Chapter III.

THE PARTY ADVANCES INTO THE UNKNOWN REGION BEYOND THE DARLING,--GUIDED BY

TWO ABORIGINAL NATIVES.--PLAINS AND LOW HILLS.--ARRIVE AT PONDS OR

SPRINGS CALLED "CARÀWY."--DELAYED BY THE WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--REACH

THE NARRAN SWAMP SOONER THAN EXPECTED.--BRIDGE MADE TO CROSS SOFT PART OF

SWAMP,--WHILE AWAITING THE ARRIVAL OF TIRED BULLOCKS.--SWAMP VERY

EXTENSIVE TO THE EASTWARD.--NEW PLANTS.--RIDE ACROSS THE SWAMP AND

RECONNOITRE THE RIVER NARRAN THIRTY MILES UPWARDS.--THE SWAMP THE LAST

RECEPTACLE OF THE RIVER.--BRIDGE LAID DOWN BY MOONLIGHT.--THE WHOLE PARTY

CROSSES IT, AND AFTERWARDS FORD THE NARRAN,--CROSSING TO THE LEFT BANK.--

ADVANCE BY VERY SHORT STAGES FROM WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--RICH GRASS ON

THE NARRAN.--ELEVATED STONY GROUND TO THE WESTWARD.--AGAIN RECONNOITRE

THE RIVER IN ADVANCE WHILE THE CATTLE REST.--PARLEY WITH A NATIVE.--TWO

NATIVES OF THE BALONNE GUIDE ME TO THAT RIVER.--APPROACH THE ASSEMBLED

POPULATION OF ITS BANKS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE TRIBES.--CORDIAL

RECEPTION.--CROSS THE BALONNE,--AND REACH THE CULG.--CIVILITY OF THE

NATIVES.--CROSS THE CULG.--TRAVEL UP ALONG THE RIGHT BANK OF THE

BALONNE.--GRASSY PLAINS ALONG ITS BANKS.--THE OLD DELAY, CATTLE

MISSING.--A NATIVE SCAMP.--SPLENDID REACHES OF THE RIVER.--DÉPÔT CAMP AT

A NATURAL BRIDGE.--RIDE TO THE NORTHWEST.--RECEIVE DISPATCHES FROM

SYDNEY.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.

5TH MARCH.--Early this morning the stockman brought over two natives,

brothers, who were to guide us to water ten miles on towards the Narran,

which was said to be thirty-five miles off. In the first two miles we

passed over some soft ground. Further on, hills were visible to the left,

which our native guides called Goodeingora. Fragments of conglomerate

rocks appeared in the soil of the plains, pebbles and grains of quartz

cemented by felspar. These plains appeared to become undulating ground as

we proceeded northward, and the surface became firmer. At length the

country opened into slight undulations, well clothed with grass, and good

for travelling over, the soil being full of the same hard rock found on

the rising grounds nearest to the Darling, in the lowest parts of that

river explored formerly by me. The red earth seemed to be but the

decomposed matrix of that rock, as the water-worn pebbles of quartz so

thickly set therein, here covered the ground in some places so thickly as

to resemble snow. Much Anthistiria and other good grasses grew on those

plains. I was, indeed, most agreeably surprised at the firm undulating

stony surface and open character of the country, where I had expected to

see soft clay, and holes and scrubs. At six miles, other slight

elevations appeared to the N. E. which the natives called Toolowly, a

name well calculated to fix in white men's memory elevations TOO LOW to

be called hills. They were quite high enough, however, along a line of

route for such heavy drays as those following us. There appeared much

novelty in the trees on this side the Darling. The ANGOPHORA LANCEOLATA

was every where; Callitris grew about the base of the hills, and some

very singular acacias, a long-leaved grey kind of wattle, the ACACIA

STENOPHYLLA of Cunningham. On one tree large pods hung in such profusion

as to bend the branches to the ground. From this abundance I supposed it

was not good to be eaten; nevertheless, I found in another place many of

the same pods roasted at some fires of the natives, and learnt from our

guides that they eat the pea. The pod somewhat resembled that of the

Cachou nut of the Brazils,--Mùnumulà is the native name. The grasses

comprised a great variety, and amongst the plants a beautiful little

BRUNONIA, not more than four inches high, with smaller flower-heads than

those of BR. SERICEA, quite simple or scarcely at all lobed, and a hairy

indusium.[*] The tree, still a nondescript, although the fruit had been

gathered by me in 1831, and then sent to Mr. Brown, was also here; and I

saw one or two trees of a species of CAPPARIS. Mr. Stephenson found a

great variety of new insects also.

[* B. SIMPLEX (Lindl. MSS.); pumila, foliis undique scapisque

longitudinaliter sericeis, villis appressis, capitulis subsimplicibus,

bracteis majoribus oblongis, indusio extus piloso.]

Our guides brought us at length to some waterholes, amongst some verdant

grass on a plain, where no stranger would have looked for water; and here

we encamped fifteen good miles from the Barwan. The ponds were called

"Caràwy," and were vitally important to us, enabling us to pass on

towards the Narran, which was still, as we had been informed, twenty-five

miles off. As we approached these springs, I saw some natives running

off, and I sent one of the guides after them to say we should do them no

harm, and beg them to stop, but he could not overtake them. The

undulations crossed by us this day seemed to extend east and west in

their elongations, and were probably parallel to the general course of

the main channel of drainage. The same felspathic rock seen in other

parts of this great basin, seems the basis of the clay, although the

fragments imbedded are very hard. The earth is reddish, and much

resembles in this respect the matrix of the conglomerate. Near these

springs we found a new HELICHRYSUM.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at

noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb, 65°.

[* HELICHRYSUM RAMOSISSIMUM (Hook. MSS.); suffruticosum valde ramosum

arachnoideo-tomentosum, foliis lineari-spathulatis subflaccidis acutis,

capitulis in racemis terminalibus parvis globosis flavis, involucri

squamis lineari-subulatis undulatis fimbriato-ciliatis.]

6TH MARCH.--The drays not having come up, in consequence of the excessive

length of yesterday's journey, and very hot weather--(16½ miles by

latitude alone)--we were obliged to remain inactive here on a beautiful

cool morning. I found near the ponds, several huts made of fresh branches

of trees and the remains of fires, doubtless the deserted home of the

fugitives of yesterday. At these fires I found the roasted pods of the

acacia already mentioned (Mùnumulà). The water was surrounded by fresh

herbage, and such was the simple fare of those aborigines, such the home

whence they fled. As I looked at it in the presence of my sable guides, I

could not but reflect that the white man's cattle would soon trample

these holes into a quagmire of mud, and destroy the surrounding verdure

and pleasant freshness for ever. I feared that my good-natured but acute

guides thought as much, and I blushed inwardly [*] for our pallid race.

[* The author of Waverley maintains that one may LAUGH inwardly--

conscience may, I suppose, make us also blush inwardly sometimes.]

All day we sat still in anxious suspense about the non-arrival of our

drays--the ground having been so good. With a country so interesting

before us, this delay was doubly irksome, and as the cattle could only be

watered by coming forward, why they did not come was the question; and

this was not solved until evening, when a messenger came forward to ask

if they might come, and to inform me that they were nearly exhausted. The

fatal alternative of endeavouring to make them work in the morning, after

passing a night without water, had been adopted, and as, on the day

before, they had been worked until dusk in expectation of reaching my

camp, they could not draw on the morning after; I instantly directed them

to be brought forward; but the consequence of this derangement was the

death of one, and much injury to many others. This contretemps arose

wholly from the guides not having been understood at the Barwan as to the

real distance, and this we had calculated too surely upon. Latitude 29°

52' 26" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 96°; at 4 P. M.,

102°; at 9, 83°;--with wet bulb, 68°.

7TH MARCH, 1846.--The bullocks having been sent back after they had been

watered last evening, the drays came up about 9 A. M. I left them in Mr.

Kennedy's charge, and proceeded with the light carts followed by all the

bullocks yoked up. They had trodden into mud the little water that had

been left at that camp, and could not live much longer without more. The

guides assured us the Narran was not far off, although we had understood

when at the Barwan that the distance was twenty-five miles from these

springs. We passed over very good ground, and found the country to

improve as we advanced. We were conducted through the most open parts of

scrubs by our guides, who were made to comprehend clearly how desirable

that was for our "wheelbarrows;" and after travelling about seven miles,

they pointed to a line of trees as the "Narran," beyond an extensive open

country, which had a singular appearance from being higher than that we

were upon. We crossed one or two slight elevations wholly composed of

compact felspar in blocks--forming ridges resembling an outcrop of

strata, whereof the strike always pointed N. W. and S. E. Various curious

new plants and fruits appeared; amongst others a solanum, the berry of

which was a very pleasant-tasted fruit. The plant was a runner and spread

over several yards from one root. There was also a fruit shaped like an

elongated egg; it appeared to be some Asclepiad, and was called by the

natives "Doobàh." They ate it, seeds and all, but said it was best

roasted. As we approached the elevated country between us and the distant

line of trees, we perceived that the vast level was covered with

POLYGONUM JUNCEUM in a verdant state. The colour was dark green, such as

I had never seen elsewhere in this "leafless bramble," as Sturt called

it, which looks ever quite dry and withered along the margins of the

Darling. We had good reason to love and admire its verdure now, when we

found amongst it pure water in great abundance, into which all our native

companions immediately plunged, and rolled about like porpoises. This,

they said, was the "Narran," but to the vast swampy plain they gave the

name of Keegur, a name quite useless for white men's memories or maps.

