CHAPTER VI.

ANCIENT GLACIERS IN THE EASTERN HEMISPHERE.

About two million square miles of northern Europe were covered with

perennial ice during the Glacial period. From the scratches upon the

rocks, and from the direction in which material has been transported,

it is evident that the main centre of radiation is to be found in the

mountains of Scandinavia, and that the glaciers still existing in Norway

are the lineal descendants of those of the great Ice age.

So shallow are the Baltic Sea and the German Ocean, that their basins

were easily filled with ice, upon which Scandinavian boulders could be

transported westward to the east shore of England, southward into the

plains of Germany, and eastward far out upon the steppes of Russia. The

islands north of Scotland bear marks also of an ice-movement from the

direction of Norway. If Scotland itself was not overrun with Scandinavian

glaciers, the reason was that it had ice enough of its own, and from

its highlands set up a counter-movement, which successfully resisted

the invasion from the Scandinavian Peninsula. But, elsewhere in Europe,

Scandinavian ice moved freely outward to the extent of its capacity.

Then, as now also, the Alps furnished centres for ice-movement, but the

glaciers were limited to the upper portions of the valleys of the Rhône,

the Rhine, and the Danube upon the west and north, and to a still smaller

area upon the southern side.

[Illustration: Fig. 40.

MAP showing

GLACIATED AREAS

in North America and Europe.]

_Central and Southern Europe._

The main centres of ice-movement in the Alps during the Glacial period

are the same as those which furnish the lingering glaciers of the present

time. From the water-shed between the Rhine, the Rhône, and the Aar,

glaciers of immense size descended all the valleys now occupied by those

streams. The valley of the Rhône between the Bernese and the Pennine

Alps was filled with a glacier of immense depth, which was maintained

by fresh supplies from tributaries upon either side as far down as

Martigny. Glacial markings at the head of the Rhône Valley are found upon

the Schneestock,[BK] at an elevation above the sea of about 11,500 feet

(3,550 metres), or about 1,500 feet above the present surface of the

Rhône Glacier. At Fiesch, about twenty miles below, where tributaries

from the Bernese Oberland snow-fields were received, the thickness of

the glacier was upwards of 5,000 feet (1,680 metres). Near Martigny,

about fifty miles farther down the valley, where the glacier was abruptly

deflected to the north, the depth of the ice was still upwards of 1,600

metres. From Martigny northward the thickness of the ice decreased

rapidly for a few miles, where, at the enlargement of the valley above

the head of Lake Geneva, it was less than 1,200 metres in thickness, and

spread out over the intervening plain as far as Chasseron, with a nearly

level surface, transporting, as we have before said, Alpine boulders

to the flanks of the Juras, and landing them about 3,000 feet (1,275

metres) above the level of Lake Geneva. The width of the main valley is

here about fifty miles, making the slope of the surface of the ice about

twenty feet to the mile.

[Footnote BK: A. Falsan's La Période Grlaciaire étudiée principalement en

France et en Suisse, chapitre xv.]

From its "vomitory," at the head of Lake Geneva, the ice of the ancient

Rhône Glacier spread to the right and to the left, while its northern

boundary was abruptly terminated by the line of the Jura Mountains. The

law of glacial motion was, however, admirably illustrated in the height

to which the ice rose upon the flanks of the Jura. At Chasseron, in the

direct line of its onward motion, it rose to its highest point, while

both to the southwest and to the northeast, along the line of the Juras,

the ice-action was limited to constantly decreasing levels.

Down the valley of the Rhône the direction of motion was determined by

the depression of Lake Geneva, at the lower end of which it received its

main tributary from Mont Blanc, which had come down from Chamouni through

the valley of the river Arve. From this point it was deflected by a spur

of the Jura Mountains more and more southward to the vicinity of Culoz,

near the mouth of Lake Bourget. Here the glacier coming down from the

western flanks of the Alps, through the upper valley of the Isère, past

Chambéry, became predominant, and deflected the motion to the west and

north, whither the ice extended to a line passing through Bourg, Lyons,

and Vienne, leaving upon one of the eminences on which Lyons is built a

boulder several feet in diameter, which is duly preserved and labelled

in the public park in that portion of the city. Farther south, glaciers

of less extent marked the Alps most of the way to the Mediterranean, but

they were not at all comparable in size to those from the central region.

To the right of Lake Geneva the movement started by the Rhône Glacier

spread eastward, being joined in the vicinity of Berne by the confluent

ice-stream which descended from the north flank of the Bernese Oberland,

through the valley of the Aar. These united streams filled the whole

valley with ice as far down as Soleure.[BL]

[Footnote BL: See map of Rhône Glacier, on p. 58.]

[Illustration: MAP OF

GLACIAL MOVEMENTS

IN FRANCE AND

SWITZERLAND.]

Farther eastward, other ice-streams from the Alps became predominant,

one of which, moving down the Reuss, deployed out upon the country lying

north of Lucerne and Zug. Still farther down, the ancient glacier which

descended the Limmatt spread itself out over the hills and lowlands about

Zürich, one of its moraines of retrocession nearly dividing the lake into

two portions.

Guyot and others have shown that the superficial deposits of this

portion of Switzerland are just such as would be distributed by glaciers

coming down from the above-mentioned Alpine valleys. Uniting together

north of Zürich, these glaciers pushed onward as far as the Rhine below

Schaffhausen. In Frickthal the glacial ice was still 1,200 feet thick,

and at Kaisterberg between 400 and 500 feet.

At Lucerne there is a remarkable exposure of pot-holes, and a glaciated

surface such as could be produced only by the combined action of moving

ice and running water; thus furnishing to tourists an instructive

object-lesson. Among the remarkable instances of boulders transported

a long distance in Switzerland, is that of a block of granite carried

from the Valais to the vicinity of Soleure, a distance of one hundred

and fifteen miles, which weighs about 4,100 tons. "The celebrated

Pierre-à-Bot, above Neufchâtel, measures 50' × 20' × 40', and contains

about 40,000 cubic feet of stone; while the Pierre-des-Marmettes, near

Monthey, contains no less than 60,840 cubic feet."

The ancient glacier of the Rhine, receiving its initial impulse in

the same centre as that of the Rhône, fully equalled it in all its

dimensions. Descending eastward from its source near the Schneestock

to Chur, a distance of fifty miles, it turned northward and continued

forty-five miles farther to the head of Lake Constance, where it spread

out in fan-shape, extending northwest to Thiengen, below Schaffhausen,

and covering a considerable area north and northeastward of the lake,

reaching in the latter direction Ulm, upon the Danube--the whole distance

of the movement being more than one hundred and fifty miles. Through

other valleys tributary to the Danube, glaciers descended upon the upper

plains of Bavaria, from the Tyrolese Alps to the vicinity of Munich.

From Gross Glockner as a centre in the Noric Alps, vast rivers of ice,

of which the Pasterzen Glacier is the remnant, poured far down into the

valleys of the Inn and the Enns on the north and into that of the Drave

on the southeast. Farther eastward in this part of Europe the mountains

seem to have been too low to have furnished centres for any general

dispersion of glacial ice.

[Illustration: Fig. 41.--Map showing the Lines of _Débris_ extending

from the Alps into the Plains of the Po (after Lyell). _A._ Crest of

the Alpine water-shed; _B._ Névé-fields of the ancient glaciers; _C._

Moraines of ancient glaciers.]

Upon the south side of the Alps the ancient glaciers spread far out

upon the plains of Lombardy, where moraines of vast extent and of every

description enable the student to determine the exact limits of the

ancient ice-action. From the southern flanks of Mont Blanc and Monte

Rosa, and from the snow-fields of the western Alps, glaciers of great

volume descended into the valley of Dora Baltea (vale of Aosta), and

on emerging from the mountain valley Spread Out over the plains around

Ivrea, leaving moraine hills in some instances 1,500 feet in height.

The total length of this glacier was as much as one hundred and twenty

miles. From the snow-fields in the vicinity of Mont Cenis, also, glaciers

extended down the Dora Ripera to the vicinity of Turin, and down other

valleys to a less extent. The lateral moraines of the Diore, on the south

side of Mont Blanc, at the head of the Dora Baltea, are 2,000 feet above

the present river, and extend upon the left bank for a distance of twenty

miles.

From the eastern Alps, glaciers descended through all the valleys of the

Italian lakes and deposited vast terminal moraines, which still obstruct

the drainage, and produce the charming lakes of that region. A special

historic interest pertains to the series of concentric moraines south of

Lake Garda, since it was in the reticulations of this glacial deposit

that the last great battle for Italian liberty was fought on June 24,

1859. Defeated in the engagements farther up the valley of the Po, the

Austrian general Benedek took his final stand to resist the united forces

of France and Italy behind an outer semicircle of the moraine hills south

of this lake (some of which are 500 or 600 feet above the surrounding

country), with his centre at Solferino, about ten miles from Peschera.

Here, behind this natural fortification, he awaited the enemy, who was

compelled to perform his manoeuvres on the open plain which spread out

on every side. But the natural fortifications furnished by the moraine

hills were too extensive to be defended by an army of moderate size.

The troops of Napoleon and Victor Immanuel concentrated at Solferino

and broke through the line. Thus the day was lost to the Austrians, and

they retired from Lombardy, leaving to Italy both the artificial and the

natural fortifications that guard the southern end of this important

entrance to the Tyrolese Alps. When once his attention is called to the

subject, the traveller upon the railroad cannot fail to notice this

series of moraines, as he enters it through a tunnel at Lonato on the

west, and emerges from it at Soma Campagna, eighteen or twenty miles

distant to the east. A monument celebrating the victory stands upon a

moraine hill about half-way between, at Martino della Battaglie.

In other portions of central and southern Europe the mountains were too

low to furnish important centres for glacial movements. Still, to a

limited extent, the signs of ancient glaciers are seen in the mountains

of the Black Forest, in the Harz and Erzgebirge, and in the Carpathians

on the east and among the Apennines on the south. In Spain, also, there

were limited ice-fields on the higher portions of the Sierra Nevada

and in the mountains of Estremadura, and perhaps in some other places.

In France, small glaciers were to be found in the higher portions

of the Auvergne, of the Morvan, of the Vosges, and of the Cevennes;

while, from the Pyrenees, glaciers extended northward throughout nearly

their whole extent. The ice-stream descending from the central mass of

Maladetta through the upper valley of the Garonne, was joined by several

tributaries, and attained a length of about forty-five miles.

_The British Isles._

During the climax of the Glacial period the Hebrides to the north of

Scotland were covered with ice to a depth of 1,600 feet. How far westward

of this it moved out to the sea, it is of course impossible to tell. But

in the channels between the Hebrides and Scotland it is evident that

the water was completely expelled by the ice, and that, from a height

of 1,600 feet above the Hebrides to the northern shores of Scotland,

there was a continuous ice-field sloping southward at the rate of about

twenty-five feet a mile.

Scotland itself was completely enveloped in glacial ice. Prevented by

the Scandinavian Glacier from moving eastward, the Scotch movement was

compelled to be westward and southward. On the southwest the ice-stream

reached the shores of Ireland, and became confluent with the glaciers

that enveloped that island, completely filling the Irish Sea.

There are so many controverted points respecting the glacial geology of

England, and they have such an important bearing upon the main question

of this volume, that a pretty full discussion of them will be necessary.

I have recently been over enough of the ground myself to become satisfied

of the general correctness of the views entertained by my late colleague,

the lamented Professor Henry Carvill Lewis, whose death in 1888 took

place before the publication of his most mature conclusions. But the

lines of investigation to which he gave so powerful an impulse have since

been followed out by an active body of scientific observers. To give the

statement of facts greater precision and authority, I have committed

the preparation of it to the Secretary of the Northwest of England

Boulder Committee, Percy F. Kendall, F. G. S., Lecturer on Geology at

the Yorkshire College, Leeds, and at the Stockport Technical School,

England.[BM]

[Footnote BM: Mr. Kendall's contribution extends to page 181.]

