LEMON CUSTARD may be made in the same manner, or as follows: Strain

three wineglassfuls of lemon-juice through a sieve; beat nine eggs,

yolks and whites, strain them also, and add them to the lemon-juice,

with one-quarter pound of powdered loaf-sugar, a glass of white wine,

and half a wineglass of water, with a little grated lemon-peel. Mix

all together, and put the ingredients into a sauce-pan on the fire,

stirring it until it becomes thick and of a proper consistence.

ALMOND CUSTARD.--Boil in a pint of milk, or cream, two or three bitter

almonds, a stick of cinnamon, and a piece of lemon-peel pared thin,

with eight or ten lumps of sugar; let it simmer to extract the flavor,

then strain it and stir it till cold. Beat the yolks of six eggs, mix

it with the milk, and stir the whole over a slow fire until of a proper

thickness, adding one ounce of sweet almonds, beaten fine in rose-water.

PLAIN CUSTARD.--To one quart of cream or new milk, add a stick of

cinnamon, four bay leaves and some mace; boil them altogether a few

minutes; then beat well twelve eggs, sweeten them, and when the milk

is cold, stir in the eggs, and bake or boil it till of a proper

consistency, and perfectly smooth. The spice can be omitted, and four

or five bitter almonds used in its place.

Centre-Table Gossip.

FEMALE ACCOMPLISHMENTS.

_Not_ BY MRS. CHAPENE.

LETTER-WRITING.--We are very sorry to confess the humiliating fact

that, notwithstanding the number of editions of the "Complete

Letter-Writer" that have been issued, and the quantity of female

seminaries scattered through the country, very many of our sex are

not elegant correspondents. We do not mean by this that they spell

incorrectly, fold awkwardly, or seal _splashingly_--this last has

been in some measure corrected by the introduction of self-secured

envelopes; but, nevertheless, a letter may have its round periods and

distinctly marked paragraphs, yet be destitute of the pith and marrow

of a really agreeable epistle.

Letter-writing is generally complained of as a bore, or ridiculed as

a school-girl weakness, yet it is the medium of much pleasure and

happiness, and, as such, should always be a favorite occupation with

our sex especially, who have ever been distinguished as excelling

in the art. If it is a bore to send kindly messages, to interchange

lively criticism upon popular music or reading, to record excellent

or earnest thoughts, the writer can have very little to say, and that

little might as well be left altogether, in nine cases out of ten. The

tone of such a correspondent would be frivolous, trifling, gossiping,

and no doubt the shafts of mischief, intended or careless, wing her

words. We commend to such a lady the laconic and affectionate epistle

of the French wife to her husband, if so be she must needs write at

all: "_Je vous écris parceque je n'ai rien à faire; je finis parceque

je n'ai rien à dire._ I write to you because I have nothing to do; I

finish because I have nothing to say." This would, at least, be common

honesty, and a harmless, if not satisfactory communication.

Letter-writing, in its happiest aspect, is, as we have said, a pleasant

interchange of thought, and may be made the medium of usefulness and

happiness. If every idle word we speak bears witness against us,

every thoughtless sentence written must have double weight. Spirited

narratives of passing events, a summer day's tour, even of domestic

incidents, clever criticisms, or suggestions, hearty good wishes, or

the offering of sincere sympathy, these can never offend charity or

good taste; but to write because it is expected of us is a tiresome

hypocrisy no one should feel bound to keep up, out of which mischief to

ourselves or others is almost sure to arise.

AMATEUR GARDENING.

A NEW METHOD FOR HASTENING THE BLOWING OF BULBS.--The following liquid

has been used with great advantage for this purpose: Sulphate or

nitrate of ammonia, four ounces; nitrate of potash, two ounces; sugar,

one ounce; hot water, one pint; dissolve and keep it in a well-corked

bottle. For use, put eight or ten drops of this liquid into the water

of a hyacinth glass, or jar, for bulbous-rooted plants, changing the

water every ten or twelve days. For flowering plants in pots, a few

drops must be added to the water employed to moisten them. Rain-water

is preferable for this purpose.

