CHAPTER VII.

THE GREAT LAKES--THEIR SHARE IN THE MARITIME TRAFFIC OF THE UNITED

STATES--THE EARLIEST RECORDED VOYAGERS--INDIANS AND FUR TRADERS--THE PIGMY

CANAL AT THE SAULT STE. MARIE--BEGINNINGS OF NAVIGATION BY SAILS--DE LA

SALLE AND THE "GRIFFIN"--RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY LAKE SEAMEN--THE LAKES AS

A HIGHWAY FOR WESTWARD EMIGRATION--THE FIRST STEAMBOAT--EFFECT OF MINERAL

DISCOVERIES ON LAKE SUPERIOR--THE ORE-CARRYING FLEET--THE WHALEBACKS--THE

SEAMEN OF THE LAKES--THE GREAT CANAL AT THE "SOO"--THE CHANNEL TO

BUFFALO--BARRED OUT FROM THE OCEAN.

In the heart of the North American Continent, forming in part the boundary

line between the United States and the British possessions to the north,

lies that chain of great freshwater lakes bordered by busy and rapidly

growing commonwealths, washing the water-fronts of rich and populous

cities, and bearing upon their steely blue bosoms a commerce which outdoes

that of the Mediterranean in the days of its greatest glory. The old salt,

the able seaman who has rounded the Horn, the skipper who has stood

unflinchingly at the helm while the green seas towered over the stern,

looks with contempt upon the fresh-water sailor and his craft. Not so the

man of business or the statesman. The growth of lake traffic has been one

of the most marvelous and the most influential factors in the industrial

development of the United States. By it has been systematized and brought

to the highest form of organization the most economical form of freight

carriage in the world. Through it has been made possible the enormous

reduction in the price of American steel that has enabled us to invade

foreign markets, and promises to so reduce the cost of our ships, that we

may be able to compete again in ship-building, with the yards of the Clyde

and the Tyne. Along the shores of these unsalted seas, great shipyards are

springing up, that already build ships more cheaply than can be done

anywhere else in the world, and despite the obstacles of shallow canals,

and the treacherous channels of the St. Lawrence, have been able to build

and send to tidewater, ocean ships in competition with the seacoast

builders. The present of the lake marine is secure; its future is full of

promise. Its story, if lacking in the elements of romance that attend upon

the ocean's story, is well worth telling.

A decade more than two centuries ago a band of Iroquois Indians made their

way in bark canoes from Lake Ontario up Lake Erie to the Detroit River,

across Lake St. Clair, and thence through Lake Huron to Point Iroquois.

They were the first navigators of the Great Lakes, and that they were not

peace-loving boatmen, is certain from the fact that they traveled all

these miles of primeval waterway for the express purpose of battle.

History records that they had no difficulty in bringing on a combat with

the Illinois tribes, and in an attempt to displace the latter from Point

Iroquois, the invaders were destroyed after a six-days' battle.

It is still a matter of debate among philosophical historians, whether

war, trade, or missionary effort has done the more toward opening the

strange, wild places of the world. Each, doubtless, has done its part, but

we shall find in the story of the Great Lakes, that the war canoes of the

savages were followed by the Jesuit missionaries, and these in turn by the

bateaux of the voyageurs employed by the Hudson Bay Company.

After the Iroquois had learned the way, trips of war canoes up and down

the lakes, were annual occurrences, and warfare was almost perpetual. In

1680 the Iroquois, 700 strong, invaded Illinois, killed 1200 of the tribe

there established, and drove the rest beyond the Mississippi. For years

after the Iroquois nation were the rulers of the water-front between Lake

Erie and Lake Huron. While this tribe was in undisputed possession,

commerce had little to do with the navigation of the Great Lakes. The

Indians went up and down the shores on long hunting trips, but war was the

principal business, and every canoe was equipped for a fray at any time.

A story is told of a great naval battle that was fought on Lake Erie,

nearly two centuries before the first steamer made its appearance on that

placid water. A Wyandot prince, so the tale goes, fell in love with a

beautiful princess of the Seneca tribe, who was the promised bride of a

chief of her own nation. The warrior failed to win the heart of the dusky

maiden, and goaded to desperation, entered the Senecas country by night,

and carried off the lady. War immediately followed, and was prosecuted

with great cruelty and slaughter for a long time. At last a final battle

was fought, in which the Wyandots were worsted and forced to flee in great

haste. The fugitives planned to cross the ice of the Straits (Detroit)

River, but found it broken up and floating down stream. Their only

alternative was to throw themselves on the floating ice and leap from cake

to cake; they thus made their escape to the Canadian shore, and joined the

tribes of the Pottawatomies, Ottawas, and Chippewas. A year later the

Wyandots, equipped with light birch canoes, set out to defeat the Senecas,

and succeeded in inducing them to give combat on the water. The Senecas

made a fatal mistake and came out to meet the enemy in their

clumsily-constructed boats hollowed out of the trunks of trees. After

much maneuvering the birch canoe fleet proceeded down Lake Erie to the

head of Long Point, with the Senecas in hot pursuit. In the center of the

lake the Wyandots turned and gave the Senecas so hot a reception that they

were forced to flee, but could not make good their escape in their clumsy

craft, and were all slain but one man, who was allowed to return and

report the catastrophe to his own nation. This closed the war.

