Paul next went to Gibraltar. On arriving there, he expressed his
determination to cross the straits; but was given very little
encouragement. He was repeatedly warned against sharks which were
reported numerous in those waters. An English officer took him to the
rear of the place where cattle are killed for the army. This building
abuts on the water, and there, in the clear depth, they could see big,
blue sharks laying for the offal that is thrown from the slaughter
house. Even this sight did not intimidate Paul and he began preparations
for the trip.
At first it was his intention, to paddle from Gibraltar to Ceuta, which
is almost on a straight line across; but on account of the currents,
that course was changed and Tarifa, the lowest land in Europe, was
selected as the starting point, from which place he was confident he
would be able to strike the African coast somewhere. Two gentlemen of
Gibraltar agreed to accompany him and the Spanish felucca, San
Augustine, was chartered for their accommodation, manned by a captain
and crew of five sailors.
On Thursday, March 19th, they sailed from Gibraltar. As they neared the
Spanish side, carrying the American flag, a Spanish gunboat put out and
overhauled them, under the impression they were tobacco smugglers. It
was some time before the officials could be made to understand the
object of the voyage; but finally allowed them to proceed. They arrived
off Tarifa at eleven o'clock at night, and lay to for a couple of hours,
when, as the captain of the felucca refused to start across without
clearance papers, they landed and went into the old, Moorish looking
town and woke up one sleepy official after another; but it was not
until seven o'clock in the morning that clearance was procured.
The danger of this undertaking was by no means confined to sharks alone;
the wind and currents are usually variable. Through the middle of the
strait a current may be considered to set constantly to the eastward,
but on each side, both flood and ebb tides extend to a quarter of a mile
or to two miles from the shore, according to the wind and weather, and
are consequently very irregular.
At 7:30 o'clock Boyton had donned his dress and was ready to take the
water. For the first time in the history of his voyages he took the
unusual precaution against sharks, of screwing sharp steel sword blades
on each end of his double bladed paddle. With these he felt confident
that he could stand up in the water and rip open any shark that
approached him. He also carried a large dagger fastened to his wrist. He
jumped into the sea amidst the enthusiastic cheering of quite a crowd
that had assembled on the beach to see him start. He paddled out to a
rock close by Tarifa lighthouse, said to be the extreme southern point
of Europe, which he touched, turned and waved an adieu to Spain. He was
then fairly launched on his journey, steering southwest in a smooth sea
and calm weather. He was in excellent spirits and fully confident of
success. The southwestern course was taken as he expected to meet the
current setting eastward, which would carry him toward Malabata,
the point he determined to make his port of destination. His
calculation, however, proved to be false, for the current turned out to
be setting from the opposite direction and therefore gradually
conveyed him toward the westward.
Shortly after 8 o'clock Paul was singing as he paddled along and came
very near running into a school of porpoises. A couple of shots were
fired into them from the felucca in order to frighten them away, as it
is generally supposed that sharks are following them up. A few moments
afterward another school appeared astern, when the operation was
repeated with the desired effect. Paul finding that the current was
setting too rapidly westward, turned his course due south and as the
wind was beginning to rise, a small square sail was handed to him; but
as that did not seem to increase his progress to any perceptible degree,
he put it back in the boat after about ten minutes' trial. As he was
passing over Cabezes Shoals the breeze freshened; but he was still
being carried westward. At that stage of the journey, about 9:30, he
hauled up for a moment and partook of a little bread and cheese, and
before resuming work with the paddle he attached a white pocket
handkerchief to a cord about eighteen feet long and fastened one end
to the belt of his waist, allowing the handkerchief to drift astern.
This was another precaution against sharks, as it is well known that
their malevolent impulses are more likely to be excited and their
attacks directed against white objects than any other. His idea was
that a shark attacking the white handkerchief would jerk the cord and
thus give warning of its presence in the rear, in time for him to be
ready with his sword blades.
The wind increasing from the east, Paul again tried the sail, still
steering south, toward Malabata Point; but again found it ineffectual.
