=Paint the Machine= to complete it. The _The Boy Craftsman Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy's Leisure Hours

the different colors used. The lamps, and top, ends, and sides of the

front portion of the car should be painted the color of brass, and the

rest of the sides, with the exception of a strip along the bottom and

the edge of the arms, should be painted vermilion. Paint the inside of

the car and the edges of the seat-arms tan color, to represent leather

upholstering. With black paint, or ink, stripe off the door and

trimmings upon the sides and top of the machine, as shown in Figs. 375,

387, and 388. Blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the spokes and

rims of the wheels. Along the bottom of each side roughly indicate some

machinery with black paint, about as it is drawn in Fig. 387.

When you have tired of your touring-car, you can easily convert it into

=An Automobile Delivery Wagon=, such as illustrated in Fig. 390. To

make this you will require the same frame as that used for the

touring-car, with the clockworks and belt-wheels attached in the same

manner. If you have made the touring-car, remove the cardboard sides

from its wooden frame, separating the cardboard from the wood carefully,

so you can put the machine together again when you wish. If you haven't

made this automobile, you will find the details for the construction of

the frame in Figs. 376 and 377, and the manner of performing the work

described on pages 343 to 346.

[Illustration: FIG. 390.--An Automobile Delivery Wagon.]

=The Cardboard Sides= are much easier to prepare than those for the

touring-car, as they are straight and require but little cutting. The

outline for these is shown in Fig. 390, surrounding the drawing of the

completed wagon. Lay out one side upon a piece of cardboard, using the

dimensions given upon the drawing, and then place it upon a board and

cut it out with your knife. Using this as a pattern, place it upon

another piece of cardboard and run a pencil around its edges, thus

marking out the second side. In cutting out the latter piece, run your

knife a little inside of the line in order to allow for the increase in

size caused by marking it out with the first cardboard side. Having

prepared the two sides, draw panels upon them in some such form as shown

in the illustration, separating them with three lines. Draw a small

window, with its top slightly arched, near the front edge of each side,

and cut an opening for it (see illustration).

Glue the sides to the edges of the truck in the same manner as those of

the touring-car were done, piercing holes for the posts of the

clockworks to fit in, and openings for the belt-wheels to project

through, in the left side. Cut a piece of cardboard for the back of the

wagon, fit it between the sides, and fasten it in place by gluing a

number of linen strips to it and the sides upon the inner or unexposed

surfaces. Then cut a piece of cardboard for the roof, making it about

two inches longer than the sides, to give it the proper projection over

the front of the wagon. Fasten this piece in position in the same manner

as you fastened the back of the wagon.

Make the floor and footboard for the wagon out of a piece of cardboard

bent as shown in Fig. 390, and fasten it across the top edges of the

projecting portions of the sides with linen strips. Cut a strip for a

seat, and fit it between the sides an inch and one-half above the floor.

=The Wheels= of an automobile wagon contain fourteen spokes, but as you

have the pattern for the touring-car wheels of twelve spokes, you can

just as well use it in making the wagon wheels. They should be mounted

upon the sides of the wagon, a trifle above the bottoms of the spool

wheels, as shown in the illustration, so they will not touch the carpet

when the machine is operated.

=All Other Portions= of the wagon should be made of the same patterns

given for the touring-car, viz. the chauffeur (Figs. 384 and 385), the

steering-wheel (Figs. 382 and 389), the brake (Fig. 375), and the lamps

(Fig. 381). As the legs of the chauffeur will show, it will be necessary

to cut a pair out of cardboard (the drawing shows the shape clearly

enough to work by) and fasten them to his body. Fasten the chauffeur

upon the seat and glue his left hand to the steering-wheel, placing the

latter in front of him, as shown in the drawing. Stick the lower end of

the cardboard upright of the steering-wheel upon a pin run through the

wagon floor from the under side. Glue the upper end of the brake to the

chauffeur's hand and the lower end to the side of the wagon.

=Paint the Wagon= with water colors, making the sides, end, and roof

olive green, the steering-wheel, brake, and spokes of wheels black, and

the lamps yellow or the color of brass. In painting the sides show the

battery compartments upon them below what would properly be the bottom

of the wagon (see illustration). Leave the cardboard white below this

box, as it represents no portion of the machine, but is necessarily

brought down so far to conceal the wooden frame. It will give the

machine a more finished appearance if, after painting, you go over it

with black paint and a fine brush and stripe the panels upon the sides,

following the lines which you drew upon them with a pencil. Letter the

word "Delivery" upon the centre panel of each side, and the firm name in

the small panel between the lamp and window.

By attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner as described for the

automobiles, you can make

=A Clockwork Railway=, constructing the cars similarly to the street car

shown in Fig. 363, Chapter XXV, and using the schemes in the same

chapter for the tracks and depots.

CHAPTER XXVII

WORK TO DO WITH A KNIFE

[Illustration: Boy Sharpening Knife.]

A number of years ago a friend of the writer paid a visit to a large

penitentiary where the prisoners were engaged in the manufacture of

boots and shoes. Among the workers he became particularly interested in

a small German boy who was industriously marking the backs of boots with

the lot numbers always to be found upon these goods. The boy didn't have

an ink bottle near him, and yet, with what appeared to be a wooden

stick, was marking the numbers in ink. A closer inspection disclosed the

fact that the pointed stick held by the lad was nothing more or less

than

=A Home-made Fountain Pen.=--Upon seeing that the visitor was struck

with the novelty of the affair, the superintendent presented him with

one of the pens and told him of its origin. The pen was the invention of

a forger who was placed in this department of the prison, and when its

good qualities were seen it was very quickly adopted by all of the

prisoners in place of the pointed stick and ink-bottle they had been

using.