They seemed to say it was wholly an emanation from the Narran, and

pointed to the nearest part of the trees beyond, saying the river Narran

was there. I still endeavoured to proceed, as they wished, towards the

nearest trees beyond, until a winding narrow pond of water, in very soft

mud, precluded all hopes of crossing with our drays, without some sort of

bridge; I therefore immediately counter-marched the party with me, now

far advanced in that sea of dark green polygonum, and conducted it into a

position on open stony ground to the westward of our route, with the

intention to await there the arrival of the drays, and to prepare

materials for a bridge to be laid across the muddy pond, as I had seen a

small clump of pines (Callitris) at no great distance back. My guides did

not encourage a hope I entertained, that this swamp might be turned by

the westward, in which direction the open country extended to the

horizon. The man who travels with bullocks must expect to be impeded by

wet ground, as well as by the scarcity of water, in many situations where

horses could pass without difficulty. I directed the bullocks, that had

been driven forward with me, to be allowed to graze beside the water

until sunset, and then to be taken slowly back by moonlight to Mr.

Kennedy. Five had dropped down on the way, and had not come forward to

the water. Those sent back were also ordered to be allowed to feed all

the next day at Mr. Kennedy's camp, and only to start with the drays

there next evening, to come on by moonlight, thus avoiding the intense

heat, so oppressive under extreme thirst. The thermometer during the day,

rose to 103° in the shade. Latitude of the camp on Narran swamp, 29° 45'

51" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 P. M., 97°; at 9,

69°; ditto with wet bulb, 57°. The height of this camp above the sea, the

average of five registered observations, is 442 feet.

8TH MARCH.--The view northward from our present camp was most extensive.

Far in the northeast a yellow slope presented the unusual appearance

there, of a cultivated country. It was doubtless ripe grass, yet still

the earth there had not even been imprinted with any hoof. Between that

slope and our camp, lay the element, in abundance, which had been so

scarce on the other side of the Darling. To the northward, at no great

distance, was the river, where, as our guides informed us, we should no

longer be ill off for water in pursuing our journey along its banks. I

set the carpenter to cut sleepers and slabbing to enable us to bridge the

muddy creek, for I had examined it early in the morning, and had crossed

it with my horse; although I found several watercourses almost as soft,

beyond. The natives maintained that the water in this extensive swamp

came neither from the east nor west, but from the river directly before

us, which came from the northward. Just behind our camp, to the

southward, was a gentle elevation, almost a hill, consisting of the usual

rock, felspar; and it seemed to me that this stony ground alone impeded

the further progress of the water towards the Barwan. The ridge trended

north-west, as most others did in this extensive basin; and this

direction being nearly parallel to that of the coast ranges further

northward, seemed to afford additional reason for expecting to find

anticlinal and synclinal lines, and, consequently, rivers, much in the

same direction. D'Urban's group, distant 150 miles lower down the

Darling, consisted of a quartzose rock, exactly similar to this,

exhibiting a tendency, like it, to break into irregular polygons, some of

the faces being curved. This rock is most extensively distributed in the

interior of New South Wales. It was not until the evening of this day

that the approach of the drays was announced, and then prematurely, the

teams only having been brought forward to the water without them. So weak

were the unfortunate animals, that not even by night, nor by doubling the

numbers, could they be made to draw the drays forward, for the short

distance of eight miles; a distance which we had been given to understand

was so much greater. Forward, all was most promising, and it may be

imagined how bitterly I regretted the alteration of my original plan of

equipment, which had reference to horses and light carts alone. A new

species of ANTHISTIRIA occurred here, perfectly distinct from the

kangaroo grass of the colony, very like APLUDA MUTICA, and remarkable for

the smooth shining appearance of the thin involucral leaves.[*] The

TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, in great abundance, was conspicuous, with its

long silky ears of green flowers. On the stony ground occurred a very

curious new woolly KOCHIA [**], also a species of CYPERUS; the TRICHINIUM

LANATUM in great perfection; a grass resembling the close reed

(CALAMAGROSTIS of England), and which proved to be the little-known

TRIRAPHIS MOLLIS. On the margin of the morass the DACTYLOCTENIUM

RADULANS, spreading over the interstices, reminded the traveller of the

grasses of Egypt; and, in stony ground near the morass, we observed the

JUSTICIA MEDIA of Brown. Thermometer at sunrise, 66°; at noon, 98°; at 4

P. M. 102°; at 9, 81°; ditto with wet bulb, 74°.

[* A. MEMBRANACEA (Lindl. MSS); involucris carinatis margine membranaceis

foliis vaginisque glaberrimis, floribus verticillatis pedicellatis

(masculis?), glumis omnibus scabris, aristâ glaberrimâ glumâ 3plo

longiore.]

[** K. LANOSA (Lindl. MSS); ramis strictis foliisque linearibus acutis

cinereis tomentosis, fructibus lanatis, calycis laciniis elongatis.]

9TH MARCH.--My native guides, tired of the delay, were anxious to return,

and as the assistance they could afford me was likely to be extremely

useful, and the arrival of the drays was most uncertain, I went forward

this morning with one of them, two men, and Youranigh, our interpreter,

all mounted. Amongst the trees, beyond the swamp, fine reaches of water

appeared in a river channel, apparently continuous to the northward, but

which, in the other direction, or towards the swamp, abruptly terminated

like a cul-de-sac. On my asking the natives where it went to, they

pointed to the various narrow water courses and the swamp as the final

depositories of the water. Admirable distribution of the contents of a

river in a country where water is so scarce, and the climate so hot and

dry! We proceeded along the margin of the "Narran," which led us nearly

due north, until we forded it, at the desire of our guides, on a good

gravelly bottom, the water reaching to our saddle-flaps. Crossing a

slight elevation where the soil was gravelly, and in which grew the

shrubs of the ordinary scrubs with several interesting novelties, we

again came upon an angle of the Narran, and continued along its banks for

about thirty miles, until near sunset, when we tethered our horses, and

lay down for the night. The Narran was full of water every where, and

with this abundance of water there was also plenty of most excellent

grass. The PANICUM LOEVINODE of Dr. Lindley seemed to predominate, a

grass whereof the seed ("Cooly") is made by the natives into a kind of

paste or bread. Dry heaps of this grass, that had been pulled expressly

for the purpose of gathering the seed, lay along our path for many miles.

I counted nine miles along the river, in which we rode through this grass

only, reaching to our saddle-girths, and the same grass seemed to grow

back from the river, at least as far as the eye could reach through a

very open forest. I had never seen such rich natural pasturage in any

other part of New South Wales. Still it was what supplied the bread of

the natives; and these children of the soil were doing every thing in

their power to assist me, whose wheel tracks would probably bring the

white man's cattle into it. We had followed well-beaten paths of natives

during the whole of this day's ride, and most anxious were my guides and

I to see them; but they avoided us. Our guide was of that country, and

not at all unwilling or timid; but evidently very desirous to introduce

us to the inhabitants, and procure amongst them other guides to lead us

further. The night was very hot, and flies and mosquitos did their utmost

to prevent us from sleeping. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°; at noon, 99°;

at 4 P. M., 105°; at 9, 83°; ditto with wet bulb, 75°.

10TH MARCH.--Anxious for an interview with some of the natives, I

continued the pursuit of the Narran's course about five miles higher, but

with no better success. I then turned, after obtaining from our guide,

through Youranigh, what information could be gathered thus, as to the

river's further course, the best bank for the passage of our drays, etc.

We were still, he said, a long way from the "Culgoa." There was no

perceptible change in the aspect of the "Narran" as far as we had

examined it, except that where we turned, there were flood-marks, and the

dead logs and river wreck, deposited on the upper side of trees and

banks, showing a current and high floods. The last of these, our guide

said, had occurred about five moons before. In riding back to the camp we

kept the castern bank, that the track might be available for our drays.

This ride along a river where we could, when we pleased, either water our

horses, or take a drink ourselves, was quite new and delightful to us,

under a temperature of 105° in the shade. Our guide, aged apparently

about fifty, walked frequently into the river, while in a state of

perspiration; dipped quite under water, or drank a little with his lip on

the level of its surface, and then walked on again. He was at last very

tired, however, and pointed to the large muscles of the RECTUS FEMORIS as

if they pained him. We found at the camp, on our return, five of the

drays that had come up, the other three being still behind, and requiring

double teams of exhausted cattle to bring them forward. In the vicinity

of our camp we found the TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, with heads of flowers

nearly five inches long; an eucalyptus near E. PULVERULENTA, but having

more slender peduncles; a sort of Iron-bark. We found also a tall

glaucous new HALORAGIS [*], and a curious new shaggy KOCHIA was

intermingled with the grass.[**] Thermometer at sunrise, 77°; at noon,

102°; at 4, 107°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 71°.

[* H. GLAUCA (Lindl. MSS.); annua, stricta, glaberrima, glauca, foliis

oppositis lineari-oblongis obtusis petiolatis grossè serratis, racemis

apice aphyllis, fructu globoso tuberculato laevi.]

[** K. VILLOSA (Lindl. MSS.); ramis erectis foliisque linearibus

villosissimis, fructibus glabris.]

11TH MARCH.--All the drays came in early. I gave to the two natives, the

tomahawks, tobacco, and pipes, as promised; also a note to the stockman

on the Barwan, who had provided me with them, saying that they had been

very useful. I this morning examined the country to the westward of the

swamp, and found a narrow place at which we could pass, and so avoid much

soft heavy ground. The ramifications of the watery Narran penetrated into

the hollows of the stony ridge, presenting there little hollows full of

rich verdure and pools of water, a sight so unwonted amongst rocks

characteristic of D'Urban's arid group. In one little hollow, to the

westward of our camp, it seemed possible for two men with a pickaxe and

shovel to have continued it through, and so to have opened a new channel

for the passage of the waters of the Narran swamp, into the dry country

between it and the Barwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 55°; at noon, 105°; at

4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 59°.

