CHAPTER 77

Invalid Establishment

Appendix:

Thuggee and the part taken in its Suppression by General Sir W. H.

Sleeman, K.C.B., by Captain J. L. Sleeman

Supplementary Note by the Editor

Additions and Corrections

INDEX

Notes:

1. A blunder for 'Sweepers' and 'Washermen'

2. Chapters 37 to 46, inclusive, are not reprinted in this edition.

3. A mistake. See _post_, Chapter 52, note 1.

EDITOR'S PREFACE (1893)[1]

The _Rambles and Recollections of an Indian Official_, always a

costly book, has been scarce and difficult to procure for many years

past. Among the crowd of books descriptive of Indian scenery,

manners, and customs, the sterling merits of Sir William Sleeman's

work have secured it pre-eminence, and kept it in constant demand,

notwithstanding the lapse of nearly fifty years since its

publication. The high reputation of this work does not rest upon its

strictly literary qualities. The author was a busy man, immersed all

his life in the practical affairs of administration, and too full of

his subject to be careful of strict correctness of style or minute

accuracy of expression. Yet, so great is the intrinsic value of his

observations, and so attractive are the sincerity and sympathy with

which he discusses a vast range of topics, that the reader refuses to

be offended by slight formal defects in expression or arrangement,

and willingly yields to the charm of the author's genial and

unstudied conversation.

It would be difficult to name any other book so full of instruction

for the young Anglo-Indian administrator. When this work was

published in 1844 the author had had thirty-five years' varied

experience of Indian life, and had accumulated and assimilated an

immense store of knowledge concerning the history, manners, and modes

of thought of the complex population of India. He thoroughly

understood the peculiarities of the various native races, and the

characteristics which distinguish them from the nations of Europe;

while his sympathetic insight into Indian life had not orientalized

him, nor had it ever for one moment caused him to forget his position

and heritage as an Englishman. This attitude of sane and

discriminating sympathy is the right attitude for the Englishman in

India.

To enumerate the topics on which wise and profitable observations

will be found in this book would be superfluous. The wine is good,

and needs no bush. So much may be said that the book is one to

interest that nondescript person, the general reader in Europe or

America, as well as the Anglo-Indian official. Besides good advice

and sound teaching on matters of policy and administration, it

contains many charming, though inartificial, descriptions of scenery

and customs, many ingenious speculations, and some capital stories.

The ethnologist, the antiquary, the geologist, the soldier, and the

missionary will all find in it something to suit their several

tastes.

In this edition the numerous misprints of the original edition have

been all, and, for the most part, silently corrected. The extremely

erratic punctuation has been freely modified, and the spelling of

Indian words and names has been systematized. Two paragraphs,

misplaced in the original edition at the end of Chapter 48 of Volume

I, have been removed, and inserted in their proper place at the end

of Chapter 47; and the supplementary notes printed at the end of the

second volume of the original edition have been brought up to the

positions which they were intended to occupy. Chapters 37 to 46 of

the first volume, describing the contest for empire between the sons

of Shâh Jahân, are in substance only a free version of Bernier's work

entitled, _The Late Revolution of the Empire of the Great Mogol_.

These chapters have not been reprinted because the history of that

revolution can now be read much more satisfactorily in Mr.

Constable's edition of Bernier's Travels. Except as above stated, the

text of the present edition of the Rambles and Recollections is a

faithful reprint of the Author's text.

In the spelling of names and other words of Oriental languages the

Editor has 'endeavoured to strike a mean between popular usage and

academic precision, preferring to incur the charge of looseness to

that of pedantry'. Diacritical marks intended to distinguish between

the various sibilants, dentals, nasals, and so forth, of the Arabic

and Sanskrit alphabets, have been purposely omitted. Long vowels are

marked by the sign ^. Except in a few familiar words, such as

Nerbudda and Hindoo, which are spelled in the traditional manner,

vowels are to be pronounced as in Italian, or as in the following

English examples, namely: â, as in 'call'; e, or ê, as the medial

vowel in 'cake'; i, as in 'kill'; î, as the medial vowels in 'keel';

u, as in 'full'; û, as the medial vowels in 'fool'; o, or ô, as in

'bone'; ai, or âi, as 'eye' or 'aye', respectively; and au, as the

medial sound in 'fowl'. Short a, with stress, is pronounced like the

u in 'but'; and if without stress, as an indistinct vowel, like the A

in 'America'.

The Editor's notes, being designed merely to explain and illustrate

the text, so as to render the book fully intelligible and helpful to

readers of the present day, have been compressed into the narrowest

possible limits. Even India changes, and observations and criticisms

which were perfectly true when recorded can no longer be safely

applied without explanation to the India of to-day. The Author's few

notes are distinguished by his initials.

A copious analytical index has been compiled. The bibliography is as

complete as careful inquiry could make it, but it is possible that

some anonymous papers by the Author, published in periodicals, may

have escaped notice.

The memoir of Sir William Sleeman is based on the slight sketch

prefixed to the _Journey through the Kingdom of Oude_, supplemented

by much additional matter derived from his published works and

correspondence, as well as from his unpublished letters and other

papers generously communicated by his only son, Captain Henry

Sleeman. Ample materials exist for a full account of Sir William

Sleeman's noble and interesting life, which well deserves to be

recorded in detail; but the necessary limitations of these volumes

preclude the Editor from making free use of the biographical matter

at his command.

The reproduction of the twenty-four coloured plates of varying merit

which enrich the original edition has not been considered desirable.

The map shows clearly the route taken by the Author in the journey

the description of which is the leading theme of the book.

EDITOR'S PREFACE (1915)

My edition published by Archibald Constable and Company in 1893 being

out of print but still in demand, Mr. Humphrey Milford, the present

owner of the copyright, has requested me to revise the book and bring

it up to date.

This new edition is issued uniform with Mr. Beauchamp's third edition

of _Hindu Manners, Customs, and Ceremonies_ by the Abbé J. A. Dubois

(Oxford: at the Clarendon Press, 1906), a work bearing a strong

resemblance in substance to the _Rambles and Recollections_, and,

also like Sleeman's book in that it 'is as valuable to-day as ever it

was--even more valuable in some respects'.

The labour of revision has proved to be far more onerous than was

expected. In the course of twenty-one years the numerous changes

which have occurred in India, not only in administrative

arrangements, but of various other kinds, necessitate the emendation

of notes which, although accurate when written, no longer agree with

existing facts. The appearance of many new books and improved

editions involves changes in a multitude of references. Such

alterations are most considerable in the annotations dealing with the

buildings at Agra, Sikandara, Fathpur-Sîkrî, and Delhi, and the

connected political history, concerning which much new information is

now available. Certain small misstatements of fact in my old notes

have been put right. Some of those errors which escaped the notice of

critics have been detected by me, and some have been rectified by the

aid of criticisms received from Sir George Grierson, C.I.E., Mr.

William Crooke, sometime President of the Folklore Society, and other

kind correspondents, to all of whom I am grateful. Naturally, the

opportunity has been taken to revise the wording throughout and to

eliminate misprints and typographical defects. The Index has been

recast so as to suit the changed paging and to include the new

matter.

Captain James Lewis Sleeman of the Royal Sussex Regiment has been

good enough to permit the reproduction of his grandfather's portrait,

and has communicated papers which have enabled me to make corrections

in and additions to the Memoir, largely enhancing the interest and

value of that section of the book.

Notes:

1. Certain small changes have been made.

MEMOIR

OF

MAJ.-GEN. SIR WILLIAM HENRY SLEEMAN, K.C.B.

The Sleemans, an ancient Cornish family, for several generations

owned the estate of Pool Park in the parish of Saint Judy, in the

county of Cornwall. Captain Philip Sleeman, who married Mary Spry, a

member of a distinguished family in the same county, was stationed at

Stratton, in Cornwall, on August 8, 1788, when his son William Henry

was born.

In 1809, at the age of twenty-one, William Henry Sleeman was

nominated, through the good offices of Lord De Dunstanville, to an

Infantry Cadetship in the Bengal army. On the 24th of March, in the

same year, he sailed from Gravesend in the ship Devonshire, and,

having touched at Madeira and the Cape, reached India towards the

close of the year. He arrived at the cantonment of Dinapore, near

Patna, on the 20th December, and on Christmas Day began his military

career as a cadet. He at once applied himself with exemplary

diligence to the study of the Arabic and Persian languages, and of

the religions and customs of India. Passing in due course through the

ordinary early stages of military life, he was promoted to the rank

of ensign on the 23rd September, 1810, and to that of lieutenant on

the 16th December, 1814.

Lieutenant Sleeman served in the war with Nepal, which began in 1814

and terminated in 1816. During the campaign he narrowly escaped death

from a violent epidemic fever, which nearly destroyed his regiment.

'Three hundred of my own regiment,' he observes, 'consisting of about

seven hundred, were obliged to be sent to their homes on sick leave.

The greater number of those who remained continued to suffer, and a

great many died. Of about ten European officers present with my

regiment, seven had the fever and five died of it, almost all in a

state of delirium. I was myself one of the two who survived, and I

was for many days delirious.[1]

The services of Lieutenant Sleeman during the war attracted

attention, and accordingly, in 1816, he was selected to report on

certain claims to prize-money. The report submitted by him in

February, 1817, was accepted as 'able, impartial, and satisfactory'.

After the termination of the war he served with his regiment at

Allahabad, and in the neighbouring district of Partâbgarh, where he

laid the foundation of the intimate knowledge of Oudh affairs

displayed in his later writings.

In 1820 he was selected for civil employ, and was appointed Junior

Assistant to the Agent of the Governor-General, administering the

Sâgar and Nerbudda territories. Those territories, which had been

annexed from the Marâthâs two years previously, are now included in

the jurisdiction of the Chief Commissioner of the Central Provinces.

In such a recently-conquered country, where the sale of all widows by

auction for the benefit of the Treasury, and other strange customs

still prevailed, the abilities of an able and zealous young officer

had ample scope. Sleeman, after a brief apprenticeship, received, in

1822, the independent civil charge of the District of Narsinghpur, in

the Nerbudda valley, and there, for more than two years, 'by far the

most laborious of his life', his whole attention was engrossed in

preventing and remedying the disorders of his District.

Sleeman, during the time that he was in charge of the Narsinghpur

District, had no suspicion that it was a favourite resort of Thugs. A

few years later, in or about 1830, he was astounded to learn that a

gang of Thugs resided in the village of Kandêlî, not four hundred

yards from his court-house, and that the extensive groves of Mandêsar

on the Sâgar road, only one stage distant from his head-quarters,

concealed one of the greatest _bhîls_, or places of murder, in all

India. The arrest of Feringheea, one of the most influential Thug

leaders, having given the key to the secret, his disclosures were

followed up by Sleeman with consummate skill and untiring assiduity.

In the years 1831 and 1832 the reports submitted by him and other

officers at last opened the eyes of the superior authorities and

forced them to recognize the fact that the murderous organization

extended over every part of India. Adequate measures were then taken

for the systematic suppression of the evil. 'Thuggee Sleeman' made it

the main business of his life to hunt down the criminals and to

extirpate their secret society. He recorded his experiences in the

series of valuable publications described in the Bibliography. In

this brief memoir it is impossible to narrate in detail the thrilling

story of the suppression of Thuggee, and I must be content to pass on

and give in bare outline the main facts of Sleeman's honourable

career.[2]

While at Narsinghpur, Sleeman received on the 24th April, 1824,

brevet rank as Captain. In 1825, he was transferred, and on the 23rd

September of the following year, was gazetted Captain. In 1826,

failure of health compelled him to take leave on medical certificate.