Legends are preserved that lead to the belief that there may have been

navigators of the Great Lakes before the Indians, and it is generally

believed that the latter were not the first occupants of the Lake Superior

region. It is said that the Lake Superior country was frequently visited

by a barbaric race, for the purpose of obtaining copper, and it is quite

possible that these people may have been skilled navigators.

[Illustration: THE WOODEN BATEAUX OF THE FUR TRADERS ]

Commercial navigation of the Great Lakes, curiously enough, first assumed

importance in the least accessible portion. The Hudson Bay Company, always

extending its territory toward the northwest, sent its bateaux and canoes

into Lake Superior early in the seventeenth century. To accommodate this

traffic the company dug a canal around the falls of the St. Marie River,

at the point we now call "the Soo." In time this pigmy progenitor of the

busiest canal in the world, became filled with débris, and its very

existence forgotten; but some years ago a student in the thriving town of

Sault Ste. Marie, poring over some old books of the Hudson Bay Company,

noticed several references to the company's canal. What canal could it be?

His curiosity was aroused, and with the aid of the United States engineers

in charge of the new improvements, he began a painstaking investigation.

In time the line of the old ditch was discovered, and, indeed, it was no

more than a ditch, two and a half feet deep, by eight or nine wide. One

lock was built, thirty-eight feet long, with a lift of nine feet. The

floor and sills of this lock were discovered, and the United States

Government has since rebuilt it in stone, that visitors to the Soo may

turn from the massive new locks, through which steel steamships of eight

thousand tons pass all day long through the summer months, to gaze on the

strait and narrow gate which once opened the way for all the commerce of

Lake Superior. But through that gate there passed a picturesque and

historic procession. Canoes spurred along by tufted Indians with

black-robed Jesuit missionaries for passengers; the wooden bateaux of the

fur traders, built of wood and propelled by oars, and carrying gangs of

turbulent trappers and voyageurs; the company's chief factors in swift

private craft, making for the west to extend the influence of the great

corporation still further into the wilderness, all passed through the

little canal and avoided the roaring waters of the Ste. Marie. It was but

a narrow gate, but it played its part in the opening of the West.

War, which is responsible for most of the checks to civilization, whether

or not it may in some instances advance the skirmish line of civilized

peoples, destroyed the pioneer canal. For in 1812 some Americans being in

that part of the country, thought it would be a helpful contribution to

their national defense if they blew up the lock and shattered the canal,

as it was on Canadian soil. Accordingly this was done, of course without

the slightest effect on the conflict then raging, but much to the

discomfort and loss of the honest voyageurs and trappers of the Lake

Superior region, whose interest in the war could hardly have been very

serious.

So far as history records the first sailing vessel to spread its wings on

the Great Lakes beyond Niagara Falls, was the "Griffin," built by the

Chevalier de la Salle in 1679, near the point where Buffalo now stands. La

Salle had brought to this point French ship-builders and carpenters,

together with sailors, to navigate the craft when completed. It was his

purpose to proceed in this vessel to the farthest corners of the Great

Lakes, establish trading and trapping stations, and take possession of the

country in the name of France. He was himself conciliatory with the

Indians and liked by them, but jealousies among the French themselves,

stirred up savage antagonism to him, and his ship narrowly escaped burning

while still on the stocks. In August of 1679, however, she was launched, a

brigantine of sixty tons burden, mounting five small cannon and three

arquebuses. Her model is said to have been not unlike that of the caravels

in which Columbus made his famous voyage, and copies of which were

exhibited at the Columbian Exposition. Bow and stern were high and almost

alike. Yet in this clumsy craft La Salle voyaged the whole length of Lake

Erie, passed through the Detroit River, and St. Clair River and lake;

proceeded north to Mackinaw, and thence south in Lake Michigan and into

Green Bay. It was the first time any vessel under sail had entered those

waters. Maps and charts there were none. The swift rushing waters of the

Detroit River flowed smoothly over limestone reefs, which the steamers of

to-day pass cautiously, despite the Government channels, cut deep and

plainly lighted. The flats, that broad expanse of marsh permeated by a

maze of false channels above Detroit, had to be threaded with no chart or

guide. Yet the "Griffin" made St. Ignace in twenty days from having set

sail, a record which is often not equaled by lumber schooners of the

present time. From Green Bay, La Salle sent the vessel back with a cargo

of furs that would have made him rich for life, had it ever reached a

market. But the vessel disappeared, and for years nothing was heard of

her. Finally La Salle learned that a half-breed pilot, who had shown signs

of treachery on the outward trip, had persuaded the crew to run her ashore

in the Detroit River, and themselves to take the valuable cargo. But the

traitors had reckoned without the savage Indians of the neighborhood, who

also coveted the furs and pelts. While the crew were trying to dispose of

these the red men set upon them and slew them all. The "Griffin" never

again floated on the lakes.

