratum of Clay; in which,

at the Depth of two feet more, they found several urns. Some of them

were become so tender and rotten that they easily crumbled and fell to

pieces. As to those that had the Fortune better to escape the injuries

of Time, and the Strokes of the Workmen that rais’d the Earth, they

were of different Forms; but all of very handsome make and contrivance;

as indeed most of the Roman Vessels we find ever are. Which is but one

of the many instances that are at this day extant of the art of that

people; of the great exactness of their genius, and happiness of their

fancy. These Urns were of various sizes; the largest capable of holding

full three gallons, the least somewhat above a Quart. All of these had,

in them, ashes, and Cinders of burned Bones.

Along with the urns were found various other earthen Vessels: as a

Simpulum, a Patera of very fine red earth, and a blewish Glass Viol of

that sort that is commonly call’d a Lachrimatory. These were all broke

by the Carelessness of the Workmen. There were likewise found several

Beads, one or two Copper Rings; a Fibula of the same Metall, but much

impaired and decayed; as also a Coin of Antoninus Pius, exhibiting on

one side, the Head of that Emperor, with a radiated Crown on, and this

inscription, ANTONINUS AVG ... IMP. XVI. On the reverse was

the Figure of a Woman, sitting, and holding in her right hand a Patera;

in her left an hastapura. The inscription on this side was wholly

obliterated and gone.

At about the same depth with the things before mentioned but nearer to

the City Wall, and without the Verge of the Pavement, was digg’d up an

Human Skull, with several Bones, that were whole, and had not passed

the Fire, as those in the Urns had. Mr. Stow makes mention of Bones

found in like manner not far off this place, and likewise of Urns with

Ashes in them; as do also Mr. Weever after him, and Mr. Camden.

The City Wall being, upon this occasion, to make way for these new

buildings, broke up and beat to pieces, from Bishopsgate onwards, S. so

far as they extend, an opportunity was given of observing the Fabrick

and Composition of it. From the foundation, which lay eight Foot below

the present surface, quite up to the Top, which was, in all, near Ten

Foot, ’twas compil’d alternately of Layers of broad flat bricks; and

of Rag Stone. The bricks lay in double ranges; and, each brick being

but one inch and three-tenths in thickness, the whole layer, with the

Mortar interpos’d, exceeded not three inches. The Layers of Stone were

not quite two feet thick, of our measure. ’Tis probable they were

intended for two of the Roman, their rule being somewhat shorter than

ours. To this height the workmanship was after the Roman manner; and

these were the Remains of the antient wall, supposed to be built by

Constantine the Great. In this ’twas very observable that the Mortar

was, as usually in the Roman Works, so very firm and hard, that the

stone itself is easily broke, and gave way, as that. ’Twas thus far,

from the Foundation upwards, nine Foot in Thickness, and yet so vast a

bulk and strength had not been able to secure it from being beat down

in former Ages, and near levell’d with the Ground.

The Broad thin Bricks, above mention’d, were all of Roman make; and

of the very sort which, we learn from Pliny, were of common use among

the Romans; being in Length a Foot and half, of their Standard, and in

breadth a Foot. Measuring some of these very carefully, I found them

17 inches 4/10 in Length, 11 inches 6/10 in breadth, and 1 inch 3/10

in thickness of our Measure. This may afford some light towards the

settling and adjusting the Dimensions of the Roman Foot; and shewing

the Proportion that it bears to the English; a Thing of so great use,

that one of the most accomplished and judicious writers of the last

Century endeavour’d to compass it with a great deal of Travel and

Pains. Indeed ’tis very remarkable, that the Foot-Rule follow’d up by

the Makers of these Bricks was nearly the same with that exhibited on

the Monument of Cossutius in the Colotian Gardens at Rome, which that

admirable mathematician has, with great reason, pitched upon as the

true Roman foot. Hence likewise appears, what indeed was very probable

without this confirmation, that the standard foot in Rome was followed

in the Colonies, and Provinces, to the very remotest parts of the

Empire; and that too, quite down even to the Time of Constantine; in

case this was the wall that was built by his appointment.

The old wall having been demolished, as has been intimated above, was

afterwards repaired again, and carry’d up, of the same thickness,

to eight or nine feet in height. Or if higher, there was no more of

that work now standing. All this was apparently additional, and of

a make later than the other part underneath. That was levell’d at

top and brought to a Plane, in order to the raising this new Work

upon it. The outside, or that towards the suburbs, was faced with a

coarse sort of stone; not compil’d with any great care or skill, or

disposed into a regular method. But, on the inside, there appear’d

more marks of workmanship and Art. At the Bottom were five Layers,

compos’d of Squares of Flint, and of Free-stone, tho’ they were not

so in all parts, yet in some the squares were near equal, about five

inches in Diameter; and ranged in a Quincunx order. Over these was a

layer of brick; then of hew’n free-stone; and so alternately, brick

and stone, to the top. There were of the bricks in all, six layers,

each consisting only of a double course; except that which lay above

all, in which there were four Courses of Bricks, where the layer was

intire. These bricks were of the shape of those now in use; but much

larger; being near 11 inches in length, 5 in breadth, and somewhat

above 2½ in thickness. Of the stone there were five layers and each

of equal thickness in all parts, for its whole length. The highest,

and the lowest of these, were somewhat above a foot in thickness, the

three middle layers each five inches. So that the whole height of

this additional work was near nine foot. As to the interior parts or

the main bulk of the wall, ’twas made up of Pieces of rubble-stone;

with a few bricks, of the same sort of those us’d in the inner facing

of the wall, laid uncertainly, as they happen’d to come to hand, and

not in any stated method. There was not one of the broad thin Roman

bricks, mentioned above, in all this part; nor was the mortar here near

so hard as in that below. But, from the description, it may easily

be recollected that this part, when first made, and intire, with so

various and orderly a disposition of the Materials, Flint, Stone,

Bricks, could not but carry a very elegant and handsome aspect. Whether

this was done at the expense of the Barons, in the reign of K. John; or

of the Citizens in the reign of K. Henry III.; or of K. Richard II.;

or at what other time, I cannot take upon me to ascertain from accounts

so defective and obscure, as are those which at this day remain of this

affair. Upon the additional work, now described, was raised a wall

wholly of brick; only that it terminating in battlements, these are

top’d with Copings of Stone. ’Tis two feet four inches in thickness and

somewhat above eight feet in height. The bricks of this are of the same

Moduls, and size, with those of the Part underneath. How long they had

been in use is uncertain. But there can be no doubt but this is the

wall that was built in the year 1477 in the reign of King Edward IV.

Mr. Stow informs us that that was compil’d of bricks made of clay got

in Moorfields; and mentions two Coats of Arms fixt in it near Moorgate;

one of which is extant to this day, tho’ the stone, whereon it was

ingrav’d, be somewhat worn and defaced. Bishopsgate itself was built

two years after this wall, in the form it still retains. The workmen

lately employed there sunk considerably lower than the Foundations of

this Gate; and, by that means, learned they lay not so deep as those of

the old Roman Wall by four or five feet.”

“A portion of the ancient wall of London was discovered in Cooper’s

Row, Crutched Friars, while preparing for the erection of a warehouse

there. The length of this piece of wall is 106 feet 6 inches. The

lower part is Roman, and the upper part mediæval. The latter consists

of rubble, chalk, and flints, and is 17 feet 4 inches high to the

foot face, which is 2 feet wide, and has a parapet or breast wall 5

feet high and 2 feet thick. It is much defaced by holes cut for the

insertion of timbers of modern buildings, and is cased in parts with

brickwork. On the west side are two semicircular arched recesses. This

mediæval wall is set back and battered at the lower part on both sides,

until it reaches the thickness of the Roman wall on which it is built.

The Roman wall remains in its primitive state to a depth of 5 feet 7

inches, and in this part is faced with Kentish rag in courses, and has

two double rows of tiles. The first course is 2 feet 8 inches from the

top, and 4 inches thick. The second is 2 feet 2½ inches lower down,

and 4½ inches thick. The tiles are from 1¼ inches to 1¾ inches thick,

and of the size called _sesquipedales_, viz., a Roman foot wide, and

1½ feet long. They are laid, some lengthwise and others crosswise, as

headers and stretchers. At the level of the upper course of tiles is

a set-off of half a Roman foot. Below the second course the wall is

cased with brickwork forming a modern vault, but at the foot of the

brick casing a double row of Roman tiles is again visible 3 feet 9½

inches below the last-mentioned course, and these two courses are 4½

inches thick. These tiles come out to the face of the modern brickwork,

which is about 5 inches in advance of the wall above it, so that there

would seem to be a second set-off in the wall. One course of ragstone

facing is seen below these tile-courses, but the excavation has not

yet reached the foundation of the wall. The total height of Roman wall

discovered is 10 feet 3 inches. The upper part of the Roman wall is 8

or 9 feet thick.” (_L. and M. Arch._ vol. iii. p. 52.)

[Illustration: ROMAN ARCH, LONDON WALL

From _Archæologia_, vol. xxix.]

In the autumn of 1874 were discovered the foundations of an old wall

supposed to be those of the Roman wall. These remains were examined by

Mr. J. E. Price, F.S.A., who thus described them:—

“The excavations were situate at the western end of Newgate Street, at

the corner adjoining Giltspur Street, and at but a short distance from

the site of the old ‘Compter,’ removed a few years since. The remains

were first observed in clearing away the cellars of the houses which

separated this building from Newgate Street and covered a considerable

area. They were on the north side of the street, and appeared at a

short distance from the surface. The City wall ran behind the houses,

forming at this point an angle, whence it branched off beneath Christ’s

Hospital in the direction of Aldersgate. Adjoining the wall was a

long arched vault or passage, and upon the City side of this, a well,

approached by a doorway leading to a flight of perhaps a dozen steps.

This staircase was arched over, being covered by what is technically

termed a bonnet arch. In addition, there were walls and cross walls

several feet in thickness, all extremely massive, and with foundations

of great strength and durability. These walls were chiefly composed

of ragstone, oolite, chalk, and firestone, with an occasional brick

or tile, and the vaulted passage of two rings of stonework formed by

squared blocks of large dimensions. The width of the passage was from

7 to 8 feet, the stones composing the arch measuring from 2 to 3 feet

wide, and nearly 2 feet high. The side walls of the passage were faced

with carefully squared blocks laid in little, if any, mortar, and of

immense size, some of them being from 4 to 5 feet long by 2 in height,

and all such as would be selected in the construction of a building

devoted to uses requiring more than ordinary strength. At the junction

of the passage with the external wall, the outer facing of the arch

was visible; it had been carefully worked, and upon it appeared a

hollow chamfer of a decided mediæval type, a circumstance which alone

strongly militates against the Roman theory. The mortar also was such

as may be usually found in mediæval buildings, but presented none of

the characteristics either of Roman mortar or Roman concrete. Nor were

there any such unmistakable substances found attached to the tiles, the

rubble, or the stonework which made up the section of the City wall.

Roman mortar is not easily mistaken; so hard and so durable is it that

it is frequently easier to break the stones themselves than the cement

which holds them together. In the Roman walls found at the erection of

the Cannon Street Railway Station, so solid was the masonry that it was

with the greatest difficulty that sufficient could be removed for the

introduction of the new brickwork, and much of that enormous building

rests upon foundations such as no modern architect could improve.”

(_Arch._ vol. v. pp. 404-405.)

Mr. Price concluded that the foundations thus disclosed were not

Roman at all, but of much later date. He thought that they were the

foundations of a gate and gaol erected after the Conquest. His view

appears to be well founded. And yet the foundations may have been on

the site of the Roman wall. He seems to have supposed that the Roman

wall did not extend so far west and north, on account of the great

area enclosed. But he does not state at what period this great area

could have been more fitly enclosed. If we consider that a large part

of the City consisted of gardens and villas, there is a reason for

the enclosure; while the argument that the wall could not have been

defended throughout its length is also met by the fact that it could

not be easily attacked because of its length; that the scientific

methods of sieges were not invented till much later; that in order

to meet them the moat was constructed; and that the wall alone was

sufficient for the assailants its builders had in view when it was

first erected.

I must reserve the consideration of the mediæval gates for a later

time. Meanwhile, it must be noted that neither the Bishopsgate nor

Newgate of the later period stood upon the original Roman site.

The Roman foundations of Bishopsgate have been discovered in Camomile

Street, south-east of the later Bishopsgate; and those of the old gate

of Watling Street have been found north of the later Newgate.

There were fifteen bastions, according to Maitland. Of these there

are shown on the maps three between the Tower and Aldgate, one at

Cripplegate, two in Monkwell Street, one at Christ’s Hospital, and

another near the corner of Giltspur Street, 100 feet from Newgate.

On the occasion of a fire at Ludgate in 1792, portions of an ancient

watch-tower were discovered.

Briefly, therefore, fragments of the wall can be seen on Tower Hill,

where there is a splendid piece 250 feet long; at All Hallows on the

Wall, where a part was taken down about 1800 in the street called

London Wall; at St. Alphege Churchyard, at Cripplegate, and in the

Old Bailey. Add to these the discoveries in Camomile Street in 1874,

those in Bull and Mouth Street, in Giltspur Street, north of Christ’s

Hospital, south of Ludgate, and the foundations in Thames Street.

Between Blackfriars and the Tower ran the old river-side wall. This had

been pulled down before the reign of Henry II., but the foundations

remain to this day, and have been uncovered in one place at least. The

wall ran along the middle of Thames Street. The portion discovered was

at the angle where the wall met the river at the foot of Lambeth Hill.

It was when works connected with the sewage were being executed that

the wall was found nine feet below the surface.

Mr. C. Roach Smith thus describes the finding of the river wall:—

“The workmen employed in excavating for sewerage in Upper Thames

Street advanced without impediment from Blackfriars to the foot of

Lambeth Hill, where they were obstructed by the remains of a wall of

extraordinary strength, which formed an angle at Lambeth Hill and

Thames Street. Upon this wall the contractor for the sewer was obliged

to excavate to the depth of about 20 feet, and the consequent labour

and delay afforded me an opportunity of examining the construction and

course of the wall. The upper part was generally met with at the depth

of about 9 feet from the level of the present street, and 6 from that

which marks the period of the great fire of London, and, as the sewer

was constructed to the depth of 20 feet, 8 feet of the wall in height

had to be removed. In thickness it measured from 8 to 10 feet. It was

built upon oaken piles, over which was laid a stratum of chalk and

stone, and upon this a course of hewn sandstones, each measuring from

3 to 4 feet by 2 and 2½ feet, cemented with the well-known compound of

quicklime, sand, and pounded tile. Upon this solid substructure was

laid the body of the wall, formed of ragstone, flint, and lime, bonded

at intervals with courses of plain and curved-edged tiles. This wall

continued with occasional breaks, where at some remote time it had been

broken down, from Lambeth Hill as far as Queenhithe. On a previous

occasion I had noticed a wall precisely similar in character in Thames

Street, opposite Queen Street.

One of the most remarkable features of this southern wall remains to be

described. Many of the large stones which formed the lower part were

sculptured and ornamented with mouldings denoting their use in the

friezes or entablatures of edifices at some period antecedent to the

construction of the wall. Fragments of sculptured marble, which had

also decorated buildings, and part of the foliage and trellis-work of

an altar or tomb, of good workmanship, had also been used as building

materials. In this respect the wall resembles many of those of the

ancient towns on the Continent, which were partly built out of the

ruins of public edifices, of broken altars, sepulchral monuments, and

such materials, proving their comparatively late origin, and showing

that even the ancients did not at all times respect the memorials of

their ancestors and predecessors, and that our modern vandalism sprang

from an old stock.” (_Illustrations of Roman London._)

On the reclaiming of the foreshore I have already (p. 105) given Sir

William Tite’s evidence. I here return to the subject, which is closely

connected with the river-side wall. Behind the river wall the gentle

slope continued until the ground rose from 26 feet above the river

to 50 feet. Now, if the theory which considers the dedicating of the

churches here shows the extreme antiquity of the town is correct, this

ought to have been the most densely populated part of the City in the

fourth century. I do not know why it should have been so. The ports

of Roman London were, as I have already advanced, two—Walbrook and

Billingsgate: the first a natural port; the second an artificial port

constructed for convenience close to Bridge Gate. There was no port

along the south front of London between the Fleet and the Walbrook;

there was no reason why this part should have been crowded. The wall

was not built on the edge of the cliff (if there were a cliff) for very

good reasons; the slope, more likely, was levelled for a space on both

sides the wall. When, for instance, in King John’s reign, the town

ditch was constructed, a ledge of 10 feet was left between the foot of

the wall and the beginning of the slope of the moat. The same rule must

have been observed in the construction of this wall.

This wall was constructed as far as Walbrook, where the stream and

the banks were 230 feet wide. Here was the earliest port of London.

What happened next is matter of conjecture, but it seems quite certain

that the wall would end with a round bastion or tower protecting the

entrance; that the mouth of the port was further protected by a stout

chain capable of resisting the strongest ships; that within, on the

banks of the stream, were many quays with vessels moored alongside;

that on the opposite bank stood the west side of the Citadel, with its

gate, whence, perhaps, we get the name of Dowgate.

The south wall of the Citadel, which extended as far as Mincing Lane,

served as the river-side wall for that distance. It was continued

from that point to the present site of the Tower—a distance of 450

yards—with a new wall. No remains, I believe, have yet been found of

that last piece of work. Between the old river wall and the river is

now a long and narrow strip of land of varying breadths, but generally

300 feet. It contains a series of parallel streets, narrow and short,

running down to the water; these streets are now lined with tall

warehouses, except in one or two places, where they still contain small

houses for the residence of boatmen, lightermen, porters, and servants.

The history of this strip of land is very curious. Remark that when

the wall was built the whole foreshore lay below it without any quays

or buildings on piles—a slope of grass above a stretch of mud at low

water. The first port of London was Walbrook. Within the stream ships

were moored and quays were built for the reception of the cargoes.

During the Roman occupation there were no water-gates, no quays, and no

ports west of Walbrook.

[Illustration: A SHIP

From Tib. MS., B. v.]

The Roman name of the second port, which was later called Billingsgate,

is not known. Observe, however, that there was no necessity for a break

in the wall at this place, because the port was only a few yards east

of the first London Bridge with its bridge gate in the wall of the

Citadel. A quay, then, was constructed on the foreshore between the

port and the bridge. Everything, therefore, unloaded upon this quay was

carried up to the head of the bridge, and through the bridge gate into

London.

Later on, when the third port was constructed at Queenhithe, the

builders must have made an opening in the wall. Now, at Walbrook,

at Billingsgate, and at Queenhithe the same process went on. The

people redeemed the foreshore under the wall by constructing quays and

wharves; they carried this process farther out into the bed of the

river, and they extended it east and west. At last, before the river

wall was taken down as useless and cumbersome, the whole of this narrow

strip, a mile long and 300 feet broad, had been reclaimed, and was

filled with warehouses and thickly populated by the people of the port,

watermen, stevedores, lightermen, boat-builders, makers of ships’ gear,

sails, cordage, etc., with the eating-houses and taverns necessary for

their wants.

This process, first of building upon piles, then of forming an

embankment, was illustrated by the excavations conducted for the

construction of London Bridge in 1825-35. There were found, one behind

the other, three such lines of piles forming embankments. The earliest

of these was at the south end of Crooked Lane; the second was 60 feet

south of the first; the third was 200 feet farther south.

The sixteenth-century maps of London may also be consulted for the

manner in which the quays were built out upon piles. It is obvious that

more and more space would be required, and that it would become more

and more necessary to conduct the business of loading and unloading at

any time, regardless of tide.

These considerations strengthen the evidence of Sir William Tite and

his opinion that the whole of the streets south of Thames Street must

have been reclaimed from the foreshore of the bank by this process of

building quays and creating water-gates for the convenience of trade.

The destruction of the wall, which had vanished so early as the twelfth

century, is thus easily accounted for. Its purpose was gone. The long

lines of quays and warehouses were themselves a sufficient protection.

The people pulled down bits of it for their own convenience, and

without interference; they ran passages through it and built against

it.

CHAPTER VI

LONDON BRIDGE

We come next to the consideration of the bridge. It is not a little

remarkable that of the three great buildings belonging to Roman

London—Citadel, Wall, and Bridge—not one should be so much as

mentioned, save incidentally. One would think that the building of

a bridge across a broad tidal river was an engineering feat worthy

of admiration and of record. It was not so; we merely discover that

a bridge existed; we are not told when it was erected, or what kind

of bridge it was. Although it is certain that the people of southern

Britannia possessed many arts and carried on commerce and lived with

some show of civilisation—“people,” it has been remarked, “who possess

mints and coin money do not live in huts of wattle and daub,”—yet

there is nothing to show that they could build bridges. The Romans

could and did. The names of stations in Britain show that they bridged

many rivers—Pontes, Ad Pontium, Tripontium, Pons Ælii, for instance.

The date of the construction of the first bridge across the Thames is

nowhere recorded. We have seen that it has been hastily conjectured

from a passage in Dion Cassius that a bridge existed over the Thames at

the time of the invasion of Aulus Plautius.

We have already considered this passage. It may be permitted in

addition to remark: (1) That the author had evidently an imperfect

acquaintance with the topography, or he would not have spoken of the

mouth of the Thames being so near London. (2) That he had heard the

country described, very justly, as marshes. (3) That the marshes

extended the whole way from Richmond to Tilbury. (4) That there could

not have been a bridge across a tidal river of sufficient breadth for

the whole of this distance. Whatever was existing in London at that

time, whether the _copia mercatorum_ mentioned by the Roman historian

was really found there, or whether there was a ferry across, it is

certain that the people frequenting London could not build bridges

except of the elementary kind made of flat stones, such as are found

over the narrow and shallow streams of Dartmoor. Guest considers

that the marshes were those of the river Lea in the east of London;

and certainly they are broad enough to bring an enemy into trouble;

and higher up the stream is narrow enough for a bridge of rude

construction. He says:—

“When the Romans came down the Watling Street to the neighbourhood

of London, they saw before them a wide expanse of marsh and

mudbank, which twice every day assumed the character of an estuary,

sufficiently large to excuse, if not to justify, the statement in

Dio, that the river there emptied itself into the ocean. No dykes

then retained the water within certain limits. One arm of the great

wash stretched northwards, up the valley of the Lea, and the other

westward, down the valley of the Thames. The individual character of

the rivers was lost; the Romans saw only one sheet of water before

them, and they gave it the name of the river which mainly contributed

to form it. When they stated that they crossed the Thames, they merely

meant that they crossed the northern arm of the great lake which

spread out its waters before them, and on either hand.”

There are, however, certain considerations which point in a different

direction. We have already seen that the chief highway of traffic, the

only communication between the north and the south, lay along what was

afterwards Watling Street; that it passed down the Edgware Road, along

Park Lane, stopping short of the marsh which covered the Green Park

as far as Thorney Island; that a ford, perhaps left uncovered at low

tide, led over the marsh to the island; that on the other side of the

island (which is Westminster) there was another ford across the river

to the renewal of the road—at Stangate—on the south side. Formerly

this was part of the high road; the pack-mules and the slaves crossed

every day at low tide. The water, which is now confined between two

perpendicular walls, was then distributed at high tide over the immense

marsh which begins below Richmond and extends to the coasts of Essex.

The embankment of the river for business purposes in the City and the

building of the bridge deepened and scoured the channel, so that the

ford only became available afterwards in dry seasons, though up to the

time of Queen Elizabeth it was still fordable after a drought. This

ford seems to answer all the requirements of the narrative; it is just

the place where troops, ignorant of the way, would step aside into deep

water and so fall into difficulties. It is also the place where the

army, following the road, would arrive at the river.

In considering the early history of the City, we must remember not

only the connection of Westminster with this ford, but also the great

and important fact of the trade which was carried on up and down the

road over Thorney, making the place a busy centre of traffic before

there was a Port of London at all. Whether the Port of London existed

when the Romans began their occupation has been questioned. To me it

is quite plain that it did. If there was no Port of London, then the

merchandise intended for all the country inland was taken by river to

Thorney. This much is certain, that the Romans established themselves

in a fort on the east of the Walbrook. The building of this fort could

not be undertaken until the position of the place and the navigation of

the river were well known, because all the stone must have been brought

by water. We will suppose, then, that an ordinary camp occupied this

site before the fort was built. If we now consult the map we observe

that the position, though it guarded the river, was isolated with

respect to the way of trade and to the way of war.

It was therefore imperative to acquire the means of communication with

that way. Had the Romans been unable to acquire that communication,

the Roman settlement overhanging Walbrook would never have been

built. In other words, the situation demanded a bridge, and a bridge

was built. The date of the first London bridge is that of the first

Roman occupation of London, _i.e._ the period immediately following the

massacre under Boadicea.

What kind of bridge was built? First, we must remember that to build a

bridge of stone over a broad and deep tidal estuary was a work which

had never yet been attempted anywhere in the Empire. Certainly among

the people of London there were none who would venture to attempt

so great a work, while I do not believe that the military engineers

themselves would attempt it. Next, it was a work which would certainly

take a great deal of time; later on, for instance, the first stone

bridge took thirty years to accomplish. Thirdly, it would be a costly

work.

The answer must be sought in the bridges built by the Romans in other

places about the same time. Two of these especially may be chosen. They

are (1) the bridge over the Rhine constructed by Julius Cæsar in ten

days, and (2) the Roman bridge over the same river at Mayence, of which

a model exists in the museum of that town.

There can be no doubt that this bridge at London was, to begin with,

a wooden bridge. The reasons for this conclusion are, briefly, as

follows:—

1. It was built after the rebellion of Boadicea and the massacre of

the people of London. It was intended as a military bridge connecting

the Citadel of London, built immediately after that event, with the

southern ports.

2. The construction of a stone bridge over a broad, deep, and tidal

river would have been a work involving a long time and immense

cost. Trajan’s Bridge over the Danube was built about the year 104

A.D., but the Danube is not a tidal river. There is no example

of a stone bridge over a tidal river, that I know of, belonging to this

age.

3. The engineers who formed part of the army would naturally be ordered

to build the bridge, and would do so after the manner which they had

learned and practised with other military bridges.

4. The accounts of and reference to the bridge during the next thousand

years or so clearly suggest a wooden bridge. Snorro Sturleson, the

Icelander, speaks of it as wooden and sustained by piles. The planks

which formed the mainway must have been loosely laid together with gaps

between, for a large number of Roman coins have been found in the bed

of the river below; these had apparently rolled through. The bridge is

reported to have been carried away or greatly damaged in 1091. It was

burned in 1136.

5. The first stone bridge of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries

took thirty years to complete. A military bridge, such as I conceive

the first London Bridge to have been, could not be allowed to remain

unfinished for years.

The course of events, as I have already suggested, was as follows:—

1. London was unprotected until after the massacre by the troops of

Boadicea.

2. The importance of the place was then apprehended, and the Roman

Citadel on the eastern hill over the Walbrook was constructed to

protect the port and the town, and contained the garrison, the

officers, and the officials.

3. The walls of the Citadel were built of stone from the Kentish

quarries. The bridge, however, was built of wood, as being convenient,

cheap, and easy of construction.

There were two models to choose from—perhaps more, but the two will

suffice.

The first of them, as stated above, was Cæsar’s bridge over the Rhine,

built in ten days.

This was a _Pons Sublicius_, supported by piles.

Two piles were driven into the bed of the river by a hammer or mallet

called a _fistuca_. They were set side by side, and in a sloping

direction, in order to withstand the force of the current. Opposite to

them were two other piles similarly driven into the bed of the river.

Each pair of piles were kept in place and strengthened by cross struts.

Cross pieces, each two feet in diameter, were laid across each pair,

and joists, for which purpose were used the trunks of trees either

roughly squared or not squared at all, were placed upon them.

The piles were further strengthened by the construction in front and

at the sides of a pier or sterling formed by smaller piles driven in

side by side. The sterling was filled with stones or rubble, and beams

were laid from one joist to another, over which were placed wattle and

reeds; the whole, covered with earth and gravel, made a roadway and

completed the bridge.

A more elaborate structure is that of which an actual portion exists in

the museum at Mayence, with a model of one of the piers.

In this bridge the sterling was constructed with piles set side by

side in lines or rows; but they were double, and between each row of

piles were placed beams of wood; transverse rows of piles crossed the

sterling, also double, and strengthened with timber laid between. The

whole was filled up with stones and rubble.

Two of the piles are preserved in the museum; they appear to be about

25 feet in length, and are sharpened at the end. At a later date, if

not at the outset, stones were laid upon the sterling. If this method

was adopted for the first London Bridge, the supporting piles rose out

of the opposite angles of the sterling, after which Cæsar’s method was

followed.

The reason why no mention is made of the construction of the bridge

is, first, that no history mentions any buildings in Roman London;

and next, that the Citadel and the bridge were built by soldiers

quietly, without the counsel or the consent of the citizens, if

there were any—if, that is, the _copia mercatorum_ really existed.

In a few days, or a few weeks, the Thames was spanned by a bridge

which would be repaired, burned, repaired again, and so continue for

twelve hundred years to come. The first bridge was about the same

length as the second, viz. 626 feet long. It was not nearly so high,

however. Its breadth was 40 feet. We may be certain that this was the

breadth, because it was the breadth of Cæsar’s bridge, _i.e._ the most

convenient breadth for the passage of troops; and secondly, because

that was the breadth of the second bridge, built by one of those

Fratres Pontifices, who usually made their bridges narrow, like those

of Avignon and Les Saintes. Peter of Colechurch, however, would not

build his stone bridge of a less convenient breadth than that of the

old wooden one. The drawbridge came later, when the wall was built and

the river gate. At first the bridge was open at both ends, but was

commanded by the fort overhanging the north end.

It has been supposed that the bridge was constructed for the purpose

of traffic, and that the Watling Street was diverted just at the site

of the Marble Arch in order that the traffic might cross the bridge.

This supposition is quite unfounded; there were no wheeled vehicles

along the tracks which served for roads; all the traffic was carried by

slaves, or by pack horses and mules. To slaves, to mules, to drivers,

to merchants, a ford was part of the journey, not to be regarded as

an impediment. And besides, it was much shorter, when one had arrived

before Thorney, to cut straight across the marsh than to go along the

new road leading into London. The diversion of Watling Street and the

construction of the bridge were for military, not commercial purposes.