CITY GARDENS.--In winter, city gardens have generally a very gloomy

appearance. The greenhouse plants, which, during summer, made a

brilliant show in the open ground, have been blackened by frost, and

present that appearance of ruined beauty which it is always so painful

to contemplate. In many gardens, the pelargoniums (geraniums) and other

greenhouse plants, which have stood out during the summer in the open

ground, are suffered to remain till they are quite killed by the frost,

and are then taken up and thrown on the waste heap to rot with the dead

leaves, mowings of grass, and other vegetable refuse, in order that,

in due time, they may form vegetable mould for other plants to grow

in; but, in some cases, it is desirable to preserve the old plants of

the scarlet geraniums during the winter, in order to procure a finer

display of flowers early in the following season. When this is the

case, the plants are taken up, and the earth being shaken from their

roots, they are laid in a dry, shady, airy place, generally in the back

shed of the greenhouse; or hung up with their heads downwards for a

week or ten days. Each plant should afterwards be carefully examined,

and cleansed from all decaying matter, and the branches pruned back to

about four or five buds or eyes, the roots being shortened accordingly;

after which the plants should be either potted in small pots, or laid

in rows in a cellar with their roots covered with dry sand. Where the

cellar is not sufficiently dry, they may be put into a spare room,

passage, or shed, where the frost cannot penetrate, and where they are

kept till spring.

At this season, if the frost will permit, the beds in city gardens may

be dug over, that the earth may be ameliorated by the influence of the

air.

PARLOR WORK.

The pleasant old fashion of centre-table work has been revived, except

in New York City, perhaps, where, save in some secluded circles, every

one seems bent on disproving the preacher's proposition: "To everything

there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven."

In the busy whirl of the metropolis, there is little leisure for

domestic enjoyment. It is not even known when sleeping is accomplished;

and eating, at least the one comfortable meal they allow themselves,

is crowded between daylight and dark, at "blind-man's holiday." But in

Boston and Philadelphia, in all sober country towns and villages, where

pleasant society can be had, the work-basket makes its appearance upon

the round-table once more, and chit-chat is stimulated by busy hands.

Nice plain sewing, not so fine as to injure the eyes, nor so large as

to encumber either the workwoman or visitor, is always a graceful,

womanly resource. It does not distract the attention, and many

wearisome stitches may be set unconsciously, thus lightening hours

devoted to real task work. We would not advise embroidery as an evening

occupation, for the reason that, in most cases, it is a strain upon

the eyes, to be felt sooner or later. Embroidery is, nevertheless,

very fashionable just now; cotton embroidery for infants' shirts

and petticoats; for pocket-handkerchiefs, and the bands and sleeves

of underclothes. The patterns are, in general, points or scallops,

enriched with eyelets or dots in rows, stars or diamonds; sprays, light

wreaths, and even the elaborate work to be found at Bradbrook's, where

a single garment, with an embroidered yoke, is valued at $13, are also

in use. Worsted embroidery is chiefly used for flannels, sacques, and

skirts, or blankets for infants. Silk is also chiefly fashionable in

the wardrobes of children, their dresses, tunics, sacques, and cloaks.

For older persons, it is nearly superseded by the use of broad braids,

ribbons, and galoons as trimmings.

Worsted knitting is a favorite and appropriate branch of parlor

industry. Opera shawls are very fashionable the present season, a plain

centre, with a band of white, or some contrast on the two sides, and

a border of points or scallops in the principal color. Rigolettes, or

worsted caps, of every description, for evening wear, carriage boots,

half handkerchiefs or spencers, to be worn beneath cloaks and shawls,

infants' shirts, socks, sacques, and aprons, are included in the ample

list. For many of these, directions will be found in the "Lady's Book"

from month to month, and novelties are always in preparation for our

centre-table circle. Crochet and ornamental netting, slippers, chairs,

and ottomans of worsted work, are still in vogue.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

"MISS J. H."--The yarn required is called Saxony, and comes numbered.

For infants' shirts, 60 is the best; that is, if you knit closely,

and use moderately sized bone or wooden needles; they stretch very

much in washing. "Split zephyr" will not wash as well, although it may

look whiter and softer at first. They can also be made, if more easily

procured, from any fine domestic worsted or yarn, such as used to be

saved in New England for "best stockings." To wash an infant's knit

shirt or robin requires peculiar care.