12TH MARCH.--I found it necessary to sit still here and refresh the jaded

bullocks; thus days and months passed away, in which with horses I might

have continued the journey. The very extensive country before us, which

appeared to absorb these waters, was quite clear of timber, and irrigated

by little canals winding amongst POLYGONUM JUNCEUM. This open country

appeared to extend north-eastward about eight miles, thence to turn

eastward, as if these waters found some outlet that way to the Barwan. I

regretted that this swamp led too far out of our way, to admit of our

tracing its limits to the eastward.

This day I received letters from Commissioner Mitchell, in which he

strongly recommended to my attention the rivers Biree, Bokhara, and

Narran, as waters emanating from, and leading to, the Balonne, a river

which he said might supply our party with water, in this very dry season,

almost to the tropic. I was able to inform him in reply, that I was

already on the Narran, and that I had already availed myself of his

account of the rivers formerly sent me, on which I must have been obliged

to depend, even if the party had passed by Fort Bourke.

This evening, by moonlight, I conducted a dray, carrying two platforms,

to the place where the narrow channel, feeding the swamp, could be passed

without our meeting beyond any other impediment to the drays. The

sleepers used for this purpose were made of pine (CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS),

found half a mile back from our camp. They were fourteen feet long, two

feet wide, being composed of cross-pieces, two feet long, fixed at each

end between two sleepers, so that they somewhat resembled a wooden

railway. These, when laid at the proper distance apart to carry both

wheels, were bedded on the soft earth, and the interval between was

filled to a level with them, by layers of polygonum and long grass,

alternate with earth, forming together a mass of sufficient resistance to

support the feet of the draught oxen. The whole formed a compact bridge

or gangway. Thermometer at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 107°;

at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 61°.

13TH MARCH.--The party once more moved onward, and the drays trundled

across the swampy arm by means of our bridge, which, even in the event of

an accession of water there, might have proved serviceable on our return.

Three miles beyond it we had to ford the Narran, passing over a gravelly

bottom to the eastern bank, and encamping there. The drays were slow in

arriving at this ford and camp, as the ground was soft and hollow, but by

sunset all had crossed, and our camp established on the Narran.

Thermometer at sunrise, 71°; at noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 100°; at 9,

71°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The height of this camp above the sea,

according to ten registered observations, is 487 feet.

14TH MARCH.--We now had before us water and grass in abundance, to a

distance as unlimited and indefinite, as our hopes of discovery. I

intended to set out early each morning, and travel only four or five

miles, that the jaded animals, exhausted by want of water and hard work,

might have time to feed and refresh. One old cause of delay, however,

again occurred to impede us,--three bullocks were reported missing. Now

it was nearly full moon, and two men had been on watch all night. It

really seemed that delay and disappointment must attend all who depend on

bullocks and bullock-drivers. The stray cattle were not brought up until

9 A. M., when we proceeded, and encamped on an angle of the Narran, after

travelling about five miles. In the scrubs passed through, we found the

fragrant JASMINUM LINEARE in fruit, the flowers being nearly past; a bulb

which proved to be the ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM of Brown; a shrub ten feet

high, in fruit, the CANTHIUM OLEIFOLIUM of Sir William Hooker; a fine new

CHENOPODIUM, with long naked spikes of woolly yellow flowers [*]; and a

hoary variety of ACACIA LEPTOCLADA, or perhaps a distinct species, having

a good deal of the aspect of A. DEALBATA, but the leaves and glands

nearer those of A. LEPTOCLADA, according to Mr. Bentham. Thermometer at

sunrise, 70°; at noon, 103°; at 4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 81°;--with wet bulb,

75°.

[* C. AURICOMUM (Lindl. MSS.); totum glaucum farinosum, caule stricto,

foliis petiolatis oblongis subhastatis lobisque posticis obtusis supremis

lanceolatis, spicis compositis nudis aphyllis glomeratis multifloris

tomentosis.]

15TH MARCH.--The sand amongst the scrubs was so soft and yielding, that

the draught animals could not draw the drays through it without great

difficulty; indeed, it was only possible by double-backing, as the

drivers termed their practice of alternately assisting one another, a

process to which all had had recourse with one exception. It was not

until 1 A. M. of this morning, therefore, that the last dray was brought

to the camp. Another bullock died on the way, and thus I felt, when the

field of discovery lay open before me, that my means of conveyance were

unsuited to the task. Overloading at Boree, unskilful driving, excessive

heat, and want of water, had contributed to render the bullocks

unserviceable, and I already contemplated the organization of a lighter

party and fewer men, with which I might go forward at a better rate,

leaving the heavy articles of equipment and tired cattle in a depôt, on

some good grassy spot. The latitude of this camp was 29° 38' 21" south.

Thermometer at sunrise, 73°; at noon, 84°; at 4 P. M., 86°; at 9, 65°;--

with wet bulb, 60°.

16TH MARCH.--I proceeded six miles, and chose a camp beside a bend of the

Narran, full of deep water, and in the midst of most luxuriant grass. The

drays arrived by 11 A. M. in such good order, that I was induced to try

whether, by early starting, good feeding, and short journeys, the party

could not be got forward to the Balonne, where I could leave the whole in

one depôt, to rest and refresh, while I took my intended ride forward.

Latitude, 29° 34' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 86°; at 4

P. M., 87°; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 55°.

17TH MARCH.--I proceeded seven miles, and the drays came forward as well

as they did yesterday, so that I again entertained hopes of the progress

of the united party, which was very desirable, as these plains were

evidently sometimes so saturated with water as to be rendered wholly

impassable for wheel-carriages or even horses. Latitude, 29° 29' 11" S.

Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 87°; at 4 P. M., 91°; at 9, 62°;--

with wet bulb, 52°.

18TH MARCH.--Again we made out a short journey over rather soft ground;

all the drays coming in, although slowly. I rode to a gently rising

ground, a great novelty, which appeared bearing E. N. E. from our camp,

at a distance of 2½ miles. I found it consisted of gravel of the usual

conglomerate decomposed--of rounded fragments of about a cubic inch in

bulk. The grass was good there, and I perceived that the same gravelly

ridge extended back from the river in a north and south direction.

Graceful groups of trees grew about this stony ground, which looked, upon

the whole, better than the red sandy soil of the scrubs and callitris

forest. This seemed the dividing ridge between the Narran and Barwan.

From this elevation, I saw that the course of the former ran still in a

good direction for us, to a great distance northward. On that stony

ground I found a new PITTOSPORUM five feet high, with long narrow leaves,

in the way of P. ROEANUM and ANGUSTIFOLIUM, but distinct from both in the

form of its fruit.[*] Latitude of camp 29° 25' 21". Thermometer at

sunrise, 53°; at noon, 90°; at 4 P. M., 96°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb,

61°.

[* P. SALICINUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis lineari-lanceolatis coriaccis

acutissimis aveniis, pedunculis unifloris aggregatis axillaribus,

fructibus subglobosis vix compressis.]

19TH MARCH.--Pursuing the Narran, keeping its eastern or left bank, our

course this day was more to the northward. I encamped after travelling

six miles, not only because the ground was soft and heavy for the drays,

but because I saw that the Narran turned much to the eastward, and I

contemplated the passage across it, intending to look for it again, by

travelling northward. Accordingly, as soon as our ground had been marked

out, I crossed to reconnoitre the country in that direction. I found a

fine, open, grassy country, but no signs of the river at the end of five

miles, nor even until I had ridden as far eastward. There, recrossing it,

I returned to the camp through some fine open forest country. Latitude

observed, 29° 21' 51", S. Thermometer at sunrise, 57°; at 4 P. M., 96°;

at 9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 62°.

20TH MARCH.--Retracing my homeward tracks of yesterday, we proceeded in a

nearly E. N. E. direction, along much firmer ground than we had recently

traversed. The great eastern bend of the river was found amongst much

excellent grass and amidst much fine timber. A species of Anthistiria

appeared here, which seemed different from the ordinary sort, although

this was no stranger to me, when exploring the waterless plains westward

of the Lachlan, where it looked as if stunted for want of moisture. Here,

however, this variety presented the same knotty head, where other grasses

grew luxuriantly. After getting round the extreme eastern turn of the

Narran we encamped. Near the spot large rocks appeared in the bed, as if

the river was passing through the stock of the gravelly ridge I had

visited on the 18th. The rock consisted of that found about the basin of

the Darling; a quartzose conglomerate with much felspar, and having

pebbles of quartz imbedded. The large fragments of the conglomerate in

the river bed were angular, and not at all rounded at the edges. Here the

poor natives had been very industrious, as was evident from heaps of the

grass PANICUM LOEVINODE, and of the same redstalked coral-like plant,

also mentioned as having been observed in similar heaps, on the banks of

the Darling, during my journey of 1835 (vol. i. p. 238). I now

ascertained that the seed of the latter is also collected by the natives

and made into a paste. This seed was black and small, resembling fine

gunpowder when shaken out. Nevertheless it was sweet and pleasant to the

taste, possessing a nutty flavour.

The human inhabitants were few, and as invisible as other animals in

these forests--the prints of whose feet were also plain in the soft

smooth surface. As faithless as the snows of the North [*], this soil

bore the impressions of all animals obliged to go to the water, and

amongst them those of the naked feet of men, women, and children, with

the prints likewise of other BIPEDS, such as emus and kangaroos, and also

those of the native dog. Here still was our own race amongst other

animals all new and strange to Europeans. The prints of the foot of man

alone were familiar to us. But here he was living in common with other

animals, simply on the bounty of nature; artless, and apparently as much

afraid of us, and as shy, as other animals of the forest. It seemed

strange, that in a climate the most resembling that of Milton's paradise,

the circumstances of man's existence should be the most degrading.

