faithfully represent the extreme elegance of the basket, yet it will,
as you say, give you a notion of the general effect."
"It is, indeed, very pretty. I see the sides are transparent; they, I
suppose, are made of the filet."
"Yes; and you will begin by cutting a piece of the netting long and
deep enough for the four sides, as it is joined only at one of the
corners. Take great care to cut it accurately, or your flowers will
not run evenly. It must be cut to appear in diamonds, not in squares.
Another piece will be required for the bottom of the basket. On these
a pattern must be darned in colored silks. I have drawn you one which
will do nicely for the sides."
[Illustration: DARNING PATTERNS.]
"It is very small, is it not, mamma?"
"It is intended that one of these designs shall be seen in each
compartment of the basket. You will see that there are three on each
side, and two at each end--ten altogether--so that the pattern is to be
repeated that number of times."
"How shall I manage to keep them at equal distances, mamma?"
"I think I should fold the length of netting into ten parts, and run a
white thread to mark each separate piece. Now you will require three
colors for the darning; what will you choose?"
"What do you think of sky-blue, with maize and scarlet? They would be
very pretty, would they not?"
"Very; but then all the trimmings must be in sky-blue, and as you want
something rather effective for candle-light, I would suggest that a
rich crimson or scarlet would be a better predominant color. With it
you might have green and gold, or green and blue."
"Green and blue form a mixture that I cannot fancy to be pretty, mamma.
Do you like the effect of it?"
"Not much; but it is very fashionable. The French introduce it into
everything, and call it _préjugé vaincu_, or, prejudice conquered."
"Well, I am afraid, mamma, that my prejudice is unconquerable; so if
you please, we will have maize and green in preference. How am I to use
these colors?"
"Do the upper part of the design in scarlet, the lower in green, and
the spots up the centre, and between the designs, in maize. In darning,
work half the design, from the centre, leaning towards the right hand,
and the other half towards the left."
"Am I to use the same pattern for the bottom of the basket?"
"Not in its present form; but if you repeat the design, _reversed_,
from the lower part, so as to leave the _points_ for the ends, it
will be very suitable. You may add a star or diamond, or something
very simple, to fill the spaces at the sides. When all the darning is
done, detach the card-board which forms the bottom, tack the wadding
down on one side of it, and cover it on this side with the black satin
and netting, and on the other with the black satin only. Now all the
framework of the basket is to be entirely covered with the narrow
sarsnet ribbon I have given you for the purpose, the short wires being
covered, and the ends secured, before the handle, top, and bottom of
the frame are done. Stretch the netting which forms the sides very
carefully on. Sew it at the joint, and also at the edges of the net.
Now quill the satin ribbon in the centre, into a full and handsome
plait; trim the handle with it. Sew the pasteboard bottom in, and add
the gimps round the top, while one only may be used for the lower part."
"I might easily add a cover, might I not, mamma?"
"You might, my dear; but in that case the basket should be lined with
satin, of some good color, and the piece of netting you did for the
bottom would form the upper part of the top. In the inner part of the
cover you might then add a double-stitched ribbon across, to hold
scissors, stiletto, &c. But your basket, though more useful, perhaps,
would not be so light and elegant as it is at present."
"If you think so, mamma, we will have it so, and for once let well
alone."
EMBROIDERY FOR PETTICOATS.
[Illustration]
CHEMISETTES, SLEEVES, AND CAPS.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
It will be noticed that we have adopted the excellent fashion of the
"_Moniteur_," and now give an undersleeve and chemisette to correspond.
No French woman would be guilty of wearing a collar of one style and
sleeves of another, yet our countrywomen constantly commit this breach
of toilet etiquette.
Figs. 1 and 2 are one set, intended for winter wear, as will be seen
from the close cuff of the sleeve; it is composed of lace insertion and
edging. The large square collar has superseded the frills, bands, and
even the deep-pointed _mousquetaire_ of the past season.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
Figs. 3 and 4 are in excellent taste though of different styles. The
chemisette and sleeve are composed of Swiss muslin, insertion, and
edging. They can be copied at a very small expense, but will need
particular care in clear-starching and ironing.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
Fig. 5 is a breakfast cap of alternate Swiss muslin insertion, the
frill and fall surrounding the face; an old style reintroduced.