"All the characteristic evidences of the action of land-ice can be found

in the greatest perfection in many parts of England and Wales. Drumlins,

kames, _roches moutonnées_, far-travelled erratics, terminal moraines,

and perched blocks, all occur. There are, besides, in the wide-spread

deposits of boulder-clay which cover so many thousands of square miles on

the low grounds lying on either side of the Pennine chain, evidences of

the operation of ice-masses of a size far exceeding that of the grandest

of existing European glaciers. But, while the proofs of protracted

and severe glaciation are thus patent, there are, nevertheless, many

apparently anomalous circumstances which arrest the attention when the

whole country is surveyed. The glacial phenomena appear to be strictly

limited to the country lying to the northward of a line extending from

the Bristol Channel to the mouth of the Thames; and within the glaciated

area there are many extensive tracts of land devoid of 'drift' or other

indications of ice-action.

"By comparison with the phenomena displayed in the North American

continent, English glacial geology must seem puny and insignificant; but,

just as with the features of the 'Solid Geology,' we have compressed

within the narrow limits of our isles an epitome of the features which

across the Atlantic require a continent for their exposition. It has

resulted from this concentration that English geology requires a much

closer and more minute investigation. And the difficulty which has been

experienced by glacial geologists of dealing with an involved series of

facts has, in the absence of any clue leading to the co-ordination of a

vast series of more or less disconnected observations, resulted in the

adoption, to meet certain local anomalies, of explanations which were

very difficult if not impossible of reconciliation with facts observed

in adjacent areas. Thus, to account for shell-bearing drift extending up

to the water-shed on one side of a lofty range of hills, a submergence

of the land to a depth of 1,400 feet has been postulated; leaving for

independent explanation the fact, that the opposite slopes of the hills

and the low ground beyond were absolutely destitute of drift or of any

evidence of marine action.

"In the following pages I must adopt a somewhat dogmatic tone, in order

to confine myself within the limits of space which are imposed; and trust

rather to the cohesion and consistency of the explanations offered and

to a few pregnant facts than to the weighing and contrasting of rival

theories.

"The facts point conclusively to the action in the British Isles of

a series of glaciers radiating outward from the great hill chains or

clusters, and, as the refrigeration progressed, becoming confluent and

moving though in the same general direction, yet with less regard to the

minor inequalities of the ground. During these two stages many glaciers

must have debouched upon the sea-coast, with the consequent production of

icebergs, which floated off with loads of boulders and dispersed them in

the random fashion which is a necessary characteristic of transport by

floating ice.

"With a further accentuation of the cold conditions the discharge of

bergs from terminal fronts which advanced into the extremely shallow

seas surrounding the British shores would be quite inadequate to relieve

the great press of ice, and a further coalescence of separate elements

must have resulted. In the case of enclosed seas--as, for example, the

Irish Sea--the continued inthrust of glacier-ice would expel the water

completely; and the conjoined ice-masses would take a direction of flow

the resultant of the momentum and direction of the constituent elements.

In other cases--as, for example, in the North Sea--extraneous ice

approaching the shores might cause a deflection of the flow of the native

glaciers, even though the foreign ice might never actually reach the

shore.

"To such a system of confluent glaciers, and to the separate elements

out of which they grew, and into which, after the culmination, they were

resolved, I attribute the whole of the phenomena of the English and Welsh

drift. And only at one or two points upon the coast, and raised but

little above the sea-level, can I recognise any signs of marine action.

"_The Preglacial Level of the Land._--There is very little direct

evidence bearing upon this point. In Norfolk the famous forest bed, with

its associated deposits, stands at almost precisely the level which it

occupied in preglacial times. At Sewerby, near Flamborough Head, there

is an ancient beach and 'buried cliff' which the sea is now denuding of

its swathing of drift-deposits, and its level can be seen to be almost

absolutely coincident with the present beach. Mr. Lamplugh, whose

description of the 'Drifts of Flamborough Head,'[BN] constitutes one of

the gems of glacial literature, considers that there is clear evidence

that the land stood at this level for a long period. The beach is covered

by a rain-wash of small extent, and that in turn by an ancient deposit

of blown sand, while the lowest member of the drift series of Yorkshire

covers the whole. Mr. Lamplugh thinks that the blown sand may indicate

a slight elevation of the land; but the beach appears to me to be the

storm beach, and the reduction in the force of the waves such as would

result from the approach of an ice-front a few miles to the seaward would

probably produce the necessary conditions.

[Footnote BN: Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society, vol. xlvii.]

"Six miles to the northward of Flamborough, at Speeton, a bed of

estuarine silt containing the remains of mollusca in the position of life

occurs at an altitude of ninety feet above high-water mark. Mr. Lamplugh

inclines to the opinion that this bed is of earlier date than the 'buried

cliff'; he also admits the possibility that its superior altitude may be

due to a purely local upward bulging of the soft Lower Cretaceous clays

upon which the estuarine bed rests by the weight of the adjacent lofty

chalk escarpment.

"The evidence obtained from inland sections and borings in different

parts of England has been taken to indicate a greater altitude in

preglacial times. Thus, in Essex, deep-borings have revealed the

existence of deep drift-filled valleys, having their floors below

sea-level. The valley of the Mersey is a still better example. Numerous

borings have been made in the neighbourhood of Widnes and at other places

in the lower reaches of the river, making it clear that there is a

channel filled with drift and extending to 146 feet below mean sea-level.

This, with several other instances, has been taken to indicate a greater

altitude for the land in preglacial times, since a river could not

erode its channel to such a depth below sea-level. The argument appears

inconclusive for one principal reason: no mention is made of any river

gravels or other alluvium in the borings. Indeed, there is an explicit

statement that the deposits are all glacial, showing that the channel

must have been cleared out by ice. This, therefore, leaves open the

vital question, whether the deposits removed were marine or fluviatile.

It may be remarked that the great estuary of the Mersey has undoubtedly

been produced by a post-glacial (and probably post-Roman) movement of

depression.

"_The Preglacial Climate._--In all speculations regarding the cause

of the Glacial epoch, due account must be taken of the undoubted fact

that it came on with extreme slowness and departed with comparative

suddenness. In the east of England an almost perfect and uninterrupted

sequence of deposits is preserved, extending from the early part of the

Pliocene period down to the present day.

"These in descending order are:

"1. Post-glacial sands, gravels, etc.

"2. Glacial series.

"3. The 'Forest Bed' and associated marine deposits.

"4. Chillesford clay and sand.

"5. The many successive stages of the Red Crag. (The Norwich Crag is a

local variation of the upper part of the Red Crag.)

"6. The Coralline Crag.

"The fossils preserved in these deposits, apart from the physical

indications, exhibit the climatal changes which accompanied their

deposition. The Coralline Crag contains a fauna consisting mainly

of species which now range to the Mediterranean, many of them being

restricted to the warm southern waters. Associated with these are a few

boreal forms, but they are represented in general by few individuals.

Here and there in the deposits of this age far-travelled stones are to

be found, but they are always accounted great rarities.

"The Red Crag consists of an irregular assemblage of beaches and

sand-banks of widely different ages, but their sequence can be made out

with ease by a study of the fauna. In the oldest deposits, Mediterranean

species are very numerous, while the boreal forms are comparatively rare;

but in successive later deposits the proportions are very gradually

reversed, and from the overlying Chillesford series the Mediterranean

species are practically absent. The physical indications run _pari

passu_ with the paleontological, and in the newer beds of the Red Crag

far-travelled stones are common.

"In the Forest Bed series there is a marine band--the _Leda myalis_

bed--which contains an almost arctic assemblage of shells; while at about

the same horizon plant remains have been found, including such high

northern species as _Salix polaris_ and _Betula nana_.

"The glacial deposits do not, in my opinion, contain anywhere in England

or Wales a genuine intrinsic fauna, such shells as occur in the East

Anglian glacial deposits having been derived in part from a contemporary

sea-bed, and, for the rest, from the older formations, down perhaps to

the Coralline Crag. In the post-glacial deposits we have hardly any trace

of a survival of the boreal forms, and I consider that the whole marine

fauna of the North Sea was entirely obliterated at the culmination of the

Glacial epoch, and that the repeopling in post-glacial times proceeded

mainly from the English Channel, into which the northern forms never

penetrated.

"_The Great Glacial Centres._

"Where such complex interactions have to be described as were produced

by the conflicting glaciers of the British Isles it is difficult to

deal consecutively with the phenomena of any one area, but with short

digressions in explanation of special points it may be possible to

accomplish a clear presentation of the facts.

"_Wales._--The phenomena of South Wales are comparatively simple. Great

glaciers travelled due southward from the lofty Brecknock Beacons,

and left the characteristic _moutonnée_ appearance upon the rocky bed

over which they moved. The boulder-transport is in entire agreement

with the other indications, and there are no shells in the drift. The

facts awaiting explanation are the occurrence in the boulder-clays of

Glamorganshire, at altitudes up to four hundred feet, of flints, and of

igneous rocks somewhat resembling those of the Archæan series of the

Wrekin. At Clun, in Shropshire, a train of erratics (see map) has been

traced back to its source to the westward. On the west coast, in Cardigan

Bay, the boulders are all such as might have been derived from the

interior of Wales. At St. David's Peninsula, Pembrokeshire, striæ occur

coming in from the northwest, and, taken with the discovery of boulders

of northern rocks, may point to a southward extension of a great glacier

produced by confluent sheets that choked the Irish Sea. Information

is very scanty regarding large areas in mid-Wales, but such as can be

gathered seems to point to ice-shedding having taken place from a north

and south parting line. In North Wales, much admirable work has been done

which clearly indicates the neighbourhood of Great Arenig (Arenig Mawr)

as the radiant point for a great dispersal of blocks of volcanic rock of

a characteristic Welsh type.

"_Ireland._--A brief reference must be made to Ireland, as the ice which

took origin there played an important part in bringing about some strange

effects in English glaciation, which would be inexplicable without a

recognition of the causes in operation across the Irish Sea. Ireland

is a great basin, surrounded by an almost continuous girdle of hills.

The rainfall is excessive, and the snow-fall was probably more than

proportionately great; therefore we might expect that an ice-sheet of

very large dimensions would result from this combination of favouring

conditions. The Irish ice-sheet appears to have moved outward from about

the centre of the island, but the main flow was probably concentrated

through the gaps in the encircling mountains.

"_Galloway._--The great range of granite mountains in the southwestern

corner of Scotland seems to have given origin to an immense mass of ice

which moved in the main to the southward, and there are good grounds

for the belief that the whole ice-drainage of the area, even that which

gathered on the northern side of the water-shed, ultimately found its

way into the Irish Sea basin and came down coastwise and across the low

grounds of the Rinns of Galloway, being pushed down by the press of

Highland ice which entered the Firth of Clyde. It is a noteworthy fact

that marine shells occur in the drift in the course taken by the ice

coming on to the extremity of Galloway from the Clyde.

"_The Lake District._--A radial flow of ice took place down the valleys

from about the centre of the Cumbrian hill-plexus, but movement to the

eastward was at first forbidden by the great rampart of the Cross Fell

escarpment, which stretches like a wall along the eastern side of the

Vale of Eden.

"During the time when the Cumbrian glaciers had unobstructed access

to the Solway Frith, to the Irish Sea, and to Morecambe Bay, the

dispersal of boulders of characteristic local rocks would follow the

ordinary drainage-lines; but, as will be shown later, a state of affairs

supervened in the Irish Sea which resulted, in many cases, in a complete

reversal of the ice-flow.

"_The Pennine Chain_ was the source of glaciers of majestic dimensions

upon both its flanks in the region north of Skipton, but to the southward

of that breach in the chain (see map) no evidence is obtainable of any

local glaciers.

"_The Confluent Glaciers._

"With the growth of ice-caps upon the great centres a condition of

affairs was brought about in the Irish Sea productive of results which

will readily be foreseen. The enormous volumes of ice poured into

the shallow sea from north, south, east, and west, resulted in such

a congestion as to necessitate the initiation of some new systems of

drainage.