In March, 1828, Captain Sleeman assumed civil and executive charge of

the Jabalpur (Jubbulpore) District, from which he was transferred to

Sâgar in January, 1831. While stationed at Jabalpur, he married, on

the 21st June, 1829, Amélie Josephine, the daughter of Count Blondin

de Fontenne, a French nobleman, who, at the sacrifice of a

considerable property, had managed to escape from the Revolution. A

lady informs the editor that she remembers Sleeman's fine house at

Jabalpur. It stood in a large walled park, stocked with spotted deer.

Both house and park were destroyed when the railway was carried

through the site.

Mr. C. Eraser, on return from leave in January, 1832, resumed charge

of the revenue and civil duties of the Sâgar district, leaving the

magisterial duties to Captain Sleeman, who continued to discharge

them till January, 1835. By the Resolution of Government dated 10th

January, 1835, Captain Sleeman was directed to fix his head-quarters

at Jabalpur, and was appointed General Superintendent of the

operations for the Suppression of Thuggee, being relieved from every

other charge. In 1835 his health again broke down, and he was obliged

to take leave on medical certificate. Accompanied by his wife and

little son, he went into camp in November, 1835, and marched through

the Jabalpur, Damoh, and Sâgar districts of the Agency, and then

through the Native States of Orchhâ, Datiyâ, and Gwâlior, arriving at

Agra on the 1st January, 1836. After a brief halt at Agra, he

proceeded through the Bharatpur State to Delhi and Meerut, and thence

on leave to Simla. During his march from Jabalpur to Meerut he amused

himself by keeping the journal which forms the basis of the _Rambles

and Recollections of an Indian Official_. The manuscript of this work

(except the two supplementary chapters) was completed in 1839, though

not given to the world till 1844. On the 1st of February, 1837, in

the twenty-eighth year of his service, Sleeman was gazetted Major.

During the same year he made a tour in the interior of the Himalayas,

which he described at length in an unpublished journal. Later in the

year he went down to Calcutta to see his boy started on the voyage

home.

In February, 1839, he assumed charge of the office of Commissioner

for the Suppression of Thuggee and Dacoity. Up to that date the

office of Commissioner for the Suppression of Dacoity had been

separate from that of General Superintendent of the measures for the

Suppression of Thuggee, and had been filled by another officer, Mr.

Hugh Eraser, of the Civil Service. During the next two years Sleeman

passed much of his time in the North-Western Provinces, now the Agra

Province in the United Provinces of Agra and Oudh, making Murâdâbâd

his head-quarters, and thoroughly investigating the secret criminal

organizations of Upper India.

In 1841 he was offered the coveted and lucrative post of Resident at

Lucknow, vacant by the resignation of Colonel Low; but that officer,

immediately after his resignation, lost all his savings through the

failure of his bankers, and Sleeman, moved by a generous impulse,

wrote to Colonel Low, begging him to retain the appointment.

Sleeman was then deputed on special duty to Bundêlkhand to

investigate the grave disorders in that province. While at Jhânsî in

December, 1842, he narrowly escaped assassination by a dismissed

Afghan sepoy, who poured the contents of a blunderbuss into a native

officer in attendance.[3]

During the troubles with Sindhia which culminated in the battle of

Mahârâjpur, fought on the 29th December, 1843, Sleeman, who had

become a Lieut.-Colonel, was Resident at Gwâlior, and was actually in

Sindhia's camp when the battle unexpectedly began. In 1848 the

Residency at Lucknow again fell vacant, and Lord Dalhousie, by a

letter dated 16th September, offered Sleeman the appointment in the

following terms:

The high reputation you have earned, your experience of civil

administration, your knowledge of the people, and the qualifications

you possess as a public man, have led me to submit your name to the

Council of India as an officer to whom I could commit this important

charge with entire confidence that its duties would be well

performed. I do myself, therefore, the honour of proposing to you to

accept the office of Resident at Lucknow, with especial reference to

the great changes which, in all probability, will take place.

Retaining your superintendency of Thuggee affairs, it will be

manifestly necessary that you should be relieved from the duty of the

trials of Thugs usually condemned at Lucknow.

In the hope that you will not withhold from the Government your

services in the capacity I have named, and in the further hope of

finding an opportunity of personally making your acquaintance,

I have the honour to be,

Dear Colonel Sleeman,

Very faithfully yours,

DALHOUSIE.[4]

The remainder of Sleeman's official life, from January, 1849, was

spent in Oudh, and was chiefly devoted to ceaseless and hopeless

endeavours to reform the King's administration and relieve the

sufferings of his grievously oppressed subjects. On the 1st of

December, 1849, the Resident began his memorable three months' tour

through Oudh, so vividly described in the special work devoted to the

purpose. The awful revelations of the _Journey through the Kingdom of

Oude_ largely influenced the Court of Directors and the Imperial

Government in forming their decision to annex the kingdom, although

that decision was directly opposed to the advice of Sleeman, who

consistently advocated reform of the administration, while

deprecating annexation. His views are stated with absolute precision

in a letter written in 1854 or 1855, and published in _The Times_ in

November, 1857:

We have no right to annex or confiscate Oude; but we have a right,

under the treaty of 1837, to take the management of it, but not to

appropriate its revenues to ourselves. We can do this with honour to

our Government and benefit to the people. To confiscate would be

dishonest and dishonourable. To annex would be to give the people a

government almost as bad as their own, if we put our screw upon them

(_Journey_, ed. 1858, vol. i, Intro., p. xxi).

The earnest efforts of the Resident to suppress crime and improve the

administration of Oudh aroused the bitter resentment of a corrupt

court and exposed his life to constant danger. Three deliberate

attempts to assassinate him at Lucknow are recorded.

The first, in December, 1851, is described in detail in a letter of

Sleeman's dated the 16th of that month, and less fully by General

Hervey, in _Some Records of Crime_, vol. ii, p. 479. The Resident's

life was saved by a gallant orderly named Tîkarâm, who was badly

wounded. Inquiry proved that the crime was instigated by the King's

moonshee.

The second attempt, on October 9, 1853, is fully narrated in an

official letter to the Government of India (Bibliography, No. 15).

Its failure may be reasonably ascribed to a special interposition of

Providence. The Resident during all the years he had lived at Lucknow

had been in the habit of sleeping in an upper chamber approached by a

separate private staircase guarded by two sentries. On the night

mentioned the sentries were drugged and two men stole up the stairs.

They slashed at the bed with their swords, but found it empty,

because on that one occasion General Sleeman had slept in another

room.

The third attempt was not carried as far, and the exact date is not

ascertainable, but the incident is well remembered by the family and

occurred between 1853 and 1856. One day the Resident was crossing his

study when, for some reason or another, he looked behind a curtain

screening a recess. He then saw a man standing there with a large

knife in his hand. General Sleeman, who was unarmed, challenged the

man as being a Thug. He at once admitted that he was such, and under

the spell of a master-spirit allowed himself to be disarmed without

resistance. He had been employed at the Residency for some time,

unsuspected.

Such personal risks produced no effect on the stout heart of Sleeman,

who continued, unshaken and undismayed, his unselfish labours.

In 1854 the long strain of forty-five years' service broke down

Sleeman's strong constitution. He tried to regain health by a visit

to the hills, but this expedient proved ineffectual, and he was

ordered home. On the 10th of February, 1856, while on his way home on

board the Monarch, he died off Ceylon, at the age of sixty-seven, and

was buried at sea, just six days after he had been granted the

dignity of K.C.B.

Lord Dalhousie's desire to meet his trusted officer was never

gratified. The following correspondence between the Governor-General

and Sleeman, now published for the first time, is equally creditable

to both parties:

BARRACKPORE PARK,

January 9th, 1856.

MY DEAR GENERAL SLEEMAN,

I have heard to-day of your arrival in Calcutta, and have heard at

the same time with sincere concern that you are still suffering in

health. A desire to disturb you as little as possible induces me to

have recourse to my pen, in order to convey to you a communication

which I had hoped to be able to make in person.

Some time since, when adjusting the details connected with my

retirement from the Government of India, I solicited permission to

recommend to Her Majesty's gracious consideration the names of some

who seemed to me to be worthy of Her Majesty's favour. My request was

moderate. I asked only to be allowed to submit the name of one

officer from each Presidency. The name which is selected from the

Bengal army was your own, and I ventured to express my hope that Her

Majesty would be pleased to mark her sense of the long course of

able, and honourable, and distinguished service through which you had

passed, by conferring upon you the civil cross of a Knight Commander

of the Bath.

As yet no reply has been received to my letter. But as you have now

arrived at the Presidency, I lose no time in making known to you what

has been done; in the hope that you will receive it as a proof of the

high estimation in which your services and character arc held, as

well by myself as by the entire community of India.

I beg to remain,

My dear General,

Very truly yours,

DALHOUSIE.

Major-General Sleeman.

Reply to above. Dated 11th January, 1856.

MY LORD,

I was yesterday evening favoured with your Lordship's most kind and

flattering letter of the 9th instant from Barrackpore.

I cannot adequately express how highly honoured I feel by the

mention that you have been pleased to make of my services to Her

Majesty the Queen, and how much gratified I am by this crowning act

of kindness from your Lordship in addition to the many favours I have

received at your hands during the last eight years; and whether it

may, or may not, be my fate to live long enough to see the honourable

rank actually conferred upon me, which you have been so considerate

and generous as to ask for me, the letter now received from your

Lordship will of itself be deemed by my family as a substantial

honour, and it will so preserved, I trust, by my son, with feelings

of honest pride, at the thought that his father had merited such a

mark of distinction from so eminent a statesman as the Marquis of

Dalhousie.

My right hand is so crippled by rheumatism that I am obliged to make

use of an amanuensis to write this letter, and my bodily strength is

so much reduced, that I cannot hope before embarking for England to

pay my personal respects to your Lordship.

Under these unfortunate circumstances, I now beg to take my leave of

your Lordship; to offer my unfeigned and anxious wishes for your

Lordship's health and happiness, and with every sentiment of respect

and gratitude, to subscribe myself,

Your Lordship's most faithful and

Obedient servant,

W. H. SLEEMAN,

Major-General.

To the Most Noble

The Marquis of Dalhousie, K.T.,

Governor-General, &c., &c.,

Calcutta.

Sir William Sleeman was an accomplished Oriental linguist, well

versed in Arabic, Persian, and Urdu, and also in possession of a good

working knowledge of Latin, Greek, and French. His writings afford

many proofs of his keen interest in the sciences of geology,

agricultural chemistry, and political economy, and of his intelligent

appreciation of the lessons taught by history. Nor was he insensible

to the charms of art, especially those of poetry. His favourite

authors among the poets seem to have been Shakespeare, Milton, Scott,

Wordsworth, and Cowper. His knowledge of the customs and modes of

thought of the natives of India, rarely equalled and never surpassed,

was more than half the secret of his notable success as an

administrator. The greatest achievement of his busy and unselfish

life was the suppression of the system of organized murder known as

Thuggee, and in the execution of that prolonged and onerous task he

displayed the most delicate tact, the keenest sagacity, and the

highest power of organization.

His own words are his best epitaph: 'I have gone on quietly,' he

writes, '"through evil and through good report", doing, to the best

of my ability, the duties which it has pleased the Government of

India, from time to time, to confide to me in the manner which

appeared to me most conformable to its wishes and its honour,

satisfied and grateful for the trust and confidence which enabled me

to do so much good for the people, and to secure so much of their

attachment and gratitude to their rulers.' [5]

His grandson. Captain J. L. Sleeman, who, when stationed in India

from 1903 to 1908, visited the scenes of his grandfather's labours,

states that everywhere he found the memory of his respected ancestor

revered, and was given the assurance that no Englishman had ever

understood the native of India so well, or removed so many oppressive

evils as General Sir W. H. Sleeman, and that his memory would endure

for ever in the Empire to which he devoted his life's work.

This necessarily meagre account of a life which deserves more ample

commemoration may be fitly closed by a few words concerning the

relatives and descendants of Sir William Sleeman.

