sullen stillness that now reigns throughout these forlorn and deserted
towers, once the scene of royal splendour and feudal revelry, present a
spectacle of the fallen magnificence of past ages, rarely to be equalled.
The structure stands at the extremity of a bold headland, and its
foundations are laid upon a bare grey rock. The part towards the north
consists of square towers, with high connecting walls which are
embattled; the old foss and part of the rock have been formed into walks
and planted with beech, elm, and lime trees. These trees having now
arrived at maturity, form an agreeable shade, and add much to the
picturesque ruins of the castle. The principal entrance is by a gateway
under a low pointed arch, on the height of which are the ruins of the
barracks, which were in constant use when the castle was the residence of
the lords presidents of the Marches of Wales. A portion of the barracks
has lately been converted into a dwelling house. Further on is a square
tower, the embattled rampart pierced with loops here and there, remain in
picturesque masses. On the left is a range of stone buildings supposed
to have been the stables; contiguous are the ruins of the court house,
and beyond it rises a lofty tower called Mortimer’s Tower. The lowest
apartment of this tower appears to have been a prison, the original
entrance being through a circular aperture in the ponderous keystone of
its vaulted roof. On the north and west sides a deep foss cut in the
solid rock guarded the body of the castle. The place of the ancient
draw-bridge is supplied by a stone bridge of two arches. The portal was
built during the presidency of Sir Henry Sidney; over it are the arms of
England and France, and the following inscription:—
“_Anno Domini Millessimo Quinquitesimo Octagesimo completo_, _Anno regni
illustrissimæ ac serenissimæ regina Elizabethæ vicesima iertio currente_,
1581.”
The court is an irregular square, and not very spacious, but the lofty
embattled walls by which it is enclosed, though in ruins, still preserve
their original outlines, and the frowning towers and bold masses,
luxuriously mantled with ivy, present a rare specimen of the fallen
magnificence of the feudal ages. The keep is a large square embattled
tower, divided into four stories, and rises to the height of 110 feet.
It is probably the only part of the castle which dates from the time of
Roger de Montgomery. Most of the windows and doorways are distinguished
by their round Norman arches. The ground floor is the dungeon half under
ground. The arched roof is twenty feet in height. In the arch are three
square apertures, which communicating with the chamber above, served for
the purpose of admitting and inspecting the prisoners, and were probably
intended also for raising supplies of ammunition and provisions, during a
time of siege. On the second floor is a room measuring 30 feet by 18,
with a fire place. The room communicates on the left with a square
arched chamber, and on the right with a narrow oblong room. This tower
measures 46 feet by 34, and the walls are from 9 to 12 feet thick.
Facing the gate is the hall, measuring 60 feet by 30, and was originally
approached by a flight of steps. There remains now neither roof nor
floor to this once elegant apartment where the splendid scene of Comus
was first exhibited, and where hospitality and magnificence blazed for
ages in succession without diminution or decay. Two pointed arches lead
to a spacious tower attached to the west end of the hall, in which are
several apartments, one of which is still called Prince Arthur’s room.
On the opposite end of the hall is another square tower, one of the rooms
of which is pointed out as the banqueting hall. A spacious chamber above
has been adorned with an unusual degree of rude magnificence.
The chapel was built in the reign of Henry I. by Joce de Dinan; all that
now remains of it is the nave—a circular building, one of the earliest of
this description in England. The approach is by a remarkably elegant
Norman doorway, richly adorned with ornaments peculiar to the style of
the period in which it was built. In the interior rising from the floor
are fourteen recesses in the wall formed by small pillars, with indented
capitals supporting round arches, which have alternately plain and zigzag
mouldings. A filleted ornament runs round the exterior of the wall. A
covered way led from the state apartments to the chapel. In the time of
Queen Elizabeth the interior was covered with panels exhibiting the
armorial bearings which church-yard describes as “armes in colours sitch
as few can shewe.”