The pen is shown in Fig. 391. It is made out of a piece of elderberry

wood about five inches long, a small glass vial, and a piece of sponge.

First push out the pith of the piece of elderberry wood (this you will

find easily removed), and then point one end pen-shape, as shown in the

illustration, and split it back from the point about an inch in the same

manner as a writing pen is made. Whittle the other end of the stick so

it will fit tightly in the neck of the glass vial. This bottle, or

reservoir, should be filled with ink, and a small piece of the sponge

you have procured should be pushed into the hollow of the pen above the

point (see illustration), as a means of preventing the ink from flowing

too freely upon the point.

[Illustration: FIG. 391.--A Home-made Fountain Pen.]

Although the pen was originally made with a coarse point for marking

heavy figures, you will find that it can be made to write to a

reasonable degree of fineness by whittling a fine point upon it.

[Illustration: FIG. 392.--The Magic Pin-wheel.]

=The Magic Pin-wheel= represented by Fig. 392 can be made with a few

minutes' work, and is something entirely new in the line of magic toys.

There are probably few persons who will understand this simple yet

mysterious toy when they see it properly operated, until the secret is

disclosed to them. As you will see by looking at the drawing, the

pin-wheel consists of nothing more than a stick notched along one edge,

and a thin piece of wood about an inch in length fastened through its

centre to the end of the stick by means of a pin. In cutting the notches

it is important to make them of the same length and depth. Locate the

exact centre of the chip of wood before pivoting it to the end of the

stick, and with your knife make a small hole for the pin to run through

at this point. Be careful to drive the pin in straight.

[Illustration: FIG. 393.--How to operate the Pin-wheel.]

=To Operate= the pin-wheel, hold the stick in the left hand as

illustrated in Fig. 393, and then, taking a coin in the right hand, rub

it vigorously across the notches. The vibration produced by rubbing the

stick causes the small pin-wheel to revolve about its pin axis. The

funny part of the performance is the fact that you can have perfect

control over the wheel, and change the direction of its course at will,

if you but master one little trick performed with the first and second

fingers of the right hand. In holding the coin between the thumb and

first finger of the right hand, allow the end of the first finger to

extend over the top of the stick and bring the second finger close to

the side of it, as shown in the illustration (Fig. 393). To make the

wheel revolve from left to right, allow the end of the first finger to

rub along the top edge of the notches; then, to reverse the direction,

relieve the pressure of this finger, and press the second finger against

the other edge of the notches.

At first you may not be able to make the wheel obey your commands, but

with a little practice you will find it a simple matter to make it

change its direction without any one noticing how you perform the

magical trick.

=A Brass Tack= driven into the stick a little below the notches, about

the point where the thumb of your left hand will strike, will add to the

mystic appearance of the pin-wheel. A person invariably notices this the

first thing when he sees you operate the wheel (you can make it a point

to press your left thumb against the tack), and thinks he has solved the

trick. But when you let him have the toy, he will soon find out that all

his pressing and pulling upon the tack will have no effect upon the

wheel, and beg you to "put him on" to the trick.

=A Wooden Chain and Rattle= has long been one of the most interesting

pieces of work a boy can make with his jack-knife, and, inasmuch as the

making of one requires careful cutting, the exercise is a good test of a

boy's skill with this handy tool.

[Illustration: FIG. 394.

FIG. 395.

FIG. 396.

Details of a Wooden Chain and Rattle.]

In making the first chain and rattle, you had better use a pine block,

as hard wood is not so easy for a beginner to handle. Therefore, for a

first attempt, select a piece of sound pine free from blemishes, and

plane it down to the dimensions, seventeen inches long, two inches wide,

and two inches thick. With a lead-pencil mark off ten divisions one inch

apart, running the lines around the four sides of the block (see Fig.

394). Then draw two lines lengthwise on each side of the block, as shown

at _AB_ and =CD=, making them one-half inch apart and three-quarters of

an inch from each edge. With a chisel, cut out the four corners of the

block down to the tenth line, as represented by the shading in Fig. 394.

=The Chain= is to be cut out of the remaining core, one link out of

every two divisions. Commencing at the top of the block, remove the

shaded portions _T_ and _U_ (Fig. 395), as those would form only half

links; then notch out the shaded corners marked _X_ in the drawing, and

gradually cut the core into circular links. Having finished this

operation, draw a circle inside of each link, and cut out the wood

inside of it. Round the edges of the links as shown in the drawing of

the finished chain (Fig. 396).

Your success in making a good chain will depend largely upon a good,

sharp knife and careful cutting. With a dull knife you are almost

certain to split the links when separating one from another.

=The Rattle= is to be made from the lower portion of the block. This

part of the figure is more difficult to cut than the chain. First draw

the two lines marked _HI_ and _JK_ in Fig. 394 one-half inch from the

edges; then draw the cross lines _LM_, _NO_, _PQ_, and _RS_, as shown in

the illustration. These lines should be similarly drawn upon the other

three sides of the block. Remove the wood from the spaces shaded in the

drawing, and you will then have left a centre solid block from which to

cut the ball. Gently round the corners of this, and then gradually

separate it from the surrounding framework. When this has been

accomplished, the centre block will slip up and down. Now continue

cutting the block until it is a perfect round ball, but be careful not

to make it small enough to fall out of the frame, for that would spoil

the entire piece of work.

After completing the cutting, sand-paper the links and rattle until they

are perfectly smooth. Then oil the wood or give it a coat of varnish.

CHAPTER XXVIII

CORK TOYS

[Illustration: Materials Needed and Finished Articles.]