"_The Irish Sea Glacier._--The ice from Galloway, Cumbria, and Ireland

became confluent, forming what the late Professor Carvill Lewis termed

'the Irish Sea Glacier,' and took a direction to the southward. Here it

came in diametrical conflict with the northward-flowing element of the

Welsh sheet, which it arrested and mastered; and the Irish Sea Glacier

bifurcated, probably close upon the precipitous Welsh coast to the

eastward of the Little Orme's Head, and the two branches flowed coastwise

to eastward and westward, keeping near the shore-line.

"The westerly branch swept round close to the coast in a southwesterly

direction, and completely overrode Anglesea; striating the rock-surfaces

from northeast to southwest (see map), and strewing the country with

its bottom-moraine, containing characteristic northern rocks, such

as the Galloway granites, the lavas and granites of the central and

western portions of the Lake District, and fragments of shells derived

from shell-banks in the Irish Sea. One episode of this phase of the

ice-movement was the invasion of the first line of hills between the

Menai Straits and Snowdon. The gravels and sands of Fridd-bryn-mawr,

Moel Tryfaen, and Moel-y-Cilgwyn, are the coarser washings of the

bottom-moraine, and consequently contain such rock-fragments and shells

as characterise it. From Moel-y-Cilgwyn southward, evidence is lacking

regarding the course taken by the glacier, but it probably passed over or

between the Rivals Mountains (Yr Eifl), and down Cardigan Bay at some

distance from the coast in confluence with the ice from mid-Wales; and,

as I have suggested, may have passed over St. David's Head.

"Returning now towards the head of the glacier we may follow with

advantage its left bank downward. The ice-flow on the Cumberland coast

appears to have resembled very much that in North Wales. A great press of

ice from the northward (Galloway) seems to have had a powerful 'easting'

imparted to it by the conjoint influences of the thrust of the Irish ice

and the inflow of ice from the Clyde. Whatever may have been the cause,

the effect is clear: about Ravenglass cleavage took place, and a flow to

northward and to southward, each bending easterly. By far the larger mass

took a southerly course and bent round Black Combe, over Walney, and a

strip of the mainland about Barrow in Furness, and out into and across

Morecambe Bay. Its limits are marked in the field by the occurrence of

the same rocks which characterise it in Anglesea, viz., the granites of

Galloway and of west and central Cumbria.

"The continued thrust shouldered in the glacier upon the mainland of

Lancashire, but the precise point of emergence has not yet been traced,

though it cannot be more than a few miles from the position indicated on

the map. I should here remark, that all along the boundaries the Irish

Sea Glacier was confluent with local ice, except, probably, in that part

of the Pennine chain to the southward of Skipton. Down to Skipton there

was a great mass of Pennine ice which was compelled to take an almost

due southerly course, and thus to run directly athwart the direction of

the main hills and valleys. A sharp easterly inflection of the Irish Sea

Glacier carried it up the valley of the Ribble, and thence, under the

shoulder of Pendle, to Burnley, where Scottish granites are found in the

boulder-clay.

"On the summit of the Pennine water-shed, at Heald Moor, near Todmorden

(1,419 feet), boulder-clay has been found containing erratics belonging

to this dispersion; while in the gorge of the Yorkshire Calder, which

flows along the eastern side of the same hill, not a vestige of such a

deposit is to be found, saving a few erratic pebbles at a distance of

eight or ten miles, which were probably carried down by flood-wash from

the edge of the ice.

"From this point the limits of the ice may be traced along the flanks of

the Pennine chain at an average altitude of about 1,100 feet.

"At one place the erratics can be traced to a position which would

indicate the formation of an extra-morainic lake having its head at a

col about 1,000 feet above sea-level, separating it from the valley of

an eastward-flowing stream, the Wye, about twelve miles down which a few

granite blocks have been found. Other extra-morainic lakes must have

been formed, but very little information has been collected regarding

them. The Irish Sea Glacier can be shown to have spread across the whole

country to the westward of the line I have traced, and beyond the estuary

of the Dee.

"I may now follow its boundaries on the Welsh coast, and pursue the line

to the final melting-place of the glacier. From the Little Orme's Head

the line of confluence with the native ice is pretty clearly defined. It

runs in, perhaps, half a mile from the shore, until the broad low tract

of the Vale of Clwyd is reached. Here the northern ice obtained a more

complete mastery, and pushed in even as far as Denbigh. This extreme

limit was probably attained as a mere temporary episode. Horizontal striæ

on a vertical face of limestone on the crags dominating the mouth of the

vale on the eastern side attest beyond dispute the action of a mass of

land-ice moving in from the north.

"I may here remark, that in this district the deposits furnish a very

complete record of the events of the Glacial period. In the cliffs on

the eastern side of the Little Orme's Head, and at several other points

along the coast towards the east, a sequence may be observed as follows:

"4. Boulder-clay with northern erratics and shells.

"3. Sands and gravels with northern erratics and shells.

"2. Boulder-clay with northern erratics and shells.

"1. Boulder-clay with Welsh erratics and no shells.

"A similar succession is to be seen in the Vale of Clwyd. The

interpretation is clear: In the early stages of glaciation the Welsh

ice spread without hindrance to, and laid down, bed No. 1; then the

northern ice came down, bringing its typical erratics and the scourings

of the sea-bottom, and laid down the variable series of clays, sands, and

gravels which constitute Nos. 2, 3, and 4 of the section.

[Illustration: Fig. 42.--The Cefn Cave, in Vale of Clwyd. (Trimmer.) _a_,

Entrance; _b_, mud with pebbles and wood covered with stalagmite; _c_,

mud, bones, and angular fragments of limestone; _d_, sand and silt, with

fragments of marine shells; _e_, fissure; _f_, northern drift; _g_, cave

cleared of mud; _h_, river Elwy, 100 feet below; _i_, limestone rock.]

"In the Vale of Clwyd an additional interest is imparted to the study of

the drift from the circumstance that the remains of man have been found

in deposits in caves sealed with drift-beds. The best example is the Cae

Gwyn caves, in which flint implements and the bones and teeth of various

extinct animals were found embedded in 'cave-earth' which was overlaid

by bedded deposits of shell-bearing drift, with erratics of the northern

type.

"It has been supposed that the drift-deposits were marine accumulations;

but it is inconceivable that the cave could ever have been subjected to

wave-action without the complete scouring out of its contents.

"To resume the delineation of the limits of the great Irish Sea Glacier:

From the Vale of Clwyd the boundary runs along the range of hills

parallel to the estuary of the Dee at an altitude of about nine hundred

feet. As it is traced to the southeast it gradually rises, until at

Frondeg, a few miles to the northward of the embouchure of the Yale of

Llangollen, it is at a height of 1,450 feet above sea-level. Thence it

falls to 1,150 feet at Gloppa, three miles to the westward of Oswestry,

and this is the most southerly point to which it has been definitely

traced on the Welsh border, though scattered boulders of northern rocks

are known to occur at Church Stretton.

"Along the line from the Vale of Clwyd to Oswestry the boundary is

marked by a very striking series of moraine-mounds. They occur on the

extreme summits of lofty hills in a country generally almost driftless,

and their appearance is so unusual that one--Moel-y-crio--at least

has been mistaken for an artificial tumulus. The limitation of the

dispersal of northern erratics by these mounds is very clear and

sharp; and Mackintosh, in describing those at Frondeg, remarked that,

while no northern rocks extended to the westward of them, so no Welsh

erratics could be found to cross the line to the eastward. There are

Welsh erratics in the low grounds of Cheshire and Shropshire, but their

distribution is sporadic, and will be explained in a subsequent section.

"Having thus followed around the edges of this glacier, it remains to

describe its termination. It is clear that the ice must have forced its

way over the low water-shed between the respective basins of the Dee and

the Severn. So soon as this ridge (less than 500 feet above the sea)

is crossed, we find the deposits laid down by the glacier change their

character, and sands and gravels attain a great predominance.[BO] Near

Bridgenorth, and, at other places, hills composed of such materials

attain an altitude of 200 feet. From Shrewsbury _via_ Burton, and thence,

in a semicircular sweep, through Bridgenorth and Enville, there is an

immense concentration of boulders and pebbles, such as to justify the

designation of a terminal moraine. To the southward, down the valley

of the Severn, existing information points to the occurrence merely of

such scattered pebbles as might have been carried down by floods. In the

district lying outside this moraine there is a most interesting series of

glacial deposits and of boulders of an entirely different character. (See

map.)

[Footnote BO: Mackintosh, Q. J. G. S.]

"From the neighbourhood of Lichfield, through some of the suburbs of

Birmingham, and over Frankley Hill and the Lickey Hills to Bromsgrove,

there is a great accumulation of Welsh erratics, from the neighbourhood,

probably, of Arenig Mawr.

"The late Professor Carvill Lewis suggested that these Arenig rocks

might have been derived from some adjacent outcrop of Palæozoic rocks--a

suggestion having its justification in the discoveries that had been made

of Cumbrian rocks in the Midlands. To test the matter, an excavation was

made at a point selected on Frankley Hill, and a genuine boulder-clay

was found, containing erratics of the same type as those found upon the

surface.

"The explanation has since been offered that this boulder-clay was a

marine deposit laid down during a period of submerge nee.[BP] Apart

from the difficulty that the boulder-clay displays none of the ordinary

characteristics of a marine deposition, but possesses a structure,

or rather absence of structure, in many respects quite inconsistent

with such an origin, and contains no shells or other remains of marine

creatures, it must be pointed out that no theory of marine notation

will explain the distribution of the erratics, and especially their

concentration in such numbers at a station sixty or seventy miles from

their source.

[Footnote BP: Proceedings of the Birmingham Philosophical Society, vol.

vi, Part I, p. 181.]

"Upon the land-ice hypothesis this difficulty disappears. During the

early stages of the Glacial period the Welsh ice had the whole of

the Severn Valley at its mercy, and a great glacier was thrust down

from Arenig, or some other point in central Wales, having an _initial

direction_, broadly speaking, from west to east. This glacier extended

across the valley of the Severn, sweeping past the Wrekin, whence it

carried blocks of the very characteristic rocks to be lodged as boulders

near Lichfield; and it probably formed its terminal moraine along the

line indicated. (See lozenge-shaped marks on the map.) As the ice in

the north gathered volume it produced the great Irish Sea Glacier,

which pressed inland and down the Vale of Severn in the manner I have

described, and brushed the relatively small Welsh stream out of its path,

and laid down its own terminal moraine in the space between the Welsh

border and the Lickey Hills. It seems probable that the Welsh stream

came mainly down the Vale of Llangollen, and thence to the Lickey Hills.

Boulders of Welsh rocks occur in the intervening tract by ones and twos,

with occasional large clusters, the preservation of any more connected

trail being rendered impossible by the great discharge of water from

the front of the Irish Sea Glacier, and the distributing action of the

glacier itself.

"Within the area in England and Wales covered by the Irish Sea Glacier

all the phenomena point to the action of land-ice, with the inevitable

concomitants of subglacial streams, extra-morainic lakes, etc. There is

nothing to suggest marine conditions in any form except the occurrence

of shells or shell fragments; and these present so many features of

association, condition, and position inconsistent with, what we should

be led to expect from a study of recent marine life, that conchologists

are unanimous in declaring that not one single group of them is on the

site whereon the shells lived. It is a most significant fact--one out of

a hundred which could be cited did space permit--that in the ten thousand

square miles of, as it is supposed, recently elevated sea-bottom, not a

single example of a bivalve shell with its valves in apposition has ever

been found! Nor has a boulder or other stone been found encrusted with

those ubiquitous marine parasites, the barnacles.