Dip it in hot soapsuds, as hot as the hand can bear, and squeeze it out

repeatedly. Rinse in clear water of the same temperature. Then iron or

press it; but, when nearly dry, pull it into the required shape, taking

great care to stretch it down, not crosswise, or it will shrink in

length so as to be useless. It will thus look like new again.

"MRS. S. LAWTON."--It is best, in teaching a servant to wait, to have

her take all the silver first upon a tray of convenient size. It saves

from jar and breakage, and scratches the silver less. For instance, in

removing soup, she should take the spoon of each person from the right,

and then the plates can be piled smoothly and quickly upon the tray in

her second round. So of the knives and forks in the second remove. The

tray should then be cleared for the reception of the castors, salts,

etc., which should at once be set in the china closet, if convenient,

as it is useless trouble and exposure to breakage to have them placed

upon the side-table, in the midst of china and glass that has been used.

"ANNIE."--It is best to have the magazines bound at once; they are apt

to get loaned and spoiled, besides giving trouble in assorting, if kept

over a year. It is safest to file any magazine or paper intended for

binding, just as soon as every one has read it. The volumes can be done

neatly for about seventy-five cents apiece.

"A YOUNG CONTRIBUTOR" should bear in mind the oft-repeated rule

that manuscripts are to be written only on one side of the leaf. In

all conversations, the remark of each person must have separate and

distinct quotation marks, and, in general, form a separate paragraph.

By attending to a few simple rules, she will be much more likely to

find favor in the sight of editors, who are accustomed to judge of the

merit of an article by the very style of a manuscript, the unpractised

writer betraying him or herself in minor points on the very first page.

"A SUFFERER" should keep a list of all her books and magazines. It is

never well to trust too much to the honesty of acquaintances in the

matter of books and umbrellas. A bachelor friend of ours invariably

inscribed his name in full on the margin of some central chapter, with

this Scriptural hint below: "_The wicked borroweth and payeth not

again_."

"MRS. S." will receive her box in good season. The mitts were very hard

to find, as they are quite out of date, except for very old ladies.

"MRS. T. M."--The shoes were noticed a year or more ago; they are black

silk, quilted in diamonds, the sole also lined with cotton wadding. For

invalids or old persons, they are the best shoes we know.

"MISS ELIZA G.," of Macon.--The music is selected, and waits the

promised opportunity.

Fashions.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry,

millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, _the Editress of the

Fashion Department_ will hereafter execute commissions for any who

may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time

and research required. Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets,

dresses, jewelry, bridal cards, cake-boxes, envelopes, etc. etc.,

will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or

packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last,

distinct directions must be given.

_Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be

addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for

the amount, and the early execution of commissions._

_No order will be attended to unless the money is first received._

Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note

of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which

_much depends_ in choice. Dress goods from Levy's or Stewart's, bonnets

from Miss Wharton's, jewelry from Bailey's, Warden's, Philadelphia, or

Tiffany's, New York, if requested.

DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE FOR JANUARY.

_Fig. 1st._--Dinner and carriage-dress, the skirt a light taffeta

silk, with nine narrow flounces, pinked on the edge. Body of a basque

pattern, in royal purple velvet, trimmed with a fall of black lace.

Scarf of India pattern, in bright colors. White uncut velvet bonnet,

with fall and strings of embroidered ribbon. Small winter sun-shade,

of pale dove-colored silk. A carriage-cloak is thrown over the whole

figure in the open air.

_Fig. 2d._--Dress for receiving New Year's calls. A white grounded

silk, the skirt elegantly woven with a pattern of full-blown roses and

foliage in blue. Plain white body and sleeves, finished with broad

bands of blue embossed velvet. Pearl ornaments. The hair slightly

puffed, and dressed with lappets of blue and gold ribbon, intermingled

with golden leaves.

CHITCHAT UPON JANUARY FASHIONS.

We are constantly inquired of if there are no new styles for dressing

the hair, and, in response, give wood-cuts that have recently made

their appearance in the fashionable world abroad. They are very

elaborate, perhaps too much so for ordinary everyday use, where plain

bands and twists are still in vogue. For parties, however, we give No.

1.

[Illustration: No. 1.]

The front hair is parted horizontally on each side of the forehead

into three distinct divisions, each of which is turned back and forms

a roll. These _rouleaux_ may be made either of the hair alone or by

rolling it on small silk cushions, covered with hair-colored silk. In

front, they are divided by _bandeaux_ of Roman pearls.