From an inventory of goods found in Ludlow Castle bearing date 1708, the
eleventh year of the reign of Queen Anne, we learn that about forty rooms
were found entire at that period. Among these were the hall, council
chamber, lord president’s and my lady’s, with drawing rooms, the
steward’s room, great dining room, chief justice’s room, second judge’s
room, Prince Arthur’s room, captains’ apartments, kitchen, &c.; and as in
this inventory a table and altar are stated to have been found in the
chapel, we may presume the choir was at that time remaining. In the
account prefixed to Buck’s antiquity published in 1774, it is observed
that many of the apartments were then entire, and that the sword of state
and the velvet hangings were preserved. Dr. Todd in his learned edition
of Comus says, “A gentleman who visited the castle in 1768 has acquainted
me that the floor of the great council chamber was then pretty entire, as
was the staircase. The covered steps leading to the chapel were
remaining, but the covering of the chapel was fallen, yet the arms of the
lord presidents were visible. In the great council chamber was inscribed
on a wall a sentence from I. Samuel, chapter 12, verse 3; all which are
now wholly gone. On the accession of George I. an order is said to have
come down for unroofing the buildings, and stripping them of their lead.
The decay of this magnificent structure soon ensued. Many of the panels
bearing the arms of the lord presidents were converted into wainscotting
for a public house in the town, a former owner of which enriched himself
by materials clandestinely taken away. The Earl of Powis, who previously
held the castle by virtue of a long lease, acquired the reversion in fee
by purchase from the crown in the year 1811.”
THE CHURCH, which stands in the highest part of the town, is a very
beautiful cruciform edifice in the decorated gothic style of the latter
part of the fifteenth century, forming undoubtedly the finest
ecclesiastical fabric in the county, and perhaps the most stately
parochial church in England. The structure is dedicated to St. Lawrence,
and has a lofty and noble appearance; it consists of nave, chancel,
choir, side aisles, transepts, and two chantry chapels, with a handsome
tower rising from the centre, having at each angle an octangular turret,
surmounted by a pinnacle. The tower contains eight musical bells, and a
set of chimes was put up at the expense of the parish in the year 1795.
The principal entrance is by a large hexagonal porch. The nave is
divided from the aisles by six lofty pointed arches on each side,
springing from light clustered pillars. Above them is a clerestory with
a range of heavy windows. The four great arches under the tower are
remarkably bold, beneath the eastern arch is the choral rood loft,
embellished with open carved work, but upon it is erected a modern
gallery, above which stands a powerful and fine toned organ, the gift of
Henry Arthur Earl of Powis, in the year 1764; it cost £1,000. The choir
is lighted by five lofty pointed windows on each side, and one of much
larger dimensions at the west end. This window is richly adorned with
stained glass, chiefly representing the legend of St. Lawrence, the
patron saint of the church. The other windows in this venerable edifice
bear evidence of having once been enriched with a profusion of stained
glass of the most exquisite workmanship. The large eastern window
containing the legendary history of St. Lawrence having been so defaced
and wantonly broken that the various subjects could with difficulty be
traced. It remained in this state till the year 1828, when the
corporation of Ludlow directed Mr. David Evans, of Shrewsbury, to restore
the window according to its original design. It was completed in a
masterly manner in 1832, and the skill displayed by the artist in
overcoming the difficulties he had to encounter has excited the
admiration of every one who has seen it. The window is justly considered
the most magnificent specimen of the art of glass staining in the county,
and for general effect is surpassed by few in England. The window is
divided into sixty-five compartments, and contains five hundred and forty
feet of glass. The whole of the subjects depicted in the window are
under elegant canopies of delicate tabernacle work, differing in design;
and the costume of the figures throughout the various scenes are
particularly curious, and well deserve attention, as the richness of
colour and general effect is not inferior to some of the finest specimens
of the ancient stained glass. The window is supposed originally to have
been setup during the episcopacy of Thomas Spoford, who was promoted to
the see of Hereford in 1421. The three large windows on the south side
of the chancel display full length figures of bishops, apostles, and
Romish saints, the apex of each containing twelve small curious figures.
The glass in the windows on the north side has been greatly mutilated,
but sufficient remains to show the splendour and magnificence of the
colouring.