The Romans understood the natural advantages of their position; they

hastened to improve it by direct communication with the north and with

the south.

The building of the bridge therefore preceded the building of the wall

by some 300 years.

To sum up, the date of the bridge is also the date of the first

military settlement on the site of London. It is also the date of the

stone fort erected beside the Walbrook. After the bridge was built the

road was constructed; its modern names are Oxford Street and Holborn;

it connected London by land with the great highway of the island.

Both the road and the bridge were at first needed for purely military

purposes. When the Port of London increased in importance, when it

became easier to carry goods for export and to receive imported goods

by London than to go all the way to Dover, the caravans adopted the new

road and poured into London what they had previously taken to Dover.

But neither the new road nor the bridge was built for anything but

military purposes.

The first allusion to the bridge occurs in the _Chronicle_ under the

year A.D. 457, when the Britons, defeated at Crayford or

Creganford by the Saxons, fled for life, taking refuge in London.

Of course, if there had been no bridge, the defeated army could not

have entered London in this wild haste; in fact they would not have

attempted it.

CHAPTER VII

LONDON STONE

Besides the wall, there are two other monuments, still surviving, of

Roman London. One is “London Stone”; the other is the Roman bath in the

Strand, which I have already mentioned (p. 98).

There does not appear to be any exact account of the stone as it was

before the fire which so grievously diminished it. Strype says that it

was much worn away, only a stump remaining. What is left is nothing but

a fragment. There was formerly, however, a large foundation. It stood

on the south side of Cannon Street, from which point all the mileage of

the roads was measured. In the romance of Sir Bevis of Hampton there is

a great battle in the streets of London:—

“So many men were now seen dead.

For the water of the Thames for blood ran red:

From St. Mary Bow to London Stone.”

The first Mayor of London, Henry FitzAylwin, lived in a house on the

north side of St. Swithin’s, and was called Henry FitzAylwin of London

Stone.

Stow describes the stone in the following words:—

“On the south side of this high Street [Candlewick Street] near

unto the Channell is pitched upright a great stone called London

Stone, fixed in the Ground very deep, fastened with Bars of Iron,

and otherwise so strongly set, that, if cartes do runne against it

through negligence, the wheeles be broken and the stone is left

unshaken. The cause why the stone was there set, the very time when,

or other memorial hereof, is there none; but that the same hath long

continued there is manifest, namely, since, or rather before the

time of the Conquest, for in the ende of a fair written Gospel Booke

given to Christes Churche in Canterbury by Ethelstane, King of the

West Saxons, I find noted of landes or rentes in London belonging to

the said churche, whereof one parcel is described to lie neare unto

London Stone. Of later time we read that in the yeare of Christe 1135,

the first of King Stephen, a fire which began in the house of one

Ailward, neare unto London Stone, consumed all east to Aldgate, in

which fire the Priorie of the Holy Trinitie was burnt, and west to St.

Erkenwald’s shrine in Paule’s Church: and these are the eldest notes

that I read thereof. Some have said this stone was set as a marke

in the middle of the City within the wall, but in truth it standeth

farre nearer unto the river of Thames than to the Wall of the City.”

(Strype’s _Stow_, vol. i. bk. ii. chap. xiii.)

James Howell (_Londinopolis_, p. 4, 1657) adopts Camden’s opinion:

“London Stone I take to be a Mile mark or Milliary such as was in the

market place at Rome from which were taken dimensions of all Journies

every way considering it is near the midst as it lyeth in length.”

Wren thought that the stone originally belonged to some considerable

monument in the Forum, for in the adjoining ground on the south side

were discovered tessellated pavements and other extensive remains of

Roman workmanship and buildings while men were digging for cellars

after the fire. On this point Mr. Price pertinently reminds us that the

Miliarium Aureum at Constantinople was not in the form of a pillar,

as at Rome, but a fine building, under whose roof stood statues of

Constantine, Helena, Trajan, Hadrian, and many other figures.

And Maitland says that some people held the stone to be significant of

the City, devotion to Christ, and of His care and protection of the

City, and quotes certain rhymes of Fabian (vol. ii. bk. ii. p. 1047):—

“It is so sure a Stone

That that is upon sette,

For though some have it thrette

With Manases grym and grete,

Yet Hurte had it none.

Cryst is the very Stone

That the Citie is set upon

Which from all hys Foone

Hath ever preservyd yt.”

CHAPTER VIII

THE DESOLATION OF THE CITY

We now come to the period about which, so far as London is concerned,

there are no historians and there is no tradition. Yet what happened

may be read with certainty. The Roman legions were at last withdrawn.

Britain was left to defend herself. She had to defend herself against

the Saxon pirates in the east; against the Picts and Scots in the

north; and against the wild tribes of the mountains in the west.

Happily we have not in these pages to attempt the history of the two

centuries of continual battle and struggle which followed before the

English conquest brought at last a time of rest and partial peace. But

we must ascertain, if we can, how London fared during the long interval.

Let us take the evidence (I.) of History; (II.) of Excavation; (III.)

of Site; (IV.) of Tradition.

I. Of History.

For more than 200 years London is mentioned once, and once only, by any

history of the time. The reference is in the _Anglo-Saxon Chronicle_.

“This year”—A.D. 457—“Hengist and Æsc his son fought against

the Britons at the place called Cregan Ford, and there slew four

thousand men; and the Britons then forsook Kent and in great terror

fled to London.” They sought safety beyond the bridge and within the

walls.

Otherwise there is a dead silence in the Chronicle about London. We

hear about this place and that place being attacked and destroyed, but

not London. Now, had there been any great battle followed by such a

slaughter as that of Anderida, it must certainly have been mentioned.

There never was any such battle. London decayed, melted away, was

starved into solitude, but not into submission.

London was founded as a commercial port. We have seen that at first the

trade of the country passed to the south over Thorney Island; but that,

after the convenience of London had been discovered, it went to London.

As a trading centre London was founded, and as a trading centre it

continued. The people were always as they are now, traders. It was not

the military capital; it was not, until late in the Roman occupation,

the head-quarters of the civil administration. It flourished or it

decayed, consequently, with the prosperity or the decline of trade.

The Saxons did not love walled cities; the defence of so long a

wall—nearly three miles round—required a much larger army than the East

Saxons could ever raise. And as yet the Saxons had not learned to

trade. Besides, they loved open fields; walls they thought were put

up for purposes of magic. “Fly! Fly! Avoid the place lest some wizard

still lingering among the ruins should arise and exercise his spells.

Back to the freedom and the open expanse of the fields!” Therefore,

when the people of London went out and gradually disappeared, the

Saxons were not moved to take their places.

If they came within sight of the grey walls of London they felt no

inclination to enter; if out of curiosity they did enter, they speedily

left the silent streets and ruined houses to the evil spirits and

witches who lurked among them. The empty warehouses, the deserted

quays, the wrecked villas, the fragments of the columns, seized for the

building of the wall, the roofless rooms, spoke to them of a conquered

people, but offered no inducement to settle down.

The Romano-British fleet was no more—it disappeared when the last Count

of the Saxon Shore resigned his office; the narrow seas lay open to

the pirates; the seas immediately began to swarm with pirates; the

merchantmen, therefore, had to fight their way with doubtful success.

This fact enormously increased the ordinary risks of trade.

The whole country was in continual disorder; there was no part of it

where a man might live in peace save within the walls of a city. Rich

farms were destroyed; the splendid villas were plundered and burned;

orchards and vineyards were broken down and deserted; brigands and

marauders were out on every road; wealthy families were reduced to

poverty. What concerned London in all this was that there was no more

demand for imports, and there were no more of the former exports sent

up to be shipped. The way was closed for shipping, the highroads were

closed, no more exports arrived, no more imports were wanted, trade

therefore was dead.

II. The evidence of Excavation.

The whole of Roman London is lost, except for the foundations, some

of which still lie underground. All the churches, temples, theatres,

official buildings, palaces, and villas are all gone. They were lost

when the Saxons took possession of the town. The names of the streets

are gone—their very tradition has perished. The course of the streets

is lost and forgotten. This fact alone proves beyond a doubt that

the occupation of London was not continuous.[21] The Roman gate of

Bishopsgate lay some distance to the east of the Saxon gate; the Roman

gate in Watling Street lay some distance to the north of the later

Newgate; the line of the Ermin Street did not anywhere coincide exactly

with the Roman road; the new Watling Street of the Saxons actually

crossed the old one. We may note, also, that an ancient causeway

lies under the tower of St. Mary le Bow. How can these facts be

reconciled with the theory of continuous occupation? The Saxons, again,

did not come in as conquerors and settle down among the conquered. They

cannot have done so; otherwise they would have acquired and preserved

something of Roman London. And though we should not, at this day, after

so many years and so many fires, expect to find Roman villas standing,

we should have some of the old streets with Roman or at least British

names. All that is left to us, by tradition, of Roman London is its

British name.

[Illustration: AN ANGLO-SAXON WARRIOR

Tib. MS. C. VI.]

The destruction of a deserted city advances slowly at first, but

always with acceleration. The woodwork of Roman London was carried

off to build rude huts for the fisher-folk and the few slaves who

stayed behind. They had at least their liberty, and lived on beside

the deserted shore. The gentle action of rain and frost and sunshine

contributed a never-ceasing process of disintegration; clogged

watercourses undermined the foundations; trees sprang up amid the

chambers and dropped their leaves and decayed and died; ivy pulled

down the tiles and pushed between the bricks; new vegetation raised

the level of the ground; the walls of the houses either fell or slowly

disappeared. When, after a hundred years of desolation, the Saxon

ventured to make his home within the ruined walls of the City, even

if it were only to use the site after his manner at Silchester and

Uriconium, as a place for the plough to be driven over and for the corn

to grow, there was little indeed left of the splendour of the former

Augusta.

Another argument in favour of the total desertion of London is derived

from a consideration of the houses of a Roman city. The remains of

Roman villas formed within the second and longer wall sufficiently

prove that in all respects the city of Augusta was built in the same

manner as other Roman cities; as Bordeaux, for instance, or Treves,

or Marseilles. If, then, the conquerors had occupied London in the

fifth century, they would have found, ready to their hand, hundreds of

well-built and beautiful houses. It is true that the Saxon would not

have cared for the pictures, statues, and works of art; but he would

have perceived the enormous superiority of the buildings in material

comfort over his own rude houses. It is absurd to suppose that any

people, however fierce and savage, would prefer cold to warmth in a

winter of ice and snow.

Again, it is not probable, not even possible, that in a city where such

a construction was easy, owing to the lie of the ground, the Romans

should have neglected to make a main sewer for the purpose for which

the Cloaca Maxima was made, viz. to carry off the surface rainfall

from the streets. Perhaps the Roman sewer may still be discovered. The

outfall was certainly in the foreshore, between Walbrook and Mincing

Lane; but the foreshore has long since been built upon and the sewer

closed. It is reasonable to suppose that if the Saxons had found it

they would have understood its manifold uses and would have maintained

it.

[Illustration: ANCIENT COPPER BOWL FOUND IN LOTHBURY

Roach Smith’s _Catalogue of London Antiquities_]

It has pleased the antiquary to discover on the site of the Roman fort,

or Citadel, the traces of the four broad streets at right angles which

were commonly laid down in every Roman town. Indications of their

arrangement, for instance, are still found at Dorchester, Chester,

Lincoln, and other places. The antiquary may be right in his theory,

but it must be acknowledged that the Roman streets in other parts of

London have been built over and the old ways deflected. Surely if

the Saxon occupation had taken place in the fifth century, the old

arrangement of streets would have been retained on the simple principle

that it entailed the least trouble.

Consider, next, the Roman villa. “Their general plan is that of two or

three courts open to the air, with open windows running round them, out

of which lead small rooms of various kinds—the sleeping rooms and the

women’s rooms generally being at the back, and the latter sometimes

quite separated from the rest” (Hayter Lewis, _Cities, Ancient and

Mediæval_). There is not in the accounts or pictures of any Anglo-Saxon

house that we possess any similarity whatever to the Roman villa.

If, however, the Saxon had occupied London in the fifth century, he

would certainly have adopted the Roman house with its arrangements of

separate rooms in preference to his own rude hall, in which all the

household together slept on rushes round the central fire.

Again, had the Saxon occupied London in the fifth century, he would

have found the houses provided with an apparatus for warming the rooms

with hot air, both easy and simple, not at all likely to get out of

gear, and intelligible to a child. Is it reasonable to suppose that

he would have given up this arrangement in order to continue his own

barbarous plan of making a great wasteful fire in the middle of the

hall?

And he would have found pavements in the streets. Would he have taken

them up and gone back to the primitive earth? Would he not rather

have kept them in repair for his own convenience? And he would have

found aqueducts and pipes for supplying conduits and private houses

with water. Would he have destroyed them for mere mischief? One might

mention the amphitheatre, which certainly stood outside the wall, but

according to my opinion, as I have explained, the amphitheatre was

destroyed in order to build the great wall, which was put up hurriedly

and in a time of panic.

It may be objected that in later centuries the great house became

somewhat like the Roman villa in being built round a court. The answer

is that the mediæval court was not the Roman garden with a fountain

and corridors; it was the place of exercise and drill for the castle.

Even the country house built round its little court had its windows

opening into the court, not looking out upon the country, thus showing

something of a survival of the fortress. The mediæval court, of which

so many instances are extant, belonged at first to the castle, and not

to the villa.

III. The evidence of Site.

We must return to the position of London. We have seen that at

the outset the City had in the north a wild and quaggy moor with

an impenetrable forest beyond. On the east it had a marsh and a

considerable stream flowing through that marsh; on the south a broad

tidal river, and beyond that a vast marsh stretching a long way on both

sides. On the west the City had a small stream in a marshy bed, and

rising ground, which was probably in Roman times cleared and planted.

Unlike any other town in the world, except Venice of later times,

London had not an inch of land cultivated for her own food supplies,

not a field for corn, not a meadow for hay, not an orchard or a

vineyard or anything. She was dependent from the beginning, as she is

still dependent, upon supplies brought in from the outside, except for

the fish in the river. She was supplied by means of the Roman roads; by

Watling Street and the Vicinal Road from Essex and from Kent; from the

west by the highway of the Thames, and by ships that came up the Thames.

Now if a city wholly dependent upon trade experiences a total loss of

trade, what must happen? First those who work for the merchants—the

stevedores, lightermen, boatmen, porters, carriers, warehousemen,

clerks, and accountants—are thrown out of work. They cannot be kept in

idleness for ever. They must go—whither? To join the armies.

Next, the better class, the wealthier kind, the lawyers, priests,

artists, there is no work for them. They too must go—whither? To the

camp. Finally, when gold is no longer of any use because there is

nothing to buy, the rich people themselves, with the officers of state,

look round the decaying city and see no help for it but that they too

must go. As for the slaves, they have long since broken away and fled;

there was no longer any provision in the place; they had to go.

With bleeding hearts the rich men prepared to leave the place where

they had been as luxurious as they could be in Rome itself when Rome

was still at its best and proudest. They took with them only what

each could carry. The tender girls carried household utensils, the

boys carried arms, the parents carried the household gods—it is true

that Christianity was the religion of the state, but their household

gods had been in the house for long and had always hitherto brought

good luck! Their sofas and tables, their rich plate and statues,

their libraries, and their pictures, they left behind them; for these

things could not be carried away. And so they went out through what

their conquerors would in after-time call the New Gate, and by Watling

Street, until they reached the city of Gloucester, where the girls

remained to become the mothers and grandmothers of soldiers doomed to

perish on the fields of disaster, and the boys went out to join the

army and to fight until they fell. Thus was London left desolate and

deserted. I suppose that a remnant remained, a few of the baser sort,

who, finding themselves in charge of the City, closed the gates and

then began to plunder. With the instinct of destruction they burned

the houses after they had sacked them. Then, loaded with soft beds,

cushions and pillows, and silk dresses, they sat down in their hovels.

And what they did then and how they lived, and how they dropped back

into a barbarism far worse than that from which they had sprung, we

may leave to be imagined. The point is that London was absolutely

deserted—as deserted as Baalbec or Tadmor in the wilderness,—and that

she so continued for something like a hundred and fifty years.

How was the City resettled? Some dim memory of the past doubtless

survived the long wars in the island and fifteen generations—allowing

only ten years for a short-lived generation—of pirates who swept the

seas. Merchants across the Channel learned that there were signs of

returning peace, although the former civilisation was destroyed and

everything had to be built up again. It must not be supposed, however,

that the island was ever wholly cut off from the outer world. Ships

crossed over once more, laden with such things as might tempt these

Angles and Saxons—glittering armour, swords of fine temper, helmets

and corslets. They found deserted quays and a city in ruins; perhaps

a handful of savages cowering in huts along the river-side; the

wooden bridge dilapidated, the wooden gates hanging on their hinges,

the streets overgrown; the villas destroyed, either from mischief or

for the sake of the wood. Think, if you can, of a city built almost

entirely of wood, left to itself for a hundred and fifty years, or

left with a few settlers like the Arabs in Palmyra, who would take for

fuel all the wood they could find. As for the once lovely villa, the

grass was growing over the pavement in the court; the beams of the

roof had fallen in and crushed the mosaics in the chambers; yellow

stonecrop and mosses and wild-flowers covered the low foundation

walls; the network of warming pipes stood up stark and broken round

the débris of the chambers which once they warmed. The forum, the

theatre, the amphitheatre, the residence of that _vir spectabilis_ the

_Vicarius_, were all in ruins, fallen down to the foundations. So with

the churches. So with the warehouses by the river-side. As for the

walls of the first Citadel, the Prætorium, they, as we have seen, had

long since been removed to build the new wall of the City. This wall

remained unbroken, save where here and there some of the facing stones

had fallen out, leaving the hard core exposed. The river side of it,

with its water gates and its bridge gate, remained as well as the land

side.

IV. The evidence of Tradition is negative.

Of Augusta, of Roman London, not a fragment except the wall and the

bridge remained above ground; the very streets were for the most

part obliterated; not a tradition was left; not a memory survived of

a single institution, of an Imperial office or a custom. I do not

know whether any attempt has been made to trace Roman influences and

customs in Wales, whither the new conquerors did not penetrate. Such

an inquiry remains to be made, and it would be interesting if we could

find such survivals. Perhaps, however, there are no such traces; and

we must not forget that until the departure of the Romans the wild men

of the mountains were the irreconcilable enemies of the people of the

plains. Did the Britons when they slowly retreated fall back into the

arms of their old enemies? Not always. In many cases it has been proved

that they took refuge in the woods and wild places, as in Surrey, and

Sussex, and in the Fens, until such time as they were able to live

among their conquerors.

The passing of Roman into Saxon London is a point of so much importance

that I may be excused for dwelling upon it.

I have given reasons for believing—to my own mind, for proving—that

Roman London, for a hundred years, lay desolate and deserted, save for

the humble fisher-folk. In addition to the reasons thus laid down,

let me adduce the evidence of Mr. J. R. Green. He shows that, by the

earlier conquests of the Saxon invaders, the connection of London with

the Continent and with the inland country was entirely broken off.

“The Conquest of Kent had broken its communications with the Continent;

and whatever trade might struggle from the southern coast through the

Weald had been cut off by the Conquest of Sussex. That of the Gwent

about Winchester closed the road to the south-west; while the capture

of Cunetio interrupted all communication with the valley of the Severn.

And now the occupation of Hertfordshire cut off the city from northern

and central Britain.” We must also remember that the swarms of pirates

at the mouth of the Thames cut off communication by sea. How could a

trading city survive the destruction of her trade?

[Illustration: THE ARK

From Claud MS., B. iv.]

The Saxons, when they were able to settle down at or near London,

did so outside the old Roman wall; they formed clearings and made

settlements at certain points which are now the suburbs of London. The

antiquity of Hampstead, for instance, is proved by the existence of two

charters of the tenth century (see paper by Prof. Hales, _London and

Middlesex Archæological Transactions_, vol. vi. p. 560).

I have desired in these pages not to be controversial. It is, however,

necessary to recognise the existence of some who believe that London

preserved certain Roman customs on which was founded the early

municipal constitution of London, and that there was at the same time

an undercurrent of Teutonic customs which did not become law. I beg,

therefore, to present this view ably advocated by Mr. G. L. Gomme in

the same volume (p. 528), for he is an authority whose opinion and

arguments one would not willingly ignore.

His view is as follows:—

1. He does not recognise the desertion of London.

2. He does recognise the fact that the A.S. did not occupy the walled

city.

3. That the new-comers had at first no knowledge of trade.

4. That they formed village settlements dotted all round London.

5. That the trade of London, when it revived, was not a trade in food,

but in slaves, horses, metals, etc.

6. That the villages were self-supporting communities, which neither

exported nor imported corn either to or from abroad, or to and from

each other.

One would remark on this point that while London was deserted the

villages around might very well support themselves; but with London a

large and increasing city, the villages could not possibly support its

people as well as their own. The city was provided from Essex, from

Kent, from Surrey, and from the inland counties by means of the river.

7. That everywhere in England one finds the Teutonic system.

8. That in London the Teutonic customs encountered older customs which

they could not destroy, and that these older customs were due for the

most part to Roman influence.

Observe that this theory supposes the survival of Roman merchants and

their descendants throughout the complete destruction of trade and

the desertion of the City, according to my view; or the neglect of

London and its trade for a century and more after the Saxon Conquest,

according to the views of those who do not admit the desertion. Mr.

Gomme quotes Joseph Story on the _Conflict of Laws_, where he argues

that wherever the conquerors in the fall of Rome settled themselves,

they allowed the people to preserve their municipal customs. Possibly;

but every city must present an independent case for investigation. Now,

according to my view there were no people left to preserve the memory

of the Roman municipality.

[22]9. That the A.S. introduced the village system, viz. the village

tenure, the communal lands around, the common pasture-land beyond these.

10. That the broad open spaces on the north of London could not be used

for agricultural purposes, and “they became the means of starting in

London the wide-reaching powers of economical laws which proclaim that

private ownership, not collective ownership, is the means for national

prosperity.”

11. That the proprietors who became the aldermen of wards “followed

without a break the model of the Roman citizen.”

This statement assumes, it will be seen, the whole theory of continued

occupation; that is to say, continued trade, for without their trade

the Roman citizens could not live.

12. That the existence of public lands can be proved by many instances

recorded in the _Liber Custumarum_ and elsewhere.

13. That the management of the public lands was in the hands of the

citizens.

14. That the Folkmote never wholly dominated the city; nor was it ever

recognised as the supreme council, which was in the hands of the nobles.

15. That the ancient Teutonic custom of setting up a stone as a sign

was observed in London.

16. That there are many other Teutonic customs which are not

represented in any collections of city law and customs.

17. That there are customs which may be recognised as of Roman origin,

_e.g._ the custom of the Roman lawyers meeting their clients in the

Forum. In London the sergeants-at-law met their clients in the nave of

St. Paul’s.

Surely, however, there is nothing Roman about this. There was then

no Westminster Hall; there were no Inns of Court; the lawyers must

have found some place wherein to meet their clients. What place

more suitable than the only great hall of the city, the nave of the

Cathedral?

18. That there was a time when London was supported by her agriculture

and not by her commerce.

As I said above, the settlements round London could not, certainly,

support much more than themselves; and if we consider the common lands

of the city—moorland and marsh-land with uncleared forest,—these could

certainly do little or nothing for a large population.

19. That FitzStephen speaks of arable lands and pastures as well as

gardens.

Undoubtedly he does. At the same time, we must read him with

understanding. We know perfectly well the only place where these arable

lands could exist, viz. a comparatively narrow belt on the west:

on the north was moorland till we come to the scattered hamlets in

the forest—chiefly, I am convinced, the settlements of woodcutters,

charcoal-burners, hunters, and trappers; on the south were swamps;

Westminster and its neighbourhood were swamps; the east side was

covered, save for the scattered settlements of Stepney, by a dense

forest with swamps on the south and east.

20. That the common lands of the city were alienated freely, as is

shown by the _Liber Albus_.

21. That Henry I. granted to the citizens the same right to hunt in

Middlesex as their ancestors enjoyed.

22. That this privilege “may have been drawn from the rights of the

Roman burghers.”

It _may_; but this seems no proof that it was.

23. That the “_territorium_ of Roman London determined the limits of

the wood and forest rights of Saxon and later London.”

Perhaps; but there seems no proof.

It appears to me, to sum up, that these arguments are most

inconclusive. It needed no Roman occupation to give the hunting people

the right to hunt; nor did it need a Roman occupation to make the

better sort attempt to assume the government; nor did it need the

example of Rome for the lawyers to assemble in a public place; nor,

again, need we go to Rome for the cause of the breaking up of an

archaic system which had outlived its usefulness. If there were Roman

laws or Roman customs in the early history of London—a theory which

I am not prepared to admit—we must seek for their origin, not in a

supposed survival of the Roman merchant through a century of desertion

and ruin, but in Roman books and in written Roman laws.

Neither does the theory against the desertion of London seem borne

out by the histories of Matthew of Westminster, Roger of Wendover,

Nennius, Ethelwerd, Geoffrey of Monmouth, and Henry of Huntingdon. Let

us examine into these statements, taking the latest first and working

backwards.

I. Matthew of Westminster (_circa_ 1320).

Matthew says that when the Romans finally left the island the

Archbishop of London, named Guithelin (A.D. 435), went over to

Lesser Britain, previously called Armorica, then peopled by Britons,

and implored the help of Aldrœnus, fourth successor of King Conan,

who gave them his brother Constantine and two thousand valiant men.

Accordingly, Constantine crossed over, gathered an army, defeated the

enemy, and became King of Britain. He married a lady of noble Roman

descent, by whom he had three sons: Constans, whom he made a monk at

Winchester; Aurelius and Uther Pendragon, who were educated by the

Archbishop of London—presumably, therefore, in London.

In the year 445 Constantine was murdered. Vortigern, the “Consul of

the Genvisei,” thereupon went to Winchester and took Constans from the

cloister, and crowned him with his own hands, Guithelin being dead. The

two brothers of Constans had been sent to Brittany.

Vortigern then began to compass the destruction of the King, for his

own purposes; he took the treasury into his own custody; he raised

a bodyguard for the King of 100 Picts, whom he lavishly paid and

maintained; he filled them with suspicions that if he were gone they

would lose their pay. One evening, therefore, they rose—this bodyguard

of Picts,—seized the King and beheaded him. This was in London.

Vortigern, pretending great grief, called together the citizens of

London and told them what had been done. As no one of the royal House

was at hand, he elected himself and crowned himself King.

In 447 the country was overrun by Picts and Scots; there was also a

famine followed by a pestilence. In 448 Germanus, a holy priest, led

the Britons out to fight, and gave them a splendid victory over the

enemy. But when Germanus went away the Picts and Scots came back again.

Vortigern invited the Saxons, the Angles, and the Jutes to come over

and settle. They came; Hengist led them: they defeated the Picts and

Scots: they invited more of their own people. Vortigern, who already

had a wife and children, fell in love with Rowena, daughter of Hengist,

and married her, to the disgust of the people.

[Illustration: KING AND COURTIERS

Cædman’s _Metrical Paraphrase_, Bodleian Library.]

Vortigern was deserted by the nobles, who made his son Vortimer King;

but he was poisoned in the year 460 and died in London, where he was

buried.

In 461 occurred the great slaughter of Britons by Hengist at Amesbury.

In 462, the Saxons imprisoned Vortigern until he gave up all his cities

in ransom. They seized on London, York, Winchester, and Lincoln,

destroying churches and murdering priests.

Then the Britons sent ambassadors to Brittany, entreating Aurelius and

Uther Pendragon to come over.

The Prophecy of Merlin, which is attached to the year 465, is clearly

a late production: it foretells, for instance—being wise after the

event,—that the dignity of London shall be transferred to Canterbury;

it also speaks of the gates of London, which are to be kept by a brazen

man mounted on a brazen horse.

Aurelius, with his brother Uther Pendragon, came over from Brittany;

they began by setting fire to the Citadel, in a tower of which

Vortigern was lying, and so destroyed him.

In 473, Aurelius gained a great victory over Hengist. This was

followed by other successes. The victories of Aurelius were frequent

and overwhelming. Yet the Saxons, somehow, in spite of their decisive

defeats, were strengthening and extending their hold rapidly and surely.

In 498, Aurelius died.

Uther Pendragon succeeded him and was crowned at Winchester. After

another glorious victory Uther brought his prisoners to London, where

he kept Easter exactly like a Norman king, surrounded by the nobles of

the land.

In 516, Uther Pendragon, grown old and infirm, was poisoned at Verulam.

His son Arthur succeeded him, being elected by Dubritius, Archbishop of

London, and all the bishops and nobles of the land.

In 517, Arthur went out to besiege York, but was compelled to fall back

upon London.

In 542, Arthur, after an unparalleled career of glory, died of his

wounds in Avalon, and was succeeded by his cousin Constantine, who

pursued the sons of Modred, and finding one concealed in a monastery of

London, “put him to a cruel death.”

Under the date 585, London is mentioned as then being the capital of

the kingdom of Essex.

In 586, Theonus, Archbishop of London, fled into Wales, seeing all

the churches destroyed. He took with him those of the priests who had

survived the massacres, and the sacred relics.

London, therefore, according to the story, was deserted, but not until

the year 586.

In 596, Augustine landed on the Isle of Thanet and converted many.

In 600, the Pope sent the pallium to Augustine of London.

In 604, Mellitus was consecrated Bishop of London.

The writer then proceeds with the history as we have it in other

chronicles.

II. Roger of Wendover (_d._ 1256).

A.D. 460. He says that Vortimer was buried in London.

462. Roger mentions London as one of the cities taken.

473. Roger mentions the great victory of Aurelius in Kent.

498. Roger makes the statement that Uther kept his Easter in London.

517. Arthur falls back upon London.

542. Constantine kills Modred’s son in London.

586. Flight of Theonus, Bishop of London.

It seems thus that Matthew of Westminster followed Roger of Wendover,

who died A.D. 1237, so that even he wrote of these events 650

years after the alleged flight of the Bishop.

III. Geoffrey of Monmouth.

Geoffrey of Monmouth, who died some time in the latter half of the

twelfth century—he was made Bishop of St. Asaph in 1152—provides the

materials especially for the romance of King Arthur, for the story of

King Lear, and other delightful inventions and traditions.