Latitude of our camp, 29° 19' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 55°; at

noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The mean

elevation above the sea of our camps thus far on the Narran, seven in

number, was 477 feet; the bed of the river being about 15 feet lower.

[* "And hungry Maukin's ta'en her way To kailyards green, While faithless

snaws ilk step betray Whar she has been." BURNS.]

21ST MARCH.--Proceeded as usual through fine grass, the river coming

favourably round towards the north. At about two miles I found some

traces of horses, and I looked at the river bank for Commissioner

Mitchell's initials, supposing this might be "Congo," where he had forded

the Narran. But we had not reached the latitude of Congo according to his

map. Nevertheless we found here such an excellent dry ford, with gently

sloping banks to a stony bottom, that the two circumstances induced me to

cross the Narran with the party. I travelled west-ward, until meeting

with a dense scrub, I turned towards the friendly Narran, where we

encamped in latitude 29° 15' 31" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at

noon, 97°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 72°; ditto with wet bulb, 66°.

22D MARCH.--Gave the party a day's rest, prayers being read by the

surgeon, as was usual whenever circumstances admitted of our halting on

Sunday. The bed of the Narran presented in several places the denuded

rock, which seems the basis of all the soil and gravel of the country. At

one place irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, cemented by a

ferruginous basis, was predominant; at another, the rough surface of

compact felspar weathering white presented merely the cavities in which

large rounded pebbles had been imbedded, until the partial decomposition

of the felspar, under the river floods, had exposed them once more to the

action of water. The force of those waters, however, had not been

sufficient to cut a channel through very soft rocks extending right

across their course--a circumstance rather characteristic, perhaps, of a

river like the Narran, watering a nearly level country, and terminating

in a swamp. Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 98°;

at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 66°. Height above the sea, 515 feet, from

eight observations.

23RD MARCH.--All hands were bent on an early start this morning, and,

soon after seven, the party moved off. We crossed much grassy land,

almost approaching to the character of scrub as to bushes; but we pursued

a tolerably straight course to the N.W., until we again made the Narran

at 8½ miles. Various new plants attracted my attention this day,

especially a beautiful Loranthus on the rosewood Acacia, and a small bush

bearing a green pod resembling a small capsicum in shape. Among the

sedges by the river we found the KYLLINGA MONOCEPHALA; and, on the rich

black clayed soil near it, a species of bindweed out of flower, with

large sagittate leaves: in the scrubs back from the river, grew a small

bush, about four feet high, which has been considered either a variety of

Brown's SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, or a new species distinguished by its narrow

sharp-pointed leaves. The LORANTHUS LINEARI. FOLIUS was growing on the

rosewood Acacia, and the branches of Eucalypti were inhabited by the

parasitical ORANGE LORANTH.[*] Lat., 29°1 0' 6" S. Therm. at sunrise,

51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 99°; at 9, 70°;--wet bulb, 63°.

[* L. AURANTIACUS (All. Cunn. MS.); ramis elongatis laxis gracilibus,

foliis oppositis longe petiolatis oblongis obtusis lanceolatisve

acuminatis glabris 3-5-nerviis tenui-marginatis, paniculis folio

brevioribus ditrichotomis, floribus erectis, calycibus subcylindraceis

superne latioribus truncatis, petalis linearibus 6, stylo infra apicem

geniculato, stigmate dilatato truncato.--W. J. H.]

24TH MARCH.--We set off still earlier this morning. I hoped to reach the

Bokhara, on the West, a river shown on the map sent me by the

Commissioner of the district, but after travelling about seven miles to

the northward, I saw rising ground before me, which induced me to turn

towards our own friendly river the Narran; but it proved to be very far

from us, while in my search for it, to my surprise, I found it necessary

to descend several considerable declivities, covered with waterworn

pebbles. At length a slight opening in the dense scrubs through which we

had forced our way, afforded a view towards the south-east of the low

range we were upon, which trended very continuously to the north-west,

covered thickly with the "Malga" tree of the natives; to the traveller

the most formidable of scrubs. After several other descents, we reached

the Narran, but only at half-past three in the afternoon, when we had

travelled nearly twenty miles. How the teams were to accomplish this, it

was painful to consider. I sent back a messenger to desire that the

cattle should be detached and brought forward to the water; content to

lose one day, if that indeed would suffice to recover the jaded animals.

Casuarinae now grew amongst the river trees, and reminded me of the banks

of the Karaula in 1831. We had also noticed another novelty in the woods

we passed through this day; a small clump of trees of iron-bark with a

different kind of leaf from that of the tree known by that name in the

colony. On the higher stony land, a bush was common, and proved to be a

broad-leaved variety of EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, if not a distinct species.

We there met with a new species of the rare and little-known genus,

GEIJERA; forming a strong-scented shrub, about ten feet high, and having

long, narrow, drooping leaves. Its fruit had a weak, peppery taste.[*]

The rare ENCHYLOENA TOMENTOSA formed a shrub a foot high, loaded with

yellow berries: all the specimens were digynous, in which it differed

from the description of Brown. The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was observed

amongst the climbing shrubs still in fruit; and a beautiful new LORANTH,

with red flowers tipped with green, was parasitical on trees.[**] On the

bank of the Narran we found the AMARANTHUS UNDULATUS of Brown.

[* G. PARVIFLORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis erectis, foliis longis linearibus

pendulis in petiolum sensim angustatis 4 unc. longis.]

[** Loranthus LINEARIFOLIUS (Hook. MS.); foliis lineari-filiformibus

acutis carnosis glabris teretibus, pedunculis axillaribus brevibus

bifloris, calycibus cylindraceis truncatis contractis, petalis 6

linearibus supra basin coalitis.]

The cattle arrived in the dark, and were watered in the muddy-banked

Narran, by the light of burning boughs; then set to feed. Lat. 29° 6' 33"

S.; therm. at sunrise, 48°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 74°; ditto with wet

bulb, 62°.

25TH MARCH.--The cattle had now to return to bring forward the drays.

Meanwhile I took a ride up the river, in order to ensure a moderate

journey for these exhausted animals. Proceeding along the right bank, I

found gravelly slopes almost closing upon the river. The direction of its

course for four miles, was nearly southward. Then I saw gravelly ridges

on the left, and a line of wood before me, while the river evidently came

from the East round the margin of an extensive plain. I continued

northward; found a rosewood scrub: then saw the Malga tree; passed

through scrubs thereof; found myself on stony ridges, whence descending

in a N. E. direction, again passed through rosewood scrubs, and only

reached the river after riding 2½ miles in that direction. I saw a

continuous ridge, bare and distant, beyond what I considered the river

bed, and a similar ridge to the westward. I crossed a native camp where

the newly deserted fires still smoked. We saw one man at a distance, who

did not mind us much; I could not have obtained any information from him,

and therefore did not seek a parley. Crossing the Narran there, by a

beaten track, beside a native fishing fence, I returned to the camp, on

the bearing of S. S. W., and found a grassy plain the whole way back,

until within sight of the tents, and a good rocky ford for the passage of

the party next day. On the stony ridge I found a remarkable shrub, a

species of Sida (ABUTILON), allied to S. GRAVEOLENS, Roxb., but distinct.

The teams brought the drays in, about 5 P. M.; one animal of all being

missing. Therm. at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 89°; at 4 P. M., 91°; at 9,

60°;--with wet bulb, 53°.

26TH MARCH.--Early this morning, William Baldock was sent back in search

of the stray bullock, while the party crossed the Narran, and proceeded

along my horse's track of yesterday. Baldock over took the party, having

found the bullock on the river, four miles below our late encampment. The

natives seen yesterday had disappeared, having previously set fire to the

grass. We proceeded two miles beyond their fires, and encamped on the

river bank in lat. 29° 1' 57" S.

A small path along the river margin; marks on trees, where hollow

portions of bark had been taken off; some ancient, some recent, huts of

withered boughs and dry grass; freshwater muscle shells, beside the ashes

of small fires; and, in some places, a small heap of pulled grass

(PANICUM LOEVINODE), or of the coral plant; such were the slight but

constant indications of the existence of man on the Narran. Such was the

only home of our fellow-beings in these parts, and from it they retired

on our approach. Ducks, which were rather numerous, and emus (coming to

drink), probably constituted their chief food, as nets to ensnare both

these kinds of birds, were found about their huts. Youranigh brought me

one of their chisels, a small bit of iron fastened to a stick with gum,

and tied with a piece of striped shirting. I directed him to place it

carefully where he had found it. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon,

90°; at 4 P. M., 95°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb, 60°. The mean height

above the sea of the camps of 23d, 24th, and 26th March, was 461 feet.

27TH MARCH.--Pursuing, as well as we could, the course of the Narran,

which came more from the northward, we again encamped on its banks after

a journey of seven miles, without recognising any indication of the

vicinity of the larger stream, which, according to our latitude, we ought

by this to have reached. The current here had evidently been more

decided, and dry trunks and other FLUVIATILE DEBRIS lay more in masses

against whatever had lain in the water's way. Excellent grass clothed the

plains over which we had passed during the two last days, and grew

abundantly also about the banks of the river; but, in general, a belt of

the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM, about 400 or 500 yards wide, grew between the

immediate margin and the grassy plains. This shrub was found an

infallible guide to the vicinity of the river, when, as sometimes

happened, other lines of trees, resembling those on its banks, had led me

to a distance from it. The day was cool and rather cloudy, a great

novelty to us; for every day had been clear and unclouded, since long

before we crossed the Barwan. Abundance of the stones of the quandang

fruit (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS) lay at an old fire of the natives, and showed

that we were not far from the northern limit of the great clay basin, as

the quandang bush grows only upon the lowest slopes of hilly land. Lat.