He was then about nine miles from Tarifa and though having paddled
constantly, he did not show the slightest signs of fatigue. The
westward current continuing, it looked for a time as though he would be
carried into the Atlantic. He turned his course southeast and fought
against it. At two o'clock, he was passed by the British steamer,
Glenarn, eastward bound, and was loudly cheered by the people on her
deck. At two-thirty o'clock, a very strong breeze with a rapid current
setting eastward, caused a high sea and Boyton had great difficulty in
keeping near the boat, his distance from her increasing every moment
until he disappeared from view altogether. But by dint of hard pulling
on the part of the sailors, for about twenty minutes, he was sighted
more than half a mile to the leeward and sail was hoisted on the felucca
in order to get up to him, which was done after much trouble and
anxiety. The master and crew of the boat then advised him to give up the
attempt to cross, as from their long experience of the straits, they
believed it to be impracticable under existing circumstances; but Boyton
positively refused to give up the undertaking, and forged ahead,
undismayed and in the most hopeful spirits. As it was found impossible
to keep up with him with the aid of the oars alone, the boat's sails
were reefed and hoisted and by steering close hauled, was enabled to
keep nearer him.
At three o'clock, he was about half way across, steering south south
east. The wind continued to increase, and it again seemed as though
he would be carried into the ocean. The sea broke over him constantly
and he suffered greatly from the salt encrusting on his eyebrows and
causing his face to smart. It was nearly five o'clock when he was off
Boassa Point, bearing south and only distant about three and one half
miles from the African coast. He made another attempt to use the sail
but the wind was too strong and he was compelled to give it up. The
current with heavy overfalls, caused him to be constantly taken under
water, and also proved very trying to those in the boat. The overfalls
are caused by two currents rushing in opposite directions, meeting
with a great crash and making a tremendous wave. Paul bravely continued
to paddle despite such dreadful obstacles and at five-thirty o'clock,
he was bearing due south off Alcazar Point two and one half miles. One
hour later, the current was setting to the west again, driving the
voyager and the boat further and further away from the African coast. It
began to grow dark with increasing wind and every sign of a gale coming
on. The boisterous sea and wind, in conjunction with the rapid currents
and heavy over-falls, again caused Boyton to drift away from the boat,
so that those on board soon lost sight of him altogether. After cruising
about in all directions and hailing at the top of their voices, his
friends on board the St. Augustine were relieved by hearing a distant
hail which proved to be a guide to his whereabouts and by proceeding in
the right direction they got up to him; but not without great risk and
very hard work.
On reaching him, the crew became very violent in their language and
conduct and insisted on his getting aboard, as they were all drifting
into the Atlantic Ocean. Boyton, however was firm in his resolve to keep
on until he reached the African coast. Seeing no other way to stop
him, three of the crew leaned over the boat's side and endeavored to
drag him on board by main force. That movement caused Paul to become
greatly excited in his turn. He stood up in the water and with the sword
blade raised and pointing at the crew, he glared at them with blazing
eyes and told them he would rip open the first man that dared to touch
him.
The men took to their oars again. Boyton began to sing, with the
intention of encouraging the men and dissipating their apprehensions.
At seven-thirty o'clock, he was again lost sight of in a heavy overfall,
the current setting to the eastward at a place commonly known as La
Ballesta. He was sighted after the lapse of about twenty minutes. The
increasing darkness and bad state of the weather necessitated harder
work on the part of those on board the boat in order to keep near him.
Clouds gathered fast and a heavy mist partly obscured the moon, which
wore a large circle, called by the sailors a "weather band." Directly
after finding Boyton, those on board of the felucca, were startled by
his cry of "Watch; oh, watch!"