"The evidences of the action of land-ice within the area are everywhere

apparent in the constancy of direction of-- (1.) Striæ upon rock

surfaces. (2.) The terminal curvature of rocks. (3.) The 'pull-over' of

soft rocks. (4.) The transportal of local boulders. (5.) The orientation

of the long axes of large boulders. (6.) The false bedding of sands

and gravels. (7.) The elongation of drift-hills. (8.) The relations

of 'crag and tail.' There is a similar general constancy, too, in the

directions of the striæ upon large boulders. Upon the under side they run

longitudinally from southeast (or thereabouts) to northwest, while upon

the upper surface they originate at the opposite end, showing that the

scratches on the under side were produced by the stone being dragged from

northwest to southeast, while those on the top were the product of the

passage of stone-laden ice over it in the same direction.

"Such an agreement cannot be fortuitous, but must be attributed to the

operation of some agent acting in close parallelism over the whole

area. To attribute such regularity to the action of marine currents is

to ignore the most elementary principles of marine hydrology. Icebergs

must, in the nature of things, be the most erratic of all agents, for

the direction of drift is determined--among other varying factors--by

the draught of the berg. A mass of small draught will be carried by

surface currents, while one of greater depth will be brought within the

influence of under-currents; and hence it not infrequently happens that

while floe-ice is drifting, say, to the southeast, giant bergs will go

crashing through it to the northwest. There are tidal influences also to

be reckoned with, and it is matter of common knowledge that flotsam and

jetsam travel back and forth, as they are alternately affected by ebb and

flood tide.

"Bearing these facts in mind, it is surely too much to expect that

marine ice should transport boulders (how it picked up many of them also

requires explanation) with such unfailing regularity that it can be said

without challenge,[BQ] 'boulders in this district [South Lancashire and

Cheshire] never occur to the north or west of the parent rock.' The

same rule applies without a single authentic exception to the whole

area covered by the eastern branch of the Irish Sea Glacier; and hence

it comes about that not a single boulder of Welsh rock has ever been

recorded from Lancashire.

[Footnote BQ: Brit. Assoc. Report, 1890, p. 343.]

"_The Solway Glacier._--The pressure which forced much of the Irish Sea

ice against the Cumbrian coast-line caused, as has been described, a

cleavage of the flow near Ravenglass, and, having followed the southerly

branch to its termination in the midlands, the remaining moiety demands

attention.

"The 'easting' motion carried it up the Solway Frith, its right flank

spreading over the low plain of northern Cumberland, which it strewed

with boulders of the well-known 'syenite' (granophyre) of Buttermere.

When this ice reached the foot of the Cross Fell escarpment, it suffered

a second bifurcation, one branch pushing to the eastward up the valley

of the Irthing and over into Tyneside, and the other turning nearly due

southward and forcing its way up the broad Vale of Eden.

"Under the pressure of an enormous head of ice, this stream rose from

sea-level, turned back or incorporated the native Cumbrian Glacier

which stood in its path, and, having arrived almost at the water-shed

between the northern and the southern drainage, it swept round to the

eastward and crossed over the Pennine water-shed; not, however, by the

lowest pass, which is only some 1,400 feet above sea-level, but by the

higher pass of Stainmoor, at altitudes ranging from 1,800 to 2,000

feet. The lower part of the course of this ice-flow is sufficiently

well characterised by boulders of the granite of the neighbourhood of

Dalbeattie in Galloway; but on its way up the Vale of Eden it gathered

several very remarkable rocks and posted them as way-stones to mark its

course. One of these rocks, the Permian Brockram, occurs nowhere _in

situ_ at altitudes exceeding 700 feet, yet in the course of its short

transit it was lifted about a thousand feet above its source. The Shap

granite (see radiant point on map) is on the northern side of the east

and west water-sheds of the Lake District, and reaches its extreme

elevation, (1,656 feet) on Wasdale Pike; yet boulders of it were carried

over Stainmoor, at an altitude of 1,800 feet literally by tens of

thousands.

"This Stainmoor Glacier passed directly over the Pennine chain, past the

mouths of several valleys, and into Teesdale, which it descended and

spread out in the low grounds beyond. Pursuing its easterly course, it

abutted upon the lofty Cleveland Hills and separated into two streams,

one of which went straight out to sea at Hartlepool, while the other

turned to the southward and flowed down the Vale of York, being augmented

on its way by tributary glaciers coming down Wensleydale. The final

melting seems to have taken place somewhere a little to the southward

of York; but boulders of Shap granite by which its extension is

characterised have been found as far to the southward as Royston, near

Barnsley.

"The other branch of the Solway Glacier--that which travelled due

eastward--passed up the valley of the Irthing, and over into that of the

Tyne, and out to sea at Tynemouth. It carried the Scottish granites with

it, and tributary masses joined on either hand, bringing characteristic

boulders with them.

"The fate of those elements of the Solway Frith Glacier which reached

the sea is not left entirely to conjecture. The striated surfaces near

the coast of Northumberland indicate a coastwise flow of ice from the

northward--probably from the Frith of Forth--and the glaciers coming out

from the Tyne and Tees were deflected to the southward.

"There is conclusive evidence that this ice rasped the cliffs of the

Yorkshire coast and pressed up into some of the valleys. Where it passed

the mouth of the Tees near Whitby it must have had a height of at least

800 feet, but farther down the coast it diminished in thickness. It

nowhere extended inland more than a mile or two, and for the most part

kept strictly to the coast-line. Along the whole coast are scattered

erratics derived from Galloway and the places lying in the paths of the

glaciers. In many places the cliffs exhibit signs of rough usage, the

rocks being crumpled and distorted by the violent impact of the ice. At

Filey Brigg a well-scratched surface has been discovered, the striation

being from a few degrees east of north.

"At Speeton the evidence of ice-sheet or glacier-work is of the most

striking character. On the top of the cliffs of Cretaceous strata a line

of moraine-hills has been laid down, extending in wonderful perfection

for a distance of six miles. They consist of a mixture of sand,

gravel, and a species of clay-rubble, with occasional masses of true

boulder-clay, the whole showing the arched bedding so characteristic

of such accumulations. At the northerly end the moraine keeps close to

the edge of the chalk cliffs, which are there 400 feet high, and the

hills are frequently displayed in section; but as the elevation of the

cliffs declines they fall back from the edge of the cliffs and run quite

across the headland of Flamborough, and are again exposed in section in

Bridlington Bay. One remarkable and significant fact is pointed out,

namely, that behind this moraine, within half a mile and at a lower

level, the country is almost absolutely devoid of any drift whatever.

[Illustration: Fig. 43.--Moraine between Speeton and Flamborough

(Lamplugh).]

"The interpretation of these phenomena is as follows: When the

valley-glaciers reached the sea they suffered the deflection which has

been mentioned, partly as the result of the interference of ice from

the east of Scotland, but also influenced directly by the cause which

operated upon the Scottish ice and gave direction to it--that is, the

impact of a great glacier from Scandinavia, which almost filled the North

Sea, and turned in the eastward-flowing ice upon the British coast.

"It is easy to see how this pressure must have forced the glacier-ice

against the Yorkshire coast, but vertical chalk cliffs 400 feet in

height are not readily surmounted by ice of any thickness, however

great, and so it coasted along and discharged its lateral moraine upon

the cliff-tops. As the cliffs diminished in height we find the moraine

farther inland, and, as I have pointed out, the ice completely overrode

Flamborough Head. Amongst the boulders at Flamborough are many of Shap

granite, a few Galloway granites, a profusion of Carboniferous rocks,

brought by the Tyne branch of the Sol way Glacier as well as by that of

Stainmoor, and, besides many torn from the cliffs of Yorkshire, a few

examples of unquestionable Scandinavian rocks, such as the well-known

_Rhomben-porphyr_. It is important to note that about ten to twenty

miles from the Yorkshire coast there is a tract of sea-bottom called

by trawlers 'the rough ground,' in allusion to the fact that it is

strewn with large boulders, amongst which are many of Shap granite. This

probably represents a moraine of the Teesdale Glacier, laid down at a

time when the Scandinavian Glacier was not at its greatest development.

"On the south side of Flamborough Head the 'buried cliff' previously

alluded to occurs. The configuration of the country shows--and the

conclusion is established by numerous deep-borings--that the preglacial

coast-line takes a great sweep inland from here, and that the plain of

Holderness is the result of the banking-up of an immense thickness of

glacial _débris_. In the whole country reviewed, from Tynemouth to

Bridlington, wherever the ice came on to the land from the seaward, it

brought in shells and fragmentary patches of the sea-bottom involved in

its ground moraine. Space does not permit of a detailed description of

the several members of the Yorkshire Drift, and I pass on to deal in a

general way with the glacial phenomena of the eastern side of England.

"_The East Anglian Glacier._--The influence of the Scandinavian ice is

clearly seen in the fact that the entire ice-movement down the east

coast south of Bridlington was all from the _seaward_. Clays, sands, and

gravels, the products of a continuous mass of land-ice coming from the

northeast are spread over the whole country, from the Trent to the high

grounds on the north of London overlooking the Thames.

"The line of extreme extension of these drift-deposits runs from Finchley

(near London), in the south across Hertfordshire, through Cambridgeshire,

with outlying patches at Gogmagog and near Buckingham, and northwestward

over a large portion of Leicestershire into the upper waters of the

Trent, embracing the elevated region of Palæozoic rocks at Charnwood

Forest, near Leicester.

"Reserving the consideration of the very involved questions connected

with the drifts of the upper part of the Trent Valley, I may pass

on to join the phenomena of the southeastern counties with those at

Flamborough Head. From Nottinghamshire the limits of the drift of the

East Anglian Glacier seem to run in a direction nearly due west to east,

for the great oolitic escarpment upon which Lincoln Cathedral is built

is absolutely driftless to the northward of the breach about Sleaford.

However, along the western flank of the oolitic range true boulder-clay

occurs, bordering and doubtless underlying the great fen-tract of

mid-Lincolnshire; and the great Lincolnshire Wolds appear to have been

completely whelmed beneath the ice.

"The most remarkable of the deposits in this area is the Great Chalky

Boulder-Clay, which consists of clay containing much ground-up chalk,

and literally packed with well-striated boulders of chalk of all sizes,

from minute pebbles up to blocks a foot or more in diameter. Associated

with them are boulders of various foreign rocks, and many flints in a

remarkably fresh condition, and still retaining the characteristic white

coat, except where partially removed by glacial attrition.

"One of the perplexing features of the glacial phenomena in the eastern

counties of England is the extension of true chalky boulder-clay to the

north London heights at Finchley and elsewhere; for only the faintest

traces are to be found in the gravel deposits of the Thames Valley of any

wash from such a deposit, or from a glacier carrying such materials.

"It has been suggested that the deposit may have been laid down in an

extra-morainic lake, or in an extension of the North. Sea, but these

suggestions leave the difficulty just where it was. If a lake or sea

could exist without shores, a glacier-stream might equally dispense with

banks. Within the area of glaciation, defined above, abundant evidence

of the action of land-ice is obtainable, though striated surfaces are

extremely rare--a fact attributable to the softness of the chalk and

clays which occupy almost the whole area. Well-striated surfaces are

found on the harder rocks, as, for example, on the oolitic limestone at

Dunston, near Lincoln.

"Mr. Skertchly has remarked that the proofs of the action of land-ice

are irrefragable. The Great Chalky Boulder-Clay covers an area of

3,000 square miles, and attains an altitude of 500 feet above the

sea-level, thus bespeaking, if the product of icebergs, 'an extensive

gathering-ground of chalk, having an elevation of more than 500 feet.

But where is it? Certainly not in Western Europe, for the chalk does not

attain so great an elevation except in a few isolated spots.'[BR]

[Footnote BR: Geikie's Great Ice Age, p. 360.]

[Illustration: Fig. 44.--Diagram-section near Cromer (Woodward). 6.

Gravel and sand (Middle Glacial) resting on contorted drift (loam, sand,

and marl, with large included boulders of chalk); 5. Cromer till: 4.

Laminated clay and sands (Leda myalis bed); 3. Fresh-water loams and

sands: 3_a_. Black fresh-water bed of Runton (upper fresh-water bed); 2.