It is difficult to determine the time when sailing vessels next appeared

upon the lakes, but it was certainly not for nearly seventy-five years.

Captain Jonathan Carver reported a French schooner on Lake Superior about

1766, and in 1772 Alexander Harvey built a forty-ton sloop on the same

lake, in which he sought the site of a famous copper mine. But it was long

before Lake Superior showed more than an infrequent sail, though on Lake

Erie small vessels soon became common. Even in 1820 the furs of Lake

Superior were sent down to Chicago in bateaux.

Two small sailing vessels, the "Beaver" and the "Gladwin," which proved

very valuable to the besieged garrison at Detroit in 1763, were the next

sailing vessels on the lakes, and are supposed to have been built by the

English the year previous. It is said, that through the refusal of her

captain to take ballast aboard, the "Gladwin" was capsized on Lake Erie

and lost, and the entire crew drowned. The "Royal Charlotte," the

"Boston," and the "Victory" appeared on the lakes a few years later, and

went into commission between Fort Erie (Buffalo) and Detroit, carrying the

first year 1,464 bales of fur to Fort Erie, and practically establishing

commercial navigation.

It is hard to look clearly into the future. If the recommendations of one

J. Collins, deputy surveyor-general of the British Government, had

governed the destiny of the Great Lakes, the traffic between Buffalo and

the Soo by water, would to-day be in boats of fifteen tons or less. Under

orders of the English Government, Collins in 1788 made a survey of all the

lakes and harbors from Kingston to Mackinac, and in his report, expressing

his views as to the size of vessels that should be built for service on

the lakes, he said he thought that for service on Lake Ontario vessels

should be seventy-five or eighty tons burden, and on Lake Erie, if

expected to run to Lake Huron, they should be not more than fifteen tons.

What a stretch of imagination is necessary to conceive of the great volume

of traffic of the present time, passing Detroit in little schooners not

much larger than catboats that skim around the lakes! Imagine such a

corporation as the Northern Steamship Company, with its big fleet of steel

steamers, attempting to handle its freight business in sailing vessels of

a size that the average wharf-rat of the present time would disdain to

pilot. What a rush of business there would be at the Marine Post-Office in

Detroit, if some day this company would decide to cut off three of its

large steamers and send out enough schooners of the size recommended by

the English officer, to take their place! The fleet would comprise at

least 318 vessels, and would require not fewer than 1500 seamen to

navigate. It is sometimes said that there is a continual panorama of

vessels passing up and down the rivers of the Great Lakes, but what if the

Englishman had guessed right? Happily he did not, and vessels of 1500 tons

can navigate the connecting waters of Lake Huron and Lake Erie much better

than those of fifteen tons could in his time. That the early ship-builders

did not pay much attention to J. Collins, is evident from the fact that,

when the Detroit was surrendered to the Americans in 1796, twelve merchant

vessels were owned there of from fifty to one hundred tons each.

[Illustration: "THE RED-MEN SET UPON THEM AND SLEW THEM ALL"]

At the close of the eighteenth century the American sailor had hardly

superseded the red men as a navigator, and lake vessels were not much more

plentiful than airships are nowadays. Indeed, the entire fleet in 1799, so

far as can be learned, was as follows: The schooners "Nancy," "Swan," and

"Naegel;" the sloops "Sagina," "Detroit," "Beaver," "Industry,"

"Speedwell," and "Arabaska." This was the fleet, complete, of Lakes Huron,

Erie, and Michigan.

"A wild-looking set were the first white sailors of the lakes," says

Hubbard in his "Memorials of Half a Century." "Their weirdness was often

enhanced by the dash of Indian blood, and they are better described as

rangers of the woods and waters. Picturesque, too, they were in their red

flannel or leather shirts and cloth caps of some gay color, finished to a

point which hung over on one side with a depending tassel. They had a

genuine love for their occupation, and muscles that never seemed to tire

at the paddle and oar. These were not the men who wanted steamboats and

fast sailing vessels. These men had a real love for canoeing, and from

dawn to sunset, with only a short interval, and sometimes no midday rest,

they would ply the oars, causing the canoe or barge to shoot through the

water like a thing of life, but often contending against head winds and

gaining little progress in a day's rowing."