It is surprising the number of small toys that can be made out of corks

of different shapes and sizes with the aid of glue, pins, burnt matches,

worsted, and cardboard. Even though a boy has passed the kindergarten

age, he will find this work entertaining for days when the weather is

disagreeable without; and though he may not care to play with them

himself, his work will not have been wasted, for a younger brother will

surely be glad to have some cork animals and birds to add to his

menagerie, and a sister no less delighted with a small log-cabin and set

of cork furniture.

Flat and tapered corks can probably be found about the house on old jars

and bottles, while the straight variety can be procured at any

drug-store. In buying the latter ask for No. 9, inch and one-half,

straight, common corks, half a gross of which will cost about

twenty-five cents.

[Illustration: FIG. 397.--The Pig.]

=Cork Animals= are peculiar-looking beasts of abnormal proportions, but

all sorts of magical feats are performed by toy makers, and such wonders

=A Pig= that can boast of a body as large as that of an elephant is

commonly found among the so-called Noah's ark animals. To make a pig,

first draw its head, as in the drawing of Fig. 397, upon a piece of

cardboard, and then, after cutting it out, select a straight cork and

make a slit in one end of it in which to stick the head. A little glue

applied to the cardboard will hold the head in place. The pig's feet

consist of four pieces of burnt matches pointed at the ends and stuck

into the cork as shown in Fig. 397, while the tail is formed of a piece

of copper wire curled at one end and stuck into the cork. When the pig

has been made, paint its head and feet to match its body.

[Illustration: FIG. 398.--The Horse.]

=A Horse= requires a cork of the same shape as that used for the pig.

Cut the head out of cardboard and glue it in a slit made in the end of

the cork (see Fig. 398). Dip the ends of four burnt matches in glue and

stick them in the cork for legs, and fasten a few pieces of worsted in a

hole made in the end of the cork for the tail. A piece of thread should

be fastened about the animal's neck for reins.

After making the horse, take another straight cork for

=The Elephant=, and cut the head, trunk, ears, and tusks out of a piece

of cardboard as shown in the illustration (Fig. 399). Cut the tail out

of another piece of cardboard, and glue it in a slit made in the end of

the cork. The legs are, of course, larger around than those of the

horse, and, as matches will be too slender, whittle four short wooden

pegs for them. Point these pegs at one end, and, after dipping them in

glue, stick them into the cork.

[Illustration: FIG. 399.--The Elephant.]

[Illustration: FIG. 400.--The Giraffe.]

=The Giraffe= is just as simple to make as any of the animals, for he is

put together in the same manner, except that a tapered cork is used for

the body. The head and neck are made in one piece of cardboard (see

illustration), and a piece of worsted forms the tail. When you have

painted the head and neck a tan color to match the cork, and marked a

number of brown spots upon the body, this tall and most graceful of

animals will appear very life-like.

[Illustration: FIG. 401.--The Korka-bird.]

=A Porcupine= is simple to make out of a long, straight cork with

toothpicks cut into small pieces for quills, and stuck into the cork as

close as you can place them. The head and other portions of this animal

can easily be made with the aid of a natural history, and it will be a

simple matter to devise

=Other Animals= upon the same schemes as those just described, by

consulting the pictures in one of these books. It is not necessary to

always copy a real animal. Use your ingenuity and see what queer-looking

creatures you can make. Figure 401 gives a suggestion for one of these,

which we will call

=The Korka-bird.=--You will see by looking at the drawing that the two

legs are made of matches, the lower ends of which are stuck into a piece

of cork for a standard; and the neck consists of a burnt match stuck

into the end of the cork with its upper end split to receive the

cardboard head. A small chicken-feather stuck into the top of the head

(the cardboard being split enough to receive it), two others in the

back, and a fourth in the end of the cork compose all the plumage this

wonderful bird can boast of, but this lack of feathers is more than

made up by a beautiful head, neck, body, and legs, which are gilded.

[Illustration: FIG. 402.--The Duck.]

As a suggestion of what can be made in the way of water toys,

=A Duck= is shown in Fig. 402. The body for this consists of a cork

split in half, the head is cut out of a piece of cigar-box, and a small

tin keel is fastened to the centre of the under side of the body. A few

chicken feathers will form the tail. Glue, of course, cannot be used

upon the duck, as it would soften in water, so the pieces composing it

will have to be fastened together by means of pins. Other water toys,

such as

=Canoes=, consisting of a cork split in half, lengthwise, with the

inside scooped out by means of your knife, are made with a few minutes'

work, and these can be transformed into

=Small Sail-boats= by sticking a toothpick in the bow for a mast and

rigging a tiny sail upon it.

=Cork Furniture= is not a new idea for toys, but, inasmuch as many have

never heard of them, a few examples of what can be made in this line

have been introduced in this chapter. For

=A Chair=, such as shown in Fig. 403, find a flat cork, and stick four

pins in one side for legs, and five pins fairly close together in the

other side for the chair-back (see illustration). When the pins have

been properly placed, take some worsted and wind it around each of the

four legs, crossing from one to another as shown in the drawing, thus

forming the chair-rounds. Also weave the worsted in and out around the

pins forming the chair-back as in the drawing, so that all but the heads

of the pins are covered when the operation is completed.

[Illustration: FIG. 403.--Chair.]

=The Sofa=, illustrated in Fig. 404, is made after the same manner.

Split a straight cork lengthwise for the seat, placing it flat-side up,

and stick pins around three edges of it upon which to wind the worsted.

[Illustration: FIG. 404.--Sofa.]

