MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.--I COMPLETE THE MAPS.--
EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS--AFTER
SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.--CORPORAL GRAHAM SENT WITH
DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.--THE PARTY CROSSES THE
BALONNE--BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--REACHES THE MOONI PONDS--OR RIVER.--
TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.--A WHITE WOMAN MET WITH.--CATTLE
STATIONS.--HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE PARTY.--FLOODS ALMOST
SURROUND THE CAMP.--THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF SAND.--AFTER
SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE BARWAN.--A
FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.--PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.--MUSQUITOES NUMEROUS AFTER
THE RAIN.--STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.--THE MAAL ALSO FLOODED.--CROSS IT WITH
THE BOATS.--THE MEEI CROSSED.--CROSS OTHER BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.--
RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.--ENTER ON EXTENSIVE PLAINS.--SNODGRASS LAGOON.--
A YOUNG SQUATTER.--LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE OF MR. KENNEDY.--RIDE
HOMEWARDS.
5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.--These days I devoted to the protracting of angles
taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to the
Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy, followed by
Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country in the direction
of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of 1831; that was on
the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29° 2' S., and bearing about 20° E. of
S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni" ponds, were said
to water the intervening country, and I wished to ascertain whether they
were favourable for the connection of our recently explored route, with
the termination of that marked out by me in 1831, when my journey,
undertaken expressly with the same objects in view, was accidentally
frustrated.
Corporal Graham was to go forward to the postoffice at Tamworth with the
despatches, when Mr. Kennedy, having ascertained the situation of the
Mooni ponds, should return. In the meanwhile, I continued to finish maps
and drawings, although suffering much inconvenience from excessive heat,
under a tent infested with numerous flies. The banks of the river were
gay with the purple flowers of SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; FUSANUS
ACUMINATUS, produced its crimson-coloured fruit, which Yuranigh brought
us from the bush; the spotted bark tree, ELOEODENDRON MACULOSUM, was also
in these scrubs. A yellow-flowered herbaceous plant, has been determined
by Professor De Vriese to be identical with the Swan River GOODENIA
PULCHELLA. A salt plant, greedily eaten by the cattle, proved to be a
variety of the ATRIPLEX NUMMULARIS, observed in February on the
Macquarie. A species of GREWIA, in fruit, appeared to be the same as the
G. RICHARDIANA of Walpers. The TRICHINIUM FUSIFORME R. Br., was covered
with its globular, shaggy flower-heads, in the sandy open parts of the
forest. A very remarkable shrub, five or six feet high, with the foliage
of a Phyllirea, and spreading branches, was loaded with short racemes of
white flowers. It proved to be a plant of the natural order of Bixads,
and allied to MELICYTUS, but with hermaphrodite flowers.[*] A submerged
plant, in the water, was found to be a new species of MYRIOPHYLLUM, with
tuberculate fruit.[**] CASSIA CORONILLOIDES, a low shrub, was in
flower.[***] A shrubby MYOPORUM put forth sweet and edible fruit. A new
ELOEODENDRON, with small panicles of white flowers, formed a forest tree
twenty feet high, remarkable for its spotted bark.[****] A fir-leaved
CASSIA, with thin, sickle-leaved pods, formed a bush, from four to five
feet high.[*****] A new blue-flowered MORGANIA, decorated the river-
bank[******]; lastly, a new species of indigo[*******], completed the
list of plants we gathered at this season at the camp over St. George's
Bridge.
[* M. ? OLEASTER (Lindl. MS.); glaberrimus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
supra griseis subtus virentibus venosis racemis strictis multo
longioribus, floribus hermaphroditis.--OBS. SEP. 5. PET. 5 hypog.
imbricata. ST. 5 in margine disci magni inserta. OVAR. ovatum 1-loc.
plac. 3-par. STYLUS simplex. STIGMA parvum 3-dent. FRUCTUS ignotus,
verisim. carnosus.]
[** M. VERRUCOSUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis submersis capillaceo-multifidis
emersis ternatim verticillatis ovatis pinnatifidis, floribus octandris,
fructibus tuberculatis.]
[*** C. CORONILLOIDES (A. Cunn. MS.); ramis subangulatis petiolisque
minute puberulis, foliolis 8-10-jugis lineari-oblongis obtusiusculis
glabris, glandula cylindrica inter par infimum, racemis axillaribus 2-3-
floris folio multo brevioribus.--Very near C. AUSTRALIS, but the leaflets
are fewer and smaller, and the subulate glands of that species are
wanting.--G. B. M. DULCE (Benth. MS.); ramulis laevibus, foliis anguste
lanceolatis planis acutis uninervibus basi angustatis, laciniis calycinis
linearilanceolatis acutis brevibus, corollae limbo imberbi.--Intermediate
between M. TENUIFOLIUM Br. and M. DESERTI Cunn.]