Forest bed--laminated clays and sands, with roots and _débris_ of wood,

bones of mammalia, estuarine mollusca, etc., the upper part in places

penetrated by rootlets (rootlet bed); 2_a_. Weybourn crag; 1. Chalk with

flints; * Large included boulder of chalk.]

"It has been further pointed out by Mr. Skertchly, that the condition of

the flints in this deposit furnishes strong evidence that they could not

have been carried by floating ice nor upon a glacier, for, in either of

the latter events, there must have been some exposure to the weather,

which, as he remarks, would have rendered them worthless to the makers of

gun-flints, whereas they are now regularly collected for their use.

"The way in which the boulder-clay is related to the rocks upon which

it rests is a conclusive condemnation of any theory of floating ice;

for example, where it rests upon Oxford Clay, it contains the fossils

characteristic of that formation, as it is largely made up of the clay

itself. The exceptions to this rule are as suggestive as those cases

which conform to it. Each outcrop yields material to the boulder-clay to

the south westward, showing a pull-over from the northeast.

"One of the most remarkable features of the drift of this part of

England is the inclusion of gigantic masses of rock transported for

a short distance from their native outcrop, very often with so small

a disturbance that they have been mapped as _in situ_. Examples of

chalk-masses 800 feet in length, and of considerable breadth and

thickness, have been observed in the cliffs near Cromer, in Norfolk, but

they are by no means restricted to situations near the coast. One example

is mentioned in which quarrying operations had been carried on for some

years before any suspicion was aroused that it was merely an erratic.

The huge boulders were probably dislodged from the parent rock by the

thrust of a great glacier, which first crumbled the beds, then sheared

off a prominent fold and carried it along. This explanation we owe to Mr.

Clement Reid.[BS] The drift-deposits of this region frequently contain

shells, but they rarely constitute what may be termed a consistent fauna,

usually showing such an association as could only be found where some

agent had been at work gathering together shells of different habitats

and geological age.

[Footnote BS: See Geology of the Country around Cromer, and Geology of

Holderness, Memoirs of Geological Survey of England and Wales.]

[Illustration: Fig. 45.--Section at right angles to the cliff through

the westerly chalk bluff at Trimingham, Norfolk, showing the manner in

which chalk masses are incorporated into the till (Clement Reid). Scale,

250 fret to an inch. A. Level of low-water spring-tides; B. Chalk, with

sandy bed at *; C. Forest-bed series, etc., seen in the cliffs a few

yards north and south of this point; D. Cromer till, stiff lead-colored

boulder-clay; E. Fine, chalky sands, much false-bedded; F. Contorted

drift, brown bouldery-clay with marked bedding- or fluxion-structure; G.

The bed, above the white line were seen and measured by more snow and

measured by Mr. Reid; * Chalk seen _in situ_ on beach.

"If the ice-sheet, instead of flowing over the beds, happens to plough

into them or abut against them, it would bend up a boss of chalk, as at

Beeston. A more extensive disturbance, like that at Trimingham drives

before it a long ridge of the bads, and nips up the chalk, till, like

a cloth creased by the sliding of a heavy book, it is folded into an

inverted anticlinal. A slight increase of pressure, and the third stage

is reached--the top of the anticlinal being entirely sheared off, the

chalk boulder driven up an incline, and forced into the overlying

boulder-clays." (Clement Reid.)]

"Attempts have been made to correlate the deposits over the whole area,

but with very indifferent success. A consideration of the consequences

of the invasion of the country by an ice-stream from the northeast will

prepare us for any conceivable complication of the deposits.

"The main movement was against the drainage of the country, so that

the ice-front must have been frequently in water. There would be

aqueous deposition and erosion; the kneading up of morainic matter into

ground-moraine; irregularities of distribution and deposition due to ice

floating in an extra-morainic lake; flood-washes at different points of

overflow; and other confusing causes, which make it rather matter for

surprise that any order whatever is traceable.

"I now turn to the valley of the Trent. We find that it occupies such a

position that it would be exposed, successively or simultaneously, to

the action of ice-streams of most diverse origin. I have shown that the

area to the westward of Lichfield was invaded at one period by a Welsh

glacier, and at a subsequent one by the Irish Sea Glacier, and both of

these streams entered the valley of the Trent or some of its affluents.

From the eastward, again, the great North Sea Glacier encroached in like

manner, carrying the Great Chalky Boulder-Clay even into the drainage

area of the westward-flowing rivers near Coventry.

"The glacial geology of the Trent Valley from Burton to Nottingham has

been ably dealt with by Mr. R. M. Deeley,[BT] who recognises a succession

which may be generalised as follows: (1.) A lower series containing rocks

derived from the Pennine chain; (2.) A middle series containing rocks

from the eastward (chalky boulder-clay, etc.); and (3.) An upper series

with Pennine rocks. Mr. Deeley thinks the Pennine _débris_ may have

been brought by glaciers flowing down the valleys of the Dove, the Wye,

and the Derwent; but, while recognising the importance of the testimony

adduced, especially that of the boulders, I am compelled to reserve

judgment upon this point until something like moraines or other evidences

of local glaciers can be shown in those valleys. In their upper parts

there is not a sign of glaciation. Some of the deposits described must

have been laid down by land-ice; while the conformation of the country

shows that during some stages of glaciation a lake must have existed

into which the different elements of the converging glaciers must have

projected. This condition will account for the remarkable commingling of

boulders observed in some of the deposits. Welsh, Cumbrian, and Scottish

rocks occur in the western portion of the Trent Valley. The overflow of

the extra-morainic lake would find its way into the valleys of the Avon

and Severn, and may be taken to account for the abundance of flints in

some of the gravels.

[Footnote BT: Quarterly Journal Geological Society, vol. xlii, p. 437.]

"_The Isle of Man._--This little island in mid-seas constituted in the

early stages of the Glacial epoch an independent centre of glaciation,

and from some of its valleys ice-streams undoubtedly descended to the

sea; but with the growth of the great Irish Sea Glacier the native ice

was merged in the invading mass, and at the climax of the period the

whole island was completely buried, even to its highest peak (Snae Fell,

2,054 feet), beneath the ice. The effects of this general glaciation

are clearly seen in the mantle of unstratified drift material which

overspread the hills; in the _moutonnée_ appearance of the entire

island; and in the transport of boulders of local rocks. The striations

upon rock surfaces show a constancy of direction in agreement with the

boulder-transport which can be ascribed to no other agency than a great

continuous sheet of such dimensions as to ignore minor hills and valleys.

"The disposition of the striæ is equally conclusive, for we find that on

a stepped escarpment of limestone both the horizontal and the vertical

faces are striated continuously and obliquely from the one on to the

other, showing that the ice had a power of accommodating itself to the

surface over which it passed that could not be displayed by floating ice.

There is a remarkable fact concerning the distribution of boulders on

this island which would strike the most superficial observers, namely,

that foreign rocks are confined to the low grounds. It might be argued

that the local ice always retained its individuality, and so kept the

foreign ice with its characteristic boulders at bay. But, apart from

the _a priori_ improbability of so small a hill-cluster achieving what

the Lake District could not accomplish, the fact that Snae Fell, an

isolated _conical_ hill, is swathed in drift from top to bottom, is

quite conclusive that the foreign ice must have got in. Why, then, did

it carry no stones with it? The following suggestion I make not without

misgivings, though there are many facts to which I might appeal that seem

strongly corroborative:

"The hilly axis of the island runs in a general northeast and southwest

direction, and it rises from a great expanse of drift in the north with

singular abruptness, some of the hills being almost inaccessible to a

direct approach without actual climbing. I imagine that the ice which

bore down upon the northern end of the island was, so far as its lower

strata were concerned, unable to ascend so steep an acclivity, and was

cleft, and flowed to right and left. The upper ice, being of ice-sheet

origin, would be relatively clean, and this flowing straight over the

top of the obstruction would glaciate the country with such material as

was lying loose upon the ground or could be dislodged by mere pressure.

It would appear from published descriptions that the Isle of Arran

offers the same problem, and I would suggest the application of the same

solution to it.

"Marine shells occur in the Manx drift, but only in such situations

as were reached by the ice-laden with foreign stones. They present

similar features of association of shells of different habitat, and

perhaps of geological age, to those already referred to as being common

characteristics of the shell-faunas of the drift of the mainland. Four

extinct species of mollusca have been recognised by me in the Manx drift.

"The Manx drift is of great interest as showing, perhaps better than any

locality yet studied, those features of the distribution of boulders of

native rocks which attest so clearly the exclusive action of land-ice.

There are in the island many highly characteristic igneous rocks, and I

have found that boulders of these rocks never occur to the northward of

the parent mass, and very rarely in any direction except to the southwest.

"Cumming observed in regard to one rock, the Foxdale granite, that

whereas the highest point at which it occurs _in situ_ was 657 feet

above sea-level, boulders of it occurred in profusion within 200 feet of

the summit of South Barrule (1,585 feet), a hill two miles only, in a

southwesterly direction, from the granite outcrop.

"They also occur on the summit of Cronk-na-Irrey-Lhaa, 1,449 feet above

sea-level. The vertical uplift has been 728 and 792 feet respectively.

"In the low grounds of the north of the island a finely developed

terminal moraine extends in a great sweep so as to obstruct the drainage

and convert thousands of acres of land into lake and morass, which is

only now yielding to artificial drainage. Many fine examples of drumlin

and esker mounds occur at low levels in different parts of the island;

and it was remarked nearly fifty years ago by Cumming, that their long

axes were parallel to the direction of ice-movement indicated by the

striated surfaces and the transport of boulders.

"The foreign boulders are mainly from the granite mountains of Galloway,

but there are many flints, presumably from Antrim, a very small number

of Lake District rocks, and a remarkable rock containing the excessively

rare variety of hornblende, Riebeckite. This has now been identified with

a rock on Ailsa Crag, a tiny islet in the Frith of Clyde; and a Manx

geologist, the Rev. S. N. Harrison, has discovered a single boulder of

the highly characteristic pitchstone of Corriegills, in the Isle of Arran.

"_The So-called Great Submergence._

"It may be convenient to adduce some additional facts which render the

theory of a great submergence of the country south of the Cheviots

untenable.

"The sole evidence upon which it rests is the occurrence of shells,

mostly in an extremely fragmentary condition, in deposits occurring at

various levels up to about 1,400 feet above sea-level: A little space may

profitably be devoted to a criticism of this evidence.

"_Moel Tryfaen_ ('The Hill of the Three Rocks').--This celebrated

locality is on the first rise of the ground between the Menai Straits and

the congeries of hills constituting 'Snowdonia'; and when we look to the

northward from the top of the hill (1,350 feet) we see the ground rising

from the straits in a series of gentle undulations whose smooth contours

would be found from a walk across the country to be due to the thick

mask of glacial deposits which obliterates the harsher features of the

solid rocks.

"The deposits on Moel Tryfaen are exposed in a slate-quarry on the

northern aspect of the hill near the summit, and consist of two wedges

of structureless boulder-clay, each thinning towards the top of the

hill. The lower mass of clay, wherever it rests upon the rock, contains

streaks and irregular patches of eccentric form, of sharp, perfectly

angular fragments of slate; and the underlying rock may be seen to be

crushed and broken, its cleavage-laminæ being thrust over from northwest

to southeast--that is, _up-hill_. The famous 'shell-bed' is a thick

series of sands and gravels interosculated with the clays on the slope of

the hill, but occupying the entire section above the slate towards the

top. The bedding shows unmistakable signs of the action of water, both

regular stratification and false bedding being well displayed. The stones

occurring in the clays are mainly if not entirely Welsh, including some

from the interior of the country, and they are not infrequently of large

size--two or three tons' weight--and well scratched.

"The stones found in the sands and gravels include a great majority of

local rocks, but besides these there have been recorded the following:

Rock. Source. Highest Minimum

point uplift

_in situ_. in feet.

Granite Eskdale, Cumberland 1,286 64

Granite Criffel, Galloway ..... ...