By Geoffrey we find it stated (1) that Vortimer was buried in London;

(2) that the Saxons took London—A.D. 462 (?); that Aurelius,

after his great victory, restored London, “which had not escaped the

fury of the enemy”; that Uther Pendragon kept his Easter in London;

that Arthur retired upon London; that Modred’s son seized upon London

and Winchester; that Theonus was Archbishop of London; that Constantine

captured one of Modred’s sons in a monastery of London; that Theonus

fled from London with the surviving clergy.

IV. Nennius.

Nennius contains none of these statements or stories, but he says that

Vortimer was buried in Lincoln.

V. Ethelwerd.

Ethelwerd says that in 457 the Britons, being defeated in a battle in

Kent, “fled to London.” He says no more about London.

VI. Henry of Huntingdon (_circa_ 1154).

He mentions the Battle of Creganford or Crayford, which, as we have

already seen (p. 135), is recorded in the _A.S. Chronicle_, with the

retreat to London. He makes no mention at all of London after that

event till after the conversion and the arrival of Mellitus. Not a

word is said about the events alleged by the later Chroniclers, while

the great achievements of Arthur are shown to have been battles fought

and victories won in the west country. Since, however, he mentions the

massacre at Anderida, is it conceivable that he would have passed over

any such event had it happened in London? And is it conceivable that,

had London continued to be a city of trade and wealth, the Saxon would

not have attacked it?

To sum up this evidence, we find that writers most nearly contemporary

make no mention of London at all for a hundred and fifty years. We find

Chroniclers six hundred years later mentioning certain events of no

importance, and agreeing in the desertion of London, which they place

about the year 586. The date signifies little, but the reference shows

that there was certainly in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries a

tradition which pointed to a period of ruin and desertion. Geoffrey of

Monmouth seems to have furnished most of the victories and great doings

of the Britons, who were so victorious that they were continually

driven back into the forests and into the mountains. When a traditional

king succeeds, or holds his court, or dies, it is natural to provide

him with a city, and there was London ready to hand. At the same time

there was the tradition that at one time London was deserted. And so

the whole matter is explained, and fits into the only working theory

which accounts for the almost complete silence of the _A.S. Chronicle_

as to the once great and glorious and wealthy city of Augusta.

FOOTNOTES:

[21] Compare for instance, the city of Jerusalem, in which, despite the

many sieges and conquests, the course of the old streets still remains.

[22] In _The Governance of London_ (1907), Mr. Gomme surrenders some

evidence which he formerly considered told in favour of Teutonic

influences in London, such as that in clauses 9 and 11; but on

the other hand he strengthens his case for Roman origins in other

directions.—ED.

BOOK III

SAXON LONDON

CHAPTER I

THE COMING OF THE SAXONS

The life of London began again somewhere about the end of the sixth

century. As London was created for purposes of trade, and as it fell

with the destruction of trade, so it was restored for purposes of

trade. The merchants from beyond the seas heard that peace, some kind

of peace, had returned to this land; the mouth of the Thames no longer

swarmed with pirates, for there was nothing left on which they could

prey. From Dover the adventurous merchantman crept timidly along the

coast—there was no enemy in sight; the skipper ventured into the narrow

channel between Thanet and the mainland—no ship was there, no sign of

pirate craft; timidly he sailed up the broad estuary of the Thames—not

a sail did he encounter. There were no ships; when the Saxon migration

exhausted itself, the Saxon forgot straightway the art of shipbuilding

and the mystery of navigation; his ships were to him like those wings

on certain insects which provide for the one flight—that achieved, the

wings drop off. During the hundred years and more, while the invasion

was becoming a conquest, the ships had rotted or been burned. Yet the

strange merchants knew not what reception they would meet. Along the

low and marshy shores of the Thames, as the estuary narrowed, there was

not a sign of human habitation—who would dwell in the marsh when he

could dwell on the land? There were no fishermen even. There were no

signs of life, other than the cry of the birds whirling overhead and

the plunging of the porpoise round the bows.

Presently they arrived at London. They knew it as London—not Augusta,

which had been its name for a few years only. There was the bridge of

which they had heard; but its planks and piles were falling into decay.

There was the sea wall, and, behind, the land wall—grey, overgrown

with wall-flowers, with that yellow flower that grows to this day only

on and beside Roman stations. The wall was strong yet, though half

in ruins. And there stood the ancient gates with their rusty hinges

and decayed woodwork. There were the ancient ports which we know as

Billingsgate and Dowgate, at the mouth of the Walbrook. There were the

quays, broken down and decaying and deserted. Where were the people

of London? There was no smoking hearth; there was no smoking altar;

there was no sound of blacksmith’s forge, or of any craft, or trade, or

business.

They moved alongside a quay—it was at Billingsgate; a couple of men

landed and the rest waited under arms.

These scouts walked about the quay, and boldly penetrated into the

town. After half an hour they returned with the news that the place was

really deserted. There was no one there, neither merchant, nor Saxon,

nor Briton.

[Illustration: A GROUP OF ANGLO-SAXON SPEARMEN

Harleian MS., 603.]

Then these traders landed their cargo and began cautiously to explore

the country round, carrying their goods for sale. They found farmsteads

dotted about, each containing one family, with its chief, its sons and

daughters, and its slaves. They went north and east as far as Ongar and

Abridge, and even beyond the great forest. The people received them

without any attempt to kill or murder them: they were interested at

least in the weapons offered for barter.

What more? Trade revived: the foreign merchants came back, the men of

Rouen, the men of Bordeaux; and some of the East Saxons themselves,

forgetting their prejudice against towns, came in to settle and took to

trade. Some of the Britons came out of their retreats in the forests

and found shelter and freedom, and perhaps wealth, in the city. London

was founded a second time.

The desertion of London, the solitude of London, the return of

the merchants, the repeopling of the place, are not described by

historians, but have been related here as they must have happened.

There seems to me to be no other way of explaining the facts of the

case.

In the beginning of the seventh century London is again mentioned. The

following is the testimony of Bede, who wrote one hundred and twenty

years after the events recorded. The main facts were most certainly

remembered, while the actual condition of London at the date would be

probably less clearly known. His words are these:—

“In the year of our Lord, 604, Augustine, Archbishop of Britain,

ordained two bishops, viz. Mellitus and Justus: Mellitus to preach

to the province of the East Saxons, who are divided from Kent by the

river Thames, and border on the Eastern Sea. Their metropolis is the

city of London, which is situated on the bank of the aforesaid river,

and is the mart of many nations resorting to it by sea and land. At

that time, Sebert, nephew to Ethelbert by his sister Ricula, reigned

over the nation, though he was under subjection to Ethelbert, who, as

has been said above, had command over all the nations of the English

as far as the river Humber. But when this province also received the

word of truth, by the preaching of Mellitus, King Ethelbert built the

church of St. Paul, in the city of London, where he and his successors

should have their episcopal see. As for Justus, Augustine ordained

him bishop in Kent, at the city which the English named Rhofescestir,

from one that was formerly the chief man of it, called Rhof. It was

almost twenty-four miles distant from the city of Canterbury to the

westward, and contains a church dedicated to St. Andrew the apostle.

King Ethelbert, who built it, bestowed many gifts on the bishops of

both those churches, as well as on that of Canterbury, adding lands and

possessions for the use of those who were with the bishops.”

And in the _Anglo-Saxon Chronicle_ we have the following brief

entry:—“A.D. 604. This year the East Saxons received the faith

and baptism under King Sebert and Bishop Mellitus.”

At this time, then, the King of Kent was the overlord of the Essex men,

who had as well their own King. And their “metropolis” was London,

where King Ethelbert built their first church—St. Paul’s. Also London

was “the mart of many nations.” This was doubtless true in the eighth

century when Bede wrote. How far was it true at the beginning of the

seventh? Some advance had been made, that is certain. For the Bishop,

London was the metropolis, the mother city. Whatever official and

central life belonged to the diocese was placed, therefore, in London.

It would be interesting, if it were possible, to trace the gradual

change in the manners and customs of the Saxons which enabled them

to live in towns. That it was very gradual we may learn from the

small number of towns in Saxon England, from the large number of

Roman-British cities left “waste,” and from the fact that not until

Alfred’s time did they begin to build or to restore the walls of their

towns. It was, however, a Saxon population that occupied London as

soon as the days of desolation were fulfilled. This is certain from

the names of the streets, which, with one doubtful exception, are

all Saxon—why the name of the river itself never became Saxon is a

fact impossible to explain. First came the merchants with the sailors

and the ships. They established themselves, as of old, along the

river, beside the ports afterwards called Billingsgate and Dowgate or

Walbrook. These ports with their quays were easily repaired by means

of piles and planks. The ships and traders came with the spring, and

in the summer the chapmen, with their caravans of pack-mules and

pack-horses, rode from one clearing to another with their wares. Then

it became convenient that some should stay all the year at the port.

The streets within the river wall began to be reconstructed and houses

rose, and the country folk, losing their dread of magic, began to drop

in and to settle among the ruins of Augusta and near their new friends

the foreign merchants.

[Illustration: GREGORY THE GREAT, ST. BENEDICT, AND ST. CUTHBERT

From St. Athelwold’s “Benedictional” (10th cent.).]

The site of the Citadel was still marked by a broad and open area; its

walls were gone—we have seen that they were used to build the City

wall; it was partly occupied by buildings then in ruins; its four

gates were all open—through them ran the road for wheeled vehicles to

London Stone, and so down to London Bridge. North of these streets,

_i.e._ north of Cannon Street, lay a great expanse of land, enclosed by

the wall, with the remains of Roman villas and the débris of streets

and houses lying scattered over it. This large area was the ancient

Augusta. A great part of it was cultivable land overgrown by trees and

bushes, wanting nothing more than the removal of foundations here and

there and the clearance of the underwood. Where there is cultivable

land there will be land-owners. Before long every acre within the wall

had its proprietor. From private property thus acquired by settlement

grew up most of the City wards; they were manors belonging to certain

families. On this subject I have spoken elsewhere. (See _Mediæval

London_, vol. ii. chapter v.) The Saxon settlement of London, according

to this view, followed the return of the foreign merchants. They

repaired the quays and restored the ports; it is probable that they

repaired the wooden bridge. They occupied that part of Thames Street

which lies round the mouth of the Walbrook and Billingsgate. The

country people, perceiving that no harm followed, despite the magic of

the walls, began to settle in the waste parts of the north within the

old walls. There they carved out estates and made farms and orchards,

and gradually filled up the whole area, and, also gradually, learned

the meaning of trade. As they filled up the area enclosed by the walls,

they absorbed the mixed population of foreign residents, craftsmen, and

the “service” of the port. This view of a gradual settlement, in the

north first, afterwards spreading south, seems partly borne out by the

broad waste places—the Room-lands and ground in the Saxon city. Thus

West Cheap, now a narrow street, was then a broad waste-land; there was

another Room-land at East Cheap on the site of the old Roman citadel;

and there were Room-lands near Billingsgate and Dowgate. That there was

also a Room-land at Newgate may be accounted for by the simple fact

that here were the shambles, and that no one cared to settle down,

build a house, and cultivate a piece of ground in a place so foul and

noisome.

[Illustration: LADY IN A CHARIOT

Prudentius MS., 24199.]

And if Bede is right in saying that London in 604 was a “mart of all

the nations,” then this Saxon occupation must have commenced fifty

years before—we can hardly suppose a period of less than fifty years

for the re-establishment of London trade; but the silence of the

_Anglo-Saxon Chronicle_ as to the restoration of London, and the

vagueness of Bede’s statement made two hundred years afterwards, forbid

us to consider the assertion that London was “the mart of all the

nations” to be accepted literally.

As for the people by whom the settlement of London was effected, they

could be no other than the East Saxons, the people of Essex. If we look

at the map, it is clear that the situation of the town invited them,

and that in a very remarkable manner it lay open to them. The river,

peculiarly their own river, for they were settled along the coast

where it rose above the marshes, conveyed them easily to the place. An

impenetrable forest covered the whole of the north, but left a way over

a high moorland, between the forest and the marsh, from the settlements

along the shore to the walls of London. There was no such way open for

the men of Mercia, of Anglia, of Kent, or of Wessex; to them there was

only the river.

To the argument from the nature of the site we must add the very

important fact that, when first we hear of London restored, the City

is under the rule of the King of Essex. It is true that the overlord

of Essex was the King of Kent. But if London had been settled by the

men of Kent, how would the King of Essex, never so strong as other

kinglets, have acquired his right of superiority?

I must, however, refer to a paper read by Mr. T. W. Shore before the

London and Middlesex Archæological Society in March 1900, in which he

contends that London was resettled from Kent. His argument is, briefly,

as follows:—

1. The natural way of outlet or extension for Kent would be up the

Thames. That Kentish men did emigrate and settle beyond their marsh is

proved by the laws of King Wihtred (A.D. 685), in which it is

laid down that Kentish men carry their laws and customs “beyond the

march.”

2. Names connected with Kent are common round London E. of Kennington,

Kensington, Kenton, Kentish Town, Kenley, Kent’s Town.

3. The Kentish custom of gavelkind, by which the estate was divided

among all the sons equally, the youngest son taking the homestead,

prevailed, and in some places lingered long in many villages and

manors round London, viz. Kentish Town, Stepney, Mile End, Hackney,

Canonbury, Newington Barrow (Highbury), Hornsey, Islington, Streatham,

Croydon, Peckham Rye, Kensington, Walworth, Vauxhall, Wandsworth,

Battersea, Lambeth, Barnes, Sheen (Richmond), Petersham, Edmonton,

Fulham, Tottenham, Ealing, Acton, and Isleworth.

[Illustration: FAMILY LIFE

Claud MS., B. iv.]

This list (the authority for which is Thomas Robinson on Gavelkind)

is long and unimportant. It becomes more important when Glanville is

quoted as saying that partible inheritance was only recognised by the

law courts when it could be proved to have been always in use. Now if

in the twelfth century the use of gavelkind could be proved customary

beyond the memory of man, the antiquity of the use on the manors is

certainly established.

London, then, was surrounded by manors under gavelkind. Further out,

the Archbishop of Canterbury had demesnes at Harrow and Hayes. In the

reign of King John he converted gavelkind fees into knights’ fees.

4. Mr. Shore also calls attention to the two claims in William’s

Charter, that all burgesses are law-worthy, and that thus every child

is to be _his_ (not _his or her_) father’s heir.

These words prove, he suggests, that there were no bondmen in London,

as there were none in Kent, and that gavelkind, the peculiar Kentish

custom, obtained in London at that time.

This view is submitted for the readers consideration. Against it we

have to set the undoubted fact, as stated above, that the King of Essex

was the Lord of London, although his overlord was the King of Kent. Had

London been settled by Kentish men, how would the King of Essex get a

footing there? Is it not much more reasonable to suppose that the City

was first settled by the men of Essex; that the King of Kent became by

battle and victory the overlord; that Kentish men naturally flocked to

the place and acquired lands, and that they brought with them their own

customs? We may thus explain the facts of the names and the Kentish

customs. As regards the clauses in the Charter, I fail to see their

importance. If there were slaves in London, they would not be accounted

burgesses, and would not be named, for slaves had no rights; and the

framers of the Charter would naturally use the word “his” rather than

“his or her.”

As to the custom of gavelkind, it is thus laid down in the

Thirteenth-Century Custumal (see Elton, _Origins of English History_):—

“‘If any tenant in gavelkind die, having inherited gavelkind lands and

tenements, let all his sons divide that heritage equally. And if there

be no male heir, let the partition be made among the females in the

same way as among brothers. And let the messuage (or homestead) also be

divided among them, but the hearth-place shall belong to the youngest

son or daughter (the others receiving an equivalent in money), and as

far as 40 feet round the hearth-place, if the size of the heritage

will allow it. And then let the eldest have the first choice of the

portions, and the others afterwards in their order.’”

“‘In like manner as to other houses which shall be found in such a

homestead, let them be equally divided among the heirs, foot by foot,

if need be, except the cover of the hearth, which remains to the

youngest, as was said before; nevertheless, let the youngest make

reasonable amends to his co-parceners for their share by the award of

good men’” (pp. 189-190).

CHAPTER II

EARLY HISTORY

Let us return to the establishment of Christianity in London. It was

in 604, as we have seen, that the East Saxons were baptized, their

king, Sebert, being the nephew of Ethelbert, King of Kent, who was his

overlord. It was Ethelbert, and not Sebert, who built St. Paul’s for

Mellitus, the first Bishop of London. Christianity, however, is not

implanted in the mind of man altogether by baptism. Mellitus was able

to leave his diocese a few years after its creation in order to attend

a synod at Rome, and to confer with the Pope on the affairs of the

Church. This looks as if his infant Church was already in a healthy

condition of stability. So long as Ethelbert lived, at least, there

was the outward appearance of conformity; but when he died, in 616,

his son Eadbald “refused to embrace the faith of Christ,” as Bede has

it. Does this mean that he had not yet been baptized? In that case

the “conversion” of the people can only mean the conversion of some

among them. Perhaps, however, the words mean that he relapsed. In the

next sentence we are told that his example was followed by many who,

“under his father, had, either for favour, or through fear of the King,

submitted to the laws of faith and chastity.” This king, Eadbald, took

to wife his father’s widow—a crime for which, as the historian tells

us, “he was troubled with frequent fits of madness, and was possessed

by an evil spirit.”

[Illustration: AELFWINE

From Cædmon’s _Metrical Paraphrase_ (10th cent.).]

However, his example was the signal for revolt. King Sebert died

and was succeeded by his three sons, “still pagans.” Therefore the

conversion of the East Saxons, at least, had not been complete. These

princes “immediately began to profess idolatry, which during their

father’s reign they had seemed a little to abandon”; they also granted

liberty to the people to serve idols. Therefore the conversion had been

by order of the King. The people, then, nothing loth, returned to their

ancient gods and their old practices.

Some, however, remained faithful, and the services of the Church were

still carried on at St. Paul’s, with sorrowful hearts.

We now chance upon a glimpse of the East Saxon mind, for the three

princes, though they were no longer Christians, desired to get what

they could for their own advantage out of the new religion. They

observed that the most important part of the Christian ritual was

the celebration of the Eucharist, in which the communicants received

each a morsel of white bread. Clearly this was magic: the white bread

was a charm: it protected those who received it from dangers of all

kinds. They therefore called upon Mellitus to give them this charm,

but without the profession of the Christian faith. In the words of

Bede, they said, “Why do you not give us also that white bread, which

you used to give to our father Saba (for so they used to call him),

and which you still continue to give to the people in the church?” To

whom he answered, “If you will be washed in that laver of salvation, in

which your father was washed, you may also partake of the holy bread,

of which he partook; but if you despise the laver of life, you may not

receive the bread of life.” They replied, “We will not enter into that

laver, because we do not know that we stand in need of it, and yet we

will eat of that bread.” And being often earnestly admonished by him,

that the same could not be done, nor any one admitted to partake of the

sacred oblation without the holy cleansing, at last they said in anger,

“If you will not comply with us in so small a matter as this, you shall

not stay in our province”; and accordingly they obliged him and his

followers to depart from their kingdom.

[Illustration: THE CORONATION OF A KING

Royal MS. 2, B. vii.]

Mellitus, thus forced to abandon his work, retired to Canterbury, where

he met Justus, Bishop of Rochester, also turned out of his diocese, and

Laurentius, Archbishop of Canterbury, who was also meditating flight.

The two former resolved on passing over to France, there to await the

event.

[Illustration: ALDHELM PRESENTING ‘DE VIRGINITATE’ TO HILDELIDA, ABBESS

OF BARKING, AND HER NUNS

From Dean Spence’s _The Church of England_ (Cassell).]

The three princes of the East Saxons, we are told, did not long survive

their apostasy. For, marching out to battle with the West Saxons,

they were all three slain and their army cut to pieces. Nevertheless,

the people of London and Essex refused to acknowledge this correction

and remained in their paganism.

The story of Eadbald’s conversion and the restoration of Christianity

to the kingdom of Kent is suspicious. It is as follows:—Laurentius,

the Archbishop, appeared before the King one day, and taking off his

shirt, showed his shoulders red and bleeding, as if with a grievous

flagellation. He told the King that he had received this “Apostolical”

scourging from St. Peter himself, as a punishment for thinking of

deserting his flock. “Why,” asked the Apostle, “wouldest thou forsake

the flock which I committed to you? To what shepherds wouldest thou

commit Christ’s sheep which are in the midst of wolves? Hast thou

forgotten my example, who, for the sake of those little ones, whom

Christ recommended to me in token of His affection, underwent, at the

hands of infidels and enemies of Christ, bonds, stripes, imprisonment,

afflictions, and, lastly, the death of the cross, that I might at last

be crowned with Him?”

King Eadbald accepted this miracle as a warning: he abjured the worship

of idols, renounced his unlawful marriage, and embraced the faith of

Christ. Laurentius, on this happy turn of events, sent for Mellitus

and Justus to return. The latter was restored to his see of Rochester;

the former, however, found his Londoners obstinate in their relapse.

Unfortunately, Eadbald, the penitent, had not the same power that his

father had enjoyed. It took nearly half a century to get Christianity

firmly established in London.

About the year 635, thirty years after their defeat by the men of

Wessex, the East Saxons returned to the faith. Their conversion was

due in the first instance to the persuasion and arguments of Oswy,

King of Northumbria, with his “friend”—as Bede calls him—his subject

King, Sigebert of the East Saxons. When these arguments had prevailed,

Sigebert, having been baptized, asked for priests to preach to his

people. Cedda, afterwards Bishop of London, undertook the task, with

such success that the whole people embraced Christianity. Again,

however, they fell away, led by Sighere, one of the two Kings of the

East Saxons. Their defection was caused by a pestilence, which was

interpreted to mean the wrath of their former gods. It was in the

year 665. The two Kings of the East Saxons were no longer “friends”

of Northumbria, but of Mercia; and the King of the Mercians sent

Jarumnan, Bishop of Lichfield, to bring the people back again. The

Bishop was aided in his efforts by Osyth, queen of the apostate

Sighere, afterwards known as St. Osyth. There was as little difficulty

in securing a return as a relapse: Essex once more became Christian,

and this time remained so. The missionary Bishop, Erkenwald, the Great

Bishop, who remained in the memory of London until the Reformation, was

the chief cause of the complete conversion of the people. He did not

rest satisfied with the baptism of kings and thanes: he went himself

among the rude and ignorant folk; he preached to the charcoal-burners

of the forest and to the rustics of the clearing; he founded Religious

Houses in the midst of the country people; he became, in life and after

death, the protector of the people. He made it impossible for the old

faith to be any longer regarded with regret. To the time of Erkenwald

belong not only St. Osyth (her name survives in Size Lane) and St.

Ethelburga, whose church is still standing beside Bishopsgate, but also

St. Botolph, to whom five churches were dedicated.

St. Osyth was the mother of Offa, whose memory is preserved by Bede. He

succeeded his father Sighere as one of the Kings of Essex, then subject

to Mercia. He accompanied Coinred, King of the Mercians, ingoing to

Rome, and in surrendering everything in order to become a monk.

Bede:—

“With him went the son of Sighere, King of the East Saxons

above-mentioned, whose name was Offa, a youth of most lovely age and

beauty, and most earnestly desired by all his nation to be their King.

He, with like devotion, quitted his wife, lands, kindred, and country,

for Christ and for the Gospel, that he might receive an hundredfold

in this life, and in the world to come life everlasting. He also,

when they came to the holy places at Rome, receiving the tonsure, and

adopting a monastic life, attained the long-wished-for sight of the

blessed apostles in heaven.” (Giles’s _Trans._ vol. iii. p. 237.)

[Illustration: KING ETHELBALD

Harl. MS., Roll Y. 6.]

His memory was preserved in London long after his death—even, indeed,

until recent times—on account of this wonderful example of piety at

first, and afterwards by the tradition which ascribed the site of St.

Alban’s Church, Wood Street, in the City, to that of the chapel of

King Offa’s palace. That tradition is gravely considered by Maitland,

who decides against it. This Offa must not be confounded with the much

greater Offa, King of the Mercians.

Documents relating to London are few in these centuries. The earliest

notice of London among those collected and published in J. M.

Kemble’s _Codex Diplomaticus Aevi Saxonici_, and in Benjamin Thorpe’s

_Diplomatarium_, dates as far back as the year 695, if it is genuine;

but it is said to be an early forgery. The document professes to be

Bishop Erkenwald’s Charter of Barking Abbey. Reciting the lands given

to the Abbey, it says, “Sexta juxta Lundoniam unius manentis data a

Uulfhario rege. Septima supra vicum Lundoniae data Quoenguyda uxore.”

What street is here intended? There is a deed by which Ethelbald, King

of the Mercians, gives to Aldwulf, Bishop of Rochester, the right of

sending one ship to the port of London without paying taxes or dues. It

is dated 734.

In 734, King Ethelbald grants to the Bishop of Rochester leave to pass

one ship without toll into the Port of London. In another charter the

same King speaks of “Lundon tune’s hythe.” King Canulf of Mercia speaks

of a Witenagemot in London—“loco praeclaro oppidoque regale.” In 833

there was another Council held in London by Egbert, presumably after

his defeat at Charmouth.

The same King (743 or 745) allows to the venerable Bishop Mildred of

Worcester all the rights and dues of two ships which may be demanded of

them in the hythe of London town.

In the year 857, King Burgred of Mercia assigns to Bishop Alhune

“aliquam parvam portionem libertatis, cum consensu consiliatorum

meorum, gaziferi agelluli in vico Lundonioe: hoc est, ubi nominatur.

Ceol-munding-chaga, qui est non longe from Westgetum positus.” Where

was Ceol-munding-chaga? Where was Westgetum? And is the English

preposition a mistake of Kemble’s?

In the year 889, “Alfred rex Anglorum et Saxonum et Aethelred sub

regulus et patricius Merciorum ... Uuaerfrido, eximio Huicciorum

antistiti, ad aecclesiam Weo-gernensem in Lundonia unam curtem quae

verbotenus ad antiquum petrosum aedificium, id est, aet Hwaetmundes

stane a civibus apellatur, a strata publica usque in murum ejusdem

civitatis, cujus longitudo est perticarum xxvi et latitudo in superiori

parte perticarum xiii et pedum vii et in inferiori loco perticarum xi

et vi pedum, ad plenam libertatem infra totius rei sempiternaliter

possidendum, in aecclesiasticum jus conscribimus et concedentes

donamus.”

We have now arrived at the coming of the Danes. It seems a just

retribution that the Saxons should in their turn suffer exactly the

same miseries by robbery and murder as they had themselves inflicted

upon the Britons. One knows not when the Northmen first tasted the

fierce joy of piracy and marauding on the English coast; probably they

began as soon as the farms and settlements of the English were worth

plundering. It must be remembered that as yet there was little cohesion

or joint action among the “kingdoms,” and that war was incessant

between them. Read, for instance, the following passage from the

_Anglo-Saxon Chronicle_. It relates the wars of one year only, the year

823. Think of the condition of the country when all these battles and

all this slaughter were crammed into one year only:—

“This year there was a battle between the Welsh and the men of Devon

and Camelford; and the same year Egbert, King of the West Saxons,

and Bernulf, King of the Mercians, fought at Wilton, and Egbert got

the victory, and there was great slaughter made. He then sent from

the army his son Ethelwulf, and Ealston his bishop, and Wulfherd his

ealdorman, into Kent with a large force, and they drove Baldred the

King northwards over the Thames. And the men of Kent, and the men of

Surrey, and the South Saxons, and the East Saxons submitted to him;

for formerly they had been unjustly forced from his kin. And the same

year the King of the East Angles and the people sought the alliance

and protection of King Egbert for dread of the Mercians; and the same

year the East Angles slew Barnulf, King of Mercia.”

Attempts were made at combined action. In the year 833, for instance,

as we have seen, King Egbert called a Witenagemot at London. This was

attended by the King of Mercia and the bishops. The deliberations,

however, of this Parliament did nothing to prevent the disasters that

followed.

[Illustration: KING IN BED

Harl. MS., 4751.]

The share which fell to London of all the pillage and massacre was less

than might have been expected. Thus, in 832 the Danes ravaged Sheppey;

in 833 Dorsetshire. In 835 they were defeated in Cornwall; in 837 at

Southampton and Portland; in 838 in Lindsey, in East Anglia, and in

Kent. In 839 “there was great slaughter at London, at Canterbury, and

at Rochester.” In 840 the Danes landed at Charmouth; in 845 at the

mouth of the Parrett in Somersetshire; in 851 at Plymouth; in the same

year the Saxons got some ships and met the enemy on the sea, taking

nine ships and putting the rest to flight, but, which is significant,

the Danes wintered that year on Thanet. “And the same year there came

350 ships to the mouth of the Thames, and the crews landed and took

Canterbury and London by storm, and put to flight Berthwulf, King of

the Mercians, with his army, and then went south over the Thames into

Surrey.” King Ethelwulf with the men of Wessex met them at Ockley, and

defeated them with great slaughter. In the same year the Saxons met

them on the sea in ships and beat them off. They seem to have been

driven out of the country by these reverses, for in 854 we read of

battles fought in Thanet, which looks like an attempt to settle there

again; and in 855 they succeeded in wintering on that island. In 860

they stormed and burned Winchester, and were then driven off by the

men of Hampshire. In 865 they sat down in Thanet and made peace with

the men of Kent for a price; but they broke their word. In 866 the

Danes took up their winter quarters with the East Angles and made peace

with them. In 867 there was fighting in Northumbria, the kings were

slain, and the people made peace with the Danes; in 868 the Mercians

made peace with them. In 870 the “army” marched into East Anglia

from York and there defeated King Edmund (St. Edmund) and destroyed

all the churches and the great and rich monastery of Medehamstede

(Peterborough)—“at that time,” says the _Chronicle_, “the land was much

distressed by frequent battles ... there was warfare and sorrow over

England.” Both in 870 and in 871 there was fighting all the summer at

and near Reading. In 872 “the army went from Reading to London and

there took up their winter quarters”; in 874 they wintered at Repton;

in 875 some marched north, and some south, wintering at Cambridge. In

that year Alfred, now King, obtained a fleet and fought seven Danish

ships successfully. In 876 the Danes were at Wareham; in 877 their

fleet was cast away and the army fled to the “fortress” of Exeter. In

878 there was fighting in the west country; in 879 the Danes were at

Fulham on the Thames. Some of the Danes then crossed the Channel and

visited France, leaving a part of the army in England. In 882 King

Alfred fought them on the sea. The chronicle of 883 is brief, but

extremely important: “That same year Sighelm and Athelstan carried

to Rome the arms which the King had vowed to send thither, and also

to India, to St. Thomas, and to St. Bartholomew, when they sat down

against the army at London; and there, thanks be to God, they largely

obtained the object of their prayer.”