=A Small Tabouret= is shown in Fig. 405. Select a straight cork for the

base of this, and, after seeing that a good sharp edge is upon your

knife, slice the cork lengthwise, making it hexagonal in shape. Then

stick six pins in the cork near the upper edge, placing one in each of

the six edges (see illustration). When this has been done, weave worsted

upon the pins in the same manner as the chair-back was formed.

[Illustration: FIG. 405. Tabouret.]

[Illustration: FIG. 406.--A Cork Log-cabin.]

=A Toy Log-cabin=, or slab-hut, as it would properly be called, as the

building is first put up and then covered with corks split in half for

slabs, is illustrated in Fig. 406. A cardboard box should be procured

out of which to make this little building, the proportion of which will

determine the shape and size. Turn the box bottom side up, and on it

construct a gable-roof. Cut two pieces of cardboard large enough to make

a good projection over the ends of the building, and fasten them to the

bottom of the box as shown in the drawing, gluing a number of linen

strips to the pieces to hold them securely in place. Two pieces of

cardboard should be cut to fit the gable-ends, and glued in place with

linen strips. Cut windows in each side of the box and a door in each

end. Having completed the little cardboard cabin, split enough straight

corks in half lengthwise to cover the walls. Sharpen your knife well

before commencing this work, so the corks will cut evenly and without

breaking. Begin gluing these half corks along the bottom of the walls,

fitting them end to end as shown in the drawing, and placing one row

above another. Fit them neatly around the windows and door openings, and

if they do not space out as evenly as shown in the illustration, cut

some shorter pieces to fill in. The corks will quickly adhere to the

cardboard if you press your finger against each for a second or two

after placing it in position.

The roof may be painted to represent boards or shingles, and a cork

stuck in it as shown in the illustration will form the chimney. Cover

the window openings with paper. Tissue-paper will admit more light than

ordinary writing-paper, so probably will be the better material. Hinge a

piece of cardboard to the jamb of each door opening, using small pieces

of linen for hinges. Rule a few vertical lines upon the doors to

represent the boards. All that now remains to be done to complete the

cabin is the mounting, for which a seven-eighths-inch board should be

procured. Use linen strips to fasten the cabin upon this board, placing

them upon the inside surfaces of the walls, which can be reached by

running your hand through the door openings.

CHAPTER XXIX

DEFINITIONS OF TERMS AND PHRASES

[Illustration: Selection of Books.]

The terms and phrases used in describing the work included in this book

have been arranged alphabetically in this chapter, together with their

definitions. This has been done for the purpose of furnishing a boy with

a handy reference, with definitions in a clear and simple form, covering

only such points as apply to his particular kind of work.

=Abbreviations=

=d= stands for "penny." E. G. 16d stands for sixteen-penny nails (see

page 36).

=I.e.= or =i.e.= stands for "that is."

=E. G.= or =e.g.= stands for "for example."

=Viz.= or =viz.= stands for "namely, to wit."

="= stands for "inch" or "inches." E. G. 2" means two inches.

='= stands for "foot" or "feet." E. G. 2' means two feet.

=etc.= stands for "and so forth."

=Abutting Surface.=--Next or adjoining.

=Animated Animals.=--Animals (such as those used in the back-yard circus)

which are constructed and then given life. In the case of the circus

animals, the boys who enclose themselves in the bodies furnish the

animals with life.

=Bait-stick.=--A stick in a trap, upon which the bait is placed. It is

also known as the trigger.

=Baluster.= See Balustrade.

=Balustrade.=--A series of small spindles or posts (Balusters), to the

tops of which a bar (Hand Rail) is attached, placed along the sides of

stairs and around stair openings. The hand rail is supported at either

end by a post (Newel Post). E. G. See Figs. 71 and 75. Also applied to a

solid wall built up the sides of a stairway and around the stair

openings.

=Batten Door.=--A door formed by joining the boards together with

battens.

=Battens.=--Strips of wood, or cleats, fastened across two or more

boards to hold them together, as in making a cover or door. E. G. See

Figs. 15, 189, and 194.

=Bevel.=--Formed by cutting off the sharp edge of a board or any piece

of work. E. G. See Fig. 28. A tool used for laying out bevels

=Bird's Mouth.=--A notch, V-shaped, or the form of a bird's mouth, cut

in a piece of work. E. G. See Fig. 8.

=Blind-nailing.= See page 34.

=Brace.=--A strip, board, or heavier piece fastened across two or more

pieces to strengthen and steady them; a diagonal strip.

=Bracket.=--A support, generally triangular in shape, screwed or nailed

to a wall or object to hold up such things as shelves and cabinets.

=Broom-wire.=--The fine wire which is bound around brooms to hold the

straw to the end of the broom-stick.

=Bull's-eye.=--The centre ring of a target.

=Butt-joint.=--When the square end of one piece of wood butts or sets

against another piece, the joint formed is known as a butt-joint. The

pieces are not cut into as in the case of making other joints.

=Casings.=--The finishing strips placed around door and window openings.

E. G. See Figs. 85, 88, and 89. They are also known as Trim.

=Chair Rail.=--A narrow board fastened around the walls of a room at a

height equal to that of an ordinary chair-back.

=Chamfer.=--Formed by cutting off the sharp edge of a board. It is much

the same as a bevel (see Fig. 28), but the term is more often applied to

cases where the bevel is stopped, instead of running the entire length

of the edge, and its ends rounded up to meet the square edge of the

board. This form of chamfer is used for ornamental purposes, and is

known as a Stop Chamfer. Figure 29 shows a form of chamfer used in

planing end-wood.