_Coques_ of ribbon separate it, and there are strings of the same.
[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
Fig. 6 has also an entire frill, though falling more behind the ear.
It is relieved by knots of ribbon. Either of them is suitable for a
sick-room cap.
THE HORTENSE MANTELET AND THE VICTORIA.
(_See Brown Plate in front of Book._)
THE HORTENSE MANTELET.
The form is round and exceedingly small. The body of the mantelet
is of very rich emerald green satin. The edge is cut out in large
rounded points, bordered with three rows of narrow black velvet, and
on each of the points are fixed three ornaments of cut black velvet
in straight rows. The intervals between the satin points at the edge
of the mantelet are filled up by Brussels net, covered with rows of
narrow black velvet. The Brussels net is cut out in pointed vandykes,
each vandyke being between the rounded points of the satin. The whole
is finished by a deep fall of black lace, set on full. The neck of
the mantelet is trimmed with rows of narrow black velvet, and cut
ornaments, the same as those on the points at the lower part.
THE VICTORIA.
This mantelet has received the name of Victoria in honor of the English
queen, for whom one after the same pattern has recently been made.
The material is silk of a peculiarly beautiful tint; fawn color with
a tinge of gold. This is an entirely new color, and is distinguished
in Paris by the name of _aurifère_. The Victoria mantelet is round in
form, netting easily on the shoulders, but without hanging in fulness.
The upper part of the mantelet is trimmed with several rows of figured
silt braid, of a bright groseille color, edged with small points of
gold. Attached to the lower row of braid is a deep fringe of the color
of the mantelet, having at intervals long tassels of groseille color.
At the back, between the shoulders, a bow of silk, having two rounded
ends, finished by groseille tassels, gives the effect of a hood. The
mantelet is finished at the bottom with rows of groseille colored
braid, and fringe corresponding with that described in the trimming of
the upper part.
CHILD'S DRESS.
[Illustration: CHILD'S DRESS.]
[Illustration: BRAIDING ROUND DRESS.]
This is a very pretty light dress for a little girl. The material used
may either be a light silk or French merino; the trimming a narrow silk
braid, which, according to the taste of the maker, may be extended down
the body and round the sleeves.
The pattern of mantle, as given in the diagrams, is a pretty addition
to the dress when worn out of doors.
DESCRIPTION OF DIAGRAMS.
Fig. 1 represents the front of frock.
Fig. 2 the back of frock. Join _a_ to _a_ (Fig. 1), _b_ to _b_, _c_ to
_c_.
Fig. 3.--Piece cut out for trimming down the front.
Fig. 4.--Piece to join at _a_ to _a_ (Fig. 3), to form trimming down
the back.
Fig. 5.--Pattern of sleeve, the narrow part of which should fall on
shoulder.
Fig. 6.--Front of mantle.
Fig. 7.--Back of mantle. Join _a_ to _a_ (Fig. 6), _b_ to _b_.
[Illustration: DIAGRAMS FOR CHILD'S DRESS.]
THE HUNGARIAN CIRCLE.
(_See Plate in front of Book._)
This admirable style of winter costume is pronounced _par excellence_
among the favorites of the season, recommending itself by its exceeding
comfort, great simplicity of adjustment, and its elegance of outline
and exquisite proportions. Its _tout ensemble_ is absolutely charming.
It is indiscriminately formed of clothes or velvets, in all the
prevailing colors, plain or ornamented with embroideries, galoons, or,
if of cloth, with velvet passementeries, or other trimmings.
We have selected for illustration one composed of mode cloth,
charmingly embroidered in a chaste and unique design of intermingled
branches. The back is three-quarters circle for medium-sized persons,
and thirty-three inches deep. It is seamed down the back, and is cut
bias.
This circular is sewn upon the under lower edge--about one inch from
the edge--of a yoke, which thus appears like a cape. This yoke is
adjusted smoothly to the neck, but is very slightly full upon the
shoulders. It likewise is cut bias. Its depth at the back is twelve
inches, upon the shoulders eight, and in front to the points thirteen
inches.