[**** E. MACULOSUM (Lindl. MS.); inerme, foliis linearibus obovatis
integerrimis obtusis, paniculis terminalibus ultra folia evectis.]
[***** C. CIRCINNATA (Benth. MS.); glabriuscula, petiolis phyllodineis
lineari-subteretibus, foliolis nullis, racemis phyllodio plerumque
brevioribus 1-2-floris, legumine plano glabro cincinnato v. spiraliter
contorto.--Phyllodia one to one and a half inch long, resembling the
leaflets of C. HETEROLOBA. Pod like that of several PITHECOLOBIA, but not
yet ripe.]
[****** M. FLORIBUNDA (Benth. MS.); dense glandulosa, caeterum glabra,
ramis strictis dense foliosis foliis linearibus rarissime dentatis,
pedicellis plerisque geminis folio florali multo brevioribus.--This is a
very distinct species which was also gathered by Sir T. Mitchell in 1836,
but my specimen was not complete enough to describe it accurately, the
branches are thickly covered with leaves and flowers. The lower leaves
are one to two inches long, the flowers blue, like those of M. GLABRA.
G.B.]
[******* I. BREVIDENS (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, gracilis, pilis parvis
canescens, foliolis 6-10-jugis cum impari oppositis obovatis subplanis
mucronatis v. emarginatis utrinque strigosis, racemis multifloris laxis
folia vix superantibus, bracteis minutis, calycis villosuli dentibus
brevissimis obtusis, corolla pubescente, legumine strigilloso incurvo.--
It has much the aspect of I. MICRANTHA (Bunge), but the flowers are not
quite so small, and the teeth of the calyx are very different.]
15TH NOVEMBER.--Mr. Kennedy having been absent much longer than was
expected, at length appeared on the opposite bank of the river with
Douglas, both being on foot, and Douglas leading only one (strange)
horse. The information Mr. Kennedy brought me was favourable to the
project of uniting this route with that to the Barwan, and the (now)
settled district of the Nammoy. He had found that the Mooni ran nearly
north and south, and that its banks were occupied with cattle-stations to
within a day's ride of our camp. This ride of discovery had, however,
cost the lives of two of our horses, the bearing already mentioned as the
direction given for Mr. Kennedy's guidance having been TRUE and not
magnetic. Pursuing that bearing BY COMPASS, Mr. Kennedy had ridden almost
parallel to the Mooni, sixty-three miles, without hitting them, or
finding water. The heat was intense, one of the horses died, and the men
were very ill; when they at length reached these ponds. In returning, he
had travelled by the stations, and borrowed the horse brought back, from
the station nearest to us, occupied by Messrs. Hook. From these gentlemen
Mr. Kennedy had ascertained that Sir Charles Fitzroy was the new
Governor.
17TH NOVEMBER.--The whole party crossed the Balonne by St. George's
Bridge, and I arrived, the same afternoon, with a small advanced party on
the Mooni, which we made in latitude 28° 17' 51" S. The channel was full
of water, and thus we completed the last link wanted to form a chain of
communication DIRECT FROM SYDNEY, to the furthest limits we had explored.
The ground was imprinted with the hoofs of cattle, and we already felt as
if at home. The day was one of extreme heat without any wind; the
thermometer stood at 104° in the shade. Yet the horses drew the carts
easily twenty-four miles and a quarter. We had passed over a country
covered with excellent grass, consisting chiefly of plains and open
forest, with scrubs of ACACIA PENDULA, and a soil of clay. In the scrubs
we found a new species of CANTHIUM, a shrub ten or twelve feet high; and
in the open forest ACACIA NERIIFOLIA was observed in fruit; HIBISCUS
STURTII Hook.; an Evolvulus related to SERICEUS; a new yellow
CROTALARIA[*] ; and a noble new species of STENOCHILUS, with willowy
leaves and large trumpet flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, rise, 62°;
at noon, 103°; at 4 P.M., 104°; at 9, 81°;--with wet bulb, 67°. Height
above the sea, 622 feet. (Camp 84.)
