Chapter I.

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Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia

In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)

by

Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)

Surveyor-General of New South Wales

TO

THE HONOURABLE

THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS

OF THE

LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW SOUTH WALES,

THIS JOURNAL

OF

AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,

PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,

AND

UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,

IS

DEDICATED

BY

THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,

HUMBLE SERVANT,

T. L. MITCHELL

PREFACE.

"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the

most attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of

Australia. There the philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the

poet for original studies and ideas; the naturalist for additional

knowledge; and the historian might begin at a beginning. The traveller

there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples, or towers; but he

is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of healthful

progress and hope;--of a wonderful past, and of a promising future.

Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions

still unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now

that the rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most

deserving people on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved

by the Almighty for their use.

In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early

period between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known

to the ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:--

"Communemque priùs, ceu lumina solis et auras, Cautus humum longo

signavit limite mensor." [* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]

The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of

arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of

internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and

the north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the

last twenty years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to

bring under the notice of men of science some of the earth's productions

hitherto unknown. He cannot sufficiently express his sense of obligation

in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and

Professor De Vriese, for supplying the botanical matter and notes

contained in this volume, and thus contributing to the general stock of

human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that during the

long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a

register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst

of his important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison

of minute details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned.

The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in

its accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of

latitude; trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever

heights were available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route.

This route was connected, at its commencement and termination, with the

trigonometrical survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a

survey extending two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of

his intersections with that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could

not but be very satisfactory to the author.

The geological specimens collected during this journey have been

deposited in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on

the maps by the numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be

available to geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science,

the fossils now brought from these remote regions will be accessible at

any future time, and something known of the geology as well as of the

geography of the interior. As Professor Forbes most readily undertook to

describe the freshwater shells after the work had passed through the

press, that portion of the collection also has thus been brought under

the notice of geologists.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

GENERAL MAP

Objects of the expedition.--Unexpected delay--by reference to Lord

Stanley.--List of the Party.--Departure from Buree.--Sheep stations.--

Scattered population.--Passage through Hervey's Range.--Encroachment of

sheep on cattle runs.--A tea-totaller.--Meet an old acquaintance.--

Sulphureous springs.--Currandong--Necessity for damming up the Bogan.

Leave Bultje's country.--Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.--Line between

the squatters and the wild natives.--Velocity of the Bogan.--Supply of

young bullocks.--Richard Cunningham--Young cattle troublesome.--A night

without water.--Distress from heat and thirst.--Excessive heat.--Reunion

of the party.--Melancholy fate of the Bogan tribe.--Interesting plants

discovered.--Encampment at Mudaà.--Carry water forward.--Arrive at

Daròbal.--Nyingan.--Water at Canbelègo.--Discovery of a lagoon.--Encamp

near Canbelègo. Explore the Bogan in search of water.--Long ride.--Quit

the Bogan.--Party attacked with ophthalmia

CHAPTER II.

MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE

Move to the ponds of Cannonbà.--Set up our bivouac.--Hot wind.--Piper's

intention to quit the party.--Piper sent to Bathurst.--Change of

weather.--A day of rain.--Mr. Kennedy returns.--Salt made from the salt

plant.--Reconnoitre Duck Creek.--Ophthalmia still troublesome.--Approach

of a flood announced.--It arrives in clear moonlight.--(Frontispiece.)--

Marshes of the Macquarie.--Difficulty of watering cattle.--(Plate 2. p.

61.) A new guide.--Cattle astray.--Yulliyally.--Docility of the

Aborigines.--Water insufficient for cattle.--Want of water.--Small ponds

destroyed by cattle.--At last find abundance.--Aboriginal preferable to

modern names.--Cattle again astray--and delay the journey.--Junction of

the Macquarie and Bàrwan.--The Darling as at present, and formerly.--

Admirable distribution of water. The ford at Wyàbry.--The party crosses

the Darling

CHAPTER III.

MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,--

SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.

Plains and low hills.--The Caràwy ponds.--Delayed by weak cattle.--The

Narran.--Arrived at--encamp by:--Narran swamp.--A bridge required.--

During the delay of drays take a ride forward.--Rich pastures on the

Narran.--New plants.--Arrival of drays.--Bridge laid down for their

passage.--The party fords the Narran.--Advances but slowly.--Low hills

examined.--Good grassy country.--Food of the natives.--Rising ground west

of the river.--Ride up.--Abodes and food of natives.--Rich grass.--Parley

with a native.--Gravelly ridges.--Two natives conduct us to the river.--

Approach the assembled natives.--Interview with the tribes.--Cordial

reception.--Cross the Balonne.--Reach the Culgòa.--Cross that river.--

Route beyond.--The Upper Balonne.--Explore its course.--Numerals cut on

trees.--A native scamp.--Fine country.--Splendid reaches of the river

(Plate 3. page 119.)--Lagoons near it.--Lake Parachute.--Seek a

position--for a depôt camp.--Ride to the north-west.--Character of the

country.--Search for water. Uncommon birds.--Return to the camp.--New

Acacia

CHAPTER IV.

MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANÒA--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE

PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.

Advance with a light party.--Fine river scenery.--Junction of rivers.--

Trace one up, then cross to the other.--Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore

it.--Fine country for grazing.--Turanimga lagoon.--Trace up a small

tributary.--Mountains discovered.--Camp visited by three

natives.--"Cogoon" the name of tributary.--Charms of the Australian

climate.--Mount Minute.--Extreme cold.--Traces of high floods in the

Cnogoa.---Mount Inviting.--Mount Abundance.--Ascend that mountain.--

Fitzroy Downs.--The Bottle Tree, or DELABECHEA.--Frosty Creek.--Travel

due north over open downs.--Advantages of mountains.--Ascend one.--Mount

Bingo.--Thenod Tagando tribe.--The party advances to the Amby--followed

by the tribe.--How we got rid of them.--Enter the country through the

pass.--Find one pond.--A large river discovered.--Position taken up on

its banks.--There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.--Explore to the north-

west.--Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.--Interior country

visited.--View of the western interior.--Its character.--Determine to

trace the river upwards.--Ascend Mount Kennedy.--Extensive prospect.--

Native visit during my absence.--Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.--The

Tagando tribe again.--Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.--Prepare to advance

again with a light party.--Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy

CHAPTER V.

MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE,

AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.

My departure.--A team of bullocks sent back for.--Good grassy country.--

Ride north-west during rain.--Hostile natives menace our camp.--The party

crosses Possession Creek.--A small river found.--Another ride to the

north-west.--Banks of the little river.--Mount Owen seen.--Travel towards

it.--Flank movement to the Maranòa for water.--None found in its bed.--

View from Mount Owen.--Names of localities on the map.--Scarcity of water

impedes our progress.--Water found in rocky gullies.--Excursion

northward.--Mount Aquarius.--View from northern summit of Mount Owen.--

Progress through a broken country.--Night without water.--Another route

explored amongst the gullies.--Plants found near Mount Owen.--Route for

the advance of the carts.--View of mountains--from Mount P. P. King.--

View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.--Mount Faraday.--

Strange Hakea.--A running stream discovered.--Return towards the camp.--

The party with the carts advances.--(Pyramids, Plate IV., page 222.)--

Course of the new found river.--New plants.--A large lake receives the

river.--(Plate V., John Martin's Range, page 225.)--The outlet dry.--

Enter a scrub.--Return to the Salvator.--Discovery of the Claude.--Rich

soil on the downs.--The party moves to the Claude.--Cross that river.