The circular is gathered into one wide and two narrow plaits where it
joins the points, which are similar to the tabs of a mantilla, and thus
forms the appearance of sleeves.
The fronts are thirty-two inches from the neck to the bottom. A collar,
four inches deep at the back, where it is slightly pointed, completes
the garment.
It has a bow upon the middle of the lower edge of the yoke, with
streamers, and is lined with taffeta in color to match.
TOILET COVER IN CROCHET.
The pattern consists of a handsome square, with a rich border on three
sides. A foundation chain of 400 stitches must be made, which will
allow for a close square at each edge of the toilet. To correspond with
the edge, do one row of dc, before beginning to work the pattern from
the engraving.
[Illustration]
_Materials._--Twelve reels Messrs. W. Evans & Co.'s boar's-head
crochet cotton, No. 12.
The entire centre square is given, but not the whole of the front of
the border. When the centre of each row is reached, however, it will be
very easy to work the remainder backwards. The whole cover is done in
square crochet. The border may be added all round, if desired; but this
form, being a perfect square, is not so suited for a toilet table.
It may be trimmed either with fringe (done like that of the
anti-macassars lately given), or with a handsome crochet lace, several
designs for which we have furnished in various numbers.
EMBROIDERY FOR SHIRTS.
[Illustration]
COTTAGE FURNITURE.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
Fig. 1 is what is called a bed cupboard, with a shelf and top having
two flaps.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
Fig. 2 is a chiffonier pier-table for placing between windows.
EDITORS' TABLE.
"THE GOOD TIME COMING."--Coming! In our blessed land it has come. Are
not the means of happiness around us in inexhaustible profusion? All
now needed is, that human energies be engaged as earnestly in working
up these materials, and using these advantages _for good_, as men work
for gold; and the wonderful, waited-for era is here.
Have we not steam for a Pegasus, lightning for a postman, and the
glorious sun for an artist to help, or rather hurry onward, the work
of improvement in all material things? and free institutions, free
schools, and a free press, to aid, or rather force, mental development!
and the open Bible, the Christian Sabbath, and the preached gospel to
enlighten the soul!
Nothing seems wanting but heavenward faith and human endeavor.
Women have much, very much to do in this work. Home is the centre of
happiness; the cradle of every heroic man is tended by woman's angel
care; his soul bears the impress of her kindly teachings, as the
daguerreotype plate shows the kiss of the sun in the picture it calls
forth. Every mother should aim to make her son worthy of living in the
"good time," and then it will be.
Oh, but there are terrible evils to suffer--evils that will forever
surround humanity--poverty, pain, death! Can we have the "good time" on
earth, while these inevitable evils haunt us?
Death is not an evil to the good, but only the seal of eternal,
unchangeable blessedness. Poverty may be made the means of increased
and exquisite happiness to society, when the true principles of
Christian charity, and brotherly love, and gratitude are universally
observed. Disease will lose most of its malignity when God's laws,
impressed on our physical nature, are understood and obeyed; and pain
has been mitigated, indeed, nearly annihilated, by the wonderful
discovery of etherization, which seems now providentially brought
to the aid of suffering humanity, so that all classes of mankind
might find cause for rejoicing in the "good time." The aid of this
Lethean balm in banishing the horrors of the hospital, can hardly be
over-estimated; the merits of the discovery are yet but partially
acknowledged; we must leave these themes to the medical corps--but the
good results on humanity our sex ought most thankfully to acknowledge.
This thought reminds us of a duty we owe our readers--an introduction
to the _home_ of one who has most certainly done his part towards
helping on the "good time." The paper has been delayed for want of
room; but it shall go in now, as a fit tribute for the New Year.
_Etherton Cottage_--_A Visit there._--Our readers will remember an
engraving of this beautiful cottage in our March number of last year.