[* C. DISSITIFLORA (Benth. MS.); herbacea, laxe ramosa, stipulis
setaceis, foliolis elliptico-oblongis rarius ovalibus obtusis supra
glabris subtus ramulisque pube tenui subcanescentibus, racemis erectis
oppositifoliis elongatis, floribus (ultra 20) distantibus, carinae rostro
brevi recto, ovulis numerosis, legumine breviter stipitato pubescente.--
Very near to C. SENEGALENSIS among the LONGIROSTRES, but the habit is
more rigid, the leaflets rather larger, the beak of the keel shorter, and
the pod (which is only very young in the specimen) is borne on a short
stalk.]
[** S. (PLATYCHILUS) BIGNONIAEFLORUS (Benth. MS.); glaber viscosus-foliis
longe lanceolatis linearibusve apice subuncinato, calycis foliolis latis
acutis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis obtusissimis infima
dilatata subtriloba vix caeteris magis soluta, staminibus vix exsertis.--
Leaves three to six inches long, two to six lines broad, thick and
clammy. Flowers above an inch long, remarkable for the broad divisions of
the corolla, and the general form much that of a BIGNONIA. This
difference in the form of the corolla, would perhaps justify the placing
it into a distinct genus instead of a mere section, especially as that
peculiarity which gave the name of STENOCHILUS does not exist, were it
not that the forms of the corolla are so different in different other
species, that they will not furnish generic characters where the habit is
similar.--G. B.]
18TH NOVEMBER.--The teams came in very early, not having been above one
mile behind. I remained encamped there, in the expectation of some
decided change of weather. The night had been oppressively hot. The
season during which we had been beyond the Balonne, viz., that between
the 23rd April and 5th November, was the most proper for visiting the
tropical regions of Australia.
Here we found TRICORYNE ELATIOR, a delicate yellow-flowered plant; a
species of the genus Fugosia near F. DIGITATA, a plant of Senegambia, but
less glabrous, and with the leaflets of the involucre much larger.
MORGANIA GLABRA, a little erect herbaceous plant, having the appearance
of being parasitical on roots; ACACIA VARIANS, in the open forest, in
rich soil. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, formerly seen on the Narran. In the thick
forest, a shrub six feet high with small white flowers, CATHA
CUNNINGHAMII[*] (Hook. MS.), and a new species of VIGNA very near V.
LANCEOLATA, though very different in habit.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P.M., 103°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
[* C. CUNNINGHAMII (Hook. MS.); inermis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
rigidis mucronato-acutis integerrimis subfalcatis superne latioribus basi
in petiolum perbrevem attenuatis, floribus axillaribus fasciculatis,
pedunculis simplicibus vel racemosis bracteolatis.]
[* V. SUBERECTA (Benth. MS.); leviter pubescens, suberecta, ramosissima,
foliolis lato-lanceolatis basi integris vel hastato-trilobatis,
pedunculis folio subbrevioribus apice paucifloris, calycis pubescentis
campanulati dentibus tubo subaequilongis, carina rostrata acuta, legumine
puberulo.]
19TH NOVEMBER.--The party moved off at an early hour. The tracks of
cattle and horses became more and more numerous as we proceeded, and the
channel of the little river was full of water, on which a large species
of duck was very plentiful. At length we came upon the track of wheels,
and followed them towards the station; which was not yet visible when our
young native, Dicky, fell a shouting and laughing, drawing my attention
to what certainly was a "RARA AVIS" to him. This was a white woman going
with pails to milk the cows, and the first white female he could ever
have seen. The jeering laugh of the young savage was amusing, as he
pointed to that swaddled, straw-bonneted object, as something curious in
natural history, to which my attention, as he thought, would be rivetted:
but the sight was, nevertheless, a welcome one to all the party. Soon two
comfortable stations, one on each side of the river, appeared before us;
and the neatly dressed mother of two chubby white children stood at the
door of one of them. I had a memorandum from Mr. Kennedy to call at the
other, to thank the owner for lending him a horse; and there I first
entered again under a roof, and a most agreeable cover it did seem to me
after living nearly a year under canvass, in houseless wilds. These were
cattle stations, and both appeared to be well-laid out for the purpose,
and upon a scale more substantial and worthy of it, than I had hitherto
seen in squatting districts. The placing of two such stations thus near
each other, is a good arrangement, not only affording better security
against the depredations of natives, but also as banishing that aspect of
solitude and loneliness such places in general present; and in the outset
of such a life, implanting, in the still uncultivated soil, the germs of
social union, on the solid basis of mutual protection.
I continued to travel some miles beyond these stations, for the sake of
obtaining better grass for our cattle; and thus lengthened the journey to
near twenty miles, in very warm weather, the thermometer being 104° in
the shade. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P.M., 104°;
at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 63°. (Camp 85.) Latitude, 28° 30' 51" S.
