Emberiza hortulena, LINNÆUS; L'Ortolan, BUFFON; Der
Gartenammer, BECHSTEIN.
It is necessary to give a very exact description of this species, as not
only bird-catchers, but even some naturalists, give the name of Ortolan
to several very different species. Under this name the former sell all
rare birds of this kind. The true ortolan has a wider breast and
stronger beak than the yellowhammer; it is six inches and a half in
length, of which the tail measures two and a half; the beak, six inches
long, is thick at the base, with a bony tubercle at the palate, and is
of a yellowish flesh-colour; the iris dark brown. The legs, which stand
ten lines in height, are flesh-coloured; the head and neck is greyish
olive; the throat and a streak on the neck from the angle of the beak,
deep yellow.
The female is rather smaller, of a changeable shining ash-colour on its
head and neck, streaked with fine black lines. Its breast, and the upper
and under part of its body, are lighter than in the male.
The throat of the young male birds, before the first moulting, is of a
light yellow, with a mixture of grey; the breast and belly are of a
reddish yellow, speckled with grey, which make them rather resemble
young yellowhammers. A bird fancier will distinguish the two sexes even
in the nest. There are white, yellow, speckled, and in the house
sometimes even black varieties.
HABITATION.--In its wild state the ortolan is principally found in the
southern and temperate parts of Europe, and is not scarce in some of
the provinces of Germany; but if attention were paid to them there,
they might be seen in every direction on their passage; for though
they may not remain during the summer in a district, yet they make
some stay, never passing over a great space of country at a time.
Their route is so exact and regular, that when one has been seen in a
particular spot, especially if in spring, it is sure to be found
there the following year at the same time. They fly rather in
families than flocks: the time of their arrival in Germany is towards
the end of April, or beginning of May; they are then met with in
orchards, amongst brambles or in groves, where they build,
particularly if millet is cultivated in the neighbourhood. During
harvest they frequent the fields in families, and leave after the
oats are gathered in[34].
In the house, if much valued, they are given a cage; but in countries
where they are common they are let run about free.
FOOD.--In their wild state they live on insects and grain. In the
house they are fed, if in a cage, on millet, hemp seed, and prepared
oats; if at liberty in a room the universal paste suits them very
well. These birds, being rather delicate, cannot often be preserved
beyond three or four years.
DISEASES.--The most common disease of these birds is atrophy, to cure
or prevent which it is necessary to know how properly to mix and vary
animal with vegetable food; but this calls for a greater degree of
attention and care than most persons are willing to give.
MANNER OF TAKING.--In spring these birds are easily attracted to a
decoy bush, by a female of their own species, or a yellowhammer. In
August a turfy place should be chosen near brambles, to form a small
area, as a decoy, like that made for chaffinches. It must be
surrounded with a low hedge, with some oat-ears fastened to it. About
the area should be placed one or several birds of call, especially a
perching bird, that is to say, a bird of the same species, with a
band of soft leather round it, and confined by a small string,
fastened to a peg-stick in the ground, which prevents its going
beyond the prescribed limits. Here it should be given plenty of food
and water, in order that the birds to be caught may be the more
easily attracted within the area, from seeing one of their own
species in a place of abundance. This kind of decoy bird is often
more necessary than any other.
ATTRACTIVE QUALITIES.--The fine form and colours of the ortolan would
be sufficient to render it desirable, but still more so its
flute-like warbling, so clear and full, which has some resemblance
to that of the yellowhammer, only that the last notes are much
deeper.
Ever since ortolans have been known to epicures as a delicacy, they
have been fattened with great care. The common way is to keep them in
a room only lighted by lanterns, so that they cannot distinguish day
from night: they are then plentifully fed on oats, millet, and the
crumb of white bread, made up with good spice. In a short time they
become so fat that they would be suffocated if not killed at once. An
ortolan thus fed is a perfect ball of most delicious fat, weighing
about three ounces.