The north and south chapels of the choir are separated from the transepts
by remarkably handsome carved screens; in the windows are paintings
representing the history of the apostles, and also very splendid remnants
of stained glass, portraying the story of the ring presented by some
pilgrims to Edward the Confessor, who, as “The Chronicles” relate, “was
warned of his death certain days before he died by a ring that was
brought him by certain pilgrims, which ring he had secretly given to a
poor man that asked his charity in the name of God and St. John the
Evangelist. These pilgrims, as the legend recites, were men of Ludlow.”
The ceiling is of oak resting on corbels, which spring from highly
decorated figures of angels bearing shields. The extreme length from
east to west is 203 feet, and the breadth across the transepts measures
130 feet. The tower rises 131 feet in height, forming a prominent
object, and gives considerable beauty to many prospects from the
neighbouring country. In the church there are two highly finished
effigies of Judge Bridgeman and his lady, but much mutilated. The head
of the tomb was opened in 1805 (on sinking a grave for the body of Mrs.
Turner) when the hair of both Sir John and his lady was found perfectly
entire; the coffins mouldered on exposure to the air. In the high
chancel is a large Grecian monument displaying an elegant sculptured
cherub and emblems of time and eternity, in memory of Theophilus Salwey,
Esq., who died in 1760. A handsome altar tomb of white marble has
recumbent effigies of chief Justice Waiter and his lady; and on the front
are figures representing their issue. Judge Walter died in 1592. Within
the communion rails is a tomb in memory of Sir Robert Townsend and his
lady, with two full length figures, and surrounding the base stand their
children. Dame Mary Evre, who died in 1612, has a tomb erected to her
memory, at the back of which are the armorial bearings of the family.
Upon the tomb is a recumbent figure resting on a cushion, habited in the
dress of the times and the head covered with a hood. In various parts of
the building will be found several interesting tablets and mural
monuments. Though not collegiate the church of St. Lawrence anciently
possessed a chantry of ten priests, maintained by the rich guild of St.
John, who gave to its choral services the splendour of a cathedral. The
living is a rectory valued in the king’s book at £19. 12s. 6d., now
returned at £160 in the patronage of the lord chancellor. The tithes
have been commuted for £23. 13s. 6d. Ecclesiastical courts are held here
for granting probates of wills and letters of administration.
THE INDEPENDENT CHAPEL, situated in Old street, is a neat structure
capable of accommodating upwards of three hundred persons, and was
erected in 1830. The congregation formerly assembled for divine worship
in a chapel still standing, situate on the banks of the river, near the
bottom of Corve street. Before the erection of this fabric, in which
they continued to meet for nearly a century, the dissenters conducted
their religious services in a licensed dwelling house, where, in the
early part of 1731, they were furiously assailed by a mob. This vain
attempt to crush them led to the erection of the first dissenting house
in the borough. The Rev. Theophilus Davies is the pastor of the
congregation.
THE METHODIST CHAPEL, a plain structure situated in Lower Broad street,
was enlarged in 1835, and is now capable of holding about five hundred
hearers. THE PRIMITIVE METHODIST CHAPEL, situated in Old street, is a
substantial building erected in 1836, and has accommodation for upwards
of three hundred worshippers.
THE BOYS’ NATIONAL SCHOOL is held in a spacious room over the Market
Cross; and the GIRLS’ SCHOOL is held in a house in Brand lane. They are
supported by voluntary subscriptions and charitable benefactions: the
latter will be found noticed with the general charities of the borough.
The gross income for the year 1850 was £155. 16s. 3d.
THE SAVINGS’ BANK, held in the public buildings, Castle street, was
established in 1816. On November 20th, 1850, the total number of
accounts was 1,939, of which twenty-three were charitable societies and
eighteen friendly societies. The capital stock of the bank at the same
period amounted to £70,958. 18s. 4d. The respective balances of 961
depositors did not exceed £20; 543 were above that sum and not exceeding
£50; 231 not exceeding £100; 96 not exceeding £150; 62 not exceeding
£200; and five accounts exceeded the latter sum. Mr. John Williams,
actuary.