[Illustration: THE PERILS OF THE DEEP

Harl. MS., 4751.]

If this brief chronicle be followed on the map, it will be perceived

that, although fighting went on year after year in various parts of the

country, London was in the grasp of the Danes for no more than twelve

years. The area of the battlefield into which the Danes had converted

England extended year by year, but always included London.

CHAPTER III

THE DANES IN LONDON

The Danes, then, held London for twelve years. In after years, when the

country was governed by Danish kings, large numbers of Danes settled

in London, and, with the national readiness to adapt themselves to new

conditions and new manners (compare the quick conversion of Normans

to French language and manners), they speedily became merged in the

general population. Very soon we hear no more of Danes and English as

separate peoples, either in London or in the country. London, indeed,

has always received all, absorbed all, and turned all into Londoners.

During this first Danish occupation, of which we know nothing, one

of two things happened: either the occupiers settled down among the

citizens, leaving them to follow their trades and crafts in their own

way; or they murdered and pillaged, drove away all who could fly, and

then sat down quietly and remained, an army in occupation in a strong

place. Everything points to the latter course, because the ferocity of

the Danes at this time was a thing almost incredible. London was, for

the moment, ruined. It was not deserted by the lowest class, for the

simple reason that an army requires people for the service of providing

its daily wants. Food—grain and cattle—was brought in from West and

East Anglia; the river supplied fish and fowl—wildfowl—in abundance.

But fishermen and fowlers were wanted; therefore these useful people

would not be slain, except in the first rush and excitement of victory.

In the same way armourers, smiths, makers of weapons, bakers, brewers,

butchers, drovers, cooks, craftsmen, and servants of all kinds are

wanted, even by the rudest soldiery. In the fifth century, when

the trade of London deserted her, the people had to go because the

food supplies also were cut off. Since the Danish army could winter

in London for twelve years, it is certain that they had command of

supplies. Therefore, after the first massacres and flight, the lower

classes remained in the service of their new lords. Moreover, by this

time, the enemy, having resolved to stay in the country, had doubtless

made the discovery that it is the worst policy possible to kill the

people who were wanted to bring them supplies, or to murder the farmers

who were growing crops and keeping cattle for them to devour.

The Danes occupied London for twelve years. At the best it was a bad

time for the people who remained with them. Rough as was the London

craftsman of the ninth century, he was mild and gentle compared with

his Danish conqueror and master.

If we inquire whether the trade of London vanished during these years,

it may be argued, first, that the desire for gain is always stronger

than the fear of danger; secondly, that merchant-ships were accustomed

to fight their way; thirdly, that when a strong tide or current of

trade has set steadily in one direction for many years, it is not

easily stopped or diverted; fourthly, that when the first massacre

was over, the Danes would perhaps see the advantage of encouraging

merchants to bring things, if only for their own use; for they were

ready to buy weapons and wine, if nothing else, and there were a great

many things which they wanted and could not make for themselves. As

for the interior, there could be no trade there during the disturbed

condition of the country.

A note made a hundred and fifty years later shows that the Danes did

at least consume the importations of foreign merchants. When they

murdered Alphage, Archbishop of Canterbury, they were drunk with wine.

We cannot suppose that an army whose soldiers regarded strong drink as

the greatest joy of life did not perceive the advantages of procuring

wine in abundance by means of the merchants who brought it from France

and Spain.

I allow the weight of these reasons. I admit that there may have been

still some trade carried on at the Port of London. I shall presently

give reasons for supposing, on the other hand, that London was again

ruined and deserted.

Let us see what manner of men were these soldiers who became owners of

London for twelve years and afterwards furnished kings to England and

law-abiding burghers to the City.

We may learn their manners from the pages of the historian Saxo

Grammaticus.

To begin with, the Danes were a nation of warriors, as yet not

Christians. And Christianity, when it came, brought at first little

softening of manners. It presented much the same Devil to the popular

imagination, but with a face and figure more clearly outlined; it

localised Hell, which remained much the same for the Christian as for

the pagan, only it furnished more exact details and left no doubt as to

the treatment and sufferings of the lost. The only honour paid to any

man was that due to valour; the only thing worthy of a man’s attention

was the maintenance of his strength and the increase of his courage.

The king must lead in battle; he must sometimes fight battles of wager;

he had his following or court of lords, who were bound to fight beside

him, and to die, if necessary, with him or for him. If he should by

any lucky accident escape the accidents of battle, murder, and sudden

death, and so enter upon old age, he must abdicate, for a king who

could no longer fight was absurd.

The Danes had troops of slaves: some born in slavery; some captives

of war; the craftsmen of London were no doubt slaves because they

were captives—they had survived the storm of the City. A slave had no

rights at all; his master could do what he pleased with him; he was

flogged, tortured, scorned, reviled, and brutally treated; it was a

time when the joy of fighting was followed by the joy of revenge, when

to make a captive noble eat the bread of servitude and drink the water

of humiliation filled the victor with a savage joy. As for the women,

they were reserved for the service and the lusts of the captors. It

pleased the chivalry of the Dane to cast the daughters of kings into

the brothel of the common soldier.

[Illustration: SLAVES WAITING ON A HOUSEHOLD

Tib., B. v.]

Of course they had the virtue of courage—it is, however, suspicious

that, among the Danes, as in all savage nations, their courage had to

be kept up by constant exhortations, charms, and songs. There were

unexpected panics and routs and shameful flights of these invincible

Danes as well as of the Saxons: this would seem to show that their

vaunted courage was liable to occasions of failure. They were, however,

marvellously free from fear of pain; they seem to have disregarded it

altogether. Of one man it is related that rather than marry a certain

princess who was offered him he chose to be burned to death; and in

a poem it is told of another that, when he was wounded so grievously

that his entrails were exposed, he refused the help of a slave because

he was a slave, and the help of a woman because her birth was not

noble, and so he remained till one of free and honourable birth came

along, who tied him round with withies and carried him off to a house.

Honour and loyalty were not so much admired as demanded. Treachery and

rebellion were ruthlessly punished. In some cases the wretched criminal

was tied by thongs passed under the sinews of his heels to the tails of

wild bulls and then hunted to death by hounds. Other punishments there

were. As for the women, those of free birth were modest and chaste:

to be detected in an amour involved such a barbarous punishment as the

cutting off of the nose.

[Illustration: GUTHLAC CARRIED AWAY BY DEVILS

Harl. MS., Roll Y. 6.]

Their weapons were swords, clubs, axes, bows, slings, and stones.

Those who could afford to buy them wore mail coats and helmets; they

carried banners; they blew horns; they fought on foot; and the battle

was decided by single combat, hand to hand, with great slaughter and

prodigies of valour. Like the Red Indians, they were able to work

themselves up into a kind of frenzy before fighting. Sometimes there

were Amazons among them. They all messed together, king and nobles

and soldiers. When at home they gathered in the great hall at night

with fires blazing, with torches, and with hangings to keep out the

draughts. Their food was for the most part simple—beef, mutton, pork,

with huge quantities of bread. Their drink was chiefly ale, served in

horns. After supper they played games. We must remember how long were

the winter evenings which had to be got through. Games of some kind

were necessary, and there were a great number of games. The minstrel

played the harp and sang warlike songs of the deeds of great warriors.

They “flyted” each other, _i.e._ endeavoured to reduce each other to

silence by abuse and insult, a game which gave great opportunities to a

man of imagination. Such specimens of “flyting” as remain show that it

might be, and most likely was, coarse and obscene to the last degree.

They told stories of their leaders and wove impossible fictions of

their bravery, their endurance, and their generosity. They bragged over

impossible deeds, a thing which we find the knights of the fourteenth

century also doing in their game of _gabe_; they called in jugglers,

tumblers, mimes, and singers of love-songs and drinking-songs. It is

to be noted that, although they loved the acting and the singing, they

held the calling of actors and minstrels in great contempt. Sometimes

they tugged at a rope, as in our old game of French and English.

Sometimes, when they were well drunken, they began a very favourite

pastime, that of bone-throwing. It was in this way that St. Alphage

was murdered. For the Danes sent for him and began to throw beef bones

at him, perhaps in play, and expecting to see the Archbishop dodge the

bones dexterously. He did not—one struck him on the head and he fell

dead.

As for the religion of these people before and after their conversion,

they believed boundlessly. They believed in giants and in dwarfs, in

ghosts and in devils, in fate, in a whole array of gods and goddesses,

in the Land of Undeath, in the Underground Land, in magic and

sorcery, in charms and philtres, in ordeals. All these things, with

modifications, they continued to believe long after they were received

into the bosom of the Christian Church. And they were full of stories,

legends, and traditions—a wild, imaginative people, with a limited

horizon of knowledge, beyond and outside which all was blackness, with

the terror of the unknown.

Such were the people who came every year with their army, harrying

and plundering, murdering and destroying, till they found it more

convenient to winter in the country, which they did, occupying the

islands of Thanet. Such were the people who obtained possession of

London; such were the people who afterwards flocked to the City in the

days of King Cnut and settled down among the rest of the heterogeneous

London folk.

There are no traces of this first Danish occupation. The churches

dedicated to Danish saints, Magnus and Olaf, were erected afterwards.

Probably the Danes at this time left not one church standing.

In 883 Alfred obtained possession of the City—“after a short siege”—the

historians write. The only authority for this short siege is the

paragraph in the _A.S. Chronicle_ already quoted. “They sat down

against the army of London; and there they largely obtained the object

of their prayer.” After the battle of Ethandun, the Danes retired from

Cirencester to Chippenham, and there wintered. In the same year another

body of them collected and wintered at Fulham on the Thames. This fact

makes me ask why, when London was theirs, the Danes should winter at

Fulham instead of at the City itself. Surely London offered winter

quarters superior to those of Fulham, that little village in a marsh.

There seems to me no explanation except one, namely, that the City was

once more deserted. The same thing which happened to Augusta may have

happened also to Saxon London. The whole of its trade was destroyed;

the river and the channel were in the hands of the Northmen; the City

had been taken with the customary massacres and plunder; it was no

longer possible to live in the place; no supplies could be taken there

because there were no longer any means of buying for them or paying

for them. Therefore, save for the wretched remnant of fishermen and

slaves, the streets were desolate and the port was deserted. We may

draw a picture of burned houses and roofless churches; of broken doors

and narrow lanes, cumbered with useless plunder dragged from the houses

and left in the streets because it could not be carried away; of dead

bodies left unburied where they fell in defence or in flight along the

streets and in the houses; of City gates lying open to any who chose to

enter; of the City wall broken away, having never been repaired since

the Britons fled before the Saxons came. This ruined and deserted city

Alfred recovered. How? By a siege? What kind of siege would it be when

there were no walls to defend; not enough men to man the walls, and not

enough of the besiegers to attack them?

[Illustration: SAXON MINSTRELS

From Strutt’s _Sports and Pastimes_.

From Luttrell’s _Psalter._]

Does not the _Chronicle_ answer these questions?

In A.D. 880. The “Army”—_i.e._ the Danes—“which had sat down

at Fulham, went over sea to Ghent, and sat there one year.”

In A.D. 881. The “army went farther into France.”

In A.D. 882. “The army went far into France and there sat one

year.”

In that year Alfred fought a sea-battle against “four Danish

ships”—only four—took two, and received the surrender of the other two.

But it was not with “four” ships that Cnut and Sweyn proposed to attack

London.

In A.D. 883. “The army went up the Scheldt and sat there one

year.”

This was the same year that Alfred “sat down against the army of

London.”

The main body of the Danes was lying up the Scheldt; the Danish fleets

were represented by four vessels; what kind of army was that before

which Alfred sat down?

My own reading of the story is that the small force of Danes in, or

near, London, retired without fighting, and that Alfred, meeting with

no opposition, marched into the City and began at once, understanding

the enormous advantage of possessing the place, to consider steps in

order to secure that possession. He seems to have had a whole year

during which he was left in peace, or comparative peace, in order

to consider the position. Meantime, there was more fighting to be

done before these measures could be fairly taken in hand. The Danes,

retiring from London, divided into two parts: one division went into

Essex; the other crossed the river and fell upon Rochester. Here Alfred

met them and put them to flight; they escaped across the seas to their

own country. Alfred’s fleet defeated the Danish fleet at the mouth of

the Stour, but were themselves defeated in their turn.

[Illustration: PLAYING DRAUGHTS

Roy. MS. 2, B. vii.]

The following year, 886, was again a year of peace, according to the

_Chronicle_. The “Army” wintered in France near Paris. Alfred received

the “submission of all the English except those who were under the

bondage of the Danishmen.” This passage, if we were considering the

history of the country, should set us thinking. In this place it is

enough to note that Alfred took advantage of the respite to repair

London. And he placed the City under the charge of Ethelred his

son-in-law. So, whether by siege or by battle, or, as I rather believe,

by the retirement of the enemy, Alfred recovered London, and, as soon

as the condition of his affairs allowed, he repaired it and rebuilt it,

and made it once more habitable and secure for the resort of merchants

and the safeguarding of fugitives, of women, and of treasure.

CHAPTER IV

THE SECOND SAXON OCCUPATION

It is sometimes said that one of the earliest acts of King Alfred in

gaining possession of London was to build a fortress or tower within

the City. The authority for this statement seems to be nothing more

than a passage in the _Chronicle_, under the year 896. “Then on a

certain day the king rode up along the river and observed where the

river might be obstructed, so that the Danes would be unable to bring

up their ships. And they then did thus. They constructed two fortresses

on the two sides of the river.” This seems but a slender foundation

for the assumption of Freeman that Alfred built a citadel for the

defence of London. “The germ of that tower which was to be first the

dwelling-place of kings and then the scene of the martyrdom of their

victims.” I see no reason at all for the construction of any fortress

within the City except the reason which impelled William to build the

White Tower, viz. in order to keep a hold over the powerful City. And

this reason certainly did not influence Alfred. It is quite possible

that Alfred did strengthen the City by the construction of a fortress,

though such a building was by no means in accordance with the Saxon

practice. It is further quite possible that he built such a tower on

the site where William’s tower stood later; but it seems to me almost

inconceivable that Alfred, if he wanted to build a tower, should not

have reconstructed and repaired the old Roman citadel, of which the

foundations were still visible. I confess that I am doubtful about the

fortress. What Alfred really did, as I read the _Chronicle_, was to

construct two temporary forts near the mouth of the Thames, so as to

prevent the Danish ships from getting out. He caught them in a trap.

Let us renew the course of the Danish invasions so far as they concern

London. In 893 one army of Danes landed on the eastern shores of Kent

and another at the mouth of the Thames. In 894 King Alfred fought them

and defeated them, getting back the booty. Some of the Danes took to

their ships and sailed round to the west, whither the King pursued

them. Others fled to a place near Canvey Island called Bamfleet, where

they fortified themselves. Then, for the first time after the Conquest,

we find that London is once more powerful, and once more filled with

valiant citizens. For the Londoners marched out under Ethelred, Earl of

Mercia, their governor, attacked the Danes in their stronghold, took

it, put the enemy to flight, and returned to London with all that was

within the fort, including the women and the children. In 895 the Danes

brought their ships up the Thames and towed them up the Lea to the

town of Ware, but the year afterwards the Londoners made their ships

useless: whereupon the Danes abandoned them, and the men of London took

or destroyed them. Maitland says that “a few years ago”—he writes in

1786—“at the erection of Stanstead Bridge, remains of these ships were

found.”

[Illustration:

_T. Reveley, Wantage._

THE ALFRED JEWEL (REVERSE)]

[Illustration:

_T. Reveley, Wantage._

THE ALFRED JEWEL (OBVERSE)]

King Alfred was able to equip and to send out an efficient fleet. In

the year 901, to accept the generally received date, which now appears,

however, more than doubtful, the great King Alfred passed away. No king

or captain, in the whole history of London, ever did so much for the

City as Alfred. Circumstances, chance, geographical position, created

London for the Romans, and restored it for the Saxons. Circumstances,

not the wisdom of kings, gave London, in after ages, its charters and

its liberties. It is the especial glory of Alfred that he discerned

the importance of the City, not only for purposes of trade, but as a

bulwark of national defence. He repaired the strong walls which, in a

time when ladders and mines were not yet part of the equipment of war,

made the City impregnable; he gave security to merchants; he offered

a place of safety to princesses and great ladies; a treasure-house

which could not be broken into and a rallying-place for fugitives. He

gave the newly-born City a strong governor and a strong government; he

made it possible, as was shown two hundred years later, to maintain

the independence of the people even though the whole country except

this one stronghold should be overrun. London continued under the rule

of Ethelred, Earl of the Mercians, till his death in 912, when King

Edward “took possession of London.” In 917 there was fighting with the

Danes in Mercia, and in 918 about Hereford and Gloucester; from 919

till his death in 924, King Edward was continually occupied in fighting

and in fortifying towns. By King Athelstan was fought and won the great

battle of Brunanburgh, when there was slain five kings and seven earls.

This victory, Maitland says, was “chiefly obtained by the bravery of

the Londoners, who were the best troops in the army.” The _Anglo-Saxon

Chronicle_ does not say anything about the London troops.

[Illustration:

_Augustin Rischgitz._

PAGE FROM GOSPEL BOOK GIVEN BY OTHO I. TO ATHELSTAN, GRANDSON OF ALFRED

THE GREAT; ON IT THE ANGLO-SAXON KINGS TOOK THE CORONATION OATH

Cotton MS., Tiberius, A. 2.]

[Illustration:

_Augustin Rischgitz._

FROM KING ALFRED’S “OROSIUS.”

Cotton MS.]

Maitland points out, as an indication that London was now in

flourishing condition, the fact that Athelstan, in apportioning the

number of coiners for each town, allotted to London and Canterbury

the same number, and that the highest number. To consider this an

indication of prosperity is indeed to be thankful for small mercies. To

me it is a clear proof, on the other hand, of the comparative decline

of London, since she was considered of no greater importance than

Canterbury.

At this period, however, the cities of England, all of which without

exception had been taken and devastated by the “army,” had sunk to a

point of poverty as low as any touched even in the fifth and sixth

century—those centuries of battle and disaster,—and perhaps lower, for

the Saxons were slow in becoming residents in a walled city, and would

be ready to return if possible to the old life in the open.

Let us go back to the _Chronicle_. In the year 945, King Edmund held a

Witenagemot in London, chiefly occupied with ecclesiastical affairs.

During the reigns of Edmund and Edred (940-955) there was fighting in

Northumberland, but no new incursions of the Danes. Under the powerful

rule of Edgar there was an almost unbroken peace of seventeen years. In

979 began the disastrous reign of Ethelred, when the Danish incursions

were renewed on a larger scale, and when the glory of England departed.

Let me here quote the opinion of Freeman as to the position of London

at this time.

“The importance of that great city was daily growing throughout these

times. We cannot as yet call it the capital of the kingdom, but its

geographical position made it one of the chief bulwarks of the land,

and there was no part of the realm whose people could outdo the

patriotism and courage of its valiant citizens. London at this time

fills much the same place in England which Paris filled in Northern

Gaul a century earlier. The two cities, in their several lands, were

two great fortresses, placed on the two great rivers of the country,

the special objects of attack on the part of the invaders, and the

special defence of the country against them. Each was, as it were,

marked out by great public services to become the capital of the whole

kingdom. But Paris became a national capital only because its local

count grew into a national king. London, amidst all changes within

and without, has always kept more or less of her ancient character as

a free city. Paris was a military bulwark, the dwelling-place of a

ducal or a royal sovereign; London, no less important as a military

post, had also a greatness which rested on a surer foundation. London,

like a few other of our great cities, is one of the ties which connect

our Teutonic England with the Celtic and Roman Britain of earlier

times. Her British name still lives on, unchanged by the Teutonic

conquerors. Before we first hear of London as an English city she had

cast away her Roman and Imperial title: she was no longer Augusta:

she had taken again her ancient name, and through all changes she

clave to her ancient character. The commercial fame of London dates

from the early days of Roman dominion. The English Conquest may have

caused an interruption for a while, but it was only for a while. As

early as the days of Æthelberht the commerce of London was again

renowned. Ælfred had rescued the city from the Dane; he had built a

citadel for her defence, the germ of that Tower which was to be first

the dwelling-place of kings, and then the scene of the martyrdom of

their victims. Among the laws of Æthelstan none are more remarkable

than those which deal with the internal affairs of London and with the

regulation of her earliest commercial corporations. During the reign

of Æthelred the merchant city again became the object of special and

favourable legislation. His institutes speak of a commerce spread

all over the lands that bordered on the western ocean. Flemings and

Frenchmen, men of Ponthieu, of Brabant, and of Luttich, filled her

markets with their wares and enriched the civic coffers with their

toils. Thither, too, came the men of Rouen, whose descendants were, at

no distant day, to form no small element among her own citizens. And

worthy and favoured above all, came the seafaring men of the Old-Saxon

brotherland, and pioneers of the mighty Hansa of the North, which was

in days to come to knit together London and Novogorod in one bond of

commerce, and to dictate laws and distribute crowns among the nations

by whom London was now threatened. The demand for toll and tribute fell

lightly on those whom English legislation distinguished as the men of

the Emperor.”

[Illustration: KING CNUT AND HIS QUEEN, EMMA, PRESENTING A CROSS UPON

THE ALTAR OF NEWMINSTER (WINCHESTER)

Stowe MS., 944 (11th cent.).]

The part played by London in the country during the momentous hundred

years following Ethelred’s accession shows the importance of the

City. That Londoners fought at Maldon is not to be doubted. That

year witnessed the shameful buying of peace from the pirates whom

the English had been defeating and defying since the days of Alfred.

It was hoped by the Danes to renew the bribe of 991 in the year

following. They came up the Thames, but they were met by the Londoners

with their fleet and defeated with great slaughter. In the following

year Bamborough was taken by the Danes and the north country ravaged.

In the year 994, after the news of the taking of Bamborough and the

flight of the Thanes at Lindesey, encouraged by their successes, the

Danes attempted an invasion on a far more serious scale. This time the

leaders were Olaf, King of the Norwegians, and Swegen, King of the

Danes. They sailed up the Thames with a fleet of ninety-four ships. The

invaders arrived at London and delivered an assault upon the wall. It

must be remembered that the river side of the wall was then standing.

We are not informed whether the town was attacked from the land side

or the river side. The attack was, however, repelled with so much

determination, and with such loss to the besiegers, that the two kings

abandoned the attempt that same day and sailed away. The victory and

the safety of the City were attributed to the “mild-heartedness of the

holy Mother of God.”

As for the Northmen, since they could not pillage London they would

ravage the coast; and, taking horses, they rode through the eastern

and southern shores, pillaging and ravaging and murdering man, woman,

and child. These large words must not be taken to imply too much. When

a band of marauders rode through the country, especially a country

with only a few roads or tracks, they were limited in their field of

robberies by the limited number of roads, by the distances between the

settled places, by their own desire to return as quickly as possible,

and by their inability to carry more than a certain amount of booty.

Two or three small loops drawn inland from the anchorage of their ships

would mark the extent of their forays from that part. However, they

were bought off. In this case Olaf kept his word. He was a Christian

already, but he received confirmation from Bishop Ælfreah, and on his

return to his own country he spent the rest of his life in promoting

Christianity. In St. Olave, Silver Street; St. Olave, Hart Street;

St. Olave, Jewry; and St. Olave, Tooley Street, we have four churches

erected to the memory of the saintly Northman who kept his word, and,

having promised to return no more, stayed in his own country.

Swegen came back, though after some delay, to revenge the foulest

treachery. It was that of England’s Bartholomew Day, when, by order

of King Ethelred, certainly the very worst king who ever ruined his

generation, all the Danes in the land were treacherously murdered at

one time. Among those victims was Gunhilda, Swegen’s own sister, with

her husband and her son. Swegen came over and landed at Sandwich. It

was nine years since the payment of Olaf and himself. During these

nine miserable years there had been an unbroken series of defeats and

humiliations, with the treacheries and jealousies and quarrels which

in rude times follow in the train of a weak king. Swegen made himself

master of the whole kingdom except London. He attempted the siege of

the City with a mighty host; he assaulted the walls; and he was beaten

back. As ten years before, he wasted no time in trying to take a place

too strongly fortified and defended. Ethelred, however, deserted the

town, retiring to the Isle of Wight with his ships. Queen Emma went

over to Normandy, taking her sons Edward and Alfred; and London, having

no longer a king to fight for, opened her doors to the Danish conqueror.

Swegen died immediately afterwards. He left two sons: Harold, who

succeeded to the Danish kingdom, and Cnut, a youth of nineteen, who was

proclaimed King by the Danish fleet. What follows was certainly done

at London. “Then counselled all the Witan who were in England, clergy

and laity, that they should send after King Ethelred: and they declared

that no lord was dearer to them than their natural lord, if he would

rule them better than he had before done. Then sent the King his son

Edward hither with his messengers and ordered them to greet all his

people: and to say that he would be to them a loving lord and amend

all those things which they abhorred, and each of those things would

be forgiven which had been done or said to him on condition that they

all with one consent would be obedient to him without deceit. And they

there established full friendship, by word and by pledge, on either

hand.... Then during Lent King Ethelred came home to his own people:

and he was gladly received by them all.” He also promised to govern by

the advice of his Witan.

[Illustration: THE KING RECEIVING A DEPUTATION

Royal MS. 2, B. vii.]

There followed the defeat of Cnut, who sailed away to Denmark; the

marriage of Edmund Atheling with the widow of the murdered Segefrith;

the return of Cnut; the treachery of Eadric; and the loss of southern

England. Edmund, however, held out in the north for a time: finally,

Cnut overran the north as well as the south, and all England, except

London, was in his power. He proposed an expedition against London.

While on his way thither he heard that King Ethelred was dead. He

called a gemot of the Witan. All who were without the walls of London

assembled at Southampton and chose Cnut as the lawful King of England.

At the same time the smaller body which was within London chose Edmund

king. He was crowned, not at Kingston in Surrey, the usual place for

coronations, where still may be seen the sacred stone of record, but at

St. Paul’s in London.

The history of the wonderful year that followed belongs to the country

rather than to London. It was the year when one great and strong man

restored their spirit to a disgraced and degraded people; won back a

good half of the land; and, if he had lived, would have reconquered

the rest—the year of Edmund Ironside. On St. Andrew’s Day, some months

after his father, this great soldier died in London. They buried him in

the Minster of Glastonbury, which held the bones of Edgar.

It was at the beginning of this short reign that Cnut commenced the

famous siege of London. “The ships came to Greenwich at Rogation days.

And within a little space they went to London and dug a great ditch on

the south side and dragged their ships to the west side of the bridge;

and then afterwards they ditched the city round, so that no one could

go either in or out: and they repeatedly fought against the city; but

the citizens strenuously withstood them. Then had King Edmund, before

that, gone out: and then he overran Wessex and all the people submitted

to him.” Thus the _Chronicle_. The siege was raised by the arrival of

Edmund.

This is a very brief and bald account of a most memorable event. We

learn two or three things from it—first, that in some way or other

the citizens made the passage of the bridge impossible, yet twenty

years later Earl Godwin’s ships passed through the southern arches.

He, it is true, had previously secured the goodwill of the Londoners.

It is possible that, in the case of Cnut, they may have barred the

way by chains. It is, next, certain that the river wall was standing,

otherwise an attack upon the south of the City would have been

attempted. London was secure within its wall, which ran all round

it. The Danes had no knowledge of sieges: they had neither battering

rams, nor ladders, nor any means of attacking a wall: they never even

thought of mining. It is, next, certain either that the population

of London was so large as to man the whole wall, a thing difficult

to believe, or that the Danish army was so small that it could only

attack at certain points. And it is also certain that the Danes could

not keep out supplies; the way was open either into Kent or into Essex

or to the north. The account also makes it clear that the bridge had

been repaired; that it was maintained in good order; and that it was

strongly fortified. Cnut, it is evident, did not propose to attempt the

City by means of the bridge.

Let us now go back a little in order to consider the condition of the

bridge and the story of King Cnut’s trench. It is not certain whether

the Saxons at the time of their first settlement kept the bridge in

repair; the intercourse between the King of Kent and the King of the

East Saxons may possibly have been carried on by a ferry. At the same

time it was so easy to keep the bridge open that one feels confident

that it was maintained. When the Danes got possession of London their

movements are pretty closely followed, but no mention is made of the

bridge. I am inclined to think that during their occupation the piles

stood up across the river, partly stripped of their upper beams, and

that it was Alfred who repaired the bridge when he repaired the wall.

That the bridge was standing and in good repair in the time of King

Edgar is proved by the curious story of the witch and her punishment

which belongs to that time (see p. 222).

[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON WARRIORS APPROACHING A FORT

Harl. MS., 603.]

“In the year 993,” says the _Anglo-Saxon Chronicle_, “came Olaf with 90

ships to Staines and ravaged thereabouts; and went thence to Sandwich,

and so thence to Ipswich, and that all overran, and so to Maldon.”

How, it is asked, would Olaf sail past the bridge? There can be two

answers to this question. It looks, to begin with, considering that

Sandwich, Ipswich, and Maldon all lie close together, near or on the

coast, as if Olaf had no business at Staines at all. Why, Staines is

120 miles from the North Foreland, round which the fleet must sail.

And the answer to the question is, therefore, that some other place is

intended. If, however, Olaf did really sail up the river to Staines,

then the bridge must have been in a ruinous condition. But the stout

piles remained, or at least as many of them as were wanted to show how

the work could be restored or rebuilt. Snorri Sturlason, the Icelander,

who wrote in the thirteenth century, has preserved a curious account of

the bridge (_Chronicles of London Bridge_, p. 16).