[Illustration: ONE OF THE FIRST LAKE SAILORS]

One of the earliest American sailors on a lake ship bigger than a bateau,

was "Uncle Dacy" Johnson, of Cleveland, who sailed for fifty years,

beginning about 1850. "When I was a chunk of a boy," says the old Captain

in a letter to a New York paper, "I put a thirty-two pound bundle on my

back and started on foot to Buffalo. I made the journey to Albany, N.Y.,

from Bridgeport, Conn., in sixteen days, which was nothing remarkable, as

I had $3 in money, and a bundle of food. Many a poor fellow I knew started

on the same journey with nothing but an axe. When I arrived at Buffalo I

found a very small town--Cleveland, Sandusky, and Erie, were all larger.

There were only two lighthouses on the lakes, one at Buffalo, which was

the first one built, and the other one at Erie. Buffalo was then called

Fort Erie, and was a struggling little town. My first trip as a sailor was

made from Buffalo to Erie, which was then considered quite a voyage. From

Buffalo to Detroit was looked upon as a long voyage, and a vessel of

thirty-two tons was the largest ship on the lakes. In 1813 I was one of a

crew of four who left Buffalo on the sloop 'Commencement' with a cargo of

whisky for Erie. While beating along shore the English frigate 'Charlotte'

captured us and two boatloads of red-coats boarded our vessel and took us

prisoners. We were paroled on shipboard the same day, and before night

concocted a scheme to get the Englishmen drunk on our whisky. One of our

fellows got drunk first, and told of our intentions, the plot was

frustrated, and we narrowly escaped being hung."

[Illustration: "TWO BOAT-LOADS OF REDCOATS BOARDED US AND TOOK US

PRISONERS"]

Once begun, the conquest of the lakes as a highway for trade was rapid. We

who live in the days of railroads can hardly appreciate how tremendous was

the impetus given to the upbuilding of a region if it possessed

practicable waterways. The whole history of the settlement of the Middle

West is told in the story of its rivers and lakes. The tide of

immigration, avoiding the dense forests haunted by Indians, the rugged

mountains, and the broad prairies into which the wheel of the heavy-laden

wagon cut deep, followed the course of the Potomac and the Ohio, the

Hudson, Mohawk, and the Great Lakes. Streams that have long since ceased

to be thought navigable for a boy's canoe were made to carry the settlers'

few household goods heaped on a flatboat. The flood of families going West

created a demand that soon covered the lakes with schooners and brigs.

Landed on the lake shore near some little stream, the immigrants would

build flatboats, and painfully pole their way into the interior to some

spot that took their fancy. Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, and Illinois thus

filled up, towns growing by the side of streams now used only to turn

mill-wheels, but which in their day determined where the prosperous

settlement should be.

The steamboat was not slow in making its appearance on the lakes. In 1818,

while it was still an experiment on the seaboard, one of these craft

appeared on Lake Erie. The "Walk-in-the-Water" was her name, suggestive of

Indian nomenclature and, withal, exceedingly descriptive. She made the

trip from Buffalo to Detroit, not infrequently taking thirteen days. She

was a side-wheeler, a model which still holds favor on the lower lakes,

though virtually abandoned on the ocean and on Lake Superior. An oil

painting of this little craft, still preserved, shows her without a

pilot-house, steered by a curious tiller at the stern, with a smokestack

like six lengths of stovepipe, and huge unboxed wheels. She is said to

have been a profitable craft, often carrying as many as fifty passengers

on the voyage, for which eighteen dollars was charged. For four years she

held a monopoly of the business. Probably the efforts of Fulton and

Livingstone to protect the monopoly which had been granted them by the

State of New York, and the determination of James Roosevelt to maintain

what he claimed to be his exclusive right to the vertical paddle-wheel,

delayed the extension of steam navigation on the lakes as it did on the

great rivers. After four years of solitary service on Lake Erie, the

"Walk-in-the-Water" was wrecked in an October storm. Crowded with

passengers, she rode out a heavy gale through a long night. At daybreak

the cables parted and she went ashore, but no lives were lost. Her loss

was considered an irreparable calamity by the settlers at the western end

of the lake. "This accident," wrote an eminent citizen of Detroit, "may

be considered one of the greatest misfortunes which has ever befallen

Michigan, for, in addition to its having deprived us of all certain and

speedy communication with the civilized world, I am fearful it will

greatly check the progress of immigration and improvement."