Flint Antrim (?) 1,000 350

To these I can add:

Granophyre Buttermere, Cumberland ..... ...

Eurite [BU] Ailsa Craig, Frith of Clyde 1,097 253

[Footnote BU: The altitude at which this rock occurs on Ailsa Craig

has not been announced, so 1 have put it as the extreme height of the

island.]

"The shells in the Moel Tryfaen deposit have been fully described, so far

as the enumeration of species and relative frequency are concerned, but

little has been said as to their absolute abundance and their condition.

The shells are extremely rare, and daring a recent visit a party of five

persons, in an assiduous search of about two hours, succeeded in finding

_five whole shells_ and about two ounces of fragments. The opportunities

for collecting are as good as could be desired. The sections exposed have

an aggregate length of about a quarter of a mile, with a height varying

from ten to twenty feet of the shelly portion; and besides this there are

immense spoil-banks, upon whose rain-washed slopes fossil-collecting can

be carried on under the most favorable conditions.

"I would here remark, that the occurrence of small seams of shelly

material of exceptional richness has impressed collectors with the idea

that they were dealing with a veritable shell-bed, when the facts would

bear a very different interpretation. A fictitious abundance is brought

about by a process of what may be termed 'concentration,' by the action

of a gently flowing current of water upon materials of different sizes

and different specific gravities. Shells when but recently vacated

consist of materials of rather high specific gravity, penetrated by pores

containing animal matter, so that the density of the whole mass is far

below that of rocks in general, and hence a current too feeble to move

pebbles would yet carry shells. Illustrations of this process may be

observed upon any shore in the concentration of fragments of coal, corks,

or other light material.

"Regarding the interpretation of these facts: The commonly received

idea is, that the beds were laid down in the sea during a period of

submergence, and that the shells lived, not perhaps on the spot, but

somewhere near, and that the terminal curvature of the slate was produced

by the grounding of icebergs which also brought the boulders. But if

this hypothesis were accepted, it would be necessary to invest the

flotation of ice with a constancy of direction entirely at variance with

observed facts, for the phenomena of terminal curvature is shown" with

perfect persistence of direction wherever the boulder-clay rests upon the

rock; and, further, there is the highly significant fact, that neither

the sands and gravels nor the rock upon which they rest show any signs of

disturbance or contortion, such as must have been produced if floating

ice had been an operative agent.

"The uplift of foreign rocks is equally significant; and when we take

into account the great distances from which they have been borne and

the frequency with which such an operation must have been repeated, the

inadequacy becomes apparent of Darwin's ingenious suggestion, that it

might have been effected by a succession of uplifts by shore-ice during

a period of slow subsidence; while the character and abundance of the

molluscan remains invest with a species of irony the application of the

term 'shell-bed' to the deposit.

"I now turn to the alternative explanation (see _ante_, p. 145), viz.,

that the whole of the phenomena were produced by a mass of land-ice which

was forced in upon Moel Tryfaen from the north or northwest, overpowering

any Welsh ice which obstructed its course. This view is in harmony with

the observations regarding the 'terminal curvature' of the slates, the

occurrence of sharp angular chips of slate in the boulder-clay, and the

coincidence of direction of these indications of movement with the carry

of foreign stones. The few shells and shell-crumbs in the sands and

gravels would, upon this hypothesis, be the infinitesimal relics of huge

shell-banks in the Irish Sea which were destroyed by the glacier and in

part incorporated in its ground-moraine or involved in the ice itself.

The sands and gravels would represent the wash which would take place

wherever, by the occurrence of a 'nunatak' or by approach to the edge of

the ice, water could have a free escape.

"Two principal objections have been urged to the land-ice explanation

of the Moel Tryfaen deposits. An able critic asks, 'Can, then, ice walk

up-hill?' To this we answer, Given a sufficient 'head' behind it, and

ice can certainly achieve that feat, as every _roche moutonnée_ proves.

If it be granted that ice on the small scale can move up-hill, there is

no logical halting-place between the uplift of ten or twenty feet to

surmount a _roche moutonnée_, and an equally gradual elevation to the

height of Moel Tryfaen. Furthermore, the inland ice of Greenland is known

to extrude its ground-moraine on the 'weather-side' of the nunataks, and

the same action would account for the material uplifted on Moel Tryfaen.

"The second objection brought forward was couched in somewhat these

terms: 'If the Lake District had its ice-sheet, surely Wales had one

also. Could not Snowdonia protect the heart of its own domain?' Of

course, Wales had its ice-sheet, and the question so pointedly raised

by the objector needs an answer; and though it is merely a question

of how much force is requisite to overcome a certain resistance (both

factors being unknown), still there are features in the case which render

it specially interesting and at the same time comparatively easy of

explanation. It seems rather like stating a paradox, yet the fact is,

that it was the proximity of Snowdon which, in my opinion, enabled the

foreign ice to invade Wales at that point.

"A glance at the map will show that the 'radiant point' of the Welsh ice

was situated on or near Arenig Mawr, and that the great mass of Snowdon

stands quite on the periphery of the mountainous regions of North Wales,

so that it would oppose its bulk to fend off the native ice-sheet and

prevent it from extending seaward in that direction.

[Illustration: Fig. 46.--Section across Wales to show the relationship of

native to foreign ice.]

"As a consequence, the only Welsh ice in position to obstruct the onward

march of the invader would be such trifling valley-glaciers as could form

on the western slopes of Snowdon itself.

"The peak of Snowdon is 3,570 feet above sea-level, and Arenig Mawr,

2,817 feet high, is eighteen miles to the eastward, and a broad, deep

valley with unobstructed access to Cardigan Bay intervenes; so, if any

ice from the central mass made its way over the Snowdonian range, it

performed a much more surprising feat than that involved in the ascent of

Moel Tryfaen from the westward.

"The profile shows in diagrammatic form the probable relations of the

foreign to the native ice at the time when the Moel Tryfaen deposits were

laid down.

"From what has been said regarding the great glaciers, it would seem

that ice advanced upon the land from the seaward in several parts of the

coast of England, Wales, and the Isle of Man. Now, it is in precisely

those parts of the country, and those alone, that the remains of marine

animals occur in the glacial deposits. If the dispersal of the shells

found in the drift had been effected by the means I have suggested, it

would follow, as an inevitable consequence, that wherever shells occur

there should also be boulders which have been brought from beyond the

sea. This I find to be the case, and in two instances the discovery of

shells was preliminary to the extension of the boundaries of the known

distribution of boulders of trans-marine origin.

"The officers of the Geological Survey some years ago observed the

occurrence of 'obscure fragments of marine shells' in a deposit at

Whalley, Lancashire, in which they could find only local rocks. One case

such as this would be fatal to the theory of the _remanié_ origin of the

shells, but on visiting the section with Mr. W. A. Downham, I found,

amongst the very few stones which occurred in the shell-bearing sand at

the spot indicated, two well-marked examples of Cumbrian volcanic rocks,

and, at a little distance, large boulders of Scottish granites.

"The second case is more striking. The announcement was made that shells

had been found on a hill called Gloppa near Oswestry, in Shropshire, and,

as it lay about five miles to the westward of Mackintosh's boundary of

the Irish Sea Glacier, and therefore well within the area of exclusively

Welsh boulders, it furnished an excellent opportunity of putting the

theory to the test. An examination of the boulders associated with the

shells showed that the whole suite of Galloway and Cumbrian erratics

such as belong to the Irish Sea Glacier were present in great abundance.

Not only this, but in the midst of the series of shell-bearing gravels I

observed a thin lenticular bed of greenish clay, which upon examination

was found to be crowded with well-scratched specimens of Welsh rocks; but

neither a morsel of shell nor a single pebble of a foreign rock could be

found, either by a careful examination in the field or by washing the

clay at home, and examining with a lens the sand and stones separated out.

"The fact that predictions such as these have been verified affords a

very striking corroboration of the theory put forward; and, though shells

cannot be found in every deposit in which they might, _ex hypothesi_,

be found, yet the strict limitation of them to situations which conform

to those assigned upon theoretical grounds cannot be ascribed to mere

coincidence. If the land had ever been submerged during any part of

the Glacial epoch to a depth of 1,400 feet, it is inconceivable that

clear and indisputable evidence should not be found in abundance in the

sheltered valleys of the Lake District and Wales, which would have been

deep, quiet fiords, in which vast colonies of marine creatures would have

found harbour, as they do in the deep lochs of Scotland to-day.

"It has been urged, in explanation of this absence of marine remains

in the great hill-centres, that the 'second glaciation' might have

destroyed them; but to do this would require that the ice should make a

clean and complete sweep of all the loose deposits both in the hollows

of the valleys and on the hill-sides, and further that it should destroy

all the shells and all the foreign stones which floated in during the

submergence. At the same time we should have to suppose that the drift

which lay in the paths of the great glaciers was not subjected to any

interference whatever. But, assuming that these difficulties were

explained, there would still remain the fact that the valleys which have

never been glaciated--as, for example, those of Derbyshire--show no

signs whatever of any marine deposits, nor of marine action in any form

whatever.

"The sea leaves other traces also, besides shells, of its presence

in districts that have really been submerged, yet there are no signs

whatever to be found of them in all England, except the _post_-glacial

raised beaches. Furthermore, in all the area occupied by glacial

deposits there are no true sea-beaches, no cliffs nor sea-worn caves,

no barnacle-encrusted rocks, nor rocks bored by Pholas or Saxicava. Are

we to believe that these never existed; or that, having existed, they

have been obliterated by subsequent denudations? To make good the former

proposition, it would be necessary as a preliminary to show that the

movement of subsidence and re-elevation was so rapid, and the interval

between so brief, that no time was allowed for any marine erosion to

take place. If this were so, it would be the most stupendous catastrophe

of which we have any geological record; but we are not left in doubt

regarding the duration of the submerged condition, for the occurrence

of forty feet of gravel upon the summits of the hills indicates plainly

that, if they were accumulated by the sea, the land must have stood at

that level for a very long period, amply sufficient for the formation of

a well-marked coast-line.

"The alternative proposition, that post-glacial denudation had removed

the traces of subsidence, is equally at variance with the evidence.

Post-glacial denudation has left kames and drumlins, and all the other

forms of glacial deposits, in almost perfect integrity; the small

kettle-holes are not yet filled up; and it is therefore quite out of the

question that the far more enduring features, such as sea-cliffs, shore

platforms, and beaches, should have been destroyed.

"The only reasonable conclusion is, that these evidences of marine action

never existed, because the land in glacial times was never depressed

below its present level. If the level were different at all (as I think

may have been the case on the western side of England), it was higher,

and not lower.

"The details of the submergence hypothesis have, so far as I am aware,

never been dealt with by its advocates, otherwise I cannot but think that

it would have been abandoned long since. It has been stated in general

terms that the subsidence was greatest in the north and diminished to

zero in the south, but no attempt was made to trace the evidence of

extreme subsidence across country and along the principal hill-ranges--in

fact, to see how it varied in every direction.

"If we take a traverse of England, say from Flamborough Head upon the

east to Moel Tryfaen on the west, and accept as evidence of submergence

any true glacial deposits (except, as in the case of the interior of

Wales, the deposits are obviously the effects of purely local glaciers

and contain, therefore, no shells), we shall find that the subsidence, if

any, must have been not simply differential but sporadic.

[Illustration: Fig. 47.--Section of the cliff on the east side of South

Sea Landing, Flamborough Head. Scale, 120 feet to 1 inch; length of

section 290 yards; average height, 125 feet. (See above map of moraine

between Speeton and Flamborough.)

Explanation.--_4._ Brownish boulder-clay, a band of pebbles; _4a_,

in places about seven feet from top. _3._ Washed gravel, with thin

sand-seams, well-bedded, pebbles chiefly erratics. _2._ "Basement"

boulder-clay, with many included patches of sand, gravel, and silt; _2a_,

at _B_, one of these _2b_ contain shells. _1b_. Sand and silt, overlying

and in places interbedded with _1_. _1._ Rubble of angular and subangular

chalk-blocks and gravel, with occasional erratic, passes partly into

chalky boulder-clay, _1a_. _x_. White chalk, without flints, surface much

shaken.]