20TH NOVEMBER.--Travelling south by compass, we found a tolerably open
forest, and the Mooni on our left, until we fell in with Mr. Kennedy's
track on riding back. Following this (as he had been guided back by an
experienced stockman), we at length crossed the Mooni, and fell into a
cart-track leading southward, and at a few miles beyond where we fell
into that track, we encamped on the left bank of the Mooni; a tree at
this camp being marked 86. Again we saw, in the woods about this camp,
the HYLOCOCCUS SERICEUS R. Br., a remarkable tree, with oblong leaves,
and fruit resembling a small orange. It is a curious genus, and belongs
to the poisonous order of Spurgeworts. We found here also, the
HELICHRYSUM SEMIPAPPOSUM D. C.; ACACIA SPECTABILIS; a new species of
BEYERIA, near B. VISCOSA, Mig.; the variety of CASSIA SOPHERA (Linn.)
cultivated in some botanical gardens, under the name of C. SOPHERELLA; a
beautiful tree with pinnate leaves and spreading panicles of large white
flowers, called THOUINIA AUSTRALIS; the EUCALYPTUS BICOLOR A. Cunn. MS.,
a species closely allied to E. HOEMATOMMA Sm., but the marginal nerve is
not so close to the edge of the leaf (this is the "bastard box" of the
carpenters); a fine new large-flowered SIDA[*]; and it appears that the
"Yarra" tree of the natives here, is a new Eucalyptus, which Sir William
Hooker calls E. ACUMINATA.[**]
[* S. (ABUTILON) TUBULOSA (All. Cunn. MS.); tota velutino-pubescens,
foliis cordato-ovatis (sinu profundo angusto) sublonge acuminatis
dentatoserratis, stipulis subulatis flaccidis, pedunculis axillaribus
solitariis unifloris folio brevioribus, calyce elongato tubuloso 5-fido
laciniis acuminatis, petalis (flavis) vix duplo brevioribus.--W. J. H.]
[** E. ACUMINATA (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis petiolatis lanceolatis
longe acuminatis subaristatis penninerviis glaucis reticulatis nervis
lateralibus a margine remotiusculis, floribus umbellatis (4-6-floris),
umbellis pedunculatis, calycis tubo hemisphaerico in pedicellum gracilem
attenuato, calyptra conico-acuminato calycis tubum superante.]
Just as we sat down here, rain came on; the wind changed to S. W. and the
sky looked more portentous of rainy weather than we had ever seen it on
this journey. Now this was the first country in which we had any reason
to dread wet weather, since we crossed the Culgoa about the beginning of
April. Here rain would render the ground impassable, and inundate the
country. The mercury in the barometer was falling, and so was the rain.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 62°; at 4 P.M., 57°; at 9, 53°;--
with wet bulb, 53°.
21ST NOVEMBER.--The wind had shifted from E. to S. W., and the rain had
set in,--to proceed was quite impossible. The coolness of a cloudy day
rendered the tent much more agreeable and convenient for finishing maps
in, than one under the extremely hot sunshine which mine had been
recently exposed to so long at St. George's Bridge. I had now, therefore,
a good opportunity of completing the maps. The great heat which had
prevailed during so many successive days there, portended some such
change as this; and we were thus likely to be caught in that very region
so subject to inundation, which I was formerly so careful to avoid, that
I endeavoured to travel so as to be within reach of a hilly country. For
that reason chiefly I had proceeded into the interior, by the circuitous
route of Fort Bourke.
21ST NOVEMBER TO 7TH DECEMBER.--The sky resembled that in Poussin's
picture of the Deluge; and to one who had contended a whole year with
scarcity of water, in regions where this coming supply had so long been
due, the reflection would often occur, that this rain, if it had fallen a
year sooner, might have expedited that journey very much indeed; whereas
it was now very likely to retard the return of the party. This was the
only spot where such a rain could have seriously impeded our progress;
the waters of the great rivers were sure to come down, and we had still
to traverse extensive low tracts, where, in 1831, I had seen the marks of
floods on trees, which had left an impression still remaining on my mind,
that I thought it very desirable then, to get my party safe out of these
flats as soon as possible.