His sister and regular correspondent, to whom he dedicated the

_Rambles and Recollections_, was married to Captain Furse, R.N.

His brother's son James came out to India in 1827, joined the 73rd

Regiment of the Bengal Army, was selected for employment in the

Political Department, and was thus enabled to give valuable aid in

the campaign against Thuggee. In due course he was appointed to the

office of General Superintendent of the Operations against Thuggee,

which had been held by his uncle. He rose to the rank of Colonel, and

after a long period of excellent service, lived to enjoy nearly

thirty years of honourable retirement. He died at his residence near

Ross in 1899 at the age of eighty-one.

In 1831 Sir William's only son, Henry Arthur, was gazetted to the

16th (Queen's) Lancers, and having retired early from the army, with

the rank of Captain, died in 1905.

His elder son William Henry died while serving with the Mounted

Infantry during the South African War. His younger son, James Lewis,

a Captain in the Royal Sussex Regiment, who also saw active service

during the war, and was mentioned in dispatches, has a distinguished

African and Indian record, and recently received the honorary degree

of M.A. from the Belfast University for good work done in

establishing the first Officers' Training Corps in Ireland. The

family of Captain James Lewis Sleeman consists of two sons and a

daughter, namely, John Cuthbert, Richard Brian, and Ursula Mary.

Captain Sleeman, as the head of his family, possesses the MSS. &c. of

his distinguished grandfather. The two daughters of Sir William who

survived their father married respectively Colonel Dunbar and Colonel

Brooke.

Notes:

1. _Journey through the Kingdom of Oude_, vol. ii, p. 105.

2. The general reader may consult with advantage Meadows Taylor, _The

Confessions of a Thug_, the first edition of which appeared in 1839;

and the vivid account by Mark Twain in _More Tramps Abroad_, chapters

49,50.

3. The incident is described in detail in a letter dated December 18,

1842, from Sleeman to his sister Mrs. Furse. Captain J. L. Sleeman

has kindly furnished me with a copy of the letter, which is too long

for reproduction in this place.

4. This letter is printed in full in the _Journey through the Kingdom

of Oude_, pp. xvii-xix.

5. Letter to Lord Hardinge, dated Jhansee, 4th March, 1848, printed

in _Journey through the Kingdom of Oude_, vol. i, p. xxvii.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

OF THE

WRITINGS OF

MAJOR-GENERAL SIR W. H. SLEEMAN, K.C.B.

_I.--PRINTED_

(1.) 1819 Pamphlet.

Letter addressed to Dr. Tytler, of Allahabad, by Lieut. W. H.

Sleeman, August 20th, 1819.

Copied from the _Asiatic Mirror_ of September the 1st, 1819.

[This letter describes a great pestilence at Lucknow in 1818, and

discusses the theory that cholera may be caused by 'eating a certain

kind of rice'.]

(2.) Calcutta, 1836, 1 vol. 8vo.

_Ramaseeana_, or a Vocabulary of the Peculiar Language used by the

Thugs, with an Introduction and Appendix descriptive of the Calcutta

system pursued by that fraternity, and of the measures which have

been adopted by the Supreme Government of India for its suppression.

Calcutta, G. H. Huttmann, Military Orphan Press, 1836.

[No author's name on title-page, but most of the articles are signed

by W. H. Sleeman.]

Appendices A to Z, and A.2, contain correspondence and copious

details of particular crimes, pp. 1-515. Total pages (v,+270+515)

790.

A very roughly compiled and coarsely printed collection of valuable

documents. [A copy in the Bodleian Library and two copies in the

British Museum. One copy in India Office Library.]

(2a.) Philadelphia 1839, 1 vol. 8vo.

The work described as follows in the printed Catalogue of Printed

Books in the British Museum appears to be a pirated edition of

_Ramaseeana_:

_The Thugs or Phansîgars of India: comprising a history of the rise

and progress of that extraordinary fraternity of assassins; and a

description of the system which it pursues, &c._

Carey and Hart. Philadelphia, 1839. 8vo.

A Hindustani MS. in the India Office Library seems to be the

original of the vocabulary and is valuable as a guide to the spelling

of the words.

(3.) (?)1836 or 1837, Pamphlet.

On the Admission of Documentary Evidence.

_Extract._

[This reprint is an extract from _Ramaseeana_. The rules relating to

the admission of evidence in criminal trials are discussed. 24

pages.]

(4.) 1837, Pamphlet.

Copy of a Letter

which appeared in the _Calcutta Courier_ of the 29th March, 1837,

under the signature of 'Hirtius', relative to the Intrigues of Jotha

Ram.

[This letter deals with the intrigues and disturbances in the Jaipur

(Jyepoor) State in 1835, and the murder of Mr. Blake, the Assistant

to the Resident. (See post, chap, 67, end.) The reprint is a pamphlet

of sixteen pages. At the beginning reference is made to a previous

letter by the author on the same subject, which had been inserted in

the _Calcutta Courier_ in November, 1836.]

(5.) Journal of Asiatic Society of Bengal, vol. vi. (1837), p. 621.

_History of the Gurha Mundala Rajas, by Captain W. H. Sleeman._

[An elaborate history of the Gond dynasty of Garhâ Mandlâ, 'which is

believed to be founded principally on the chronicles of the Bâjpai

family, who were the hereditary prime ministers of the Gond princes.'

(_Central Provinces Gazetteer,_ 1870, p. 282, note.) The history is,

therefore, subject to the doubts which necessarily attach to all

Indian family traditions.]

(6.) W. H. Sleeman. _Analysis and Review of the Peculiar Doctrines of

the Ricardo or New School of Political Economy._

8vo, Serampore, 1837.

[A copy is entered in the printed catalogue of the library of the

Asiatic Society of Bengal.]

(7.) Calcutta (Serampore), 1839, 8vo.

A REPORT on THE SYSTEM OF MEGPUNNAISM,

or

The Murder of Indigent Parents for their Young Children (who are sold

as Slaves) as it prevails in the Delhi Territories, and the Native

States of Rajpootana, Ulwar, and Bhurtpore.

By Major W. H. Sleeman.

----

From the Serampore Press.

1839.

[Thin 8vo, pp. iv and 121.

A very curious and valuable account of a little-known variety of

Thuggee, which possibly may still be practised. Copies exist in the

British Museum and India Office Libraries, but the Bodleian has not a

copy.]

(8.) Calcutta, 1840, 8vo.

REPORT ON THE DEPREDATIONS COMMITTED BY THE THUG GANGS of UPPER AND

CENTRAL INDIA,

From the Cold Season of 1836-7, down to their Gradual Suppression,

under the operation of the measures adopted against them by the

Supreme Government in the year 1839.

By Major Sleeman

_Commissioner for the Suppression of Thuggee and Dacoitee._

Calcutta:

G. H. Huttmann, Bengal Military Orphan Press.

1840.

[Thick 8vo, pp. lviii, 549 and xxvi.

The information recorded is similar to that given in the earlier

_Ramaseeana_ volume. Pages xxv-lviii, by Captain N. Lowis, describe

River Thuggee. Copies in the British Museum and India Office, but

none in the Bodleian. This is the only work by Sleeman which has an

alphabetical index.]

(9.) Calcutta 1841, 8vo.

On the SPIRIT OF MILITARY DISCIPLINE

in our

NATIVE INDIAN ARMY.

By Major N.[_sic_] H. Sleeman, Bengal Native Infantry.

'Europaeque saccubuit Asia.'

'The misfortune of all history is, that while the motives of a few

princes and leaders in their various projects of ambition are

detailed with accuracy, the motives which crowd their standards with

military followers are totally overlooked.'--_Malthus._

Calcutta:

Bishop's College Press.

M.DCCC.XLI.

[Thin 8vo. Introduction, pp. i-xiii; On the Spirit of Military

Discipline in the Native Army of India, pp. 1-59; page 60 blank;

Invalid Establishment, pp. 61-84. The text of these two essays is

reprinted as chapters 28 and 29 of vol. ii of _Rambles and

Recollections_ in the original edition, corresponding to Chapters 21

and 22 of the edition of 1893 and Chapters 76, 77 of this (1915)

edition. Most of the observations in the Introduction are utilized in

various places in that work. The author's remark in the Introduction

to these essays--'They may never be published, but I cannot deny

myself the gratification of printing them'--indicates that, though

printed, they were never published in their separate form. The copy

of the separately printed tract which I have seen is that in the

India Office Library. Another is in the British Museum. The pamphlet

is not in the Bodleian.]

(10.) 1841 Pamphlet.

MAJOR SLEEMAN

on the

PUBLIC SPIRIT of THE HINDOOS.

_From the Transactions of the Agricultural and Horticultural

Society,_ vol. 8.

Art. XXII, _Public Spirit among the Hindoo Race as indicated in

the flourishing condition of the Jubbulpore District in former times,

with a sketch of its present state: also on the great importance of

attending to Tree Cultivation and suggestions for extending it. By

Major Sleeman, late in charge of the Jubbulpore District._

[Read at the Meeting of the Society on the 8th September, 1841.]

[This reprint is a pamphlet of eight pages. The text was again

reprinted verbatim as Chapter 14 of vol. 2 of the _Rambles and

Recollections_ in the original edition, corresponding to Chapter 7 of

the edition of 1893, and Chapter 62 of this (1915) edition. No

contributions by the author of later date than the above to any

periodical have been traced. In a letter dated Lucknow, 12th January,

1853 (_Journey,_ vol. 2, p. 390) the author says-'I was asked by Dr.

Duff, the editor of the _Calcutta Review,_ before he went home, to

write some articles for that journal to expose the fallacies, and to

counteract the influences of this [_scil_. annexationist] school; but

I have for many years ceased to contribute to the periodical papers,

and have felt bound by my position not to write for them.']

(11.) London, 1844, 2 vols. large 8vo.

RAMBLES AND RECOLLECTIONS OF AN INDIAN OFFICIAL

by

Lieutenant-Colonel W. H. Sleeman, of the Bengal Army.

'The proper study of mankind is man.'--POPE.

In Two Volumes.

London:

J. Hatchard and Son, 187, Piccadilly.

1844.

[Vol. I, pp. v and 478. Frontispiece, in colours, a portrait of 'The

late Emperor of Delhi', namely, Akbar II. At end of volume, six full-

page coloured plates, numbered 25-30, viz. No. 25, 'Plant'; No. 26,

'Plant'; No. 27, 'Plant'; No. 28, 'Ornament'; No. 29, 'Ornament'; No.

30, 'Ornaments'.

Vol. 2, pp. vii and 459. Frontispiece, in colours, comprising five

miniatures; and Plates numbered 1-24, irregularly inserted, and with

several misprints in the titles.

The three notes printed at the close of the second volume were

brought up to their proper places in the edition of 1893, and are

there retained in this (1915) edition. The following paragraph is

prefixed to these notes in the original edition: 'In consequence of

this work not having had the advantage of the author's

superintendence while passing through the press, and of the

manuscript having reached England in insulated portions, some errors

and omissions have unavoidably taken place, a few of which the

following notes are intended to rectify or supply.' The edition of

1844 has been scarce for many years,]

(11a.) Lahore 1888, 2 vols. in one 8vo.

RAMBLES AND RECOLLECTIONS, &o.

(Title as in edition of 1844.)

Republished by A. C, Majumdar.

Lahore:

Printed at the Mufid-i-am Press.

1888.

[Vol. 1, pp. xi and 351. Vol. 2, pp. v and 339. A very roughly

executed reprint, containing many misprints. No illustrations. This

reprint is seldom met with.]

(11b.) Westminster, 1893, 2 vols. in 8vo.

RAMBLES AND RECOLLECTIONS, &c.

A New Edition, edited by Vincent Arthur Smith, I.C.S.; being vol. 5

of Constable's Oriental Miscellany. The book is now scarce.