In answer to excited inquiries from on board, he directed that they
should stand by with arms, at the same time calling attention to
the weather side of the boat, where was observed a great commotion in
the water causing a bright, phosphorescent glow, which left no doubt of
the unpleasant proximity of a shark, or some other huge denizen of the
deep. Fears for the safety of Boyton, however, were quickly dispelled by
the disappearance of the creature, whatever it may have been, and all
preparations to give it a warm reception proved needless. Bonfires were
at that time seen at long distances from each other on the African
coast. It was subsequently ascertained that they had been built by
order of Colonel Mathews, the American Consul General at Tagier, as
beacons for Boyton's guidance. A current setting to the westward was
encountered, which drove them in a northwesterly direction and the wind
increased to a gale with a heavy sea. In answer to a hail from the
boat as to whether he had been attacked or needed anything, Boyton
replied: "No, thank you, all's right."
It began to rain and the boat labored, rolling heavily. At 8:30 o'clock
Malabata Point was distant about four miles. The crew was again losing
heart, as matters bore a very serious aspect. For the fourth time they
were obliged to go about and pull in various directions in quest of
Boyton, whom they missed for more than a quarter of an hour.
After nine o'clock the most exciting and anxious moments of the entire
trip were experienced by all concerned. With the wind blowing violently,
the current driving fast to the westward and a high sea increasing every
moment, Paul was lost sight of for nearly forty minutes, in an
unusually heavy overfall. It is not to be wondered at that under these
most trying circumstances, the boat's crew, having nothing to eat, and
exhausted by the fatigues of the day, after pulling about for a
considerable time, should have dropped the oars accompanying the action
with language more forcible than elegant. Happily the cessation of their
labor was of short duration, for they soon yielded to the admonitions
and entreaties of Boyton's friends, who sought by every possible means
to buoy up their spirits, although they, as well as the crew, were of
the opinion that any further attempt to find Paul would be utterly
futile. The joy of all may easily be imagined when they heard the echo
of a distant hail, amid the roaring of the wind and hissing of the
seething water, that once more restored their hope and confidence in
him and announced after all that he had not been lost beyond, recovery.
A little more pulling in the right direction brought the boat alongside
of him, when, despite the entreaties of the crew and the great risks he
was running, he refused to get on board, but continued with undaunted
courage and characteristic firmness in his endeavor to accomplish the
daring task.
Boyton was missed for the last time and found again about 10:30 o'clock.
At that time the severe strain he had imposed upon himself began to be
felt, for when within hearing distance he stated that he had fallen
asleep for a few moments and had been unceremoniously awakened by a
sea breaking over him with such force on the side of the head as almost
to stun him. The crew now expressed their thorough appreciation
and admiration for Boyton's intrepidity and powers of endurance, and
declared he had done as much as to cross the straits three times over in
point of distance; but he persistently turned a deaf ear to their
entreaties to get into the boat. At 11:20 o'clock the bay of Tangier
opened ahead and the force of the current began to abate. They were
rapidly approaching Tangier reef, which was a source of uneasiness to
the boat's crew, who were afraid of being driven on it. They passed
the headland between Tangier and Cape Malabata and were inside the bay
before one o'clock. When within one hundred yards of the outside of a
reef of rocks, forming a natural breakwater, and the landing
place at Tangier, the impracticability of the boat clearing the reef
(toward which the current was driving her) with the aid of the oars
alone became manifest. They therefore advised Boyton to take a line as
they were going to set sail and would tow him around the point, for
otherwise they would inevitably be dashed against the rocks. On further
representing to him that as the tide was high he ran the risk of
fracturing his leg or arm in passing over the slippery obstruction, he
acceded to the request, particularly as he considered that his feat was
accomplished. He accordingly took the end of a line and discontinued
paddling for a short while until they arrived opposite the town, within
three-quarters of a mile from the landing, when he let go and
shaped his course for the beach, the boat standing to the southward and
anchoring.
Boyton emerged from the surf and stood on the beach at 12.55 o'clock.