[Illustration: No. 2.]

No. 2 is the same headdress at the back, the hair being entwined with

the pearls very low on the neck, and fastened by two pearl-headed pins,

of an antique bodkin pattern.

No. 3 is still a different style, more in accordance with the taste of

our grandmothers, especially the small flat curls on the temples. A

light plume is entwined with the Grecian braid at the back of the head.

[Illustration: No. 3.]

We give these, as we have said before, more from their novelty than

grace. For ordinary wear, plain bands on each side the temple, drawn

out wide where the size and shape of the head admit of it, are

principally seen. The back hair is formed into a French twist flat to

the head, around which the rest is disposed in a close circle, either

twisted, roped, or braided, leaving the smooth twist displayed in the

centre. "Roping" the hair is done by dividing it in two equal parts,

and twisting one over the other, a kind of round braid, taking its name

from the resemblance it bears when smoothly managed to a hempen rope or

cable.

Speaking of which reminds us that hair ornaments were never more

worn than now. Several very beautiful stands of designs have been on

exhibition in the Crystal Palace, some of them quite plain, suitable

for mourning, others richly set with gold, enamel, and even precious

stones. Among the more costly we have described in our foreign

correspondence, is a set recently completed in Paris for a foreign

princess. It consists of a necklace, bracelet, and ear-rings. The

hair is said to be that of a celebrated Spanish beauty, very dark,

and wrought into small globes resembling beads of various size. These

globes are transparent, and are wrought in a style of such exquisite

delicacy that they seem to be made of the finest lace. They are

clustered together like drooping bunches of grapes, and between each

bunch there is a small tulip formed of diamonds. The ear-rings consist

of pendent drops, formed of hair beads, with tops consisting of diamond

tulips. Hair ornaments similar to these are made with pearls, gold,

or silver, in place of the diamonds; fortunately for people who like

tasteful jewelry, and are _not_ foreign princesses.

Two bracelets, made for a wealthy English lady, are also described,

and, as there is a mania for this description of ornaments, we copy

it for those ordering hair-work from a distance, or who are curious

in these matters. One, made of very fair, soft, glossy hair, is in

the form of a serpent, having the rings on its back, distinctly

marked by a peculiar method of plaiting the hair. This serpent is

represented as creeping gracefully on a long reed leaf, made of green

enamel in natural shades, the head being studded with emeralds. The

other bracelet consists of a flat band, formed of plaited hair of

various shades, and the shades so disposed as to intersect each other

transversely, forming a kind of chequered pattern. Five medallions

are affixed to this band, each opening by a spring in the manner of

a watch-case, and within are a name and date, or any inscription

appropriate to those whose tresses have formed the memento. For plain

bracelets, there is the round elastic band, fastened by a broad gold

band or link, to which is attached a single medallion, inclosing hair

too short to be braided. Two of these bands, twisted or roped together,

make a heavier bracelet. There is another, inclosing a steel spring,

having the head or tail of a serpent in gold, and thus appearing to

coil about the wrist; a common device, but one we do not much fancy.

Brooches are made in the form of knots, bows, clasps, etc. Plain flat

rings, with a gold band just wide enough for initials, or fastened by

a tiny gold knot or buckle, are great favorites, and make a simple,

tasteful love-token. Pendents for bracelets or brooches, in every

shape, are worn, and tipped with gold, lyres, harps, baskets, acorns,

etc. etc., all of fairy-like delicacy and proportions. Ear-rings

in globes, as described above, acorns, harps, baskets, etc., are

also worn. The Swiss style, once thought so tasteful--flat flowers,

feathers, landscapes, and funeral urns, pictured on a white ground, and

set as cameos--are almost entirely out of date.

The changes of the present month in outside garments are by no means

important. More furs are seen of the usual variety, from ermine and

sable down to the equally comfortable Siberian or gray squirrel and

fitch. The tippets are giving place almost entirely to the large round

capes of twenty years ago; muffs are still small, and cuffs worn as

much as ever. Velvet and cloth circular, or Talma cloaks, are again in

favor, of several new varieties in trimming. Some of them consist of

two and three capes, one above the other, like the horseman's cloak

capes, once so fashionable for gentlemen. The favorite trimming which

has replaced the narrow velvet ribbons of last year is broad satin

galoon of different patterns. Beaver bonnets for children, at Oakford's

and Genin's, are trimmed principally with satin bands and plaited satin

ribbons, making a glossy contrast. We consider beaver as most suitable

for the little people. Satin and velvet are the favorite materials for

ladies' hats, and close plumes will be worn as much as ever, feathers

being used in inside trimming for the brim, mixed with knots of ribbon.