(12.) Calcutta, 1849.

REPORT

On

BUDHUK

Alias

BAGREE DECOITS

and other

GANG ROBBERS BY HEREDITARY PROFESSION,

and on

The Measures adopted by the Government of India

for their Suppression.

By Lieut.-Col. W. H. Sleeman, Bengal Army.

Calcutta:

J. C. Sherriff, Bengal Military Orphan Press.

1849.

[Folio, pp. iv and 433. Map. Printed on blue paper. A valuable work.

In their Dispatch No. 27, dated 18th September, 1850, the Honourable

Court of Directors observe that 'This Report is as important and

interesting as that of the same able officer on the Thugs'. Copies

exist in the British Museum and India Office Libraries, but there is

none in the Bodleian. The work was first prepared for press in 1842

(Journey, vol. 1, p, xxvi).]

(13.) 1852, Plymouth, Pamphlet.

AN ACCOUNT of WOLVES NURTURING CHILDREN IN THEIR DENS.

By an Indian Official.

Plymouth:

Jenkin Thomas, Printer,

9, Cornwall Street.

1852.

[Octavo pamphlet. 15 pages. The cases cited are also described in the

_Journey through the Kingdom of Oude_, and are discussed in V. Ball,

_Jungle Life in India_ (De la Rue, 1880), pp. 454-66. The only copy

known to me is that in possession of the author's grandson.]

(14.)Lucknow, 1852.

Sir William Sleeman printed his _Diary of a Journey through Oude_

privately at a press in the Residency. He had purchased a small

press and type for the purpose of printing it at his own house, so

that no one but himself and the compositor might see it. He intended,

if he could find time, to give the history of the reigning family in

a third volume, which was written, but has never been published. The

title is: Diary of a Tour through Oude in December, 1849, and January

and February, 1850.

By The Resident

Lieutenant-Colonel W. H. Sleeman.

Printed at Lucknow in a Parlour Press.

1852.

Two vols. large 8vo. with wide margins. Printed well on good paper.

Vol. 1 has map of Oude, 305 pp. text, and at end a printed slip of

errata. Vol. 2 has 302 pp. text, with a similar slip of errata. The

brief Preface contains the following statements:

'I have had the Diary printed at my own expense in a small parlour

press which I purchased, with type, for the purpose. . . . The Diary

must for the present be considered as an official document, which may

be perused, but cannot be published wholly or in part without the

sanction of Government previously obtained.' [1]

Eighteen copies of the Diary were so printed and were coarsely bound

by a local binder. Of these copies twelve were distributed as

follows, one to each person or authority: Government, Calcutta; Court

of Directors; Governor-General; Chairman of Court of Directors;

Deputy Chairman; brother of author; five children of author, one each

(5); Col. Sykes, Director E.I.C.

A Memorandum of Errata was put up along with some of the copies

distributed. (_Private Correspondence,_ Journey, _vol._ 2, _pp._ 357,

393, _under dates 4 April, 1852, and 12 Jan., 1853._) The Bodleian

copy, purchased in June, 1891, was that belonging to Mrs, (Lady)

Sleeman, and bears her signature 'A. J. Sleeman' on the fly-leaf of

each volume. The book was handsomely bound in morocco or russia, with

gilt edges, by Martin of Calcutta. The British Museum Catalogue does

not include a copy of this issue. The India Office Library has a copy

of vol. 1 only. Captain J. L. Sleeman has both volumes.

(15.) 1853, Pamphlet.

Reprint of letter No. 34 of 1853 from the author to J, P. Grant,

Esq., Officiating Secretary to the Government of India, Foreign

Department, Fort William. Dated Lucknow Residency, 12th October,

1853.

[Six pages. Describes another attempt to assassinate the author on

the 9th October, 1853. See ante, p. xxvi.]

(16.) London 1858, 2 vols. 8vo.

_A Journey through the Kingdom of Oude, in 1849-50, by direction of

the Right Hon. the Earl of Dalhousie, Governor-General._

With Private Correspondence relative to the Annexation of Oude to

British India, &c.

By Major-General Sir W. H. Sleeman, K.C.B., Resident at the Court of

Lucknow.

In two Volumes.

London:

Richard Bentley, Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty. 1858.

[Small 8vo. Frontispiece of vol. 1 is a Map of the Kingdom of Oude.

The contents of vol. 1 are: Title, preface, and contents, pp. i-x;

Biographical Sketch of Major-General Sir W. H. Sleeman, K.C.B., pp.

xi-xvi; Introduction, pp. xvii-xxii; Private Correspondence preceding

the Journey through the Kingdom of Oude, pp. xxiii-lxxx; Diary of a

Tour through Oude, chapters i-vi, pp. 1-337. The contents of vol. 2

are: Title and contents, pp. i-vi; Diary of a Tour through Oude, pp.

1-331; Private Correspondence relating to the Annexation of the

Kingdom of Oude to British India, pp. 332-424. The letters printed in

this volume were written between 5th Dec., 1849, and 11th Sept.,

1854, during and after the Tour. The dates of the letters in the

first volume extend from 20th Feb., 1848, to 11th Oct., 1849. The

Tour began on 1st Dec., 1849, The book, though rather scarce, is to

be found in most of the principal libraries, and may be obtained from

time to time.]

_II.--UNPUBLISHED MANUSCRIPTS_

(1.) 1809.

Two books describing author's voyage to India round the Cape.

(2.) 1837.

Journal of a Trip from Simla to Gurgoohee.

[Referred to in unpublished letters dated 5th and 30th August, 1837.]

(3.) _Circa_1824.

Preliminary Observations and Notes on Mr. Molony's Report on

Narsinghpur.

[Referred to in _Central Provinces Gazetteer_, Nâgpur, 2nd ed., 1870,

pp. xcix, cii, &c. The papers seem to be preserved in the record room

at Narsinghpur.]

(4.) 1841.

History of Byza Bae (Baiza Bâî).

[Not to be published till after author's death. See unpublished

_letter dated Jhânsî,_ Oct. 22nd, 1841.]

(5.)

History of the Reigning Family of Oude.

[Intended to form a third volume of the _Journey._ See Author's

_Letter to Sir James Weir Hogg, Deputy Chairman, India House,_ dated

Lucknow, 4th April, 1852; printed in _Journey,_ vol. 2, p. 358.]

The manuscripts Nos. 1, 2, 4, and 5, and the printed papers Nos. 1,

3, 4, 10, 13, and 15, are in the possession of Captain J, L. Sleeman,

Royal Sussex Regiment, grandson of the author. The India Office

Library possesses copies of the printed works Nos. 2, 7, 8, 9, 11a,

12, 14 (vol. 1 only) and 16.

Notes:

1. The book was written in 1851, and the Directors' permission to

publish was given in December, 1852. (_Journey,_ ii, pp. 358, 393,

ed. 1858. The Preface to that ed. wrongly indicates December, 1851,

as the date of that permission.)

COMPARATIVE TABLE OF CHAPTERS

_Edition_ 1844. _Edition_ 1893. _Edition_

1915.

Vol. 1, chap. 1-36 Vol. 1, chap. 1-36 Chap. 1-36

" " 37-46 " " 37-46 titles only " 37-46

titles only

" " 47,48 " " 47,48 " 47,48

Vol. 2, " 1 " " 49 " 49

" " 2 " " 50 " 50

" " 3 " " 51 " 51

" " 4 " " 52 " 52

" " 5 " " 53 " 53

" " 6 " " 54 " 54

" " 7 " " 55 " 55

" " 8 Vol. 2 " 1 " 56

" " 9 " " 2 " 57

" " 10 " " 3 " 58

" " 11 " " 4 " 59

" " 12 " " 5 " 60

" " 13 " " 6 " 61

" " 14 " " 7 " 62

" " 15 " " 8 " 63

" " 16 " " 9 " 64

" " 17 " " 10 " 65

" " 18 " " 11 " 66

" " 19 " " 12 " 67

" " 20 " " 13 " 68

" " 21 " " 14 " 69

" " 22 " " 15 " 70

" " 23 " " 16 " 71

" " 24 " " 17 " 72

" " 25 " " 18 " 73

" " 26 " " 19 " 74

" " 27 " " 20 " 75

" " 28 " " 21 " 76

" " 29 " " 22 " 77

ABBREVIATIONS

A.C. After Christ.

_Ann. Rep. Annual Report._

A.S. Archaeological Survey.

_A.S.R. Archaeological Survey Reports,_ by Sir Alexander Cunningham

and his assistants; 23 vols. 8vo, Simla and Calcutta, 1871-87, with

General Index (vol. xxiv, 1887) by V. A. Smith.

_A.S.W.I. Archaeological Survey Reports, Western India._

Beale. T. W. Beale, _Oriental Biographical Dictionary,_ ed. Keene,

1894.

C.P. Central Provinces.

E.& D. Sir H. M. Elliot and Professor J. Dowson, _The History of

India as told by its own Historians, Muhammadan Period;_ 8 vols. 8vo,

London, 1867-77.

_E.H.I._ V. A. Smith, _Early History of India,_ 3rd ed., Oxford,

1914.

_Ep. Ind. Epigraphia Indica,_ Calcutta.

Fanshawe. H. C. Fanshawe, _Delhi Past and Present,_ Murray, London,

1902.

_H.F.A._ V. A. Smith, _A History of Fine Art in India and Ceylon,_

4to, Oxford, 1911.

_I.G. Imperial Gazetteer of India_, Oxford, 1907, 1908.

_Ind. Ant. Indian Antiquary,_ Bombay.

_J.A.S.B. Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal,_ Calcutta.

_J.R.A.S. Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society,_ London.

_N.I.N.& Qu. North-Indian Notes and Queries,_ Allahabad, 1891-6

N.W.P. North-Western Provinces.

_Z.D.M.G. Zeitschrift der deutschen morgenländischen Gesellschaft,_

Leipzig.

CHAPTER 1

Annual Fairs held upon the Banks of Sacred Streams in India.

Before setting out on our journey towards the Himâlaya we formed once

more an agreeable party to visit the Marble Rocks of the Nerbudda at

Bherâghât.[1] It was the end of Kârtik,[2] when the Hindoos hold

fairs on all their sacred streams at places consecrated by poetry or

tradition as the scene of some divine work or manifestation. These

fairs are at once festive and holy; every person who comes enjoying

himself as much as he can, and at the same time seeking purification

from all past transgressions by bathing and praying in the holy

stream, and making laudable resolutions to be better for the future.

The ceremonies last five days, and take place at the same time upon

all the sacred rivers throughout India; and the greater part of the

whole Hindoo population, from the summits of the Himâlaya mountains

to Cape Comôrin, will, I believe, during these five days, be found

congregated at these fairs. In sailing down the Ganges one may pass

in the course of a day half a dozen such fairs, each with a multitude

equal to the population of a large city, and rendered beautifully

picturesque by the magnificence and variety of the tent equipages of

the great and wealthy. The preserver of the universe (_Bhagvân_)

Vishnu is supposed, on the 26th of Asârh, to descend to the world

below (_Pâtâl_) to defend Râjâ Bali from the attacks of Indra, to

stay with him four months, and to come up again on the 26th

Kârtik.[3] During his absence almost all kinds of worship and

festivities are suspended; and they recommence at these fairs, where

people assemble to hail his resurrection.