[Illustration: A FIGHT

Harl. MS., 603.]

“They—that is, the Danish forces—first came to shore at London,

where their ships were to remain, and the City was taken by the

Danes. Upon the other side of the River is situate a great market

called Southwark—Sudurvirke in the original—which the Danes fortified

with many defences; framing, for instance, a high and broad ditch,

having a pile or rampart within it, formed of wood, stone, and turf,

with a large garrison placed there to strengthen it. This the King

Ethelred—his name, you know, is Adalradr in the original—attacked

and forcibly fought against; but by the resistance of the Danes it

proved but a vain endeavour. There was, at that time, a Bridge erected

over the River between the city and Southwark, so wide, that if two

carriages met they could pass each other. At the sides of the Bridge,

at those parts which looked upon the River, were erected Ramparts

and Castles that were defended on the top by pent-house bulwarks and

sheltered turrets, covering to the breasts those who were fighting in

them; the Bridge itself was also sustained by piles which were fixed

in the bed of the River. An attack, therefore, being made, the forces

occupying the Bridge fully defended it. King Ethelred being thereby

enraged, yet anxiously desirous of finding out some means by which he

might gain the Bridge, at once assembled the Chiefs of the army to a

conference on the best method of destroying it. Upon this, King Olaf

engaged—for you will remember he was an ally of Ethelred—that if the

Chiefs of the army would support him with their forces, he would make

an attack upon it with his ships. It being ordained then in council

that the army should be marched against the Bridge, each one made

himself ready for a simultaneous movement both of the ships and of the

land forces.”

King Olaf then constructed a kind of raft or scaffold which he placed

round his ships so that his men could stand upon them and work. As

soon as they reached the bridge they were assailed by a hail-storm of

missiles, which broke their shields, and forced many of the ships to

retire. Those that remained, however, made fast the ships with ropes

and cables. Then the rowers tugged their hardest; the tide turned in

their favour; and crash! down fell that part of the bridge and all the

people who were on it into the river. Thus Ethelred was restored. In

memory of this exploit the Norse Bard sang:—

“And thou hast overthrown their Bridges, Oh thou Storm of the Sons

of Odin; skilful and foremost in the Battle! For thee was it happily

reserved to possess the land of London’s winding City. Many were the

shields which were grasped sword in hand, to the mighty increase of the

conflict; but by thee were the iron-banded coats of mail broken and

destroyed....

Thou, thou hast come, Defender of the Earth, and hast restored into

his kingdom the exiled Ethelred. By thine aid is he advantaged, and

made strong by thy valour and prowess; Bitterest was that Battle

in which thou didst engage. Now in the presence of thy kindred the

adjacent lands are at rest, where Edmund, the relation of the country

and the people, formerly governed.”

There is nothing about all this in the _Anglo-Saxon Chronicle_. It may

have happened; but it could not have been invented with a stone bridge

in view, the piers of which all King Olaf’s ships together could not

move. Of a wooden bridge constructed in the way described above the

thing seems quite possible.

The next event in the history of the bridge is the unsuccessful siege

by Cnut. In the course of this siege the besiegers dug the trench round

the south end of the bridge and dragged their ships through it, so as

to attack London all along the river face. Maitland, the historian,

pleased himself by thinking that he had discovered vestiges of the

trench all the way round. In his time (_circa_ 1740) there were meadows

and pastures and orchards over the whole of south London.

“By a diligent search of several days,” Maitland says, “I discovered

the vestigia and length of this artificial water-course: its

outflux from the river Thames was where the Great Wet Dock below

Rotherhithe is situate: whence, running due west by the seven houses

in Rotherhithe Fields, it continues its course by a gentle winding

to the Drain Windmill: and, with a west-north-west course passing

St. Thomas of Watering’s, by an easy turning it crosses the Deptford

Road, a little to the south-east of the Lock-Hospital, at the lower

end of Kent Street; and, proceeding to Newington Butts, intersects the

road a little south of the turnpike; whence, continuing its course

by the Black Prince in Lambeth Road, on the north of Kennington, it

runs west-and-by-south, through the Spring garden at Vauxhall, to its

influx into the Thames at the lower end of Chelsea Reach.”

The position of this trench has been the subject of much discussion. I

submit the following as a reasonable solution of the question:—

Why should it have been a long canal? The conditions of the work were

exactly the same whatever place should be selected, viz. the Danes

would have to dig through the river embankment on both sides of the

bridge. They would also have to dig through the causeway. In the latter

part of the work certainly, and in the former part probably, they would

have to remove buildings of some kind. The continual wars (800-1000)

with the Danes make it quite certain that Southwark must then have been

in a very deserted and ruinous condition.

Why should Cnut make his canal a single foot longer than was necessary?

We may assume that he was not so foolish. Now the shortest canal

possible would be that in which he could just drag his vessels round.

In other words, if a circular canal began at CB, and if we draw an

imaginary circle GEG round the middle of the canal, it is evident

that the chord DF, forming a tangent to the middle circle, should be

at least as long as the longest vessel. I take the middle of the canal

as the deepest part: there would be no time to construct a canal with

vertical sides.

Now (see diagram)

[Illustration: Diagram showing nested semi-circles and lines

AD^2 = AE^2 + DE^2.]

If r is the radius AB or AD and 2a the breadth of the canal and

2b the length of the chord DF,

r^2 = (r - a)^2 + b^2;

∴ 2ar = a^2 + b^2;

∴ r = (a^2 + b^2)/2a.

This represents the length of the radius in terms of the length of

the largest vessel and the breadth of the canal, and is therefore the

smallest radius possible for getting the ships through. Now the great

ship found in Norway in the year 1880 is undoubtedly one of the finest

of the vessels used by Danes and Norsemen. The poets speak of larger

ships, but as a marvel. Nothing is said about Cnut having ships of very

great size. This vessel was 68 feet in length, 16 feet in breadth, and

4 feet in depth. She drew very little water; therefore a breadth of

canal equal to the breadth of the vessel would be more than enough. Let

us make the chord 70 feet in length, and the breadth of the canal 16

feet. Then

2b = 70, or b = 35,

and

2a = 16; ∴ a = 8; ∴ r = (35^2 + 8^2)/16 = 80 (very nearly).

So that AE in this radius of the inner circle is 64 feet in length.

But it was by no means necessary to form a semicircle. Any canal

formed in two parallel circles whose radii are 64 to 80 feet would be

sufficient for the purpose. Nor would it matter how short the canal

was made: a hundred feet probably represented the whole of this mighty

work of Cnut, and this cutting, after breaking down the embankment and

the causeway, was excavated in the soft mould of the reclaimed marsh.

Where, then, are Maitland’s four miles or so?

As soon as the siege was raised and the Danes departed, the embankment

was repaired; the broken causeway was filled up again; the soft earth

and mud left by the short canal and the encroachments of the tide

through the broken bank were speedily levelled, and all traces of the

work disappeared.

This bridge was carried away by the tide in 1091. In 1097, according to

the A.S. Chronicler, either the bridge had not yet been repaired, or it

had again suffered. He says, “in repairing the Bridge that was nearly

washed away.” The maintenance of the bridge at this time was provided

for by an assessment levied on the counties of Surrey and Middlesex. It

was burned down in the destructive fire of 1136. Again it was rebuilt

in wood. But in the year 1176 began the building of the long-lived and

illustrious bridge of stone, constructed by that great Pontifex, Peter

of Colechurch. The new stone bridge was built a little to the west of

the wooden bridge.

CHAPTER V

THE SECOND DANISH OCCUPATION

By the death of Edmund, Cnut was left without a rival. Edmund died on

the 30th of November. At Christmas, Cnut summoned to London the Witan

of all England to name and crown their king. He questioned witnesses

as to the portions of the kingdom, if any, assigned by Edmund to his

brothers. As for his infant children, they were not considered. It

was found that no portions had been assigned to Edmund’s brothers.

Whereupon the meeting unanimously chose Cnut as king of all England.

And he was crowned in Paul’s Minster by Archbishop Living. Then the

country, in the hands of the strongest king who had ever ruled it,

settled down to peace for nineteen years. Never before, not even during

the occupation of the Romans, was England at peace for so long. There

were no tumults at home; there were no pirates on the seas. As for

London, she has no history during this reign. The _Chronicle_ only says

as follows:—“A.D. 1018. In this year the tribute was delivered

throughout the whole English nation: that was, altogether, two and

seventy thousand pounds besides that which the townsmen of London paid,

which was ten and a half thousand pounds.”

If the sum paid was at all in proportion to population, London then

contained an eighth part of the whole people. Curiously, the population

of London is in the same proportion to-day.

“A.D. 1023. This year King Cnut, within London, in St. Paul’s

Minster, gave full leave to Archbishop Æthelnothe and Bishop Brithwine

and to all the servants of God who were with them that they might

take up from the tomb the Archbishop St. Elphege.” This they did, and

transported the remains to Canterbury, where they still lie. This

archbishop, who had been murdered by the Danes, was sainted. There is a

church in the City of London dedicated to him.

The manner of the exhumation and translation, as described in the

_Translatio S. Elphegi_ by Osborne, is quoted by Wright (_The Celt, the

Roman, and the Saxon_) to illustrate the sturdy independence and the

turbulence of the Londoners.

“When Archbishop Elfey had been slain by the Danes in 1012, the

Londoners purchased his body of the murderers, and deposited it in St.

Paul’s Cathedral. After Cnut had obtained the crown by conquest, and

peace was restored, Archbishop Agelnoth (Elfey’s successor) applied to

the king to give up the body of the martyr to the monks of Canterbury.

Cnut, who was then holding his court in London, consented, but he

would only undertake to get the body away by deceiving the citizens.

He gave orders to his _huscarles_, or household soldiers, to disperse

themselves in parties, some on the bridge and along the banks of the

river, whilst others went to the gates of the city, and there raised

tumults and riots. By dint of promises and persuasions, the men who

had the care of the body of Elfey were prevailed upon to assist in

the plot, and, whilst the attention of the citizens was called to the

disturbances at the gates, the sacred deposit was carried by stealth

to the river and there placed in a boat, which was rowed in all haste

beyond the limits of the capital, and then landed in Kent. The king

stood on the bank of the Thames, and watched its progress with anxious

eye, for _he was afraid of the citizens_. When the latter discovered

the trick which had been played upon them, they sent out a party in

pursuit of the fugitives, who, however, had reached a place of safety

before they were overtaken.”

“A.D. 1035. This year,” says the _Chronicle_, “died King

Cnut.” If, as Freeman maintains, King Alfred was the most perfect

character in all history, then is Cnut the wisest and the strongest

character in English history. He founded a standing army with his

regiment of Huscarles, or Guards; he respected old laws and customs;

he recognised the right of the people to accept or refuse new laws; he

defined the right of hunting, leaving every man free to hunt over his

own land; he denounced the slave trade; he ordered that there was to be

no trading on Sunday—surely the weekly day of rest is the greatest boon

ever bestowed upon men who have to work for their living. He enjoined

the discharge of church duties and the payment of church dues. All

these things, however, belong to the history of England.

On the death of Cnut a Witenagemot was held at Oxford for the election

of his successor. How the kingdom was partitioned between Harold and

Hardacnut; how the partition was found impossible; how Harold ruled

over all England; how evil was his rule and how disastrous—these things

belong to English history. London, which suffered from Harold’s misrule

with the rest of the kingdom, had been mainly instrumental in the

election of that king. She was represented at Oxford by her “lithsmen,”

_i.e._ her sea-going men. Were they the merchants? or were they the

Danes—men of the sea—who formed a considerable part of her population?

Freeman thinks they were the latter; there seems, however, no reason

for adopting that view, or for supposing that in a general parliament

of the kingdom the Danes of London should be called upon to send

special representatives. Why were not the Danes of Leicestershire, or

of Norfolk, where there were so many, also called? There is, however,

a passage in the laws of Athelstan which seems to clear up this point.

Athelstan conferred the rank of Thane on every merchant who made three

voyages over the sea with a vessel and cargo of his own. Therefore,

in calling the Witenagemot these navigators—men of the sea—who had in

this manner obtained the rank of Thane were summoned by right. The

“lithsmen” were not the merchants; they were not the Danes; they were

simply the merchant adventurers who had traded _outre mer_, beyond the

seas and back for three voyages, and claimed for that service the rank

of Thane.

The reign of Harold is only important to us for these reasons—First,

the part played by London in the election of the king. Next, the

illustration of the savagery which still remained among the Danes, and

was shown in their horrible treatment of the Etheling Alfred and his

men. Alfred, the son of Ethelred, thought that the death of Cnut would

give him a chance of succession. He therefore came over, accompanied

by a small following. But “Godwin, the earl, would not allow him.” His

fate is recorded in the _A.S. Chronicle_:—

“But Godwin him then let,

and him in bonds set;

and his companions he dispersed;

and some divers ways slew;

some they for money sold,

some cruelly slaughtered,

some they did bind,

some they did blind,

some they did mutilate,

some did they scalp;

nor was a bloodier deed

done in this land

since the Danes came,

and here accepted peace.

Now is our trust in

the beloved God,

that they are in bliss,

blithely with Christ.

The etheling still lived,

who were without guilt

so miserably slain.

Every ill they him vowed,

until it was decreed

that he should be led

to Ely-bury,

thus bound.

Soon as he came to land,

in the ship he was blinded;

and him thus blind

they brought to the monks;

and he there abode

the while that he lived.

After that him they buried,

as well was his due

full worthily,

as he worthy was,

at the west end,

the steeple well-nigh,

in the south aisle.

His soul is with Christ.”

And lastly, the fact that Harold was buried at Westminster, the first

of our kings buried there. His half-brother, Hardacnut, had the body

exhumed and thrown into the mud of the marsh round Thorney—“into a

fen,” says the _Chronicle_. Thorney stood in a fen, and it is not

likely that the new king would desire his savage deed—yet, was it

more savage than the acts of Charles II. at the Restoration?—to be

concealed. One knows not how many tides ebbed and flowed over the body

of the dead king as it lay among the reeds; but presently some—perhaps

the monks—taking pity on the poor remains put them into a boat,

carried them down the river, and buried them in the little church of

St. Clement’s, which, like Thorney, stood on the rising ground of the

Strand. And there his dust lies still.

Hardacnut fell down in a fit—“as he stood at his drink”—at Kennington

Palace, having crossed over from Westminster to attend a wedding feast.

He was buried at Winchester with his father. But before he was well

buried the people had chosen, at London, his half-brother, Edward, as

king.

[Illustration: The Plan of BORSTAL.

KING EDWARD THE CONFESSOR’S PALACE AT BORSTAL (BRILL)

From _Archæologia_, vol. iii.]

The reign of Edward the Confessor brought little change to London.

The Danish pirates renewed their attacks, but there was now a fleet

well equipped to meet them. The head-quarters of the fleet were at

London, or at Westminster. It is said that when Earl Godwin made his

demonstration, which threatened rebellion, he passed through the south

arches of London Bridge, designing to meet and attack the royal fleet

of fifty sail lying at Westminster. It is noticeable that he first

assured himself of the goodwill of the City.

A statute of Edward the Confessor (forty-sixth chapter of his laws),

in which he appoints the time for holding the hustings, thus speaks of

London, and is quoted in the _Liber Albus_:—

“Therefore in London, which is the head of the realm and of the

laws, and always the Court of his lordship the King, the Hustings

ought to sit and be holden on the Monday in each week. For it was

formerly founded after the pattern and manner, and in remembrance,

of Great Troy, and to the present day contains within itself the

laws and ordinances, dignities, liberties, and royal customs, of an

ancient Greek Troy. In this place therefore are kept the intricate

accounts, and the difficult pleas of the Crown, and the Courts of his

lordship the King for all the realm aforesaid. And she alone ever doth

invariably preserve her own usages and customs, wherever such King may

be, whether upon an expedition or elsewhere, by reason of the tumults

of the nations and peoples of the realm: in accordance with the ancient

customs of our good forefathers and predecessors, and of all the

princes, nobles, and wise seniors of all the realm aforesaid.”

In the year 1065 King Edward the Confessor sets forth the history of

Westminster as he understood it:—

“Wherefore”—after a general introduction—“I, by the Grace of God King

of the English, make it known to all generations to come of time after

me, that, by instruction of Pope Leo for penitence and the remission

of my sins I have renewed and improved the Basilica of Saint Peter

which is situated near the walls of London, the chief city of the

English, and on the west side of it, is called Westminster. It was

built anciently by Mellitus, first bishop of London, companion and

friend of Saint Augustus, first bishop of Canterbury, and by Saint

Peter, himself performing an angelic task, and was dedicated by the

impression of the Holy Cross and the smearing of the Holy Chrism:

but by frequent invasions of barbarians and especially of the Danes

(who in the lifetime of my father Ethelred had made an irruption into

the kingdom, and after his death divided the kingdom with my brother

Eadmund and captured and killed my brother Alfred miserably) was

neglected and nearly destroyed.”

I do not know how long a time was necessary for the complete absorption

of the Danes among the general population: but there are memories of

Danish settlements around St. Clement Danes and outside Bishopsgate

Street—perhaps the existence of such a settlement may account for the

burial of King Harold in the church of St. Clement.

The Danes, therefore, occupied London first for a period of twelve

years. We do not expect to find any remains of that brief occupation:

and indeed there are none. When Cnut and his sons were kings they

ruled, but did not occupy, the City for some five-and-twenty years.

We might expect some remains of that period. If Cnut built the King’s

House at Westminster, then the vaults and crypts which were filled

with cement when the Houses of Parliament were built were probably his

work, and the Painted Chamber destroyed by fire in 1835 was also his

work. Otherwise there is nothing, not a stone or a fragment, which we

can recognise as Danish work. One little relic alone remains. During

excavations for a warehouse in the south side of St. Paul’s Churchyard

there was found a Danish gravestone inscribed with Runic characters,

probably of the tenth or eleventh century. It is now in the Guildhall

Museum.

CHAPTER VI

TOWN AND PEOPLE

[Illustration: A SOLAR

From Turner’s _Domestic Architecture_.]

Such is the history of London from the beginning of the seventh century

to the third quarter of the eleventh century. We have next to consider—

1. The appearance of the town and the nature of the buildings.

2. The trade of the town.

3. The religious foundations.

4. The temporal government.

5. The manners and customs of the people.

I. THE APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN

[Illustration: BUILDING A HOUSE

Cædmon’s _Metrical Paraphrase_ (10th cent.), Bodleian.]

If there had been any persons living to remember Augusta when the army

of King Alfred took possession of the place, then, indeed, they would

have shed tears, while standing on the rickety wooden bridge, to behold

the shrunken and mean town which had taken the place of that stately

City: to consider the ruins of noble houses; to see how trees grew upon

the crumbling wall; to mark how great gaps showed the site of City

gates; how broad stretches of ground lay waste, where once had stood

the Roman villas. After a year or two, when the wall was repaired,

and people flocked again to the “mart of all nations,” the aspect of

the City improved. The stones of old erections—those above ground—had

been used to repair the City wall; new gates had been built and the

old gates had been restored; the quay was once more covered with

merchandise, and the river was again filled with shipping—among the

vessels was the king’s fleet maintained to keep off the Danes. The town

behind the quays was rebuilt of wood—within two hundred years it was

five times either wholly, or in great part, destroyed by fire. There

were no palaces or great houses; some few had the great hall for the

living-room and for the sleeping-room of servants and children, with

the “Solar” or the chamber of the lord and lady, the Lady’s Bower, and

the kitchens (see also p. 224).

After the time of Alfred, London rapidly advanced in prosperity and

wealth. The restoration of the wall was recognised as an outward and

visible sign of the security enjoyed by those who slept within it:

trade increased; the wealth of the people increased; their numbers

increased, because they were safe. Stone buildings began to be erected,

and the outward signs of prosperity appeared. London threw out long

arms within her walls. The vacant grounds, the orchards and fields

and gardens began to be built over. Artificers of the meaner kind and

trades of an offensive kind were banished to the north part of the

town. The lower parts, especially the narrow lanes north of Thames

Street, became more and more crowded. Quays under the river wall

extended east and west; the foreshore was built upon; the river wall

was gradually taken down, but I know not when its destruction began

or was permitted. The shipping in the river was doubled and trebled

in amount; some of the ships lying off the quays were too large to

pass the bridge; the warehouses became more ample; Thames Street, or

the street behind the wall, then the only place of meeting for the

merchants, was thronged every day with the busy crowd of those who

loaded and unloaded, who came to buy and to sell. The ports of the

Walbrook and Billingsgate being found insufficient, that of Queen

Hithe, then called Edred’s Hithe, was constructed: quays were built

round it, and perhaps a new gate was formed in the river wall.

[Illustration: OCTOBER. HAWKING

From _The Old English Calendars_ (11th cent.), Cotton MS.]

In the year 981, Fabyan says (p. 128) that a fire destroyed a great

part of the City of London.

“But ye shall understand that at this day, the City of London had most

housing and buylding from Ludgate toward Westmynster, and little or

none where the Chiefe or hart of the Citie is at this day, except in

divers places where housing be they stood without order, so that many

towns and cities, as Canterbury, Yorke, and other, divers in England

passed London in building at those days, as I have seen and known by

an old book in the Guildhall named Domesday.”

I quote this passage but cannot give credence to the statement, for

the simple reason that London was always a place of trade, and that

where her shipping and her quays and ports lay, there were her people

gathered together. Probably at this time the northern parts of the

City were not yet built over and occupied. But how could the City

successfully hold her own against the Danes if her people lived along

Fleet Street and the Strand?

A very important question arises as to the rights of the citizens over

the lands lying around the City.

[Illustration: A BANQUET

Prudentius MS., 24199 (11th cent.).]

If we consider, for instance, the county of Middlesex, we observe that

it is bounded by the river Colne on the west and by the Lea on the

east. The Thames is its southern march: that of the north was partly

defined by the manors belonging to St. Albans Abbey in after times. The

whole of the northern part, however, was covered with a vast forest

which extended far on either side of Middlesex, and especially into

Essex. Another forest occupied the greater part of Surrey, beginning

with wastes and heaths as soon as the land rose out of the marsh.

Some kind of right over these forests, and especially over that in

the north, which was especially easy of access, was necessary for the

City, as much as its rights over the river. For as the river was full

of fish and the marshy river-side was full of innumerable birds, so

the forest was full of game—deer, boar, hares, rabbits, and every kind

of creature to be hunted and trapped and to serve as food. Also the

forest furnished timber for building purposes, a feeding-ground for

hogs, and wood and charcoal for fuel. The City would not exist without

rights over the forest.

If we ask what these rights were, we find that London certainly claimed

possession of some lands. Thus in the _A.S. Chronicle_ it is stated

that in the year 912 “King Edward took possession of London and of

Oxford, _and all the lands which owed obedience thereto_.” What were

these lands? Surely they lay outside the wall.

In the laws of Athelstan, injunctions are laid down for the pursuit of

thieves “beyond the March.” What was the March?

In the laws of Cnut the right of every man to hunt over his own land is

recognised.

And in Henry the First’s Charter we find the clause, “And the citizens

of London shall have their chaces to hunt, as well and fully as their

ancestors have had: that is to say, in Chiltre, and in Middlesex, and

in Surrey” (see p. 279).

In the same Charter, which was avowedly a recognition of old rights, he

gives them the county of Middlesex, with which was included the City of

London, “to farm” for the annual payment of £300 a year.

From all of which it appears that the county of Middlesex had been

regarded as including London, and, in a sense, a part of London, and

that a large part of its lands “owed obedience” to London. In that part

the citizens could hunt, just as they could fish in the river and trap

birds in the river-side marshes.

II. THE TRADE OF THE TOWN

The early trade of London can be approximately arrived at by taking

into consideration (1) that London was the principal receiving,

distributing, and exporting place; (2) what it had to sell; and (3)

what it wanted to buy.

Nearly everything that was wanted was made on the farms and in the

towns. On the farms, the butter, cheese, bread, beer, bacon, were

prepared; the grain was grown and ground; the fruit and vegetables were

grown in the gardens; the honey was taken from the hives; spinning,

weaving, carpentering, clothing, shoemaking were all carried on in the

house. Nothing that could be made in the house was bought; nothing that

could be made in the house was exposed for sale in the market. What,

then, did the people want, and what did they buy? First, they wanted,

as necessities, metal for working, weapons, knives, and utensils. Next

they wanted salt. Iron and salt were the two absolute necessities of

life that could be obtained only by purchase or by barter. If we pass

on to luxuries, the wealthier class drank foreign wine in addition to

home-made beer, cider, and metheglin; they dressed in foreign silk;

they used gold and silver cups, which were made by London goldsmiths;

they imported foreign glass; spices brought from _outre-mer_; and

weapons made abroad of finer temper and better workmanship than their

own. The Church wanted ecclesiastical vestments, pictures, incense, and

gold and silver vessels. All these things the City had to offer and to

sell. For purposes of purchase or of exchange the City was prepared to

buy slaves, wool, metal, corn, and cattle. All over the country the

people bred slaves and sold them; they sent to London large quantities

of wool; they also sent lead, tin, iron, jet, fish, and cattle. And

there was a great demand among the foreign merchants, though there was

but a small supply, for the lovely embroidery of the Anglo-Saxon women,

and for the beautiful goldwork of the Anglo-Saxon goldsmiths. The

position of the goldsmiths in London, where they were the richest and

most important citizens, proves that there was more than a home demand

for their work. The words used for the arts and for many articles of

common use show that they were at first imported, and from a nation

where the Latin language was largely used. Common objects, such as

candle, pin, wine, oil; names of weights and measures; names of coins

are also derived from Roman sources. Wright’s theory that the people in

the cities spoke Latin, and that the Saxon gradually became amalgamated

with the people in the cities before the grand irruption may account

for the survival of Latin names for common objects. One means of

introducing these words may have been the communication kept up by the

Church with the Continent, and especially between the monasteries of

England and France.

[Illustration: SAXON LADIES

Royal MS. 2, B. vii.]

That the trade of London was large and constantly increasing is

certain. The abundance of gold in the country is instanced by the

wealth of the shrines and the monasteries, and the importance and value

of the exports. Sharon Turner[23] sums up this advance in trade in such

general terms as I have indicated:—

“The property of the landholders gradually multiplied in permanent

articles raised from their animals, quarries, mines, and woods; in

their buildings, their furniture, their warlike stores, their leather

apparatus, glass, pigments, vessels and costly dresses. An enlarged

taste for finery and novelty spread as their comforts multiplied.

Foreign wares were valued and sought for; and what Anglo-Saxon toil

or labour could produce, to supply the wants or gratify the fancies

of foreigners, was taken out to barter. All these things gave so

many channels of nutrition to those who had no lands, by presenting

them with opportunities for obtaining the equivalents on which their

subsistence depended. As the bullion of the country increased,

it became, either coined or uncoined, the general and permanent

equivalent. As it could be laid up without deterioration, and was

always operative when it once became in use, the abundance of society

increased, because no one hesitated to exchange his property for it.

Until coin became the medium of barter, most would hesitate to part

with the productions they had reared, and all classes suffered from

the desire of hoarding. Coin or bullion released the commodities that

all society wanted, from individual fear, prudence, or covetousness,

that would for its own uses have withheld them, and sent them

floating through society in ten thousand ever-dividing channels. The

Anglo-Saxons were in this happy state. Bullion, as we have remarked,

sufficiently abounded in the country, and was in full use in exchange

for all things. In every reign after Athelstan the trade and employment

of the country increased.”

[Illustration: SAXON HORN]

The principal work of London was that of collecting and distributing.

The port was the centre to and from which the whole business of the

country came and went. It was the king’s part to maintain the high

roads, but the Roman skill in road-making was lost; branching off

from the highways, in connection with the villages, were tracks

through the forests and over the moors. It is an indication of the old

spirit of tribal separation that merely to be seen on such a track was

suspicious. “... If a far coming man or a stranger journey through a

wood out of the highway, and neither shout nor blow his horn, he is

to be held a thief and either to be slain or redeemed.” Many of the

monasteries lay far outside the high road and in the midst of woods;

they were apparently in communication with the world by the medium of

streams and rivers. Tintern, Fountains, Dryburgh, Crowland, Ely, for

instance, stood beside streams or rivers.

[Illustration: MERCHANTMEN WITH HORSES AND CAMELS

Harl. MS., 603.]

There is abundant evidence as to the extent of the trade carried

on in the port of London. There were merchants from Gotland,

that strangely-placed emporium of eastern and northern commerce.

Thousands of coins have been found on the island—Roman, Byzantine,

and Anglo-Saxon, giving evidence of the wealth and enterprise of the

merchants, who conducted their caravans across Russia and their ships

from the Baltic to the German Ocean and the shores of the Bay of

Biscay. We hear of Frisian merchants trading to “Lunden tunes Hythe”

in the seventh century. The Norsemen were not all pirates. Othere

describes the trade with England in skins of bear, marten, otter,

reindeer, in eider-down and whalebone; in ropes made of whale and

sealskin. In Ethelred’s laws we read of Frisians, called Flandrenses,

of the men of the Emperor, men of Rouen, of Normandy, and of France.

It would seem that the greater part of the foreign trade remained

in the hands of the foreign merchants, but not all. Athelstan

conferred the rank of Thane on one who had voyaged three times to the

Mediterranean. And in the _Dialogues_ of Ælfric we have the English

merchant’s own account of himself and his trade:—

“I say that I am useful to the king and to ealder men and to the rich

and to all people. I ascend my ship with my merchandise and I sail over

the sea and sell my things and buy dear things which are not produced

in this land, and I bring them to you here with great danger over the

sea: and sometimes I suffer shipwreck, with the loss of all these

things, scarcely escaping myself. ‘What do you bring to _us_?’ ‘Skins,

silks, costly gems, and gold; curious garments, pigments, wine, oil,

ivory and orichalcous; copper and tin, silver, glass, and such like.’”

The voyage of ships from the south and the south-east to London was

much safer than we should expect for such small craft as then formed

the trading vessels—short, unwieldy, carrying a single mast and a

single sail. The ships bound for London hugged the shore round the

South Foreland and then, instead of sailing round the North Foreland,

they passed into the estuary of the Thames by the shallow arm of the

sea called the Wantsum, which there divided Thanet from the mainland

and made it an island. At either end of this passage the Romans had

constructed a fortress: that on the north called Regulbium, now

Reculver; that on the south Rutupiæ;, now Richborough. The latter stood

upon a small island separated from the mainland by a narrow channel.