=Cleats.=--Strips of wood fastened to others to strengthen them; or

strips secured to an object for the purpose of supporting a shelf or

drawers. E. G. See Figs. 15 and 148; also descriptions relating to same.

=Clinching Nails.= See page 34.

=Corbelled Brick.=--Several courses (layers) of brick so laid that each

projects a little beyond, or comes a little within, the course below. E.

G. See corbelled chimney for doll-house, Fig. 103, Chapter VI.

=Corner Stone.=--A stone placed in the corner of a foundation.

=Cornucopiæ.=--The plural for cornucopia; made by rolling paper or other

material into the shape of cones or funnels.

=Countersunk.= See Screws on page 36.

=Cross-piece.=--A piece that crosses another; a piece fastened in a

horizontal or oblique position, and extended from one piece to another.

=Cross Section.= See Section.

=Details.=--The parts of which a thing consists; a Detailed Drawing is

usually a working drawing, showing all the parts of a piece of work,

with dimensions marked upon them.

=Diagonal.=--A strip, board, or heavier piece fastened in an oblique, or

slanted, position--used in bracing (see Bracing of Toboggan Platform

Framework, Fig. 310); also a line drawn obliquely to another line,

several lines, or an object.

=Diagonally.=--In a diagonal direction.

=Diameter.=--The distance equal to a straight line passing through the

centre of a circle or a circular object, terminated at both ends by the

circumference, or the curved surface.

=Door Frame.=--The wooden frame built in a door opening for the door to

swing in. For definition of Jambs, Sill, and Head, see Window Frame.

=Door-stops.=--Wooden strips nailed around the Jambs and Head of a door

frame, for the door to swing against, and to make a tight joint between

the door and frame.

=Dovetail-joint.=--A tongue, undercut so as to make it wedge-shaped

(somewhat the shape of a dove's tail), is prepared upon one piece, and a

mortise, the shape and size of this tongue, is cut in the other piece

for it to set into. E. G. See Figs. 209 and 210, and text on page 210,

Chapter XV.

=Dowelling.=--A process of securing together two edges or faces of a

piece of work with pins of wood or metal. Holes are bored in the edges

or faces of the pieces, and wooden pegs are cut to fit them. These pegs

are coated with glue and then driven into place. The edges or faces of

the pieces are also covered with glue, and if the pieces have been

properly planed so as to fit together perfectly, a tight joint will be

obtained when the glue has dried. The work should be clamped until the

glue has dried. E. G. See Fig. 54. For nails used as dowels, see Fig.

357.

=Dowels.=--The pegs or pins used in dowelling.

=Dressed.=--After lumber has been planed at a mill, it is known as

"dressed stuff." A board may be dressed to the proper dimensions, that

is, prepared either by sawing, planing, paring, or scraping.

=Driving Home a Nail.=--The act of applying the finishing strokes of a

hammer upon the head of a nail in driving it into wood (see Driving

Nails, page 32).

=Drop.=--A piece of scenery hung from the Gridiron above the stage. E.

G. See Figs. 331, 332, and 340.

=Elevation.=--A straight Side or End view of an object. E. G. See Fig.

206.

=Em.=--A square type. Used as a unit in measuring type. The letter "m"

in type originally had a square end.

=En.=--A type half an "em" in width.

=End-plate.=--A timber, such as a two-by-four or two-by-six, placed

across the tops of the studs in the end of a framework, for the roof

rafters or the floor joists above to rest upon. E. G. See Fig. 184. When

placed across the studs in the side of a framework it is known as a

Side-plate.

=End-wood.=--Wood which has been cut across the grain and shows the ends

of the grain upon its surface. E. G. The end of a stick.

=Equidistant.=--Equally distant.

=Finishing Nail.=--A nail with a small head used on surfaces to be

exposed, where it is desirable to make as small nail holes as possible.

The finishing nail is very handy for all kinds of small work.

=Fishing.=--An operation where two or more pieces are joined together,

end to end, by means of strips (known as Fish-plates) nailed or screwed

across the joints. It is also known as a Fish-joint, and is a common

form of splice. E. G. See Fig. 183.

=Flange.=--A projecting rim such as the edge of a spool.

=Flush.=--A surface of a board is said to be flush with the surface of

another when those boards are so placed together that the two surfaces

are even, or extend along the same line or plane.

=Font.=--An assortment of type of one size and style, including a

certain number of each letter in the alphabet (large and small),

punctuation marks, and such characters as are necessary in printing.

Spaces and Quads are sold separately.

=Foundation.=--The base upon which a building rests. Usually made of

stone, brick, or posts, and placed below the surface of the ground.

=Gable-end.=--That portion of a wall which extends into the angle formed

by a gable or gambrel roof. E. G. See Figs. 64, 77, 96, and 109.

=Gauge of Tracks.=--The distance between the tracks.

=Grease Paint.=--A paint for the purpose of making-up the face in

preparation for a circus or entertainment of some sort. Prepared of a

composition easily removed, and free from injurious substances.

=Gridiron.=--The framework above the stage from which the scenery drops

are suspended. The framework consists of a series of parallel bars

resembling a gridiron.

=Groove.=--A channel or hollow cut in a piece of wood. In a

tongued-and-grooved board it is the hollow in which the tongue fits.

=Halving.= See Fig. 267; also description on page 259. This joint is

also known as a Halved-joint.

=Hand Rail.= See Balustrade.

=Hem.=--The edge of a piece of cloth doubled over and sewed, to

strengthen it and prevent the threads from ravelling.

=Hexagonal.=--Six-sided.

=Horizontal.=--Parallel to the horizon.

=Hornstone.=--A variety of quartz having the appearance of flint, but

more brittle.