Our tents were pitched upon a green sward on one bank of a small

stream running into the Nerbudda close by, while the multitude

occupied the other bank. At night all the tents and booths are

illuminated, and the scene is hardly less animated by night than by

day; but what strikes a European most is the entire absence of all

tumult and disorder at such places. He not only sees no disturbance,

but feels assured that there will be none; and leaves his wife and

children in the midst of a crowd of a hundred thousand persons all

strangers to them, and all speaking a language and following a

religion different from theirs, while he goes off the whole day,

hunting and shooting in the distant jungles, without the slightest

feeling of apprehension for their safety or comfort. It is a singular

fact, which I know to be true, that during the great mutiny of our

native troops at Barrackpore in 1824, the chief leaders bound

themselves by a solemn oath not to suffer any European lady or child

to be injured or molested, happen what might to them in the collision

with their officers and the Government. My friend Captain Reid, one

of the general staff, used to allow his children, five in number, to

go into the lines and play with the soldiers of the mutinous

regiments up to the very day when the artillery opened upon them;

and, of above thirty European ladies then at the station, not one

thought of leaving the place till they heard the guns.[4] Mrs.

Colonel Faithful, with her daughter and another young lady, who had

both just arrived from England, went lately all the way from Calcutta

to Lûdiâna on the banks of the Hyphasis, a distance of more than

twelve hundred miles, in their palankeens with relays of bearers, and

without even a servant to attend them.[5] They were travelling night

and day for fourteen days without the slightest apprehension of

injury or of insult. Cases of ladies travelling in the same manner by

_dâk_ (stages) immediately after their arrival from England to all

parts of the country occur every day, and I know of no instance of

injury or insult sustained by them.[6] Does not this speak volumes

for the character of our rule in India? Would men trust their wives

and daughters in this manner unprotected among a people that disliked

them and their rule? We have not a garrison, or walled cantonments,

or fortified position of any kind for our residence from one end of

our Eastern empire to the other, save at the three capitals of

Calcutta, Madras, and Bombay.[7] We know and feel that the people

everywhere look up to and respect us, in spite of all our faults, and

we like to let them know and feel that we have confidence in them.

Sir Thomas Munro has justly observed, 'I do not exactly know what is

meant by civilizing the people of India. In the theory and practice

of good government they may be deficient; but, if a good system of

agriculture, if unrivalled manufactures, if the establishment of

schools for reading and writing, if the general practice of kindness

and hospitality, and, above all, if a scrupulous respect and delicacy

towards the female sex are amongst the points that denote a civilized

people; then the Hindoos are not inferior in civilization to the

people of Europe'.[8]

Bishop Heber writes in the same favourable terms of the Hindoos in

the narrative of his journey through India; and where shall we find a

mind more capable of judging of the merits and demerits of a people

than his?[9]

The concourse of people at this fair was, as usual, immense; but a

great many who could not afford to provide tents for the

accommodation of their families were driven away before their time by

some heavy showers of, to them, unseasonable rains. On this and

similar occasions the people bathe in the Nerbudda without the aid of

priests, but a number of poor Brahmans attend at these festivals to

receive charity, though not to assist at the ceremonies. Those who

could afford it gave a trifle to these men as they came out of the

sacred stream, but in no case was it demanded, or even solicited with

any appearance of importunity, as it commonly is at fairs and holy

places on the Ganges. The first day, the people bathe below the rapid

over which the river falls after it emerges from its peaceful abode

among the marble rocks; on the second day, just above this rapid; and

on the third day, two miles further up at the cascade, when the whole

body of the limpid stream of the Nerbudda, confined to a narrow

channel of only a few yards wide, falls tumultuously down in a

beautiful cascade into a deep chasm of marble rocks. This fall of

their sacred stream the people call the 'Dhuândhâr', or 'the smoky

fall', from the thick vapour which is always seen rising from it in

the morning. From below, the river glides quietly and imperceptibly

for a mile and a half along a deep, and, according to popular belief,

a fathomless channel of from ten to fifty yards wide, with snow-white

marble rocks rising perpendicularly on either side from a hundred to

a hundred and fifty feet high, and in some parts fearfully

overhanging. Suspended in recesses of these white rocks are numerous

large black nests of hornets ready to descend upon any unlucky wight

who may venture to disturb their repose;[10] and, as the boats of the

curious European visitors pass up and down to the sound of music,

clouds of wild pigeons rise from each side, and seem sometimes to

fill the air above them. Here, according to native legends, repose

the Pândavas, the heroes of their great Homeric poem, the

Mahâbhârata, whose names they have transferred to the valley of the

Nerbudda. Every fantastic appearance of the rocks, caused by those

great convulsions of nature which have so much disturbed the crust of

the globe, or by the slow and silent working of the, waters, is

attributed to the god-like power of those great heroes of Indian

romance, and is associated with the recollection of scenes in which

they are supposed to have figured.[11]

The strata of the Kaimûr range of sandstone hills, which runs

diagonally across the valley of the Nerbudda, are thrown up almost

perpendicularly, in some places many hundred feet above the level of

the plain, while in others for many miles together their tops are

only visible above the surface. These are so many strings of the oxen

which the arrows of Arjun, one of the five brothers, converted into

stone; and many a stream which now waters the valley first sprang

from the surface of the earth at the touch of his lance, as his

troops wanted water. The image of the gods of a former day, which now

lie scattered among the ruins of old cities, buried in the depth of

the forest, are nothing less than the bodies of the kings of the

earth turned into stone for their temerity in contending with these

demigods in battle. Ponds among the rocks of the Nerbudda, where all

the great fairs are held, still bear the names of the five brothers,

who are the heroes of this great poem;[12] and they are every year

visited by hundreds of thousands who implicitly believe that their

waters once received upon their bosoms the wearied limbs of those

whose names they bear. What is life without the charms of fiction,

and without the leisure and recreations which these sacred imaginings

tend to give to the great mass of those who have nothing but the

labour of their hands to depend upon for their subsistence! Let no

such fictions be believed, and the holidays and pastimes of the lower

orders in every country would soon cease, for they have almost

everywhere owed their origin and support to some religious dream

which has commanded the faith and influenced the conduct of great

masses of mankind, and prevented one man from presuming to work on

the day that another wished to rest from his labours. The people were

of opinion, they told me, that the Ganges, as a sacred stream, could

last only sixty years more, when the Nerbudda would take its place.

The waters of the Nerbudda are, they say already so much more sacred

than those of the Ganges that to see them is sufficient to cleanse

men from their sins, whereas the Ganges must be touched before it can

have that effect.[13]

At the temple built on the top of a conical hill at Bherâghât,

overlooking the river, is a statue of a bull carrying Siva, the god

of destruction, and his wife Pârvatî seated behind him; they have

both snakes in their hands, and Siva has a large one round his loins

as a waistband. There are several demons in human shape lying

prostrate under the belly of the bull, and the whole are well cut out

of one large slab of hard basalt from a dyke in the marble rock

beneath. They call the whole group 'Gaurî Sankar', and I found in the

fair, exposed for sale, a brass model of a similar one from Jeypore

(Jaipur), but not so well shaped and proportioned. On noticing this

we were told that 'such difference was to be expected, since the

brass must have been made by man, whereas the "Gaurî Sankar" of the

temple above was a real Pâkhân, or a conversion of living beings into

stone by the gods;[14] they were therefore the exact resemblance of

living beings, while the others could only be rude imitations'.

'Gaurî', or the Fair, is the name of Pârvatî, or Dêvî, when she

appears with her husband Siva. On such occasions she is always fair

and beautiful. Sankar is another name of Siva, or Mahâdêo, or Rudra.

On looking into the temple at the statue, a lady expressed her

surprise at the entireness as well as the excellence of the figures,

while all round had been so much mutilated by the Muhammadans. 'They

are quite a different thing from the others', said a respectable old

landholder; 'they are a conversion of real flesh and blood into

stone, and no human hands can either imitate or hurt them.' She

smiled incredulously, while he looked very grave, and appealed to the

whole crowd of spectators assembled, who all testified to the truth

of what he had said; and added that 'at no distant day the figures

would be all restored to life again, the deities would all come back

without doubt and reanimate their old bodies again'.

All the people who come to bathe at the fair bring chaplets of yellow

jasmine, and hang them as offerings round the necks of the god and

his consort; and at the same time they make some small offerings of

rice to each of the many images that stand within the same apartment,

and also to those which, under a stone roof supported upon stone

pillars, line the inside of the wall that surrounds the circular

area, in the centre of which the temple stands. The images inside the

temple are those of the three great gods, Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva,

with their primaeval consorts;[15] but those that occupy the piazza

outside are the representations of the consorts of the different

incarnations of these three gods, and these consorts are themselves

the incarnations of the primaeval wives, who followed their husbands

in all their earthly ramblings. They have all the female form, and

are about the size of ordinary women, and extremely well cut out of

fine white and green sandstone; but their heads are those of the

animals in which their respective husbands became incarnate, such as

the lion, the elephant, &c., or those of the '_vâhans_', or animals

on which they rode, such as the bull, the swan, the eagle, &c. But

these, I presume, are mere _capricios_ of the founder of the temple.

The figures are sixty-four in number, all mounted upon their

respective '_vâhans_', but have been sadly mutilated by the pious

Muhammadans.[16]

The old 'Mahant', or high priest, told us that Mahâdêo and his wife

were in reality our Adam and Eve; 'they came here together', said he,

'on a visit to the mountain Kailâs,[17] and being earnestly solicited

to leave some memorial of their visit, got themselves turned into

stone'. The popular belief is that some very holy man, who had been

occupied on the top of this little conical hill, where the temple now

stands, in austere devotions for some few thousand years, was at last

honoured with a visit from Siva and his consort, who asked him what

they could do for him. He begged them to wait till he should bring

some flowers from the woods to make them a suitable offering. They

promised to do so, and he ran down, plunged into the Nerbudda and

drowned himself, in order that these august persons might for ever

remain and do honour to his residence and his name. They, however,

left only their 'mortal coil', but will one day return and resume it.

I know not whether I am singular in the notion or not, but I think

Mahâdêo and his consort are really our Adam and Eve, and that the

people have converted them into the god and goddess of destruction,

from some vague idea of their original sin, which involved all their

race in destruction. The snakes, which form the only dress of

Mahâdêo, would seem to confirm this notion.[18]

Notes:

1. The Nerbudda (Narbadâ, or Narmadâ) river is the boundary between

Hindustan, or Northern India, and the Deccan (Dakhin), or Southern

India. The beautiful gorge of the Marble Rocks, near Jubbulpore

(Jabalpur), is familiar to modern tourists (see _I.G._, 1908, s.v.

'Marble Rocks'). The remarkable antiquities at Bherâghât are

described and illustrated in _A.S.R._, vol. ix, pp. 60-76, pl. xii-

xvi. Additions and corrections to Cunningham's account will be found

in _A.S.W.I Progr. Rep._, 1893-4, p. 5; and _A.S. Ann. Rep., E.

Circle_, 1907-8, pp. 14-18.

2. The eighth month of the Hindoo luni-solar year, corresponding to

part of October and part of November. In Northern India the year

begins with the month Chait, in March. The most commonly used names

of the months are: (1) Chait; (2) Baisâkh; (3) Jêth; (4) Asârh; (5)

Sâwan; (6) Bhâdon; (7) Kuâr; (8) Kârtik; (9) Aghan; (10) Pûs; (II)

Mâgh; and (12) Phâlgun.

3. _Bhagvân_ is often used as equivalent for the word God in its most

general sense, but is specially applicable to the Deity as manifested

in Vishnu the Preserver. _Asârh_ corresponds to June-July, _Pâtâl_ is

the Hindoo Hades. Râjâ Bali is a demon, and Indra is the lord of the

heavens. The fairs take place at the time of full moon.

4. Barrackpore, fifteen miles north of Calcutta, is still a

cantonment. The Governor General has a country house there. The

mutiny of the native troops stationed there occurred on Nov. 1, 1824,

and was due to the discontent caused by orders moving the 47th Native

Infantry to Rangoon to take part in the Burmese War. The outbreak was

promptly suppressed. Captain Pogson published a _Memoir of the Mutiny

at Barrackpore_ (8vo, Serampore, 1833).