The site of Sandwich was another islet lying south of Rutupiæ. The

passage was kept open partly by the flow of two or three rivers into

it from the highlands of Kent. It gradually, however, silted up and

shrank; yet ships continued to pass by this channel until the sixteenth

century, when it became too shallow for the lightest ships. The Wantsum

must be borne in mind whenever one speaks of early navigation to and

from the port of London, because it saved the ships from the rough and

dangerous passage round the North Foreland.

The business of distribution, collection of exports, and internal

traffic was conducted entirely by English merchants. Every year the

chapman started on his rounds. He set out with his caravan of horses

laden with goods and conducted by a troop of servants, all armed for

defence against robbers; the roads were cleared of wood and undergrowth

on either side to prevent an ambush—they were the old Roman roads, many

of which still continue; the antiquarian is pleased to find evidences

here and there of a road decayed and not repaired, but deflected by

an easier way. Where there were no Roman roads there were tracks and

bridlepaths; forests covered the country, and even in summer there

was danger of quagmires and bogs. The chapman rode not from village to

village, or from house to house, but from one market-place to another,

reporting himself to the Reeve on his arrival. When the season was

over, when he had sold or exchanged his stock, he returned to London,

his caravan now loaded with wool, skins, and metals for export, and

perhaps with a company of miserable slaves to be sold across the seas.

[Illustration: A BANQUET

Royal MS. 2, B. vii.]

The Gilds or Guilds, out of which sprang so great a number of trade

corporations and companies, are met with very early. We shall have

to consider this subject later on; let us note here, however, that

the actual rules of many early Guilds have survived. They were not

trades unions: that is, they did not exist for the purpose of keeping

up prices and wages. They were essentially social, even convivial in

character; they were benefit societies; and they were religious. We

have the complete code of the “Frith Guild” of London under Athelstan.

The laws are drawn up by the Bishop and the Reeve. The members, who

were numerous, met together once a month for social purposes; they

feasted and drank together; when a member died each brother gave

a loaf, and sang, or paid for singing, fifty psalms. There was an

insurance fund to which every member contributed fourpence in order to

make good the losses incurred by the members; they also paid a shilling

towards thief-catching; they were divided into companies of ten and

into groups of hundreds; each company and each group had its own

officer. The pursuit and the conviction of thieves were the principal

objects of this Guild. In a commercial city theft or the destruction of

property is the crime which is most held in abhorrence by the citizens.

There was a Guild of another kind, peculiar, apparently, to the City

of London. It was called the Cnihten Guild (see p. 329). We shall have

occasion to speak of this Guild at greater length farther on. For the

present it is enough to say that it was in all probability—for its laws

have perished—an association bound together by religious forms and vows

for the defence of the City—the “Cnihten” were in fact the officers of

the City militia, which consisted of all the able-bodied citizens; they

were trustees for the funds collected for the purpose of providing arms

for the citizens; they administered an estate belonging to the town

called the Portsoken, lying outside Aldgate, whose rents were received

and set aside, or expended in the repair of gates and walls, as well as

providing arms.

[Illustration: GLASTONBURY ABBEY]

Attempts have been made to derive the Anglo-Saxon Guilds from the Roman

_collegia_. It is not impossible, supposing that the imitation came

through Gaul. At the same time, the points of resemblance on which the

theory rests are so extremely slight that one is not disposed to accept

it as proved. That is to say, they are points of resemblance such as

naturally belong to every association of men made for purposes of

mutual support and for the maintenance of common interests. Thus:—

1. Under the Roman Empire there existed _collegia privata_,

associations of men bound together for trade purposes.

2. They were established by legal rights.

3. They were divided into bodies of ten and a hundred.

4. They were presided over by a _magister_ and _decuriones_—a President

and a Council.

5. They had their Treasurer and their Sub-Treasurer.

6. They could hold property in their corporate capacity.

7. They had their temples at which they sacrificed.

8. They had their meeting-houses.

9. They had a common sheet.

10. They had _jus sodalitii_, the laws, rights, and duties of the

members.

11. They admitted members on oath.

12. They supported their poor.

13. The members had to pay contributions and subscriptions.

14. They buried their dead publicly.

15. Each had its day of celebration or feast.

[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON NUNS

Prudentius MS., 24199 (11th cent.).]

Now, suppose we found among the Chinese or the ancient Mexicans

institutions with similar laws, should we be justified in claiming a

Roman origin for them? Not at all. We should merely note the facts,

and should acknowledge that humanity being common to every age and

every country, such rules must be laid down and maintained by every

such association as a Company or Guild in the interests of any trade

or mystery. So far and no farther the Anglo-Saxon Guild is a copy of

the Roman _collegium_. Unless further points of resemblance are found,

we shall be justified in believing that the Guild was not derived by

the Saxon from the Roman, and that the latter was not preserved among

the provincial towns of England. Against the theory it may also be

argued that if it was so preserved, every Guild being separated from

every other could develop on independent lines, and that some of the

Roman names at least would be preserved, and some of the Roman customs,

apart, that is, from the customs common to every such association in

every age and in every country.

III. THE RELIGIOUS FOUNDATIONS

[Illustration: CONFERRING THE TONSURE

Harl. MS., Roll Y. 6.]

The religious spirit, which has always been found among the Teutonic

peoples, was strongly manifested in the Saxon as soon as he became

converted. He multiplied monasteries and churches; all over the country

arose monastic houses; Bede mentions nineteen of them, including those

of Ely, Whitby, Iona, Melrose, Lindisfarne, and Beverley. He does not,

however, include Westminster, Romsey, Barking, or Crowland. Kings,

queens, princesses, and nobles, all went into monasteries and took the

vows; partly, no doubt, from fear of losing their souls, but partly,

it is certain, from the desire to enjoy the quiet life, free from the

never-ending troubles of the world; free also from its temptations and

from its attractions. The monastery provided peace in this world and

bliss in the world to come. It has been too much the custom to deride

the rule and the discipline, the daily services, the iteration that

made prayer and praise a mere mechanical routine. Yet it is easy to

understand the kind of mind on whom this deadening effect would be

produced. It is also easy to understand the kind of mind to which a

rigid rule would be like a prop and a crutch on life’s pilgrimage; to

which daily services, nightly services, perpetual services, would be so

many steps by which the soul was climbing upwards. Again, to a harassed

king, arrived, after many years of struggle and battle, at middle

age or old age, think how such a house, lying in woods remote, among

marshes inaccessible, would seem a very haven of rest! Or again, to

the princess who had suffered the violent and premature deaths of her

brothers, her father, most of her people; who remembered the tears and

grief of her widowed mother; who had passed through the bereavements

which made life dreadful in a time of perpetual war; how admirable

would it seem to preserve her virginity even in marriage, and, as soon

as might be, to retire into the safety and the peace of the nunnery!

[Illustration: A BURIAL

Cædmon’s _Metrical Paraphrase_ (10th cent.), Bodleian Library.]

In the year 731, the year of his death, Bede wrote: “Such being the

peaceable and calm disposition of the time, many of the Northumbrians,

as well of the nobility as of private persons, laying down their

weapons, do rather incline to dedicate themselves and their children to

the tonsure and monastic vows than to study martial discipline. What

will be the end thereof the next age will show.”

The next age did show very remarkably what happens to a country which

puts its boys into monasteries. In the next age the people continued

still to flock into the monasteries; they not only deserted their

duties and their homes, they also deserted their country; they flocked

in crowds on pilgrimage to Rome as to a very holy place; noble and

ignoble, laity and clergy, men and women, not only went on pilgrimage,

but went to Rome in order to die there. Those who could neither take

the monastic vows nor die at Rome put on the monastic garb before they

died.

Anglo-Saxon London, during the eighth century, thus became profoundly

religious, and although the history of the time is full of violence, it

is also full of exhortations to the better life. The Bishops constantly

ordered the reading of the Gospels. Every priest, especially, was

to study the Holy Book out of which to preach and teach. The modern

spirit of an Anglo-Saxon sermon is most remarkable, and this in spite

of the superstitions in which the time was plunged. The churches, for

instance, were crammed with relics; perhaps the people regarded them

as we regard collections in a museum. Here were kept pieces of the

sacred manger, of the true Cross, of the burning bush, of St. Peter’s

beard, of Mary Magdalene’s finger. There were also the popular beliefs

about witchcraft. The priests inveighed against witches—“that the

dead should rise through devil-skill or witchcraft is very abominable

to our Saviour; they who exercise such crafts are God’s enemies and

truly belong to the deceitful Devil.” The priests were also zealous

in forbidding and in stamping out all heathen survivals, such as

fountain worship, incantations of the dead, omens, magic, man worship,

the abominations practised in various sorts of witchcraft, worship

of elms and other trees, of stones, and other “phantoms.” Long after

Christianity had covered the land, the people practised their old

incantations for the cure of disease, for good luck in enterprise,

against poisons, disease, and battle. They had a thousand omens and

prognostics; days were lucky or unlucky; days were good or bad for this

or that kind of business—it is within living men’s recollection that

Almanacks were published for ourselves giving the lucky and the unlucky

days—those beliefs are hardest to destroy which are superstitious

and irrational and absurd. Are we not living still in a mass of

superstitious belief? It is sufficient to record that the Saxons were

as superstitious as our grandfathers—even as superstitious as ourselves.

It is interesting to note the simple and beautiful piety of Bede and

other Anglo-Saxon writers, and to mark the extraordinary credulity with

which they relate marvels and miracles. Every doctrine had to be made

intelligible, and explained and enforced by a special miracle. Take,

for instance, the doctrine of the efficacy of masses for the dead. Who

could continue in doubt upon the subject after such testimony as the

following? Who can argue against a miracle?

In the year 679—only a few years before the history was written—a

battle was fought near the river Trent between Egfrith, King of the

Northumbrians, and Ethelred, King of the Mercians. There was left for

dead on the field of battle one Imma, a youth belonging to the king.

This young man presently recovered, and binding up his wound tried to

escape unseen from the field. Being captured, however, he was taken

to one of Ethelred’s earls. Being afraid of owning himself for what

he was, he said he was a peasant who had brought provisions for the

army. The earl ordered him to be cared for and properly entertained

as a prisoner. Now he had a brother called Tunna, a priest, and the

Abbot of a monastery. This priest heard that Imma was dead, and went

to search for his body on the field of battle. He presently found one

so like that of his brother that, carrying it to the monastery, he

buried it and said masses for the soul. Now when Imma had recovered

of his wounds, the earl ordered him to be bound so that he should not

escape. Lo! as fast as the bonds were laid upon him they were loosened.

The earl suspected witchcraft; he was assured by Imma that he knew

no spells. Being pressed, however, he confessed who and what he was,

viz. no peasant, but a soldier belonging to King Egfrith. Then the

earl carried him to London and there sold him as a slave to a certain

Frisian, who bound him with new fetters. But at the third hour of the

morning they all fell off; and so every morning; wherefore the Frisian,

not knowing what to do with this miraculous slave, allowed him to

return on promise of sending his ransom. Now when Imma conversed with

his brother, he discovered that the loosening of his bonds had been

miraculously effected in answer to the masses said for his soul.

[Illustration: SAXON CHURCH AT GREENSTEAD]

The ravages of the Danes in the eighth and ninth centuries destroyed

most of the monasteries. For, at first, being heathens, they rejoiced

in the destruction and pillage of holy houses and churches, which

were rich, full of precious things in gold and silver, embroidery,

pearls and gems, silks and fine stuffs. Wearmouth, they destroyed,

also Jarrow, Tynemouth, Coldingham, Crowland, Peterborough. When the

destroyers retired, those of the monks who had escaped murder timidly

came back. Crowland Abbey, for instance, found itself reduced to the

Abbot and two monks.

When Alfred had restored peace, he tried to renew some of the

monasteries, but failed; no one would become a monk. With nunneries

he succeeded better, founding one at Shaftesbury and one at

Winchester. Glastonbury, in the time of Dunstan, was served by Irish

priests. In the precinct of Paul’s Minster there was a college—St.

Martin’s-le-Grand was a college; but there was in London at this time

neither monastery nor nunnery. Why?

It may be explained on the ground that at the time when the great zeal

for monasteries moved the hearts of the people there was comparative

peace in the land, and it was sought to build a religious house far

away from what were thought to be the disturbing influences of a town.

For instance, St. Erkenwald, Bishop of London, founded two houses,

but placed neither in London; one of these he built at Barking down

the river, the other at Chertsey up the river. Other instances occur.

Romsey, Crowland, Medehamsted (Peterborough), Lindisfarne, Iona, Ely,

Glastonbury, not to speak of many later foundations, were placed in

quiet retreats far from the busy world. Westminster, it is true, was

built on an island once populous and lying on the highway of trade;

but the earlier foundation was destroyed by the Danes, and Edward’s

House arose long after the highway had been turned aside and most of

the trade diverted. Still, Westminster was never remote from the haunts

of men, and it may be observed that when the foundation of new houses

began they were erected in and around London itself, with no thought

of seclusion. Again, when the Danish troubles came upon the land and

the monasteries were sacked, for many years the monastic life became

impossible; the old desire for it entirely vanished, and long years

passed before it awakened again. When it did, monastic houses were

founded within the walls of London, or close beneath the protection

of the walls, as at St. Mary Overies and Bermondsey and Aldgate. The

Danish pillage was not forgotten.

Another explanation of the absence of monastic houses in Saxon London

may be the fact, which one is apt to overlook, that every Minster was

provided with a college, or a monastic house where the priests—not

monks—lived the common life, though not yet the celibate life; where

they had a school and where they brought up boys for the Church. In

_Domesday Book_ there are no lands owned by religious houses in London

except by the Church of St. Paul’s, which had lands in Essex and

elsewhere; by certain individual canons, the Bishop of London, who

had lands in Middlesex, Hertford, and Essex; and by the Church of St.

Martin’s, the Abbey of Westminster, and the Abbey of Barking.

[Illustration: ST. DUNSTAN

Claud MS., A. iii.]

The churches of London, with the houses, were at first built of wood.

You may see a Saxon church, such as those which were dotted all over

the City area, still standing at Greenstead, near Chipping Ongar,

in Essex (see p. 211). When the houses began to be built of stone,

the churches followed suit; you may see a stone Saxon church at

Bradford-on-Avon, near Bath. The churches were quite small at first,

and continued to be small for many centuries. They were by degrees

provided with glass, with richly decorated altars, with chapels and

with organs: in the last respect being better off than their successors

in the eighteenth century, when many City churches had no organ. Bede

describes an organ as a “kind of tower made with various pipes, from

which, by the blowing of bellows, a most copious sound is issued; and

that a becoming modulation may accompany this, it is furnished with

certain wooden tongues from the interior part, which the master’s

fingers skilfully repressing, produce a grand and almost a sweet

melody.”

And Dunstan, who was a great artificer in metals as well as a great

painter, constructed for himself an organ of brass pipes.

It is interesting to gather, from the dedications of the City churches,

those which certainly date from Saxon times. Thus there are five

dedicated to Allhallows, of which four are certainly ancient; of the

churches dedicated to Apostles, there are two of St. Andrew, three of

St. Bartholomew, one of St. James, one of St. Paul, three of St. Peter,

one of St. Stephen, four of St. Mary, one of Mary Magdalene; of later

saints, St. Martin, St. Bridget, St. Benedict, St. Anne, St. Clement,

St. Giles are represented, while Saxon or Danish saints are found in

St. Ethelburga, St. Swithin, St. Botolph, St. Olave, St. Magnus, St.

Vedast, and St. Dunstan. None of the Norman saints seem to have crossed

the water. None, certainly, supplanted the Saxon saints, while not one

British saint remained in Saxon England, which shows how different was

the Norman Conquest from the Saxon occupation.

If ecclesiastical law means anything, then the London citizen must

have spent most of his time in doing penance. Besides the common

crimes of violence, perjury, theft, and so forth, the Church advanced

the doctrine that there were eight capital crimes, namely, pride,

vainglory, envy, anger, despondency, avarice, greed, and luxury.

For greed a man had to fast and do penance for three years. For

despondency, he had to fast on bread and water till he became once more

exhilarated.

The chief weapon of the Church at a time when the executive is weak

is penance. For the Anglo-Saxon his priest was armed with a code of

penances so long and so heavy that one cannot believe that it was ever

enforced. Can we, for instance, believe that free men would consent

to live on the coarsest food and do penance for three years as a

punishment for eating with too great enjoyment? We are told that if a

man killed any one in public battle he was to fast forty nights. Then

King Alfred must have been doing penance all the days of his life—which

is absurd. Again, can one believe that sinners consented to wear iron

chains round the body, to lie naked at the feet of the person offended,

to go about with a rope round their necks, to abstain from water, hot

or cold? Can we believe that any one, especially any rich or noble

person, would sell his estate, give one-third to the poor, one-third to

the clergy, and keep no more than one-third for himself and his family?

Penance, however, could be commuted by payments in money. This shows,

not the greed and avarice of the Church, but the weakness of the

Church. Another way of getting through penance was by paying people

to perform the penance for the sinner. Thus, a man who was ordered a

thirty-six days’ fast could engage twelve men to fast for three days

each. Or if he was ordered a year’s fast, he would arrange for 120 men

to fast, in the same way, for three days each. As I said above, it is

the weakness of the Church that one perceives. The Bishops denounced

crime; they showed the people how grievous a sin was this or that,

by imposing heavy penance; then because only a few would consent to

perform such penances, they were obliged to be content with evasions

and vicarious performance. As the Church grew stronger, penance became

more reasonable.

[Illustration: THE LAST DAY

Nero MS. C IV.]

There was a church in nearly every street, and a parish to every

church. Some of the churches were built as an act of penance. We are

sometimes tempted to believe that the power of the Church must have

been an intolerable tyranny; yet the violence of the time called for

the exercise of arbitrary authority, and, at the very worst, it was

better to be in the hands of the Church than in those of the King.

IV. THE TEMPORAL GOVERNMENT

In the administration of the City, the Bishop and the Portreeve were

the two principal officers; the former represented more than the

ecclesiastical life, because the Church governed the life of every

man at every step in his pilgrimage from the cradle to the grave. The

Portreeve was the king’s officer: he looked after customs, dues, tolls,

etc. The port is neither “Porta,” the gate; nor “Portus,” the harbour;

it is “Portus,” the enclosed space: “Portus est conclusus locus quo

importantur merces et inde exportantur” (Thorpe, 1. 158). The Portreeve

was the civil magistrate, as the Bishop was the ecclesiastical. Other

officers were the “Tungerefa,” or Tunreeve, whose business it was to

inquire into the payment of custom dues. The “Caccepol” (Catchpole), or

Beadle, was perhaps a collector. And there were the Jurats or Jurors,

called sometimes _testes credibiles_, who acted as witnesses in every

case of bargain or sale. The laws of Edgar said: “Let every one of

them on his first election as a witness take an oath that neither for

profit, nor for fear, nor for favour, will he ever deny that which he

did witness, nor affirm aught but what he did see and hear. And let

there be two or three such sworn men as witnesses to every bargain.”

The “Wic-reeve” is also mentioned, but this is probably only another

name for Town-reeve. He is mentioned in an edict issued by two Kentish

kings, Hlothhere and Edric (673-685). “If any Kentish man buy a

chattel in Lundewic, let him have two or three witnesses or a king’s

wic-reeve.” Wright takes this officer to have been one appointed by the

Kings of Kent to look after their interests in a town belonging to the

Kings of Essex. Why should it not mean simply the reeve of the port,

_i.e._ the reeve of the Kings of Essex? “If it be afterwards claimed

of the man in Kent, let him then vouch the man who sold it him, or the

wic at the king’s hall.” Criminals were tried in open court by their

fellows. They might be acquitted by the oaths of those who had known

them long. If they were found guilty, the punishments were cruel: they

were deprived of hands, feet, tongue, eyes; women were hurled from

cliffs into the river, or burned; floggings were inflicted. Ordeals

were practised—that of the “corsned,” or consecrated barley-bread,

which only the innocent could swallow;—this ordeal was supposed to

have killed Earl Godwin; that of cold water, that of hot water, that

of hot iron. Not, however, the ordeal by battle. Of all other ordeals

the event was uncertain: in that by battle one or the other had to die.

The citizen of the tenth century had the greatest possible objection to

such an ordeal. Later on, under Norman rule, he protested continually

against this liability, until the King conceded his freedom from it.

[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON MODES OF PUNISHMENT

Claud MS., B. iv.]

[Illustration: THE FLOGGING OF A SLAVE

Harl. MS., 603.]

The Anglo-Saxon laws are simply amazing as regards the punishments

ordered for those offenders who were of servile rank. Their savage

cruelty shows that the masters were afraid of the slaves. If a slave

woman stole anything she might be whipped unmercifully, thrown into

prison, and kept there; thrown over a precipice, drowned, or even

burned to death. In the last case she was to be burned by eighty other

women slaves, every one of whom was to contribute a log towards the

fire. If a man slave committed a similar offence he might be stoned

to death by eighty other slaves, and if one of those eighty missed

his mark three times he was to be flogged. Since, however, slaves

cost money, and were valuable property, it is not probable that they

were often destroyed for slight offences. On the other hand, they

were cruelly flogged. A small drawing in a contemporary MS. shows the

flogging of a slave. He is stripped naked; his left foot is confined

by a circle; two men are flogging him with thorny handles. The cruelty

of the punishment, thus brought home to one, seems atrocious. But

flogging was not the worst or the most cruel punishment. Every kind

of mutilation was practised in ways almost unspeakable. Mutilation,

indeed, was continued as a punishment long after the Conquest. We

shall see, for instance how Henry I. punished the “moneyers” who had

debased the coin by striking off their right hands and depriving them

of their manhood. Eyelids were cut off, noses, lips, ears, hands,

feet; the victims of this barbarity were to be seen on every road

in every town. Those who were not slaves, but freemen, were, as a

rule, treated with far more clemency. First, for the man not taken

red-handed, there was the ordeal to which he might appeal. There was

next the “compurgation,” in which the accused had to find a sufficient

number of reputable persons to swear that he was not capable of the

offence charged. Or again, many offences could be cleared by penance,

and since penance included fasting, which is impossible for the weak

and the old, the repetition of prayers and singing of Psalms was

allowed as a substitute; and since these do no good except to the

penitent, compulsory almsgiving was further allowed as a substitute.

So that, although the Church attempted to make of the last mode of

punishment a real and substantial fine in proportion to the means of

the sinner, the natural, certain, and inevitable result followed:

that all crimes could be atoned for by those who could pay the fines,

and that in the Christian Church there was one law for the rich and

another for the poor. Also, as naturally followed in course of time,

it became customary to classify most crimes by a kind of tariff. Those

of violence, greed, and lust, which were common in an age of violence,

were priced at so much apiece. Those, however, of murder of kin, arson,

treason, witchcraft, were held “bootless,” _i.e._ not to be atoned for

by any fine. Then a very curious institution existed, called the Frank

pledge. Every man in the country belonged to a tithing or company of

ten; every company of ten belonged to a company of a hundred; every

crime had to be paid for by the tithing, or the hundred; thus it

happened in this way it was made the interest of every one that the

tithing or the hundred should be kept free from crime.

The punishment of women by drowning was practised in very early times

by the ancient Germans and Anglo-Saxons. It was continued down to the

middle of the fifteenth century, when it was finally, but not formally,

abolished. But women were drowned on the Continent in the eighteenth

century. The London places of execution were the Thames, and the pools

of St. Giles, Smithfield, St. Thomas Watering, and Tyburn. Sometimes

the criminal was sewn up in a sack with a snake, a dog, an ape—if one

could be procured—and a cock.

The right of taking a part in the government of his country was always

held and claimed by the Anglo-Saxon freeman. Thus in London, all causes

were tried, and all regulations for the ordering of the City were made,

by the citizens themselves in open court. The Hustings, a Danish Court,

was held once a week, on Monday. The Folkmote was held on occasion, and

not at stated times. The men were called together by the bell of St.

Paul’s, to Paul’s Cross; there, in a tumultuous assemblage, everything

was discussed, not without blows and even slaying or wounding, for

every man carried his knife. It was difficult to persuade the citizens

to meet without arms, because to carry no arms was the outward mark of

the slave; even the clergy carried arms. Only while performing penance

the freeman must lay aside his sword; and that, no doubt, was a greater

penalty than the fast. Another distinguishing mark of the freeman was

his long hair: the slaves had their hair cut close; the most shameful

punishment that could be inflicted on a free woman was to cut off her

hair.

Wright is of opinion that the existence of London was continuous,

and that it was never taken or sacked by the Saxons. We have seen

the evidence for the desertion of the City. He adduces the example

of Exeter, where English and Welsh continued to live on equal terms;

he acknowledges that this could only have been done by virtue of an

original composition with the English conquerors.

[Illustration: THREE MEN IN BED

Harl. MS., 603.]

He points out, however, apart from his theory, the very important fact

that London was in many respects a free commercial city, making laws

for itself and claiming privileges and concessions which imply claims

to the exercise of independent jurisdiction, notably in the law made by

the Bishop and Reeves of London for the citizens in the year 900. Such

powers the City certainly possessed and used at that and earlier times;

they were, however, powers not laid down by law, but assumed as the

occasion demanded, and neither disputed nor allowed by the King. Later

on, the citizens pretended to have possessed their privileges from the

first foundation of their City, which they carried back as far as the

foundation of Rome.

V. THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE

[Illustration: MOTHER AND CHILD

Cædmon’s _Metrical Paraphrase_ (10th cent.), Bodleian Library.]

As regards the poor of London, the laws relating to them were most

strict and clear. Everybody had to give to the Church the tenth part

of his possessions and incomings: the tithe, according to a law of

Ethelred, was to be divided into three equal parts, of which one was

to go to the maintenance of the church fabric—the altars, the service

of the church, and the offices belonging thereto; the second part was

to go to the priests; and the third part to “God’s poor and needy.”

Archbishop Egbert issued a canon to the same effect. King Edgar

enjoined the same division. And not only did tithes carry with them

this provision for the poor, but the faithful were also exhorted to

other almsgiving. For instance, if a man fasts, let him give to the

poor what he has saved by his abstinence; and if by reason of any

infirmity he is unable to fast, let him give to the poor instead.

Every church, every monastery, had its guest-house or poor-house,

where the poor were received and fed. Archbishop Wilfred, in 832, fed

daily, on his different manors, twenty-six poor men: to each he gave

yearly twenty-six pence for clothing; and on his anniversary he gave

twelve poor men each a loaf of bread and a cheese, and one penny. This

practice was continued after his death by endowments. In the same way

there were endowments for the poor at Canterbury, Ely, and elsewhere.

We must, therefore, remember that round every parish church in the City

of London there were gathered daily, for their share of the tenth part,

“God’s poor and needy”—the aged, the infirm, the afflicted—belonging to

that parish.

[Illustration:

_Augustin Rischgitz._

DRAWING WATER

Nero MS., C. iv. (10th cent.).]

The daily life of the King in his palace or on his journeys is not

difficult to make out. That of the people, the priest, the merchant,

the craftsman, is impossible to discover—only a few general customs

can be noted. To begin with, the Anglo-Saxon was a mighty drinker:

in drinking he was only surpassed by the Dane; bishops were even

accused of going drunk to church; all classes drank to excess. They

had drinking bouts which lasted for days: during this orgy they

illustrated their Christian profession by praising the saints and

singing hymns between their cups, instead of singing the old war songs;

the young king, Harthacnut, as we know, drank himself to death. But the

feasting and the hard drinking seldom fell to the lot of the ordinary

craftsman. We may believe that this honest man drank as much as he

could get and as often as he could afford, but ale and mead then, as

now, cost money. How the craftsman worked, for what wage, for how long,

how he was housed, how he was fed, we may ask in vain.

[Illustration: ST. LUKE, FROM ST. CHAD’S GOSPEL BOOK, DATE ABOUT 700

A.D.]

Like the Dane, the Anglo-Saxon was of an imaginative nature; he not

only believed in spirits and demons, but he made a great and complete

scheme of mythology into which we need not here inquire; when he was

converted to Christianity he surrendered himself to a blind belief

in the doctrines of the Church. Many noble and royal persons in the

revival of the eighth century showed, as we have seen, the sincerity of

their belief so far as to lay down their rank and enter monasteries,

or to go off barefooted on pilgrimage. With the majority, their new

religion was something added to the old. We are not to suppose that

this old mythology was known to the common people, any more than the

book of Ovid’s _Metamorphoses_ was known to the average Roman citizen.

The Christian Church introduced its teaching gradually, being content

to pass over many pagan practices. The Church said nothing while the

people continued to believe that the foul fiend entered into the body

of a person newly dead and walked about in that body all night. They

believed in the power of raising spirits, in magic and witchcraft; they

wore amulets and charms for protection; they believed in “stacung,”

_i.e._ “sticking,” a method of killing an enemy by which the slayer

simply stuck a thorn or a pin into his enemy and prayed that the part

wounded might mortify and so cause death. It was an easy method, but

one that offered the obvious objection that you cannot stick a pin into

any part of a man without causing him pain; nor can you pray at the

same time without his hearing the prayer. Therefore one must believe

that the would-be murderer ran great risk himself of being murdered.

There were, however, instances in which persons were believed to have

caused death by this method. In the tenth century, for instance, we

get a glimpse of wild justice. We see a man running madly through the

streets; he reaches the nearest gate; he flies across the moor, where

none pursue him; he is heard of no more. The crowd which ran after him

turned back. They made for a house—not a hovel—a substantial house,

where he had lived with his aged mother; they beat down the door; they

rushed in; they came out shouting that they had found the accursed

thing; they dragged out the old woman shrieking for mercy. “Witch!

sorceress! She has bewitched Ælsie by sticking and by prayer. He is

sick unto death. She must die.” They hauled her along the streets;

they reached the bridge; they hurled the poor creature, now covered

with blood and shrieking no longer, into the river. She floated for a

second; she sank; again she rose to the surface; then she was seen no

more, and the crowd returned. The King for his part confiscated the

lands of the sorceress and her son.