=Kerf.=--The opening, or narrow slot, made in sawing.

=Latch-pocket.= See Spring-catch.

=Lath.=--A strip approximately one and one-half inches wide,

three-eighths of an inch thick, and four feet long. Nailed across the

walls and ceiling of a room upon which to place plaster.

=Locking-up.=--The process of tightening a form of type so as to hold it

together (see description, page 136).

=Longitudinal Section.= See Section.

=Making-up.=--Painting the face as a disguise or to show expression

marks.

=Mitre.=--The end of a board is mitred when cut off at an angle of

forty-five degrees. Although applied to other angles, the term mitre is

understood to mean a forty-five degree cut, unless otherwise stated (see

Bench-hook, Fig. 11, and Mitre-box, Fig. 12, Chapter I; also

descriptions of their use).

=Mitred Try-square.=--Used for laying off mitres (see Figs. 38 and 39,

Chapter II).

=Mortise.=--A slot or cavity made in a piece of wood to receive the end

of another piece. E. G. See Figs. 208, 210, 211, Chapter XV. Bevelled

Mortise.--A mortise with its bottom or sides bevelled. E. G. See Fig.

10, Chapter I.

=Mould.=--Something which serves to give the proper form to an object.

E. G. The mould for shaping a canvas canoe, Fig. 204, Chapter XV.

=Newel Post.= See Balustrade.

=Notch.=--A hollow cut in anything; a nick; an indentation. To

Notch.--To cut in small hollows, as to notch a stick. E. G. See Fig.

191, Chapter XIV, and Fig. 392, Chapter XXVII.

=Obsidian.=--A form of lava.

=On Centres.=--In spacing studs or strips of any kind, they are spoken

of as being placed a certain number of inches on centres. E. G. Twelve

inches on centres means that the distance from the centre of one piece

to the centre of another is twelve inches.

=Out of Plumb.=--Not vertical; not perpendicular to the horizon.

=Out of Square.=--Askew; oblique; not true.

=Parallel.=--Lines or objects are parallel to one another when they have

the same direction, and all corresponding points are equidistant from

one another.

=Perpendicular.=--Vertical; plumb; in an upright position.

=Perspective.=--A perspective is a drawing showing an object in the form

in which it appears to the eye. The lines converge, or approach nearer

together, as they go away from the eye, until they finally meet at a

point on the horizon, or a line drawn to represent the horizon. E. G. In

looking down a railway track the telegraph poles and tracks appear to

run together on the line of the horizon.

=Pica.=--The standard of measurement in printing. A name given to a size

of type which measures one-sixth of an inch high (measured from the

nicked side to the side opposite); and seventy-two ems (see Em) measure

one foot.

=Pie.=--A mixed assortment of type. See page 135, Chapter IX.

=Pieing Type or Making Pie.=--Spilling or mixing up type.

=Pipe-straps.=--Iron straps used mostly by pipe-fitters to fasten

gas-piping in place. E. G. See Figs. 321 and 322.

=Pitch.=--The pitch of a board is the degree to which it has been

tilted.

=Plan.=--A drawing showing a view of an object, looking down upon it,

either on top of it (e. g. see Figs. 205 and 207), or with the upper

portion sliced off (e. g. see Fig. 190. This shows a plan of the

log-cabin at a level of the door and windows, with the upper portion

removed).

=Plank.=--Lumber two inches or more in thickness is known as planks or

planking. Anything of less thickness is known as boards.

=Plumb.=--Perpendicular; vertical; true. An instrument for determining

whether or not an object is plumb (see Fig. 14, Chapter I).

=Proscenium.=--The front portion of a stage. The Proscenium Arch is the

arch or frame extending around the front of the stage of a theatre.

=Pumice Stone.=--A porous rock, of extreme lightness, used for polishing

metals; for smoothing the surface of wood; and for smoothing the surface

of a coat of paint before applying a second coat (see Painting of Canvas

Canoe, page 214).

=Pyrotechnics.=--The art of making fireworks; fireworks; the composition

and use of fireworks.

=Quad.=--An abbreviation for quadrat. A block of type-metal lower than

the type, used for filling out lines, and for spacing between lines. A

2-em quad is two "ems" in width, and a 3-em quad three "ems" in width.

=Quartz.=--Glassy crystals, having the form of a six-sided prism,

terminated at each end by a pyramid. It is colorless, or transparent,

when pure, and more or less opaque and in various colors when impure.

=Quoins.=--The wedges used to tighten or lock-up a form of type. E. G.

See Figs. 155 and 156.

=Rabbet.=--A groove or hollow cut in a piece of work, generally for the

purpose of joining it with some other material. E. G. The sides of the

bow and stern pieces of the Canvas Canoe described in Chapter XV are

rabbeted so the ribbands and the edge of the canvas will fit in them

(see Figs. 200 and 202, Chapter XV).

=Radius.=--The distance from the centre of a circle to any point upon

its circumference. It equals one-half of the length of the diameter.

=Rasp.=--A file with coarse teeth, used for working upon wood.

=Recess.=--A niche in a wall; a space or opening formed by the wall

setting in a little way.

=Reënforce.=--To strengthen; to supply additional strength with strips

or braces.

=Ridge.=--An edge of a roof formed by the meeting of two sloping

surfaces. The top edge of a peaked roof. E. G. See Fig. 192, Chapter

XIV.

=Ridge-boards.=--The boards fastened along the ridge of a roof to cover

the joint. E. G. See Fig. 192, Chapter XIV.

=Right Angle.=--An angle of ninety degrees. At Right Angles.--So as to

form a right angle.