DESCRIPTION OF CHILDREN'S DRESSES.

(_See Cuts in front of Book._)

_No. 1._--Boy's skirt and jacket of dark cashmere, the latter open,

with a front in imitation of a vest, of pale buff kerseymere. Plain

linen collar and undersleeves, with a small ribbon necktie.

_No. 2._--Street coat of dark green pelisse cloth, trimmed with velvet

to correspond, suitable for a boy from three to six years old.

_No. 3._--Little girl's dress, with basque and tunic skirt, trimmed

with scalloped frills of the same material. Short pantalettes, with

narrow tucks.

_No. 4._--Dress and loose sacque jacket, of embroidered fawn-colored

cashmere; the sleeves have a deep cuff, and, for cold weather, a plain

plaited muslin chemisette may be worn to protect the neck.

FASHION.

The Toilet.

MILK OF ALMONDS is used to bathe the face, and is made thus: Bruise

some sweet almonds in a mortar, and add water by slow degrees, in the

proportion of a pint to twenty or thirty almonds; put to this a piece

of sugar, to prevent the separation of the oil from the water, rubbing

assiduously. Pass the whole through a flannel, and perfume it with

orange-flower water.

TOOTH POWDER.--Mix together equal parts of powdered chalk and charcoal,

and add a small quantity of Castile soap. These produce a powder which

will keep the teeth beautifully white.

A COOLING WASH FOR THE HANDS AND FACE.--A correspondent writes: "The

following has been used in my family some years: An equal quantity of

ammonia and soap liniment, one teaspoonful in the water."

WARTS.--These are got rid of in various ways. Some tie a thread round

their base; but a better plan is to have a piece of thick paper, with

a hole cut in it, the size of the wart; this is put over the wart, and

then every morning a drop or two of the strongest acetic acid should

be dropped through the hole upon the wart. If this do not succeed,

dropping oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) in the same way will answer.

HOW TO MAKE TRANSPARENT SOAP.--Equal parts of tallow soap, made

perfectly dry, and spirits of wine, are to be put into a copper still,

which is plunged into a water-bath, and furnished with its capital and

refrigeratory. The heat applied to effect the solution should be as

slight as possible, to avoid evaporating too much of the alcohol. The

solution being effected, it must be suffered to settle; and, after a

few hours repose, the clear supernatant liquid is drawn off into tin

frames of the form desired for the cakes of soap. These bars do not

acquire their proper degree of transparency till after a few weeks'

exposure to dry air. The soap is colored with strong alcoholic solution

of ochre for the rose tint, and turmeric for the deep yellow.

TO MAKE COURT-PLASTER.--Stretch tightly some thin black or

flesh-colored silk in a wooden frame, securing it with packthread or

small tacks. Then go all over it with a soft bristle brush, dipped in

dissolved isinglass or strong gum-arabic water. Give it two or three

coats, letting it dry between each. Then go several times over it with

white of egg.

TO CLEAN FOUL SPONGE.--When very foul, wash them in dilute tartaric

acid, rinsing them afterwards in water: it will make them very soft and

white. Be careful to dilute the acid well.

TO KEEP SILK.--Silk articles should not be kept folded in white paper,

as the chloride of lime used in bleaching the paper will probably

impair the color of the silk. Brown or blue paper is better--the

yellowish smooth India paper is best of all. Silk intended for a dress

should not be kept in the house long before it is made up, as lying

in the folds will have a tendency to impair its durability by causing

it to cut or split, particularly if the silk has been thickened by

gum. We knew an instance of a very elegant and costly thread-lace veil

being found on its arrival from France cut into squares (and therefore

destroyed) by being folded over a pasteboard card. A white satin dress

should be pinned up in blue paper, with coarse brown paper outside,

sewed together at the edges.

[Illustration: THE LATEST FASHIONS.]

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Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 48, January, 1854 · 第 16 / 17 段