On the 28th November, or eight days after the rains set in, the Mooni
waters came down, at first slowly, but gradually filling up the channel,
until they rose to such a height, as to oblige me to move three of the
drays. During the night, the rising inundation began to spread over the
lower parts of the surface back from the river; while the current came
down with such rapidity, and, judging from marks of former inundations on
the trunks of box-trees ("GOBORRA"), it appeared probable the water might
reach our camp. I therefore determined to move it by daylight to a sand-
hill, about a quarter of a mile back from the river. This was effected in
good time, and only in time. Between the camp beside the Mooni, and that
we afterwards established on the sand-hill, there was a hollow by which
the rising floods would pass to an extensive tract of low ground almost
surrounding our camp on the sand-hill, and which would, probably, render
our passage out of that position difficult, even after the waters had
subsided. I therefore employed the men in throwing up a dam across this
hollow, between our hill-camp and the river, so as to prevent the
inundation from passing that way. We had no better material than sand to
oppose to this water; yet, by throwing up enough, we succeeded in
arresting the waters there, although they rose to the height of two feet
four inches on the upper side of our dam, and gave, to the country above
it, the appearance of a vast lake, covering our old encampment; so that
the figures 86 cut on a tree, were the only traces of it that remained
above water. Our camp on the sand-hill was elevated above the sea 641
feet, or about 80 feet higher than the river. The waters continued to
rise until the 2d of December, when they became stationary; and next day
they began slowly to subside. By the evening of the 5th, they had receded
from the dam; and the sky, which had been lowering until the 1st, began
to present clouds of less ominous form. Still the return of clear weather
was slow, and accompanied by thunder-showers. Plants put forth their
blossoms as soon as the sun re-appeared; amongst others, the DIDISCUS
PILOSUS Benth.; a pretty little umbelliferous plant. BOERHAAVIA was again
seen here; CARISSA OVATA, a shrub three feet high, with spiny branches,
and very sweet white flowers; the NEPTUNIA GRACILIS also, with the
appearance of a sensitive plant, was seen in the open flats. It was only
on the 7th that a crust had been formed on the earth, sufficiently firm
for the cattle to travel upon; and we embraced the earliest opportunity
of quitting that camp, where the superabundance of water had detained us
seventeen days. Musquitoes now tormented us exceedingly, and had obliged
us to tether the horses at night, to prevent them from straying. We this
day passed over the soil without finding the wheels to sink much, until
we arrived at Johnston's station, five miles from our camp, and where I
had been told the ground was firm. There, on the contrary, we encountered
the only two swamps at all difficult. Even the drays got through them,
however, and I gladly quitted the banks of the Mooni, taking a straight
direction towards the Barwan, and encamped ten miles from the former.
That central ground between the Mooni and the Barwan, had brigalow
growing upon it, was firm, and in some hollows we found water. A heavy
thunder-shower fell at sunset, but we were on such firm soil, that I was
under no apprehension that it would have the effect of retarding our
journey.
8TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 69°. Height above the sea, 782
feet. Having determined our position on the map, I now chose such a
direction for our homeward route, as would form the most eligible general
line of communication between Sydney and the Maranòa. It seemed desirable
that this should cross the Barwan (the Karaula of my journey of 1831),
some miles above the point where I had formerly reached that river; and
thus avoid the soft low ground upon the Nammoy, falling into my old track
about Snodgrass lagoon, or when in sight of Mount Riddell. With this
view, our latitude being 28° 57' 20" S., longitude 149° 11' E., I chose
the bearing of S.S.E. (or rather 23½° E. of S.), for my homeward
guidance; and this morning I travelled, over a good firm surface, for
sixteen miles in that direction, when we arrived at the bank of the
Barwan and there encamped. We had passed through some open scrub, chiefly
of the rosewood kind, and crossed several small grassy plains; saw one or
two patches of brigalow, but very little callitris. An improvement was
visible in the quality of the grass, when we came within the distance of
about two miles from the river; and open forests or plains of richer
soil, its usual concomitants, plainly enough indicated the presence of
the Barwan (or "Darling"). In the country we traversed, we saw no cart
tracks; but the deep impressions of a few stray cattle, apparently
pursued by natives, were visible throughout the scrubs. There was still a
considerable flood in the river, although the water had been recently
much higher, as was obvious from the state of the banks. Latitude, 28°
37' 20" S. Height above the sea, 590 feet.
9TH DECEMBER.--All hands were busy this morning in making preparations
for crossing the Barwan. The boats were soon put together, and on
reconnoitring the river in one of them, I soon found a favourable place
for swimming the cattle and horses at, and which was effected without
accident. The unloaded drays were next drawn through the river at the
same place; which was about three hundred yards lower down the river than
that at which we had encamped, and which was marked by the number 87, cut
on a tree. My former camp on this river in 1831, for want of such a mark,
could not be recognised. According to my surveys, it should have been
found seventeen miles lower down the river. All our stores and equipment
were carried across in the boats. These looked well in the water; their
trim appearance and utility, then renewed my regret that I had not
reached the navigable portion of the Victoria, and that its channel had
been so empty. Perhaps more efficient portable boats never were
constructed, or carried so far inland undamaged. They were creditable to
the maker, Mr. Struth of Sydney. By their means, the whole party was
comfortably encamped this afternoon, on the left bank of the Barwan, just
before a heavy thunder-shower came down. The river had fallen several
feet during the day. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 82°.
10TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M. thermometer 68°. The mosquitoes were most
tormenting; as was well expressed by one of the men outside my tent, who
remarked to his companion, "That the more you punishes 'em, the more they
brings you to the scratch:" a tolerable pun for one of "the fancy," of
which class we had rather too many in the party. The horses, although
tethered and close spancelled, could not be secured, even thus. Some had
broken away and strayed during the night. It was ascertained by Yuranigh,
that four other strange horses were with ours, having come amongst them
and led them astray. These had broken loose from a neigh- bouring
station, whence a native came to the men I had left to await the horses
at the Barwan, and took back the strange horses. I had gone forward with
the party, still pursuing the same bearing, and came thus upon the
"Maäl," a channel not usually deep, but, at the time, so full of water,
with a very slight current in it, that here again we were obliged to
employ the boats. This channel was distant 5½ miles from where we had
crossed the Barwan. The bullocks were made to swim across in the yokes,
drawing the empty drays through, which they accomplished very well; "RARÎ
NANTES IN GURGITE VASTO." The loads were carried in the boats, and the
horses taken across, as before. The camp was established at an early hour
on the left bank of the "Maal," which camp I caused to be marked 88, in
figures cut on an iron bark tree. Latitude, 29° 1' 20" S. This seemed to
be the same channel crossed by me on 5th February, 1832, at a similar
distance from the main river.
11TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 70°. We continued to travel
homewards on the same bearing; thus tracing with our wheels, a direct
line of road from Sydney to the northern interior and coast. The plains
were gay with the blue flowers of a new CYCLOGYNE[*]; a new CANTHIUM, was
in fruit[**]; and we found also a species of Malva, which Sir William
Hooker has determined to be MALVA OVATA (Cav.), or scarcely differing
from that species, except in the rather soft and short hairs to the calyx
(not long and rigid): the two ends of the curved carpels are equal or
blunt; but in M. OVATA the upper one is longer and attenuated into a
short beak. The same plant was found by Frazer along the Brisbane. The
THYSANOTUS ELATIOR was again found here; and a shrubby CRUCIFEROUS plant,
quite woody at the base, with very narrow linear setaceous pinnatifid
leaves,[***] and linear curved torulose silicules. A new HAKEA with stout
needle like leaves, was also found this day in the scrub. We met with no
impediment for eighteen miles, when I encamped, although without reaching
water enough for our cattle. I knew we could not expect to meet with any
watercourse between the Barwan and the Gwydir; which latter river I
wished to cross as soon as possible, in hopes then to meet with roads and
inhabitants. Even cattle-tracks had again become rare in this
intermediate ground, although the grass was in its best state, and most
exuberant abundance. We crossed much open plain, and passed through
several shady forests of casuarina. A curious provision of nature for the
distribution of the seeds of a parasitical plant was observed here, each
seed being enclosed within a sort of pulp, like bird-lime, insoluble in
water; the whole resembling a very thin-skinned berry. On this being
broken, probably by birds, the bird-lime is apt to attach the seed to
trees or branches, and so the parasitical growth commences. On the
plains, the blue flowers of a large variety of MORGANIA GLABRA caught the
eye: the rare and little known HETERODENDRON OLOEFOLIUM of Desfontaines,
a genus referred to Soapworts by Mr. Planchon. We found also this day, a
new POLYMERIA with erect stems, silky leaves, and pink flowers.[****]
Height above the sea, 554 feet.
[* C. SWAINSONIOIDES (Benth. MS.); foliolis 8-11 anguste oblongis,
racemis laxis dissitifloris, carina spiraliter contorta.--Habit of a
SWAINSONIA or LESSERTIA. Flowers blue, as in the original Swan river
species (C. CANESCENS). That has not a spirally-twisted keel, but the
structure is indicated both by the circinnate apex of the style, and by a
slight curl at the summit of the keel.]
[** C. OLEIFOLIUM (Hook. MS.); foliis obovato-oblongis obtusis glaucis
basi in petiolum gracilem attenuatis, stipulis parvis acutis, fructibus
didymis.]