28° 55' 13" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 90°; at 4 P. M., 89;

at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 61°.

28TH MARCH.--At 2 A. M., loud thunder was heard in the south-west, where

a dark cloud arose and passed round to the northward; a few drops of rain

fell. The morning was otherwise clear, with a cooling breeze from S. W.

Thermometer at sunrise, 56°. We proceeded, travelling chiefly amongst

very luxuriant grass. The river now disappeared as far to the westward of

my northerly course on this left bank, as it had left me when on the

other bank by unexpected turns to the eastward. I came upon its banks

after travelling about eight miles. At the spot where I wished to place

the camp I perceived a native, and with Youranigh's assistance, managed

to prevent him from running away. He spoke only "Jerwoolleroy," a dialect

which my native did not understand at all well. He told us, however, that

this was still the Narran, and pointed N. W. to the Balonne. Upon the

whole we gathered from him that neither that river nor the Bokhara was

far from us. I endeavoured to convince him, by Youranigh's assurances,

and our own civility to him, that we meant no harm to any natives, and

were only passing through the country. He did not seem afraid, although

he had never, until then, seen white men. We encamped near him. The river

channel was very narrow, and contained but little water here-abouts. I

understood from the native (through Youranigh) that the river here spread

into various channels, and that "BARRO" was the name of a river beyond

the Culg, which falls into it from the northward; "TOORINGORRA," the

lagoon on which we encamped after meeting natives on the 31st March. Near

this camp we found a PHYLLANTHUS, scarcely different from P. SIMPLEX; a

SESBANIA near S. ACULEATA, but with smaller flowers; and the CHENOPODIUM

AURICOMUM, formed a white-leaved shrub, three or four feet high.

Thermometer at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 78°; at 4 P. M., 82°; at 9, 61°;--

with wet bulb, 56°.

29TH MARCH.--After prayers (the day being Sunday) I sent Mr. Kennedy

forward to explore the course of the river, in order to ensure a more

direct line for to-morrow's route. Mr. Kennedy was accompanied by one of

the men armed, and also by Youranigh, all being mounted. He returned in

about four hours, having found the river coming from the northward, and

he also reported favourably of the ground. Thermometer at sunrise, 48°;

at 4 P. M., 81°; at 9, 51°;--with wet bulb, 47°.

30TH MARCH.--The night had been cool and pleasant, Thermometer at sunrise

only 42°. The cattle were yoked up early, and we travelled on over fine

grassy plains, and with open gravelly ridges on our right. At length,

about the sixth mile, these ridges closed on the river, where there was

one hill almost clear of trees or bushes. I ascended it, but could only

see plains to the westward, and a dense line of river-trees running

north. We at length encamped on what appeared to be still the Narran,

after a journey of about eight miles.

We this day passed a small group of trees of the yellow gum, a species of

eucalyptus growing only on the poor sandy soil near Botany Bay, and other

parts of the sea-coast near Sydney. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 P.

M., 83°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. Mean height of the camps of the

27th, 28th, and 30th, above the level of the sea, 509 feet.

31ST MARCH.--The various lines of trees were now so much dispersed across

the country, that to follow the line of the Narran, it was necessary to

see its ponds and channel as frequently as possible. The course, if not

of the river, at least of its ana-branches; and there were besides those,

branches of another kind, namely, true branches coming from the main

channel, as branches leave the stem of a tree, never to unite with it

again. Some of those of this description, so closely resembled in every

respect the Narran, that the difference was only to be distinguished by

observing the marks of flood on trees, and ascertaining the direction of

the current. We had crossed several such, and were rather in a "fix" with

some lagoons, when I perceived several native children in one of them. I

wished here to intercept some natives who might tell us where was the

ford of "Congo," where white men had crossed the Balonne, or where was

the river Balonne. The children fled, but two manly voices were heard

immediately, and two natives came confidently up to Youranigh and then to

me. The eldest seemed about fifty-five years of age; the other was a lad

of about twenty. They spoke of "Congo," and the Balonne (BALONGO) as

quite at hand, and undertook to conduct us to both. It was quite evident

from their pronunciation, that "Baloon" was not the proper native name,

but Bal, the termination they gave it of "GO," being an article they very

often use, Bal-go being equivalent to THE Balonne; as in speaking of the

Barwan, they say "Barwàngo." I had nearly completed the usual short

journey when we fell in with these natives, but I was unwilling to lose

the advantage of their assistance, and so travelled on under their

guidance, full five miles further, before I fixed on a spot for the camp.

This was by a splendid piece of water, named by them Tooningora, nearly

on a level with the adjacent plains, and covered with ducks. We had

passed other fine sheets of water guided by our native friends, and over

a rich grassy country remarkably level and free from scrub. It was

evidently changed by the vicinity of the larger river. I continued to

follow our new friends beyond where I had directed the party to encamp,

in expectation of seeing the marked tree at Congo, and the river Balonne.

After going forward thus about four miles, we saw five gins running off

at a great distance across some open plains, apparently near the river.

The eldest of our guides ran after them, and I requested him to assure

them that the white men would do no harm, and to tell them not to run

away. At length he overtook them. Two appeared to carry unseemly loads

across their backs, dangling under large opossum-skin cloaks, and it was

evident that these were mummied bodies. I had heard of such a custom, but

had not before seen it. I had then but a distant view of these females,

as they resumed their flight, and continued it until they reached woods

bounding the plain on the westward. The line of Yarra trees of the great

Balonne river ran parallel to our march westward, and there also,

according to my guides, was "Congo," the ford marked out by my son, and

which spot I most anxiously desired to see and identify by his initials.

Still my guides led westward towards the woods, and as we approached

them, the shout or scream of little Dicky, a native child of the Bogan,

follower of my camp, first drew my attention to a black phalanx within

the forest, of natives presenting a front like a battalion. Youranigh my

interpreter halted and remonstrated: our elder guide ran forward, and on

his reaching that body, the sound of gruff voices that arose from it

strongly reminded me of Milton's description of Satan's army:

"Their rising all at once was as the sound Of thunder heard remote."

Youranigh would not advance another step, although much pressed by the

other native remaining with us to do so, but declared that "those fellows

were murry coola," (very angry). We therefore retraced our footsteps to

the camp, without having seen either the Balongo or Congo. Our guide soon

overtook us, accompanied by fourteen of the strange natives, who, all

curiosity, passed the night at our camp, and they brought with them a lad

named "Jemmy," who spoke a little English, and had visited many of our

cattle-stations. He was very intelligible to Youranigh, who but very

imperfectly understood the language of the rest. They seemed upon the

whole a frank and inoffensive race. Their food consisted of the fish of

the river, ducks, and the small indigenous melon, CUCUMIS PUBESCENS,

which grew in such abundance, that the whole country seemed strewed with

the fruit, then ripe, and of which the natives eat great quantities, and

were very fond. It is about the size of a plum only, and in the journal

of my first interior journey (in 1831), is mentioned as a cucumber we

were afraid to eat. (Vol. I. p. 88.) Latitude of camp, 28° 38' 47" S.

Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 P. M., 83°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb,

57°.

1ST APRIL.--The whole party moved off about the usual hour, 7 A. M.,

still under the guidance of our new acquaintance, towards the Balonne. On

our way the natives were very careful to point out how muddy hollows

could best be avoided by our drays. I saw seated at a distance, in due

form, the tribe to which they belonged; and having directed the party to

halt, went up to them. They were seated in three groups; old men on the

right, painted red; old women in the centre, painted white; and other

women and children on the left. The few strong men who appeared, formed a

circle around me, and told me their names as they came up to me. I

desired Youranigh to tell them that we were passing that way across the

Balonne to a very far-off country, and did not wish to disturb them, etc.

When all was said that could be said, and I was about to return, one of

the chiefs, "Yarree," said "good night," words which he must have learnt

at some cattle station. Although it was only morning, I returned the

compliment with all possible gravity, and took my leave. Soon after, we

arrived on the bank of the Balonne, as fine a looking river as I have

seen in the colony, excepting only the Murray. There was a slight

current, and the waters lay in broad reaches, under banks less elevated

above the bed than those of the Darling. In breadth the channel surpassed

that of the last named river in any part, I believe, of its course.

We encamped near a shallow place, which the natives at first said was

"Congo," but where we found no marks on the trees. The curiosity of the

natives having been gratified, they disappeared; but I must mention that,

having missed the elder of the two men who had guided us here since the

first evening, I learnt, on inquiring what had become of him, that he had

gone back to his little boys, whom he had left at the water-holes where

he first met us, six miles back, and for whom he had apparently gathered

his little net of melons. Nothing could have been finer than this man's

conduct. He had at once come on with us to guide us where we wanted to

go; took great pains to make us known to his own tribe, and, I believe,

to other assembled tribes at some risk to himself; and then, without

claiming my promised gifts, he had returned to his little family, left at

such a distance, only that he might do that which was civil, to us

strangers. Yet we call these men savages! I fear such disinterested acts

of civility on the part of the civilised portion of mankind are rather

rare. He had rendered to us, at all events, a very great service; for the

danger of sudden collision with the natives was at an end, after our

introduction by him to the tribes. In the afternoon, Slater, one of the

bullock-drivers, found a good fording-place; and I sent a few men to cut

the banks, and fill up a soft part of the river bed with logs, branches,

and earth, for the better passage of the drays; a work they completed

before night. I rode about five miles beyond the river to the north-west,

and met, first with a very broad lagoon full of water, nearly on a level

with the plains, and apparently permanent; secondly, I found beyond this,

a river or chain of ponds somewhat like the Narran. This I ascertained

was called the Càwan by the natives, and that it meandered very much. The

country was rather fine. These waters were bordered by well-grown trees,

and the plains were covered with good grass. Lat. of our camp, on the

Balonne, 28° 25' 38" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 75°; at 4

P.M., 79°; at 9, 60;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height of the bed of the

Balonne above the level of the sea, 494 feet; an average of three

observations.