Fossil wood.--Again shut up in a rocky country.--Slow progress in a

gully.--Balmy Creek.--New plants.--Emerge from the ravines.--Tower

Almond.--(Pl. 6. page 237.)--View from Mount Kilsyth.--View from Mount

Mudge.--Two natives met.--Remarkable tree

CHAPTER VI.

MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,

Head of another river.--Water again scarce.--Abundance found.--Climate

and country--under the Tropic Line.--Plants.--Peculiar character of the

water-course.--One cause of open spaces in the woods.--New plants.--

Causes of the outspread of channel.--Plains of wild indigo.--Large river

channel from the south.--Cross.--Novelties beyond.--The river much

increased.--Long journey through scrub.--New plants.--Journey along the

river bank.--Character of this river.--Distant prospect.--No water.--

Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach the river by moonlight.--Large

lagoons.--New tributary--from the S. W.--Excursion to the N. W.--Night

without water.--Interview with natives.--Camp visited by natives during

my absence.--An affair at the camp.--The party crosses the river.--

Conclusions.--The party returns.--Tilled ground of the natives.--The

shepherd astray.--Singular phenomenon.--Extraordinary vegetable

production.--Heavy rain comes on.--Probability of finding a river.--

Singular meteor.--Intertropical temperature.--Effects of the rain.--

Recross the Tropic.--Regain the higher land.--Remarkable

tree.--(Hakea?)--Dip of the strata.--Character of the Belyando.--How to

explore a river in brigalow.--A more direct way homewards.--Successful

passage with carts and drays.--Open downs.--Fossil wood.--Recross the

Claude.--Mantuan downs.--Natives of the Salvator.--Position taken up for

a depôt camp.--Interesting plants.--(View on the Salvator, Pl. 8.)

CHAPTER VII.

(Having reference to Map V., Page 189.)

Preparations and departure.--Mount Pluto.--Route amongst the three

volcanic hills.--Interview with a female native.--Cross a range beyond.--

The Nive and the Nivelle.--Burning of grass by the natives.--Water found,

after a night of thirst.--Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.--

Morning view from a rock.--A new river followed down-over extensive open

downs.--Brigalow scrubs away from the river.--River much increased.--

Security from natives--Thoughts in these solitudes.--The downs and the

river.--An emu shot there.--A river joins from the east.--Structure of

native's huts.--Two separate channels unite.--The river well filled.--

Packhorse unserviceable.--Rare pigeon--numerous.--A wild tribe--

surprised at a lagoon.--Recross the river--and return homewards.--The

savage compared--with the civilized.--Hills in the S. W.--Short cut along

the left bank of the river.--Name it the Victoria.--Privations in

exploring.--Return to the Nive and Nivelle.--Gallant charge by a snake.--

Sources of the Salvator.--View from Mount Pluto.--Arrival at the camp of

the pyramids.--Rare and new plants collected there.--(View of Lindley's

Range, Pl. 9.)

CHAPTER VIII.

(Having reference to Map V., Page 189., and Map IV., Page 133.)

Fossils and plants.--A new genus.--LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.--Ascend Mount

Faraday.--Valley of the Warregò.--Meet an old native.--Return to the camp

over the gullies.--Encamp by the Maranòa.--The river found to be near our

former track--with water in abundance.--Loss of a horse.--Cattle

tracks.--Arrival at the camp of Mr. Kennedy.--Visits of the natives--

during our absence.--(Pl. 7. ABORIGINAL DANCE, page 358).--Plants

gathered at the depôt camp.--New plants.--Fossils at Mount Sowerby.--

Ascent of Mount Kennedy.--The party leaves the depôt camp following the

course of the Maranòa.--Discovery of a fine open country.--Numbered trees

at camps.--The country on the Maranòa.--Singular habits of a fish.--Name

of river obtained from good authority.--(Pl. 10. VIEW ON THE MARANÒA,

page 372).--The Acacia varians.--Water scarce again.--Some at length

discovered by a dog.--Country between the two routes.--Plants.--Arrive at

the Balonne.--Return to St. George's Bridge

CHAPTER IX.

(Having reference to Map III., Page 81.)

(VIEW OF ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, Pl. 11)--Despatches sent forward.--

Acquisitions during the delay.--Mr. Kennedy's return and report.--The

party crosses the Balonne.--Arrives at the Mooni.--A white woman.--Cattle

stations.--Heavy rain.--The country impassable.--Camp removed to a

hill.--Dam thrown up.--The waters subside.--The party proceeds.--Arrival

at the Barwan.--A flood.--(Pl. 12. LAST USE OF THE BOATS, page 395).--

Cross the Màal, also in boats.--Country between the rivers.--Mount

Riddell recognised.--The Gwydir crossed.--Termination of the journey.--A

stockman.--Night on the open plain.--The Nammoy.--First news

CHAPTER X.

Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.--Of the

Aborigines.--Simple conditions of human existence.--Grass, fire,

kangaroos, and men.--Case of the aboriginal natives.--My native guides.--

Experiment worth trying.--Of the Convicts.--Character of the men of the

party.--Of convicts generally.--Of the Colony of New South Wales,--

capabilities of soil and climate.--Progress of colonization,--Division

and appropriation of the territory.--Capricornia and Austral-india

MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA Page 430

APPENDIX.

The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.--

Letter, dated 28th October, 1830

Systematical List of Plants

ILLUSTRATIONS.

[Not included in the text-file version of this eBook]

Flood coming down the Macquarie (pl. 1. p. 58) Map I. The Indian

Archipelago Portrait of Bultje Remnant of the Bogan tribe Map II. The

Rivers Bogan and Macquarie First use of the boats (pl. 2) Map III. The

Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also

the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon Separation of the Balonne

into the Culgoa, Narran, &c. The River Balonne, 7th April (pl. 3) Map IV.

Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to St. George's Bridge The

Bottle tree, DELABECHEA The black awaiting the white Map V. The country

and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the

River Victoria Tree without branches The Pyramids (pl. 4) Martin's Range

(pl. 5) Tower Almond (pl. 6) Map VI. The River Belyando Missile club of

natives of Central Australia Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?) The River

Salvator, 5th Sept. (pl. 8) Lindley's Range (pl. 9) Old native female

Aboriginal dance (pl. 7) View on the River Maranòa (pl. 10) Acacia

VARIANS St. Georgia's Bridge (pl. 11) Last use of the boats (pl. 12) Map

VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries

* * * * *

JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.

Chapter I.

OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.--IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD

STANLEY.--LIST OF THE PARTY.--DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.--SCATTERED

POPULATION.--IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.--A TEA-TOTALLER FROM SYDNEY.--A

SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.--MEET AN OLD

ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.--CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.--THE BOGAN RIVER.--

YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.--EXCESSIVE HEAT.--GREAT SCARCITY OF WATER.--

THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.--MELANCHOLY FATE OF THE

BOGAN TRIBE.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--CARRY WATER FORWARD.--

DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--DOGS DIE FROM

THIRST.--THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.--QUIT THE BOGAN, BY MOVING

TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ.--ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH THE PARTY.