5. Lûdiâna, the capital of the district of the same name, now under

the Punjab Government. Hyphasis is the Greek name of the Biâs river,

one of the five rivers of the Punjâb.

6. Railways have rendered almost obsolete the mode of travelling

described in the text. In Northern India palankeens (pâlkîs) are now

seldom used, even by Indians, except for purposes of ceremony.

7. This statement is no longer quite accurate, though fortified

positions are still very few.

8. The editor cannot find the exact passage quoted, but remarks to

the same effect will be found in _The Life of Sir Thomas Munro,_ by

the Rev. G. R. Gleig, in two volumes, a new edition (London, 1831),

vol. ii, p. 175.

9. _Narrative of a Journey through the Upper Provinces of India, from

Calcutta to Bombay, 1834-5, and a Journey to the Southern Provinces

in 1826_ (2nd edition, 3 vols. 8vo, London, 1828.)

10. The bees at the Marble Rocks are the _Apis dorsata_. An

Englishman named Biddington, when trying to escape from them, was

drowned, and they stung to death one of Captain Forsyth's baggage

ponies (Balfour, _Cyclopaedia of India,_ 3rd ed., 1885, s.v. Bee').

11. The vast epic poem, or collection of poems known as the

Mahâbhârata, consists of over 100,000 Sanskrit verses. The main

subject is the war between the five Pândavas, or sons of Pândû, and

their cousins the Kauravas, sons of Dhritarâshtra. Many poems of

various origins and dates are interwoven with the main work. The best

known of the episodes is that of _Nala and Damayantî,_ which was well

translated by Dean Milman, See Macdonell, _A History of Sanskrit

Literature_ (Heinemann, 1900).

12. The five Pândava brothers were Yudhishthira, Bhîmia, Arjuna,

Nakula, and Sahadeva, the children of Pândû, by his wives Kuntî, or

Prithâ, and Madrî.

13. 'The Narbadâ has its special admirers, who exalt it oven above

the Ganges, . . . The sanctity of the Ganges will, they say, cease in

1895, whereas that of the Narbadâ will continue for ever' (Monier

Williams, _Religious Thought and Life in India,_ London, 1883, p.

348), See _post,_ Chapter 27.

14. Sleeman wrote 'Py-Khan', a corrupt spelling of pâkhân, the

Sanskrit pâshâna or pâsâna, 'a stone'. The compound pâshâna-mûrti is

commonly used in the sense of 'stone image'. The sibilant _sh_ or _s_

usually is pronounced as _kh_ in Northern India (Grierson,

_J.R.A.S.,_ 1903, p. 363).

15. Sarasvatî, consort of Brahma; Dêvî (Pârvatî, Durgâ, &c.), consort

of Siva; and Lakshmî, consort of Vishnu. All Hindoo deities have many

names.

16. The author's explanation is partly erroneous. The temple, which

is a very remarkable one, is dedicated to the sixty-four Joginîs.

Only five temples in India are known to be dedicated to these demons.

For details see Cunningham, _A.S.R.,_ vol. ix, pp. 61-74, pl. xii-

xvi; vol. ii, p. 416; and vol. xxi, p. 57. The word _vâhana_ means

'vehicle'. Each deity has his peculiar vehicle.

17. The heaven of Siva, as distinguished from Vaikuntha, the heaven

of Vishnu. It is supposed to be somewhere in the Himâlaya mountains.

The wonderful excavated rock temple at Ellora is believed to be a

model of Kailâs.

18. This 'notion' of the author's is not likely to find acceptance at

the present day.

CHAPTER 2

Hindoo System of Religion.

The Hindoo system is this. A great divine spirit or essence,

'Brahma', pervades the whole universe; and the soul of every human

being is a drop from this great ocean, to which, when it becomes

perfectly purified, it is reunited. The reunion is the eternal

beatitude to which all look forward with hope; and the soul of the

Brahman is nearest to it. If he has been a good man, his soul becomes

absorbed in the 'Brahma'; and, if a bad man, it goes to 'Narak',

hell; and after the expiration of its period there of _limited

imprisonment_, it returns to earth, and occupies the body of some

other animal. It again advances by degrees to the body of the

Brahman; and thence, when fitted for it, into the great 'Brahma'.[1]

From this great eternal essence emanate Brahma, the Creator, whose

consort is Sarasvatî;[2] Vishnu, the Preserver, whose consort is

Lakshmî; and Siva, _alias_ Mahâdêo, the Destroyer, whose consort is

Pârvatî. According to popular belief Jamrâj (Yamarâja) is the

judicial deity who has been appointed by the greater powers to pass

the final judgement on the tenor of men's lives, according to

proceedings drawn up by his secretary Chitragupta. If men's actions

have been good, their souls are, as the next stage, advanced a step

towards the great essence, Brahma; and, if bad, they are thrown back,

and obliged to occupy the bodies of brutes or of people of inferior

caste, as the balance against them may be great or small. There is an

intermediate stage, a 'Narak', or hell, for bad men, and a

'Baikunth', or paradise, for the good, in which they find their

felicity in serving that god of the three to which they have

specially devoted themselves while on earth. But from this stage,

after the period of their sentence is expired, men go back to their

pilgrimage on earth again.

There are numerous Dêos (Devas), or good spirits, of whom Indra is

the chief; [3] and Daityas, or bad spirits; and there have also been

a great number of incarnations from the three great gods, and their

consorts, who have made their appearance upon the earth when required

for particular purposes. All these incarnations are called 'Avatârs',

or descents. Vishnu has been eleven times on the globe in different

shapes, and Siva seven times.[4] The avatârs of Vishnu are celebrated

in many popular poems, such as the Râmâyana, or history of the Rape

of Sitâ, the wife of Râma, the seventh incarnation;[5] the

Mahâbhârata, and the Bhâgavata [Purâna], which describe the wars and

amours of this god in his last human shape.[6] All these books are

believed to have been written either by the hand or by the

inspiration of the god himself thousands of years before the events

they describe actually took place. 'It was', they say, 'as easy for

the deity to write or dictate a battle, an amour, or any other

important event ten thousand years before as the day after it took

place'; and I believe nine-tenths, perhaps ninety-nine in a hundred,

of the Hindoo population believe implicitly that these accounts were

also written. It is now pretty clear that all these works are of

comparatively recent date, that the great poem of the Mahâbhârata

could not have been written before the year 786 of the Christian era,

and was probably written so late as A.D. 1157; that Krishna, _if born

at all_, must have been born on the 7th of August, A.D. 600, but was

most likely a mere creation of the imagination to serve the purpose

of the Brahmans of Ujain, in whom the fiction originated; that the

other incarnations were invented about the same time, and for the

same object, though the other persons described as incarnations were

real princes, Parasu Râma, before Christ 1176, and Râma, born before

Christ 961. In the Mahâbhârata Krishna is described as fighting in

the same army with Yudhishthira and his four brothers. Yudhishthira

was a real person, who ascended the throne at Delhi 575 B.C., or 1175

years before the birth of Krishna.[7] Bentley supposes that the

incarnations, particularly that of Krishna, were invented by the

Brahmans of Ujain with a view to check the progress of Christianity

in that part of the world (see his historical view of the Hindoo

astronomy). That we find in no history any account of the alarming

progress of Christianity about the time these fables were written is

no proof that Bentley was wrong.[8]

When Monsieur Thevenot was at Agra [in] 1666, the Christian

population was roughly estimated at twenty-five thousand families.

They had all passed away before it became one of our civil and

military stations in the beginning of the present century, and we

might search history in vain for any mention of them (see his

_Travels in India_, Part III). One single prince, well disposed to

give Christians encouragement and employment, might, in a few years,

get the same number around his capital; and it is probable that the

early Christians in India occasionally found such princes, and gave

just cause of alarm to the Brahman priests, who were then in the

infancy of their despotic power.[9]

During the war with Nepal, in 1814 and 1815,[10] the division with

which I served came upon an extremely interesting colony of about two

thousand Christian families at Betiyâ in the Tirhût District, on the

borders of the Tarâi forest. This colony had been created by one man,

the Bishop, a Venetian by birth, under the protection of a small

Hindoo prince, the Râjâ, of Betiyâ.[11] This holy man had been some

fifty years among these people, with little or no support from Europe

or from any other quarter. The only aid he got from the Râjâ was a

pledge that no member of his Church should be subject to the

_Purveyance system_, under which the people everywhere suffered so

much,[12] and this pledge the Râjâ, though a Hindoo, had never

suffered to be violated. There were men of all trades among them, and

they formed one very large street remarkable for the superior style

of its buildings and the sober industry of its inhabitants. The

masons, carpenters, and blacksmiths of this little colony were

working in our camp every day, while we remained in the vicinity, and

better workmen I have never seen in India; but they would all insist

upon going to divine service at the prescribed hours. They had built

a splendid _pucka_[13] dwelling-house for their bishop, and a still

more splendid church, and formed for him the finest garden I have

seen in India, surrounded with a good wall, and provided with

admirable pucka wells. The native Christian servants who attended at

the old bishop's table, taught by himself, spoke Latin to him; but he

was become very feeble, and spoke himself a mixture of Latin,

Italian, his native tongue, and Hindustânî. We used to have him at

our messes, and take as much care of him as of an infant, for he was

become almost as frail as one. The joy and the excitement of being

once more among Europeans, and treated by them with so much reverence

in the midst of his flock, were perhaps too much for him, for he

sickened and died soon after.

The Râjâ died soon after him, and in all probability the flock has

disappeared. No Europeans except a few indigo planters of the

neighbourhood had ever before known or heard of this colony; and they

seemed to consider them only as a set of great scoundrels, who had

better carts and bullocks than anybody else in the country, which

they refused to let out at the same rate as the others, and which

they (the indigo lords) were not permitted to seize and employ at

discretion. Roman Catholics have a greater facility in making

converts in India than Protestants, from having so much more in their

form of worship to win the affections through the medium of the

imagination.[14]

Notes:

1. Men are occasionally exempted from the necessity of becoming a

Brahman first. Men of low caste, if they die at particular places,

where it is the interest of the Brahmans to invite rich men to die,

are promised absorption into the great 'Brahma' at once. Immense

numbers of wealthy men go every year from the most distant parts of

India to die at Benares, where they spend large sums of money among

the Brahmans. It is by their means that this, the second city in

India, is supported. [W. H. S.] Bombay is now the second city in

India, so far as population is concerned.

2. Brahma, with the short vowel, is the eternal Essence or Spirit;

Brahmâ, with the long vowel, is 'the primaeval male god, the first

personal product of the purely spiritual Brahma, when overspread by

Maya, or illusory creative force', according to the Vedanta system

(Monier Williams, _Religious Thought and Life in India_, p. 44).

3. Indra was originally, in the Vedas, the Rain-god. The statement in

the text refers to modern Hinduism.

4. The incarnations of Vishnu are ordinarily reckoned as ten, namely,

(1) Fish, (2) Tortoise, (3) Boar, (4) Man-lion, (5) Dwarf, (6) Râma

with the axe, (7) Râma Chandra, (8) Krishna, (9) Buddha, (10) Kalkî,

or Kalkin, who is yet to come. I do not know any authority for eleven

incarnations of Vishnu. The number is stated in some Purânas as

twenty-two, twenty-four, or even twenty-eight. Seven incarnations of

Siva are not generally recognized (see Monier Williams, _Religious

Thought and Life in India_, pp. 78-86, and 107-16). For the theory

and mystical meaning of _avatârs_, see Grierson, _J.R.A.S._, 1909,

pp. 621-44. The word avatâr means 'descent', _scil_. of the Deity to

earth, and covers more than the term 'incarnation'.

5. Sitâ was an incarnation of Lakshmî. She became incarnate again,

many centuries afterwards, as the wife of Krishna, another

incarnation of Vishnu [W. H. S.]. Reckoning by centuries is, of

course, inapplicable to pure myth. The author believed in Bentley's

baseless chronology.