"At Flamborough Head shelly drift attains an altitude of 400 feet,

but half a mile from the coast the country is practically driftless

even at lower levels. The Yorkshire Wolds were not submerged. On the

western flanks of the wolds drift comes in at about 100 to 150 feet, and

persists, probably, under the post-glacial warp, from which it again

protrudes on the western side of the valley of the Ouse, and however the

drift between there and the Pennine water-shed may be interpreted, it

shows not a sign of marine origin; but, even granting that it did, we

find that it does not reach within a thousand feet of the water-shed.

When the water-shed is crossed, however, abundant glacial deposits are

met with which are not to be differentiated from others at slightly lower

levels which contain shells.

[Illustration: Fig. 48.--Enlarged section of the shelly sand and

surrounding clay at _B_ in preceding figure. Scale, 4 feet to 1 inch.

Explanation.--_2._ "Basement" boulder-clay. _2a_. Pure compact blue and

brown clay of aqueous origin, bedding contorted and nearly obliterated,

but the mass is cut up by shearing planes. _2b_. Irregular seam, and

scattered streaks, of greenish-yellow sand with many marine shells. _2c_.

Patch of pale-yellow sand, different from _2b_, without trace of fossils.]

"If we suppose that the line of our traverse crosses the Pennine Chain

at Heald Moor, we shall find that on the eastern side no traces of drift

occur above about 300 feet; while the very summit of the water-shed is

occupied by boulder-clay, and thence downward the trace is practically

continuous, and at about 1,000 feet and downward the drift contains

marine shells. Across the great plain of Lancashire and Cheshire

the 'marine' drift is fully developed--though it may be remarked in

parentheses that it contains a shallow-water fauna, albeit _ex hypothesi_

deposited, in part at least, in a depth of 200 fathoms of water--and to

the Welsh border at Frondeg, where it again reaches a water-shed at an

altitude of 1,450 feet; but at 100 yards to the westward of the summit

all traces of subsidence disappear, and through the centre of Wales no

sign is visible; then we emerge on the western slopes at Moel Tryfaen,

and they assume their fullest dimensions, though only to finish abruptly

on the hill-top, and put in no appearance in the lower grounds which

extend from there to the sea.

"The conclusions pointed to by the evidence (and, as I have endeavoured

to show, all the evidence which existed at the close of the Glacial

period is there still) are, that a subsidence of the Yorkshire Wolds

took place on the east, but not in the centre or west; that the Pennine

Chain was submerged on the western side to a depth of 1,400 feet, and

on the east to not more than 300 feet, even on opposite sides of the

same individual hill; that all the lowlands between, say, Bacup and the

Welsh border, were submerged, and that the hills near Frondeg partook of

this movement, but only on their eastern sides; that the centre of Wales

was exempt, but that the summit of Moel Tryfaen forms an isolated spot

submerged, while the surrounding country escaped. These absurdities might

be indefinitely multiplied, and they must follow unless it be admitted

that the phenomena are the results of glacial ice, and that ice can move

'up-hill.'

"The south of England certainly has partaken of no movement of

subsidence. A line drawn from Bristol to London will leave all the true

glacial deposits to the northward, except a bed of very questionable

boulder-clay at Watchet, and a peculiar deposit of clayey rubble which

has been produced on the flanks of the Cornish hills probably, as the

late S. V. Wood, Jr, suggested, by the slipping of material over a

permanently frozen subsoil.

"For the remainder of the southern area the evidence is plain that there

has been no considerable subsidence during glacial times. The presence

over large areas of chalk country of the 'clay with flints'--a deposit

produced by the gradual solution of the chalk and the accumulation in

situ of its insoluble residue--is absolute demonstration that for immense

periods of time the country has been exempt from any considerable aqueous

action. The enormous accumulations of china clay upon the granite bosses

of Cornwall and Devon tell the same tale. A few erratics have been found

at low levels at various points on the southern coasts, usually not

above the reach of the waves. These consist of rocks which may have been

floated by shore-ice from the Channel Islands or the French coast.

"This imperfect survey of the evidence against the supposed submergence

has been rendered the more difficult by the fact that it is not

considered necessary to produce the evidence of marine shells in all

cases. Indeed, it has been argued that post-Tertiary beds covering

thousands of square miles might be absolutely destitute of shells without

prejudice to the theory of their formation in the sea.

"But such a suggestion, one would think, could hardly come from anyone

familiar with marine Tertiary deposits, or even with the appearance of

modern sea-beaches. Admitting, however, for the purposes of argument,

that the beaches along a great extent of coast might be devoid of shells,

it cannot be argued that the deep waters were destitute of life; and

hence the boulder-clays, if of marine origin, should contain a great

abundance of shells and other remains, and, once entombed, it is beyond

belief that they could all be removed from such a deposit in the short

lapse of post-glacial time.

"Now, some of the boulder-clays--as, for example, those of Lancashire

and Cheshire--are held to be of marine origin, and this is indeed

a vital necessity to the submergence theory; for, if these are not

marine deposits, neither are the other shelly deposits; but these

boulder-clays are absolutely indistinguishable from those lying within

the hill-centres, and, as it passes belief that such deposits could be of

diverse origin and yet possess an identical structure and arrangement,

then we should have a right to demand that these clays should have

enclosed shells and should still contain them, but they do not.

"I may here mention that I am informed by Mr. W. Shone, F. G. S.--and

he was good enough to permit me to quote the statement--that the

boulder-clay of Cheshire and the shelly boulder-clay of Caithness are 'as

like as two peas.' The importance of this comparison lies in the fact

that, since Croll's classical description, all observers have agreed

that it was the product of land-ice which moved in upon the land out of

the Dornoch Firth. It was pointed out then, as since has been done for

England, that it was only where the direction of ice-movement was from

the seaward that any shells occur in the boulder-clay.

"_The Dispersion of Erratics of Shap Granite._--So great a significance

attaches to the peculiar distribution of this remarkable rock, that I

may add a few details here which could not be conveniently introduced

elsewhere.

"This granite occupies an area which lies just to the northward of the

water-shed between the basins of the Lime and the Eden, and its extreme

elevation is 1,656 feet. Boulders occur in large numbers as far to the

northward as Cross Fells, while, as already described, they pass over

Stainmoor and are dispersed in great numbers along the route taken by the

great Stainmoor branch of the Solway Glacier. But a considerable number

of the boulders also found their way to the southward, and a well-marked

trail can be followed down into Morecambe Bay; and at Hest Bank, to the

north of Lancaster, the boulder-clay contains many examples, together

with the 'mica-trap' of the Kendal and Sedbergh dykes and other local

rocks, but no shells or erratics from other sources than the country

draining into Morecambe Bay. To the southward the ice which bore these

rocks was deflected by the great Irish Sea Glacier, and, so far as

present information enables me to state, the Shap granite blocks mark the

course of the medial moraine between these two ice-streams. It has been

found near Garstang, at Longridge, and at Whalley, this being the exact

line of junction of the Irish Sea Glacier with the ice from Morecambe Bay

and the Pennine Chain.

"It is a very remarkable and significant fact, that not a single

authentic occurrence of the rock across the boundary indicated has yet

been recorded."

_Northern Europe._

On passing over the shallow German Sea from England to the Continent,

the southern border of the Scandinavian ice-field is found south of

the Zuyder Zee, between Utrecht and Arnhem--the moraine hills in the

vicinity of Arnhem being quite marked, and a barren, sandy plain dotted

with boulders and irregular moraine hills extending most of the way to

the Zuyder Zee. From Arnhem the southern boundary of the great ice-field

runs "eastward across the Rhine Valley, along the base of the Westphalian

Hills, around the projecting promontory of the Hartz, and then southward

through Saxony to the roots of the Erzgebirge. Passing next southeastward

along the flanks of the Riesen and Sudeten chain, it sweeps across Poland

into Russia, circling round by Kiev, and northward by Nijni-Novgorod

towards the Urals."[BV] Thence the boundary passes northward to the

Arctic Ocean, a little east of the White Sea.

[Footnote BV: A. Geikie's Text-Book of Geology, p. 885.]

The depth of this northern ice-sheet is proved to have been upwards

of 1,400 feet where it met the Hartz Mountains, for it has deposited

northern _débris_ upon them to that height; while, as already shown, it

must have been over 2,000 feet in the main valley of Switzerland. In

Norway it is estimated that the ice was between 6,000 and 7,000 feet

thick.

The amount of work done by the continental glaciers of Europe in the

erosion, transportation, and deposition of rock and earthy material is

immense. According to Helland, the average depth of the glacial deposits

over North Germany and northwestern Russia is 150 German feet, i. e.,

about 135 English feet. As the deposition towards the margin of a glacier

must be commensurate with its erosion near the centre of movement, this

vast amount implies a still greater proportionate waste in the mountains

of Scandinavia, where the area diminishes with every contraction of

the circle. Two hundred and fifty feet is therefore not an extravagant

calculation for the amount of glacial erosion in the Scandinavian

Peninsula.

It is not difficult to see how the Scandinavian mountains were able

to contribute so much soil to the plains of northern Germany and

northwestern Russia. Previous to the Glacial period, a warm climate

extended so far north as to permit the growth of semi-tropical vegetation

in Spitsbergen, Greenland, and the northern shores of British America.

Such a climate, with its abundant moisture and vegetation, afforded most

favourable conditions for the superficial disintegration of the rocks.

When, therefore, the cold of the Glacial period came on, the moving

currents of ice would have a comparatively easy task in stripping the

mantle of soil from the hills of Norway and Sweden, and transporting it

towards the periphery of its movement. Of course, erosion in Scandinavia

meant subglacial deposition beyond the Baltic. Doubtless, therefore, the

plains of northern Germany, with their great depth of soil, are true

glacial deposits, whose inequalities of surface have since been much

obliterated, through the general influences of the lapse of time, and by

the ceaseless activity of man.

An interesting series of moraines in the north of Germany, bordering the

Baltic Sea, was discovered in 1888 by Professor Salisbury, of the United

States Geological Survey. Its course lies through Schleswig-Holstein,

Mecklenburg, Potsdam (about forty miles north of Berlin), thence swinging

more to the north, and following nearly the line between Pomerania and

West Prussia, crossing the Vistula about twenty miles south of Dantzic,

thence easterly to the Spirding See, near the boundary of Poland.

Among the places where this moraine can be best seen are--"1. In Province

Holstein, the region about (especially north of) Eutin; 2. Province

Mecklenburg, north of Crivitz, and between Bütow and Kröpelin; 3.

Province Brandenburg, south of Reckatel, between Strassen and Bärenbusch,

south of Fürstenberg and north of Everswalde, and between Pyritz and

Solden; 4. Province Posen, east of Locknitz, and at numerous points to

the south, and especially about Falkenburg, and between Lompelburg and

Bärwalde. This is one of the best localities. 5. Province West Preussen,

east of Bütow; 6. Province Ost Preussen, between Horn and Widikin."

Comparing these with the moraines of America, Professor Salisbury remarks:

"In its composition from several members, in its variety of development,

in its topographic relations, in its topography, in its constitution, in

its associated deposits, and in its wide separation from the outermost

drift limit, this morainic belt corresponds to the extensive morainic

belt of America, which extends from Dakota to the Atlantic Ocean. That

the one formation corresponds to the other does not admit of doubt. In

all essential characteristics they are identical in character. What may

be their relations in time remains to be determined."

[Illustration: Fig. 49.--Map showing the glaciated area of Europe

according to J. Geikie, and the moraines in Britain and Germany according

to Lewis and Salisbury.]

The physical geography of Europe is so different from that of America,

that there was a marked difference in the secondary or incidental effects

of the Glacial period upon the two regions. In America the continental

area over which the glaciers spread is comparatively simple in its

outlines. East of the Rocky Mountains, as we have seen, the drainage

of the Glacial period was, for a time, nearly all concentrated in the

Mississippi basin, and the streams had a free course southward.