The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my

first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always

entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii.

part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full

development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The same

direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the Royal

Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a committee of

the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most desirable to pursue

at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony from distress

found favour with the public.

At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich

islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the

industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail

themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,

"Which mock'd their scant manurings, and requir'd MORE HANDS THAN THEIRS

to prune their wanton growth."

The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward, "al

nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.]," seemed

to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the wayward

fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern extremity

of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis incognita."

The character of the interior of that country still remained unknown, the

largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere exploration, the

colonists of New South Wales might not have been very anxious just at

that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical knowledge could

be combined with that of exploring a route towards the nearest part of

the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait, it was easy to awaken

the attention of the Australian public to the importance of such an

enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount the Indian cavalry had

commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of Torres Straits had been

injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided by any overland route

from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria.

But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New

South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the

shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with England

by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by land, was

an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In short, the

commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the direct road

home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the discovery of a

good overland route between Sydney and the head of the Gulf of

Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be introduced

from that point to meet the English line at Singapore.

In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to

the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to

the settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-île forming the furthest

point of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was

therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that of

the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a considerable

river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria.

My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I

submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when

His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such

reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he

should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative

Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more money

than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards the expense

of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it. His

Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to

the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was

still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited

to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general

interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery,

which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and

despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription,

and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six persons

who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not been heard

of, and were supposed to have either perished or been destroyed by

natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from Port

Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published,

shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.]

The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated, favourable

to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still declined to

allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any reason for

keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it became known

in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed, with the express

sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring expedition from Adelaide

into the northern interior of Australia, and that he was actually then in

New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had expressed, in one of his early

despatches to the British Government, his readiness to encourage such an

undertaking as that, and stated that "no one came forward to claim the

honour of such an enterprise;" yet now that Lord Stanley had sanctioned

the plan of the Surveyor General, whose duty it was to survey the

country, he refused to allow this officer to proceed. The Legislative

Council, however, renewed the petition for this undertaking, to which the

Governor at length assented, in 1845; and the sum of 2000L. was

unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but with the clear

understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of the Surveyor

General should be adopted.

The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new. The

journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report that a

large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger,

accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine,

still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first

papers published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My

suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London

Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by a

map showing the line of exploration then recommended.

In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by

land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong

bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been

preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a

greater number of men, were considered objections; while many experienced

persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more enduring than

horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.] Eight

drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood: four

of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in

Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two

parts, on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party

moved off from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree.

I joined the party encamped at Buree on the 13th of December, having rode

there from Sydney in four and a half days, and on the following Monday,

15th of December, 1845, I put it in motion towards the interior. The

Exploring party now consisted of the following persons:--

SIR T. L. MITCHELL, Kt., Surveyor General, Chief of the Expedition.

EDMUND B. KENNEDY, Esq. Assistant Surveyor, Second in command. W.

STEPHENSON, M.R.C.S.L. Surgeon and Collector of objects of Natural

History. PETER M'AVOY, Mounted Videttes. Charles Niblett, William Graham,

ANTHONY BROWN, Tent-keeper. WILLIAM BALDOCK, In charge of the horses.

John Waugh Drysdale, Store-keeper. Allan Bond, Bullock-drivers. Edward

Taylor, William Bond, William Mortimer, George Allcot, John Slater,

Richard Horton, Felix Maguire, James Stephens, Carpenters. Job Stanley,

Edward Wilson, Blacksmith. George Fowkes, Shoemaker. John Douglas,

Barometer carrier. Isaac Reid, Sailor and Chainman. Andrew Higgs,

Chainman. William Hunter, With the horses. Thomas Smith, Patrick Travers,

Carter and Pioneer. Douglas Arnott, Shepherd and Butcher. Arthur Bristol,

Sailmaker and Sailor.

8 drays, drawn by 80 bullocks; 2 boats; 13 horses; 4 private do.; and 3

light carts, comprised the means of conveyance; and the party was

provided with provisions for a year:--250 sheep (to travel with the

party), constituting the chief part of the animal food. The rest

consisted of gelatine, and a small quantity of pork.

With the exception of a few whose names are printed in italics, the party

consisted of prisoners of the Crown in different stages of probation,

with whom the prospect of additional liberty was an incentive so

powerful, that no money payment was asked by them or expected, while,

from experience, I knew that for such an enterprise as this I could rely

on their zealous services. The patience and resolution of such men in the

face of difficulties, I had already witnessed; and I had hired three of

the old hands, in order the more readily to introduce my accustomed camp

arrangements. Volunteers of all classes had certainly come eagerly

forward, offering their gratuitous services on this expedition of

discovery; but discipline and implicit obedience were necessary in such a

party to ensure the objects in view, as well as its own preservation; and

it was not judged expedient, where some prisoners were indispensable as

mechanics, to mix with them men of a different class, over whom the same

kind of authority could not be exercised.

Following the same road by which I quitted Buree, in 1835, my former line

of route across Hervey's Range lay to the left. The party thus arrived at

Bramadura, a sheep station occupied by Mr. Boyd. It was on the same chain

of ponds crossed by me on the journey of 1835, and then named Dochendoras

Creek, but now known as the Mundadgery chain of ponds. These ponds had

been filled by heavy rains which fell on Tuesday the 9th December--the

day on which I left Sydney, where the weather had been clear and sultry.

A tornado or hurricane had, on the same day, levelled part of the forest

near this place, laying prostrate the largest trees, one side of which

was completely barked by the hailstones. Many branches of trees along the

line of route, showed that the wind had been very violent to a

considerable distance.

16TH DECEMBER.--Some of the bullocks missing: the party could not,

therefore, quit the camp until 11 o'clock. The passage of the bed of the

chain of ponds (which we travelled up) was frequently necessary, and

difficult for heavily laden drays, which I found ours were, owing,

chiefly to a superabundance of flour, above the quantity I intended to

have taken, but supplied to my party, and brought forty miles by my drays

before my arrival at the camp.

We halted at another sheep station of Mr. Boyd's. Here I perceived that

Horehound grew abundantly; and I was assured by Mr. Parkinson, a

gentleman in charge of these stations, that this plant springs up at all

sheep and cattle stations throughout the colony, a remarkable fact, which

may assist to explain another, namely, the appearance of the Couchgrass,

or Dog's-tooth-grass, wherever the white man sets his foot, although

previously unknown in these regions.

17TH DECEMBER.--Set off about 7 A.M. and travelled along a good road, for

about 6 miles. Then, at a sheep station, we crossed the chain of ponds,

following a road leading to Dr. Ramsay's head station, called

Balderudgery. Leaving that road, and, at 7 miles, taking to the left, we

finally encamped on Spring Creek, after a journey of about 9 miles. We

had passed over what I should have called a poor sort of country, but

everywhere it was taken up for sheep; and these looked fat; yet not a

blade of grass could be seen; and, but for the late timely supply of

rain, it had been in contemplation to withdraw these flocks to the

Macquarie.