It is scarcely necessary to note now that the apprehensions of the worthy

citizen of Michigan were unfounded. Steam navigation on the lakes was no

more killed by the loss of the pioneer craft than was transatlantic steam

navigation ended by the disapproving verdict of the scientists. Nowhere in

the world is there such a spectacle of maritime activity, nowhere such a

continuous procession of busy cargo-ships as in the Detroit River, and

through the colossal locks of the "Soo" canals. In 1827 the first

steamboat reached the Sault Ste. Marie, bearing among her passengers

General Winfield Scott, on a visit of inspection to the military post

there, but she made no effort to enter the great lake. About five years

later, the first "smoke boat," as the Indians called the steamers, reached

Chicago, the pigmy forerunner of the fleet of huge leviathans that all the

summer long, nowadays, blacken Chicago's sky with their torrents of smoke,

and keep the hurrying citizens fuming at the open draw of a bridge. All

side-wheelers were these pioneers, wooden of course, and but sorry

specimens of marine architecture, but they opened the way for great

things. For some years longer the rushing torrent of the Ste. Marie's kept

Lake Superior tightly closed to steamboats, but about 1840 the richness of

the copper mines bordering upon that lake began to attract capital, and

the need of steam navigation became crying. In 1845 men determined to put

some sort of a craft upon the lake that would not be dependent upon the

whims of wind and sails for propulsion. Accordingly, the sloop "Ocean," a

little craft of fifteen tons, was fitted out with an engine and wheels at

Detroit and towed to the "Soo." There she was dragged out of the water and

made the passage between the two lakes on rollers. The "Independence," a

boat of about the same size, was treated in the same way later in the

year. Scarcely anything in the history of navigation, unless it be the

first successful application of steam to the propulsion of boats is of

equal importance with the first appearance of steamboats in Lake Superior.

It may be worth while to abandon for a moment the orderly historical

sequence of this narrative, to emphasize the wonderful contrast between

the commerce of Lake Superior in the days of the "Independence" and

now--periods separated by scarcely sixty years. To-day the commerce of

that lake is more than half of all the great lakes combined. It is

conducted in steel vessels, ranging from 1500 to 8500 tons, and every year

sees an increase in their size. In 1901 more than 27,000,000 tons of

freight were carried in Lake Superior vessels, a gain of nearly 3,000,000

over the year before. The locks in the "Soo" canal, of which more later,

have twice had to be enlarged, while the Canadian Government has built a

canal of its own on the other side of the river. The discovery and

development of the wonderful deposits of iron ore at the head of the lake

have proved the greatest factors in the upbuilding of its commerce, and

the necessity for getting this ore to the mills in Illinois, Ohio, and

Pennsylvania, has resulted in the creation of a class of colossal

cargo-carriers on the lake that for efficiency and results, though not for

beauty, outdo any vessel known to maritime circles.

[Illustration: A VANISHING TYPE ON THE LAKES]

At the present time, when the project of a canal to connect the Atlantic

and Pacific oceans at the Central American Isthmus has almost passed out

of the sphere of discussion and into that of action, there is

suggestiveness in the part that the canal at the "Soo" played in

stimulating lake commerce. Until it was dug, the lake fleets grew but

slowly, and the steamers were but few and far between. Freight rates were

high, and the schooners and sloops made but slow passages. From an old

bill, of about 1835, we learn that freight rates between Detroit and

Cleveland, or Lake Erie points and Buffalo, were about as follows: Flour,

thirty cents a barrel; all grain, ten cents a bushel; beef, pork, ashes,

and whisky, thirteen cents a hundred pounds; skins and furs, thirty-one

cents a hundred weight; staves, from Detroit to Buffalo, $6.25 a thousand.

In 1831 there were but 111 vessels of all sorts on the lakes. In five

years, the fleet had grown to 262, and in 1845, the year when the first

steamer entered Lake Superior, to 493. In 1855, the year the "Soo" canal

was opened, there were in commission 1196 vessels, steam and sail, on the

unsalted seas. Then began the era of prodigious development, due chiefly

to that canal which Henry Clay, great apostle as he was of internal

improvements, said would be beyond the remotest range of settlements in

the United States or in the moon.