We gave then a slight sketch of the discovery of Etherization, and of
the struggles through which Dr. W. T. G. Morton had fought his way
onward to the completion of his great purpose; and how he had proved,
by the testimony of the most honored members of the Medical profession
in Massachusetts, his right to claim the discovery of the "Anæsthetic
and pain-subduing qualities of Sulphuric Ether." But great scientific
discoverers, like great poets, are not always as happy at home as they
are celebrated abroad. _Fame_ is not always, we are sorry to say,
synonymous with _domestic felicity_. Those who unite both, deserve
amaranths among their laurels, and both are deserved by the owner of
Etherton Cottage, as we think our lady friends will agree, when they go
with us to that pleasant home, where we had the pleasure of spending a
day during our last summer tour in New England.
West Needham, notwithstanding its poor prosaic name, is really a
pretty, pastoral-looking place, surrounded by low, wooded hills,
protecting, as it were, the fine farms and orchards, and the pleasant
dwellings, everywhere seen in the valleys and on the uplands around.
In twenty minutes after leaving the bustle of Boston, if the cars
make good speed, you will reach this rural scene, where Nature still
holds her quiet sway, except when the steam-horse goes snorting and
thundering by.
Here, in the heart of this still life, Doctor Morton, some seven years
ago, selected an uncultivated lot, covered with bushes, brambles, and
rocks, and, by his own science and taste, and the strong arm of Irish
labor, he has formed a home of such finished beauty as would seem to
require, at least, in its gardens and grounds, a quarter of a century
to perfect. His grounds slope down to the railroad embankment; but
a plantation of young trees, and on the height above, thick groves,
of a larger growth, hide the buildings from view as the cars pass
on this great route from Boston to the West. From the station it is
a pleasant drive through the shaded and winding way as you ascend
the rising grounds to the south. Suddenly turning a shoulder of the
knoll, Etherton Cottage is before you. The effect was fine, and what
made the scene more interesting to us was the presence of another
cottage nestled near by, smaller but equally pleasant-looking, where
we knew Dr. Morton had settled his good parents. Here they live as
one household, and from the windows of Etherton Cottage may be seen
the dwelling of another member of the family, a sister, now happily
married, for whom the Doctor also cared.
We might give a long description of these pretty cottages and beautiful
grounds, but words are wasted to little purpose in landscape or
architectural descriptions. So leaving the walks, arbors, flowers, and
fountains, we will introduce you at once to Mrs. Morton, a lady whose
attractions and merits we had heard much praised while in Washington
last winter. She is, indeed, one of those true women who seem born to
show that Solomon's old picture of a good wife and mother may now be
realized. The Doctor seems very fond and proud of her, as he may well
be; and their children--the eldest a girl of nine, the youngest a boy
of three years, with a brother and sister between--formed a lovely
group of more interest to us than all the "superb views" around. So we
will just tell you, dear reader, of the family and their home pursuits,
as these were revealed to us during that interesting visit.
We should say here that Doctor Morton has relinquished his profession,
and now passes his summers entirely at this country residence, and his
winters in Washington, where he hopes soon to gain from Congress some
reward for his great discovery of Etherization. When this is granted,
he intends visiting Europe, where he is urgently invited by the savans
of the Old World. It will be a triumph for Young America to send forth
a man so young, who has won such distinction. It seemed but a few years
since we first saw Willie Morton, a clerk in the publisher's office
where our own magazine was issued; and now we were his guest, in his
own elegant dwelling, surrounded by every requisite of happiness.
His country life is just what it should be, devoted to rural pursuits
and filled up with plans of home improvements. You only feel the
presence of his inventive genius by its active operation on the
material world around. Not a word is heard of "chloroform" or "ether"
at Etherton Cottage; but various contrivances for obviating all defects
or difficulties in bringing his domain into the perfect order he has
planned, meet you at every turning, and all sorts of odd combinations
appear, which, when understood, are found to contribute to the
beauty or utility of the whole. In short, everything useful is made
ornamental, and the ornamental is made useful.
Then the Doctor has a passion for surrounding himself with domestic
animals. This we like; it makes a country home more cheerful when dumb
dependents on human care share the abundance of God's blessings. So
after dinner we went to the barn to see the "pigs and poultry." This
barn, fronting north, was quite a model structure, built on the side
of the sloping ground, combining, in its arrangements, rooms for the
gardener (an Englishman) and his family, and the barn proper, where the
horse and cow had what a young lady called "splendid accommodations."