Calling at a shepherd's hut to ask the way, an Irish woman appeared with

a child at her breast and another by her side: she was hut-keeper. She

had been there two years, and only complained that they had never been

able to get any potatoes to plant. She and her husband were about to

leave the place next day, and they seemed uncertain as to where they

should go. Two miles further on, a shoemaker came to the door of a hut,

and accompanied me to set me on the right road. I inquired how he found

work in these wild parts. He said, he could get plenty of work, but very

little money; that it was chiefly contract work he lived by: he supplied

sheep-owners with shoes for their men, at so much per pair. His

conversation was about the difficulty a poor man had in providing for his

family. He had once possessed about forty cows, which he had been obliged

to entrust to the care of another man, at 5S. per head. This man

neglected them: they were impounded and sold as unlicensed cattle under

the new regulations.

"So you saw no more of them?"

"Oh, yes, your honour, I saw some of them AFTER THEY HAD BEEN SOLD AT THE

POUND!--I wanted to have had something provided for a small family of

children, and if I had only had a few acres of ground, I could have kept

my cows."

This was merely a passing remark made with a laugh as we walked along,

for he was one of the race--

"Who march to death with military glee."

But the fate of a poor man's family was a serious subject: such was the

hopeless condition of a useful mechanic ready for work even in the

desolate forests skirting the haunts of the savage. So fares it with the

DISJECTA MEMBRA of towns and villages, when such arrangements are left to

the people themselves in a new colony.

18TH DECEMBER.--The party moved off about 7 A.M., and continued along a

tolerable road, crossing what shepherds called Seven Mile Creek, in which

there was some water; and a little further on we quitted the good beaten

road leading to Balderudgery, and followed one to the left, which brought

us to another sheep station on the same chain of ponds, three miles

higher up than Balderudgery. Having directed the party to encamp here, I

pursued the road south-westward along the chain of ponds, anxious to

ascertain whether I could in that direction pass easily to the westward

of Hervey's Range, and so fall into my former line of route to the Bogan.

At about five miles I found an excellent opening through which the road

passed on ground almost level. Having ascended a small eminence on the

right, I fell in with some natives with spears, who seemed to recognise

me, by pointing to my old line of route, and saying, "Majy Majy" (Major

Mitchell). I little thought then that this was already an outlying

picquet of the Bogan Blacks, sent forward to observe my party. The day

was hot, therm. 97° in the shade. The chain of ponds, there called "the

Little River," contained water in abundance, and was said to flow into

the Macquarie, in which case the Bogan can have but few sources in

Hervey's Range.

The station beside which we had encamped, comprised a stock yard, and had

been formerly a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kite. It was now a sheep

station of Dr. Ramsay's, and there was another sheep station a mile and a

half from it, along the road I had examined. Thus the country suitable

for either kind of stock is taken up by the gradual encroachment of sheep

on cattle runs, not properly such. This easily takes place--as where

sheep feed, cattle will not remain, and sheep will fatten where cattle

would lose flesh. Fortunately, however, for the holders of the latter

description of stock, there are limits to this kind of encroachment. The

plains to the westward of these ranges afford the most nutritive

pasturage in the world for cattle, and they are too flat and subject to

inundations to be desirable for sheep. A zone of country of this

description lies on the interior side of the ranges, as far as I have

examined them. It is watered by the sources of the rivers Goulburn,

Ovens, Murray, Murrumbidgee, Lachlan, Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh,

Nammoy, Peel, Gwydir, and Darling; on which rivers the runs will always

make cattle fat. There are two shrubs palpably salt, and, perhaps, there

is something salsolaceous in the herbage also on which cattle thrive so

well; and the open plains and muddy waterholes are their delight.

Excessive drought, however, may occasionally reduce the owners of such

stock to great extremities, and subject them to serious loss. The Acacia

pendula, a tree whose HABITAT is limited and remarkable, is much relished

by the cattle. It is found only in clay soils, on the borders of plains,

which are occasionally so saturated with water as to be quite impassable;

never on higher ground nor on any lower than that limited sort of

locality, in the neighbourhood of rivers which at some seasons overflow.

In such situations, even where grass seems very scarce, cattle get fat;

and it is a practice of stockmen to cut down the Acacia pendula (or Myall

trees, as they call them) for the cattle to feed on.

At this sheep station where we had encamped, I met with an individual who

had seen better days, and had lost his property amid the wreck of

colonial bankruptcies--a tea-totaller, with Pope's Essay on Man for his

consolation, in a bark hut. This "melancholy Jaques" lamented the state

of depravity to which the colony was reduced, and assured me that there

were shepherdesses in the bush! This startling fact should not be

startling, but for the disproportion of sexes, and the squatting system

which checks the spread of families. If pastoralisation were not one

thing, and colonisation another, the occupation of tending sheep should

be as fit and proper for women as for men. The pastoral life, so

favourable to love and the enjoyment of nature, has ever been a favourite

theme of the poet. Here it appears to be the antidote of all poetry and

propriety, only because man's better half is wanting. Under this

unfavourable aspect the white man first comes before the aboriginal

native; were the intruders accompanied by women and children, they could

not be half so unwelcome. One of the most striking differences between

squatting and settling in Australia consists in this. Indeed if it were

an object to uncivilise the human race, I know of no method more likely

to effect it than to isolate a man from the gentler sex and children;

remove afar off all courts of justice and means of redress of grievances,

all churches and schools, all shops where he can make use of money, then

place him in close contact with savages. "What better off am I than a

black native?" was the exclamation of a shepherd to me just before I

penned these remarks.

19TH DECEMBER.--The party moved along the road I had previously examined.

On passing through to the western side, I recognised the trees, plants,

and birds of the interior regions. Granitic hills appeared on each side,

and the sweet-scented Callitris grew around, with many a curious shrub

never seen to the eastward of these ranges. On descending, grassy

valleys, with gullies containing little or no water, reminded me of

former difficulties in the same vicinity, and it was not until we had

travelled upwards of sixteen miles that I could encamp near water. This

consisted of some very muddy holes of the Goobang Creek, on which I had

formerly been pleasantly encamped with Mr. Cunningham. [* See Vol. I. of

Three Expeditions, etc., page 171.] Two or three natives soon made their

appearance, one of whom I immediately recognised to be my old friend

Bultje, who had guided me from thence to the Bené Rocks, on my former

journey along the Bogan. He brought an offering of honey. Ten years had

elapsed since I formerly met the same native in the same valley, and time

had made no alteration in his appearance. With the same readiness to

forward my views that he formerly evinced, he informed me where the water

was to be found; and how I should travel so as to fall in with my former

route, by the least possible DÉTOUR. Mount Laidley bore 23° E. of N.