=Rubbing Down.=--Bringing to a smooth surface by rubbing with

sand-paper, emery-paper, or pumice stone.

=Rustic.=--Made of limbs of trees in their natural form.

=Sagging.=--The bending of a body by its own weight, or by a load placed

upon it.

=Sapling.=--A young tree.

=Sash.=--The frame which holds the glass of a window. Also applied to

the frame with the glass in place.

=Scraping.=--A piece of glass or the blade removed from a plane is used

for scraping a piece of work to give it a smoother surface than can be

obtained by using a plane upon it.

=Section.=--A part.

=Section Drawing.=--A drawing made of an object, showing it as it would

look if you were to cut it open or split it in two. The portions which

would have to be cut through, in such an operation, are shaded in a

drawing of this kind. E. G. See Fig. 218, Chapter XV; Fig. 300, Chapter

XXI; and Fig. 316, Chapter XXII.

A Cross Section is a section taken through the short way of an object.

A Longitudinal Section is a section taken through the long way of an

object.

=Selvage.=--The selvage of cloth or wire-mesh is the edge which has

been so woven as to prevent ravelling.

=Semicircle.=--Half a circle.

=Set of a Saw's Teeth.= See page 21, Chapter II.

=Setting Nails.= See page 34, Chapter II.

=Shape it Down.=--A term used to imply that the board or piece of work

shall be gradually cut down until it approaches its finished form and

size.

=Shooting Stick.=--An iron or wooden tool with a head on one end, used

to lock-up the Quoins in a form of type. E. G. See Fig. 155, Chapter IX.

=Sills.=--The lowest horizontal timbers in a building of any kind on

which the structure rests. See also Window Frame.

=Sleepers.=--The timbers supporting the lower floor of a building,

distinguished from joists by being filled in between with cinders or

concrete. E. G. See Fig. 186, Chapter XIII.

=Slip-knot.=--A noose which slips along the line or rope around which it

is tied. E. G. See Fig. 243, Chapter XVII.

=Slot.=--A mortise, or hole, with sides square or nearly so. Made by

boring several holes, and then connecting and squaring them up with a

chisel.

=Space.=--A thin piece of type-metal, lower than the type, used between

words, and for spacing out lines. A 3-em space is a third of an "em" in

width, a 4-em a quarter of an "em" in width, a 5-em a fifth of an "em,"

and an 8-em (known as a hair space) is an eighth of an "em."

=Spike.=--A twentypenny nail (four inches long) and all lengths greater.

See list of sizes on page 36, Chapter II. To Spike a board in place is

to fasten it with spikes.

=Spliced.=--Two pieces are spliced when joined together, generally end

to end, in such a way that they are held together and act as one piece.

E. G. See Fig. 183, Chapter XIII, and Fishing.

=Spring-catch.=--A small lock, such as shown in Figs. 96, 114, and 187.

The latch is operated by a small knob, and is thrown into position by a

small spring. The metal socket which is screwed in place for the latch

to spring into is known as the Latch-pocket.

=Sprint.=--A short race run at full speed.

=Squaring Lines.=--By squaring lines across a board is meant the

operation of drawing lines across a board with a try-square, the head of

the try-square being placed against the tried-edge of the board so those

lines will be at right angles to that tried-edge. E. G. See Fig. 38,

Chapter II.

=Staple.=--A U-shaped piece of metal, with two sharp points which are

driven into wood in the same way as a nail.

=Stock.=--Material; supplies.

The brace which holds the bit for boring; the block which holds the

blade of a plane (see Fig. 24, Chapter II); the portion of a gun which

contains the barrel and trigger.

=Stops.= See Door-stops and Window-stops.

=Strap-hinge.=--A hinge with long arms, or flaps, which extend over a

larger area than those of an ordinary hinge, and give it the power of

withstanding greater strains.

=Studs.=--The smaller pieces of timber used in the framework of a

building, to which the siding is attached, or to which the laths are

nailed. Known also as Studding.

=Stuff.=--In carpenter work this term is applied to the different sizes

of lumber. E. G. Seven-eighths-inch stuff means boards seven-eighths of

an inch thick; two-inch-stuff is lumber two inches thick.

=Stunt.=--Originally a slang word used to denote a trick or feat of some

sort. It is now generally recognized as a legitimate word.

=Swivel.=--A fastening with a pivot which allows the object attached to

it to revolve without twisting the cord, wire, or chain, by which that

object is suspended. E. G. See Fig. 258, Chapter XVIII; and page 249.

=Taper.=--To make gradually smaller in diameter toward one end; to

gradually diminish toward a point.

=Temper.=--Steel and iron tools are given their necessary degree of

hardness by a process of heating and cooling, known as Tempering. Too

much friction obtained while grinding a tool will destroy this temper,

making it necessary to re-temper it.

=Toe-nailing.= See page 33.

=Tongue.=--The projecting edge of a tongued-and-grooved board. A

projecting pin cut on a piece of wood to fit a mortise of the same shape

cut in another piece of wood. Used in making Dovetail-joints. E. G. See

Figs. 208 and 209, Chapter XV.

=Tongued-and-grooved Boards.=--Boards with a groove along one edge and a

tongue along the opposite edge, so that the tongue of one board will fit

in the groove of another, thus forming a fairly tight joint. These

boards are known also as Matched Boards.

=Trench.=--A ditch; a long channel.

=Tried-edge of Work.= See Testing Work, page 28.

=Trim.=--The wooden Casings placed around door and window openings (see

Figs. 85, 88, and 89, Chapter V).

To dress a piece of work; to cut; to make smooth.