[*** H. LONGICUSPIS (Hook. MS.); rigida glaberrima, ramis junioribus
subpubescentibus, foliis bi-triuncialibus tereti-filiformibus rigidis
strictis longe mucronatis, perianthiis glabris, capsulis suboblique
ovatis lignosis glabris brevi-acuminatis.]
[**** P. LONGIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); erecta, foliis sericeo-nitentibus
linearilanceolatis auriculatis, pedunculis unifloris foliis multo
brevioribus.]
12TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 67°. Passing over a similar sort
of country for some miles (and through a scrub, on first leaving the
camp), we at length came upon a more open country, where the ground
seemed to fall southward. Cattle-tracks were again numerous, and cow-dung
abundant, an article in much request with us just then, its smoke being a
valuable specific for keeping off the mosquitoes, when a little of it was
burnt before a tent. We next came upon more spacious plains than any we
had seen southward of the Balonne; and I recognised, with great pleasure
and satisfaction, the blue peak of Mount Riddell, distant 61 miles. This
seemed to peep through the obscurity of fifteen laborious years, that had
intervened since I had given a name to that summit. It now proved the
accuracy of my recent survey, appearing exactly in the direction, where,
according to my maps, I pointed my glass to look for it. Like the face of
an old friend, which, as the Persian proverb says, "brighteneth the
eyes," so this required clear eyes to be seen at all; even Yuranigh,
could not at first be persuaded that it was not a cloud. This fine peak
must always be a good landmark on these vast plains, and may yet brighten
the eye of the traveller from India, when emerging from the level regions
upon the Barwan. We next perceived at a distance, a cloud of dust raised
by a numerous herd of cattle, and came upon a water-course, or branch of
the Gwydir, called, I believe, the "Meei." As I wanted to cross the
Gwydir, I crossed this and continued; met with another deep ditch or
channel, four miles beyond the Meei; and, at three miles beyond that,
another: none of these resembling the Gwydir I had formerly seen. I had
ridden twenty-five miles, and hastened back to meet the carts, and
encamped them just beyond the first-mentioned of these two water-courses.
The heavy drays were, of course, far behind. Latitude, 29° 34' 41" S.
Height above the sea, 553 feet.
13TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 10 A.M., 70°. The drays joined us early,
having performed an immense distance yesterday. This being Sunday, rest
for the remainder of the day was both proper and necessary. I found we
were within a less distance of Snodgrass Lagoon, than we were from the
camp we had left the previous day. I expected to fall in with some road,
when we reached the country to which I had formerly led the way. At
sunset the sky seemed charged with rain, and the barometer had fallen 2½
millimetres; much thunder, and but a slight shower followed, after which
the sky cleared up. Heavy rain there, must have caused much difficulty
and delay to the party, as we were upon low levels subject to inundation.
Height above the sea, 499 feet. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 88°.
14TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 76°. During the night, and at
day-break, heavy rain pattered on my tent, but a streak of the blue sky
appeared in the N.W., which increased; and before 7 A.M. the sun shone on
the ground, and dried it so that we could proceed. We crossed a channel
of the river, at three miles, which is called the "Moomings;" and still I
doubted whether we had not yet to cross the main channel of the Gwydir,
having seen no current in any of those channels I had crossed. I had
however already crossed the latitude of the river I had formerly seen;
and, coming soon to rising ground, and seeing before me the wide-spread
plains of my former journey, I was convinced that the late rains had not
extended to the Gwydir, and that this river had been crossed by us in
these several channels. At length, I arrived at the lagoon I had named,
in former times, after Colonel Snodgrass; thus terminating this journey,
having travelled in a direct line the last seventy-three miles of it, to
meet at this point the line from Sydney, traced by me thus far in the
year 1831. Height above the level of the sea, 545 feet. Thermometer, at 7
P.M., 87°. The temporary occupation of the country by squatters, imprints
but few traces of colonization. Cattle-tracks were visible, certainly,
but nothing else. No track remained along the line which I had so many
years before laboured to mark out. Having ordered some of the men to look
out for a stockman, one was at length caught, and persuaded to come to my
tent, but not without some apprehension that the people he had come
amongst so suddenly were robbers. He was a youth, evidently of the Anglo-
Saxon race, in a state of transition to the condition of an Australian
stockman. His fair locks strayed wildly from under a light straw hat
about the ears of an honest English face, and the large stock whip in his
hand explained what he was about,--"in search of some stray cattle." He
had evidently never heard of exploring expeditions, past or present; nor
of such a name as "Snodgrass Lagoon." Mount Riddell was called "Cow
hill," according to him. Knew there was a road to Maitland, but of Sydney
he seemed to require some minutes to recal the recollection. He had come
from the station of Mr.----, where he was employed as stockman. Came out
from England about six years ago with a brother. When asked if his
brother was with him, he said "No." To my next question, as to the rest
of his relatives, a tear was the only reply, and I pushed my inquiries no
further.