6. For the Mahâbhârata, see _ante_, note 11, Chapter 1. The Bhâgavata

Purâna is the most popular of the Purânas, The Hindi version of the

tenth book (_skandha_) is known as the 'Prem Sâgar'. The date of the

composition of the Purânas is uncertain.

7. The dates given in this passage are purely imaginary. Parts of the

Mahâbhârata are very ancient. Yudhishthira is no more an historical

personage than Achilles or Romulus. It is improbable that a 'throne

of Delhi' existed in 575 B.C., and hardly anything is known about the

state of India at that date.

8. It is hardly necessary to observe that this grotesque theory is

utterly at variance with the facts, as now known.

9. The existing settlements of native Christians at Agra are mostly

of modern origin. Very ancient Christian communities exist near

Madras, and on the Malabar coast. The travels of Jean de Thevenot

were published in 1684, under the title of _Voyage, contenant la

Relation de l'Indostan_. The English version, by A. Lovell (London,

1687), is entitled _The Travels of Monsieur de Thevenot into the

Levant, in three Parts_. Part III deals with the East Indies, The

passage referred to is: 'Some affirm that there are twenty-five

thousand Christian Families in Agra, but all do not agree in that'

(Part III, p. 35). Thevonot's statement about the Christians of Agra

is further discussed post in Chapter 52.

10. The war with Nepal began in October, 1814, and was not concluded

till 1816. During its progress the British arms suffered several

reverses.

11. The Betiyâ (Bettiah of _I. G_., 1908) Râj is a great estate with

an area of 1,824 square miles in the northern part of the Champâran

District of Bihâr, in the Province of Bihâr and Orissa. A great

portion of the estate is held (1908) on permanent leases by European

indigo-planters.

12. For discussion of this system see post, Chapter 7.

13. 'Pucka' (_pakkâ_) here means 'masonry', as opposed to 'Kutcha'

(_kachchâ_), meaning 'earthen'.

14. Native Christians, according to the census of 1872, number 1,214

persons, who are principally found in Bettiâ thâna [police-circle].

There are two Missions, one at Bettiâ, and the other at the village

of Chuhârî, both supported by the Roman Catholic Church. The former

was founded in 1746 by a certain Father Joseph, from Garingano in

Italy, who went to Bettiâ on the invitation of the Mahârâja. The

present number of converts is about 1,000 persons. Being principally

descendants of Brahmans, they hold a fair social position; but some

of them are extremely poor. About one-fourth are carpenters, one-

tenth blacksmiths, one-tenth servants, the remainder carters. The

Chuhârî Mission was founded in 1770 by three Catholic priests, who

had been expelled from Nepal [after the Gôrkha conquest in 1768].

There are now 283 converts, mostly descendants of Nepâlis. They are

all agriculturists, and very poor (Article 'Champâran District' in

_Statistical Account of Bengal_, 1877).

The statement in _I.G._ 1908, s.v. Bettiah, differs slightly, as

follows:

'A Roman Catholic Mission was established about 1740 by Father

Joseph Mary, an Italian missionary of the Capuchin Order, who was

passing near Bettiah on his way to Nepâl, when he was summoned by

Râjâ Dhruva Shah to attend his daughter, who was dangerously ill. He

succeeded in curing her, and the grateful Raja invited him to stay at

Bettiah and gave him a house and ninety acres of land.' The Bettiah

Mission still exists and maintains the Catholic Mission Press, where

publications illustrating the history of the Capuchin Missions have

been printed. Father Felix, O.C., is at work on the subject.

CHAPTER 3

Legend of the Nerbudda River.

The legend is that the Nerbudda, which flows west into the Gulf of

Cambay, was wooed and won in the usual way by the Sôn river, which

rises from the same tableland of Amarkantak, and flows east into the

Ganges and Bay of Bengal.[1] All the previous ceremonies having been

performed, the Sôn [2] came with 'due pomp and circumstance' to fetch

his bride in the procession called the 'Barât', up to which time the

bride and bridegroom are supposed never to have seen each other,

unless perchance they have met in infancy. Her Majesty the Nerbudda

became exceedingly impatient to know what sort of a personage her

destinies were to be linked to, while his Majesty the Sôn advanced at

a slow and stately pace. At last the Queen sent Johilâ, the daughter

of the barber, to take a close view of him, and to return and make a

faithful and particular report of his person. His Majesty was

captivated with the little Johilâ, the barber's daughter, at first

sight; and she, 'nothing loath', yielded to his caresses. Some say

that she actually pretended to be Queen herself; and that his Majesty

was no further in fault than in mistaking the humble handmaid for her

noble mistress; but, be that as it may, her Majesty no sooner heard

of the good understanding between them, than she rushed forward, and

with one foot sent the Sôn rolling back to the east whence he came,

and with the other kicked little Johilâ sprawling after him; for,

said the high priest, who told us the story, 'You see what a towering

passion she was likely to have been in under such indignities from

the furious manner in which she cuts her way through the marble rocks

beneath us, and casts huge masses right and left as she goes along,

as if they were really so many coco-nuts'. 'And was she', asked I,

'to have flown eastward with him, or was he to have flown westward

with her?' 'She was to have accompanied him eastward', said the high

priest, 'but her Majesty, after this indignity, declared that she

would not go a single pace in the same direction with such wretches,

and would flow west, though all the other rivers in India might flow

east; and west she flows accordingly, a virgin queen.' I asked some

of the Hindoos about us why they called her 'Mother Nerbudda', if she

was really never married. 'Her Majesty', said they with great

respect, 'would really never consent to be married after the

indignity she suffered from her affianced bridegroom the Sôn; and we

call her Mother because she blesses us all, and we are anxious to

accost her by the name which we consider to be at once the most

respectful and endearing.'

Any Englishman can easily conceive a poet in his highest 'calenture

of the brain' addressing the ocean as 'a steed that knows his rider',

and patting the crested billow as his flowing mane; but he must come

to India to understand how every individual of a whole community of

many millions can address a fine river as a living being, a sovereign

princess, who hears and understands all they say, and exercises a

kind of local superintendence over their affairs, without a single

temple in which her image is worshipped, or a single priest to profit

by the delusion. As in the case of the Ganges, it is the river itself

to whom they address themselves, and not to any deity residing in it,

or presiding over it: the stream itself is the deity which fills

their imaginations, and receives their homage.

Among the Romans and ancient Persians rivers were propitiated by

sacrifices. When Vitellius crossed the Euphrates with the Roman

legions to put Tiridates on the throne of Armenia, they propitiated

the river according to the rites of their country by the

_suovetaurilia_, the sacrifice of the hog, the ram, and the bull.

Tiridates did the same by the sacrifice of a horse. Tacitus does not

mention the river _god_, but the river _itself_, as propitiated (see

[_Annals_,] book vi, chap. 37).[3] Plato makes Socrates condemn Homer

for making Achilles behave disrespectfully towards the river Xanthus,

though acknowledged to be a divinity, in offering to fight him,[4]

and towards the river Sperchius, another acknowledged god, in

presenting to the dead body of Patroclus the locks of his hair which

he had promised to that river.[5]

The Sôn river, which rises near the source of the Nerbudda on the

tableland of Amarkantak, takes a westerly course for some miles, and

then turns off suddenly to the east, and is joined by the little

stream of the Johilâ before it descends the great cascade; and hence

the poets have created this fiction, which the mass of the population

receive as divine revelation. The statue of little Johilâ, the

barber's daughter, in stone, stands in the temple of the goddess

Nerbudda at Amarkantak, bound in chains.[6] It may here be remarked

that the first overtures in India must always be made through the

medium of the barber, whether they be from the prince or the

peasant.[7] If a sovereign prince sends proposals to a sovereign

princess, they must be conveyed through the medium of the barber, or

they will never be considered as done in due form, as likely to prove

propitious. The prince will, of course, send some relation or high

functionary with him; but in all the credentials the barber must be

named as the principal functionary. Hence it was that Her Majesty was

supposed to have sent a barber's daughter to meet her husband.

The 'Mahâtam' (greatness or holiness) of the Ganges is said, as I

have already stated, to be on the wane, and not likely to endure

sixty years longer; while that of the Nerbudda is on the increase,

and in sixty years is entirely to supersede the sanctity of her

sister. If the valley of the Nerbudda should continue for sixty years

longer under such a government as it has enjoyed since we took

possession of it in 1817,[8] it may become infinitely more rich, more

populous, and more beautiful than that of the Nile ever was; and, if

the Hindoos there continue, as I hope they will, to acquire wealth

and honour under a rule to which they are so much attached, the

prophecy may be realized in as far as the increase of honour paid to

the Nerbudda is concerned. But I know no ground to expect that the

reverence[9] paid to the Ganges will diminish, unless education and

the concentration of capital in manufactures should work an important

change in the religious feelings and opinions of the people along the

course of that river; although this, it must be admitted, is a

consummation which may be looked for more speedily on the banks of

the Ganges than on those of a stream like the Nerbudda, which is

neither navigable at present nor, in my opinion, capable of being

rendered so. Commerce and manufactures, and the concentration of

capital in the maintenance of the new communities employed in them,

will, I think, be the great media through which this change will be

chiefly effected; and they are always more likely to follow the

course of rivers that are navigable than that of rivers which are

not.[10]

Notes:

1. Amarkantak, formerly in the Sohâgpur pargana of the Bilâspur

District of the Central Provinces, is situated on a high tableland,

and is a famous place of pilgrimage. The temples are described by

Beglar in _A.S.R._, vol. vii, pp. 227-34, pl. xx, xxi. The hill has

been transferred to the Rîwâ State (_Central Provinces Gazetteer_

(1870), and _I.G._ (1908), s.v. Amarkantak).

2. The name is misspelled Sohan in the author's text. The Sôn rises

at Sôn Mundâ, about twenty miles from Amarkantak (_A.S.R._, vol. vii,

236).

3. 'Sacrificantibus, cum hic more Romano suovetaurilia daret, ille

equum placando amni adornasset.'

4. [Greek text]--_Iliad_ xx, 73.

5. _Iliad_ xxiii. 140-153.

6. Mr. Crooke observes that the binding was intended to prevent the

object of worship from deserting her shrine or possibly doing

mischief elsewhere, and refers to his article, 'The Binding of a God,

a Study of the Basis of Idolatry', in _Folklore_, vol. viii (1897),

p.134. The name is spelt Johillâ in _I.G._ (1908), s.v. Sôn River.

7. Monier Williams denies the barber's monopoly of match-making. 'In

some parts of Northern India the match-maker for some castes is the

family barber; but for the higher castes he is more generally a

Brahman, who goes about from one house to another till he discovers a

baby-girl of suitable rank' (_Religious Thought and Life in India_,

p. 377). So far as the editor knows, the barber is ordinarily

employed in Northern India.

8. During the operations against the Pindhârî freebooters. Many

treaties were negotiated with the Peshwa and other native powers in

the years 1817 and 1818.

9. The word in the text is 'revenue'.

10. Concerning the prophecy that the sanctity of the Ganges will

cease in 1895, see note to Chapter 1, _ante_, [13]. The prophecy was

much talked of some years ago, but the reverence for the Ganges

continues undiminished, while the development of commerce and

manufactures has not affected, the religious feelings and opinions of

the people. Railways, in fact, facilitate pilgrimages and increase

their popularity. The course of commerce now follows the line of

rail, not the navigable rivers. The author, when writing this book,

evidently never contemplated the possibility of railway construction

in India. Later in life, in 1852, he fully appreciated the value of

the new means of communication (_Journey_, ii, 370, &c.).

CHAPTER 4

A Suttee[1] on the Nerbudda.

We took a ride one evening to Gopâlpur, a small village situated on

the same bank of the Nerbudda, about three miles up from Bherâghât.