2D APRIL.--All the drays and the party crossed the river this morning in

good order, and without any accident or much delay, by the little bridge

we had made in its bed. While they were crossing, the place seemed to me

so favorable for a ford that it might still be possible to find some of

the marked trees said to be at "Congo." I again questioned the natives on

this point, and one youth undertook to point out some marks made by white

men. Mr. Kennedy ran with him on foot up the left bank of the river, and

was shown two trees marked, the one with "J. Towns," the other with

"Bagot, 1845." Being thus convinced that this ford was really at or near

the place called "Congo," where Commissioner Mitchell had crossed, and

found the Culgoa, at a distance of only seven miles north-west, I

determined to go forward, in the same direction, to that river, taking my

track of yesterday, which enabled me to avoid the broad lagoon.

On arriving at the "Cawan" we saw two natives fishing in a pond with hoop

nets, and Yuranigh went to ask them about the "Culgoa." He returned

accompanied by a tall athletic man; the other was this man's gin, who had

been fishing with him. There he had left her to take care of his nets,

and, without once looking at me or the party, proceeded to conduct us to

the Culgoa. I never saw a Spanish or Portuguese guide go with a

detachment half so willingly. Yuranigh and he scarcely understood a word

of what each other said, and yet the former had the address to overcome

the usual difficulties to intercourse between strange natives, and their

shyness to white men, and to induce this native thus to become our guide.

He took us to the Culgoa, which we made at about seven miles from the

Balonne, and I was so much pleased with the willing service and true

civility of this native, that I presented him with an iron tomahawk, and

I heard him twice ask Yuranigh if it really was meant for him to keep. He

then hastened back to his gin, whom he had left five miles off. This

river presented as deep a section as, but a narrower bed than, the one we

had just left. It had all the characteristics, however, of a principal

river, and really looked more important than the Barwan, except that its

waters were not then fluent. Gigantic blue gum trees overhang the banks,

and the Mimosa grew near the bed of the current. I should say that these

and much sand were the chief characteristics of the Culgoa. There were no

recent marks of natives' fires, and I was informed that they did not much

frequent that part of the river. The grass along the banks was very

luxuriant. Latitude 28° 31' 19" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 39°; at

noon, 75°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb, 46°. The height of

this camp above the level of the sea, being forty feet above the bed of

the river, 543 feet; from the mean of four observations.

3RD APRIL.--The section of this river being forty feet deep, and the

banks in general steep, the work necessary to render it passable to our

heavy drays could not be accomplished yesterday afternoon. This day,

however, our camp was established on the right bank of the Culgoa.

Thermometer at sunrise, 35°; at noon, 80°.; at 4 P.M., 77°; at 9, 49°;

and with wet bulb, 46°.

4TH APRIL.--We were now to proceed along the right bank of the Culgoa

upwards to the United Balonne, and thence to continue ascending along the

right bank of that river also, as far as the direction was favourable to

our progress northward. This remained to be ascertained in exploring that

river upwards. In gaining the right bank of the Culgoa, we had crossed

the vast basin of clay extending from the Bogan on the south, to this

river on the north, and westward to New Year's Range and Fort Bourke.

That country was liable to be rendered quite impassable, had the rains

set in. But even in such seasons we could still travel over the dry, firm

ground bounding this basin of clay on the northward, as the left bank of

the Bogan was also passable, however rainy the season, indeed more

conveniently then than during a dry one. Rain, if it had fallen at this

time, had greatly facilitated our exploration of the northern interior;

but these rivers we had reached would supply us with water for some

degrees to the northward, as I had been informed by the Commissioner of

the district, and in our progress so far, I hoped we should arrive at a

better watered country.

Taking a northerly course, we traversed fine grassy land, on which grew

luxuriantly the ACACIA PENDULA and other shrubs, that reminded us of the

banks of the Bogan, to which country we found here the exact counterpart,

only that this was better watered. The course of the Culgoa was more

easterly than I had calculated on, for, after going six miles northward,

I had to travel at least as many eastward before I again found the river.

We encamped on the acute north-western angle of an anabranch biting into

the firm soil, and it was evident that we had reached the Balonne Major,

or that part above the separation of the Culgoa from the Minor Balonne,

both of which we had already crossed, and which ran thus, as from our

camp the lines of trees along each of the minor channels were distinctly

visible.

The character of these rivers had been described to me by Commissioner

Mitchell, the discoverer thereof. It was late before the drays came in,

and Mr. Kennedy was led into the camp quite blind, having been suddenly

attacked with purulent ophthalmia, when engaged in the survey of our

route, about four miles from the camp. The heat had somewhat abated, but

still this complaint, which we had attributed to it, had lately affected

many of the party suddenly, as in the case of Mr. Kennedy. Latitude, 28°

27' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P.M., 88°; at

9, 53°; with wet bulb, 47°.

5TH APRIL.--The party halted, and I took a ride to explore the course of

the river, proceeding first northward. In that direction I came upon an

angle of the Balonne, at about three miles from the camp. Beyond, after

passing through much ACACIA PENDULA, I crossed a small plain, bounded by

a Casuarina scrub. Partly to ascertain its extent and character, and

partly in the hope of falling in with the river beyond, I entered it. I

found this scrub full of holes, that obliged me to pursue a very tortuous

course, impeded as I was too by the rugged stems and branches. I got

through it, only after contending with these impediments for three miles.

The country beyond it looked not at all like that back from the river,

and I turned to the N.E., pursuing that course some miles; then eastward

two miles, and next two miles to the S.E., still without finding any

river; but, on the contrary, scrub in every direction. The sun was

declining, and I turned at last to the S.W., and in that direction

reached an extensive open forest, beyond which I saw at length the river

line of trees. I continued to ride S.S.W., and finally south, until I saw

our cattle grazing, and the tents, without having regained first, as I

wished, my outward track. On the bank of the Balonne we found an

apparently new species of ANDROPOGON with loose thin panicles of purplish

flowers, and in the scrub I passed through, in my ride, I found a

CASUARINA, indeterminable in the absence of flowers or fruit. It produces

a gall as large as a hazel nut. Thermometer at sunrise, 37°; at noon,

90°; at 4 P.M., 94°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 53°.

6TH APRIL.--Mr. Kennedy's eyes being still very bad, I could not proceed,

as the survey of our route was very important, in order to keep our

account of longitude correctly. The necks of the cattle were much galled,

and I therefore the more willingly halted another day. It was not without

some impatience, however, that I did so, as we were approaching a point

whence I could set out with horses to the north-west, and leave the

cattle to refresh in a depôt on this fine river, which afforded an

excellent base for our exploratory operations, in the wholly unknown

regions immediately beyond it. This line of exploration I had anxiously

wished to pursue in 1831, when obliged to return from the Karaula or

Upper Barwan; and whatever had since been ascertained about that part of

the interior, confirmed me the more in my first opinion as to the

eligibility of that direction. It had occurred to me, on crossing the

Culgoa, that by marking deeply on a tree, at each camp, a number of

reference, our survey might be more practically useful and available to

the colonists, as connecting so many particular localities therewith. I

therefore marked that No. I. in Roman numerals; this II., and I shall add

in this journal, at the end of the narrative of each day's proceedings,

whatever number or mark may be made to distinguish the place of

encampment described.

In the scrub near this, we observed an Acacia, apparently new, a

broadleaved, white-looking wattle. There was also a branching Composite,

which Sir W. Hooker has determined to be a very distinct and undoubted

species of FLAVERIA of which all the other species are natives of the New

World.[*] The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was also found here growing on EXOCARPUS

APHYLLA of Brown; it was found by Allan Cunningham and Frazer on

Liverpool Plains, also, at Swan River. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at

noon, 95°; at 4 P.M., 96°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 57°. Height above

the sea, 497 feet.

[* FLAVERIA AUSTRALASICA (Hook. MSS.) foliis lineari-lanceolatis

integerrimis basi dilatatis, capitulis densissime globoso-fasciculatis,

fasciculis subinvolucratis, bracteis exterioribus praecipue fasciculos

superantibus omnibus late amplexantibus.]

7TH APRIL.--When all were preparing to set off early this morning, I was

informed that two bullocks were missing, and a third fast in the mud on

the river bank. The two stray animals were soon found; but it was

impossible to bring on the other in the mud, for he was blown, from

having drunk too much water, after over-eating himself with grass. Our

journey was continued round one angle of the river in my horse's track.

Afterwards turning to the N. E., we crossed two miles of open forest

land, where the grass was good, and having the river in sight. At length,

even on an easterly course we could not keep it longer in view, but got

involved in a scrub on soft red sand. Emerging from this on a course of

E. S. E., we again got upon open ground, and soon saw the majestic trees

of the river in a line circling round to the northward. Coming upon it at

an angle where scrubs of rosewood and ACACIA PENDULA crowned the slopes,

we encamped on a beautiful spot. The river was magnificent, presenting a

body of water of such breadth, as I had only seen in one other river of

Australia, and the banks were grassy to the water's edge.