Loftie gives the following passage concerning this event. It is from a

document in the Society of Antiquaries. Note by the way that it proves

the existence of the bridge in 960 or thereabouts:—

“Here is made known in this writing, that bishop Æthelwold and Wulfstan

Uccea exchanged lands, with the witness of King Ædgar and his ‘witan.’

The bishop gave to Wulfstan the land at Washington, and Wulfstan gave

him the land at Jaceslea and at Aylesworth. Then the bishop gave the

land at Jaceslea to Thorney, and that at Aylesworth to Peterborough;

and a widow and her son had previously forfeited the land at

Aylesworth, because they had driven an iron pin into Ælsie, Wulfstan’s

father, and that was detected: and they drew the deadly thing forth

from her chamber. They then took the woman and drowned her at London

Bridge; and her son escaped, and became outlaw; and the land went into

the hands of the king; and the king then gave it to Ælsie, and Wulfstan

Uccea his son gave it again to Bishop Æthelwold, as it is here above

said.”

The method of “sticking” was continued, but with modifications. The

operator no longer stuck a thorn into his enemy. He made a waxen image

of him and stuck pins into the image, with a prayer that the man might

feel the agony of the wound; he placed it before the fire, and prayed

that as the waxen image melted away, so his enemy might waste away and

die. The superstition lingered long; perhaps it still has followers and

believers. In the fifteenth century the greatest lady in the land was

compelled to do penance and was committed to a life-long prison for

practising this superstitious rite.

[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON HUSBANDMAN AND HIS WIFE

Royal MS. 2, B. vii.]

Philtres and love potions were greatly in request; the people

practised astrology and divination. Their medicine was much mixed

with superstition: thus they knew the medicinal properties of certain

plants, but in using them certain prayers had to be said or sung; they

practised bleeding, but not when the moon was crescent and the tide was

rising; the use of relics was prescribed for every possible disease.

It is a great pity that we have neither an Anglo-Saxon house nor any

detailed description of one left. There are, it is true, some drawings

of houses in the MSS. of the period, but the buildings are presented

conventionally; they are indicated for those who would recognise

them without too great an adherence to truth. Take that on p. 225.

There is, it will be perceived, a central hall. On one side is the

chapel—part of the wall is taken out so as to show the lamp burning

before the altar; beside the chapel is a small room, perhaps the

chaplain’s chamber; on the other side are two chambers: one belongs to

the men-at-arms, the other to the maids; the court is full of beggars,

to whom the lord and the lady are serving food, while the maids are

bringing out clothes for two adults who are standing at the door in a

state of Nature. There is a round building at the back—the walls of the

house are of masonry up to a certain height, when timber begins; there

is but one floor. The hall was hung with cloths or tapestry; it was

furnished with benches and with movable tables on trestles.

In the Saxon household the special occupation of the women was the

construction of clothing. They carded the wool; they beat the flax;

they sat at the spinning-wheel or at the weaver’s loom; they made

the clothes; they washed the clothes; they embroidered and adorned

the clothes; the female side in a genealogy was called the spindle

side. Kings’ daughters, notably the grand-daughters of King Alfred,

distinguished themselves by their work with the spinning-wheel and the

needle. The Norman admired the wonderful work of the Saxon ladies; the

finest embroideries shown in France were known as English work. Thomas

Wright (_Womankind in Western Europe_, p. 60) gives very complete

testimony on this point:—

“The Anglo-Saxon ladies of rank were especially skilful in embroidery,

and that from a very early period. English girls are spoken of in the

life of St. Augustine as employed in skilfully ornamenting the ensigns

of the priesthood and of royalty with gold, and pearls, and precious

stones. St. Etheldreda, the first Abbess of Ely, a lady of royal rank,

presented to St. Cuthbert a stole and maniple which she had thus

embroidered with gold and gems with her own hands. At a later period,

Algiva or Emma, the queen of King Cnut, worked with her own hands a

stuff bordered in its whole extent with goldwork, and ornamented in

places with gold and precious stones arranged in pictures, executed

with such skill and richness that its equal might be sought through

all England in vain. Dunstan is said to have designed patterns for the

ladies in this artistic work. The early historian of Ely tells a story

of an Anglo-Saxon lady who, having retired to lead a religious life

in that monastic establishment, the nuns assigned to her a place near

the Abbey, where she might occupy herself more privately with young

damsels in embroidery and weaving, in which they excelled. We trace in

early records the mention of women who appear to have exercised these

arts as a profession. We find, for instance, in the _Domesday Book_, a

damsel named Alwid holding lands at Ashley in Buckinghamshire, which

had been given to her by Earl Godwin for teaching his daughter orfrey

or embroidery in gold, and a woman named Leviet or Leviede is mentioned

in Dorsetshire as employed in making orfrey for the king and queen.”

It is also remarked by Wright that the names given to women indicate

a high respect for womanhood: such as the names of Eadburga—the

citadel of happiness; Ethelburga—the citadel of nobility; Edith

(Eadgythe)—the gift of happiness; Elfgiva-the gift of the fairies;

Elfthrida—the strength of the fairies, or the spiritual strength;

Godiva (Godgifa)—the gift of God.

[Illustration: FEEDING THE HUNGRY

Harl. MS., 603.]

There are, so far as I know, no traditions of any nunnery in London

before the Conquest. The name Mincing Lane, which is certainly

Mincheon Lane or Nuns’ Lane, points probably to property belonging

to a nunnery. Perhaps there was a nunnery within the City before the

occupation by the Danes. If so, it perished and was forgotten. Just as

men were required to fight and not to lead monastic lives, so women

were required to become mothers of fighting men, and not to enter a

cloister. I think there may have been a nunnery, because London did

not escape the wave of religious revival, and also because one was

necessary for the education of girls. At nunnery schools the girls were

educated with far greater care than our own girls till the last twenty

years or so. They learned Latin, rhetoric, logic, and, according to

Wright, “what we call popular science.” They also learned embroidery.

“From the statements of the Anglo-Saxon writers, we are led to believe

that the Anglo-Saxon nuns had no objection to finery themselves, and

they are accused of wearing white and violet chemises, tunics, and

veils of delicate tissue, richly embroidered with silver and gold, and

scarlet shoes.” (Wright, p. 86.)

[Illustration: GOING TO THE CHASE

Royal MS. 2, B. vii.]

The evening of the ordinary man was not wholly given up to drinking.

The musicians came in and played on harp and trumpet, pipes, horn, and

fiddle. The gleemen sang and recited; the tumbling-girls played their

tricks.

[Illustration: THE HAWK STRIKES

Royal MS. 2, B. vii.]

The Anglo-Saxon love of music and poetry gives us a higher opinion of

the people than we might form from all that we have learned. Applying

all his qualities, good or bad, to the Londoner, it will be found that

he has transmitted them to the generations coming after him. For he was

a lover of freedom, valiant in the field; a lover of order and justice;

impatient under ecclesiastical control, yet full of religion; fond of

music, poetry, singing and playing; given to feasting and addicted to

drunkenness. These attributes distinguished the Londoner in the tenth

century, and they are with him still after a thousand years.

[Illustration: FEASTING

Claud MS., B. iv. (11th cent.).]

The sports and pastimes of the City were the same for London as for the

rest of the country. The citizens were passionately fond of hunting and

hawking; they baited animals, as the bull, the bear, and the badger;

they were fond of swimming, skating, and rowing, of dancing, and of

tomfoolery, jumping, tumbling, and playing practical jokes. Of these

amusements, hunting was by far the most popular with all classes. We

have seen that the Londoner had deep forests on all sides of him,

beyond the moor on the north of his wall, beyond the Dover causeway on

the south, beyond the Lea on the east, beyond Watling Street on the

west. The forests were full of wild cattle, bears, elk, buffalo, wild

boars, stags, wolves, foxes, hares, and the lesser creatures; as for

the wolves, they were a terror to every village. Athelstan and Edgar

organised immense hunts for the destruction of the wolves; under the

latter they were so greatly reduced in number that he is generally

said to have exterminated them. As regards the hunting of the elk or

the wild boar, it was a point of honour to meet the creature face to

face after it had been roused from its lair by the dogs, and driven out

maddened to turn upon its assailant. In single combat the hunter met

him spear and knife in hand, and either killed or was killed. Sometimes

nets were employed; these were stretched from tree to tree. Dogs drew

the creatures into the nets, where they were slaughtered. Once Edward

the Confessor, a mighty hunter, discovered that his nets had been laid

upon the ground by a countryman. “By God and His Mother!” cried the

gentle saint, “I will serve you just such a turn if ever it comes in my

way.”

The country was famous for its breed of dogs. There were bloodhounds

strong enough to pull down bulls; wolfhounds which could overtake a

stag or a wolf or a bear; a kind of bulldogs remarkable for their

overhanging jowls; harriers, greyhounds, water spaniels, sheep-dogs,

watch-dogs, and many other kinds.

The Game Laws, which restricted the right of hunting, formerly

universal, were introduced by Cnut. Every man, however, was permitted

to hunt over his own land.

Akin to hunting was the sport of hawking. This was greatly followed by

ladies, for whom other kinds of hunting were too rough. Hawks of good

breed were extremely valuable. It was not only by hawking that birds

were caught. The Londoner employed nets, traps, slings, and bird-lime.

He had only to go down the river as far as Barking or Greenwich to

find innumerable swarms of birds to be trapped and netted. Of his

indoor pastimes one must not omit to mention the making and answering

of riddles, a game with pawns—“taeflmen”—and dice, called “taefl,” and

the game of chess. The last of these was a fearful joy on account of

the rage which seems always to have seized the man who was defeated.

Witness the following anecdote:—

“Among the most enthusiastic of chess-players was Cnut the Great, but

he was by no means an agreeable antagonist. When he lost a game, or

saw that he was on the eve of doing so, he very commonly took up the

huge chess-board on which he played, and broke it on the head of his

opponent. He was on one occasion playing with his brother-in-law,

the Earl Ulf, when the earl, seeing that he had a forced mate, and

knowing the king’s weakness for knocking out the brains of successful

antagonists, quietly left the table. Cnut, who guessed his motive,

shouted after him: ‘Do you run away, you coward?’ To which the other,

who had lately rescued the king in an unfortunate engagement with the

Swedes, replied, ‘You would have been glad to have run faster at the

Helga, when I saved you from the Swedes who were cudgelling you.’ Cnut

endeavoured to bear the retort patiently, but it was too irritating for

his temper. On the following morning he commanded one of his Thanes to

go and murder Ulf; and though, in anticipation of the king’s vengeance,

Ulf had taken sanctuary in the church of St. Lucius, the bloodthirsty

order was carried into effect.”

The education of the boy was conducted at monasteries. One knows that

there were schools in every monastery, and that every minster had its

school; and that probably the four oldest schools of London—St. Paul’s,

St. Martin’s, St. Anthony’s, and St. Mary-le-Bow, were of Anglo-Saxon

foundation. We know, further, that at these schools the teaching was

carried on by means of catechism, and that the discipline was severe,

but we do not know what children were admitted to these schools, and

whether the child of the craftsman was received as well as the child

of the Thane. Athletics were not neglected—leaping, running, wrestling,

and every kind of sport which would make the body more active and

the frame more capable of endurance were encouraged. Until the time

of Alfred very few even of the highest rank could read or write. The

monasteries with their schools did a great deal to remove the reproach.

The boys rose before daybreak and joined the brethren in singing the

Psalms appointed for the early service. They assisted at first mass and

at the mass for the day; they dined at noon and slept after dinner;

they then repaired to their teacher for instruction.

[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON HOUSE

Harl. MS., 603.]

Food in London was always plentiful; it was very largely the same as

at present. The people killed and ate oxen, sheep, and swine; they had

game of all kinds; wild birds in myriads frequented the marshes and the

lowlands of Essex; the rivers were full of fish. Barley-bread was eaten

by children and the lower orders; they had excellent orchard-land, and

a plentiful supply of apples, pears, nuts, grapes, mulberries, and

figs. In the winter they had salted meat. Their drink was ale, wine,

mead, pigment, and morat. Pigment was a liquor made of honey, wine,

and spice. Morat was a drink made of honey mixed with the juice of

mulberries.

The Londoner’s house was luxurious, according to the luxury of the

time. The walls were adorned with hangings, mostly of silk embroidered

with figures in needlework. These hangings and curtains were of

gaudy colours, like the fashionable dresses. The benches, seats, and

footstools were richly carved. The tables were sometimes decorated

with silver and gold. The candlesticks were of bone or of silver. The

mirrors were of silver. The beds were provided with rich and soft

pillows and coverings, bearskins and goatskins being used for blankets.

There was great store of silver cups and basins; the poorer sort used

vessels of wood and horn. Glass began to come into general use about

the time of the Norman Conquest. At least twelve different precious

stones were known. Spices were also known, but they were difficult to

procure and highly prized. The warm bath was used constantly, but not

the cold bath, except as a penance.

In every city, town, nay, every monastery and every village, it was

necessary that there should be artificers to make everything that was

wanted. The women did the weaving, sewing, dressmaking and embroidery.

We need not attempt to enumerate the trades of the men. A list of them

will be found in _Mediæval London_. (See vol. i. App. ii.)

The population of London can only be guessed, but there are certain

facts which afford some kind of clue. Thus, when Alfred entered the

City there was practically no population, unless the slaves of the

Danes remained. The City filled up rapidly with the increase of

security and the development of trade. Foreign merchants once more

flocked to the Port; they settled in the City and became Londoners. The

defeat of Swegen and Olaf, and afterwards of Cnut, clearly proves that

the citizens were strong enough to beat off a very large and powerful

army. This fact is alone sufficient to prove that the City contained a

population enormous for the period. In the twelfth century FitzStephen

says that London could furnish 60,000 fighting men—a manifest

exaggeration. In _Domesday Book_, prepared after the devastating wars

of William, and with the omission of some counties and many towns, we

arrive at a population of a million and a half. If we allow for London

an eighth part of the population of the whole country, we have 187,500.

For other reasons (see p. 190), I think that the population of London

at the beginning of the eleventh century was probably about 100,000.

There are many other things about the City of King Edward which we

should like to know. Among them are: the procedure at a folkmote; the

exact procedure in the trial of a person charged with an offence;

the real extent of the power exercised by the Church, _e.g._ those

penances so freely imposed, were they laid upon all citizens or only

upon certain persons more devout than the rest? What kind of education

was given to the boys and girls of the lower classes? Again, one would

like to know what was the position and what the work of a slave in

London. Outside London, _Domesday Book_ records 26,500 slaves in all;

but in London itself nothing is known about their number. Taking the

population of London as one-eighth that of the whole country, the

number of slaves would be about 3300. Since there is no trade which

has ever been held in contempt by the working classes of London, it is

probable that there was no trade specially set apart for the slaves.

FOOTNOTES:

[23] _History of the Anglo-Saxons._

CHAPTER VII

THORNEY ISLAND

[Illustration: THE SITUATION OF WESTMINSTER

From _Westminster_, by Sir Walter Besant.]

Let us turn to the sister city, as yet only Thorney, the Isle of

Bramble. We all know the legend of St. Peter’s Hallowing. The legend

became in later times an article of faith. The right of Sanctuary at

Westminster was made to rest upon the sanctity of a place so blest as

to have been consecrated by Peter: on the strength of this sanctity

Westminster claimed the tithe of the Thames fishermen from Staines to

Gravesend; and as late as 1382 a Thames fisherman representing Edric

had the right to sit at the same table as the prior; he might demand

of the cellarer ale and bread, and the cellarer again might take for

him of the fish’s tail as much as he could with four fingers and the

thumb erect.

Sebert was buried in the church, and his tomb is pointed out to this

day. Walsingham says that when his grave was opened for the purpose of

removing his body from the old church to the new, “his right hand was

found perfect, flesh and skin, nails and bones, up to the middle of his

arms.” And Robert of Gloucester writes:—

“Segbrit that I remped was a right holy man,

For the Abbey of Westminster he foremost began:

He was the first king that thilke church gan rere,

And sithe at his ende day he was buried there.

Seven hundred yere and six there were nigh agon,

Sithe that he was buried faire under a ston:

And some dede of him was also hooly found

As thilk day that he was first laid in the ground.”

Bede makes no mention at all of Westminster Abbey. But the first

Charter in which it is mentioned, that of King Offa of Mercia, in 785,

calls it St. Peter’s. Bede’s History ends at the year 731; therefore

the Abbey was founded between 731 and 785; or, which is more likely,

the foundation was too small and insignificant for Bede to mention

it. King Offa says, “I have given to St. Peter and the Lord’s people

dwelling in Torneis, in loco terribili, quod dicitur aet Uuestminster.”

There is another ancient charter, without date, still existing, under

which one Ælfhelm grants lands to the Abbey. Considering the facts

already dwelt upon—the religious fervour of the eighth century, the

general desire for the monastic life, and the absence of monasteries

or nunneries in London, we may very reasonably infer that Westminster

would open her doors to the citizens, and these would endow and enrich

her. So that the vanished foundation may very well have been a great

and splendid monastery. As we have nothing to go upon but conjecture

and inference concerning it, we may accept anything we please.

Then came the troubles of the Danes in the ninth century. It is not

to be supposed that, when they were ravaging the whole island and

destroying everywhere the religious houses, Westminster would be

spared. Indeed, they seem to have actually occupied Thorney, according

to Ethelred’s Chronicle, and to have been besieged there by Earl

Ethelred. It certainly was not the only time that they visited a place

so convenient and lying on the old high road. One visit was probably

quite enough so far as the monks were concerned.

Edgar and Dunstan founded the Abbey anew—in this first great

dissolution of the monasteries the younger monks probably took up arms

and became fighting-men with the rest. However this may be, the monks

of Westminster were lost: the new Abbey had to be served by monks from

Glastonbury.

[Illustration:

_Rischgitz Collection._

ST. DUNSTAN AT THE FEET OF CHRIST

From a MS. in the Bodleian Library.]

A document still exists, perhaps a forgery, but yet of great value,

purporting to be the King’s charter granting estates to the Abbey. Its

importance to us lies in the fact that, forgery or not, it does give

the boundaries of the estate claimed and possessed by the monks. A very

noble estate it is. You can lay it down on the map very easily. On the

north it was bounded by the line of Oxford Street; on the east by the

Fleet river; on the south by the Thames; on the west by the Tyburn and

a line drawn from the present site of Buckingham Palace to Victoria

Station, and thence to the outfall of the King’s Scholars’ Pond Sewer,

east of Albion Terrace in the Grosvenor Road. Of this large manor

a good portion was marsh-land, but there were pastures and meadows

south of the present Oxford Street, and as far as Holborn and the

Fleet. Later on the Abbey acquired the land between the Tyburn and the

Westbourne, that is to say, that part now bounded by the Serpentine in

Hyde Park and the two sewers known as King’s Scholars’ Pond Sewer and

the Ranelagh Sewer.

This, however, was the demesne of the Abbey under Edgar’s foundation.

He brought thither twelve monks of the Benedictine order from

Glastonbury, and gave them presents in gold as well as in lands. Still

it remained a poor foundation till the coming of the Confessor.

Of this church, that of Edgar, I suppose there is not a fragment left

above the ground. Nor need we speculate as to the kind of church that

it was.

Beside the Abbey, on the east side of it, it is said that King Cnut

erected a royal palace. At least tradition ascribes the palace to him,

and there are several reasons which make it as certain as can be that

the King did build a palace of some kind—whether great or small—on

Thorney. It is stated that he loved to converse with Wulnoth, Abbot of

St. Peter’s. Now even in these days it is not so very easy to get from

London to Westminster for the purpose of conversation, and King Cnut

was the busiest man in the whole island, so it is at all events likely

that he built some sort of dwelling near the Abbey. It is positively

stated that his palace was burned in the time of the Confessor; there

is a bull by Pope Nicholas II. (1058-1061), in which it is said that

“the place where the church and monastery are built was anciently the

seat of kings—therefore by the authority, etc., we grant and solidly

confirm that hereafter, for ever, it be the place of the kings’

constitution and consecration, the repository of the Imperial Regalia,

and a perpetual habitation of monks.” This is pretty plain. But there

are other points which seem to indicate that Cnut was the first builder

of a palace here. The story of the removal of St. Alphage’s remains

from St. Paul’s to Canterbury proves the wholesome fear with which the

King regarded the citizens of London. He caused his men to simulate

riots and tumults at the City gates, so that when all the citizens

hurried thither in hopes of a fight, the removal could take place

unseen. He would not willingly remain within the City walls. Besides,

he had with him his small standing army of 3000 huscarles (house men),

whom he carried about with him. The housing of these men in London—men

of a different nationality—would be an ever-present danger if they were

billeted upon the citizens: one could not expect that the Londoners,

who had twice beaten off Cnut’s father and once beaten off Cnut

himself, would regard the intrusion of this army within their walls

with satisfaction.

What kind of palace was that which Cnut erected? I am of opinion that

it contained the central group of buildings associated with the name

of Edward the Confessor, which remained, with many changes of windows

and roof, down to the fire of 1834. Outside, there were the offices of

state, the barracks, the guest-chambers, and so forth. We shall return

to the subject again.

There is one more reason to believe that the palace of Westminster

was built by Cnut. When Edric the traitor was beheaded, his body was

“flung out of window into the Thames.” Some writers have stated that

this would be impossible at Westminster. Quite the contrary; but it

would have been impossible at London, for the simple reason that there

were no windows overlooking the river, but that there was a great stone

wall with towers and bastions running all along the river side: at

Westminster, on the other hand, there were always houses built upon the

banks with windows overlooking the river.

Let us meantime recognise Cnut as the founder of the “King’s House”

of Westminster. It seems that both Harold and Hardacnut occupied the

palace of Westminster from time to time.

[Illustration: MONKS

Nero MS., C. iv.]

King Edward’s first charter, granted to Wulnoth and the monks of

Westminster, was dated from the King’s House—_in regis palatio_—of

London.

Edward the Confessor resolved to restore and to rebuild and to re-endow

the Monastery of St. Peter. He was moved thereto partly because he

was a special votary of that Apostle; partly because he had vowed a

pilgrimage to St. Peter’s tomb at Rome, and his Council would not let

him go; partly because to build and to endow a church was an act very

pleasing to the Lord; and partly because he possessed that love of

building found in so many kings of all ages and of all countries.

He carried his resolution into effect. He built a church worthy of his

vow, and a church which was by far the noblest and grandest edifice in

the country. It was the first English example of the cruciform church:

it occupied an area nearly equal to that of the present church; the

windows were filled with stained-glass representing passages in the

life of our Lord and in the lives of the saints; it contained a noble

organ; the altars blazed with gold and precious stones; the vestments

of the priests were as magnificent as embroidery, silk, and cloth of

gold could be made; the King and his warriors came to worship from the

palace hard by; the rustics from the farms around came to worship side

by side. In the splendour of the church, in the austerity of the monks,

in the equality of the worshippers, there was taught to the world every

day that religion regardeth not the rank or the power of a man. Of

Edward’s church little now remains, only some pillars and passages,

some substructures, the chapel of the Pyx, and some broken columns of

the Infirmary Chapel.

Edward did not witness the consecration of his church. His last act was

to sign the charter of the foundation. It was consecrated without him.

His queen, Edith, sat in the King’s place, with her brothers, Harold

and Gurth, and the new minster was consecrated by Archbishops Stigand

and Aldred, while the King lay in his palace close by, slowly dying.

After the consecration of the church the first function was the burial

of its founder. The next was the coronation of Harold.

We shall have more to say, later on, concerning the coronation of our

kings and queens. Let us conclude our notice of Saxon London with the

coronation service of a Saxon king. It is that of Ethelred, and was

probably followed word for word in the crowning of King Harold:—

“Two bishops, with the witan, shall lead him to the church, and the

clergy, with the bishops, shall sing the anthem, ‘Firmetur, manus tua,’

and the ‘Gloria Patri.’

When the king arrives at the church, he shall prostrate himself before

the altar, and the ‘Te Deum’ shall be chaunted.

When this is finished, the king shall be raised from the ground, and

having been chosen by the bishops and people, shall, with a clear

voice, before God and all the people, promise that he will observe

these three rules.

_The Coronation Oath_

‘In the name of Christ, I promise three things to the Christian people,

my subjects:—

First, That the church of God, and all the Christian people, shall

always preserve true peace under our auspices.

Second, That I will forbid rapacity and all iniquities to every

condition.

Third, That I will command equity and mercy in all judgments, that to

me and to you the gracious and merciful God may extend his mercy.’

All shall say Amen. These prayers shall follow, which the bishops are

separately to repeat:—

‘We invoke thee, O Lord, Holy Father, Almighty and Eternal God, that

this thy servant (whom, by the wisdom of thy divine dispensations from

the beginning of his formation to this present day, thou hast permitted

to increase, rejoicing in the flower of youth), enriched with the gift

of thy piety, and full of the grace of truth, thou mayest cause to be

always advancing, day by day, to better things before God and men:

that, rejoicing in the bounty of supernal grace, he may receive the

throne of supreme power; and defended on all sides from his enemies

by the wall of thy mercy, he may deserve to govern happily the people

committed to him with the peace of propitiation and the strength of

victory.’

[Illustration:

_Augustin Rischgitz._

THE FAMOUS “BOOK OF KELLS” MS. OF THE GOSPELS IN LATIN

Written in Ireland (A.D. 650-690). Now in the possession of

Trinity College, Dublin.]

_Second Prayer_

‘O God, who directest thy people in strength, and governest them with

love, give this thy servant such a spirit of wisdom with the rule of

discipline, that, devoted to thee with his whole heart, he may remain

in his government always fit, and that by thy favour the security of

this church may be preserved in his time, and Christian devotion may

remain in tranquillity; so that, persevering in good works, he may

attain, under thy guidance, to thine everlasting kingdom.’

After a third prayer, the consecration of the king by the bishop takes

place, who holds the crown over him, saying:—

‘Almighty Creator, Everlasting Lord, Governor of heaven and earth, the

Maker and Disposer of angels and men, King of kings and Lord of lords!

who made thy faithful servant Abraham to triumph over his enemies,

and gavest manifold victories to Moses and Joshua, the prelates of

thy people; and didst raise David, thy lowly child, to the summit of

the kingdom, and didst free him from the mouth of the lion and the

paws of the bear, and from Goliath, and from the malignant sword of

Saul and his enemies; who didst endow Solomon with the ineffable gift

of wisdom and peace: look down propitiously on our humble prayers,

and multiply the gifts of thy blessing on this thy servant, whom,

with humble devotion, we have chosen to be king of the Angles and the

Saxons. Surround him everywhere with the right hand of thy power,

that, strengthened with the faithfulness of Abraham, the meekness of

Moses, the courage of Joshua, the humility of David, and the wisdom of

Solomon, he may be well-pleasing to thee in all things, and may always

advance in the way of justice with inoffensive progress.

May he so nourish, teach, defend, and instruct the church of all

the kingdom of the Anglo-Saxons, with the people annexed to it; and

so potently and royally rule it against all visible and invisible

enemies, that the royal throne of the Angles and Saxons may not desert

his sceptre, but that he may keep their minds in the harmony of the

pristine faith and peace! May he, supported by the due subjection of

the people, and glorified by worthy love, through a long life, descend

to govern and establish it with the united mercy of thy glory! Defended

with the helmet and invincible shield of thy protection, and surrounded

with celestial arms, may he obtain the triumph of victory over all his

enemies, and bring the terror of his power on all the unfaithful, and

shed peace on those joyfully fighting for thee! Adorn him with the

virtues with which thou hast decorated thy faithful servants; place him

high in his dominion, and anoint him with the oil of the grace of thy

Holy Spirit!’

Here he shall be ANOINTED with oil; and this anthem shall be

sung:—

‘And Zadoc the priest, and Nathan the prophet, anointed Solomon king in

Sion; and, approaching him, they said, May the king live for ever!’

After two appropriate prayers, the SWORD was given to him,

with this invocation:—

‘God! who governest all things, both in heaven and in earth, by thy

providence, be propitious to our most Christian king, that all the

strength of his enemies may be broken by the virtue of the spiritual

sword, and that Thou combating for him, they may be utterly destroyed!’

The king shall here be CROWNED, and shall be thus addressed:—

‘May God crown thee with the crown of glory, and with the honour

of justice, and the labour of fortitude; and by the virtue of our

benediction, and by a right faith, and the various fruit of good works,

thou mayst attain to the crown of the everlasting kingdom, through His

bounty whose kingdom endures for ever!’

[Illustration: ROOD OVER THE SOUTH DOOR OF STEPNEY CHURCH]

After the crown shall be put upon his head, this prayer shall be said:—

‘God of Eternity! Commander of the virtues! the Conqueror of all

enemies! bless this thy servant, now humbly bending his head before

thee, and preserve him long in health, prosperity and happiness.

Whenever he shall invoke thine aid, be speedily present to him, and

protect and defend him. Bestow on him the riches of thy grace; fulfil

his desires with every good thing, and crown him with thy mercy.’

The SCEPTRE shall be here given to him, with this address:—

‘Take the illustrious sceptre of the royal power, the rod of thy

dominion, the rod of justice, by which mayest thou govern thyself well,

and the holy church and Christian people committed by the Lord to

thee! Mayest thou with royal virtue defend us from the wicked, correct

the bad, and pacify the upright; and that they may hold the right

way, direct them with thine aid, so that from the temporal kingdom

thou mayest attain to that which is eternal, by His aid whose endless

dominion will remain through every age.’

After the sceptre has been given, this prayer follows:—

‘Lord of all! Fountain of good! God of all! Governor of governors!

bestow on thy servant the dignity to govern well, and strengthen him,

that he become the honour granted him by thee! Make him illustrious

above every other king in Britain! Enrich him with thine affluent

benediction, and establish him firmly in the throne of his kingdom!

Visit him in his offspring, and grant him length of life! In his day

may justice be pre-eminent; so that, with all joy and felicity, he may

be glorified in thine everlasting kingdom.’