20TH DECEMBER.--This day I gave the cattle a rest, as the grass seemed

good, while I rode to look at my old line of marked trees. A cattle

station (of Mr. Kite) was within a mile and a half of our camp, and at

about three miles below it, I fell in with the former line. Where it

crossed the Goobang, a track still continued by them, but finally

diverged, leaving the line of marked trees, without the slightest trace

of the wheels or hoofs that had formerly passed by it. Reaching a hill

laid down on my former survey, and from which I recognised Mount Laidley,

I returned directly to the camp. We had encamped near those very springs

mentioned as seen on my former journey, but instead of being limpid and

surrounded by verdant grass, as they had been then, they were now trodden

by cattle into muddy holes, where the poor natives had been endeavouring

to protect a small portion from the cattle's feet, and keep it pure, by

laying over it trees they had cut down for the purpose. The change

produced in the aspect of this formerly happy secluded valley, by the

intrusion of cattle and the white man, was by no means favourable, and I

could easily conceive how I, had I been an aboriginal native, should have

felt and regretted that change. The springs which issue from the level

plains of clay, while the bed of the water-course some twenty feet lower

continues dry and dusty, are numerous. One had a strong taste of sulphur,

and might probably be as salubrious as other springs more celebrated.

They show that, in this country at least, the water-courses are not

supplied by springs, but depend wholly on heavy torrents of rain

descending from the mountains. Some holes in the bed of the Goobang Creek

did however retain some water which had fallen during the last rain. The

thermometer stood at 107° in the tent.

21ST DECEMBER.--Guided by my old friend Bultje, we pursued a straight

line of route through the forest to Currandong, which was half way to the

Bogan. We passed over a very open, gently undulating country, just

heading a gully called Brotherba--showing how well our guide knew the

country--and we reached Currandong at 2 o'clock. Here also were two

flocks belonging to Dr. Ramsay; Balderudgery, the head station, being

fifteen miles distant, by a mountain road through a gap. While travelling

this day, Corporal Graham overtook me with letters from Buree, and a cart

had also been sent after us by Mr. Barton with a small supply of corn.

That country is considered excellent as a fattening run for sheep; the

shepherd told me they there find a salt plant, which keeps them in

excellent condition and heart for feeding. The scarcity of water at some

seasons occasions a conversion here of cattle runs into sheep runs, and

VICE VERSÂ, a contingency which seems to render these lands of Hervey's

range of temporary and uncertain value.

22D DECEMBER.--Guided by Bultje we continued to follow down the little

chain of ponds which, as he said, led to the Bogan. The road was good--

the Currandong ponds running in a general direction about N. N. W. It was

the first of the sources of the Bogan we had reached. Crossing at length

to its left bank, near an old lambing station of Dr. Ramsay's, we further

on came to a large plain with the Yarra trees of the Bogan upon its

western skirts. Some large lagoons on the eastern side of the plains had

been filled by the late rains, and cattle lay beside them. We at length

arrived in sight of a cattle station of Mr. Templar's, called Ganànaguy,

and encamped on the margin of a plain opposite to it. The cattle here

looked very fat, and although the herd comprised about 2000 head, there

was abundance of grass. The Bogan thus first appeared on our left hand,

and must have its sources in the comparatively low hills, about the

country crossed by my former line of route, rather than in Hervey's or

Croker's ranges, as formerly supposed. The water in the ponds of the

Bogan seemed low.

This fine grazing country had been abandoned more than once from the

failure of the water, and yet these ponds seemed capable of holding an

almost inexhaustible supply. A single dam would have retained the water

for miles, the Bogan always flowing through clay in a bed of uniform

width and depth like a canal. No doubt a little art and labour would be

sufficient to render the land permanently habitable: but on an uncertain

tenure this remedy was not likely to be applied, and therefore the

sovereignty of art's dominion remained unasserted there. The incursions

of the savage, who is learning to "bide his time" on the Darling, are

greatly encouraged by the hardships of the colonists when water is

scarce; and I was shown where no less than 800 head of fat bullocks had

been run together by them when water was too abundant. Then horses cannot

travel, and cattle stick fast in the soft earth and are thus at the mercy

of the natives. The stone ovens, such as they prepare for cooking

kangaroos, had been used for the consumption of about twenty head of

cattle a day, by the wild tribes who had assembled from the Darling and

lower Bogan on that occasion. Thermometer in tent 109° at noon, wind

W.N.W.

23D DECEMBER.--We crossed the Bogan (flowing eastward) at Mr. Templar's

station at Ganànaguy, and the overseer most hospitably stood by the party

as it passed with a bucket of milk, of which he gave a drink to each of

the men. Bultje put us on the right road to the next nearest water-holes

(Mr. Gilmore's station), and having rendered me the service he promised,

I gave him the tomahawk, pipe, and two figs of tobacco promised him, and

also took a sketch of his singularly Socratic face. This native got a bad

name from various stockmen, as having been implicated in the murder of

Mr. Cunningham. Nothing could be more unfounded; and it must indeed

require in a man so situated the wisdom of a Socrates to maintain his

footing, or indeed his life, between the ignorant stockmen or shepherds

on one hand, and the savage tribes on the other. These latter savages

naturally regard those who are half civilised, in the same light as we

should look on deserters to the enemy, and are extremely hostile to them,

while perhaps even his very usefulness to our party had most unjustly

connected this native's name with the murder of one of our number. His

laconic manner and want of language would not admit of any clear

explanation of how much he had done to serve our race--and the

difficulties he had to encounter with his own; while the circumstance of

his having been met with at an interval of ten years in the same valley

in a domesticated state, if it did not establish any claim to the soil,

at least proved his strong attachment to it, and a settled disposition.

Much tact must be necessary on his part to avoid those savages coming by

stealth to carry off his gins; and to escape the wrath of white men, when

aroused by the aggressions of wild tribes to get up a sort of foray to

save or recover their own. How Bultje has survived through all this,

without having nine lives like a cat, still to gather honey in his own

valley, "surpasseth me to know."

We encamped at two large water-holes of the Bogan near Mr. Gilmore's

station, and the overseer sent to the men two buckets of milk. At the

station a well had been made to the depth of eighty feet, but a flood had

come, and risen so high as to wash in the sides and so fill up the well.

The workmen had passed through yellow clay chiefly, and the clay was wet

and soft when the further sinking was interrupted. Thermometer in my tent

109°, wind W. N. W.

24TH DECEMBER. A lurid haze hung among the trees as the earliest sunbeams

shot down amongst them. The party were ready to move off early, but the

progress was slow from various impediments. A hot wind blew like a blast

furnace. A bullock dropt down dead at the yoke. We encamped on the

Currandong, or Back Creek, near a small plain, after travelling about ten

miles. Thermometer in tent, 103.° Hot wind from the west.

25TH DECEMBER. Halted to rest the cattle. The wind blew this day more

from the northward, and was cooler. Thermometer in tent, 107°.

26TH DECEMBER.--Proceeded to Graddle, a cattle station belonging to Mr.

Coss, 2½ miles. Thermometer, 109°.

27TH DECEMBER.--The bullock-drivers having allowed twenty-two of the

bullocks to stray, it was impossible to proceed.

At early morning the sky was overcast, the weather calm, a slight wind

from the west carried off these clouds, and at about eleven a very hot

wind set in. The thermometer in my tent stood at 117°, and when exposed

to the wind rose rapidly to 129°, when I feared the thermometer would

break as it only reached to 132°.

28TH DECEMBER.--All the cattle having been recovered, we set off early,

accompanied by a stockman from Graddle, Mr. Coss's station. The day was

excessively warm, a hot wind blowing from the west. We finally encamped

on the Bogan, at a very muddy water-hole, after travelling eleven miles.