The moon was shining. Some of the native soldiers were aware that a man
was paddling across the straits; but many were not. One of the guards on
the wall surrounding the city, seeing him come out of the water, set up
a terrific cry in the Arabic tongue. Soon the bells were ringing from
the mosques and a great commotion was evident within the walls of the
city. Paul, not knowing what the natives might do with him, walked down
the beach a short distance and coming upon the upturned hull of a
wrecked vessel, crawled under it. He had scarcely done so, when the gate
to the city opened and a crowd of soldiers and citizens carrying
torches, rushed out. They soon got on his trail and followed it to the
old hulk which they surrounded with wild and discordant cries. In the
midst of all the hubbub, Paul heard a voice calling in English, and he
stepped out to be met by the son of the American Consul, Colonel
Mathews, who explained the cause of Boyton's appearance to the natives.
It was afterward learned that the peculiar cry of alarm given by the
guard on the wall, was:
"Awake, awake. 'Tis better to pray than to sleep, for the devil has
landed in Tangier."
All the explanation, however, did not prevent one of the natives from
running back into the city with the statement that, he had actually seen
a Christian walking on the sea.
When those on the boat heard all the commotion ashore, their anxiety for
Paul was great. They rightly apprehended that the superstitious
feeling of the Moorish guard had been excited at the apparition of so
strange an object emerging from the sea at that advanced hour of the
night, and might lead them to resort to violence.
In answer to Mr. Matthew's invitation to enter the city as his guest,
Paul told him that he must first paddle back to the boat and Mr. Mathews
agreed to meet him there. As soon as he returned to the boat, he was
divested of his rubber dress, when it was found that his under
clothing was completely saturated with salt water. He accounted for it
by the fact that having been so frequently drawn under by the
overfalls, the water had entered at the sides of the face. As soon as
he had been provided with a change of clothing, he began to display
evidences of the most complete prostration, coupled with acute pain in
the wrists and hands which were covered with large blisters, while he
was almost blinded by the action of the salt water on his eyes. A fire
was lighted in the cooking stove on board, but it was long ere Paul
could obtain sufficient warmth to stay the violence of his shiverings.
In due time they were all gladdened by the arrival of the pratique boat
alongside, with Colonel Mathew's son, who took the party to the landing
stage, where Boyton was highly honored by the presence of several
officials who were waiting to offer him a welcome and their
congratulations, for which purpose they had exposed themselves to the
discomforts of a cold and cheerless morning. The time was half past
two. Accommodations were provided for the party at the house of Colonel
Mathews. In company with the Consul General next day, Paul visited
the old Sheriff of Tangier, to whom he was introduced as the water god
of America. The superstitious old Moor looked at Boyton with great
respect and remarked, Colonel Mathews interpreting:
"I am well pleased that the water god has made his appearance on these
shores as there has been a terrible drought here for sometime, and we
are sadly in need of a rainfall to moisten the parched lips of our soil
and I hope the great water god of your country will deign to favor us."
Boyton had been noticing the clouds since morning; his sailor training
told him it would not be long before rain would fall, so he answered the
Sheriff's appeal with a sly wink at the Colonel, as follows:
"The request of the Sheriff is well. I promise that rain will come
before a great while."
Before they left the house, luckily for Paul, it did begin to rain and
the old man was absolutely bewildered with astonishment, having not the
least doubt that the rain had been called by the American. To this day,
the Moors of Tangier tell the story of how the drought was ended by a
wonderful American who came out of the sea one night.
On returning to the Colonel's house, Boyton was waited on by a
delegation of distinguished Moors; old, white bearded fellows, in
turbans and burnouse. Each of them offered a present of some kind. One
of them brought a beautiful pair of Barbary pheasants, another a young
wild pig in a crate; others, quaint arms, and one had a chameleon of a
rare species, which he carried on the twig of a tree. An address of
welcome to Morocco was read by one of their number and then they asked
Paul he would not kindly walk on the water in the daylight for them as
the soldiers had seen him do when he landed, so that all the people
might behold him.
In response to the request, Boyton promised to favor them and on the
following day, he gave a demonstration of what he could do in the
water, much to their enjoyment and surprise.