At the head of Lake Superior are almost illimitable beds of iron ore which

looks like rich red earth, and is scooped up by the carload with steam

shovels. Tens of thousands of men are employed in digging this ore and

transporting it to the nearest lake port--Duluth and West Superior being

the largest shipping points. Railroads built and equipped for the single

purpose of carrying the ore are crowded with rumbling cars day and night,

and at the wharves during the eight or nine months of the year when

navigation is open lie great steel ships, five hundred feet long, with a

capacity of from six thousand to nine thousand tons of ore. Perhaps in no

branch of marine architecture has the type best fitted to the need been so

scientifically determined as in planning these ore boats. They are cargo

carriers only, and all considerations of grace or beauty are rigidly

eliminated from their design. The bows are high to meet and part the heavy

billows of the tempestuous lakes, for they are run as late into the stormy

fall and early winter season as the ice will permit. From the forward

quarter the bulwarks are cut away, the high bow sheltering the forecastle

with the crews, while back of it rises a deck-house of steel, containing

the officers' rooms, and bearing aloft the bridge and wheel-house. Three

hundred feet further aft rises another steel deck-house, above the engine,

and between extends the long, flat deck, broken only by hatches every few

feet, battened down almost level with the deck floor. During the summer,

all too short for the work the busy iron carriers have to do, these boats

are run at the top of their speed, and on schedules that make the economy

of each minute essential. So they are built in such fashion as to make

loading as easy and as rapid as possible. Sometimes there are as many as

fourteen or sixteen hatches in one of these great ships, into each of

which while loading the ore chutes will be pouring their red flood, and

out of each of which the automatic unloaders at Cleveland or Erie will

take ten-ton bites of the cargo, until six or seven thousand tons of iron

ore may be unloaded in eight hours. The hold is all one great store-room,

no deck above the vessel's floor except the main deck. No water-tight

compartments or bulkheads divide it as in ocean ships, and all the

machinery is placed far in the stern. The vessel is simply a great steel

packing-box, with rounded ends, made strong to resist the shock of waves

and the impact of thousands of tons of iron poured in from a bin as high

above the floor as the roof of a three-story building. With vessels such

as these, the cost of carrying ore has been reduced below the level of

freight charges in any part of the world.

Yet comfort and speed are by no means overlooked. The quarters of the

officers and men are superior to those provided on most of the ocean

liners, and vastly better than anything offered by the "ocean tramps."

Many of the ships have special guest-cabins fitted up for their owners,

rivalling the cabins _de luxe_ of the ocean greyhounds. The speed of the

newer ships will average from fourteen to sixteen knots, and one of them

in a season will make as many as twenty round trips between Duluth and

Cleveland. Often one will tow two great steel barges almost as large as

herself, great ore tanks without machinery of any kind and mounting two

slender masts chiefly for signaling purposes, but also for use in case of

being cut adrift. For a time, the use of these barges, with their great

stowage capacity in proportion to their total displacement, was thought to

offer the cheapest way of carrying ore. One mining company went very

heavily into building these craft, figuring that every steamer could tow

two or three of them, giving thus for each engine and crew a load of

perhaps twenty-four thousand tons. But, seemingly, this expectation has

been disappointed, for while the barges already constructed are in active

use, most of the companies have discontinued building them. Indeed, at the

moment of the preparation of this book, there were but two steel barges

building in all the shipyards of the great lakes.

Another form of lake vessel of which great things were expected, but which

disappointed its promotors, is the "whaleback," commonly called by the

sailors "pigs." These are cigar-shaped craft, built of steel, their decks,

from the bridge aft to the engine-house, rounded like the back of a whale,

and carried only a few feet above the water. In a sea, the greater part of

the deck is all awash, and a trip from the bridge to the engine-house

means not only repeated duckings, but a fair chance of being swept

overboard. The first of these boats, called the "101," was built in

sections, the plates being forged at Cleveland, and the bow and stern

built at Wilmington, Del. The completed structure was launched at Duluth.

In after years she was taken to the ocean, went round Cape Horn, and was

finally wrecked on the north Pacific coast. At the time of the Columbian

Exposition, a large passenger-carrying whaleback, the "Christopher

Columbus," was built, which still plies on Lake Michigan, though there is

nothing discernible in the way of practical advantage in this design for

passenger vessels. For cargo carrying there would seem to be much in the

claims of their inventor, Alexander McDougall, for their superior capacity

and stability, yet they have not been generally adopted. The largest

whaleback now on the lakes is named after Mr. McDougall, is four hundred

and thirty feet over all, fifty feet beam, and of eight thousand tons

capacity. She differs from the older models in having a straight stem

instead of the "pig's nose."

[Illustration: THE "WHALEBACK"]

The iron traffic which has grown to such monster proportions, and created

so noble a fleet of ships, began in 1856, when the steamer "Ontonagon"

shipped two hundred and ninety-six tons of ore at Duluth. To-day, one

ship of a fleet numbering hundreds will carry nine thousand tons, and

make twenty trips a season. Mr. Waldon Fawcett, who has published in the

"Century Magazine" a careful study of this industry, estimates the total

ore cargoes for a year at about 20,000,000 tons. The ships of the ore

fleet will range from three hundred and fifty to five hundred feet in

length, with a draft of about eighteen feet--at which figure it must stop

until harbors and channels are deepened. Their cost will average $350,000.