This day, "Jemmy," a young native whom we had seen on the Minor Balonne,

came to our camp with another youth, and the voices of a tribe were heard

in the woods. As Jemmy had not kept his word formerly, having left us

suddenly, and was evidently a scamp, I peremptorily ordered him away. I

had heard of his having brought gins to my camp at night on the former

occasion, and he was very likely to be the cause of mischief, and could

not, or at least, would not, render us any service. We desired no further

intercourse, at that time, with the natives, as those with us did not

understand their language. The misfortunes of Mr. Finch arose through

that sort of intercourse with his men, and had arrested my journey

fifteen years ago, when I had advanced to within forty miles of this

camp, intent on those discoveries I hoped at length to make even now. I

had good reason, therefore, to keep the natives at a distance here, at a

time, too, when the bodies of six white men were said to be still

uninterred in this neighbourhood. A species of CYPERUS with panicled

globular heads of flowers was found here in the sloping bank.

Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 P. M. 97°; at 9, 69°;--

with wet bulb 57°. Height above the sea 634 feet. Latitude 28° 23' 59" S.

(Camp III.)

8TH APRIL.--We continued our journey nearly northward, keeping the river

woods in sight, as much as the country permitted. An arm or anabranch, at

first containing much water, and coming from the north, was on our right

for some miles. In following it, our natives found the tracks of three

horses, one only having had shoes on, and two foals, as if proceeding

first towards our camp, then returning. The branch from the river became

dry and sandy, but still we followed its course. We saw about a mile to

the eastward, beyond this dry channel, a splendid sheet of water on a

level with the general surface, and having extensive tracts of emerald

green vegetation about it. The dry channel obliged me to make a longer

journey than I had intended. At length, on finding the requisite water in

its bed, I encamped. This was near a pond, on whose sandy margin we saw

still the tracks of the three horses that had been there to drink. The

scrubs came close to the river with intervals of grassy plain. The ACACIA

PENDULA, and its concomitant shrubs, the SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, and others,

gave beauty to the scenery, and with abundance of water about, all hands

considered this a very fine country. At sunset, thunder-clouds gathered

in the S. W., and at about 7 P. M. the storm reached our camp,

accompanied by a sudden, very strong gale from the S. E. The lightning

was very vivid, and for half an hour it rained heavily. By 8 P. M. it was

over, and the serene sky admitted of an observation of Regulus, by which

the latitude was found to be 28° 17' 8" S. (No. IV.) Thermometer at

sunrise, 61°; at noon, 91°; at 4 P. M. 94°; at 9, 66°;--with wet bulb

63°.

9TH APRIL.--The branches of the river, and flats of Polygonum, obliged me

to follow a N. W. course. I did so most willingly, as we had already got

further to the eastward than I wished. The arm of the river spread into a

broad swamp, in which two of the drays sank, the drivers having taken no

notice of a tree I had laid across the track, to show where the carts had

been backed out. I made them unload the drays and carry the loads to firm

ground. Keeping afterwards along the margin of this swamp for many miles,

I perceived abundance of water in it, and passed the burning fires of

natives, where their water kids and net gear hung on trees about. At

length, upon turning to the eastward, I came upon the main river, where

it formed a noble reach, fully 120 yards wide, and sweeping round

majestically from N. E. to S. E. We here encamped, after a long journey.

The banks were grassy to the water's edge. We saw large fishes in it;

ducks swam on it, and, at some distance, a pair of black swans. This

surpassed even the reach at camp III., and I must add, that such an

enormous body of permanent water could be seen nowhere else in New South

Wales save in the river Murray during its floods. The Anthistiria grew

abundantly where we encamped, which was in latitude, 28° 13' 34" S. and

marked V. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P. M., 97°; at

9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 62°.

10TH APRIL.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed small grassy plains,

fringed with rosewood and other acacias; but, in order to keep near the

river, I was soon obliged to turn more towards the east, as Callitris

scrubs were before me. In avoiding these, I again came upon the more open

and firm ground adjacent to the river, and saw its course in the line of

large Yarra trees, which always point out its banks with their white and

gnarled arms. I may here state that the scrubs generally consist of a

soft red sandy soil; the land near the river, of clay, which last is by

far the best of the two soils for crossing with wheel carriages; the soft

red sand being almost as formidable an impediment in some situations as

mud. At length, in travelling N. eastward, we came upon a spacious

lagoon, extending westward, and covered with ducks. Perceiving, by drift

marks, that it came from the West, I kept along its margin, following it

as it trended round to N. E., where we arrived at the main channel, about

that part whence the waters of the lagoon emanate during high floods.

That lagoon presented an excellent place for a cattle-station. Water

could never fail, as the main stream was at hand, if even the lagoon

dried up, which seemed not at all likely. PSORALEA ERIANTHA was abundant

in the bed of the river, along with INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA, and CROTALARIA

MITCHELLII.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 99°; at 4 P. M.,

97° at 9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 58°.

[* C. MITCHELLII (Benth. MS.) erecta, ramulis flavescenti-tomentosis,

stipulis parvis subulatis, foliis ovali-ellipticis obtusis retusisve basi

angustatis supra glabris subtus calycibusque subsericeo-

pubescentitomentosis, bracteolis in pedicello brevissimo minutis

setaceis, legumine sessili glabro. Allied to C. RETUSA and SERICEA, but

flowers much smaller, in short dense spikes. It agrees in most respects

with the short character of C. NOVOE HOLLANDIOE, etc., but the leaf is

not articulated on the footstalk, and the stipules exist.]

11TH APRIL.--Proceeding due north we had the river close on our right

hand, when two miles on. After making a slight detour to avoid a gully

falling into it, we continued the same course over open forest land, and,

at length, saw an immense sheet of water before us, with islands in it.

This was also a lagoon supplied by floods in the Balonne. It was covered

with ducks, pelicans, etc. I called it Lake Parachute, no natives being

near to give me their name for it. I must here add that the true

aboriginal name is not Baloon, however, but Balonne, and this I the more

readily adopt to avoid the introduction of a name so inappropriate

amongst rivers. I was obliged to turn this lagoon, by moving some way

about to my right, for it sent forth a deep arm to the S. W. which lay

across my intended route. Continuing to travel northward, we arrived upon

the banks of a lagoon, where they resembled those of the main channel,

having trees of the same kind and fully as large. The breadth was very

uniform, and as great as that of the river, so that it seemed this had

once been the bed of the Balonne. We crossed it at a dry part of the

swamp, the waters extending and increasing in it to the eastward. In the

opposite direction it was equally uniform and continuous, but apparently

dry. On crossing this old channel, I turned sharply to the N. E., aware

that it is usually at acute angles in a river's course that such

overflowings break out. I found it necessary in the present case to turn

eastward, and even to the southward of east before I could find the river

again. At length we came upon the channel divided amongst ridges of sand,

where the waters took a sharp turn and broke thus into separate currents.

I was now very desirous to select a camp where the cattle might remain to

rest and refresh while I proceeded with a small party to the N. W. This

place did not please me, having been too scrubby, the water not well

tasted, and the grass dry, therefore liable to be set on fire by the

natives, or by accident. A bulbous species of CYPERUS grew on the bank of

the Balonne, and in the river we found the common European reed, ARUNDO

PHRAGMITES: a Loranthus allied to L. LINEARIFOLIUS, but with broader

leaves, grew on some of the trees, and we saw a fine new species of

ADRIANIA.[*] (No. VII.) Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 102°; at 4

P. M., 104°; at 9, 69°; with wet bulb, 62°. Average height above the sea,

of camps V. VI. and VII., 559 feet.

[* A. HETEROPHYLLA (Hooker MSS.) foliis ovato-acuminatis grosse

sinuatoserratis integris cordatisve trifidis, utrinque bracteisque

glaberrimis.]

12TH APRIL.--I accordingly put the party in motion at an early hour, and

soon came upon the river, where it formed a noble reach of water and came

from the westward, a new direction, which, with the sand that had for

some days appeared in shallow parts of its bed, raised my hopes that this

river might be found to come from the north-west, a direction it

maintained for five miles. The breadth was uniform, and the vast body of

water was a most cheering sight. The banks were 120 yards apart, the

course in general very straight, contributing much to the perspective of

the scenery upon it. At one turn, denuded rocks appeared in its bed,

consisting of ironstone in a whitish cement or matrix, which might have

been decomposed felspar. I at length arrived at a natural bridge of the

same sort of rock, affording easy and permanent access to the opposite

bank, and at once selected the spot for a dépôt camp, which we

established on a fine position commanding long vistas both up and down

the river. It was, in fact, a tête-de-pont overlooking the rocky passage

which connected the grass on both sides. This was No. VIII., and in

latitude 28° 1' 37''. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4

P. M., 101°; at 9, 74°;--with wet bulb, 64°.

13TH APRIL.--Here I could leave the jaded cattle to refresh, while, with

a small party on horse-back, I could ascertain the farther course of the

river, and explore the country to the north-west where centred all my

hopes of discovery. I set on foot various preparations, such as the

stuffing of saddles, shoeing of horses, drying of mutton, and, first of

all in importance, though last likely to be accomplished, the making a

pair of new wheels for a cart to carry water. Thermometer, at sunrise,

47°; at noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 67°;--with wet bulb, 62°.