After the exhibition, he was shown the pleasures of the city. One of his
most interesting experiences was in encountering the great dangers
afforded by a wild boar hunt. Early one morning the hunting party,
headed by Colonel Mathews, mounted on wiry little Arab horses, and
carrying bamboo sticks pointed with a sharp spear, rode over the hills
back of the quaint old city and descended to the desert. They proceeded
for a long distance and chanced on no signs of game. They were
beginning to get somewhat discouraged, when they met a camel train from
Fez. "I will ask some of these people if they have seen any boars on
their way hither," said Colonel Mathews, "but you can place very little
dependence on what they say. They are naturally inclined to
exaggerate." He rode up to the leader of the train and the following
conversation which the Colonel's son translated, took place:
"Mahomet protect my brothers. You came from afar; but your journey will
soon be ended and you will have blissful rest," said the Colonel.
"Allah bless you, master. We are weary and glad to approach our
journey's end," replied the head of the caravan.
"Have you seen the wild boar in your last day's journey?"
"We have, my master, in great numbers, not far from here."
"Good ones?"
"As large as an ass, my master."
"In which direction?"
The Moor responded by raising his hand and solemnly pointing to the
south-east.
After riding in the direction given for an hour or more, the party
halted on the crest of a hill, scanning the desert for game, and
discovered two sickly looking little pigs running across the valley
below.
"Those are not the ones the Moor saw?" said Paul.
"Oh yes, they are. It's a wonder he imagined them so small as an ass,
for it is their national characteristic to exaggerate."
There was rather meager sport in running down and spearing the skinny
little wild pigs, but after it was done the party returned to the city,
as the experienced hunters knew there would be no use looking further
that day.
One place in the queer old Moorish city which Paul never tired of
visiting, was the market. There the Moorish women with covered
faces, squatted on the ground displaying their little bowls of beans,
peas, etc., for sale. The tired camels from the desert were laying with
their noses buried in the sand, taking much needed rest, while their
owners stood about and bartered the goods of which they were possessed.
Once, while walking around the market place with Colonel Mathews, Paul
saw a man seated cross-legged on the ground in the midst of a
circle of merchants, who were deeply interested in the discourse and
gestures of the central figure.
"I'll wager something that I can guess what that fellow is, though I do
not understand Arabic," remarked Paul to the Colonel.
"Well, what is he?" asked the Colonel.
"An auctioneer," triumphantly asserted Boyton.
"Wrong. He is a professional story-teller. He is as imaginative as
Scheherazade and the merchants here are so busy that they always have
time and inclination to listen to his long fairy tales."
After each story the listeners dropped a small coin, valued at one-
twentieth of a cent, into the story-teller's hat.
Another thing that amused Paul was the indiscriminate use the guides
made of the stout sticks they carried, whacking the natives who got
in their way in the narrow streets as mercilessly as they did the asses
they drove.
The women were all heavily veiled, their faces jealously hidden from the
eyes of men, except when some giddy girl with a taste for flirtation
allowed her veil to slip down as if by accident, and one then, as a
general thing, beheld a very pretty countenance.
Returning to Gibraltar, Boyton visited Cadiz, Seville, and the principal
cities of Southern Spain, with extraordinary success, and was the
recipient of continued ovations. While giving exhibitions in those
cities, he concluded to take a run on the Guadalquivir, from St.
Geronime to Seville. It was an uneventful though pleasant trip. His only
adventure was that of being driven back into the water after going
ashore to take observations, by one of the famous Andalusian fighting
bulls that was feeding close by. He completed the journey in three
days--March 29, 30 and 31.
Madrid was again visited on the invitation of the King, and preparations
began for a grand exhibition at Casa de Campo, the royal garden, which
contains a beautiful little lake. A tent was erected on its bank and
every assistance rendered Boyton in preparing for the
entertainment. Several small boats were built for him with which to
illustrate torpedo work in naval warfare. The King took great interest
in the work and in fact in everything American. He treated Paul in the
most affable manner; among other attentions, showing the royal
boat house and was astonished when told that boats, such as his
mahogany ones, that required four men to lift out, were made in America
out of paper, so light that a man could take one of them under his
arm and carry it where he pleased.