The cargoes are worth upward of $100,000,000 annually, and the cost of

transportation has been so reduced that in some instances a ton is carried

twenty miles for one cent. The seamen, both on quarterdeck and forecastle,

will bear comparison with their salt-water brethren for all qualities of

manhood. Indeed, the lot of the sailor on the lakes naturally tends more

to the development of his better qualities than does that of the

salt-water jack, for he is engaged by the month, or season, rather than by

the trip; he is never in danger of being turned adrift in a foreign port,

nor of being "shanghaied" in a home one. He has at least three months in

winter to fit himself for shore work if he desires to leave the water, and

during the season he is reasonably sure of seeing his family every

fortnight. A strong trades-union among the lake seamen keeps wages up and

regulates conditions of employment. At the best, however, seafaring on

either lake or ocean is but an ill-paid calling, and the earnings of the

men who command and man the great ore-carriers are sorely out of

proportion to the profits of the employing corporations. Mr. Fawcett

asserts that $11,250 net earnings for a single trip was not unusual in one

season, and that this sum might have been increased by $4500 had the

owners taken a return cargo of coal instead of rushing back light for more

ore. As the vessels of the ore fleet are owned in the main by the steel

trust, their earnings are a consideration second to their efficiency in

keeping the mills supplied with ore.

The great canal at Sault Ste. Marie which has caused this prodigious

development of the lake shipping has been under constant construction and

reconstruction for almost half a century. It had its origin in a gift of

750,000 acres of public lands from the United States Government to the

State of Michigan. The State, in its turn, passed the lands on to a

private company which built the canal. This work was wholly

unsatisfactory, and very wisely the Government took the control of this

artificial waterway out of private hands and assumed its management

itself. At once it expended about $8,000,000 upon the enlargement and

improvement of the canal. Scarcely was it opened before the ratio at which

the traffic increased showed that it would not long be sufficient.

Enlarged in 1881, it gave a capacity of from fourteen feet, nine inches to

fifteen feet in depth, and with locks only four hundred feet in length.

Even a ditch of this size proved of inestimable value in helping vessels

to avoid the eighteen feet drop between Lake Superior and Lake Huron. By

1886 the tonnage which passed through the canal each year exceeded

9,000,000, and then for the first time this great waterway with a season

limited to eight or nine months, exceeded in the volume of its traffic the

great Suez canal. But shippers at once began to complain of its

dimensions. Vessels were constantly increasing both in length and in

draught, and the development of the great iron fields gave assurance that

a new and prodigious industry would add largely to the size of the fleet,

which up to that time had mainly been employed in carrying grain.