Thermometer in tent, 115°. At half past five, the sky became overcast,

and the hot wind increased to a violent gust, and suddenly fell. I found

that tartaric acid would precipitate the mud, leaving a jug of the water

tolerably clear, but then the acid remained. Towards evening the sky was

overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The night was uncommonly hot. At

ten the thermometer stood at 102°, and at day-break at 90°.

29TH DECEMBER.--The remaining water was so muddy that the cattle would no

longer drink it. The sky was overcast, with the wind from south. Finding

a cart road near our camp, I lost no time in conducting the lighter

portion of our equipment to Mr. Kerr's station at Derribong. In the

hollows I saw, for the first time on this journey, the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM,

reminding me of the river Darling, and on the plains a SOLANUM in flower,

of which I had only seen the apple formerly. At length, greener grass

indicated that the late rains had fallen more heavily there, and at about

twelve miles I reached the station situated on a rather clear and

elevated part of the right bank of the Bogan. Here the stock of water had

been augmented by a small dam, and a channel cut from a hollow part of

the clay surface conducted any rain water into the principal pool, where

the water was very good. We had now arrived at the lowest station on the

Bogan. The line of demarcation between the squatter and the savage had

been once much lower down, at Mudà, and even at Nyingan (see INFRA), but

the incursions of the blacks had rendered these lower stations untenable,

without more support than the Colonial government was able to afford.

There, at least, the squatter is not only not the real discoverer of the

country, but not even the occupier of what had been discovered. The map

will illustrate how it happens that the colonists cannot keep their

ground here from the marauding disposition of the savage tribes. [* See

map of Eastern Australia--INFRA.] The Darling is peopled more permanently

by these natives, than perhaps any other part of Australia: affording as

it does a more certain supply of food. It is only in seasons of very high

flood that this food, the fish, cannot be got at, and that they are

obliged to resort to the higher country at such seasons, between the

Darling, the Lachlan, and the Bogan. It also happens that the cattle of

the squatter are most accessible from the soft state of the ground; the

stockmen cannot even ride to protect them. The tribes from the Lachlan

and Macquarie meet on these higher lands, and when tribes assemble they

are generally ready for any mischief. The Bogan is particularly within

their reach, and when wet seasons do occur the cattle of squatters must

be very much at the mercy of the savages. The tribes from the Darling are

extremely hostile, even to the more peaceably disposed hilltribes near

the colony, and several stations have already been abandoned in

consequence of the outrages of the aborigines from the Darling and

Lachlan. Nothing is so likely to increase these evils as the precarious

or temporary occupation of such a country. The supply of water must

continue uncertain so long as there is no inducement from actual

possession to form dams, and by means of art to secure the full benefit

of the natural supply. Hence it is that half a million of acres, covered

with the finest grass, have been abandoned, and even savages smile at the

want of generalship by which they have been allowed to burn the white

man's dairy station and stockyards on the banks of the Bogan. The

establishment of a police station near the junction of the Bogan with the

Darling, or the formation of an inland township about Fort Bourke, had

been sufficient to have secured the stations along the Bogan and

Macquarie, and to have protected the Bogan natives as well as our own

countrymen from frequent robbery, murder, and insult. Such are the

results where SQUATTING has been permitted to supersede settling. With

possession, deficiency of water in dry seasons had been remedied, and no

such debateable land had remained on the borders of a British colony.

The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been

that between our present camp and Mudà, a very large lagoon about 50

miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206

feet in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the

Bogan is only 50 feet between Mudà and New Year's Range, in a distance of

upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Mudà

from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the

general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which

the overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and

other channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where

the declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in

the channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither

flow with so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by

which ponds are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this

part, during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about

double the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia.

I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of

Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require

to take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well,

having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas

the working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long

journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many

young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and

break them in as we proceeded.

30TH DECEMBER.--The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool morning.

Thermometer, 68°. This day we selected from the herds of Mr. Kerr 32

young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the stockyard.

Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham.

31ST DECEMBER, 1845.--Thermometer at 5 A. M., 62°: at noon, 109°. Wind

S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately avoiding the

tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into the air, also

some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass, much wanted for

the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the west in the evening.

1ST JANUARY, 1846.--A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day, and was

very high at 11 A. M. The party were chiefly employed breaking in the

young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with the

hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the

evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the

ATRIPLEX SEMIBACCATA of Brown was a common straggling plant.

2D JANUARY.--The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning was

cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the clouds, which

resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat again. Besides the

SALSOLA AUSTRALIS, we found a HALGANIA with lilac flowers, probably

distinct from the species hitherto described, which are natives of the

south-west coast.

3D JANUARY.--This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the old;

and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in the

Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to the

scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the first

hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named Mount

Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The little

pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of Cunningham was so

identified with the botanical history of almost all the shrubs in the

very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no other monument

seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled Cunningham to my mind; his

barbarous murder, and the uncertainty which still hung over the actual

circumstances attending it. The shrubs told indeed of Cunningham; of both

brothers, both now dead; but neither the shrubs named by the one, nor the

gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had witnessed the bloody deed, could tell

more. There the ACACIA PENDULA, first discovered and described by Allan,

could only

"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand, For ever silent, and for ever

sad."

4TH JANUARY.--The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with the

young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of conveyance

was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no pecuniary saving

would compensate, as compared with light carts and horses. I proceeded

forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called Tabbaratong, where some

water was said still to remain. We found some mud and water only;

although some that was excellent was found about two miles lower down the

Bogan, late in the evening.

We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the squatter.

The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and humiliating proofs

that the white man had given way, were visible in the remains of dairies

burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We hoped to find within

the territory of the native, ponds of clear water, unsoiled by cattle,

and a surface on which we might track our own stray animals, without

their being confused by the traces of others.

5TH JANUARY.--Three of the young cattle having escaped during the night,

retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were

brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful

native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light carts,

guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old, who had

come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native of the

lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our route

was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of CALLITRIS and

other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so

thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going

through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters.

The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former

route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young

native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people

driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan,

which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel

downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also

on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search,

but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabadà

and Mudà, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading

the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we

arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabadà ponds. The water was however

excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days, and we

hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only arrived at

as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The drays

with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock and Yuranigh

back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without water, and that I

wished him, if still EN ROUTE, immediately to unyoke the cattle, encamp

on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes during the night,

and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes I had found near

Bugabadà. We passed a miserable night without water at Cadduldury.

6TH JANUARY.--William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a message

from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I went forward

with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 A. M.. The morning

happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of water and food the

preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John Douglas and Isaac

Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at the first water-hole.

But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy loads thus far in the

extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to me. William Baldock

again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of water on a horse, a

horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the drays, the drivers of

which were almost frantic and unable to do their work from thirst. He

brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still remained at his

encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the drivers (Mortimer

and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes, and chains, to

escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to watch his own

team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune to the whole

party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as my camp, but

I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the water,

which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left with the

drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the water, and

the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr. Stephenson, who had

hastened back with several bottles, relieved his thirst, and, as the man

said, "saved his life."

Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been

hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of

the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and

heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives,

however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with which

I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably disposed

towards us.

7TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare bullocks,

having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during the night.

The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part of the

other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in charge

of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would also have

gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr. Kennedy sent

him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays carrying the

provisions had not come up, and my party too was short. The day surpassed

in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon in the shade stood

at 109°, a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr. Kennedy was distant

at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabadà.

The six drays came in about 4 P. M.; the sheep not until long after dark.

Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr. Kennedy,

and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement for drawing

forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care of, and which

was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the evening of next day, to

be attached on their arrival to the two drays with which they were to

come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest of the night, until

they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined to meet them early

next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it was not my intention to

send after the four stray bullocks until the drays came in, and the party

could be again united. Thermometer again 109° in the shade all day.

The CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was the

common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the

capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having

reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are

found so troublesome among the wool.

8TH JANUARY.--The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he had found

him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from want of

water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to a young

dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated that a

tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind. Baldock

had seen several bullocks dead on the way. In the evening the two first

teams were sent off as arranged. This day had also been very sultry,

especially towards evening.

9TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, the two relieving teams were despatched

as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered the camp. We

had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances, to suffer so

little loss, and I determined never to move the party again, until I

could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I had been

previously assured by the young native that water was still to be found

at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal to the

whole party.

On the banks of the Bogan, the ATRIPLEX HAGNOIDES formed a round white-

looking bush.

I rode forward to Mudà, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper, and

had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who remembered

my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show me my old track

and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the northward of my

present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had been killed in a fight

with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before. Two old grey-haired

men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed out to me as his

brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that I had at first

imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on their hams

opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and grey, and

melancholy--sad and hopeless types of their fading race!

The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless

struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river

Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild

natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of

the tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives

were chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie.

The natives of Mudà assured me there was no water nearer than Nyingan, a

large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct line lower

down the Bogan. The ponds of Mudà, their great store of water, and known

to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were alarmingly low, and it

became evident that our progress under such a scarcity of water would be

attended with difficulty. These natives gave us also a friendly hint that

"GENTLEMEN" should be careful of the spears of the natives of Nyingan, as

many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately by white men from Wellington

Valley.

Among the woods we observed the white-flowered TEUCRIUM RACEMOSUM, the

JUSTICIA MEDIA, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink flowers; also a

STENOCHILUS and FUSANUS (the Quandang), although not in fruit; a new

species of STIPA, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse rough

herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in the

way of C. TRUNCATA, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed

pales,[**] and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new

EREMOPHILA with white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The

beautiful DAMASONIUM OVALIFOLIUM, with white flowers red in the centre,

still existed in the water.

[* S. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi

villosis, glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis

involutis culmis brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligulâ oblongâ

subciliatâ.]

[** C. SCLERANTHA (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris

tactu scabris, spicis 4--7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque

breviaristato cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili

vacuo.]

[*** E. MITCHELLI (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis

linearibus planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4

superioribus subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.]

In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and

the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It

was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his

track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from

following it further.

I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that

out present camp near Bugabadà was in latitude 31° 56', and thus very

near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had

terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90°; at 9 P. M., 70°; with wet bulb,

63°.

10TH JANUARY.--Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to the S. W.

in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I sent

William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the stray

bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track to Mudà,

where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and sheep, already

arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of having been on

watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell asleep, and that

the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them, but lost himself.

He had met one or two natives who offered him honey, etc. which he

declined.

We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only

visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a

state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We had

passed near Bugabadà similar remains of a cattle station. This position

of Mudà was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank nearly

clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and

surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The

last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of

a young crop shooting up amongst it.

11TH JANUARY, 1846.--Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the cattle

and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy.

12TH JANUARY.--Still I halted at Mudà for the lost bullocks. To-day I

noticed the KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow

fruit, edged with pink.

13TH JANUARY.--Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning (by

moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones) could

not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr. Kerr's

station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be found. We

had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great scarcity of

water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that our loss

had been so slight.

I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards

Nyingan, which bore 353°--and having found a tolerably open country for

about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and encamped,

sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Mudà. Enough had

been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the camp. To

ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as already stated,

the paddock at Mudà, in which during this night, they could be secured,

having also sufficient grass,--likewise the horses. In my ride I found a

new grass of the genus CHLORIS[*], something like CHL. TRUNCATA in habit,

some starved specimens of TRICHINIUM LANATUM; amongst the grasses I also

found the ARISTIDA CALYCINA of Brown, the curious NEURACHNE MITCHELLIANA

Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and also a new PAPPOPHORUM

with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**] A smart shower fell

during the evening.

[* C. ACICULARIS (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris

tactu scabris, spicis 8--9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque

setaceo aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.]

[** P. FLAVESCENS (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis,

spicâ compositâ densissimâ oblongâ, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis

pilosis, foliis vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis

villosis.]

14TH JANUARY.--The cattle arrived early from Mudà, and were immediately

yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on the same

bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been encamped, I

turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water there. I

found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a journey of

about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently found I had

encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was guided by the

friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his country

afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I had cut

off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a north-

westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels will

probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan may

be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial

stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had

been burnt down.

15TH JANUARY.--Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day was

fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were

found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and

the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by

Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another.

An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the JASMINUM

LINEARE, with its sweet-scented white flowers--and, near the water, I saw

the ALTERNANTHERA NODIFLORA.

16TH JANUARY.--At a good early hour the party moved from Dar, crossing

the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked trees. We

lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgabà, and made a slight

détour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we encamped, and

were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this day's journey

Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen with those of the

feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old track, and

returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces of our

party.

At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the

natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a

house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were sunken

very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp had been

established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look for

the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of

my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it

thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water,

but in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen,

during the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan.

17TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the native

Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to the

Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from that point

to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water, provided this did

not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by sunset. Two old

women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by whom Piper was told that

the nearest permanent water was "NIMINÉ," where white men had attempted

to form a cattle-station, and been prevented by natives from the Darling,

many of whom had since been shot by the white men. They said the place

was far beyond Canbelego, the next stage of my former journey, and where

these women also said little or no water remained.

Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven A.M., having found water at Canbelego.

Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the fruit of the

CAPPARIS MITCHELLII, which he called an apple, being new to him, but

which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew, and said was

called "MOGUILE;" he also said that it was eaten by the natives.

18TH JANUARY.--The party moved to Canbelego where one or two small ponds

remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass than we had

hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of water, we had

been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again forward looking for

water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and after following the

river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was now within the same

distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had found abundance of water

when I sent him to survey it upwards during my last return journey up the

Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in which Piper pointed, that

the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as containing water; and as the

course of that creek, so far as shown on maps, led even more directly to

the Darling than did the Bogan, I was willing in such a season of extreme

drought, to avail myself of its waters. My eye had been much injured by

straining at stars while at the camp near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to

send Mr. Kennedy on one of my own horses, followed by Graham, to examine

the water in Duck Creek. I instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35°

E. of North, until he should reach the creek, and if he found water in it

to return direct to the camp, but that if water was not found on first

making the creek, then he was to follow Duck Creek up to its junction

with an eastern branch, surveyed also by Mr. Larmer, and to return thence

to the camp on a bearing of 240°. I also sent Corporal Macavoy with

Yuranigh down the Bogan, to ascertain if the channel contained any pond

between our camp and the part previously examined by Mr. Kennedy.