=Turnstile.=--A post upon the top of which four horizontal arms are

pivoted to revolve, so as to allow but one person to pass at a time (see

Fig. 266, Chapter XIX, and description of construction on page 259).

=Two-by-four.=--A piece two inches thick by four inches wide used for

supports and the construction of frameworks. Pieces of other dimensions

are also known and spoken of by their sizes in inches. E. G.

Two-by-sixes, two-by-eights, and two-by-tens.

=Typographical.=--Relating or pertaining to typography.

=Typography.=--The art of setting type.

=Undercutting.=--As the term implies, the wood is undercut, or cut

under, thus making it wedge-or V-shaped. E. G. See Fig. 209, Chapter XV;

also text on page 211.

=Upright.=--An upright is a piece of timber which is perpendicular when

in place.

=Valance.=--A drapery for a couch or bed. E. G. See Couch in

illustration of a Boy's Room, Chapter V.

=Vertical.=--Perpendicular to the horizon; upright; plumb; straight up

and down.

=Wainscot.=--A lining placed upon the inside walls of a building. It was

originally made of oak timbers, known as wainscot, but the term is now

applied to any kind of wood, burlap, tapestry, or other material applied

in the same manner. As a rule, it extends but part way up a wall,

starting at the floor line.

=Warped.=--Twisted out of shape.

=Washer.=--A ring placed beneath the head of a bolt to give it a broader

bearing surface, and thus prevent it from cutting into the surface of

the piece of work. It is also placed under a nut to prevent it from

working loose.

=Wedge-shaped.=--V-shaped.

=Window Frame.=--The wooden frame built in the window opening for the

sash to fit into. The Jambs are the sides of this frame, the Sill the

bottom piece upon which the Jambs rest, and the Head the top piece of

the frame. E. G. See Figs. 187 and 188, Chapter XIII, and Fig. 193,

Chapter XIV.

=Window-stops.=--Wooden strips nailed around the Jambs, Head, and Sill

of a window frame to prevent rain and wind from entering between the

sash and its frame.

=Wing.=--A piece of scenery placed at the side of the stage. E. G. See

Figs. 333, 334, 335, 341, and 342, Chapter XXIV.

INDEX

Advertisements for amateur paper, 152;

dummy for, 152.

Advertisers' dummy, 152.

Advertising signs for circus, 271.

Amateur journalism, 142.

Amateur papers, methods of printing, 145;

specimens of, 143, 146, 147, 148, 149, and group opposite 142;

character of, 148;

naming of, 149;

frequency of publication of, 149;

size of page of, 150;

heading for, 150;

choice of type for, 150;

cover for, 151;

binding, 151;

advertisements for, 152;

second-class rates for, 152.

Andirons for doll-house fire-place, 88.

Animals, animated, 261;

cork, _see_ Cork animals.

Animated animals, 261.

Archery, scoring of points in, 235;

position for shooting in, 239.

Arrow-heads, 237;

Indian, 241.

Arrow-shafts, 237;

feathering of, 238;

Indian, 240.

Arrows, shingle, 232.

Ash-sifter, an, 53.

Athletic club, organizing an, 254.

Athletic meets, 254.

Attendants, circus, 269.

Automatic-drill, use of an, 31.

Automobiles, clockwork, 343;

touring-car, 343;

delivery-wagon, 352.

Back-saw, use of the, 24.

Back-yard circus, a, _see_ Circus.

Back-yard club-house, a, _see_ Club-house.

Back-yard toboggan-slide, _see_ Toboggan-slide.

Bailey plane, the, 26.

Ballista, the ancient, 231.

Balustrades, doll-house, 78, 100.

Barrel-hoop target, 234.

Bath-room as a dark-room, a, 155.

Batten door, a, for club-house, 184.

Battles, mimic, with paper soldiers, 276.

Battleships, cardboard, 328.

Beams, deck, for canvas canoe, 210.

Bean-blower, a magazine, 282.

Bedroom as a dark-room, a, 154.

Beds, doll-house, 118;

pine-bough, 198.

Bench-hook, how to make a, 9;

use of a, 24, 29.

Bench-screw, iron and wooden, 5.

Bench-stops, 7.

Bench-vise, how to make the, 5.

Bevel, how to use the, 45.

Bevelling, 30.

Bilge-keels for canvas canoe, 215.

Binding of amateur papers, 151.

"Bird's mouth" cut, 8.

Bits, a rack for, 16;

use of, 31.

Bit-stock, use of, 31;

selection of, 31.

Blacking-case, a, 68.

Blind-nailing, 34.

Blockhouse scene, a, 319.

Book-shelves, 67.

Boring, 30.

Bow and arrow, the, 236.

Bow, length of, 236;

the Indian's, 240.

Bow piece for canvas canoe, 204.

Bow-string, the, 237.

Box trap, the, 221.

Boy about the house, the, 47.

Boy's dark-room, a, 153.

Boy's printing-shop, a, 126.

Boy's room, suggestions for a, 57;

suitable furnishings for a, 57.

Boy's workshop, a, 3.

Braces, deck, for canvas canoe, 211.

Bread-board, how to make a, 54.

Broom and dust-pan rack, a handy, 50.

Bullets, cardboard, 233.

Bunks for log-cabin, 198.

Butt-joint, a, 59.

Button-locks for club-house, 184.

Cabinet, a tool-, 14;

a special tool-, 16;

a curio-, 65.

Cabin, log-, _see_ Log-cabin.

Cages for side show, 260.

Calking cracks, 184.

Camera, profitable work with a, 153.

Camping, pointers for, 199;

utensils for, 199;

=Paint the Machine= to complete it. The photograph (Fig. 375) indicates