15TH APRIL.--This day I sent Mr. Kennedy to examine the country in the

direction of 331½°, my intended route, and he returned about 10 P. M.,

having seen what he considered indications of the river on his right when

about twelve miles from the camp, and plains to the left. Upon the whole,

I resolved, from what he said of the scrubs he had met with, to travel

north-west, that direction being perpendicular to the general course of

this river, and therefore the most likely to lead the soonest to higher

ground. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P. M., 103°; at

9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 67°.

16TH APRIL.--In order better to contend with the difficulty of wanting

water, and be better prepared for it, I formed my party rather of

infantry than cavalry, taking only two horses, drawing a cart loaded

chiefly with water, and six trusty men, almost all old soldiers. We were

thus prepared to pass several nights without requiring other water than

that we carried with us. I hoped thus to be enabled to penetrate the

scrubs, and reach, and perhaps cross, the higher land bounding this great

basin. Our first day's progress, being rather experimental, did not

extend above ten miles. I had been obliged to send back the shaft horse,

and exchange him for a better, as our load of water was heavy. The day

was very sultry. Thermometer 105° Fahrenheit, in the shade. We had passed

over ground more open than I expected, but by no means clear of scrubs.

Thermometer, at sunrise, 64°; at 4 P. M., 105°; at 9, 71°;--with wet

bulb, 67°.

17TH APRIL.--The messenger returned early with two horses, one being my

own second charger, which I put as leader to the cart. We then got

forward on foot as fast as the men could walk, or rather as fast as they

could clear a way for the cart. We passed through much scrub, but none

was of the very worst sort. The natives' marks on trees were numerous,

and the ground seemed at first to fall westward as to some water-course;

and, after travelling about five miles, there appeared a similar

indication of water to the eastward of our route. At one place even the

white-barked gum trees appeared; but, although they had the character of

river trees, we found they grew on an elevated piece of clay soil. After

completing about ten miles, I halted for two hours to rest the horses,

where there was a patch of good grass, and we gave them some water from

our stock. The mercurial column afforded no indication that we were at

all higher than our camp overlooking the river, and it seemed, therefore,

not improbable that we might meet with some other channel or branch of

that prolific river. After resting two hours we continued, passing

through woods partly of open forest trees, and partly composed of scrub.

Towards the end of our day's journey, we crossed land covered with good

grass, and having only large trees on it, so thinly strewed as to be of

the character of the most open kind of forest land. Saw thereon some very

large kangaroos, and throughout the day we had found their tracks

numerous. We finally set up our bivouac a little before sunset, on a

grassy spot surrounded by scrub. In this scrub I found the CLEOME FLAVA

of Banks, and the strong-smelling AMBRINA CARINATA. A very remarkable

whiteness appeared on the leaves of the EUCALYPTUS POPULIFOLIUS, which,

on very close examination, appeared to be the work of an insect.[*] On

the plains the SALSOLA AUSTRALIS formed a round bush, which, when loose

from its very slight root, was liable to be blown about. Thermometer at

sunrise, 71°; at 9 P. M, 68°;--with wet bulb, 64°.

[* The following letter from Mr. Westwood to Dr. Lindley relates to

specimens of this brought to England:--

"I am sorry that the state of the specimens from Sir Thomas Mitchell (or

rather, I should say, the time when they were gathered) does not allow me

to say much about the insect by which they are formed. It is an extremely

beautiful production, quite unlike any thing I have yet seen, and is, I

have no doubt, the scale of a coccus. It is of a very peculiar form,

resembling a very delicate, broad, and flattened valve of a bi-valve

shell, such as the genus Iridina, the part where the hinge is being a

little produced and raised, and forming the cover of the coccus which

secretes the beautiful material just in the same unexplained way as the

scale insects form the slender attenuated scales beneath which they are

born. I could not discover any insect beneath the specimens of Sir Thomas

Mitchell's production in a state sufficient to determine what it really

is, as I only found one or two exceedingly minute atoms of shrivelled up

insects. It is extremely brittle, and looks more like dried, white,

frothed sugar than any thing else."]

18TH APRIL.--A pigeon had flown last evening over our camp in a N. N. E.

direction, and as the ground sloped that way, and the men believed that

water was there, I rode this morning in that direction, leaving the other

horses to feed in the meantime. At two miles from our bivouac I found

some hollows in a scrub where the surface consisted of clay, and which

evidently at some seasons contained water, although they were then dry.

Polygonum grew around them, and I doubt not that after a fall of rain

water would remain there some time. On riding two miles beyond, in the

same direction, I found open forest land only. The country was well

covered with good grass, very open, yet finely wooded. We again proceeded

north-west over some fine forest land. The soil was, however, only soft

red sand, and made it very heavy work for our horses drawing the

watercart.

On passing through a Casuarina scrub, we entered upon a different kind of

country as to wood and grass, the soil being much the same, or still more

loose and sandy. The surface bore a sterile heathy appearance, and the

trees consisted chiefly of a stunted box, growing but thinly. Instead of

grass, black, half-burnt roots of a wiry plant appeared, which I

afterwards found in flower (SEE INFRÀ), and one small, shrubby, brown

bush, very much resembling heath; apparently a Chenopod with heathlike

leaves, and globular hairy heads of flowers. The roots of the

firstmentioned plant presented much obstruction to our cart-wheels in

passing over the soft sand. As I stood awaiting the cart's arrival, some

birds drew my attention, as I perceived I had attracted theirs. They

descended to the lowest branches of the tree in whose shade I stood, and

seemed to regard my horse with curiosity. On my imitating their chirp one

fluttered down, and attempted to alight on my horse's ears. On my

whistling to them, one whistled some beautifully varied notes, as soft as

those of an octave flute, although their common chirp was harsh and

dissonant. The male and female seemed to have very different plumage,

especially about the head; that on the one having the varying tint of the

Rifle bird, the head of the other more resembling in colour, that of the

DACELO GIGANTEUS. They were about the size of a thrush, and seemed the

sole residents of that particular spot, and I had not seen them

elsewhere. The carts came slowly forward, the horses being much

distressed. I continued to ride some miles ahead, and passed through a

scrub in a clay hollow, to which succeeded another open forest country

with more of the soft red sand. The people with the cart could not

overtake me, and I returned. Meeting them at a rather bad place, I

determined to encamp at some patches of grassy ground somewhat out of our

line, in latitude, 27° 43' S. It is remarkable that, according to the

barometer, we had not ascended higher than our depôt camp on the river,

at a distance of nearly forty miles from it. I had just quitted my

horse's back, and had resolved to return, when two horsemen were seen

approaching along our track. They were two of our party come from the

depôt to bring me a despatch, which had been forwarded by Commissioner

Wright, communicating the news of Dr. Leichardt's return from Port

Essington, and enclosing the Gazette with his own account of his journey.

Thus it became known to us that we could no longer hope to be the first

to reach the shores of the Indian Ocean by land. Thermometer, at sunrise,

62°; at 4 P. M., 93°; at 9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 64°.

19TH APRIL,--I left the men with the cart, to follow while I rode forward

along its track, and sat down to peruse the newspapers sent me, until the

cart overtook me in the evening, the horses being quite exhausted by the

heat and the heavy sand. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 86°; at

9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 59°.

20TH APRIL.--The men who brought the despatches yesterday having been

ordered to bring fresh horses this day from the depôt, I sent our tired

animals on thither at once, as we could give them but a limited quantity

of water. I rode forward also to the camp, and met the fresh horses about

half-way. I immediately ordered the repair of the wheels of another light

cart, determined to lose no time in exploring a passage towards the head

of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 95; at 4 P. M.,

93°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 58°.

21ST APRIL.--The cart came in about 9 A. M. The morning was cloudy, for

the first time this month, and a slight shower fell. Had three or four

days' rain fallen at that time, it would have enabled me to have explored

by much less circuitous routes, than along the bank of this great river,

the country to the north-west. In this case, the tour from which I had

just returned might have been continued, as I wished and intended, had it

been possible to find water, to the mountains or higher ground, whatever

it might be that formed the limits to this basin on that side.

Thermometer, at sunrise, 65°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P. M., 77°; at 9, 60°;

--with wet bulb, 53°.

22D APRIL.--The clouds continued to lower, and a great change in the

temperature accompanied this visible change in the sky, but the mercurial

column remained uncommonly steady. Arrangements for a concentrated party

engrossed my attention so fully this day, with the insertion also of our

late work on the general map, that even the newspapers from the colony

lay unread. Mr. Kennedy took a ride across the river in a S. S. E.

direction, and found a fine grazing country with open forest, as far as

he went, which was about twelve miles. On the banks of the Balonne,

during my absence, they had found, besides a small bearded CYPERUS, a new

creeping PSORALEA [*], and a new species of Acacia, which Mr. Bentham has

named A. VARIANS.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 41°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P.

M., 77°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 56°. Mean elevation of this camp

above the level of the sea, being 50 feet above the river, 623 feet.

[* P. ERIANTHA (Benth. MS.) prostrata, canescenti-pubescens, foliis

pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis ovatis oblongisve dentatis, pedunculis

elongatis multifloris, floribus inferioribus remotis superioribus

approximatis, calycibus pube molli albida dense tomentosis, legumine

molliter villoso.]

[* A. VARIANS (Benth. MS.) glabra, pallida v. glauca, ramulis

subangulatis, phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis v. inferioribus late

obovatis summisve linearibus, omnibus basi longe angustatis apice obtusis

v. oblique mucronatis subimmarginatis vix obscure glanduliferis

uninervibus tenuiter reticulato-penniveniis, capitulis sub 20-floris

solitariis subracemosis v. in racemos foliatos dispositis, calycibus

truncatis, legumine glabro crasso sublignoso. Very near A. SALICINA, and

possibly a mere variety; but the phyllodia are generally considerably

broader, and the inflorescence different.]