The ROD shall be here given to him, with this address:—

‘Take the rod of justice and equity, by which thou mayest understand

how to soothe the pious and terrify the bad; teach the way to the

erring; stretch out thine hand to the faltering; abase the proud; exalt

the humble; that Christ our Lord may open to thee the door, who says of

himself, I am the door: if any enter through me, he shall be saved. And

HE who is the key of David, and the sceptre of the house of

Israel, who opens and no one can shut; who shuts and no one can open;

may he be thy helper! HE who bringeth the bounden from the

prison-house, and the one sitting in darkness and the shadow of death!

that in all things thou mayest deserve to follow him of whom David

sang, Thy seat, O God, endureth for ever; the sceptre of thy kingdom is

a right sceptre. Imitate him who says, Thou hast loved righteousness,

and hated iniquity; therefore God, even thy God, has anointed thee with

the oil of gladness above thy fellows.’

The benedictions follow:—

‘May the Almighty Lord extend the right hand of his blessing, and pour

upon thee the gift of his protection, and surround thee with a wall of

happiness, and with the guardianship of his care; the merits of the

holy Mary; of Saint Peter, the prince of the Apostles; and of Saint

Gregory, the apostle of the English; and of all the Saints, interceding

for thee!

May the Lord forgive thee all the evil thou hast done, and bestow

on thee the grace and mercy which thou humbly askest of him; may he

free thee from all adversity, and from all the assaults of visible or

invisible enemies.

May he place his good angels to watch over thee, that they always and

everywhere may precede, accompany, and follow thee; and by his power

may he preserve thee from sin, from the sword, and every accident and

danger!

May he convert thine enemies to the benignity of peace and love, and

make thee gracious and amiable in every good thing; and may he cover

those that persecute and hate thee with salutary confusion; and may

everlasting sanctification flourish upon thee!

May he always make thee victorious and triumphant over thine enemies,

visible or invisible; and pour upon thy heart both the fear and the

continual love of his holy name, and make thee persevere in the right

faith and in good works, granting thee peace in thy days; and with the

palm of victory may he bring thee to an endless reign!

[Illustration: EDWARD THE CONFESSOR’S CHAPEL]

And may he make them happy in this world, and the partakers of his

everlasting felicity, who have willed to make thee king over his people!

Bless, Lord, this elected prince, thou who rulest forever the kingdoms

of all kings.

And so glorify him with thy blessing, that he may hold the sceptre of

Solomon with the sublimity of a David, etc.

Grant him, by thy inspiration, so to govern thy people, as thou didst

permit Solomon to obtain a peaceful kingdom.’

_Designation of the State of the Kingdom_

‘Stand and retain now the state which thou hast hitherto held by

paternal succession, with hereditary right, delegated to thee by the

authority of Almighty God, and our present delivery, that is, of all

the bishops and other servants of God; and in so much as thou hast

beheld the clergy nearer the sacred altars, so much more remember to

pay them the honour due, in suitable places. So may the Mediator of God

and men confirm thee the mediator of the clergy and the common people,

on the throne of this kingdom, and make thee reign with him in his

eternal kingdom.’

This prayer follows:—

‘May the Almighty Lord give thee, from the dew of heaven, and the

fatness of the earth, abundance of corn, wine, and oil! May the people

serve thee, and the tribes adore thee! Be the lord of thy brothers,

and let the sons of thy mother bow before thee: He who blesses thee

shall be filled with blessings, and God will be thy helper: May the

Almighty bless thee with the blessings of the heaven above, and in the

mountains, and the vallies; with the blessing of the deep below; with

the blessing of the suckling and the womb; with the blessings of grapes

and apples; and may the blessing of the ancient fathers, Abraham,

Isaac, and Jacob, be heaped upon thee!

Bless, Lord, the courage of this prince, and prosper the works of his

hands; and by thy blessing may his land be filled with apples, with the

fruits, and the dew of heaven, and of the deep below; with the fruit

of the sun and moon; from the tops of the ancient mountains, from the

apples of the eternal hills, and from the fruits of the earth and its

fulness!

May the blessing of Him who appeared in the bush come upon his head;

and may the full blessing of the Lord be upon his sons, and may he

steep his feet in oil!

With his horn, as the horn of the rhinoceros, may he scatter the

nations to the extremities of the earth; and may He who has ascended to

the skies be his auxiliary for ever!’

Here the coronation ends.”

CHAPTER VIII

SAXON REMAINS

As for the monuments which remain of Saxon London there are none; the

Roman monuments are older, the mediæval monuments are later. There is

not one single stone in the City of London which may be called Saxon.

In Westminster the fire of 1835 swept away the buildings which belonged

perhaps to Cnut; certainly, with alterations, to Edward the Confessor.

Some of the bases of Edward’s columns still exist under the later

pavement; the chapel of the Pyx, and portions of the domestic buildings

appropriated to the use of the school, were built by Edward.

[Illustration:

ANCIENT ENAMELLED OUCHE IN GOLD DISCOVERED NEAR DOWGATE HILL; PROBABLY

9TH CENTURY

Roach Smith’s _Catalogue of London Antiquities_.]

Of Saxon coins many have been found. Perhaps the most important find

happened on June 24th, 1774, in clearing away the foundations of

certain old houses near to the church of St. Mary at Hill, when a

quantity of coins and other things placed in an earthen vessel eighteen

or twenty inches beneath the brick pavement or cellar were dug up.

The vessel was broken by the pickaxe and the coins fell out upon the

ground. The workmen, thinking from their blackened appearance that they

were worthless, threw them away, but a foreman, finding that they were

silver, collected all he could, some three or four hundred pieces.

Within the earthen vessel was a smaller one containing coins in a high

state of preservation, together with a fibula of gold finely worked

in filigree, with a sapphire set in the centre, and four pearls, of

which one was lost. The coins consisted entirely of pennies of Edward

the Confessor, Harold II., and William the Conqueror. They are stamped

with the name of the Moneyer and the place where he kept his Mint. The

Minters or Moneyers belonging to London were:—

(1) Under Edward the Confessor:

Durman, Edwin, Godwin, Wulfred, Sulfine, and Wulfgar.

(2) Under Harold:

Edwin, Gefric, Godric, Leofti, and Wulgar.

(3) Under William:

Ægelric, Ælffig, Godwine, Leofric, and Winted.

It is at first sight strange that so very little should survive

of six hundred years’ occupation. Look, however, at other cities.

Nothing survives except those buildings, like the pyramids, or King

Herod’s temple, built of stones too huge to be carried off. What is

there in Paris—in Marseilles—in Bordeaux—in any ancient city to mark

the occupation of the city from the fifth to the eleventh century?

Considering the character of the people; considering, too, the arts and

architecture of the time; it would be strange indeed if Saxon London

had left a single monument to mark its existence.

[Illustration: AN ANCIENT COMB FOUND IN THE RUINS OF ICKLETON NUNNERY

_Archæologia_, vol. xv.]

If, however, there are no buildings of Saxon origin, there are other

remains. The names of streets proclaim everywhere the Saxon occupation.

Thus, Chepe, Ludgate, Bishopsgate, Addle Street, Coleman Street,

Garlickhithe, Edred’s Hithe (afterwards Queen’s Hithe), Lambeth Hill,

Cornhill, Gracechurch Street, Billingsgate, Lothbury, Mincing Lane,

Seething Lane, Aldermanbury, Watling Street, Size Lane, Walbrook,

and many others, occur at once. Or, there are the churches whose

dedications point to the Saxon period: as, St. Botolph, St. Osyth, St.

Ethelburga, All Hallows, and others.

Streets within the City that are perhaps later than the Conquest are

Fenchurch Street, Leadenhall Street, Lombard Street, Old Broad Street,

Great Tower Street, and Tower Hill. Streets with trade names, such as

Honey Lane, Wood Street, Friday Street, the Poultry, Bread Street, are

almost certainly of Saxon origin.

Stow speaks of an ancient road or street running from Aldgate to

Ludgate which was cut off by the enclosure of St. Paul’s Churchyard. A

glance at the map will show that when West Chepe was an open market,

a broad space, the way from east to west, may very well have struck

across St. Paul’s Churchyard to Ludgate Hill, leaving the Cathedral,

then much smaller than the Norman building, plenty of room on the south

side. No traces of the Danish Conquest exist, but there are traces of

Danish residence, first, in the names of the churches of St. Magnus and

St. Olave, of the latter there were many; in the name of St. Clement

Danes, which perhaps preserves the memory of a Danish quarter, but

the subject is obscure; in the Court called the Hustings, held every

Monday, the name of which is certainly derived from the Danes. The

similarity, however, of Danish and Saxon institutions made the adoption

of the latter easy. The absorption of the Danes by the Saxons was in

a few years so complete that no memory was left to their descendants

of their Scandinavian origin. In London the families of Danish descent

were like those of Flemish or Norman descent: they saw no reason to

remember their origin, and were English as well as London citizens.

BOOK IV

NORMAN LONDON

CHAPTER I

WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR

After Hastings William advanced upon the City, and finding his entrance

barred, burned Southwark.

The historians commonly attribute this act, which they consider as the

burning of a large and important suburb, to a threat of what the Norman

would do to London herself, unless the City surrendered. This is the

general interpretation of an act which I believe to have been simply

the usual practice of William’s soldiers, without orders. They fired

the fishermen’s huts because they always set fire to everything. Such

was the way of war.

[Illustration: DUKE WILLIAM COMES TO PEVENSEY]

Historians, indeed, seem not to understand the position of London at

this time, and the spirit of her citizens.

London, in a word, was not afraid of William. We have seen that the

City had been able to beat off six successive sieges by Danes and

Northmen; and this within the memory of men over forty. Are we to

believe that a city with such a history of defiance and victory was

going to surrender because Duke William had won a single battle? Why,

King Cnut had won a dozen, yet the town would not surrender. Then,

as to the burning of Southwark. That suburb was never more than one

line of houses on an embankment and two along a causeway. In times of

peace there stood upon the causeway certain inns for the reception of

traders and their goods; and on the embankment certain cottages for

the fishermen of the Thames and some of the river-side people, the

stevedores, lightermen, and wharfmen. The inns were wooden shanties,

they were mere shelters; the cottages were mere huts of wattle and

daub. In time of war the inns were deserted. If there were no traders

there could be no need of inns. William’s soldiers fired these deserted

inns, and, at the same time, the thatch of the fishermen’s huts; not

with any deep political object, but, as I have said, because they were

Norman soldiers, on whose coming the villages burst into spontaneous

combustion. As for the fishermen, they looked on, with their families,

from a safe position in their boats in the middle of the river. When

the soldiers had gone they returned and put on a new thatch. As for

the City’s feeling the least alarm because these cottages were burned,

nothing could be more absurd. The City looked on from the battlements

of her river-wall and shouted defiance. Then William turned and rode

away. He had no stomach for a long and doubtful siege of London while

the new armies of the English were forming.

The Londoners took time to consider their next step. They had within

their walls Edgar Atheling, grandson of Edmund Ironside; they had many

of the Bishops; they were quite strong enough to refuse submission: but

they had also among themselves many “men of Rouen”; they were already

familiar with the Normans; their Bishop, William, was of French, if

not of Norman, origin. They took time, then, to consider; there was no

hurry; they could keep out William as long as they pleased, just as

they had kept out Cnut. They began, probably on the advice of the two

earls, by electing young Edgar Atheling as their king. Why, however,

did William sit down at Berkhampstead? It has been suggested that he

could thus cut off the earls from their earldoms. But when they wished

to withdraw from London, they did so, and betook themselves to these

earldoms without molestation, so that William did not cut them off. The

reason for thus withdrawing is not apparent, though one can understand

that the Atheling was unable to persuade or to command them to unite

against the common enemy, and they retired to their own country,

leaving the Londoners to themselves, seemingly without any promise or

pledge to raise new armies in their own earldoms.

It is also suggested that, by harrying the country around, William was

cutting off the City and depriving it of supplies. He certainly did

harry the country, as is proved by the depreciation in the value of

land wherever his footsteps had been (see _English Historical Review_,

vol. xiii. No. 49). But, first of all, the harrying of the country

was necessitated by the needs of the army which had to be fed; and

secondly, London never was cut off: the river remained open, and Essex,

once the garden of England, was not touched and still remained open.

In other words, neither the burning of Southwark, nor the harrying of

the country, nor any threats of the Conqueror moved the proud City

at all. She who had beaten off Cnut—still living in their memory as

the great king—even when he had command of the river and had invaded

the City by land, who had broken down six sieges of the Danes, was

certainly not going to surrender at a word because the invader had won

a single victory.

[Illustration: KING HAROLD SHOWN IN A MÊLÉE OF FIGHTING-MEN

Vit. MS., A. xiii.]

William, for his part, did well to consider before attacking London.

Thirty years before, as he knew perfectly well, another king had

ridden to London like himself, only to find the gates shut. Cnut laid

siege to London: he was beaten off: he had to divide the kingdom with

Edmund Ironside. Not till London admitted him was he truly King of

England. William certainly knew this episode in history very well,

and understood what it meant. In the north there were Saxon lords who

needed nothing more than the support and encouragement of London to

raise an army equal to that of Harold’s, and to march south upon him.

William, who had many friends in London, therefore waited.

In London there was much running to and fro; much excitement, with

angry debates, in those days. The funeral procession, simple and plain,

carrying the body of Harold from the field of battle to the Abbey of

Waltham, had passed through the City. It must have passed through the

City, because there was no other way. The King was dead; who was to

succeed him? And some said Edgar Atheling; and some said nay, but

William himself—strong as Cnut; just as Cnut; loyal to his people as

Cnut.

First they chose the Atheling, but when the great bell of St. Paul’s

rang for the Folkmote, to Paul’s Cross all flocked—the craftsmen in

their leathern doublets, the merchants in their cloth. All assembled

together; all the citizens and freemen of the City, according to a

right extending beyond the memory of man, and a custom as old as

the City itself, claiming for every man the right of a voice in the

management of the City.

Standing above the rest was the Bishop; silent at first amid the

uproar, silent and watchful, beside him the Atheling himself, a

stripling unable to wield the battle-axe of Harold; beside him, also,

the Portreeve, the chief civil officer of the City; behind the Bishop

stood his clergy and the canons of St. Paul’s. Outside the throng stood

the “men of Rouen” and the “men of Cologne,” who had no voice or vote,

but looked on in the deepest anxiety to learn the will of the people.

[Illustration:

_Augustin Rischgitz._

CHARTER OF THE CITY OF LONDON GIVEN BY WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR]

Then arose an aged craftsman, and after him another, and yet a third,

and the burden of their words was the same: “I remember how King Cnut

besieged us, and behind our walls we laughed at him.”

And all the people cried, “Yea! yea!”

“And he drew his ships by the trench that he cut in the mud round the

bridge, and we fought the ships and beat him off.”

And all the people cried, “Yea! yea!”

“And we would have none but our own king, Edmund Ironside.”

And all the people cried, “Yea! yea!”

Meantime the Bishop listened and bowed his head as if in assent. And

when all had spoken, he said, “Fair citizens, it is true that King

Cnut besieged you and that you beat him off, like valiant citizens.

Remember, however, that in the end you made Cnut your king. Was he a

just king—strong in battle and in peace merciful—was he, I say, a good

king?”

And all the people lifted up their voices, “Yea, yea.” For the memory

of King Cnut was more precious with them than that of any other king

since the great King Alfred.

Much more the Bishop said. In the end, by order, as he said, of the

Folkmote—whom he had persuaded to their good, he set off with the

Portreeve and Edgar Atheling. He was ready to offer the submission

of the City on conditions. What were those conditions? They were

almost certainly similar to those which the city of Exeter afterwards

proposed: viz. that William should promise to be a law-abiding king. He

made that promise. He entered the City, whose gates were thrown open to

him.

[Illustration: A NORMAN KNIGHT

MS. 2, A. xxii.]

London made William king. What did William do for London in return? He

gave her, probably soon after his coronation, his famous Charter. It

could not have been before his coronation, because he describes himself

as king, and from the nature of the contents it must have been given

very shortly after his reign began. This document is written on a slip

of parchment no more than six inches in length and one in breadth. It

contains four lines and a quarter.

There are slight variations in the translation. The following is that

of Bishop Stubbs:—

“William, King, greets William, Bishop, and Gosfrith, Portreeve, and

all the burghers within London, French and English, friendly; and I

do you to wit that I will that ye be all law worthy that were in King

Edward’s day. And I will that every child be his father’s heir after

his father’s day. And I will not endure that any man offer any wrong to

you. God keep you.”

It is the first charter of the City.

This charter conveys in the fewest possible words the largest possible

rights and privileges. It is so clear and distinct that it was

certainly drawn up by the citizens themselves, who knew then—they have

always known ever since—what they wanted. We can read between the

lines. The citizens are saying: “Promise to grant us three points,

these three points, and we will be your loyal subjects. Refuse them,

and we will close our gates.” Had the points been put into words by the

keenest of modern lawyers, by the most far-seeing lawyer of any time,

they could not have been clearer or plainer. They leave no room at all

for evasion or misconception, and they have the strength and capability

of a young oak sapling.

The points were these: Every man was to have the rights of a freeman,

as those rights were then understood, and according to the Saxon

customs.

Secondly, every man was to inherit his father’s estate.

Thirdly, the King would suffer no man to do them wrong.

* * * * *

Consider what has grown out of these three clauses. From the first

we have derived the right, among other things, for which every man

of our race would fight to the death—the right of trial by our

fellow-citizens, _i.e._ by jury. I do not say that the citizens

understood what we call Trial by Jury, but I do say that without this

clause, trial by jury could not have grown up. London did not invent

the popular method of getting justice; but she did preserve the rights

of the freeman, as understood by Angle, Saxon, and Jute alike, and by

that act preserved for all her children developments yet to come; among

others, this method of trial, which has always impressed our people

with the belief that it is the best way of getting justice that has yet

been invented.

As for the second, the right of inheritance. This right, which includes

the right of bequest, carries with it the chief spring of enterprise,

industry, invention, and courage. Who would work if the fruits of his

work were to be taken from his children at his death by a feudal lord?

The freeman works with all his heart for himself and his family; the

slave works as little as he can for his master. The bestowal of this

right was actually equivalent to a grant—a grant by charter—to the

City—of the spirit of enterprise and courage. Who would venture into

hostile seas, and run the gauntlet of pirates, and risk storm and

shipwreck, if his gains were to be swept into the treasury of a feudal

lord?

As for the third point, the promise of personal protection, London was

left with no one to stand between the City and the King. There never

has been any one between the King and the City. In other cities there

were actually three over-lords—king, bishop, earl,—and the rights

of each one had to be separately considered. The citizens of London

have always claimed, and have always enjoyed, the privilege of direct

communication with the sovereign. No one, neither earl nor bishop, has

stood between them and their King, or claimed any rights over the City.

[Illustration: NORMAN HORSEMEN

HAROLD TRYING TO PULL THE ARROW FROM HIS EYE

NORMAN ARCHERS

From the Bayeux Tapestry.]

Now these liberties, and others that have sprung from them, we have

enjoyed so long that they have become part of ourselves. They are like

the air we breathe. When an Australian or an American builds a new

town, he brings with him, without thinking of it, the rights of the

freeman, the right of inheritance, the right of owning no master but

the State. We cannot understand a condition of society in which these

rights could be withheld. Picture to yourself, if you can, a country

in which the king imposed his own judges upon the people; a king who

could order them as he pleased; could sentence, fine, banish, imprison

or hang without any power of appeal; who could make in his own interest

his own laws without consulting any one; who could seize estates at

their owner’s death and could give the heirs what he pleased, as much

or as little; who could hand these heirs over to be the prey of a

feudal lord, who only suffered them to live in order that he might rob

them. That was the position of a city under a feudal lord, but it was

never the position of London.

It must be added that William’s Charter conferred no new liberties or

privileges upon the City. London asked for none: the City was content

with what it had. William surrendered none of the power or authority of

the sovereign. London asked for no such surrender. We shall see, in the

charters which followed, how jealously the royal authority was guarded.

From a modern point of view it would seem an unpatriotic thing for the

City to throw over the Saxon heir; but we must remember that Cnut, the

best and strongest king they had had since Alfred, was a Dane, that the

City was full of Normans, and that the memory of the Saxon Ethelred

was still rankling among them. What better argument could the Bishop

advance than the fact that William was known everywhere to be a just

man, faithful to his word, and strong—the strongest man in western

Europe? Above all things the country desired in a king, then and

always, so long as kings ruled and after kings began to reign, was that

he should be strong and faithful to his word.

The principal citizens[24]—among them Edgar Atheling himself—rode

forth, met William, and giving hostages, made their submission, and he

“concluded a treaty with them,” that is, he promised to respect their

laws. According to the _A.S. Chronicle_, William “vowed that he would

be a loving lord” to the City.

William was crowned at Westminster. It is uncertain whether the

rival whom he had slain had been crowned at Westminster or at St.

Paul’s—probably the latter, as the cathedral church of London. William,

in that case, was the first of our kings to be crowned at Westminster.

The place was chosen because it contained the tomb of the Confessor, to

whom William claimed to succeed by right.

Dean Stanley has told the story of this memorable coronation with

graphic hand. It was on Christmas Day. The vast Cathedral, which,

newly built, was filled with the burgesses of London—sturdy craftsmen

for the most part—“lithsmen” or sailors, merchants—anxious to know

whether the old custom would be observed of recognising the voice of

the people. It would: every old custom would be jealously observed. But

there was suspicion: outside, the Cathedral was guarded by companies

of Norman horse. Two prelates performed the ceremony: for the Normans,

Godfrey, Bishop of Coutances; for the English, Aldred, Archbishop of

York. Stigand, Archbishop of Canterbury, had fled into Scotland. When

the time came for the popular acclamation, both Bishops addressed the

people. Then came the old Saxon shout of election, “Yea—yea.” The

Norman soldiers, thinking this to be an outbreak of rebellion, set fire

to the Abbey Gates—why did they fire the Gates?—upon which the whole

multitude, Saxon and Norman together, poured out in terror, leaving

William alone in the church with the two Bishops and the Benedictine

monks of St. Peter’s. A stranger coronation was never seen!

Stanley points out the connection, which was kept up, of the Regalia

with King Edward the Confessor.

[Illustration: WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR AND HIS KNIGHTS (FROM THE BAYEUX

TAPESTRY)]

“The Regalia were strictly Anglo-Saxon, by their traditional names: the

crown of Alfred, or of St. Edward, for the King; the crown of Edith,

wife of the Confessor, for the Queen. The sceptre with the dove was

the reminiscence of Edward’s peaceful days after the expulsion of the

Danes. The gloves were a perpetual reminder of his abolition of the

Danegelt—a token that the King’s hands should be moderate in taking

taxes. The ring with which, as the Doge to the Adriatic, so the King

to his people was wedded, was the ring of the pilgrim. The coronation

robe of Edward was solemnly exhibited in the Abbey twice a year, at

Christmas and on the festival of its patron saints, St. Peter and St.

Paul. The ‘great stone chalice,’ which was borne by the Chancellor

to the altar, out of which the Abbot of Westminster administered the

sacramental wine, was believed to have been prized at a high sum ‘in

Saint Edward’s days.’ If after the anointing the King’s hair was not

smooth, there was King Edward’s ‘ivory comb for that end.’ The form of

the oath, retained till the time of James II., was to observe ‘the

laws of the glorious Confessor.’ A copy of the Gospels, purporting to

have belonged to Athelstane, was the book which was handed down as that

on which, for centuries, the coronation oath had been taken. On the

arras hung round the choir, at least from the thirteenth century, was

the representation of the ceremony, with words which remind us of the

analogous inscription in St. John Lateran, expressive of the peculiar

privileges of the place:—

‘Hanc regum sedem, ubi Petrus consecrat aedem,

Quam tu, Papa, regis; inungit et unctio regis.’

The Church of Westminster was called, in consequence, ‘the head, crown,

and diadem of the kingdom.’

[Illustration: BISHOPS

Royal MS. 2, B. vi.]

The Abbot of Westminster was the authorised instructor to prepare each

new king for the solemnities of the coronation, as if for confirmation;

visiting him two days before, to inform him of the observances, and

to warn him to shrive and cleanse his conscience before the holy

anointing. If he was ill, the Prior (as now the Subdean) took his

place. He was also charged with the singular office of administering

the chalice to the King and Queen, as a sign of their conjugal unity,

after their reception of the sacrament from the Archbishop. The Convent

on that day was to be provided, at the royal expense, with 100 simnels

(that is, cakes) of the best bread, a gallon of wine, and as many fish

as became the royal dignity.”

The coronation happily over, William began to build his Tower. The

City should be fortified against an enemy by its strong wall—the

stronger the better—but he was not going to allow it to be fortified

against himself. Therefore he would build one Tower on the east and

another on the west of the City wall, so that he could command ingress

or egress, and also the river above or below the bridge. The Tower

on the east became the great White Tower, that in the west was the

Castle Montfichet. He was, however, in no hurry to build the greater

fortress: the City was loyal and well disposed, he would wait: besides,

he had already one foot in the City in Montfichet Tower. So it was not

until eleven years after Hastings that he commanded Gundulf, Bishop

of Rochester, to undertake the work. The history of the Tower will be

found in its place. It took more than thirty years to build.

[Illustration: THE SEAL OF ODO, BISHOP OF BAYEUX, HALF-BROTHER OF

WILLIAM I.

_Archæologia_, vol. i.]

One of the many great fires which have from time to time ravaged London

occurred in 1077, and another in 1087 or 1088; this burned St. Paul’s.

Maurice, Bishop of London, began at once to rebuild it. Matthew of

Westminster, writing at the beginning of the fourteenth century, says

“_necdum perfectum est_.”

It is a great pity that William’s _Domesday Book_ does not include

London. Had it done so, we should have had a Directory, a Survey, of

the Norman City. We should have known the extent of the population,

the actual trades, the wealth, the civic offices, the markets, motes,

hustings, all. What we know, it is true, amounts to a good deal; it

seems as if we know all; only those who try to restore the life of

early London can understand the gaps in our knowledge, and the many

dark places into which we vainly try to peer.

A second Charter granted by William the Conqueror is also preserved at

the Guildhall. It is translated as follows:—

“William the King friendly, salutes William the Bishop and Sweyn the

Sheriff, and all my Thanes in East Saxony, whom I hereby acquaint that

I have granted to Deorman my man, the hide of land at Geddesdune, of

which he was deprived. And I will not suffer either the French or the

English to hurt them in anything.”

Of this Deorman or Derman, Round (_Commune of London_, p. 106) makes

mention. Among the witnesses to a Charter by Geoffrey de Mandeville,

occurs the name of “Thierri son of Deorman.” It is impossible not

to suppose that this “Deorman” is the same as William’s “man” of

the Charter. Thierri belonged to a rich and prosperous family; his

son Bertram held his grandfather’s property at Navington Barrow in

Islington, and was a benefactor to the nuns of Clerkenwell. Bertram’s

son Thomas bestowed a serf upon St. Paul’s about the beginning of the

thirteenth century.

It has always been stated that William the Conqueror brought Jews

over with him. But Mr. Joseph Jacobs (_Jews of Angevin England_),

investigating this tradition, inclines to believe that there were no

Jews in England before the year 1073 or thereabouts, when there is

evidence of their residence in London, Oxford, and Cambridge. Their

appointed residence in London was Old Jewry, north of Cheapside.

Stanley recalls the memory of one of those mediæval miracles which seem

invented in a spirit of allegory in order to teach or to illustrate

some great truth. It was a miracle performed at the tomb of Edward the

Confessor:—

“When, after the revolution of the Norman Conquest, a French and

foreign hierarchy was substituted for the native prelates, one Saxon

bishop alone remained—Wulfstan, Bishop of Worcester. A Council was

summoned to Westminster, over which the Norman king and the Norman

primate presided, and Wulfstan was declared incapable of holding his

office because he could not speak French. The old man, down to this

moment compliant even to excess, was inspired with unusual energy.

He walked from St. Catherine’s Chapel, where the Council was held,

straight into the Abbey. The King and the prelates followed. He laid

his pastoral staff on the Confessor’s tomb before the high altar.

First he spoke in Saxon to the dead king: ‘Edward, thou gavest me the

staff: to thee I return it.’ Then, with the best Norman words that

he could command, he turned to the living king: ‘A better than thou

gave it to me—take it if thou canst.’ It remained fixed in the solid

stone, and Wulfstan was left at peace in his see. Long afterwards King

John, in arguing for the supremacy of the Crown of England in matters

ecclesiastical, urged this story at length in answer to the claims

of the Papal Legate. Pandulf answered, with a sneer, that John was

more like the Conqueror than the Confessor. But, in fact, John had

rightly discerned the principle at stake, and the legend expressed the

deep-seated feeling of the English people, that in the English Crown

and Law lies the true safeguard of the rights of the English clergy.

Edward the Confessor’s tomb thus, like the Abbey which incases it,

contains an aspect of the complex union of Church and State, of which

all English history is a practical fulfilment.” (_Westminster Abbey_,

p. 35.)

The City already contained a mixed population of Saxons, Danes,

Normans—“men of Rouen,” and Germans—“men of the Emperor.” There were

also Norwegians, Flemings, Gascons, and others of foreign descent in

the City when William succeeded. Without insisting too strongly on

the actual magnitude of the trade, small indeed compared with that

which was to follow, we may point to this gathering of various peoples

as a proof that the trade of London was already considered by the

whole of western Europe as considerable, and, indeed, of the highest

importance. Many more Normans came over after the Conquest. It is

said that they chose London in preference to Rouen, because it was

“fitter for their trade, and better stored with the merchandise in

which they were wont to traffic.” There was also a large settlement

of craftsmen in London and in other towns; among them, especially,

were weavers and builders. Of these the weavers became, and remained

for many generations, extremely unpopular. Cunningham (_Growth of

English Industry and Commerce_, p. 179) suggests an explanation for the

otherwise unintelligible hostility of the people towards the weavers.

He thinks that before the Conquest weaving was not a national industry;

that weavers were brought over by William and remained foreigners, not

as taking “scot and lot” with the people.

William appears to have been true to his word as regards the City: he

neither oppressed the people himself, nor did he suffer others to do

them any harm.

FOOTNOTES:

[24] “Aldred, Archbishop of York; Wulfstan, Bishop of Worcester;

Walter, Bishop of Hereford; Edgar the Atheling; the Earls Edwin

and Morcar, and other Londoners of the better sort.” (Florence of

Worcester.)

Early London: Prehistoric, Roman, Saxon and Norman · 第 1 / 10 章