But in Europe there was no free drainage to the south, except over

a small portion of the glaciated area in central Russia, about the

head-waters of the Dnieper, the Don, and the Volga; though the Danube

and the Rhône afforded free course for the waters of a portion of the

great Alpine glaciers. But all the great rivers of northern Europe

flow to the northward, and, with the exception of the Seine, they all

for a time encountered the front of the continental ice-sheet. This

circumstance makes it difficult to distinguish closely between the direct

glacial deposits in Europe and those which are more or less modified

by water-action. At first sight it would seem also somewhat hazardous

to attempt to correlate with any portion of the Glacial period the

deposition of the gravelly and loamy deposits in valleys, which, like

those of the Seine and Somme, lie entirely outside of the glaciated area.

Upon close examination, however, the elements of doubt more and more

disappear. The Glacial period was one of great precipitation, and it

is natural to suppose that the area of excessive snow-fall extended

considerably beyond the limit of the ice-front. During that period

therefore, the rivers of central France must have been annually flooded

to an extent far beyond anything which is known at the present time.

Since these rivers flowed to the northward, at a period when, during

the long and severe winters, the annual accumulation of ice near their

mouths was excessive, ice-gorges of immense extent, such as now form

about the mouths of the Siberian rivers, would regularly occur. We are

not surprised, therefore, to find, even in these streams, abundant

indications of the indirect influence of the great northern ice-sheet.

The indications referred to consist of high-level gravel terraces

occasionally containing boulders, of from four to five tons weight, which

have been transported for a considerable distance. The elevation of the

terraces above the present flood-plains of the Seine and Somme reaches

from 100 to 150 feet. We are not to suppose, however, that even in

glacial times the floods of the river Seine could have filled its present

valley to that height. The highest flood in this river known in historic

times rose only to a height of twenty-nine feet. Mr. Prestwich estimates

that, without taking into consideration the more rapid discharge, a flood

of sixty times this magnitude would be required to fill the present

valley to the level of the ancient gravels, while at Amiens the shape of

the valley of the Somme is such that five hundred times the mean average

of the stream would be required to reach the high-level gravels. The

conclusion, therefore, is that the troughs of these streams have been

largely formed by erosion since the deposition of the high-level gravels.

Connected with these terrace gravels in northern France is a loamy

deposit, corresponding to the loess in other parts of Europe, and to a

similar deposit to which we have referred in describing the southwestern

part of the glaciated area in North America. In northern France this fine

silt overlies the high-level gravel deposits, and, as Mr. Prestwich has

pretty clearly shown, was deposited contemporaneously with them during

the early inundations and before the stream had eroded its channel to its

present level.

The distribution of loess in Europe was doubtless connected with the

peculiar glacial conditions of the continent. Its typical development

is in the valley of the Rhine, where it is described by Professor

James Geikie "as a yellow or pale greyish-brown, fine-grained, and

more or less homogeneous, consistent, non-plastic loam, consisting of

an intimate admixture of clay and carbonate of lime. It is frequently

minutely perforated by long, vertical, root-like tubes which are lined

with carbonate of lime--a structure which imparts to the loess a strong

tendency to cleave or divide in vertical planes. Thus it usually presents

upright bluffs or cliffs upon the margins of streams and rivers which

intersect it. Very often it contains concretions or nodules of irregular

form.... Land-shells and the remains of land animals are the most common

fossils of the loess, but occasionally fresh-water shells and the bones

of fresh-water fish occur."

"From the margins of the modern alluvial flats which form the bottoms

of the valleys it rises to a height of 200 or 300 feet above the

streams--sweeping up the slopes of the valleys, and imparting a rich

productiveness to many districts which would otherwise be comparatively

unfruitful. From the Rhienthal itself it extends into all the tributary

valleys--those of the Neckar, the Main, the Lahn, the Moselle, and the

Meuse, being more or less abundantly charged with it. It spreads, in

short, like a great winding-sheet over the country--lying thickly in the

valleys and dying off upon the higher slopes and plateaux. Wide and deep

accumulations appear likewise in the Rhône Valley, as also in several

other river-valleys of France, as in those of the Seine, the Saône, and

the Garonne, and the same is the case with many of the valleys of middle

Germany, such as those of the Fulda, the Werra, the Weser, and the upper

reaches of the great basin of the Elbe. It must not be supposed that the

loess is restricted to valleys and depressions in the surface of the

ground.

"It is true that it attains in these its greatest thickness, but

extensive accumulations may often be followed far into the intermediate

hilly districts and over the neighbouring plateaux. Thus the Odenwald,

the Taunus, the Vogelgebirge, and other upland tracts, are cloaked with

loess up to a considerable height. Crossing into the drainage system of

the Danube, we find that this large river and many of its tributaries

flow through vast tracts of loess. Lower Bavaria is thickly coated with

it, and it attains a great development in Bohemia, Upper and Lower

Austria, and Moravia--in the latter country rising to an elevation of

1,300 feet. It is equally abundant in Hungary, Galicia, Bukowina, and

Transylvania. From the Danubian flat lands and the low grounds of Galicia

it stretches into the valleys of the Carpathians, up to heights of 800

and 2,000 feet. In some cases it goes even higher--namely, to 3,000

feet, according to Zeuschner, and to 4,000 or 5,000 feet, according to

Korzistka. These last great elevations, it will be understood, are in

the upper valleys of the northern Carpathians. In Roumania loess is

likewise plentiful, but it has not been observed south of the Balkans.

East of the Carpathians--that is to say, in the regions watered by the

Dniester, the Dnieper, and the Don--loess appears also to be wanting,

and to be represented by those great steppe-deposits which are known as

_Tchernozen_, or black earth."[BW]

[Footnote BW: Prehistoric Europe, pp. 144-146.]

The shells found in the loess indicate both a colder and a wetter climate

during its deposition than that which now exists. The relics of land

animals are infrequently found in the deposit, yet they do occur, but

mostly in fragmentary condition--the principal animals represented being

the mammoth, the rhinoceros, the reindeer, and the horse; which is about

the same variety as is found in the gravel deposits of the Glacial

period, both in western Europe and in America.

A species of loess--differing, however, somewhat in color from that on

the Rhine--covers the plains of northeastern France up to an elevation of

700 feet above the the sea, where, as we have already said, it overlies

the high-level gravels of the Seine and the Somme. Above this height

the superficial soil in France is evidently merely the decomposed upper

surface of the native rock.

The probable explanation of all these deposits, included under the term

"loess," is the same as that already given by Prestwich of the loamy

deposits of northern France. But in case of rivers, which, like the

Rhine, encountered the ice-front in their northward flow, a flooded

condition favouring the accumulation of loess was doubtless promoted by

the continental ice-barrier. In the case of the Danube and the Rhône,

however, where there was a free outlet away from the glaciated region,

the loess in the upper part of the valleys must have accumulated in

connection with glacial floods quite similar to those which we have

described as spreading over the imperfectly formed water-courses of the

Mississippi basin during the close of the Ice age. That the typical loess

is of glacial origin is pretty certainly shown, both by its distribution

in front of glaciers and by its evident mechanical origin when studied

under the microscope. It is, in short, the fine sediment which gives the

milky whiteness to glacial rivers.

In central Russia there is a considerable area in which the glacial

conditions were, in one respect, similar to those in the northern part

of the Mississippi Valley in the United States. In both regions the

continental ice-sheet surmounted the river partings, and spread over the

upper portion of an extensive plain whose drainage was to the south. The

Dnieper, the Don, and the western branch of the Volga, like the Ohio

and the Mississippi, have their head-waters in the glaciated region. In

some other respects, also, there is a resemblance between the plains

bordering the glaciated region in central Russia and those which in

America border it in the Mississippi Valley. Mr. James Geikie is of the

opinion that the extensive belt of black earth adjoining the glaciated

area in Russia, and constituting the most productive agricultural portion

of the country, derives its fertility, as does much of the Mississippi

Valley, from the blanket of glacial silt spread pretty evenly over it.

Thus it would appear that in Europe, as in America, the ice of the

Glacial period was a most beneficent agent, preparing the face of the

earth for the permanent occupation of man. On both continents the seat

of empire is in the area once occupied by the advance of the great

ice-movements of that desolate epoch.

_Asia._

East of the Urals, in northern Asia, there is no evidence of moving ice

upon the land during the Glacial period; but at Yakutsk, in latitude 62°

north, the soil is frozen at the present time to an unknown depth, and

many of the Siberian rivers, as they approach and empty into the Arctic

Sea, flow between cliffs of perpetual ice or frozen ground. The changes

that came over this region during the Glacial period are impressively

indicated by the animal remains which have been preserved in these

motionless icy cliffs. In the early part of the period herds of mammoth

and woolly rhinoceros roamed over the plains of Siberia, and waged an

unequal warfare with the slowly converging and destructive forces. The

heads and tusks of these animals were so abundant in Siberia that they

long supplied all Russia with ivory, besides contributing no small

amount for export to other countries. "In 1872 and 1873 as many as 2,770

mammoth-tusks, weighing from 140 to 160 pounds each, were entered at the

London clocks."[BX] So perfectly have the carcasses of these extinct

animals been preserved in the frozen soil of northern Siberia that when,

after the lapse of thousands of years, floods have washed them out from

the frozen cliffs, dogs and wolves and bears have fed upon their flesh

with avidity. In some instances even "portions of the food of these

animals were found in the cavities of the teeth. Microscopic examination

showed that they fed upon the leaves and shoots of the coniferous trees

which then clothed the plains of Siberia." A skeleton and parts of

the skin, and some of the softer portions of the body of a mammoth,

discovered in 1799 in the frozen cliff near the mouth of the Lena, was

carried to St. Petersburg in 1806, from which it was ascertained that

this huge animal was "covered with alight-coloured, curly, very thick-set

hair one to two inches in length, interspersed with darker-colored hair

and bristles from four to eighteen inches long."[BY]

[Footnote BX: Prestwich's Geology, vol. ii, p. 460.]

[Footnote BY: Prestwich's Geology, vol. ii, p. 460.]

In the valleys of Sikkim and eastern Nepaul, in northern India, glaciers

formerly extended 6,000 feet lower than now, or to about the 5,000-foot

level, and in the western Himalayas to a still lower level. The higher

ranges of mountains in other portions of Asia also show many signs of

former glaciation. This is specially true of the Caucasus, where the

ancient glaciers were of vast extent. According, also, to Sir Joseph

Hooker, the cedars of Lebanon flourish upon an ancient moraine. Of the

glacial phenomena in other portions of Asia little is known.

_Africa._

Northern and even central Africa must likewise come in for their share

of attention. The Atlas Mountains, rising to a height of 13,000 feet,

though supporting none at the present time, formerly sustained glaciers

of considerable size. Moraines are found in several places as low as the

4,000-foot level, and one at an altitude of 4,000 feet is from 800 to 900

feet high, and completely crosses and dams up the ravine down which the

glacier formerly came.

Some have supposed that there are indubitable evidences of former

glaciation in the mountain-ranges of southwestern Africa between latitude

30° and 33°, but the evidence is not as unequivocal as we could wish, and

we will not pause upon it.

The mountains of _Australia_, also, some of which rise to a height of

more than 7,000 feet, are supposed to have been once covered with glacial

ice down to the level of 5,800 feet, but the evidence is at present too

scanty to build upon. But in _New Zealand_ the glaciers now clustering

about the peaks in the middle of the South Island, culminating in Mount

Cook, are but diminutive representatives of their predecessors. This is

indicated by extensive moraines in the lower part of the valleys and by

the existence of numerous lakes, attributable, like so many in Europe and

North America, to the irregular deposition of morainic material by the

ancient ice-sheet.[BZ]

[Footnote BZ: See With Axe and Rope in the New Zealand Alps, by G. E.

Mannering, 1891.]

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