THE LUDLOW COUNTY COURT, for law proceedings in actions and claims not
exceeding £50, embraces the following places, viz., Abdon, Ashford
Bowdler, Ashford Carbonell, Aston, Acton Scott, Bitterley, Bromfield,
Burrington, Cainham, Clee St. Margaret, Cold Weston, Culmington,
Diddlebury, Downton, Elton, Halford, Heath, Holdgate, Hope Baggot, Hopton
Cangeford, Leinthall Starkes, Leintwardine, Ludford, Munslow, Onibury,
Richards Castle, St. Lawrence Ludlow, Sibdon Carwood, Stanton Lacy, Stoke
St. Milborough, Stoke Say, Tugford, Wigmore and Wistanston. _Judge_,
Uvedale Corbett, Esq.; _Clerk_, John Williams, Esq.; _High Bailiff_,
William Davies.
THE LUDLOW LIBRARY, AND MECHANICS’ INSTITUTION, established in 1841, is
held in one of the rooms of the market hall, the use of which has been
granted by the corporation. The institution has an interesting library
of nearly 300 volumes. Mr. George Cocking is the secretary.
THE PUBLIC ROOMS, situated in Castle street, were erected in 1840 by a
company of shareholders. One portion is set apart for the _Ludlow
Natural History Society_, where there is deposited a choice and valuable
collection of fossils, British and foreign birds and animals, &c. This
institution was established in 1834. There is also a spacious and
elegant _Assembly Room_, and another for magisterial purposes, besides a
_Reading Room_ well supplied with the principal London and provincial
journals. THE MARKET CROSS is a neat edifice, with a cupola, where
butter and other productions are sold on the market days. THE MARKET
HOUSE is a plain brick building in Castle street, containing large and
convenient rooms for the meetings of the corporation.
THE DISPENSARY is supported by voluntary subscriptions, a collection made
in Ludlow church every alternate year, and the dividends of certain
charitable bequests. The number of patients cured or relieved during the
year 1851 was 279. Mr. H. Hodges, consulting surgeon; and Mr. Harley,
dispenser. THE LYING-IN INSTITUTION was established in 1810, since which
3,561 persons have been relieved and visited, under the direction of the
managing directors.
THE GAS WORKS. The Union Gas Works were established in 1840 by a company
of shareholders with a capital stock of £3,050. The old gas works are
situated on the road to the Clee Hill.
THE WATER WORKS are the property of the corporation. The water is forced
by an engine from the river to a reservoir at the top of the Market-hall,
and thence conveyed in pipes to different parts of the town. There are
also conduits supplied by pipes with excellent water from the
neighbouring hills.
LUDLOW POOR-LAW UNION WORKHOUSE is a spacious stone edifice, situated in
the parish of Stanton Lacy. The union comprehends an area of 125 miles,
and embraces the following parishes, viz.:—Abdon, Ashford Bowdler,
Ashford Carbonel, Bitterley, Bromfield, Caynham, Clee St. Margaret, Cold
Weston, Culmington, Diddlebury, Halford, Heath, Holdgate, Hope Baggott,
Hopton Cangeford, Munslow, Onibury, Richard’s Castle, St. Lawrence
Ludlow, Stanton Lacy, Stoke, St. Milborough, Stokesay, and Tugford, all
in the county of Salop; Aston Burrington, Downton, Elton, Leinthall
Starkes, Richard’s Castle, and Wigmore, in Herefordshire; the parishes of
Leintwardine and Ludford are situated in both counties. Expenditure for
the year ending 28th September, 1850, £3,533. 15s. 10½d. _Clerk_: Robert
Thomas. _Medical Officers_: Henry Meymott, John Southern, Charles
Pothecary, Daniel Gingell, Robert Jones. _Relieving Officers_: William
Russell, James Jones, John Harding, Edward Millichap. _Chaplain_: Robert
Meyricke. _Master and Matron_: William and Mrs. Russell.
GAOLFORD TOWER, a small structure, situated in Tower street, has four
cells for the confinement of prisoners, and a day room and airing yard.