16TH DECEMBER.--I left the camp, accompanied by Mr. Kennedy, and, in
looking for my old route, we soon arrived at cattle stations. The lagoon
was full, and the first station we saw was on the opposite bank; but
having crossed some miles higher, we arrived at one, where the master and
some men were busy in the stockyard, and there we were hospitably
received. It was then about 2 P.M., and tea mixed with milk was set
before us, with a quart pot full of fine salt, and some hard-boiled eggs.
Having put into my tea a table-spoonful of the salt, mistaking it for
sugar, and there being no sugar, I had two strong reasons for not taking
much tea. Fortunately for me, however, I did eat one of the hard-boiled
eggs, for from that hour I was doomed to fast two days. There I bade Mr.
Kennedy farewell, leaving him in charge of the party, and proceeded along
a cart-track homewards, followed by John Douglas, and a led horse. Before
we could arrive at the station where I intended to halt, night overtook
us on a plain, with very heavy rain, and total darkness. The cart-track
was no longer visible, and, after groping on some way without it, we were
obliged to alight and sit in the mud, without the shelter of even a tree,
until day-break. Daylight exhibited the station not above two miles off,
but that did not avail us much; for, on awaking the inmates, and asking
them for some breakfast, the hut-keeper shook his head, and said he had
no provisions to spare. Once more I struck away from these "abodes of
civilized men," to look for my old track, which had been traced along the
base of the Nundawàr Range, where the bold outlines of Mounts Lindesay
and Forbes hung dimly, like shadows of the past, amongst clouds lighted
by beams from the rising sun. After having been long in unknown regions,
time and distance seem of little consequence when we return to those
previously known; and thus the whole day soon passed in looking for my
former track. But I sought it in vain; and was glad at night to turn
towards the banks of the Nammoy, in search of a cattle-station. Since I
had first explored that country to which my wheel-tracks marked and led
the way, station after station had been taken up by squatters, not by
following any line of route, but rather according to the course of the
river, for the sake of water; and in such cases, the beaten track from
station to station, no matter how crooked, becomes the road. Thus it is,
in the fortuitous occupation of Australia, that order and arrangement may
precede, and be followed only by "CHAOS come again." I arrived about
sunset, at Mr. Cyrus Doyle's station near the Nammoy, where I was
hospitably entertained by a man in charge of it, who rode eight miles in
twenty minutes only, to borrow some tea and sugar for me, and who lived
on very friendly terms with some old natives who remembered me, and my
first advance into that country.
18TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M., Thermometer 75°. Height above the sea 750
feet. Guided by one of these natives, I reached the "great road," saw
many wool drays upon it, before I arrived at Maule's creek; and I
endeavoured, for a considerable time, to pass two gentlemen in a gig, and
wearing veils, who were driving a lot of mares before them, and who
seemed to derive amusement from making their mares keep pace with my
entire horse.
The road this day traversed the luxuriant flats of the Nammoy, one of the
richest districts in the colony, as the fat cattle on the banks of the
river sufficiently attested. The mountains behind, afforded equally
eligible runs for sheep. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery,
amid abundance of water, umbrageous trees, cattle, verdure, and distant
mountains. I was most comfortably lodged that night at Mr. Wentworth's
station on the Nammoy, elevated above the sea 1055 feet, and next day I
reached the dwelling of a resident squatter, and saw a lady in a
comfortable house near the very spot, where, fifteen years before, I had
taken a lonely walk by the then unknown Nammoy, the first white man
permitted there to discover a "flowery desert."[*] I was most kindly
welcomed by this family; but I asked in vain, even there, to be favoured
with the perusal of a newspaper. When I expressed anxiety about my
numerous family, and spoke of my long absence of a year, I observed a
tear in the lady's eye, which I then thought the product of mere
sensibility; but I learnt subsequently, that she was aware the newspapers
she possessed, and out of sympathy withheld, would have apprised me of
the death of a son, which sad tidings were only communicated to me some
days after.[**]
[* Three Expeditions, etc., vol. i. p. 54.]
[** He died on the 16th July, at the age of eighteen, from the want of
medical aid, when surveying, in winter, the Australian Alps. His grave,
trodden by cattle hoofs, is in a desolate unconsecrated spot. He had
served the public, gratis, upwards of two years, as a draughtsman and
surveyor.]