This officer returned from Duck Creek after an absence of twelve hours,

and reported that he had found no water in Duck Creek after examining its

bed twelve miles; but that he had found a fine lagoon on the plains near

the head of the eastern branch, but around which there was no grass, all

having been recently burnt.

20TH JANUARY.--Macavoy returned at seven A.M., saying he had been twenty-

four miles down the Bogan without finding any water. About the same time

Sergeant Niblett, in charge of the bullocks, came to inform me that these

animals were looking very ill, and could not drink the mud remaining in

the pond. At the same time intelligence was brought me that four of the

horses had broken their tether ropes during the night, and that William

Baldock had been absent in search of them on foot, from an early hour in

the morning. I immediately sent back the whole of the bullocks to

Nyingan, with a dray containing the empty harness casks, also the horses,

and a cart carrying all our other empty casks; and the whole of the

cattle and horses returned in the evening with all the casks filled.

21ST JANUARY.--Having again despatched the bullocks back to Nyingan, I

conducted the light carts forward along my old track (of 1835), having on

two of these carts two of the half-boats, and in the carts under them all

the water-kegs that had been filled. My object was to use the iron boat

as a tank, at which we might water the bullocks at one stage forward;

that by so gaining that point and proceeding onwards towards the water I

hoped to find next day, we might encamp at least at such a convenient

distance from it, as would admit of the cattle being driven forward to

return next day and draw the drays to it. This I considered possible,

even if it might be found necessary to go as far for water as the fine

reach described in my journal as the place of my encampment on the 14th

May, 1835, beyond Mount Hopeless, and which I concluded from the gin's

description, must have been what she called Nimine, or the disputed

station of Lee. I encamped this party on a plain about twelve miles from

Canbelego, where I had left Mr. Kennedy, with instructions to bring the

drays on with the spare cattle and horses early next morning. I had sent

thence Corporal Macavoy and Yuranigh to follow the track of Baldock and

the horses; but it was obvious that we could remain no longer at

Canbelego. As soon as we could set up one of the half-boats, the contents

of the water-kegs were emptied into it, and the cart was immediately sent

back with the empty kegs to Canbelego, where fresh horses had been left,

to continue with the same cart and empty kegs to Nyingan during the

night, so as to arrive in time to admit of the dray--already there with

the harness casks--bringing an additional supply back in the kegs, when

the bullocks returned next day.

It was now necessary that I should ascertain as soon as possible the

state of the ponds lower down the Bogan, and thereupon determine at once,

whether to follow that dry channel further in such a season, or to cross

to the pond in Duck Creek, and await more favourable weather. I

accordingly set out at 3 P.M., from where the water had been placed in

the half-boat, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson, and followed by Corporal

Graham and Dicky the native boy. By the advice of the latter, I rode from

the camp in the direction of 30° E. of N., and, crossing the Bogan, we

reached at about 3½ miles beyond it, a channel like it, which I supposed

was Duck Creek; and in it, just where we made it, there was a small pond

of water. Having refreshed our horses, we followed this channel

downwards, without meeting with more water. To my surprise, I found the

general direction was westward, until it JOINED THE BOGAN. We next

followed the course of the Bogan as long as daylight allowed us to do so,

without discovering any indication that water had recently lodged in any

of the hollows, and we finally tied up our horses and lay down to sleep,

in hopes that next day might enable us to be more successful.

22D JANUARY.--Having proceeded some miles along the western bends of the

Bogan, hastily--being desirous to see that day the great pond beyond

Mount Hopeless--I observed that the clay was very shining and compact in

a hollow sloping into an angle of the river-bed, that the grass was green

as from recent rain, and that there was more chirping of birds; I was

tempted once more by these indications, to look for water in the Bogan's

almost hopeless channel, and there we found a pond, at sight of which

poor Dicky shouted for joy; then drank, and fell asleep almost in the

water. It was small, but being sufficient for our immediate wants, we

thankfully refreshed our horses and ourselves, and proceeded on our

eventful journey. Almost immediately after leaving this pond I discovered

my old track, which we continued to follow across those large plains,

whence I had formerly discovered Mount Hopeless. These plains I soon

again recognized from the old tracks of my draywheels, distinctly visible

in many places after a lapse of nearly eleven years. Arriving at length

near the debateable land of Lee's old station, we resumed our examination

of the Bogan. There we perceived old cattle tracks; the ovens in which

the natives had roasted whole bullocks, and about their old encampments

many heaps of bones; but in none of the deep beds of former ponds or

lagoons could we discover any water. The grass was nevertheless excellent

and abundant; and its waste, added to the distress the want of water

occasioned us, made us doubly lament the absence of civilised

inhabitants, by whose industry that rich pasture and fine soil could have

been turned to good account. We saw no natives; nor were even kangaroos

or emus to be seen, as formerly, any longer inhabitants of these parts. I

turned at length, reluctantly, convinced that it would have been unsafe

to venture with cattle and drays into these regions before rain fell. In

returning, we at first found it difficult to find our old track, by which

alone we could hope that night to reach the small pond of the morning;

but Dr. Stephenson very fortunately found it, and we had also the good

fortune, for so we considered it, to arrive at the pond before sunset.

There we tied up our horses and lay down, glad indeed to have even that

water before our eyes. Dicky, the native boy, had repeatedly thrown

himself from his horse during the afternoon, quite ill from thirst.

23D JANUARY.--After our horses had drank, we left no water in the pond;

but they had fed on good grass, and we were well refreshed, although with

water only, for our ride back to the camp. Setting off from an old marked

tree of mine near the Bogan, on a bearing of 160°, I several times during

our ride fell in with the old track, and finally reached the camp after a

rapid ride of four hours. I found the whole party had arrived the

previous evening with the water, as arranged; but that Mr. Kennedy was

absent, having set off that morning in search of water to the N. E. with

Corporal Macavoy, on two government horses, leaving word that he should

return by twelve o'clock. He did not return at that hour, however, and at

two I moved the party across the Bogan, and proceeded along open plains

towards the ponds at Duck Creek, with the intention of there refreshing

the cattle and horses, and awaiting more favourable weather. I previously

watered out of the half-boat, 106 bullocks, and gave a quart to each of

the horses. On the way, the heat was so intense that our three best and

strongest kangaroo dogs died, and it was not until 10 P. M. that the

drays reached the ponds where I had proposed to encamp. About an hour and

a half before, Mr. Kennedy also came in, having galloped the two horses

66 miles, and hurt both their backs, Macavoy being a heavy man. At 9 P.

M., therm. 80°, wet bulb, 68°.

24TH JANUARY.--This morning I awoke completely blind, from ophthalmia,

and was obliged to have poultices laid on my eyes; several of the men

were also affected in the same manner. The exciting cause of this malady

in an organ presenting a moist surface was, obviously, the warm air

wholly devoid of moisture, and likely to produce the same effect until

the weather changed. At 9 P. M., therm. 84°, with wet bulb, 68°.