It was built by the corporation in the 4th of George III.
DINHAM HOUSE, an elegant and spacious mansion, situated near the Castle
(now the residence of John Thomas, Esq.), towards the close of the late
war was occupied by Lucien Bonaparte, being then detained a prisoner in
England. He left Ludlow on Sunday, June 30th, 1811.
Among the customs peculiar to this town that of rope pulling is not the
least extraordinary. On Shrove-Tuesday the corporation provides a rope,
three inches in thickness and thirty-six yards in length, which is given
out at one of the windows of the Market House, when a large body of the
inhabitants, divided into two parties (one contending for Castle street
and Broad street wards, and the other for Old street and Corve street
wards), commence an arduous struggle; and as soon as either party has
gained a victory, by pulling the rope beyond the prescribed limits, the
pulling ceases. The rope is usually purchased from the victorious party,
and then given out again. Ludlow preserves the custom of walking over
the limits of the township once a-year. This procession takes place on
the Wednesday before Holy Thursday, on which occasion the boys of the
different schools, attended by one of the clergy, proceed from the church
to a place near Corve Bridge, where a cross formerly stood. Here the
Epistle for the preceding Sunday is read; from whence passing to Weeping
Cross, the boys again kneel down, and the Gospel for the same day is read
by the clergyman.
THE BROAD GATE, the only one now remaining entire, receives its name from
an ancient religious foundation called Barnaby House, famous in past ages
as the temporary resting place of the numerous devotees passing through
Ludlow on their way to the Holy Well of St. Winefrede, in North Wales.
Adjoining formerly stood a chapel, dedicated to St. Mary of the Vale.
The Gateway of Millgate is at the end of Barnaby lane. In Lower Millgate
traces of the town wall are still to be seen. In 1786 Dinham gate
remained entire, adjoining which anciently stood a chapel, approached by
a flight of steps. The land leading from the bottom of Mill street to
Dinham bears the name of Camp, from the frequent encampment of soldiers
there. Old Gate stood at the bottom of Old street.
A religious house of WHITE FRIARS was founded at Ludlow, in 1349, by Sir
Laurence de Ludlowe, Knt., which we are informed by Leland “was a fayre
and costlie thinge, and stoode without Corve Gate by north, almost at the
end of that suburb.” Stukeley, who wrote about the year 1720, says,
“There was a rich priory out of the town, on the north side. Little
remains now to be seen, excepting a small adjoining church once belonging
to it. About the same place an arched gateway went across the street,
but now demolished.” The church above mentioned was the chapel of St.
Leonard, founded in 1590, and intended for a charitable and religious
establishment, the almshouse having survived its chapel, and, according
to the will of the founder, contributes to the maintenance of four poor
persons. Near to Friars’ lane was situated the establishment of
AUGUSTINE FRIARS, to which Edmund de Pontibus was a benefactor. There
was an HOSPITAL, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, situated near the
bridge, founded by Peter Undergod, and endowed with certain lands for the
maintenance of certain religious brethren, and sustentation of poor and
infirm people. The annual value at the dissolution was £17. 13s. 3d.
Thomas Johnes, Esq., was born at Ludlow, in the year 1783. He received
his early education at Shrewsbury school, and took his degree of M.A. at
Oxford. In 1783 Mr. Johnes erected an elegant mansion at Hafod, which in
1807 was consumed by a destructive fire, with much of its valuable
contents, the loss amounting to £70,000. Notwithstanding this disaster,
he rebuilt and adorned his mansion anew. Here he indulged his taste for
literature, employed a printing press on his own premises, and produced
some elegant historical works. He died in 1814, and was buried in the
church which he had built at Hafod.
Richard P. Knight, Esq., an elegant scholar and distinguished in the
literary circles of Europe, represented Ludlow in parliament for many
years. Mr. Knight bequeathed his fine collection of medals, drawings,
and bronzes (worth at least £30,000), to the British Museum. They
include a single volume of drawings by the inimitable Claude, which was
purchased for £1,600 from a private individual, who a short time
previously had given £3 for the same volume.