There was also a coach-house and tool-room, a steam-engine room where
fodder was cut up, and food--that is, grain of several kinds--ground
for the swine and poultry; also a furnace where potatoes were steamed.
The water was brought by hydraulic machinery from a brook at the bottom
of the grounds for use in the barn, and everything was managed with
scientific skill and order.
The arrangements for the poultry were very elaborate. Their rooms were
the first floor at the back or southern front of the barn; of course,
half underground. This lower story had a lattice-work front, and within
Mrs. Biddy had every accommodation hen life could desire. Into these
apartments the troop were allowed to enter at evening through a wicket
opening in this southern front; but in the morning the poultry all
passed out into the north-eastern portion of the grounds allotted them,
where was a pool of water for the water-fowl, and a fine range for
all. Still, the green field at the south, the running brook, and the
eventide meal made them all eager to rush in whenever the gate between
the two portions of their range was opened. It was this rush we went to
witness.
We stood in the main floor, near the southern or back door of the barn,
which overlooked the green field: the little gate opened, and such a
screaming, crowing, gabbling ensued, and such a flutter of wings, that
for a few minutes it was nearly deafening. A pair of Chinese geese
led the way of this feathered community. These geese, a present from
the late statesman, Daniel Webster, to Dr. Morton, who prized them
accordingly, were entirely brown, of large size, carrying their heads
very high, and walking nearly upright; they sent forth shouts that made
the air ring. They seemed to consider themselves the Celestials, and
all beside inferiors. Next, came a pair of wild geese; one wing cut,
and thus obliged to remain in the yard, they had become quite tame;
but still, their trumpet-call seemed to tell their love of freedom.
These, too, were brown, with black heads, and long lithe necks, that
undulated like the motions of a snake, with every movement. Very
unlike these were the next pair of snow-white Bremen geese, stout,
fat, contented-looking creatures, only making the usual gabbling of
geese which are well to do in the world. Among the varieties of the
duck genus were several of the Poland species; snowy white, except the
vermilion-colored spots on the head, that look like red sealingwax
plasters round the eyes. These ducks made a terrible _quackery_. But
the domestic fowl was the multitude: there appeared to be all kinds and
species, from the tall Shanghais, that seemed to stalk on stilts, to
the little boatlike creepers that move as if on castors. It was a queer
sight, such an army of hens and chickens, rushing hither and thither,
to pick up the grain scattered for their supper. And then the pride of
the old peacock; he just entered with the rest, then spread his heavy
wings and flew up to the ridge-pole of the barn, where he sat alone in
his glory. It was, altogether, a pleasant sight.
But within the barn was a lovelier spectacle. From the centre beam hung
a large rope, its lower end passing through a circular board, about the
size of a round tea-table; four smaller ropes passed through holes near
the edge of this round board, at equal distances, and were united with
the large rope several yards above, thus forming four compartments,
with the centre rope for a resting-place. In these snug spaces were
seated the four beautiful children, like birds in a nest, swinging
every way in turn as the little feet that first touched the floor gave
impulse.
It was a lovely picture of childhood made happy by parental care for
the amusements of infancy. The father's genius had designed that swing
to give pleasure, as it had discovered the elixir for pain, by taking
thought for others. With both Dr. Morton and his amiable wife, the
training of their little ones seemed the great subject of interest. The
children were _well governed_, this was easy to see, and thus a very
important point in their instruction was made sure. They were also made
happy by every innocent and healthful recreation. Their future destiny
seemed the engrossing object of their parents' minds; to bring up these
little ones in the fear and love of the Lord, their most earnest desire.
During the evening, the topic of education was the chief one discussed,
and we parted from this interesting family fully assured that the good
old Puritan mode of uniting faith in God with human endeavor was there
understood and acted on. Miss Bremer might find, at Etherton Cottage, a
charming illustration of her "love-warmed homes in America."
* * * * *