On our way we met a party of women and girls coming to the fair.

Their legs were uncovered half-way up the thigh; but, as we passed,

they all carefully covered up their faces. 'Good God!' exclaimed one

of the ladies, 'how can these people be so very indecent?' They

thought it, no doubt, equally extraordinary that she should have her

face uncovered, while she so carefully concealed her legs; for they

were really all modest peasantry, going from the village to bathe in

the holy stream.[2]

Here there are some very pretty temples, built for the most part to

the memory of widows who have burned themselves with the remains of

their husbands, and upon the very spot where they committed

themselves to the flames. There was one which had been recently

raised over the ashes of one of the most extraordinary old ladies

that I have ever seen, who burned herself in my presence in 1829. I

prohibited the building of any temple upon the spot, but my successor

in the civil charge of the district, Major Low, was never, I believe,

made acquainted with the prohibition nor with the progress of the

work; which therefore went on to completion in my absence. As suttees

are now prohibited in our dominions[3] and cannot be often seen or

described by Europeans, I shall here relate the circumstances of this

as they were recorded by me at the time, and the reader may rely upon

the truth of the whole tale.

On the 29th November, 1829, this old woman, then about sixty-five

years of age, here mixed her ashes with those of her husband, who had

been burned alone four days before. On receiving civil charge of the

district (Jubbulpore) in March, 1828, I issued a proclamation

prohibiting any one from aiding or assisting in suttee, and

distinctly stating that to bring one ounce of wood for the purpose

would be considered as so doing. If the woman burned herself with the

body of her husband, any one who brought wood for the purpose of

burning him would become liable to punishment; consequently, the body

of the husband must be first consumed, and the widow must bring a

fresh supply for herself. On Tuesday, 24th November, 1829, I had an

application from the heads of the most respectable and most extensive

family of Brahmans in the district to suffer this old woman to burn

herself with the remains of her husband, Ummêd Singh Upadhya, who had

that morning died upon the banks of the Nerbudda.[4] I threatened to

enforce my order, and punish severely any man who assisted; and

placed a police guard for the purpose of seeing that no one did so.

She remained sitting by the edge of the water without eating or

drinking. The next day the body of her husband was burned to ashes in

a small pit of about eight feet square, and three or four feet deep,

before several thousand spectators who had assembled to see the

suttee. All strangers dispersed before evening, as there seemed to be

no prospect of my yielding to the urgent solicitations of her family,

who dared not touch food till she had burned herself, or declared

herself willing to return to them. Her sons, grandsons, and some

other relations remained with her, while the rest surrounded my

house, the one urging me to allow her to burn, and the other urging

her to desist. She remained sitting on a bare rock in the bed of the

Nerbudda, refusing every kind of sustenance, and exposed to the

intense heat of the sun by day, and the severe cold of the night,

with only a thin sheet thrown over her shoulders. On Thursday, to cut

off all hope of her being moved from her purpose, she put on the

dhajâ, or coarse red turban, and broke her bracelets in pieces, by

which she became dead in law, and for ever excluded from caste.

Should she choose to live after this, she could never return to her

family. Her children and grandchildren were still with her, but all

their entreaties were unavailing; and I became satisfied that she

would starve herself to death, if not allowed to burn, by which the

family would be disgraced, her miseries prolonged, and I myself

rendered liable to be charged with a wanton abuse of authority, for

no prohibition of the kind I had issued had as yet received the

formal sanction of the Government.

On Saturday, the 28th, in the morning, I rode out ten miles to the

spot, and found the poor old widow sitting with the dhajâ round her

head, a brass plate before her with undressed rice and flowers, and a

coco-nut in each hand. She talked very collectedly, telling me that

'she had determined to mix her ashes with those of her departed

husband, and should patiently wait my permission to do so, assured

that God would enable her to sustain life till that was given, though

she dared not eat or drink'. Looking at the sun, then rising before

her over a long and beautiful reach of the Nerbudda river, she said

calmly, 'My soul has been for five days with my husband's near that

sun, nothing but my earthly frame is left; and this, I know, you will

in time suffer to be mixed with the ashes of his in yonder pit,

because it is not in your nature or usage wantonly to prolong the

miseries of a poor old woman'.

'Indeed, it is not,--my object and duty is to save and preserve them

[_sic_]; and I am come to dissuade you from this idle purpose, to

urge you to live, and to keep your family from the disgrace of being

thought your murderers.'

'I am not afraid of their ever being so thought: they have all, like

good children, done everything in their power to induce me to live

among them; and, if I had done so, I know they would have loved and

honoured me; but my duties to them have now ended. I commit them all

to your care, and I go to attend my husband, _Ummêd Singh Upadhya_,

with whose ashes on the funeral pile mine have been already three

times mixed.'[5]

This was the first time in her long life that she had ever pronounced

the name of her husband, for in India no woman, high or low, ever

pronounces the name of her husband,--she would consider it

disrespectful towards him to do so; and it is often amusing to see

their embarrassment when asked the question by any European

gentleman. They look right and left for some one to relieve them from

the dilemma of appearing disrespectful either to the querist or to

their absent husbands--they perceive that he is unacquainted with

their duties on this point, and are afraid he will attribute their

silence to disrespect. They know that few European gentlemen are

acquainted with them; and when women go into our courts of justice,

or other places where they are liable to be asked the names of their

husbands, they commonly take one of their children or some other

relation with them to pronounce the words in their stead. When the

old lady named her husband, as she did with strong emphasis, and in a

very deliberate manner, every one present was satisfied that she had

resolved to die. 'I have', she continued, 'tasted largely of the

bounty of Government, having been maintained by it with all my large

family in ease and comfort upon our rent-free lands; and I feel

assured that my children will not be suffered to want; but with them

I have nothing more to do, our intercourse and communion here end. My

soul (_prân_) is with _Ummêd Singh Upadhya_: and my ashes must here

mix with his.'

Again looking to the sun--'I see them together', said she, with a

tone and countenance that affected me a good deal, 'under the bridal

canopy!'--alluding to the ceremonies of marriage; and I am satisfied

that she at that moment really believed that she saw her own spirit

and that of her husband under the bridal canopy in paradise.

I tried to work upon her pride and her fears. I told her that it was

probable that the rent-free lands by which her family had been so

long supported might be resumed by the Government, as a mark of its

displeasure against the children for not dissuading her from the

sacrifice; that the temples over her ancestors upon the bank might be

levelled with the ground, in order to prevent their operating to

induce others to make similar sacrifices; and lastly, that not one

single brick or stone should ever mark the place where she died if

she persisted in her resolution. But, if she consented to live, a

splendid habitation should be built for her among these temples, a

handsome provision assigned for her support out of these rent-free

lands, her children should come daily to visit her, and I should

frequently do the same. She smiled, but held out her arm and said,

'My pulse has long ceased to beat, my spirit has departed, and I have

nothing left but a little _earth_, that I wish to mix with the ashes

of my husband. I shall suffer nothing in burning; and, if you wish

proof, order some fire, and you shall see this arm consumed without

giving me any pain'. I did not attempt to feel her pulse, but some of

my people did, and declared that it had ceased to be perceptible. At

this time every native present believed that she was incapable of

suffering pain; and her end confirmed them in their opinion.

Satisfied myself that it would be unavailing to attempt to save her

life, I sent for all the principal members of the family, and

consented that she should be suffered to burn herself if they would

enter into engagements that no other member of their family should

ever do the same. This they all agreed to, and the papers having been

drawn out in due form about midday, I sent down notice to the old

lady, who seemed extremely pleased and thankful. The ceremonies of

bathing were gone through before three [o'clock], while the wood and

other combustible materials for a strong fire were collected and put

into the pit. After bathing, she called for a 'pan' (betel leaf) and

ate it, then rose up, and with one arm on the shoulder of her eldest

son, and the other on that of her nephew, approached the fire. I had

sentries placed all round, and no other person was allowed to

approach within five paces. As she rose up fire was set to the pile,

and it was instantly in a blaze. The distance was about 150 yards.

She came on with a calm and cheerful countenance, stopped once, and,

casting her eyes upward, said, 'Why have they kept me five days from

thee, my husband?' On coming to the sentries her supporters stopped;

she walked once round the pit, paused a moment, and, while muttering

a prayer, threw some flowers into the fire. She then walked up

deliberately and steadily to the brink, stepped into the centre of

the flame, sat down, and leaning back in the midst as if reposing

upon a couch, was consumed without uttering a shriek or betraying one

sign of agony.

A few instruments of music had been provided, and they played, as

usual, as she approached the fire, not, as is commonly supposed, in

order to drown screams, but to prevent the last words of the victim

from being heard, as these are supposed to be prophetic, and might

become sources of pain or strife to the living.[6] It was not

expected that I should yield, and but few people had assembled to

witness the sacrifice, so that there was little or nothing in the

circumstances immediately around to stimulate her to any

extraordinary exertions; and I am persuaded that it was the desire of

again being united to her husband in the next world, and the entire

confidence that she would be so if she now burned herself, that alone

sustained her. From the morning he died (Tuesday) till Wednesday

evening she ate 'pans' or betel leaves, but nothing else; and from

Wednesday evening she ceased eating them. She drank no water from

Tuesday. She went into the fire with the same cloth about her that

she had worn in the bed of the river; but it was made wet from a

persuasion that even the shadow of any impure thing falling upon her

from going to the pile contaminates the woman unless counteracted by

the sheet moistened in the holy stream.

I must do the family the justice to say that they all exerted

themselves to dissuade the widow from her purpose, and had she lived

she would assuredly have been cherished and honoured as the first

female member of the whole house. There is no people in the world

among whom parents are more loved, honoured, and obeyed than among

the Hindoos; and the grandmother is always more honoured than the

mother. No queen upon her throne could ever have been approached with

more reverence by her subjects than was this old lady by all the

members of her family as she sat upon a naked rock in the bed of the

river, with only a red rag upon her head and a single-white sheet

over her shoulders.

Soon after the battle of Trafalgar I heard a young lady exclaim, 'I

could really wish to have had a brother killed in that action'. There

is no doubt that a family in which a suttee takes place feels a good

deal exalted in its own esteem and that of the community by the

sacrifice. The sister of the Râjâ of Rîwâ was one of four or five

wives who burned themselves with the remains of the Râjâ of Udaipur;

and nothing in the course of his life will ever be recollected by her

brother with so much of pride and pleasure, since the Udaipur Râjâ is

the head of the Râjpût tribes.[7]

I asked the old lady when she had first resolved upon becoming a

suttee, and she told me that about thirteen years before, while

bathing in the river Nerbudda, near the spot where she then sat, with

many other females of the family, the resolution had fixed itself in

her mind as she looked at the splendid temples on the bank of the

river erected by the different branches of the family over the ashes

of her female relations who had at different times become suttees.

Two, I think, were over her aunts, and one over the mother of her

husband. They were very beautiful buildings, and had been erected at

great cost and kept in good repair. She told me that she had never

mentioned this her resolution to any one from that time, nor breathed

a syllable on the subject till she called out 'Sat, sat, sat',[8]

when her husband breathed his last with his head in her lap on the

bank of the Nerbudda, to which he had been taken when no hopes

remained of his surviving the fever of which he died.

Charles Harding, of the Bengal Civil Service, as magistrate of

Benares, in 1806 prevented the widow of a Brahman from being burned.

Twelve months after her husband's death she had been goaded by her

family into the expression of a wish to burn with some relic of her

husband, preserved for the purpose. The pile was raised to her at

Râmnagar,[9] some two miles above Benares, on the opposite side of

the river Ganges. She was not well secured upon the pile, and as soon

as she felt the fire she jumped off and plunged into the river. The

people all ran after her along the bank, but the current drove her

towards Benares, whence a police boat put off and took her in.

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