Accordingly the Government rebuilt the locks until they now are one

hundred feet in width, twenty-one feet deep, and twelve hundred feet

long. Immediately vessels were built of a size which tests even this great

capacity, and while the traffic through De Lessep's famous canal at Suez

has for a decade remained almost stationary, being 9,308,152 tons, in

1900, the traffic through the "Soo" has increased in almost arithmetical

proportion every year, attaining in 1901, 24,696,736 tons, or more than

the combined tonnage of the Suez, Kiel, and Manchester canals, though the

"Soo" is closed four months in the year. In 1887 the value of the iron ore

shipments through the canal was $8,744,995. Ten years later it exceeded

$30,000,000. Meanwhile it must be remembered that the Canadian Government

has built on its own side of the river very commodious canals which

themselves carry no small share of the Lake Superior shipments. An

illustration of the fashion in which superior facilities at one end of a

great line of travel compel improvements all along the line is afforded by

the fact that since the canal at the "Soo" has been deepened so as to take

vessels of twenty-one feet draught with practically no limit upon their

length, the cry has gone up among shippers and vessel men for a

twenty-foot channel from Duluth to the sea. At present there are several

points in the lower lakes, notably at what is called the Lime Kiln

Crossing, below Detroit, where twenty-foot craft are put to some hazard,

while beyond Buffalo the shallow Welland Canal, with its short locks, and

the shallow canals of the St. Lawrence River have practically stopped all

effort to establish direct and profitable communication between the great

lakes and the ocean. Such efforts have been made and the expedients

adopted to get around natural obstacles have sometimes been almost

pathetic in the story they tell of the eagerness of the lake marine to

find an outlet to salt-water. Ships are cut in two at Cleveland or at

Erie and sent, thus disjointed, through the canals to be patched together

again at Quebec or Montreal. One body of Chicago capitalists built four

steel steamers of about 2500 tons capacity each, and of dimensions suited

to the locks in the Welland Canal, in the hopes of maintaining a regular

freight line between that city and Liverpool. The vessels were loaded with

full cargo as far as Buffalo, there discharged half their freight, and

went on thus half-laden through the Canadian canals. But the loss in time

and space, and the expense of reshipment of cargo made the experiment an

unprofitable one. Scarcely a year has passed that some such effort has not

been made, and constantly the wonderful development of the ship-building

business on the Great Lakes greatly increases the vigor of the demand for

an outlet. Steel ships can be built on the lakes at a materially smaller

cost than anywhere along the seaboard. In the report of the Commissioner

of Navigation for 1901 it is noted that more than double the tonnage of

steel construction on the Atlantic coast was reported from the lakes. If

lake builders could send their vessels easily and safely to the ocean, we

should not need subsidies and special legislation to reestablish the

American flag abroad. By the report already quoted, it is shown that

thirty-nine steel steamers were built in lake yards of a tonnage ranging

from 1089 tons to 5125. Wooden ship-building is practically dead on the

lakes. In June of that year twenty-six more steel steamers, with an

aggregate tonnage of 81,000 were on the stocks in the lake yards. Two of

these are being built for ocean service, but both will have to be cut in

two before they can get through the Canadian canals. It is not surprising

that there appears among the people living in the commonwealths which

border on the Great Lakes a certain doubt as to whether the expenditure by

the United States Government of $200,000,000 for a canal at the Isthmus

will afford so great a measure of encouragement to American shipping and

be of as immediate advantage to the American exporter, as a twenty-foot

channel from Duluth to tide-water.

Though the old salt may sneer at the freshwater sailor who scarcely need

know how to box the compass, to whom the art of navigation is in the main

the simple practise of steering from port to port guided by headlands and

lights, who is seldom long out of sight of land, and never far from aid,

yet the perils of the lakes are quite as real as those which confront the

ocean seaman, and the skill and courage necessary for withstanding them

quite as great as his. The sailor's greatest safeguard in time of tempest

is plenty of searoom. This the lake navigator never has. For him there is

always the dreaded lee shore only a few miles away. Anchorage on the sandy

bottom of the lakes is treacherous, and harbors are but few and most

difficult of access. Where the ocean sailor finds a great bay, perhaps

miles in extent, entered by a gateway thousands of yards across, offering

a harbor of refuge in time of storm, the lake navigator has to run into

the narrow mouth of a river, or round under the lee of a government

breakwater hidden from sight under the crested waves and offering but a

precarious shelter at best. Chicago, Cleveland, Milwaukee--most of the

lake ports have witnessed such scenes of shipwreck and death right at the

doorway of the harbor, as no ocean port could tell. At Chicago great

schooners have been cast far up upon the boulevard that skirts a waterside

park, or thrown bodily athwart the railroad tracks that on the south side

of the city border the lake. The writer has seen from a city street,

crowded with shoppers on a bright but windy day, vessels break to pieces

on the breakwater, half a mile away but in plain sight, and men go down

to their death in the raging seas. On all the lakes, but particularly on

the smaller ones, an ugly sea is tossed up by the wind in a time so short

as to seem miraculous to the practised navigator of the ocean. The shallow

water curls into breakers under the force of even a moderate wind, and the

vessels are put to such a strain, in their struggles, as perhaps only the

craft built especially for the English channel have to undergo. Some of

the most fatal disasters the lakes have known resulted from iron vessels,

thus racked and tossed, sawing off, as the phrase goes, the rivets that

bound their plates together, and foundering. Fire, too, has numbered its

scores of victims on lake steamers, though this danger, like indeed most

others, is greatly decreased by the increased use of steel as a structural

material and the great improvement in the model of the lake craft. Even

ten years ago the lake boats were ridiculous in their clumsiness, their

sluggishness, and their lack of any of the charm and comfort that attend

ocean-going vessels, but progress toward higher types has been rapid, and

there are ships on the lakes to-day that equal any of their size afloat.

For forty years it has been possible to say annually, "This is the

greatest year in the history of the lake marine." For essentially it is a

new and a growing factor in the industrial development of the United

States. So far, from having been killed by the prodigious development of

our railroad system, it has kept pace with that system, and the years that

have seen the greatest number of miles of railroad built, have witnessed

the launching of the biggest lake vessels. There is every reason to

believe that this growth will for a long time be persistent, that the

climax has not yet been reached. For it is incredible that the Government

will permit the barrier at Niagara to the commerce of these great inland

seas to remain long unbroken. Either by the Mohawk valley route, now

followed by the Erie canal, or by the route down the St. Lawrence, with a

deepening and widening of the present Canadian canals, and a new canal

down from the St. Lawrence to Lake Champlain, a waterway will yet be

provided. The richest coast in the world is that bordering on the lakes.

The cheapest ships in the world can there be built. Already the Government

has spent its tens and scores of millions in providing waterways from the

extreme northwest end to the southeastern extremity of this water system,

and it is unbelievable that it shall long remain violently stopped there.

New devices for digging canals; such as those employed in the Chicago

drainage channel, and the new pneumatic lock, the power and capacity of

which seem to be practically unlimited, have vastly decreased the cost of

canal building, and multiplied amazingly the value of artificial

waterways. As it is admitted that the greatness and the wealth of New York

State are much to be credited to the Erie canal, so the prosperity and

populousness of the whole lake region will be enhanced when lake sailors

and the lake ship-builders are given a free waterway to the ocean.

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