On the morning of the exhibition, the finest military band in Madrid was
present. The affair was private, only the notables of the city being
there. When the King, Queen, and members of the royal household arrived,
a signal for the exhibition to begin, was given. In one part of the
entertainment, pigeons are used to illustrate the sending of dispatches.
On that occasion, Paul had procured a pair of beautiful white doves.
One of them when loosed flew away, while the other, bewildered, circled
about and finally lit at the feet of the Queen. The Princess of
Asturas, the King's sister, caught it and handed it to the Queen, who
held and petted it during the rest of the time.
The exhibition was a complete success and at its termination, the King
summoned Paul to land where the royal party was seated, when he
congratulated the hardy navigator, as did also the Queen. As she thanked
him for the pleasure he had given her, Paul said, referring to the
dove that had gone to her feet:
"I hope it will prove a good omen, your Majesty." Turning her wondrously
beautiful, though melancholy black eyes on him, she replied, with a
sad smile:
"I hope so; I hope so."
She then conferred on Paul the order of Hospitaliers of Spain, making
him for a second time a knight. He is the only foreigner ever knighted
by Mercedes during her short reign. The King also presented him with the
Marine Cross of Spain and photographs of himself and Queen.
Before he left Spain the beautiful young Queen was dead. Might not the
erratic action of the dove have been an omen?
Leaving Madrid, Paul appeared in the principal cities of the northern
division of the country and was everywhere received with the usual
cordiality. At Barcelona, he gave an exhibition for the benefit of
several families of fishermen who had been lost in a gale but a short
time before. The fishing folk of Barcelona, as well as those of Northern
France are unlike those in any other part of the world. They are
peculiar in their costumes and characteristics and form a little world
unto themselves. After Paul had given the benefit exhibition, he was
surprised one morning to be summoned from his room. He found the
courtyard of the house full of fisher folk dressed in their holiday
attire, who had appeared to tender him their thanks. An address was
delivered, and he was also presented with a curious, pear-shaped iron
locket, inlaid with gold and silver, that had been made by one of
their number who was a cripple. It was suitably inscribed and of
ingenious workmanship. He values it among his most cherished
possessions.
Toulouse, France, was next visited and a voyage made from that city to
Bordeaux on the Garonne, which occupied six days, from May 19th to the
25th. There was nothing but pleasure on the trip down that beautiful
river, which winds through the rich wine valleys of France. The
greatest hospitality was shown Paul and when his little tender was not
loaded down with flowers, it was filled by his admirers with provisions
and rare wines.
After the Garonne he went to Paris, where his steam yacht, the Paul
Boyton, which he had ordered before departing for the Tagus, was
delivered to him. She was a magnificent little vessel, in which he
intended to sail and steam to India, China and Japan. This was
during the Paris Exposition of 1878, and he remained on board the
yacht, whose dock was at the exposition grounds, most of the time. The
little vessel was always full of distinguished visitors, and many
pleasant excursions were taken up and down the Seine. During that time
Paul became acquainted with the ex-President of Peru, Don Nicholas de
Pierola, then in banishment. They became fast friends, the ex-President
taking much interest in torpedo work, and they frequently made quiet
experiments at isolated places down the river. Before they separated he
assured Paul that if he ever regained his position in Peru, he would
remember their pleasant times aboard the "Paul Boyton," and their
torpedo experiments.
August 12th, Paul began a voyage down the Seine from Nogent-sur-Seine to
Paris, a distance of two hundred miles, which he accomplished in four
days, landing at the Exposition buildings, Champs de Mars, before an
immense concourse of people. The crowds that lined the banks of the
Seine were estimated at half a million by the Figaro. As he passed under
Pont Neuf he stood up and dipped the stars and stripes in salute. A
mighty shout went up from thousands of throats, "Vive l'Amerique, Vive
Boyton."
During November of the same year, he voyaged the Orne from Lou to Caen,
occupying two days. The trip was an uneventful one, and soon after he
returned to America.